Awesome review 👏

I have a b9 printer and would like to try the bluecast x one v2 and was told that the black settings would work. Do you know if that is true or do you have any ideas what to do?

I checked on Bluecast's site for the exposure settings for the X-One V2 to use on my Phrozen Mini 8K and only see the settings for the 4K. Would you mind sharing the settings that you used, I ordered some after seeing your review and want to give it a go. Thanks!

Hi CMC thanks for the feedback and again a well made experiment,test and trials. I’ve got a question if you don’t mind? When your using your printers with bluecast x1v2, do you use a certain release liner for your resin tray or do you use the factory brand for that certain printer? Bluecast recommendations are elegoo’s FEP 2.0 What’s your opinion on this or do you follow suit? Some might say n-fep, acf,fep 2.0 etc are just sales tax tics and they just the same with a different name and colour (acf)😂 I do believe FEP 2.0 by elegoo. Makes a difference. Thank you and can’t wait for your next one. 😊

@ClearMindJewellery

Ай бұрын

What matters more in my opinion is thickness. A 0.127 will release better then a 0.15 for example. We have tried the elegoo nFEP, but are running with generic at the moment. It’s cheaper, easier to get, and the “fancy stuff” doesn’t make a large enough difference imo to change over all our printers. If you can get 1.27 nFEP at a decent price and only have the one machine it might be worth experiencing.

As a new designer, about to start printing, my first 3-D prints, which is the best resin you do recommend that covers all fields

@ClearMindJewellery

Ай бұрын

It’s coming to a point that a lot of resins are getting focused down, as it’s becoming harder to do everything well as more techniques are becoming mainstream (example: finding one resin that can do large prints, print in place trees, and stone setting would be a tremendous undertaking.) However, some resins that cover the most of the gambit would be power resins vintage on the higher end as it can do larger objects, smaller filigree style objects and stone in-place casting, although we have yet to fully test the stone in-place casting capabilities ourselves. A good quality lower budget will be apply lab work cyan as this is an inexpensive workhorse that can do print in place trees, large objects, as well as small detailed objects. Monocure 3D burn away is not bad if you value time above doing larger objects. However, if you have a niche that you specifically work in for your business, I would recommend investigating other resins that are more suited to that niche.

How do you think this compares to Power Resin Vintage? Which would be better for printing details?

@stevenjus2266

Ай бұрын

id say vintage, and the casting is much better too

@ClearMindJewellery

Ай бұрын

Depends on the details. Thin filagree and items that require structure or unique supporting, use vintage. Items that have debossed or embossed details like lettering, use Bluecast XOne.

Can you please take a picture of the 99% alcohol that your using I keep having problems 😭 right now I’m using 99% ipa. I would really appreciate it

@ClearMindJewellery

3 күн бұрын

What are the problems you are having? It shouldn't be a huge deal which brand you are using as long as it's above 90%.

gosh that color is so much easier to see than siraya tech purple

@ClearMindJewellery

Ай бұрын

I really hate the purple resins that are only marginally opaque or are really shiny. Makes quality control difficult without specific lighting.