I'm Luke a self taught hand-tool woodworker with a passion for building with my hands and want to share this with you. Here you will see you will see a lot of beginner how to content covering the basics of hand tool woodworking from hand planes to handsaws and a sprinkle of specialty tools. I also cover other topics such as restorations, reviews and project builds big and small. If you like what you see and enjoy my content and decide to stick around i will show you how to go from a total beginner to a proficient hand-tool woodworker.
This channel is for you the viewer, and should be regarded as an educational resource on help you on your hand-tool woodworking journey
Although i am primarily a hand tool woodworker i still use select power tools to speed up certain processes such as regrinding bevels, re-sawing, wood-turning and driving screws on occasion.
Any questions please don't hesitate to Email me. My address: [email protected]
Thank you
Please enjoy your stay.
Пікірлер
I think Brad point bits are a must in my workshop. Great video.
@@jonrost5574 i agree with you. I completely forgot about brad point bits, great addition
Thorough as usual.
@@sheilbwright7649 Thanks
Great project for beginners is to build your own workbench from construction lumber.
@@pitsnipe5559 definitely a great first project
Relevant Links: + How to Check a Square for Square and Re-square it - kzread.info/dash/bejne/p4mXt9mxgNe0Z6g.html + My Beginner Hand Tool Woodworking Tool Kit - kzread.info/dash/bejne/qW13yMapqZfAlZc.html + Poor Man's Bench Sharpening Setup (sand paper) - kzread.info/dash/bejne/o2uMl7iKqb29g8Y.html + Restore Old Hand Planes with Vinegar - The Quick and Easy Way - kzread.info/dash/bejne/hZ2m19dykqTVp9I.html + Luban No 4 Handplane Initial Unboxing and Review - kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6qFu7COd6inqKw.html + Initial Setup - Luban No. 4 Hand Plane - kzread.info/dash/bejne/dqOoy7hvfLLSj5c.html + Review & Prepare Luban Hand Plane Blade and Chip Breaker - kzread.info/dash/bejne/eWiVxM-ggsXThtI.html + Stanley Bailey No. 4 Unboxing and Review - kzread.info/dash/bejne/emaj1aemec_Fe6g.html + How to prepare new Stanley Bailey hand plane! - kzread.info/dash/bejne/ipek0qqlm7rTiMo.html + New Stanley Bailey Hand-plane Improvements - kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKyY3KRxhdCTkqw.html + Mastering Free Hand Sharpening: A Beginner's Guide - kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZZ59uah6fLHUdNY.html
Awesome, I had no idea these planes could be converted! Thanks for making and sharing these instruction videos, I am really enjoying them 🙂
@@aremuolayode8661 My pleasure, glad you found the video useful
$179 usd on Amazon
@@roberte.wilson5213 Thanks for sharing the cost
Beautiful, wedged in through the top is better, less risk of the head flying off if the glue fails.
@@davestinyworkshop you're correct but i can't remember the last time my pva glue failed, i can report both mallets are still working perfectly fine with no issues
I currently use a ryoba and a dozuki for most of my work. I like the idea of owning saws like these, which can be re-sharpened and will last virtually forever.
@@aremuolayode8661 My main gripe with all the pull saws is they mass produced throw away saws for the most part as they can't be resharpened. The other thing is they're only designed for soft wood, which most of the manufacturers say but not in their marketing, they can break teeth in hard woods which I've experienced and won't repeat. These S & J saws can be sharpened for a lifetime and can be used in all wood types and aren't difficult to use. Which is why I wanted to create an inexpensive set that everyone can use.
Thank you Sir.🎉
@@user-io9ln1or7c Thanks for watching
Hi, i have been using these, great saws, reviewed by paul sellers and rex kruger. Apparently made in Taiwan.
@@soofihasan thanks for your thoughts on the saws. From everything i can find these saws are still made in Sheffield in England, actually according to S & J's website all the S & J tools are made in Sheffield and the only ones made in china are the eclipse line up.
I have two of the panel saws and sharpened one rip cut. I am very pleased with them. I don’t think S+J do a gent’s saw but I can recommend the Crown Tools version which is available on Amazon U.K. One should be aware that some gents saws are 20tpi and produce a fine cut but are very difficult, if not impossible, to sharpen.
@@eddienew2044 Excellent great to hear you're pleased with the saws. Yes, i agree it's best to get a gent saw that's no more than about 15 TPI if possible.
