Top tips for Games Workshop and Warhammer terrain, the miniature painting hobby and your budget!
Build terrain for Warhammer 40k, D&D, RPGs and more. From Necromunda to Age of Sigmar. Zombicide to Stargrave!
A no-nonsense, honest channel for people who want achievable, fast, cost effective wargaming terrain and miniature painting hobby solutions. Easy fixes for annoying problems.
You want to enhance existing Warhammer terrain, mod Games Workshop terrain to make it work better, learn how to scratch build terrain and make them work with MDF, card, foam or 3D printed parts. All designed to give you a better tabletop experience.
*New videos released every 15 days or so. Sickness, apathy or complexity dependant. 😜
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Omg buttered by Wolverine! And tailored wetsuit. Brilliant! Great vid yet again. Thanks Will!
A pleasure to have you as always Brenden!
Sanding after assembly!? Heathens!!
🤣🤣🤣
1:04 can I sub airbrush flow improver with some retarder I already have?
Retarder extends drying time whereas flow improver changes the fluidity of the paint. So sadly no. You can however use a drop of dish soap which is also a flow improver. Mix it with a bit of water and add it. Stir slowly so you don’t make bubbles. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 Thanks for the response! Much appreciated. Ill give it a go!
Wo.... Wow... Mind = Blown...
Yeah, sorry about that. KZread doesn’t allow the facilitation of blowing other parts of the body. 🤣🤣
Ok, not mentioned here, but DO NOT AIRBRUSH Cadmium Yellow. It's a heavy metal and very very harmful. Also avoid skin contact and any consumption. Big PSA Otherwise. This video is great! If you're airbrushing, I'd use Yellow Medium Azo
It’s not mentioned because Liquitex cadmium yellow isn’t made with cadmium. It’s a recreation of the hue but not actual cadmium. 👍🏼 because you’re absolutely correct. True cadmium is super poisonous. Most artist colours thesedays have replaced it with safe alternatives. As well as a whole host of other chemicals on other colours. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 didn't know this!!! Ty
You might still find it in some oils so be careful there. Always best to check a paints website to see if they wanna kill you or help you paint! 🤣👍🏼
I’m commander Shepherd, and this is my favorite KZread channel on the citadel.
I don’t think that’ll ever get old!! 🤣🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 I love your channel. I don’t have extra cash for Patreon, but I know comments are mildly helpful for the algorithm. So a vote of confidence from commander shepherd, is the best I can do to help your channel grow.
And it’s totally appreciated mate!
Another great vid. Thanks. I paint like this. Sub assembly and blu tack for lighting volumes.
Excellent! I’m glad I’m not the only one.
I came home from work one day, and my youngest asked if I would paint his Tyrannid Trygon he and his brother had assembled. Big bug, lots of really pointy spikes on the six arms. I must have stabbed myself half a dozen times on that thing, sometimes hard enough to draw blood. Definitely a candidate for painting sub-assemblies!
50% of models thesedays have so much extra baggage on them that they need sub assemblies. 😭 but then my bank account probably needs sub assembly too to balance the mini purchases.
Push fit kits are a pain, they appear to be a decent idea of glue free (or nearly free) assembly, hindered by tolerances that are too tight. I think I got it from Marco Frisoni, but picked up a useful tip for push fit kits. The worst case is the glue setting as you push it together, because there's too much friction. Then you're left with huge horrible gaps where it doesn't meet. Reduce the friction by either sanding one side of the "male" post, or what has worked better for me. If the socket is accessible, like when it's on the inside of a torso piece. Take your snips, and at a 45 degree angle, slip off about 1/3 of the socket. With a dab of Tamiya cement in the socket, it will hold tight, but slide together in a tight fit much easier. If you can't snip the socket. Another option you can have with round sockets. Just take your hobby drill and oversize them ever so slightly. Just enough that they will dry fit, and come lose with a little pull. Again, a dab of cement in the socket will hold tight once you want a permanent assembly. I think one of the reasons I have been drifting towards 3d printed models, apart from the fact that so many are amazeballs, is the much reduced or non existent sub assembly. Thank you once again.
