BEYOND FOCUS 3/4 | Brutal Training Effort Is Not Everything | Adam Ondra

Спорт

My training routine for the first Olympics ever? Literally hardcore! Bouldering, lead climbing, speed - I went full throttle. Everything needs to be precisely planned and executed. There's no time to pick up the crumbs. You need to grab a big bite. However, an unexpected event could change everything. The Olympic Games were postponed by one year. And even that wasn't the only unpleasant surprise.
Watch the third part of the BEYOND FOCUS series - 2 years journey onto the Olympics stage
Check out the full story at adamondra.com/beyond-focus ⚡
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:06 - Speed climbing training routine
01:45 - Petr Klofáč - Adam's coach about speed climbing
02:06 - How can speed climbing be trained by a speed climber beginner like me?
04:06 - The Olympic Games were postponed by one year
05:05 - The modern bouldering
07:05 - Outdoor climbing training
07:45 - Petr Klofáč talks about physiotherapist Gabriela Vrablíková great work
09:03 - Lead climbing training
10:37 - The second unpleasant surprise
15:04 - Back in the game
ENGLISH SUBTITLES ARE AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
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Have you seen this video of mine ?!
• Adam Ondra #47: The Be...
STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED & EDITED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
LACO KORBEL
ADAM LIGOCKI
PRODUCTION
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
JAN VERNER
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Diverse Music - Satellite
Elizabells - Your Android Majesty
Joseph - The Runners
© 2021 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
#BEYONDFOCUS #adamondra #climbing #blackdiamond ‪@BlackDiamondEquipmentLtd‬ ​

Пікірлер: 92

  • @alexbarcovsky4319
    @alexbarcovsky43192 жыл бұрын

    13:42 every doctor ever when someone asks them if they can get back to training: PFFFFFFFT

  • @vladimirsvinin7083
    @vladimirsvinin70832 жыл бұрын

    9:14 when you're trying to visualize modern style triple jump double paddle toe hook catch problem

  • @BiggieChungulus

    @BiggieChungulus

    2 жыл бұрын

    good comment

  • @WilsonRidge
    @WilsonRidge2 жыл бұрын

    It's funny that he has not so great running form. Watching elite athletes do things that aren't directly their sport is so awesome

  • @BiggieChungulus

    @BiggieChungulus

    2 жыл бұрын

    despite that he was pretty damn fast tbh

  • @toladamatanou3134
    @toladamatanou31342 жыл бұрын

    Adam is a gentleman, sharing his process and struggles so the next generation will have all the tools they need to compete at the highest level. Hodně štěstí!

  • @gadi4824
    @gadi48242 жыл бұрын

    First you hit the Like button and then you continue to watch another fascinating show from the GOAT of climbing. Thank you Adam.

  • @middle-agedclimber
    @middle-agedclimber2 жыл бұрын

    Adam does so many thing beyond "climbing training" it blows my mind... Strange physio, yoga, running, psyche training & visualisation, balet, Jesus...

  • @viniciuscollaco

    @viniciuscollaco

    2 жыл бұрын

    ballet was 1st April, not really a thing

  • @BiggieChungulus

    @BiggieChungulus

    2 жыл бұрын

    yooo I've considered ballet myself, it makes sense, think about it

  • @fagyu7502
    @fagyu75022 жыл бұрын

    Anytime I watch his videos, I can't imagine what his knees are made of, when he jumped off the bar with 60kilos extra, I really felt that

  • @bastian6173

    @bastian6173

    2 жыл бұрын

    That's what you get when you have great genetics + start training at a very, very young age.

  • @Mike-oz4cv

    @Mike-oz4cv

    2 жыл бұрын

    Not to mention his biceps. The way he jerked on the bar with twice his body weight attached … I’m getting biceps tendonitis just from normal, slow, controlled pull ups …

  • @haydendakin6583

    @haydendakin6583

    2 жыл бұрын

    I’ve been climbing for 4yrs can do +60kg pull up I weigh 65ish only climb 7B/7C

  • @levihm768

    @levihm768

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@haydendakin6583 ?

