BEYOND FOCUS 3/4 | Brutal Training Effort Is Not Everything | Adam Ondra
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My training routine for the first Olympics ever? Literally hardcore! Bouldering, lead climbing, speed - I went full throttle. Everything needs to be precisely planned and executed. There's no time to pick up the crumbs. You need to grab a big bite. However, an unexpected event could change everything. The Olympic Games were postponed by one year. And even that wasn't the only unpleasant surprise.
Watch the third part of the BEYOND FOCUS series - 2 years journey onto the Olympics stage
Check out the full story at adamondra.com/beyond-focus ⚡
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro
00:06 - Speed climbing training routine
01:45 - Petr Klofáč - Adam's coach about speed climbing
02:06 - How can speed climbing be trained by a speed climber beginner like me?
04:06 - The Olympic Games were postponed by one year
05:05 - The modern bouldering
07:05 - Outdoor climbing training
07:45 - Petr Klofáč talks about physiotherapist Gabriela Vrablíková great work
09:03 - Lead climbing training
10:37 - The second unpleasant surprise
15:04 - Back in the game
ENGLISH SUBTITLES ARE AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
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STORY BY
ADAM ONDRA
DIRECTED & EDITED BY
LACO KORBEL
CAMERA
PAVEL KLEMENT
LACO KORBEL
ADAM LIGOCKI
PRODUCTION
KATEŘINA KUŘÁTKOVÁ
JAN VERNER
JAKUB PÍNA
SUBTITLES BY
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
EXECUTIVE PRODUCER
PAVEL BLAŽEK
SONGLIST
Diverse Music - Satellite
Elizabells - Your Android Majesty
Joseph - The Runners
© 2021 AO PRODUCTION S.R.O.
#BEYONDFOCUS #adamondra #climbing #blackdiamond @BlackDiamondEquipmentLtd
Пікірлер: 92
13:42 every doctor ever when someone asks them if they can get back to training: PFFFFFFFT
9:14 when you're trying to visualize modern style triple jump double paddle toe hook catch problem
@BiggieChungulus
2 жыл бұрын
good comment
It's funny that he has not so great running form. Watching elite athletes do things that aren't directly their sport is so awesome
@BiggieChungulus
2 жыл бұрын
despite that he was pretty damn fast tbh
Adam is a gentleman, sharing his process and struggles so the next generation will have all the tools they need to compete at the highest level. Hodně štěstí!
First you hit the Like button and then you continue to watch another fascinating show from the GOAT of climbing. Thank you Adam.
Adam does so many thing beyond "climbing training" it blows my mind... Strange physio, yoga, running, psyche training & visualisation, balet, Jesus...
@viniciuscollaco
2 жыл бұрын
ballet was 1st April, not really a thing
@BiggieChungulus
2 жыл бұрын
yooo I've considered ballet myself, it makes sense, think about it
Anytime I watch his videos, I can't imagine what his knees are made of, when he jumped off the bar with 60kilos extra, I really felt that
@bastian6173
2 жыл бұрын
That's what you get when you have great genetics + start training at a very, very young age.
@Mike-oz4cv
2 жыл бұрын
Not to mention his biceps. The way he jerked on the bar with twice his body weight attached … I’m getting biceps tendonitis just from normal, slow, controlled pull ups …
@haydendakin6583
2 жыл бұрын
I’ve been climbing for 4yrs can do +60kg pull up I weigh 65ish only climb 7B/7C
@levihm768
2 жыл бұрын
@@haydendakin6583 ?
What a great documentary film! watched in one breath
Amazing insight to what is like to train physically and mentally as a professional athlete! Another great episode!
Thank you for your content. It is amazing and really gives me such a cool, close view of your climbing life. I love it!
Loving this series. Incredible to see the intensity of the training!
Watching Adam Ondra videos are absolute bliss! Thank you so much!
thanks for making videos you inspired me go climbing
Very good work! Keep it up.
these are pretty awesome Adam
The series somehow gives the impression that most of the preparation was about speed and that this discipline was nagging Ondra the whole time. I hope he was more positive during the preparation and loved his boulder/lead training.
Great white Ondra isn't real, he can't hurt you Great white Ondra: 9:14
love Adam
I was glad to hear Adam say in the last video that he enjoyed the new challenge of speed training but I'm super happy that it's not going to be part of the Paris 2024 format!
@stefandesu
2 жыл бұрын
Good to know that they changed that! Next time I'll remember to watch the competition; I completely forgot to watch it this summer. 😅
9:56 Adam says "the individual moves (in lead climbing) are not so hard". 10:01 Adam proceeds to grab a really tiny crimp. What a beast! Thanks for the video!
Hi Adam, thx for all the insight. Always motivating to watch your videos.
Looking good!
Big love from Portugal!
These inviews are amazing
Hey guys, at this moment kzread.info/dash/bejne/Yqyss8yKf9XfaLQ.html I can see a bolt steaking out from the wall of Adam's home crag. Couple years ago there was an incident in Frankenjura, when such bolt got broken and someone got badly injured. The reason was that it was steaking out from the wall(bolted incorrectly), it got a micro crack and broke eventually when loaded. Please consider rebolting, I can see many other bolts in that wall are steaking out as well...
@miroz5824
2 жыл бұрын
But you do realize that that bolt is not more than 2.5 meters above the ground? :D
@hermitsem
2 жыл бұрын
@@miroz5824 It is not just about this certain bolt(even though falling from 2.5 meters unexpectedly is also not fun as well as from the next bolt above, which is steaking out as well), it is more about rising awareness, cause someone who has bolted this wall probably installed some more bolts incorrectly. Just sharing the lesson, which we have learned from Franken recently.
