Welcome to The Northland Workshop! I'm Iain and my goal is to help you become a better woodworker. I will be uploading videos covering everything from full builds to tips for a specific tool. Subscribe to stay up to date on all the goings on in the workshop.
Need to contact me? Email me at [email protected]
Пікірлер
To fix the height of the tool rest put the bolt on the bottom that way you take away the height of the tool rest by putting the bars on the bottom of the pipe ways you add about 1.5" to how the tool rest sits Its upside down the way you have it It also limits the size stock you can use. You have to be smarter then the tool to use it. Ill bet you can use a tool rest off some other lathe too. Like a cast iron one.
See i knew you could do it!
Thanks so much! Great info!
For planing... why not use a sled with the piece shimmed and just slide that along as you slide the rotary planer back and forth???
When you make the table, be sure that the front edge is parallel to the fence for this procedure.
That is very true.
@@TheNorthlandWorkshopIf you had not done so, using a strip attached with biscuits and shims (al can cuttings) will work as remedial procedure.
The term anti-kickback for the RAS pawl does not capture the crux. In ripping with an RAS, the infeed side tends to lift the work and the outfeed side tends to push down on the work. This is opposite in ripping with a TS. Ripping with an RAS in a sense evens out the unpleasantness or risk, whereas in ripping with a TS all those are at the far end. Since one has to reach over for the far end, to pass the work, ripping with the TS is more unpleasant. The RAS pawl is not a splitter; its function is primarily to prevent ejection. The height of the pawl in relation to the work has to be such that ejection is unlikely, not closest to the work. The pawl is not a splitter like a riving knife or separate splitter for the TS. Even though the work is pushed down at the outfeed for the RAS, a splitter, in addition to the pawl, is still quite desirable.
I got a 61 craftsman
can the turret arm saws be squared to the table like the comments instead of squaring the table to the machine like a DeWalt?
really great video, thank you
Glad you liked it!
The more I watch these videos showcasing the many talents of the RAS, the more I realize it may end up being one of the only tools in my shop. My bandsaw being the other. And my lathe. That’s quite a minimalist shop. More room for hand tools. 😄
I see yor pawls in one of your segments. I’m going to make one. 👍🏼
1/4 1/4 1/4 drawer method
How long is the rod you purchased from McMaster Carr?
I want to get a RAS. However, I don't know if I should get a 10 or 12 inch cut. I mainly want to rip 2x4s and 4x4s. I can get either used near me for relatively cheap. I only have a few projects at this time so I didn't want to spend a lot of money on the saw. Thank you for the video. I will have to get a couple blades once I choose a saw. Unfortunately I don't have room for multiple at this time.
Where you been?! Five months and no new videos. Have you quit KZread? I sure hope not!
I was given an old DeWalt radial saw older that what you have, by watching your video you saved me from injury, thank you, I watched all the ads for you to earn a few pennies. Paul
Glad I could help!
I appreciate the time you spent doing your own research, instead of just consuming the research of others. We’ll all benefit from your results. Thank you!
Hi Lain,which blade do you recommend for a B&D RAS 7770-3 to cross cut as well as to rip.I believe a table saw blade for cross cuts is a no go? Here is South Africa we do not have a large selection of circular saw blade,like negative hook angle etc
I see you using a lot of WD-40. I'd head that it can have a tendency to dry joints out over time and it's better to use machine oil over WD-40. Is this correct? I'd appreciate your thoughts.
I haven’t had any negative effects from using WD-40 but I wipe off as much as I can so there really isn’t much left on there.
Is the jig slightly smaller than table top on arm saw
I made it the same size just because I make some really big raised panels so I needed the support. If you’re not making large raised panels you can make it smaller and store the table under the saw.
Hi Lain,what thickness is plywood material for raised panel jig? Would it be 3/4"? Thank you
Yes it is 3/4” but that’s because I had a scrap piece left over from something else. The only part that really needs to be 3/4” plywood for stiffness is the fence. You could make it lighter by making the table out of 1/2” plywood and use 3/4” just for the fence.
I subscribed a while ago and love your simple manner of making projects.Thank you
Thanks!
While you were squaring up the new paneling jig fence, it might have been helpful to use a scrap piece of wood along the perpendicular edge to keep the square in place, rather than use your fingers to keep checking square. Nice project! I have one already with a hardwood guide but plan to make your design with an aluminum guide soon. Thanks!
Thanks for the tip!
I also am careful on Internet recommendations. The Internet has a habit for parroting information from one source, a mechanic said it best when he coined the phrase "arm chair mechanics", the guy who reads a Haynes or Chilton manual and then gives advice in forums and videos without even turning a wrench. I assume the same thing with saw blades, someone read Mr. Sawdust and started recommending his blade and other arm chair wood workers started copying someone else's recommendations which then snowballed into people blindly following that without looking at other sources or even questioning it. I found a lot of commenters don't practice the thing they comment on no matter what the subject matter is.
That is very true.
That's a cool attachment. I wonder how hard it would be to get a 2 or 3 step pulley made for the saw arbor ? I'd put a piece of high density plastic on the tool rest to avoid the notches. Great video.
Years ago I made a 3 step pulley for my regular wood lathe’s motor so I can pretty confidently say it would just take a couple hours on a metal lathe. If I was to make a custom pulley I’d make the hole threaded so it goes on the arbor without needing the nut.