  • @user-oe7yx2qi3f
    @user-oe7yx2qi3f2 жыл бұрын

    What a great documentary film! watched in one breath

  • @RoadtoV11
    @RoadtoV112 жыл бұрын

    Amazing insight to what is like to train physically and mentally as a professional athlete! Another great episode!

  • @tobbelajs
    @tobbelajs2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you for your content. It is amazing and really gives me such a cool, close view of your climbing life. I love it!

  • @PamStucky
    @PamStucky2 жыл бұрын

    Loving this series. Incredible to see the intensity of the training!

  • @fredericp64
    @fredericp642 жыл бұрын

    Watching Adam Ondra videos are absolute bliss! Thank you so much!

  • @vladxd6652
    @vladxd66522 жыл бұрын

    thanks for making videos you inspired me go climbing

  • @digicard1870
    @digicard18702 жыл бұрын

    Very good work! Keep it up.

  • @DefineStrength
    @DefineStrength2 жыл бұрын

    these are pretty awesome Adam

  • @Mayday4u
    @Mayday4u2 жыл бұрын

    The series somehow gives the impression that most of the preparation was about speed and that this discipline was nagging Ondra the whole time. I hope he was more positive during the preparation and loved his boulder/lead training.

  • @mrthirty1139
    @mrthirty11392 жыл бұрын

    Great white Ondra isn't real, he can't hurt you Great white Ondra: 9:14

  • @ericwood319
    @ericwood3192 жыл бұрын

    love Adam

  • @Claire-xb3vw
    @Claire-xb3vw2 жыл бұрын

    I was glad to hear Adam say in the last video that he enjoyed the new challenge of speed training but I'm super happy that it's not going to be part of the Paris 2024 format!

  • @stefandesu

    @stefandesu

    2 жыл бұрын

    Good to know that they changed that! Next time I'll remember to watch the competition; I completely forgot to watch it this summer. 😅

  • @santiagoizquierdotort6659
    @santiagoizquierdotort66592 жыл бұрын

    9:56 Adam says "the individual moves (in lead climbing) are not so hard". 10:01 Adam proceeds to grab a really tiny crimp. What a beast! Thanks for the video!

  • @arthurlux1975
    @arthurlux19752 жыл бұрын

    Hi Adam, thx for all the insight. Always motivating to watch your videos.

  • @Robert_McGarry_Poems
    @Robert_McGarry_Poems2 жыл бұрын

    Looking good!

  • @hbr9427
    @hbr94272 жыл бұрын

    Big love from Portugal!

  • @callmetarif
    @callmetarif2 жыл бұрын

    These inviews are amazing

  • @hermitsem
    @hermitsem2 жыл бұрын

    Hey guys, at this moment kzread.info/dash/bejne/Yqyss8yKf9XfaLQ.html I can see a bolt steaking out from the wall of Adam's home crag. Couple years ago there was an incident in Frankenjura, when such bolt got broken and someone got badly injured. The reason was that it was steaking out from the wall(bolted incorrectly), it got a micro crack and broke eventually when loaded. Please consider rebolting, I can see many other bolts in that wall are steaking out as well...

  • @miroz5824

    @miroz5824

    2 жыл бұрын

    But you do realize that that bolt is not more than 2.5 meters above the ground? :D

  • @hermitsem

    @hermitsem

    2 жыл бұрын

    ​@@miroz5824 It is not just about this certain bolt(even though falling from 2.5 meters unexpectedly is also not fun as well as from the next bolt above, which is steaking out as well), it is more about rising awareness, cause someone who has bolted this wall probably installed some more bolts incorrectly. Just sharing the lesson, which we have learned from Franken recently.

  • @miroz5824

    @miroz5824

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@hermitsem Sure, I completely agree but... This topic alongside the history of this particular crag makes it for a really far fetching and broad discussion which wouldn't be fruitful to discuss here. I just say this: Not all crags are Frankenjura and for this particular crag, there are routes that are being climbed using pitons still. I hope not all crags end up over-bolted as Frankenjura mostly is. Moreover, local context matters as well.

  • @Mike-oz4cv

    @Mike-oz4cv

    2 жыл бұрын

    Those are big bolts. I think it’s perfectly fine if there is enough length embedded in the rock.

  • @hiems4012
    @hiems40122 жыл бұрын

    Que grande 👏

  • @letterZach
    @letterZach2 жыл бұрын

    Great to see Rishat!