Should be an interesting few videos.😊
@@stuartansell9461 i look forward to releasing them
There is another panel saw in the Spear & Jackson range. 9515-K. It is 7tpi and cut for rip. The two S&J panel saws really got me going using traditional handsaws. Very affordable and cut well. I always intended to reshape the handles but in the end upgraded to good quality second hand and a new Dorchester saw from Finn & Co. The S&J work fine, but the better saws sit so much better in the hand and are better balanced. I think the main issue with the S&J panels saws is that there is a lot of wood between the handle opening and the blade. That leads to the balance not being as good as it could be. Whether reshaping would have helped I don't know, but I think the grip will still end up too far from the blade. Even so, for the price the S&J are excellent and I'd thoroughly recommend them for starting out.
@@robnichols9331 i am aware there was another panel saw the 9515-K as you said, but it was a lot more expensive when i saw looking so i got 2 of the cheaper saw. I will be releasing a video on reprofiling the handle so i will take note of the balance when i do this. Thanks for bringing this to my attention so i can look out for this.
@@AussieWoodshed Interesting that the price is so different for you. Here in UK the two saws are around the same price. The site I got mine from even has the 7tpi saw cheaper than the 9tpi by a couple of pounds.
@@robnichols9331it may be due to the saws not being manufactured here are n Australia, but that wouldn't account for the 9tpi being cheaper, so im not sure why
@@AussieWoodshed Perhaps the 9tpi is more popular - good old supply and demand.
@@robnichols9331 definitely possible
Certainly decent saws for the money. Big difference between these and Pax is the Pax saw plates are taper ground, which adds considerably to the manufacturing cost. Is taper ground a must? Not really, the main advantage is less set is required on the teeth. Crappy handles seems to be the norm, I had to reshape my Pax handles too....
@@philaandrew100 thanks, i saw unaware the pax saws were taper ground. I agree the mass produced handles are not great on any of the saws. Thanks for sharing this as i do not own a pax saw, much appreciated
I bought the large skewback you showed (SJ9500R) last October as a Bunnings special order for $36.05. Was really happy with it. Went online to buy another one a couple weeks later to convert to a rip saw and it was no longer available.
@@dominicstefan3139 i too had seen them at Bunnings and i went to buy them and they weren't there. But you definitely got a great deal.
I use cheapish Narex marking knife. It is fine, until yesterday when I was making quite small box joints for my latest project. First three joints were "ok, somewhat tight". I thought that I can do better for the last corner, so I spent 10-15mins resharpening and stropping it. And it was worth it, much more precise lines and the whole joint was way tighter and cleaner looking. It's a decent knife, but somehow I dislike it, dunno why, maybe I'll try small beveled utility knife or some such. The handle on that one knife yours seem to be same that in my Narex, ALWAYS ROLLING AROUND THE TABLE AND TO THE FLOOR! :D
@@kimmosaarinen2780 it's amazing the difference being nice and sharp makes with any edged tool. I have a few marking knives but I'm not 100% happy with the ones I've got, but they work well enough to get the job done. Maybe one day ill find or make one i really like
Can't presently recall who but there is a firm that sells saw kits and they provide free templates for saw handles, real free not free only if you buy their kit. They come in various sizes so you can adjust them to be a perfect fit for your specific hand. I think they come in various styles. Everyone is different but custom handles improved my sawing. Anyway, cheers and keep up the good work.
@@sheilbwright7649 i will have a look and see if i can find who they are. I agree a handle adjusted to be comfortable for the individual does help with the sawing in my opinion also.
@@AussieWoodshed I am always reluctant to provide too many details on anyone's channel about something they are not getting the credit for ( I wonder when a commenter says " X over on y chanel" did this really well" whether they considered that their comment doesn't help the channel their commenting on). But if you can't find it and your OK with me putting a direction to elsewhere I could have a look for it tomorrow. Cheers from the east.
I have been considering this brand. Great timing on the video and look forward to watching the follow up videos. Thank you for sharing.
