I have a 318, and when I first got it last year, it ran perfectly. Then suddenly it began to act EXACTLY as you describe, to a 'T'. So I bought a cheap Chinese carb- and it never really ran like it did when I first got it. It STILL did exactly as you describe, although it at least ran and was usable. Then two weeks ago I got the OEM carb back out and cleaned the jets. The carb interior was fairly clean, and in both jets, I could see thru the holes. But I cleaned them anyway using thin copper wire. I also cleaned carefully and polished the needle valve seat. I reinstalled the carb- and she's been running perfectly since. No governor lag issues. No more having to find that 'just barely closed a tiny bit' choke setting to make it run nice. Now, just like when I first got it- full choke to start then immediately push choke all the way back in- and she's ready to rock at any throttle or load.

Actually a very nice tractor for these types of things!

Thank you for the tip on the spark plug heat range issue. Sure enough, I see I had put #5 heat range in my 322 after crossing the original manual's BPR4BS. It does not start very easy in the cold. Going to pick up some #4's.

Great video. Have not seen one in a while.

when its that cold the mixture is going to be lean. colder more dense oxygen rich air even a brand new properly adjusted carb is going to have trouble at -15c(5f) especially on todays blended fuel

Had a very similar spark plug issue with my '79 Kawasaki motorcycle. Manual calls for NGK B8ES, I switched over to a B6ES. Could not get the bike to run at all prior to that

My 322 came with the 4 way 54" plow and I really enjoy it.

The MEK will do a good job of dissolving organic stuff (oil, varnish, etc) but won't touch oxides (rust/corrosion coatings and particles). If you suspect any corrosion products could be clogging any jets or passages, you need to use acid to dissolve them. The best way is to boil the disassembled carb in a mild acid, like vinegar or lemon juice. I had a carb that I'd cleaned with solvent several times that still constantly ran lean, so I knew it wasn't running lean due to organic stuff. I boiled it in vinegar for about 10 minutes (do this outside lol) and it ran like a champ afterwards. Boiling does 2 things; a) the acid works faster when it's hot, and b) the bubbling action helps move the acid around and through the passages in the carb.

I thank you for Your spark plug info!!! I have a 317 that has always had starting issues. I rebuilt it completely trying to solve the issue. Low and behold I have a #7 heat range plug in it so I will be looking to get those swapped out

Not as cold here, but all my machines require different fiddily choke settings on cold starts. Very relaxing video!

Love these vids man, I have a 316 John Deere with a 20 horsepower Linamar LX790 motor in it. I have the same blade and snowblower as you do

I would never go a two-way blade. I would only use four-way blade. I’ve been using a four-way blade for 37 years with no trouble not one and I have been through some of the biggest winters in northern Wisconsin I’ve ever seen and the tractor. I have just right through it. The angle never changes, you just had a bad deal when you bought yours

I need a hydrostatic foot-control and power lift/angle. Maybe one day lol

I have a Craftsman T240 Turn Tight tractor 5" turning ..Kohler 7000 series 22 horsepower 725cc V Twin engine...dry weight is 630 pounds it does fantastic plowing

Did you by chance have a lockout valve on the rear lift cylinder when you ran the power angle cylinder? The 300 series have a known "issue" where the angle is affected and slow due to the hydraulic flow being shared between the rear cylinder and the front remotes for angling. I have a 4 way on my 318 and have never had an issue pushing very heavy snow without losing angle settings

This is a visually cool video to watch, good job! Love that john deere! 👍

Side edgers would help a great deal.

Any chance you have a part number for the hydraulic portion of the blade? Not the mounting bracket to the tractor nor the blade, just the middle hydraulic part.

Lacquer thinner tends to swell plastic parts, gaskets,ect....

Is it a diesel