Adam Ondra #19: Lead Season Starts
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Like every year, the first half of the year was dedicated to bouldering and the second one will be dedicated to lead. Now it is time for this transition, to gain some endurance as quickly as possible. Lead is very different from bouldering, requires different skills and training. Learn more about the difference and how it really feels to be pumped!
Credits:
Special Thanks To
CINEPOINT.CZ
Camera
PAVEL KLEMENT
LACO KORBEL
JAN ŠIMÁNEK
PETR ZÁRUBA
Post Production
ADAM LIGOCKI / FILMUNIT.CZ
Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Thumbnail Picture
LACO KORBEL
© 2019 AO Production s.r.o.
Пікірлер: 115
Adam, you're the best and my idol. I just want to ask you if you could do a video, where you explain how do you warm up before starting climbing. Thank you so much. Keep going I believe in you❤️❤️✌️
@SuperKoop21
5 жыл бұрын
apparently he doesn't really warm up skip to 1:13. His method may have changed since 2017. kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2Guzc-rmsWTY9o.html
@sebastianopiazzi4576
5 жыл бұрын
@@SuperKoop21 thanks, I go watch that immediately
I'd like to have Adam's "0 endurance" please.
@KhaosTy
4 жыл бұрын
I'm sure it took him his whole life climbing to get to the point where that's his 0.
Nice describing your girlfriend as your "most frequent climbing partner" :-) Love it.
@thehapagirl92
5 жыл бұрын
A penguin's climbing journey Me on my bf lol
@michaelcheng7920
5 жыл бұрын
She's humble as hell for an 8C climber, she's far from "just a climber"
@iainmacdonald6257
5 жыл бұрын
@@michaelcheng7920 Wow, really? Damn she's truly incredible, must suck dating the best in the world
@thehapagirl92
5 жыл бұрын
Iain Macdonald Why would it suck? Us women aren’t competing against you men. She’s probably really happy that she gets to namedrop her bf every chance she gets lol.
@rrrents
5 жыл бұрын
@@thehapagirl92 They don't seem like people who would get their joy from namesdropping, they seem both rather down to earth. Also, of course women aren't competing against the men but at the same time, Janja Garnbret and Isabelle Faus are definitely not just "good climbing women", they are good climbers who climb better than most men as well. There are very few people at the TOP top, no matter the gender, and right now there are both men and women doing incredible things out there. Men having better reach and more strength, women having better flexibility, better weight / finger strength ratio etc.
These Vlogs are incredible! Keep inspiring us all Adam! 💪 🧗♂️
Vamos Adam! Eres una maquina!!! Hay que ir poco a poco. Como primer día no está nada mal. Lo más importante; la constancia. Animoooooooo!
Gracias ADAM por su simpleza y fluidez ! Buenas Vibras para tus articulaciones + tejidos conectores y movilizadores desde Argentina !
We enjoy to see you in Villars this year!!!😍
you're my inspiration!
Top wie immer. Ich freue mich auch schon auf Innsbruck.
great video! Thank you for the quality content.
Get well soon! Lead is youre strong suit and competition is FIERCE this season!
Hope you recover soon! Looking forward to seeing you in Briancon.
3:19 is my spirit animal
@lynzimoore3561
4 жыл бұрын
i was searching for this comment
It's funny how he says that Innsbruck is the best climbing wall in the world in his opinion since that is also where I always go to! I need to appreciate that more I guess :D
@philippgothert7286
5 жыл бұрын
it‘s true!!!
Nice video - as usual! Let your wrist heal and then train like hell 💪
Hiii Adam, you are great!!
thanks for the video. good to see, that even adam ondra has the same problems as i do :D
Get well soon. Pls take care!
Молодцом!
Awesome videos!!
I recently had a wrist innury. I quit doing dips and that's what helped it heal.
Dude, that's the BD pipe dream 45. I just used mine for the first time at the crag last Friday. Its freakin' siiiiiiick. Still need to improve the top enclosure, but yeah practicality is bad ass. Fits all my gear and then becomes a mini crash pad.
