Hey we are Dan and Shannon. We are Clear Mind an artisan jewellery and casting studio in Peterborough, Ontario focusing on alternative and custom jewellery, and other metal work. Subscribe for castable resin reviews, tutorials, tool reviews, and other videos.
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Want to know what tools we use in our videos: clearmindcasting.com/pages/recommended-tool-list
Shannon & Dan
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Why did you add borax I’m assuming after you poured the metal
What volts and amps are used for cleaning?
lol yeah they will hook you up with someone who casts with the resin, but not for free.
Was the print removed from the mold or did it just melt away ??
Gets removed in the kiln during burnout
Hi , I bought this Arbe pen after broken my previous smaller wax pen, , but this one makes lot of smoke, it’s unbearable… any suggestions? Or it’s the pen ? Thanks
It can smoke a little but it shouldn't be unbearable. Check your temperature setting to make sure that you're not overheating the wax more than you need to. Also consider getting a silicone pad or small piece of wood to help remove wax from the tool as you are learning to use it. Some of the tips that come with the pen can hold a lot of wax at one time. So if its overload and then let to sit that could be causing the higher then normal amount of smoke.
@@ClearMindJewellerythank you 😃
Hello sir! Thanks for all the info! I have a question. Can I print a ring and store it for a long time before casting? Let's say 1 year!
I wouldn’t recommend it. Depending on resin you could experience; Weeping, where the photo-initiator leaches out of the print over time. Over curing due to exposure to sunlight. Leading to deformation. Castables due to their function don’t do well when left for prolonged periods of time. A month is not bad, a year I wouldn’t recommend.
Hey, great videos! Do you sell any of yhe STL's featured in your videos? Both for personal and commercial use.
The vast majority of the models featured in our videos are common .stls you can find on cgtrader or other sites.
Torched crickets did you say then?😂😂
Ultrasonics always sound like a million caged and tormented crickets.
A 3 year old video that I’ve not watched yet. Well I am now.😊 as usual cmj well made video
Im probably gonna get cancer or something because I never wear gloves or a mask. In fact yesterday I had to reach into the bottom of my recently cleaned alcohol bath because my dumb self didnt think about the smaller part Id printed or to just dump the bath into a bucket...
Although prolonged exposure can cause serious ailments, less serious issues such as contact dermatitis (irritation and allergic reaction) can cause the end of your resin printing career and are more likely to occur over a shorter period. Basically your body eventually can't stand to touch the stuff after dealing with so many prolonged exposures. PPE is definitely a good idea
Thank you have learned a lot from you . I have a question what is the use of boric acid in resin casting
I think we mentioned this in our Senertek review and in a few others. Boric Acid is an additive that can be used to harden the investment. This is useful for resins that are known to expand before burning. The issue is that you then have to use a power washer to be able to get into your investment as quenching the flask doesn't even move the investment that much. For most people it's easier to just buy a resin that doesn't need it. You add in about 1% by weight
What is the program that u show us the setting
Thank you for the videos u make and share a lot of information , i bought Phrozen Sonic 8 k s and try to print some jewellery simple models wity Phrozen W 40 using setting by lychee but no success couple of times , do u have some setting to share please
phrozen3d.com/pages/resin-profile We use a lot of the same printing profiles as recommended by Phrozen. Their resins are really soft and need ample supports, almost to the point of over supporting. Due to this softness there W40 and W20 should not be used for delicate models.
Damn I'd love to try this but I just got rid of my rice steamer on a buy nothing group haha
As someone who's just starting to make jewellery and on a budget, would you say Dark at $300 is worth the extra money over Vintage at $160? im using Siraya atm but printing is a headache and im wasting a lot of resin just on failed prints. I have a mars 4 printer.
They’re actually the same price I think the drop-down size option menu is just in a different order so one’s listed at 1 kg as the automatic option and the other is listed at 500 grams. But price per gram is the same.
Broooo im TIRED
🤮🤮🤮
Those are massive! looks like wax...is it possible using any of the resins you review on your channel? I am struggling to cast larger parts using siraya purple and R&R plasticast at the moment.
These are cast in resin. It’s not wax. Siraya tech purple is not meant for large items. I think we may have mentioned that in the review that’s why Siraya made true blue. Although true blue is more difficult to print. The one we’re using in this video is apply lab work cyan. Power resins vintage and blue cast X one also print and cast large relatively well depending on design.
@@ClearMindJewellery thanks for the reply and great videos. I have some X-one on order, looking forward to trying that. My parts are ~3"x3" square, but only ~2mm wall thickness so I thought I could get away with the purple. Are those solid resin or did you print them hollow and then drain and patch? thanks again!
@@newretrorockets we did a pair solid and a pair hollow. We have a small bust sculpture video where we used the method you are describing.