Yes I tend to agree. I just snip off most of the peg now and glue if I don’t want any sub assembly.
Great video again. I like how you simplify the hobby, especially for beginners. Sprues these days sure are more crowed in parts then way back in 2nd and 3rd edition of 40K. Oh and bad clippers can send that small part flying into the black hole underneath the desk where all parts disappear somewhere with the socks from the washing machine/dryer... O_o
Totally, I literally just had to build a Kroot variation I hadn’t planned because one tiny part skipped off the desk and promptly disappeared!
00:56 I've been wondering this for many, many years. A big ol box of 40k civilians and fantasy villagers/burghers would have been wonderful for so many things. And it's not like they've never had random civs/villagers in their catalogues before, but that was also in the misty before-times when they still were distributing DnD for Europe and the U.K.
I guess now GW charge per perceived point value on models. So civvies wouldn’t have any, hence they just don’t bother. If if don’t make money….GW scraps it.
Captain Contrarian, to the rescue! I used to live on Padre Island in Texas. A fool who does not wash the underside of their car, soon has no car with which to neglect washing the corrosive salt off of. My contrarian work is done here. No need to thank me, ma'am. Proving you wrong is all the thanks I need! {*flys away like a fuckin' mega chad*} Joking aside, here is a tip for mold line remove on convoluted surfaces that proves works well and is a huge time saver (which also works pretty good for smooth surfaces, but I prefer scrapping for that). That Tamiya Super thin is more than just a glue, as it is a solvent. You can scrape the surface a bit, just to gets the largest mold lines off. Then take the tamiya super thin brush with a bit of the solvent and run the side of that brush up and down the surface where that mold line is. Whatever is left of the mold line will be softened enough to obscure the fact a mold line was there to begin with. This one is a bit of art though, and requires be able to modify this technique to match the surface you are removing mold lines from. Highly recommend using a couple crappy models to practice with the get used to it. And this only works on styrene models, naturally, because tamiya super thin is styrene solvent.
No salt round here thank god! Well, unless on fish and chips! 🤣 Yes on Tamiya, I tend to actually use the brush and solvent to “paint/sculpt” the seams and mold lines. But that may have been a little too far gone for the video. 😜👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 Haha. Too far gone? Dude, you're already most of the way there in a video about being hyper detailed about prepping dollies to paint. ;)
Very good point!
Mountain of opportunity. Cutting away from yourself is advice for children, as any woodcutter will tell you.
Yes totally!
Oh, here is the funny English guy again! If I ever get back to minis, I'll have to rewatch it again
Honestly, the frustration in minis sometimes isn’t worth it. You’d be better off collecting fine whiskey. At least that way you can drown any annoyances. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 whiskey is for the cool people, not the nerds tho
Put ice in it. That’ll make it less cool and more nerd friendly. 😇
Depending on the plastic and the connection point, nippers can pull on the joint and create a crater even with the greatest care. In this case I reverse the nippers, cutting away from the edge of the part. This way the pulling force is applied to the sprue tree and not the part. There will be a greater nub but no crater.
I’ve now discovered it only happens with double bladed clippers. I can’t replicate it with single blade ones. Go figure! 🤷🏼♂️
Blue tac is king. Belisarius Cawl was nightmarish enough without micro digitalis gymnastic contortionism. Superb video my friend!
Oh man you painted Cawl! Assembled? Kudos my friend!!
Why would i use this instead of a wet pallet? To help my bad dry out faster?
You wouldn’t. These are for speedpaints, contrasts, washes and metallics which dilute and become unusable quickly in wet pallettes. Normal acrylic should go in a wet pallette. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 I see. I don't have speed paint but I'll try keeping my washes off the wet pallet
If you’re quick with the wash it won’t matter. But if it’s in there for 5-10 minutes it starts to dilute with the water and works less well and coffee stains more.
What is the difference between these and wire snips? I have some miniature wire snips which look very similar to the clippers you have shown!
Quality mostly .Wire snips only need to cut soft wire. The blades on those will be blunt in a week on hard plastic minis.
