I do take a pas since I lead not top rope so don’t know what’s at the top. Sometimes untying is required, I have never seen a mussy hook in the countries I climb in. I learned lead immediately not top rope so perhaps I am missing a trick, why HMS biners to the bolts/ rings? Seems offset d would be good there.
@lukegaming862 күн бұрын
Christ what an example of overcomplicating an simple concept
@hansonlife94657 күн бұрын
Hey, any tips on how you attached the stone to that board?
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
I used liquid nails!
@hansonlife94655 күн бұрын
@@howtoclimb oh, nice! Thanks for the reply!
@reneeschke9 күн бұрын
Petzl connect adjust so much better as a proper PAS
@chadrambo103813 күн бұрын
Simple yet clever. Thank you!
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
Glad it was helpful!
@pisgahclimbingschool572515 күн бұрын
🎉👏👏💯
@kakalo21216 күн бұрын
Thanks for the info!! In what situations is the first option used and in wich the second?? Thank you very much
@NomadAdventureCol17 күн бұрын
Hi buddy! I got a question! What happen when the second/client doesn't know how to make a friction knot if it is gonna be the first person to descent?
@Fabianwew18 күн бұрын
would whip
@zainy1128 күн бұрын
no backup on the traxion??
@hansonlife946529 күн бұрын
May I ask. How did you attach the rocks to the board?
@EricCraig-km4sb29 күн бұрын
Nice to see you have some interested responses. The art of mountaineering is disappearing fast.
@BoankofaАй бұрын
Classic Darwin award
@Peaches.GonsalezАй бұрын
It's in the back of my mind.
@TomHumphries-gk6qfАй бұрын
Karsten,, absolutely 💯 👍 trust your videos!! No nonsense approach and a person who trusts the gear!! Thank you 🙏 so much Karsten!! Keep them going, stay safe!!
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
I appreciate that! Thank you!
@mrgrorkАй бұрын
I’d like your opinion: 6 days ago a climber posted on a Facebook group about a stuck cam, offering a 6 pack as reward. Yesterday I found a belay, went out to the line and found the cam wedged so far back into this flaring crack that I couldn’t see it except when looking in deliberately. It was so far in that I couldn’t clip it, and when trying to retrieve it I lost a lot of skin over the course of half an hour trundling chockstones and finagling the lobes. I thought it might be impossible to retrieve and couldn’t imagine how it got so far back. Now I’m wondering whether to be a Good Samaritan and let him know I got the cam out, or keep it as my prize for sending the route and rubbing my hands raw to snag it. There was no sob story or anything, and I’m broke and unemployed. Surely this married guy from the city can afford it? And I’ve been losing so much more expensive gear lately, don’t I deserve some positive karma back? I know the unofficial rules of booty state it’s now mine. But I did go hunting for this cam based solely off the Facebook plea. Thanks for your input!
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
Haha, well I guess in the end it is up to you. The reasons I give stuff back is I would rather folks leave gear than get in trouble and me or others have to head out and rescue them. I also think it is fairly easy to find the owners in today’s social media world. I also don’t like using gear that I have found as I don’t know the history. This is especially true for guides or anyone working in a professional setting. So with all this said I just post and hope to find the owners. Maybe I’ll get some good karma down the road as well!
@ClimbClearАй бұрын
Clove hitch in the middle of the petzl adjust is a great idea. I just purchased one and have been thinking of ways to do this. Thanks!
@user-rh6vd6ev5kАй бұрын
Number 7 is a NoGo… if you fall, there is a risk of unclipping the rope, because the rope enters the biner from the rong side. Never do this!!!
@ClimbClearАй бұрын
Damn
@z1522Ай бұрын
Re video and viewer comments: - 5 min in, the logic against rings is disproven as the sling with X held beyond 20kN. The X, not the biner profile, is the most significant factor. - Ring pluses: you can't cross-load a ring; it has no gate to open; it has no corners to snag; modern fat rings stamped with 22 kN are strong in any direction. - Ring minuses: it has less capacity (but still likely a fat girth plus two biners) but this equates with a smaller item than the carabiner otherwise needed. Ring +/-: a ring is often carried anyhow for a rap scenario, otherwise goes unused; using for master point frees up a carabiner. - older methods with equalizing sliders, giant wadded figure eights, etc. can be hard to untie, re-equalize, and overthinking loads and equalizing has been largely found to be ineffective and even introduces greater shock loads when one anchor fails. - balancing the directional loads into the girth when building is sufficient to provide "equalizing," as loss of any strand just moves more load to the remainder, without any sliding or shock. - the beauty of the girth is its easy adjustment and high final strength with the X added; more complexities are superfluous and not needed. - clove hitches do not behave in the same fashion, in slippery Dyneema type fibers, and may not provide the same final strength; many test videos show this.
