These videos are very interesting and important for correct servicing a Thorens TD160. Thank you very much Sir!

Many thanks for your video - very useful. it's now obvious to me that the springs on my deck are setup very badly indeed and I now know what I'm aiming for 🙂

Im going 2 get a td160 en lokking al the video's in advans good thing this wil help me a lot

Wow got here from your boat vid had that table back in the day shure v15 mr memories thru my khorns lol

Hi - thanks for the in-depth videos. I am in the process of rebuilding(new plinth) a TD 160. A problem I have is with the tone arm wires. Any time I try to strip the insulation in order to solder they break…shortening the wire. The wires seems incredibly fragile. Almost like I am working with hair. I am considering purchasing new wires but wanted to get your input. Did you experience anything like this? Your wires seem much more solid. Thanks, much appreciated

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

I never try to strip the insulation with cutters or strippers. The wires are simply too thin and delicate. Instead I use the tip of my hot soldering iron to melt back the insulation and expose the delicate strands. Hope this helps.🤔😉

Did this 25 yrs ago before YT existed. 😁🤣

@frankieboy5859

7 ай бұрын

But I have a TD125 MKII since 2002 with a Jelco Arm and Cardas wire which claearly outperforms TD160.

Working through your video to replace my tone arm tube. Just finished the Queue lever re-lube. Question, those dang tone arm wires are short on the new arm, as you mentioned. In the video you skip splicing to the old wires other than a few comments. These wires seem to have a plastic coating, then have to split the shielding for soldering and remove the center wire insulation. Any suggestions on how to prep the old wires would be appreciated. I will practice on the wire still on the old arm. Thx much.

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

The wires are extremely fine. Instead of stripping with wire cutters I think I used a lighter to strip away a small bit of insulation....🤔

Wow great video's. I have a TD 160 from my youth in the garage I am thinking for working over with your guidance, One question I have is I always had a hum/connect issue between the head and the arm. Twisting the head made it go in/out. Tried cleaning but did not help. Do I need to replace the arm tube with connector to fix this? Did not see any way to tighten the electrical connection between the 2. Thank you so much for all your information.

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

Usually it is the hesdshell connection to the arm tube or it can be the lead wires to the headshell (either end). If sny are loose you will get hum. Also check the lead wires inside. They are usually soldered to a block. Try resoldering. Use Contact cleaner like D5 Deoxit as you could have corroded connections. Tge collar of the arm tubevalso needs to be quite snug. Careful not to over torque... There is also a ground mod to the chassis in the service manual. That is usually not the issue but thought you should be aware...

@MyDhaines

Жыл бұрын

@@navydiving thanks so much for your reply. I dug out the turntable that I bought new in the 70's and am surprised at how good of shape its in. Fired right up. I suspect the head connection/wiring. The intermittent hum developed only a few years after buying it. I dove all in and ordered a new arm tube with connector/wires, new head wires, rca connectors and belt. Looks like a fun project and expect to be studying your videos much more closely

Nice work! Levelling the platter, shouldn't it be done with a headshell attached on the arm?

@navydiving

2 жыл бұрын

You are absolutely correct - one step ahead of you though. See this video I had already posted: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oWWG2quglaqZnM4.html

Hello, many thanks for all your videos, so instructive :) I have one question: is there any way to find the wires connector located on the chassis ? (the connector on which you plug the tonearm wires). On my TD145 that I'm upgrading, it seems it has been altered in some way. Can this piece or equivalent be available as spare part ?

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

Here is one at the 9 min mark showing one in a TD-165. I have seen two types of junction blocks in the TD-160. One is like this and the other is at the base of the tonearm. I will see if I can find a video of that. Easy to make I would think - I have made many workable 3D prints for some of my audio projects: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZZZl1tF-edmwZZc.html

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

Check out 44 min 27 seconds here for a TD-160 remembering a td-145 is really just a TD-160 with auto Lift: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mWF3s6SBgbTVYpM.html

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

Here is the other style at about 19 minutes in - you can see beyond my fat head from time to time): kzread.info/dash/bejne/Z6OAzY9tm7awh8Y.html

@streamtease1

Жыл бұрын

@@navydiving Thanks for all the replies! Yes I think I should change the connector block with a new one. And with this new one, I think to plug the ground wire from the arm to the block, and the ground wire as an external one to be plugged on pre-amp instead of being on the inner chassis of the TD. I'd love to get a new connector set, if you ever have a workable one available and if you can ship to Europe, I'd like to buy it from you, including s+h and tax.