Absolutely love this channel
Thank you indeed!
You have some of the best videos in this genre. Keep on my brother!
Ah, I f only another 80,000 people thought that. I’d get one of those shiny a KZread wall plaques. 🤣
What's your most recommended clippers?
Right now? The DSPIAE clippers. I wish I’d had them years ago but they didn’t exist
Can you recommend the little flexible sanding stocks you use? I tried buying some from Amazon and they were way too coarse, leaving scratches on plastic instead of sanding (tested on a sprue)
You need 1000 grit or higher. I use 1200/1500 stuff and fingernail files to smooth everything. My previous video covers this. 👍🏼
Yes!! Cutting away can be very dangerous. I cut my pinky to the bone doing that. It slipped and cut my pinky on the hand holding it. Cutting away is no good if you are holding something tiny.
I know right. But so many people just parrot the same terrible advice. It’s like no one ever thought, “hey wait a minute - that doesn’t work!”. 🤣
Can someone recommend a replacement for the original orange putty from Elmer's? That stuff works great be doesn't seem to be made anymore.
Can’t help I’m afraid. Does look like that stuff Redgrass games sell for their handles though…
@@thestateofplay2023 I have some of the blue tack. Stuff is does the job but if you ever find the Elmer's Orange steal it. Five years later mine is as plyable as day one. Wonder if the blue stuff just needs more oil.
I actually use the white stuff as it’s a little harder than the blue.
@@thestateofplay2023 some of them just do not like to peel off when finished doing it's job. Wonder if silly putty would work for subassembly.
Not sure if silly putty is strong enough. Run a hair dryer over the harder tack.
This came at the right time! I’m just starting to assemble a large amount of halberdiers for an empire army and the first unit has so many arms crossed over bodies. I will eagerly be trying the bluetack method!
Blu Tack, our hobby hero!!
Maybe somene can use that: 00:00 - Beginning 00:21 - Intro 01:06 - Part Removal 02:26 - Clippers 05:47 - Clean Up 07:50 - Assembly 09:53 - Subassembly 13:54 - Summary 14:36 - Website - tips, tricks, hobby product recommendations or mini paintintg books And later on info about Patreon ;)
Are you saying you want the chapters back? 😭 oh man, I’m trying to reduce the workload. And honestly chapters made no difference to any KZread stats at all. Just added an extra hour of checking timestamps before go live. 🤣🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 I saved you time 😂 you can just copy-paste Coz any way I’m watching… and maybe it’s only me who cares about chapters 😂 but here I’m at your service
If you run out of blu-tak, some well chewed bubble gum may work as a substitute. At least until it dries. Especially good if you store models on the bottom side of a desk or bus seat.
🤣🤣🤣 yeah but when hard it’ll worse to remove than actual glue!! You’ve seen those guys in the street scraping gum of the pavement, right?
@@thestateofplay2023 Indeed! I should have also pointed out that method is illegal in Singapore, so be careful out there.
🤣🤣🤣
Hell yeah! One more great video to watch! It's a pity that I have to wait until tomorrow to watch it...
oh who am I kidding... watched it today
Trip to bathroom with phone screen? No, wait that came out wrong. Not like that. Nevermind….
@@thestateofplay2023 haha 🤣 not even close Was busy, but I’m a grown man, I can afford to watch videos on KZread whenever I want 😂😂😂 (oh well, it was not a bathroom, but a kitchen and dinner ;) )
Another great educational video. Looking forward to a breakdown of priming as well.
On it. Might have to do a 3D printing video before though as I promised elegoo.
Most underrated channel in the hobby! Always something to learn, even if it's just the small things that make you go "Why didn't I come up with it myself? So simple..." like the poster tack in this video.
Thanks Sebastian. Yes I’m always looking for ways to simplify this hobby by challenging all the stuff we’re just expected to believe. And I love Blu tack!
@@thestateofplay2023 Blu tack can be used for masking as well. I bought a fancy maskig putty from GSW in the past but it feels exactly like magic putty. It works though and does not leave residue - I have not tested magic putty though
I actually have a blu tack vid on my list somewhere as it has sooooo many other uses. Try rolling it and squishing it up your sand paper. It cleans it to almost new.