@@nickmastro9287 thanks
Greetings from Finland, fellow self taught (well, still studying) 'woodsmith' here. This video popped on my front page, "Well, I already I know this stuff but it never hurts to re-study and see how others do it" Instantly subbed, and here's why: You're not trying to sell anything, no affl links or whatever, you're not telling viewers that this and that has to be done with tool brand X or your project will be misery etc. I hate that :D Clear, informative video, no unnecessary BS, no annoying edits or whatnot. Before you even mentioned revered Mr. Paul Sellers, I knew that you had 'studied with him', he is a great man and a great teacher. Only one thing to add and it's not a gripe: I enjoy longer videos (usually build videos, 25-60min), maybe you could do a special episode that is longer (like said Mr. Sellers). Hope you have great Sunday, I'm gonna go get baked and go to work on my latest project! EDIT: Oh, you do have longer build videos! I just didn't notice them at first.
@@kimmosaarinen2780 Thanks for the comment, i agree it never hurts to brush up on techniques and see how others do things. Sometimes I find a little tip that might help improve my own process, which is great. Yes, i do have a few longer build videos and i am planning on filming more hopefully fairly soon. Thanks again
I’ve the two panel saws and done exactly as you suggest and filed one rip. Both are great saws once refiled. My next step is to reshape the handles to something more comfortable.
@@bcargnel excellent, sounds like great results
Skew back (the panel saw) is currently $AUD 40.33 on checking today (nearly 40% off) but from the UK so $20 shipping ... still cheaper than the current local (non sale) price (edit) If you live in WA you can get the saw for AUD$56 from Toolmart.
@@nurgle11 That's a great price, thanks for letting everyone know
that looks like a great starter set for folks that wanna learn to sharpen and maintain their saws. i have to admit that i use hardpoint saws for most of my cross cutting these days. i have handles that i 3d printed from carbon fiber impregnated ABS that i swap onto the blades as i get new ones. as far as the saws in your video go, i have the 9550B back saw, 9500R panel saw and 9515K 24" panel saw. they are fine. i drilled out the handles and made my own because i could and i do a lot of ripping and resawing so the 9515K really needed it. i went with wood on those handles but they are the same shape as my printed handles. i reset the teeth straight for the 24" and filed off every other tooth to approximate a 3.5TPI . i thought about grinding it down to flat and recutting from scratch and jointing it but ended up just skip filing the teeth as an experiment to save time. it worked out pretty well after i figured out i needed to file off the fleam to perpendicular to the saw plate. the saw was pulling to one side before i did that. i used a round file to put a bit of a gullet where the missing tooth was. i left all the teeth at the tip of the tip of the saw and set a progressive rake to make starting easier. it's a beast of a saw now, but it struggles in some thick stock that is hard and gummy which i suppose is to be expected. it should get better when i fully recut the teeth though. i mostly use a Chinese style frame saw for resawing when i care about how much i am losing to the kerf, but i like the western style rip saw at around 3.5TPI when i am powering through a resaw or thick rip. it is my main rip saw when i am working on a panel where my frame saw doesn't fit well.
@@jsmxwll thanks for sharing your experience and uses with these saws
I have that larger tenon saw. Looking forward to learning how to set up nicely.
@@jonrost5574 thanks for the comment
Well, I have almost the identical set here (bought about 2 years ago but still unused), ready to make a video about. I have: 5410Y 10", 9550B 12", 9500R 22" and 9515K 24" plus a Lynx 8" Gents saw and as a bonus, I added a Bahco 301 fretsaw. In addition, I bought on eBay a Spear & Jackson/Eclipse 94-370R/77 saw tooth setter (vintage but still sealed in original packaging) to use on these saws. I can't wait to see what you make of the saws. Everyone knows the handles aren't the best and a few people already have videos on improving or changing them, so I won't be covering that because I don't think I can improve on their ideas, except maybe for individual sizing and angle of approach.
@@PeteLewisWoodwork look forward to seeing that video. So far I'm pretty impressed with the saws, so they should be even better after they are setup and sharpened.
@@AussieWoodshed When you've done with them, they will be better, for sure. I bought mine some years ago with the intention of showing people how they can get a lifetime saw kit for less than the price of one premium saw. I think I chose right - and so have you. Yes, they do have issues but they are easy to overcome. At the time of buying, I think my aim was to stay within £100 UK Sterling - I don't think they would be too much more than that now. I'll check prices before I eventually get around to doing a video. My main drawback has been a lack of video equipment and a place to make videos in. It seems to be almost sorted now. It's annoying because I spent so much time doing live videography and then things beyond my control meant I didn't have equipment any more (marriages fail and things get sold to settle agreements and we have to start all over again from scratch). Never a problem, only a challenge.
Excellent , thanks Luke!
@@paulleary1775 My pleasure!