  • @julianpardo4676
    @julianpardo46762 жыл бұрын

    Kind of off topic but Adam if you’re answering these comments, are you or would you ever plan a trip to the US to do all these hard test piece boulders that jimmy Webb and Daniel woods have been doing? Would be sooooo awesome to see you crushing out here

  • @rubricalchunk1831
    @rubricalchunk18312 жыл бұрын

    I actually love that you don't subtitle the non English parts as it reminds me that you do almost all of your content in a second language, which I'm very lucky enough to have as my first.... But I'd love to know what your coach was saying, especially for such a huge event! As always, love the content!

  • @timgroothuis1217

    @timgroothuis1217

    2 жыл бұрын

    You can turn the caption on and it translates everything to English for you

  • @rubricalchunk1831

    @rubricalchunk1831

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@timgroothuis1217 ha, no way! Pro tip thanks!

  • @gubatron
    @gubatron2 жыл бұрын

    I've a mad crush on that hot fit Physical Therapy trainer of his

  • @ExecutionSommaire

    @ExecutionSommaire

    2 жыл бұрын

    she's perfect

  • @maurocasadio6244
    @maurocasadio62442 жыл бұрын

    Te amo ondra

  • @unnamnedspeaks8882
    @unnamnedspeaks88822 жыл бұрын

    Nice to be first, good video!

  • @MythAvatar
    @MythAvatar2 жыл бұрын

    1:10 The face of speed.

  • @timespaice
    @timespaice2 жыл бұрын

    Wish someday Ondra will develop his own new climbing route.

  • @johnangelojohansen1305
    @johnangelojohansen13052 жыл бұрын

    POWAH IN DA LAGS!

  • @DanielTorres-in9pk
    @DanielTorres-in9pk2 жыл бұрын

    14:14 yo... I thought this was dana white

  • @Sp0nge5

    @Sp0nge5

    2 жыл бұрын

    That's THE orthopedic doctor of all top athletes in Czechia. Anyone you can think of went through his hands.

  • @patrikjahoda9774

    @patrikjahoda9774

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@Sp0nge5 I did go through his hands as well! (Ended up being 4th in the paralympics, fuck me lol)

  • @paulmitchell5349
    @paulmitchell53492 жыл бұрын

    Try Tai Chi horse stance for 30 minutes. Slow strength can often translate into explosive power.

  • @ilak19902000
    @ilak199020002 жыл бұрын

    Note for the editor: could you please add translation subtitle for the non-english parts? for the people who have the cc off all the times its just strange to see another language with no subtitles :/

  • @henripoulet1740
    @henripoulet17402 жыл бұрын

    Can you guys tells us more about the climbing pirate video plzzzz ???

  • @leoingson
    @leoingson2 жыл бұрын

    0:50 Why only 90sec rest inbetween the uphill sprints? It's not about HiiT-type endurance, but explosive strength?

  • @josefzocek9585

    @josefzocek9585

    2 жыл бұрын

    agree.. 3-5 minutes are more accurate

  • @maurocasadio6244
    @maurocasadio62442 жыл бұрын

    God

  • @joshyaash
    @joshyaash2 жыл бұрын

    God, getting injured like that is gut-wrenching. Obviously my experience is nowhere near as heartbreaking as getting injured just before the OLYMPICS, but still sucks having to stop doing what you love because you made a foolish mistake. It's so scary thinking that if the healing process does not work out that you will never again be able to do the things that you want to do.

  • @gnaagren
    @gnaagren2 жыл бұрын

    I wish there were subtitles. I speak enough Czech to order a beer, but I don't understand any of that.

  • @PrecisionRifleGroup
    @PrecisionRifleGroup2 жыл бұрын

    Funny to hear Adam refer to himself as a beginner. 😂

  • @giannisac1978
    @giannisac19782 жыл бұрын

    HI, I have a silly question: Do you think that rock climbing and that kind of "ninja warrior" training could be mixed together to develop in both fields?