@@thestateofplay2023 whatt. Like really? :O I'll give this a go later :O I used it to make strange sanding sticks. If I have leftover greenstuff / milliputy I make strange shapes on leftover chopstics. I use them for sculpting or adding small pieces of sand paper via blu tack and sand in stupid places :D
This has got to be one of my favourite channels. The information in this vid might seem like basic stuff but what I would have given to have known this when I started. It's not just that, there were definitely things I never thought of trying and am definitely going to from now on.
7:25 mould lines in tricky places can also be dissolved by using plastic cement. You need to be careful not to destroy details, and it will never be perfect, but It can be better than just leaving it as is
That’s what I usually do but just sometimes I honestly can’t be bothered. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 yeah, it depends on how visible it will be. Usually I really have to fight the urge to clean every last bit for absolutely no reason, so slapping a bit of cement on the line can help me to move on :p
🤣🤣 I’m kinda like that. Gets really annoying though when you clean to perfection only to realise the part you just cleaned is completely hidden anyway. 😳
I'm with you on despising the assembly of models. Most of my mini painting has been for board games where the sculpts aren't always the best but there's no assembly required and I can just enjoy painting them up and bringing life to the game. But I recently started buying models for a skirmish wargame (Moonstone). They're beautiful but the resin can be stubbornly resistant to glue and some of the bits are extremely fragile. It's added a lot of stress and frustration to something that I do in order to relax and I'm seriously considering dropping it altogether and just focusing on board games again.
My tip. Bounce between the two like I do. When frustrated by one, swap to other. Then back and forth. Keeps you sane!
I spray primer / base coat while models are still on the sprue … so much easier to hold and gets the nooks & crannies… then zenithal once glued
But don’t you end up coating the glue joins and having to clean up after?
@@thestateofplay2023 never really been a prob, though I use super glue rather than cement … mild scrape if at all needed to expose plastic 👍
I use nail scissors ever since and there is no reason to change that!
If it works. It works!!
After building Gundam models for the past year or so, i feel a bit spoiled from how they engineer the sprue's vs GW's. Granted i own 4 2k armies (120gaunt horde, DG, BloodAngels, Necrons) so ive seen my share of GW plastic.
I’m not sure GW ‘engineer’ the sprues. I’m leaning more towards them throwing parts in the air and where they land becomes the sprue. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 haha, so true on some.
If you live with salty roads, you should wash under your car
I live on rainy roads half the year and dry roads the rest. I can’t remember the last time I saw snow. Sadly.
"Try" not to use the tip of your snips. They work better longer. I'm pretty sure that new kits are made to destroy snips.😅
Weirdly a new kroot trail finder I just got seems to have to softest plastic and ve ever seen. I can remove mold line with my finger nail. 🤷🏼♂️
Blu tack, or "kludd" as we call it in Sweden for some reason, is great for holding stuff together before priming. But superglue is even greater, especially for the weapon arms and heads. Just stick one part of the arm to the model with a tiny bit of glue and then snap it off when you wanna paint it and you still have a big connection for plastic cement on the other arm, and can easily get the other one back with a tiny scrape if you dont want more superglue there. Works much better in my experience since the blu tack tends to harden and leave ugly marks from the primer or sometimes lump up and become next to impossible to remove.
Awesome name for blue tak! There shouldn’t be any blu tack mark on the primer though as you hide it in the joins. And removing it is easier with some other blu tack as long as the new stuff is warm. Sadly I’m allergic to superglue….🥲
@@thestateofplay2023 I think it might be my autistic urge make sure the piece is 100% stuck to the kludd that makes me use too much and that then causes my issues. Been trying to use less but the brain does not accept that 😂 Though more hidden joins, like backpacks, I use blu tack for since nothing gets there anyway. Think I'll give those tiny lumps you used a go next time :)
Try with multiple teeny tiny bits.
I'd love to see you assemble, paint and do weathering on a Gundam model using these techniques. I get that may not be your cup of tea though.
