I'LL help you out a bit., The new CPS units are faulty, all of them made by Ford and International for the 7.3L. The Gray Ford and the Dar Blue IH Units. They have a cheap off-set hall sensor in them and are almost 3/16" off center. So not only do they have a weak hall sensor, they are throwing off the timing and eating fuel making high EGT's. I posted a photo of the CPS cut open so you can see them. The Borg Warner is the only new After-market that has a correct centered hall Sensor and I would recommend that one if you cannot find an old Black CPS. They have a 10MM Single Bolt that is holding the CPS in place, first you use dielectric grease and lube just the o-ring on the CPS, clean the inside of the hole opening with a clean shop towel. Then you torque it at 18 ft. lbs.. As the Flywheel spins the CPS counts the largest tooth and the smallest tooth on the flywheel. The CPS needs to count the wheel each time it spins, so imagine the flywheel spinning at 60 MPH, with a faulty CPS it's sending the ECM the wrong info eating fuel. You want to find the strongest CPS hall sensor you can find. You can take an ohms meter and touch 2 of the 3 pins on a CPS and get a reading between 3.5 ohms (low side) and 4.4 ohms (High Side). I have the old Black CPS units in my trucks, I have a 4.4 ohms or a strong magnetic hall sensor, so I know my CPS is counting the teeth on the flywheel and giving true readings. Notice the off-set sensor. Both the Ford and the IH are the same cheap Asian made Sensor. The hall Sensor in the Borg Warner is the correct centered Asian made, not as good as the old Black USA made sensors, but the best you can buy today. I will post a pic of the B/W CPS cut open so you can see the hall sensor exposed, it's almost 3/8" round.

Good video and comments. Right on time. Thanks.

I just got a grey sensor from a dealer in FL, replaced the original and low and behold it Failed right from the get-go. There were shims included with the sensor and I added the first two and again nothing, removed one shim and still no start. Finally took off both shims and got the same sad results so, I call O'Reily Auto parts and for around $25.00 got the BW sensor "Black" and with my fingers crossed and refrained from thinking negative it fired right up and ran great. I will test it with a short trip too see if the "Hick-up and Shutdown" happens again. If not and the truck continues to run, I will be very happy and will box up the one from FL for a refund.

update: OEM, motorcraft unit is 25.99 and is black sensor body, silver mounting tab and has been found far more reliable than the purple and grey unitbtw, powerstrokes ARE international engines

hey that was cool because last time i had to have that fix it coast me about 300 bucks at the shop. now i do most of my own work.

Hey so my CPS just went out on mine, using your video to change it out (THANKS!) But without even thinking, I bought a BWD one, how long did yours last and did you have any of the supposed problems?

Trey i see you posted this vid in febuary so hows your BW holdin up now? I need a new cps and im leaning towards BW

I went through a similar issue and it turned out to be the pigtail electrical connection and not the CPS so check your wiring. I had bought a Borg Warner CPS and decided to install it anyway. Turned out to be bad. Idled and ran OK under very light acceleration, but cut out if you tried to do anything more. Put the old one back in and have had no issues since.

How long did the borgwarner cps end up lasting and did you have any of the issues people claimed?

@Trey Spooner I have a question, I have a 1996 7.3, i replaced the cps because the truck was running really rough and stalling etc, I replaced it with an autozone one and 2 weeks later I was driving and the truck died, I then replaced it with a ford one and the truck is skipping hard, but only when I turn right and accelerate any ideas? please help!!

How's the Borg Warner one holding up?

OEM Ford CPS units on E-bay, in Ford sealed packaging.. $26.

So is that in that same place as my 1992 7.3 cps would be?

how long do they usually last

Looking for help, recommendations, or resources. I have a Ford 1995 7.3 F250 manual with 150,000 miles. I have a starting issue. For the most part it is sporadic and happens when I cut off the truck and try to start it again after 10 or 15 minutes. It will turn off but doesn’t start. If I wait about 30 or 40 minutes it usually starts right up. I have had it not start a couple of time (one of which currently now), after sitting a few days. But for the most part it always starts after it sits for a day or more. The last time it didn’t start after sitting for awhile, it just started again a few days later. Any help tracking down the problem would be greatly appreciated.

I cheeped out and got the BWD brand from oreilys and now every time it rains my truck cuts out. But it doesn't rain to often where I live so the sensor runs good with no problems unless it rains and I have to use my wipers.

How did it work??

Just put the BW one in today, and the truck stalled again on me in the middle of main street earlier. But after a minute it started back up. Now it's throwing a code p0122 which to my understanding is either the throttle or pedal position sensor? If that throttle sensor is going bad or shorting, does that mean I possibly replaced the CPS for no reason?

Funny me and my shop went there 3 BW CPS one 2 of them shut off when I use the wipers 1 looped and the OBD 11 wouldn't connect lol Upgraded to some Japanese one forget the name same issues as the other 2.!! Frustrating

A bad CPS will cause the tachometer not to work right.