Excellent & timely video. Thanks!
@@paulleary1775 thankyou
Great lesson! Fortunately, I kept a couple of beehive wax beds from my beekeeper adventures. Thanks and greetings from Brazil to the beautiful Aussie outback!
@@igornapoleao4120 Thanks, definitely a win already having the bees wax
Beautiful shop. Thank you for sharing and welcoming us inside. Love all the shelves on walls. Doubled sheet bench is great. Side benches like that are great. Make a bit of a mess without worry there like when sharpening.
@@FearsomeWarrior Thanks, yes it's always good to have space to keep mess off the main workbench
Great video. I hope to have my own shop someday. Right now, I just have a small part of our two car garage to work in. We live in the deep south of the USA, so I would also love to have some air conditioning someday. Thanks for sharing your shop journey.
@@jonrost5574 My pleasure, I'm sure you will end up with a shop one day and you won't know what to do with all the space.
Love the music with this vid 😊
@@stuartansell9461 The track is Jul by Scott Buckley
Enjoyable and informative viewing, thank you.
@@edwardjarvinen3702 Thanks for watching and commenting
What happened to the Tormek? Also, thanks for the tips for using smaller, more constrained sheds.
@@anthonyseiver7000 the Tomek was under the sheet to left of screen when i was looking at the unseen end of the shed. I actually keep all my sharpening things there, on a flip top bench with my lathe turned upside down
@@AussieWoodshed I thought I had missed it. I need sharper eyes
@@anthonyseiver7000 well it is under a sheet X-ray vision might be more appropriate for that
Well done on utilising with what you have!
Thanks@@paulleary1775
Your lighting is terrific, and I love the look of all of your old hand-tools. A very handsome shop. Sharing space with garden supplies, storage items, etc... is something that I'm always dealing with in my garage. Bicycles are the worst. My wife just can't part with our adult children's bikes for some reason. They don't even want them, cause they have cars! :-) I would really enjoy watching you create some boxes with different joinery. Little boxes, or large, it doesn't matter. Take care.
Thanks@@Gazman299 for sharing your storage struggles and for taking the time to watch. I will put some boxes on the video ideas list!
Thanks for sharing!
@@user-qg6fy4yp8tMy pleasure. Thanks for watching
why dont you just use a single pencil line to mark out, multiple strokes with a marking knife seems totally unnecessary the fence doesnt need to be perfectly 90 degrees to the edge, the edge is not a reference point, use just glue instead of all those screws to attach the fence, it will never move , saves time effort and money, keep the fence back from the top edge so you can use a pull saw as well by placing the work on the other side of the fence, not trying to be critical just some useful points i have come across over time
@@teatarau If you don't want to make your work neat don't use the knife lines, these small projects are great times to learn. Plus i do use the end of the fence to reference my saw plate which is why i do it this way. The screws are used so the sacrificial fence can be replaced when torn up, keeping it as a reference for the saw < thus saving money and time not having to remake the bench hook. The reason i don't use these bench hooks for pull saw is, bench hooks are designed to be used with push cut saws giving them mechanical advantage of the bench hook pushing against the bench so they won't move, reverse this for a pull saw and that advantage is lost and would require you to hold the bench hook to stop it moving.
In the near future I will be releasing a video of my new home workshop and workbench. I don't yet know if you will see it on Carreg/PeteLewisWoodwork/LoungeWizard channel - one of those. It will deal with the challenge of how to make a home workshop in tough circumstances - not unlike what you are doing here. I have bought a new camera and tripod to make the video. I'm looking at this and seeing what others are dealing with to make a dream become a reality. We also have to deal with different weather around the world. I like your background lighting - James Wright does a similar thing on his Wood By Wright channel. As for electric power, I have very recently given away most of my corded power tools and now only have my cordless and hand tools. The only corded power tool I have kept is my bench drill press. All in all, an excellent video and one that I will look at again and again while setting up my own space.
@@PeteLewisWoodworkThanks Pete. I will definitely keep an eye out for your video.
Subbed with alerts as well. Shop tours are the best because sharing what you’ve done by welcoming people in to your space.
Great ideas! Thanks for sharing!🙂
@@chiplane3976 thanks for watching
The hardwood will move with collecting moisture, and then drying out. How can it ever be a dependable straightedge? Sincerely, I'm just trying to learn. I confess that during the video I thought to myself that we could all chip in and get you a table saw, but then I realized that this build isn't about that. It's about real craftsmanship. Something that is getting lost these days. Like I said. I want to learn. So glad that I found your channel. Take care.