  • @saulsarry

    @saulsarry

    2 жыл бұрын

    Yeah. A lot of the skills are transferable

  • @gerollacc
    @gerollacc2 жыл бұрын

    Having subtitles would be helpful for non czech-speakers :)

  • @phoenix9531
    @phoenix95312 жыл бұрын

    "So how did it go in the hospital" "If you ask something like that we are gonna punch you dude" Thats a weird response from that other guy

  • @marekryznar4138
    @marekryznar41382 жыл бұрын

    3:00 - Wau I can do pull-ups like Adam Ondra!!! Wau ......... ok, without the additional weight but ... who cares. :D

  • @paulwolf3302
    @paulwolf33022 жыл бұрын

    Olympic speed climbing is just ridiculous.

  • @parkourpappa3195
    @parkourpappa31952 жыл бұрын

    How could one not correct that strap at 15:00 ? Even if wearing the mask just for the elevator shot..

  • @ChocolatTherapy
    @ChocolatTherapy2 жыл бұрын

    from what i've watched now it seems that all preparation was focused mainly on speed and how annoying and frustrating that was for him and how bad/beginner he was at it. i really hope he enjoyed the rest of the training more, and would've loved to watch more preparation and training for the other disciplines too.

  • @orikhrodgar5080
    @orikhrodgar50802 жыл бұрын

    4:40

  • @wolftree9668
    @wolftree96682 жыл бұрын

    I think that 5 minutes limit for one try would be better IMO, from viewer point too. Curent format is too fast.

  • @leeevans6213
    @leeevans62132 жыл бұрын

    I think it’s stupid having speedclimbing in Olympics it’s wrong you have to do this as the best climber in the world . They don’t do this for running at least spilt it all up . Don’t see 100m runner doing marathons

  • @ripgnar4352
    @ripgnar43522 жыл бұрын

    subtitles would be great loll

  • @foivosanargyros2787
    @foivosanargyros27872 жыл бұрын

    pls keep doing competition climbing you are the best

  • @Landolini

    @Landolini

    2 жыл бұрын

    No pls focus on rock climbing ;)

  • @Schyluer
    @Schyluer2 жыл бұрын

    Adams body is made to climb, not speed climb... It shows the dedication he has. I would imagine the stress on his body of training for something opposite of his genetics damaged his body. Training speed at a certain point probably wasn't healthy for him. It is WACK that the worlds best climber had to learn some different discipline that is not really climbing at all.

  • @mauricevandenhirtz9520
    @mauricevandenhirtz95202 жыл бұрын

    I just hit 50kg pull up so I really thought ondra would do like 70kg ones atleast. Feels weird to be actually really close to him in that one

  • @conserve_climber
    @conserve_climber2 жыл бұрын

    Adam runs like a professional "climber"...ouch

  • @ivanmoldeslopez5780
    @ivanmoldeslopez57802 жыл бұрын

    Did you guys realise there is this weird white dust everywhere? Pretty suspicious ¬¬

  • @lastsiddhartha
    @lastsiddhartha2 жыл бұрын

    mask fetishism

  • @miroz5824

    @miroz5824

    2 жыл бұрын

    Nothing buddhist about your comment my man

  • @vengal6251
    @vengal62512 жыл бұрын

    ondra trained to much speed. Anybody agrees?

  • @TheSoteriologist
    @TheSoteriologist2 жыл бұрын

    I find it deplorable that Adam stooped to that just in order to compete in the "Olympics". If I were the world's best climber, if _these_ are the conditions on olympic competitions, I would have just waved off.

  • @skyex5047

    @skyex5047

    2 жыл бұрын

    That was the first reaction by quite a few top climbers upon learning the format. But in the end they decided to participate.

  • @vincentvega8132
    @vincentvega81322 жыл бұрын

    Adam you great bolder, but your running like a pinokio. Get sprint teacher. That's help you to up coordinate, easy move and skills.

  • @MineJocoko
    @MineJocoko2 жыл бұрын

    Get the forced english subtitles with czech pls. Its really annoying to pause all the time to turn on youtube subtitles

  • @syindrome

    @syindrome

    2 жыл бұрын

    Press 'c' on keyboard

  • @MineJocoko

    @MineJocoko

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@syindrome perfect advice for tablet :)

  • @jrisner6535

    @jrisner6535

    2 жыл бұрын

    You just need to do it once

  • @syindrome

    @syindrome

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@MineJocoko ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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