I’ve never tried gundam to be honest. I’ve always been more partially to sci di and fantasy monsters rather than big robots. Same reason I avoid Tau, Eldar and Necrons.
@@thestateofplay2023 I understand. If you change your mind though there are some very reasonably priced High Grade models that are very fun to assemble.
The car wash through which I drive always pressure washes the underside of my car. Because you started it! By the way your satirical similes are superb.
🤣🤣🤣 well don’t you have a posh car wash near you. I have a bucket. Occasionally also a sponge.
Was waiting for this one <3 Great work as always. Very interested to hear & see how your personal philosophy on priming changed over the years!
Im on it but I have another vid I promised to make first. About 3D printing…
@@thestateofplay2023 Sick! 🥳 Been thinking about getting into 3D-Printing for a while. But wasn't able to come up with a convincing, while space-saving setup so far. Also not to sure how to "handle" the (resin-) fumes 🤔
Yeah, the exact problem I had/have. Tbh honest, I’m not 100% sure printing is for me. I love the idea of it, but all the hoops you jump through just don’t seem worth it. And it’s not that much cheaper
@@thestateofplay2023 I feel ya :/ A friend of mine is praising it above all... like he found the recipe to turn air into gold or water into wine. But the more I look into it, the more I'm putting it in the "nice to have, but not necessary" category.
I've been a resin 3d printer and modeler for a few years and IMHO 3d printing is about the same as woodworking. You can assemble 3 boards of whatever and calling it a table but the quality and details will be lacking compared to commercial products. You can also print models you have minutely sliced and modified or digitally kitbashed that are not available anywhere else and make them your own. People often minimize the skill learning needed to properly slice and support a model or the not so pleasant post processing that implies mask and gloves wearing and room ventilation. The good news is you can go the IKEA way and order from printing services that have already built up a process around a catalog of models. Custom printing on the other hand is way more expensive because of the manual work implied just for one customer.
I really enjoy your videos and their content....so much so that I think I have watched all your videos a few times over. Keep going, you are great!
Wow, you probably see my face more than my family!! 😜
Today is a State of Play video day?
Yes they go up when done. I don’t subscribe to the KZread schedule malarkey. 🤣 I’m sure that’s a road to ultimate burnout. 👍🏼
This is a sane and sensible approach, which is kinda your jam. Thanks for the videos, inspiration, and distraction from the insanity of the world 😎
Are the color map images available in a format where they can be printed at poster size?
If I remember correctly I made them A3 paper size on my Patreon but it should scale up even higher. I’d heard there’s some good free Ai software that can scale now., if needed.
Do a give away of used stuff!
I have two young kids. There’s no such thing as “used stuff”. Only things that can get recycled into “child friendly time occupiers” so a parent can keep their sanity. 🤣
Loved your video, you just saved a lot of people a ton of money in contrasts and washes, I just made 20 bottles today, half of them by following your guide and the rest by experimenting.
I’m so glad it helped!
It seems like a new model has just been released this year in April. Will you try it out if you can obtain one? Is called the Flyer SR-2
Yes, but I contacted them and apparently they have no intention of selling outside of Japan. So I intend to source one anyway from friends in Japan, review it and try to convince them to sell worldwide.
That DSPIAE mold line remover tool -- where has that thing been all my life?
I found it hidden deep within the scale modellers and gundam arsenal!
You might have also read about plants in the underhive in the Book of Peril (2019) Pg 48 "DOME JUNGLE Local flora and fungi has claimed the dome for their own, the crumbling remains of habitation completely overgrown by twisting creepers and deadly Carnivorous Plants." There is also a section about the carnivorous plants of Necromunda. Barbed Venomgorse, Shardwarck Spines, Grapple Weed. These are the plants that were in the Killzone Deathworld Forest.
Thanks Dirk!! I think that’s exactly it!
Really useful vid - cant wait for more in the series. Please make it a playlist, not enough youtubers use them and I find it really handy to navigate when you do a series like this!
Not a problem. I’ll add them as I go to a new playlist.