Okay, I went a little longer into the video and I think that answers my question, but only sort of. It's still solid wood, it's going to move even with the curved top edge. Just leaning against a wall, or laying it on your workbench it's going to adjust. Ugh! :-)
@@Gazman299 Using as close to quarter sawn timber to start with is going to be a lot more stable than rift sawn (meaning the grain is very straight). The main reason for the curve on the top is to help keep the straight edge from "warping". (I know i didn't go into depth on this in the video) This is because wood exchanges moisture with the air along its end grain, so the curve exposes more end grain. This means moisture taken in by the straight edge is lost to the air extremely quickly helping to prevent warping. This technique was commonplace before the creation of metal CNC machinist straight edges and is well documented. Furthermore a finish such as shellac could be used to further restrict moisture being absorbed, but is unnecessary. If using an oil finish this would also help repel moisture being absorbed. Hope this helps
@@AussieWoodshed Interesting. Thank you for taking the time to explain this to me. It makes sense to me now. I enjoy your videos.
Knife walls >> walls of knives Just adding a comment for algorithmic goodness
Thanks much appreciated
Loving the upgrades to your shed and setup dude! Your videos have been feeling higher and higher budget lately :D
Thanks, thanks for the feedback
this is such a good, clear video :)
Thanks glad you enjoyed it
I really don't ubderstand wgy you don't have more subs and views.... On so many other videos I see people complaining about KZreadrs spending too much time trying to be funny or whatever, and here you are just consistently providing quick and simple instructional videos and you're still under 6k subs. The youtube algorithm is a fickle mistress.
Thanks, yes the KZread algorithm is definitely fickle.
Sadly the auger bits I inherited don't seem to have those outside wings at all. They're also very rusty. I don't think I'll ever be able to get them working.
That's a pity, the wings or side cutters are vital to severing the fibers for a clean cut and easy operation.
Thanks mate. Good info.
Thanks
Good video again. I agree that you should never use an end as a reference; use a square against a reference edge. If the shoulder needs to be at an angle, use a mitre square (is that how you spell it?) against a reference edge. Regarding the so-called 'knife wall', we always called it 'scoring' - scoring a line - whether it was with knife, marking gauge (there's that unspellable word again) or mortise gauge (and again). In other words, any cut or scratched marking line was called a score (or scored line). Generally speaking, the deeper you can score the line, the better - but always keep the relief (chiselling) on the waste side, just wide enough for the saw to snug into (not at an overly long and shallow angle). As you said near the end of the video (I forget the actual wording), it's all about practise. I would add that it's all about good practise. For instance, when learning to drive, it's better to learn from a good driver than a bad driver and practise what the good driver teaches. If you follow this video, you won't go wrong. Now, I need to go and learn how to spell gauge from someone who knows how to spell it correctly because I don't think I've got it right - but it looks right to me.
Thanks Pete for adding your take, as always much appreciated. I think you got your spelling correct, looks right to me!
Another informative and entertaining video. Thanks.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it
Thanks mate. At the moment I’m debating between a 5-1/2 or a low angle jack. Spoiled for choice. Useful video, thanks.
Ask 100 woodworkers you would get 100 different answers on which is the best first hand plane i reckon. As long as it's sharp, setup correctly and can take shaving the first hand plane or best first hand plane is the one you're using. I personally change my mind on my favourite hand plane all the time, but i do prefer bevel down planes over low angle planes as i think they give a better shaving especially in timber with cranky grain.
Should I worry about the steel type of the blade? I’m getting sucked in by the advertising - PMV-11, A10, HSS??? All of the old Stanleys didn’t have advanced metal blades, should it even be a consideration?
@@brucecomerford i don't worry about the steel type too much, the modern steels are all decent so i don't think it matter too much. However most of my planes are vintage ones so I'm not too savvy with the steel types.
Thanks mate - that was great. You could also use a portable single induction stove (Aldi has them occasionally, and I think IKEA has one) instead of the open flame while heating flammable liquids. I know you said you take extreme care - made me a bit twitchy. Anyway. I’m going to use your recipe - thanks!
You're not the first person to mention using an induction cooker, i will look into it and thanks for suggesting where to buy them. Hope you enjoy the paste wax!
Thanks mate. Useful!
Glad you found it useful