Thanks for this video! The tip about removing the paint was all I needed to make the Grizzly G3051 riser block work! For the long blade guard on the up-side, is it okay to install it open-face-in or face-out? When I bought the saw, it was faced in so each time you changed the blade, you'd have to remove the guard.
Yes, the guards used to (30 years ago) always come from the factory with the opening facing out but now it seems like a 50/50 chance. I think they’re now If it was me I’d flip it around so you don’t have to take it off to change the blade each time.
Having just moved my late father’s Dewalt MBF, I’m so grateful that I found your channel! I suspect that I’ll be watching many of your videos.
👌👌👌👌👌👌❤️❤️💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Great video. Very informative! Would you happen to know if there is a particular old radial arm saw, 10in and/or above, for which you can still get parts?
I usually get away with using my RAS on large sheets the conventional way, with the excess on the in-rip side, fence at the back. But I found this trick useful in squaring up a large, odd shape piece. Simply clamp your guide at the right distance and the desired angle, typically parallel to the front edge of the part you want to keep. Thanks for the tip!
You’re welcome.
this a nice, clear explanation, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Very helpful. Thank you.
It's always good to have a backup radial arm saw to make parts for radial arm saw!
Nice work. Unfortunately, for me, you lost a huge chunk of credibility by owning the 'Bionic Wrench' abomination, let alone actually using it . . .
😂
Ripping on a radial arm saw in opinion is extreamly dangerious . It may be ok for ripping wide boards that fit on the table. I just dont like putting my hand between the fence and the blade with the whole blade above my hand. Scary! Table saw for ripping radial saw for cross cutting and mitering . Just my opinion.
If you wanted all 4 pawls to stop you could find a heavy stop collar to lock on above all 4 fingers level with your notch. Lock the Allen screws in the collar with thread locker so vibration doesn't cause it to loosen. IMO
That’s a good idea.
I enjoy your videos. They are very informative. I have an old Sears Craftsman RAS. I followed the instructions regarding greasing and lubricating. Can't get bevel to work. Took the bevel mechanism apart and put it back on saw but can't get it to work. Do you have a video where you re-assembled the RAS? Thank you.
Thanks, I have a video on aligning a radial arm saw and I go over the bevel adjustment. Maybe that would help?
Thank you you made it easier and worthwhile for me to rebuild the RAS i got handed down. Have been concerned with using. Also thanks for the video on making the prawl.
I’m glad it helped.
"I don't recommend you use any power tool blindfolded." - Iain Portalupi Noted.
Make sure you measure before you order the shaft material. Many DeWalt saws use a 1/2 inch shaft for the anti-ejection device.
I have every attachment that Dewalt offferd for the RAS except the lathe attachment it’s the holy grail of attachments , and I’ve used them all with great results.. thanks for showing them 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for watching! I lucked out getting the lathe attachment.
How's the belt sander attachment??
I just purchased the lathe attachment today. Found one locally here in LA, CA. Took me a year to find one.
Having owned and used a Radial Arm Saw for 40 years, I am a keen advocate. However, squaring the arm to the fence is an almost impossible task using the nut and screw adjustment, the tiniest tightening error is hugely magnified by the arm. I have given up with that approach, and now fix the arm and square the fence to the arm. I no longer use the standard fence arrangement and this does give rise to other compromises, which are all relatively easily overcome. A square cut is my holy grail. RAS's are prone to losing their settings. Even if like me I never unlock the arm. By squaring the fence to the arm I can re-square frustration free in minutes.
I’ll be honest, I’ve never had an issue squaring any of the three RAS I have. What make and model is yours?
Definitely the go to guy on radial arm saws
Thanks!
lots of information , quick , thanks
Thanks for watching!
People talk a lot of smack about ras. I am convinced that they have never use one that was properly adjusted. They require maintenance and knowledge of how wood is milled in three dimensions. A lot of people only have a two dimensional view of sawing lumber.
Thanks for sharing all this super useful information ! The pawls are missing on my dewalt and now I know what to do !
Glad I could help.
Wow Phil ! I have never heard of cork oak ? That's another beauty . The rays on the ends are outstanding . Al
I’ve been using them for years, there are so many uses. So under appreciated, I’ve had three given to me all running. Just people not knowing how to use them.
Please, where did you found the Rotary planer attachment? I have the first item but i am completely unable to find the Rotary planer neither in Amazon, eBay o AliExpress... Even nothing similar... 😢
recently picked up a craftsman 113 model RAS in really good condition with multiple attachments for $70 (rotary planer, molding kit, jointer/planer kit, and a sabre saw attachment) that the guy's father bought new in 1960. It's really neat having a saw that's made a ton of furniture in it's lifetime including a rocking horse the guy still had in his garage. Am absolutely loving it so far. Mainly will be used for cross cutting and this weekend I plan on building the table to make the raised doors you made a video on. Am a novice in woodwork but have been around power tools my whole life so I felt comfortable purchasing after watching your videos, had no idea how useful a RAS was until I came across your page. Thanks a million for making them. Am absolutely loving it so far and am looking forward to building more odds and ends furniture pieces for around the house and outside. Thanks again!