Hello, thanks a lot for the information. Im designing a ventilation system for my kiln. I can duct it outside, but i don’t want to trouble the neighboors with the smell. Im thinking 8inch ventilator and duct but im not sure what would be the ideal filter for a budget. What do you think of those 8inch cylindrical carbon filters sold for indoor hydroponics?
Can you please add your Phrozen Mini8K resin settings to the discription (Maybe always for all tested resins) that would be really helpful.... thanks a lot!
support.powerresins.com/en_US/phrozen-3d-printers-settings/phrozen-sonic-mini-8ks
Hey again, i'm having troubles getting vintage sticking to the build plate of my new Mars Elegoo 4. I have tried: - Releveling. - Curing the power resin primer on buildplate for longer. - Ensuring room temperature is between 25-30 degrees Celsius. - Increasing bottom exposure time and decreasing lift speed. - PTFE lubricant on the FEP before build. Are there any pointers you can add? I am new to 3d printing. Regards, thanks for your help with the rapid burn out specifics, Luke
What is your initial layer exposure and have you tried sanding the build plate if it is not already laser engraved?
@@ClearMindJewellery Hey, the plate is laser engraved. I was running the recommended 48Second initial layer exposure time. I did trial up to 60seconds. The main fix was using the Vogman's resin printed priming plate. This allows for consistent prints now. I do intend to trial/use Monocure3D's Burnout resin which will hopefully have better adhesion. Thanks for all the top tier content, it is greatly helpful and appreciated.
Hello, nice video, what is the setup you put to make this part in the resin printer? The print time, print settings?
Sir muje job chhahiye Varanasi me isi line me
Have you try the elegoo mars 4 ultra?
What kind of income can be made in the jewelry manufacturing industry? I looked online and it seems most manufacturers are in other countries rather than The US. I would like to see some examples of million dollar operations here. I'm in the dental lab industry and it's no longer profitable as it once was, would like to use my skills in jewelry.. is there money making opportunity there? Or mostly just starving artists?
Depends on your skill level, what you make, and whom you make it for. Any business in the jewelry industry can go bankrupt or see several millions in revenue. It depends on if you have the skills to make it happen. Working in gold each project can easily be $5,000-10,000. If you get into bulk silver casting a small order could be $1,000-2,000, a large order well… If you decide to go the foundry direction some shops are doing $60/lb in bronze meaning thousands or hundreds of thousands per project. But again you need to know how to make it happen. You could just as easily buy several thousands of dollars worth of equipment that you then don’t know how to set up and make no profit your first year because you don’t know how to do the workflow. And then then spend the next four years trying to climb out of that debt while building your client list.
how do you make your $$? Do you market and sell jewelry online to the end user OR do you sell to other jewelers who then sell to end user?
Flawless work 👏👏👏
Hey, love your content. Helping very much with printing and casting. Just a quick questions, what are your rapid burn stages out for vintage?
Our rapid burnout is all the same no matter the resin. We will be doing a video on it in the future weyjust heading into conference season so time is limited. Basically ramp gradually, but swiftly to 1350 Fahrenheit allow the items to sit for between 4 to 5 hours and then ramp down to casting temperature. Nothing fancy. We have talked about this in the monicure3d video and a separate burnout vlog.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks mate really appreciate it.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks for that, appreciate the info.
Over my years of experience using Power Resins Dark I can confirm that the prongs will bend after a fresh print. Be warned, after 24+ hours, it becomes far more rigid and will absolutely snap instead of bend. As I'm currently using it with the Pruse SL1 Speed, my burn times are 80 seconds initial and 16 seconds per layer. But you mentioned 30 seconds initial and 6 seconds per layer? Are you sure about these times? Because I would love to get much faster prints, but I don't want to lose quality in the process. Do you think my burn times are too long?
We were using closer to what you have for your settings when we had the regular Prusia SL1 however when we upgraded to the SL1S and did the latest re-review we were able to decrease to what we stated in the review. If you are using slow tilt, having good bed adhesion, and no FEP adhesion the faster settings will be enough.
@@ClearMindJewellery So, I was a little impatient and went ahead to do a print similar to your settings last night. 40 Seconds initial 7 Seconds per layer The results... I was able to reduce a typically 7 hour job down to just under 3 hours with my SL1S using Power Resins Dark. The quality is still exceptionally high as usual. No visible defects at all.