I found a td160 for relatively cheap. Everything works as it should , looks like it has been serviced well. Recently I’ve experienced an issue with one of the channels quiet and now almost non existent. The RCA jacks look to be original with the grey wire (will replace soon) The headshell also causes a slight fizzing noise when I touch the metal guide. Would this be the cartridge , headshell wires or wiring within the arm ?

@navydiving

4 ай бұрын

Regrets, impossible to diagnose without my seeing it first. Could be any of the things you listed. Best to take it to a local Tech

@Metaldoodd

4 ай бұрын

@@navydiving I did take the headshell apart last night and cleaned the pins. It’s fixed the one channel cutting out. Now there’s a slight sound that almost sounds like the tweeter is going. It is not and my dual 606 plays fine without that sound. I ordered some new RCA plugs from vinylnirvana so hopefully that is the issue.

Ciao quale diferenza c'è tra il td 160 e il td 316 quale potrebbe essere più performante bel video peccato che non capisco la tua lingua aspetto una risposta un saluto

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

Personally I much prefer the Thorens TD-160. It is ubiquitous and probably the most tweakable and popular vintage turntable on the planet. I have no experience with the TD-316 so cannot render a sonic comparison. Perhaps it was born too late in the war against CDs and never achieved the poularity of the TD-160 by virtue of when it was marketed (1988 - 1991)?

Also, do you have a td165 Tonearm replacement video?

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

I do not sorry

Hi there NavyDiver, can you post a link to the tonearm bearing adjustment on the thorens td 160, your're right I can't find it. Thanks!!~

@navydiving

2 жыл бұрын

All my videos for the 160 are linked herein: audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/thorens-td-160-mk-1-tune-up-and-setup-project.991147/

@Freedom89984

Жыл бұрын

Hi, is it possible to lube the bearings of the tone arm without disassemble the arm? With an injection needle for example? My TD 145 mk2 tone arm still functioning but maybe it needs a little drop of oil.

Any idea how these get bent like that? I have a used one that is also bent and I have no idea how anyone could have done that.

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

My bet is the tt dust cover came down on the arm...

HI, do you have a video on how to change the audio cable??

@navydiving

2 жыл бұрын

Tge TD-165 is mostly the same as the TD-160 depending on the junction block. Keep the cables if you can and just change the RCA jacks. The original cables are better matched than mostbyou will buy. Remember that thicker cables are not better for low level signal feeds like those coming from a turntable... kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZZZl1tF-edmwZZc.html

Hi! , I saw in a previous video that printed 3D a Motor protection rod for td 160. Can you tell me the diameter in mm of the part? the threaded part I know is M3. Thank you

@navydiving

2 жыл бұрын

See the caliper dimensions here taken from my TD-165 (same size as TD-160): timothyflath.smugmug.com/Stereo/Turntables/Thorens/TD-160

@pauloalmeida9688

2 жыл бұрын

@@navydiving thank you . Nice job. PA from Portugal

I am refurbishing a tone arm can you please send me a pdf or jpg of the tone arm assembly info you have, thank you

How Ironic I just walked in the door with a New Sony Turntable I acquired from a friend of mine that had it listed on marketplace, Liked the vid, Full View always

fun stuff. I might (probably not ) be the only one that has butchered one of the 4 tiny wires that connect to back of cartridge - so I have an excellent TD 240 -2 Thorens worth less than 2 cents. WHY they don't have a better system, just plug in the cartridge or at least make the wire ends 2x tougher... even insulation tube over each of the metal clip and say 8mm of the tiny wire would be a big + and cost like nothing oh, and make the wires 10 mm longer to make changing cartridge somewhat doable. Well found out at 73 my hands can't do this stuff. all the more reason Thorens should do better, these are not cheap products. And of course Ya can't find an actual stereo store anymore, never mind a reliable elec. repair shop..