Go Adam!
Wish you quick recovery! I know that you can make it! :) No matther what, I know You are THE BEST in the world!
You 're my idole, when I'm going to climb I think of you result game almost in the 7a
Best of the best!!!!
Best to listen to your body and not push it if you can. Keep it up.
Hero!
No video on bouldering in vail? 😢 Thanks for this video!
Props for giving credit to partner! She is pretty, god bless her soul!)
hope u make it
The Anthony Davis of climbing.
Nerdneck journal: It's been episode #19, still no stretching tips. Great video anyways!
Hello Adam, please tell me the name of the melody at the beginning of your commercials?
This is awesome! But it's one thing I never heard/seen and that's.. why does no climber use Beta-Alanine? It helps a ton with lactic acid!
@pajaroprofeta
5 жыл бұрын
you don't need it when you have the right.. beta
Am I the only that can't find any of the songs in the credits?
Once i was in insbruck i broke my arm while climbing boulders but now im ok
@mrmoorash
5 жыл бұрын
how it happen?
that thing you explained about the lactic acid and the pain...why nobody understands that and identifies yelling with being in a extreme route that takes all of you? I always find the typical comment complaining about high level climbers grunting because the effort/pain envolved.
It would be nice to know why he is using the Solutions LV version for lead, but regular version for bouldering since the only difference is the volume of the shoe.
@zhalzel
5 жыл бұрын
Total speculation: what if he sizes up in his lead shoes, so they're just a bit more tolerable for long routes?
How hard are competition routes in lead?
@stiandahl0649
5 жыл бұрын
fucking hard!
@dmm4133
5 жыл бұрын
8c-8c+
@moppelfrosch5727
5 жыл бұрын
@@dmm4133 how do you know? Have you climbed one?
@naudsluis3712
5 жыл бұрын
most of the time its a hard 8 , so like 8b to 8c, not in the nines because that would be to hard and not in the sevens, because its to easy
@dmm4133
5 жыл бұрын
@@moppelfrosch5727 yes i did
Adm, i got a question. I started climbing and i was really into it. But over the winter I got the fear of falling. Did you ever had this? I would like to know how is it possible to overcome this so I can focus on harder walls again...
@dies4794
5 жыл бұрын
Well I'm not Adam, but I'll try to answer your question anyways. Up until recently I had a massive fear of falling. So much, I did only leadclimbing on easy routes, even though I could have easily climbed much harder routes. I overcame my fear by constistency. Consistency of intentionally falling when lead climbing on overhanging easy routes in the gym. I practiced whenever I was there, right at the beginning of the session. Eventually I would do falls of up to 7 m without hesitation, but I started with maybe half meter falls end gradually went up. Then I moved on to practicing the same falls on more vertical terrain. This physical approach really helped me. But I did mental training as well. One thing that really helped me was a book called "Fear!: Extreme Athletes on How to Reach Your Highest Goals and Overcome Stress and Self Doubt" by Roanne van Hoorst, which features interviews with top climbers and other athletes. Internalizing their methods of overcoming fear really helped me a lot. Whenever I am now in a, what I think of as critical situation on the wall, I think of their mantras. Maybe this will help you as well!
@karoolajna28
5 жыл бұрын
@@dies4794 I love this book, it helped me a lot. I took the same approach to falling as you did - I was falling every time I was at the climbing tym. At first it was hard for me to "fall" when i was even slightly above the clip and i was hanging in one spot for a few minutes trying to force myself to do it ;) But then I realised there's nothing to be afraid of. Plus, getting as a climber helps to. As you feel more comfortable on more difficult routs toproping, you will naturally start leading them
where do I sign to have Adam psyching me up?
I don´t wanna be a smartass or something like that, I go up 3 flights of stairs and I want to die but isn´t the right foot at 1:03 on another route so it actually wouldn´t count? Please correct me if I´m wrong. And as always great video!!!
