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Thank you for watching my videos
The content posted under this channel is to promote and improve machining and math skills for general machinist
My goal is two parts
first post educational machining videos that improves skills
Second part post math content for general machinist common core up to level three red seal apprentices "Apprentice Math"
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Great information 👍 thank
An elegantly cheap solution to an expensive problem. A few things could have been done a little different but overall it accomplished what I needed to know and I am well pleased with this video - GOOD WORK!
I feed in with my cross slide when threading. However I still set the compound to 29 degrees so I can shift the cutter if I need to tweak the thread a bit. Still enjoying your videos!
Hi Ray, you have an excellent tool to do the job. I am in Australia (yes, the backward country) ....Is there a supplier in America to order this tool from? 🤔
Where is the diamond glass cutting steel?😂😊
I would have just used an end cutting carbide end mill.
How to drill HARDENED steel? Or, how to drill HARD steel.
wonderful explaination, you deserve appreciation😁
Eso amazing video thanks
I noticed you don't use cutting oil or water to cool it. Too much pressure could be cracked carbide head.
Does the dressing stick have to be finer grit then the diamond wheel?
How is sixteen and one-half divided by two equal to eight and one-half?
Great video, very informative. What interests me is your safety helmet. Who is it made by & can you supply a link, cheers.
Use enough lubricating coolant!!!!
Lubricant?
Trying to find info on removing a stuck arbor ? Do you know anything about that ?
Thanks brother
you really should use lubricant/coolant on a high speed diamond abrasive wheel
Isn't it advised to preload your diamond grinding wheel with another substance beforehand, so that soft materials have a harder time clogging it up? Also, I know I'm not the only one that's pointed this out, but it sure felt like clickbait titling this _"How to _*_Drill Harden_*_ Steel",_ because not only did you mean "Hardened Steel", you also made *"Drill Harden"* the highlighted text. I thought I was getting a bloopers reel of the wrong ways to cut stainless or titanium and it work hardening. It was still interesting, so I watched and gave a 👍🏾. Though, the fact this video has been incorrectly titled for over a year now, gives me pause...
Marvelous! Thank you!
You should know that you could use a "green" grinding wheel to grind carbide.
your explanation is crystal clear ...thank you sir for uploading
How to drill a hole with hardened steel? Simple! With a harder drill bit
A better fix for the stripped thread is to bolt down a NON MAGNETIC plate to the top of the base. The plate is the same size as the mag base and about 10mm thick. Use a screw in each corner. Stainless steel works well. You will notice a significant improvement in stem rigidity using this method plus there are no longer any aluminium threads to strip out.
They are .... Masonry bits , ..... Not Masonary ..... you should know that .
When I went to school 16 1/2 or 16.5 ÷2 was 8 1/4 or 8.25 not 8,5
Youneed a mandrel by the workpiece to get rigid enough to avoid breaking brittle bits.
Should work on dovetail, tenon saw, miter saw and other back saw plates, etc., as well as any other hand saw saw plate, all of which which are made of spring steel.
Try using lub coolent spray, it may help.
Thank you!
Great video!
If drilling through thick aluminum, how long should the bit stay in contact before lubing and clearing shavings? Also, how much downward force should one use to not burn up the bit?
hardened. It's hardened steel.
What material is the diamond dressing stone?
Is it hard steel or "hardened" steel?
Thank you for this great information. I was just wondering why not use the Brown and Sharp 49 hole circle instead of Cincinnati 42 hole circle for the 7 divisions example, if the idea is going for the most holes.
Awesome video, Is the rear fixed jaw supposed to be fixed or allowed the pull down like the movable jaw ? Thanks
on this particular style of vice which, unfortunately we don’t use anymore The front jaw and the back jaw or stationary jaw and moveable jaw, both move up and down. That is how it clamps your workpiece firmly on the parallels. With this style of vice, it is extremely important that maintenance is done to this on a weekly basis it needs to be taken apart and cleaned and oiled if you’re going to be using the pulldown feature To use it as fixed all you need to do is tighten the 6 mm bolts, and that will prevent the jaws from pulling down and make them stationary Hopefully this helps Ray
@@shopandmath Thanks for the prompt reply. I understand - Thanks!