Hi CMC thanks for the feedback and again a well made experiment,test and trials. I’ve got a question if you don’t mind? When your using your printers with bluecast x1v2, do you use a certain release liner for your resin tray or do you use the factory brand for that certain printer? Bluecast recommendations are elegoo’s FEP 2.0 What’s your opinion on this or do you follow suit? Some might say n-fep, acf,fep 2.0 etc are just sales tax tics and they just the same with a different name and colour (acf)😂 I do believe FEP 2.0 by elegoo. Makes a difference. Thank you and can’t wait for your next one. 😊
What matters more in my opinion is thickness. A 0.127 will release better then a 0.15 for example. We have tried the elegoo nFEP, but are running with generic at the moment. It’s cheaper, easier to get, and the “fancy stuff” doesn’t make a large enough difference imo to change over all our printers. If you can get 1.27 nFEP at a decent price and only have the one machine it might be worth experiencing.
Hi thank for your review and the pronunciation of our company is Anti sky,just as Shanan says pronunciation
Hello, would you recomend this printer or elegoo mars 4 ultra (18microns xy) for a small jewelry bussines? Focusin on quality, thanks.
I've really been enjoying your channel. Do you share the print settings you use for testing each resin somewhere in your ecosystem? I know the one printer is a closed system so it uses its own settings. Power Resins doesn't have settings for the Prusa SL1S on its website. We have one at work but wouldn't try a resin without at least a starting point...
01:34
Awesome review 👏
So dope!!
I checked on Bluecast's site for the exposure settings for the X-One V2 to use on my Phrozen Mini 8K and only see the settings for the 4K. Would you mind sharing the settings that you used, I ordered some after seeing your review and want to give it a go. Thanks!
My investment keeps cracking all weeks it been breaking on me
Cracking could be a number of factors from inappropriate mixing, inappropriate amount of water, inappropriate burnout, or inappropriate placement of the items inside your flask. Or Improper calibration of the kiln itself if you haven’t checked it in a while and you’ve replaced any parts.
Hello, your videos are very interesting and teach a lot. I would like to ask a question, do you need to put that yellow wax that you showed in order to UV dry it?
Not sure what you mean by "need to put that yellow wax that you showed din order to UV dry it". EasyCast 400 does need a 30 minute post UV cure for best results.
Thanks for the review, I've been using the WAX and love the print, my Phrozen Mini 8K has no problems with the adhesion either, in fact it is pretty much perfect as it adheres perfectly and the release of the prints is very easy.
The adhesion has greatly improved with the new wave of engrave build plates. Last time we tried it the adhesion issues were silly.
How do you install the filters??
gosh that color is so much easier to see than siraya tech purple
I really hate the purple resins that are only marginally opaque or are really shiny. Makes quality control difficult without specific lighting.
How do you think this compares to Power Resin Vintage? Which would be better for printing details?
id say vintage, and the casting is much better too
Depends on the details. Thin filagree and items that require structure or unique supporting, use vintage. Items that have debossed or embossed details like lettering, use Bluecast XOne.
As a new designer, about to start printing, my first 3-D prints, which is the best resin you do recommend that covers all fields
It’s coming to a point that a lot of resins are getting focused down, as it’s becoming harder to do everything well as more techniques are becoming mainstream (example: finding one resin that can do large prints, print in place trees, and stone setting would be a tremendous undertaking.) However, some resins that cover the most of the gambit would be power resins vintage on the higher end as it can do larger objects, smaller filigree style objects and stone in-place casting, although we have yet to fully test the stone in-place casting capabilities ourselves. A good quality lower budget will be apply lab work cyan as this is an inexpensive workhorse that can do print in place trees, large objects, as well as small detailed objects. Monocure 3D burn away is not bad if you value time above doing larger objects. However, if you have a niche that you specifically work in for your business, I would recommend investigating other resins that are more suited to that niche.
Very cool stuff. What would be your approach to make this ring into many different sizes for casting?
As the rings are made with wax wire it’s simple to make them in multiple sizes when doing the wax work. Doing the resizing post casting would lead to breaking the illusion of the design or a lot of carving work.
what metal you casting brass? silver? gold?- the big pices?
Our large wheats and tunnels or cast and silicon bronze. As are the majority of our tests, as most the items get re-melted after the video has been up for a couple of weeks. The figure featured at the end of this video is cast in sterling silver.
Is there a place where I can get these filagree stl's just to test them on my indutherm? Yes I can buy some from CG trader but does bluecast offer them as test files?
I don’t believe Bluecast has filagree test files although they do have some others.
the engraved signet ring doesn't look too good
hey what is that sprue cutting tool you are using? that thing is badass
It’s an air powered cutter. We will be doing a full video on it soon.
160$ for 500g 😥😥😥😥
😉 Try gold @ $2300 US for 31.1 gm.
cheaper than its competitors. bluecast x10 and power resins dark are $300. $300 is still too much for me but im going to try this as siraya tech isn't really cutting it for me anymore (hard to print and long post print process, it burns out well its just a pain to print).
How many minutes do u use on the Uv light ?
Approximately 10-15 minutes in 60 watt.