@iamfeejerz7705
5 жыл бұрын
His right foot is flagging. It's just extended to get the best body position. Technically he is dabbing (making contact with a hold intended for a different route), but hes not actually pushing off any of those holds.
@ichbindoofhihi1
5 жыл бұрын
okay so it is not about touching it?
@freddiemercury6808
5 жыл бұрын
@@ichbindoofhihi1 It doesn't really matter in a training session, he would have put his foot there whether that hold was there or not, and in a competition the hold would not be there, as there will only be one route on the wall.
@haearnhammer3733
5 жыл бұрын
@@ichbindoofhihi1 It rarely matters in competitions where routes are clearly separated, and if there is any doubt climbers will usually be told about what to avoid from the organisers (although things like this can sometimes happen.. gripped.com/indoor-climbing/adam-ondra-talks-sean-mccolls-penalties/
@ichbindoofhihi1
5 жыл бұрын
Oh okay thank you guys 👌🏼
SI PUDIERAN PONER SUBTÍTULOS EN ESPAÑOL SE AGRADECERIA MUCHO
2:25 what kind of bird is that?
@peaubeige8080
4 жыл бұрын
lol
Let’s keep it at 0 dislikes!!!!
@RedundantComments
5 жыл бұрын
Had to dislike, I don't like climbing.
@swan_7073
5 жыл бұрын
@@RedundantComments Who cares
@arkhust6775
5 жыл бұрын
Why do you watch climbing videos then? O.o
@nickkendall3764
5 жыл бұрын
@@RedundantComments had to dislike dont like your comment .....dick
In your training day video you were training endurance. Did you not do this regularly or did you do it with a smaller number of moves? Because you are complaining about this „painful“ first leadsession, but if you would have trained endurance before it shouldn‘t be like this🤔
@khakicam5400
5 жыл бұрын
Maybe he's trying to mess with competitors' training approaches and that was a splice of 20 climbs
+Escuse me, Peter Parker? -Not, Adam Ondra
Hello would you like climd un Vitry le François
All the volumes nowadays are killing the wrists
@dominicmalilay4293
5 жыл бұрын
Fuck modern bouldering!
Stretching routine pls? :)
Please... use subtitles
5:23, your forearms are so big that they look almost out of proportion
@ctogive
5 жыл бұрын
Lol yeah came her to say that. the size of those forearms is absolutely nuts
@Triggerboy78
5 жыл бұрын
the size of the forearms of pro-climbers are often "out of proportion" since the amount of needed forearm strength and endurance is much higher than in the biceps and triceps. In this particular situation though, he presses with his knees against his forearms so they look even bigger ;)
@upgradeiself1603
5 жыл бұрын
camera angle
@leoingson
5 жыл бұрын
Freshly pumped.
przyjedź na elewator do gdańska tam intuicja dostaje pierdolca ;P
I don’t know dick about lead.
Dab right foot 1:04
I am VERY surprised that you STILL use TWO arms, when training. Haven't you yet notified that in Tokyo you'll bear a handicap? The olympic regulations clearly state: "Differently from ALL other climbers, Mr Ondra is allowed to use only one arm".
@nickkendall3764
5 жыл бұрын
Best comment ever .hes guna win for sure at worst a second .
His gf reminds me of myself and my bf except I’m probably 15 lbs thinner than her and my bf is probably 15 lbs heavier than Adam.
please can you greet me
sry for the wristpain, but you should eat more fruits and vegtebales RAW!!! cooking destroys your body! you will never have any wristpain again if you stop cooking your food my friend. love you
@zhalzel
5 жыл бұрын
Lolwut
@joshnguyen2144
5 жыл бұрын
Lol my dude what? No
@LPFan33
5 жыл бұрын
become raw vegan if you want to suffer serious health issues
@Benkkuful
5 жыл бұрын
Brainwashed extremist.
@j.gonzalez2543
5 жыл бұрын
yeah and stop bathing or showering, that shit destroy our skin