Concise and thorough! Thank you and greetings from Patagonia Chile!!
from chilli that’s awesome Thank you for letting me know where you’re from. I appreciate that it. It’s kind of cool and thank you for taking the time to comment with a nice comment. It is so much appreciated. Thank you Ray
I thought this video shows a technique how to harden steel with "drill hardening" process. Lmao
sorry about the misleading title as hard as it is to believe I didn’t make the title it was generated through tube Buddy, which is a KZread making program I guess I could make a video on friction welding Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
3 in one oil works great in s shop, and will preserve your tools against heat damage. Heat is especially a factor with brazed tool bits. Putting a nice sharp edge on any drill bit is easy if you have a diamond flat sharpener, in the same idea as a 3 by 8 inch stone.
if you don’t have a diamond wheel, some people have been commenting about using a small diamond wheel on a Dremel now I personally have never thought of that, and I will be incorporating that in on one of my next videos just to see how it turns out Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
@@shopandmathWhy didn't you use cutting oil or any kind of lube when you drilled that hole?? That and slow speed, you probably would have completed the hole with the first drill bit.
Three pumps and you’re good. Brings me back to when I was 16. All BS aside, I’m glad I saw this video. I use rivnuts pretty often. The manufacturer of the product we install them on supplies the rivnut, Allen key and instructions on how to install them using said Allen key and an open end wrench. AND THEY SUCK!!! Thank you sir!
well, this would put a smile on my face. Thank you for that. And thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Thank you.
thank you for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated. Ray
Daddy likes very much
thank you for the nice comment. Honestly, I think you’re the only one to do so. I was experimenting with automated voice, and everyone hates it, so I stopped, making automated voice videos I’m not very good at, and they seem to take a very long time So thank you very much for the nice comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
This is legit. I used one of these bits to drill out a broken bolt that had been work hardened to a point that nothing would touch it.
Thank you for sharing and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
What about concrete bits?sorry I didn’t watch all the way thru first but what about using oil or any lube?
Thanks for the video and sharing the design. So you or anyone reading is aware, the step file you shared for the top hanger "saw handle 6" is a mirror image of what is needed and shown in your video. It is also the single piece design, which is fine by me. I'll go and reprint it as a mirror and look forward to trying it out.
With Sorbie, the quality is not always there. The Simon hope products that I've been able to get my hands-on have been excellent.
Best way to hard tool a hole... carbide drill and constant compressed air blowing those hard chips out and cooling the hardened tool steel. Drill at a fairly fast rpm, depending on drill diameter, and peck... cut and get out, cut and get out, all while using your air hose or even a spray mist with the coolant shut off so its just blowing cool air. Carbide needs some rpm, especially smaller drill bits. You can use a good American made 10% cobalt bit if interupted cuts are involved, bc interupted cuts will destroy carbide. But you can't run the cobalt as fast as carbide. Flood cobalt bits with coolant. I'd say 800 rpm for a 1/4" carbide bit, 300 rpm for a good American made 10% cobalt 1/4" bit. Might want to ride your quill lock just a little when breaking thru so you dont knock the corners off your bits.
That’s a good explanation. Thank you for sharing. Most cobalt drills at 5%. I haven’t heard of a 10% one. Do you know the manufacturers name? There are many types of cobalt drill bits, but the most common are M42 cobalt drill bits (composed of 8% cobalt) and M35 cobalt drill bits (5% cobalt)
@@shopandmath You are so welcome and I hope you have good results. I've been retired for about 5 years so I cant recall the brands that make hss-cobalt 10% but I know they were American made. You got my curiosty up so I've kind of been looking around on the web with no luck, only 8% like you said. I will check my tooling later on to see if I have anything that will jog my memory. The 8% should work too with a little slower rpm and flood coolant. I could always tell a big difference between American hss-cobalt and imported, in all grades. I see MoMax makes a 10% but all I've found there are square bits, drill blanks, and part-off blades. Maybe try TRW Putnam or Cleveland Greenfield?
Thank you!
Thank you for commenting and thank you for taking the time to comment. It is much appreciated.
Proper Threading inserts are designed to feed in a Zero Degrees, those designed for this collapse the chip, much the way a Carbide parting/ grooving insert does. A CNC program written this way only shows a succession of deeper cuts with no angle. This can be altered to several different thread cutting techniques, that only CNC machines can allow. When Using carbide for threading in a manual lathe, surface speed is more of problem, so much depends on the operators skill. HIGH SPEED STEEL threading tools are RARELY ground to produce the correct thread form, and they are never ground for the ultimate in threading topping.