@miroz5824
2 жыл бұрын
@@hermitsem Sure, I completely agree but... This topic alongside the history of this particular crag makes it for a really far fetching and broad discussion which wouldn't be fruitful to discuss here. I just say this: Not all crags are Frankenjura and for this particular crag, there are routes that are being climbed using pitons still. I hope not all crags end up over-bolted as Frankenjura mostly is. Moreover, local context matters as well.
@Mike-oz4cv
2 жыл бұрын
Those are big bolts. I think it’s perfectly fine if there is enough length embedded in the rock.
Que grande 👏
Great to see Rishat!
Kind of off topic but Adam if you’re answering these comments, are you or would you ever plan a trip to the US to do all these hard test piece boulders that jimmy Webb and Daniel woods have been doing? Would be sooooo awesome to see you crushing out here
I actually love that you don't subtitle the non English parts as it reminds me that you do almost all of your content in a second language, which I'm very lucky enough to have as my first.... But I'd love to know what your coach was saying, especially for such a huge event! As always, love the content!
@timgroothuis1217
2 жыл бұрын
You can turn the caption on and it translates everything to English for you
@rubricalchunk1831
2 жыл бұрын
@@timgroothuis1217 ha, no way! Pro tip thanks!
I've a mad crush on that hot fit Physical Therapy trainer of his
@ExecutionSommaire
2 жыл бұрын
she's perfect
Te amo ondra
Nice to be first, good video!
1:10 The face of speed.
Wish someday Ondra will develop his own new climbing route.
POWAH IN DA LAGS!
14:14 yo... I thought this was dana white
@Sp0nge5
2 жыл бұрын
That's THE orthopedic doctor of all top athletes in Czechia. Anyone you can think of went through his hands.
@patrikjahoda9774
2 жыл бұрын
@@Sp0nge5 I did go through his hands as well! (Ended up being 4th in the paralympics, fuck me lol)
Try Tai Chi horse stance for 30 minutes. Slow strength can often translate into explosive power.
Note for the editor: could you please add translation subtitle for the non-english parts? for the people who have the cc off all the times its just strange to see another language with no subtitles :/
Can you guys tells us more about the climbing pirate video plzzzz ???
0:50 Why only 90sec rest inbetween the uphill sprints? It's not about HiiT-type endurance, but explosive strength?
@josefzocek9585
2 жыл бұрын
agree.. 3-5 minutes are more accurate
God
God, getting injured like that is gut-wrenching. Obviously my experience is nowhere near as heartbreaking as getting injured just before the OLYMPICS, but still sucks having to stop doing what you love because you made a foolish mistake. It's so scary thinking that if the healing process does not work out that you will never again be able to do the things that you want to do.
I wish there were subtitles. I speak enough Czech to order a beer, but I don't understand any of that.
Funny to hear Adam refer to himself as a beginner. 😂
HI, I have a silly question: Do you think that rock climbing and that kind of "ninja warrior" training could be mixed together to develop in both fields?
@saulsarry
2 жыл бұрын
Yeah. A lot of the skills are transferable
Having subtitles would be helpful for non czech-speakers :)
"So how did it go in the hospital" "If you ask something like that we are gonna punch you dude" Thats a weird response from that other guy
3:00 - Wau I can do pull-ups like Adam Ondra!!! Wau ......... ok, without the additional weight but ... who cares. :D
Olympic speed climbing is just ridiculous.
How could one not correct that strap at 15:00 ? Even if wearing the mask just for the elevator shot..
from what i've watched now it seems that all preparation was focused mainly on speed and how annoying and frustrating that was for him and how bad/beginner he was at it. i really hope he enjoyed the rest of the training more, and would've loved to watch more preparation and training for the other disciplines too.
4:40
I think that 5 minutes limit for one try would be better IMO, from viewer point too. Curent format is too fast.
I think it’s stupid having speedclimbing in Olympics it’s wrong you have to do this as the best climber in the world . They don’t do this for running at least spilt it all up . Don’t see 100m runner doing marathons
subtitles would be great loll
pls keep doing competition climbing you are the best
@Landolini
2 жыл бұрын
No pls focus on rock climbing ;)
Adams body is made to climb, not speed climb... It shows the dedication he has. I would imagine the stress on his body of training for something opposite of his genetics damaged his body. Training speed at a certain point probably wasn't healthy for him. It is WACK that the worlds best climber had to learn some different discipline that is not really climbing at all.
I just hit 50kg pull up so I really thought ondra would do like 70kg ones atleast. Feels weird to be actually really close to him in that one
Adam runs like a professional "climber"...ouch
Did you guys realise there is this weird white dust everywhere? Pretty suspicious ¬¬
mask fetishism
@miroz5824
2 жыл бұрын
Nothing buddhist about your comment my man
ondra trained to much speed. Anybody agrees?
I find it deplorable that Adam stooped to that just in order to compete in the "Olympics". If I were the world's best climber, if _these_ are the conditions on olympic competitions, I would have just waved off.
@skyex5047
2 жыл бұрын
That was the first reaction by quite a few top climbers upon learning the format. But in the end they decided to participate.
Adam you great bolder, but your running like a pinokio. Get sprint teacher. That's help you to up coordinate, easy move and skills.
Get the forced english subtitles with czech pls. Its really annoying to pause all the time to turn on youtube subtitles
@syindrome
2 жыл бұрын
Press 'c' on keyboard
@MineJocoko
2 жыл бұрын
@@syindrome perfect advice for tablet :)
@jrisner6535
2 жыл бұрын
You just need to do it once
@syindrome
2 жыл бұрын
@@MineJocoko ¯\_(ツ)_/¯