Could I get a copy of the Tonearm you showed in the video?

@navydiving

Жыл бұрын

Do you have a TD-160 or a TD-165? The ars are slightly different. One is a TP-16 and the other is a TP-11...🤔

@Game_Impala

Жыл бұрын

@@navydiving TD-165. I’m having real trouble fishing the wires from the Tonearm down the small tube to connect to terminal.

@Game_Impala

Жыл бұрын

@@navydiving TD-165

why don't you 3D print the arm tube it would be much better! and put a cross + section in it as well and a funnel shape, that wood filament 3D printed might be best can you do us one? should give it a go it's got to be a lot lighter than the standard tube and stiffer. instead of round make it box shape! with the cross members you will make 4 triangles should be very stiff and rigid. don't think you'll be able to do the nut?? only with a resin 3D printer, what would be better as well you not got just standard? would make a 3D printed arm bored as well would be better than the standard plastic, I made mine out of wood you have to 3D print all the way down to the screw hole posts the slightly short so you can add nylon washers maybe making arm tube with the headshell all-in-one it is better sonically like that. your need to put some copper tape inside the arm tube just a strip where the wires would lie, earth to the body of the tonearm there is a wire there or connected to the rca, best to use a separate earth ground in case you want to use it balanced tho! you can use very small drill bits to undo the bearing just take them together hold on with your fingers and use a screwdriver to twist I would change the tonearm wire no point keeping that, just use 30 gauge pure silver wire with teflon sheaf you can buy separately, small bit of shrink wrap to give you the colours you need on the ends. no don't bend it in the Voice... you need to bend it from inside pushed out the dent, use something that's long that's got a ball bearing on the end if you got a welder you can weld a bearing on a drill bit you can actually do it where you are not actually see the dent anymore if you are patient. that's a bit of a silly way to do you don't need to use shrink tubing just tie together the end of the wires with a bit of thread and pull the thread through. I don't like the idea of soldering wires together causes sonic problems, the reason they had the block next to the tonearm is because of sonic benefits being on the main part of chassis giving more isolation then being on the plinth, if you stick down a block with 3M sticky pad would be best and just solder, but the best way is to take the wires all the way out to the RCA jacks and not having a break in the tonearm wire and triple shielded when it leaves the tone arm

@navydiving

2 жыл бұрын

Because an arm tube has built in precision bearings. Those cannot be replicated using 3D printing technonolgies at my disposal.

@hoobsgroove

2 жыл бұрын

@@navydiving no you would take that off !! not talking about that the hub the gimbal what holds the bearing I'm talking about the tube can be dismounted from the hub, it is glued in you can release the glue with acetone soaked in acetone. you don't think 3D printing is accurate enough! some 3D printing is I believe no different to the hub being cast what it is. but yes setting the bearing you would need a jig laser-guided. you could try making a golf tonearm what is uni pivot, you need a vertical posts and across post that you can slide a gromit over what you would attach polyester thread to, a arm can be 3D printed to accept golf ball, the golf ball would have a hole drilled in it for the thread to pass threw a small pipe from Q-Tip in the golf ball what is glued in, you need a Vaseline pot as the base connected to a bamboo base, where the vertical is you place a golf ball in the Vaseline what you would dilute with silicone oil to the right consistency just a little so the golf ball is suspended in the fluid very easy to make. the design is by Well-Tempered tonearm turntable. have a look best to use brass as the post and cross member.

@navydiving

2 жыл бұрын

@@hoobsgroove cheaper and simpler just to buy a new arm tube. It cost me Just over $100 Cdn to get a new old stock one direct from Switzerland 🇨🇭 . I couldn't be bothered to go through all the CAD work necessary as a make work project. It would cost a heck of a lot of my time which at my work hourly billing rates these days simply makes no economical sense. Time is money after all...😉