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Speak muchs😮
this is a mercedes thing. he cut them off because of the weird mercedes mounts.. you cant unscrew them if they break lose. it's a dumb design.
Fantastic video much appreciated
such a bullshit with the emissions....
the reason why you werent able to bring the knuckle down far enough was because of the outer tie rod. Unbolt the outer tie rod with a 21mm socket and then unscrew the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod(remember to count the threads for alignment purposes). when you have the outer tie rod removed, the whole strut assembly with the knuckle will be able to lean over outside of the fender and then you can take it off. Idk if i explained that well but i just struggled for 2 hours on one side and once i found out the tie rod was in the way, the other side literally took fifteen minutes. Hope this helps.
Did this help with the soot?
It cut down on the amount a little. But honestly, a proper tune is the best way to stop this.
anyone knows the part number or specifications for the trim ring?
Too bad these cars have rubber turbo oil lines which will fail eventually. My VW TDI diesel (ALH) has almost 400k miles on it and the solid steel turbo oil line never leaked.
great video. Thank you. Is there no orientation concerns on the intake sprocket to worry about when removing or replacing that? I have an N18 which has VANOS on both cams, so was just curious.
The engine is locked in time with the crankshaft pin and camshaft hold down tools. Cam gears can be anywhere when assembling and torquing down.
Good video. We found it to be very helpful. Unfortunately, you did Not show how to install the exhaust blank for the EGR Cooler in your video. I saw that someome else asked about it in the comments, but I can't see your reaponse. I cannot see where the blank goes in while trying to install it and I can only reach it with socket extentions, but so far I have not been successful in getting a bolt in.
Is this the same for the R60 N18?
Should be generally the same process. N18 has variable valve lift, so things will look different under the valve cover. Timing tools will be different as well.
Great Job, simple explanation, no needless talk, this is how all instruction videos should be.
With the tensioner bolt head being loosened, does it matter if I leave the ratchet on or off? How loose should I go to take the belt off? How tight did you tighten the bolt head?
The bolt head used on the tensioner to remove the belt is not getting tightened or loosened. It is just a cast piece on the tensioner to be able to place a socket onto to move the tensioner. It only needs to be moved far enough to remove tension from the belt. Once the belt is off the tensioner, you can slowly let off of the tension and allow the belt tensioner to return to the end of its travel.
I have a gen 3 f56 and they seem to be glued in
Only way I've found to make this easier is to pull the motor mount pins, remove the radiator and move the motor Forward so it's far enough away from the firewall. You're welcome 🤗
It's so easy, omg thanks. 🙂
the instructions are so clear, no BSing around. great video. I'll subscribe
Hi. I have (or maybe had, now) a 2018 MB GLS 450 4MATIC, with about 100,000 on the OD. The car suddenly seemed to go from one problem to another. First, after taking it in for basic maintenance, with the check engine light on, the mechanic pulled up code indicating wonky thermostat. Okay, we got that replaced - but the check engine light remained on. The mechanic pulled up code(s) indicating camshaft assembly issues. I drove car home and returned to dealership a few days later, 4 April, 2024, for inspection prep-work. After some tear-down of the car, 2 weeks later, extended warranty company approved claim. Finally underway with that job, upon completion, the check engine light remained on. Again, the mechanic pulled up another code which initially indicated an original sensor issue but that code somehow changed and became one that addressed random misfiring. Along the way, service department manager wanted my approval for further tear-down including dropping the engine out before an inspector would come again to verify on behalf of the extended warranty company. This time I said “no”, aware of certain exclusionary clauses in the service contract - one of them being carbon buildup, hardly uncommon. My car has been in the shop since 4 April. I have decided to get a replacement vehicle and cash out my extended warranty policy. Any thoughts on any of this?
Other videos were telling that i need to remove the wheel and thats why i never change them till i saw your video. After i wathed this one i immidiatly ordered some and they work and looks great now! Thanks
So you don't recheck the new plug's gaps before installing them?
I just check visually to make sure they were all close and that one wasn't dropped and had the gap changed.
Very well made video, Concise and clear both in explanation and visual. However, swapping that black cube trim/brushed aluminum for that jackson pollock looking thing hurt LMAO.
I was trying to go for something different. I have owned every kind of interior trim available on these cars throughout the years. The trim I removed was vinyl wrapped a brushed aluminum. It had previously been wrapped with dry carbon. Was just looking for something new and interesting.
Dowland free link 🙏
Thanks for adding picture it just helped me out
Thanks for the video, very informative. I have a R56 2013, with 94k miles. I am planing to drive it from he east coast to the west coast, I would like to do some preventive maintenance so the car does not break down in the long trip.
Where do you buy this egr delete I just bought my first 335D
a lot of fucking talking ...for no reason! :(
😂
I just wanted to say that your video was really helpful when I was troubleshooting some issues with my facelift E46 front bumper. It turns out there was nothing holding the bumper to the metal crash bar behind on mine, but thanks to your video I know I need to replace some captive bolts and nuts. Cheers!!
Thanks for your video doing the same lights
After replacing with new battery does battery needs Programing ?
Ummm your almost correct :-) its a standard EP6 engine, engine should be timed 90' before TDC on number 1 when all 4 pistons are at the same height then you put in your crank pin, serial numbers on cam shafts pointing up, did you replace the cam sprocket and crank bolts? all single use torque to yield, other than that great job!
Hey appreciate the video. Did one at work today, really similar to N20. I had. A lot of trouble finding procedures on Alldata and had to bounce around to a bunch of different sections to get the full process. I just said eff it and watched your video instead.
Hey, cool setup! Do you have a link to that metal piece that gets glued onto the throttle body?
www.atmspeedshop.com/collections/bmw/products/asv-kit
You ain’t show how to put it on u get no likes
Thank you!
Nice Work
So you don't have to jack up the truck in order to remove the starter you don't have to dislocate the motor
wheels reference plz ?
Wheels are from a sport package e90. I believe 2010-11.
Was not expecting to see the overflow lot for my dealership at the end
Great job!
Thank you for your video!
Jo, jow about the ver back on the rear window, how do the trim pilliar comes off?
Whats the oem plug for it?
Love the positivity! Great upload bro! Going to do air filters pcv valves and now plugs... Thanks for the help! ✌️
I bought one through auction today. At idle or very low rpm it stays normal Temperature. When I accelerate it’s starts to over heat and when I let off the gas it starts to cool back down. Was thinking about the shaft spinning inside of the propellor. Does it seem to u like thermostat or water pump?
Sounds like a water pump issue. Shadt spinning in the pump seems like a logical thought.
Thank you so much for sharing ❤️ 💕
Didn't know you had to drain the coolant before doing this, now there is a bucket of it under my car
Torque should be 10Nm not 12Nm - 12m30sec
How would you know it’s it’s the alternator or battery ?
Battery is charged by the alternator during normal driving. If the battery is going dead after a few days, even tho you are driving it regularly, it would most likely have a failing alternator. This usually will cause a battery light to come on while driving. However, if it has a large battery draw and you have a short commute, it would not be enough time for the alternator to restore what is being used while it is sitting.
Seems to me if you're going to the trouble of removing the intake manifold, working one cylinder at a time and covering the others, make sure the cylinder is at TDC so the valves are closed, then use the side of a dental pick hook to scrape the carbon off everywhere inside the ports the best you can, blow out with compressed air, maybe try using that cleaner a bit with the dental pick...but ultimately your best bet without a doubt is to walnut blast the ports and vacuum / blow out all the blast media. You're already there, might as well do it right. The biggest takeaway I get from this is don't expect some miracle in a can. Thanks.
What model year does this part support?