@MegaMarine4everАй бұрын
Why not just use an ATC with a third hand at this point 😅
@dennislydon6769Ай бұрын
How bout take a nice hike on a safe trail and call it a day .... unless you are an Army ranger there is no need to be rappelling off steep jagged rockface
@erikklumpp3464Ай бұрын
It’s not a question of preference for me but what makes the most sense in every climbing context I have used all. In particular I think it’s important to be able to clip behind and on top of the draw. Understanding where the rope is coming from and the direction of force that would be applied if you fall
@melchorguzmanmadueno8591Ай бұрын
I have no idea wtf are the doing... ping pong?
@TM-cm4gbАй бұрын
why not use 2 shorter slings without knots... That hitch reduces strenght of master point like 40% or so...
@MegaMarine4everАй бұрын
Hi Karsten, got this recommended :). Tbh, I dont see a situation where I would prefer this over repelling with reverso + third hand. I just feel like there is not enough backup with the grigri if I suddenly get hit by a stone and drop both hands, you could add a prusik tho. And a quick question: Whats your opinion on the texas rope trick if you cant finish a route? Usefull, or do you just leave a quickdraw carabiner or a quicklink?
@noodlesthe1stАй бұрын
How the hell that even happens when the start holds are partially covered will always baffle me.
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
Yup, kinda crazy… but folks zone out.
@kyguy73656Ай бұрын
Just wanted to say saw you at Sandrock November 2023 and interacted with you briefly while you were looking for an injured climber, it was cool to see you in person of course had no time for meet in greet as there were more important matters at hand but it was very inspiring seeing you asking where they were and being to the point and there to help. My buddies and I were behind knob wall climbing “somethingness” (stem climb) when you asked me if I knew where the injured climber was. The crag was lucky to have you there that day! Thanks for the inspiration to beginning my long journey in the freedom of the hills…
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
Oh awesome! I remember talking to you all. Hopefully we will see you in the mountains again soon!
@rezinatebassheadАй бұрын
why would you plan on betting with your life on someone else's gear thats been left behind and sitting in the elements forever?? cut that trash off and use your own gear
@ml1306Ай бұрын
It’s 2:1
@AdventureswithPatrickАй бұрын
Great video! We use the Clutch, ASAP and larger pulleys whenever we can. But this lightweight set-up is a great option when you can’t work out of the truck or UTV’s. Would love to see a video from you on anchors. Webbing vs. rope and type of knots, etc. You have a very good and detailed presentation style. Thanks!
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
The heavier stuff definitely has more efficiency built in when you can just grab stuff out of the truck. We use the same when off the side of the road. I do thing rope can be more efficient in most applications for anchor building with desperate components. However webbing still has lots of application!
@shock2xtc2Ай бұрын
so clear. so concise. thank you very much
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
You're very welcome!
@SkiingIsBelieving859Ай бұрын
#5 is the Alex Honnold method
@seekelectricityАй бұрын
How dangerous is it to do this setup with non lockers?
@noodlesthe1stАй бұрын
I use the first method when I can walk to the top of the route to set a top rope anchor and don't want to walk back down. Super handy. I'm gonna use the second method so I can retrieve the rope too now.
@masonwicks-lim2387Ай бұрын
Does anyone have any ideas on how to perform this rescue with a child who is so light that when the belayer tries to ascend, they instead lift the child? It seems like the belayer could tie off the belay and then climb up behind the child causing them to be lowered, but I feel like there must be a more elegant solution.
@synstar8558Ай бұрын
kzread.info/dash/bejne/iZlh0NqlmsrUp5c.htmlsi=pHOE-jx_5HmeoHvN Petzl ID or RIG all the way
@ignacioinderАй бұрын
Great simple educational video.
@aquanaut22 ай бұрын
I really appreciate your honesty and information
@aquanaut22 ай бұрын
Great information thanks
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
Your welcome!
@LeoPulfrey2 ай бұрын
Awesomeness. Thank you man. ❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊😊😅😮😢🎉😂❤.
@howtoclimb5 күн бұрын
Glad you enjoyed it!
@sakurasshhii2 ай бұрын
2, 7 are my favourite
@baktipertiwi53262 ай бұрын
Knapa gak gunakan puly agar tali tdk friksi
@noahroach49312 ай бұрын
How useful would it be to join a contrastingly colored tag line to the other end near the anchor? just alpine anchors maybe. also, at what point does the anchor become too far to pull.
@tuckerwebb53362 ай бұрын
How to sell your manhood, 101... Never took this course.
@patrickglaser15602 ай бұрын
That's why i got 178s for touring;)
@renatosureal2 ай бұрын
🤦♂️🥺🤦♂️😬😖
@taotracy44312 ай бұрын
what harness is that?
@howtoclimb2 ай бұрын
It is the Petzl Fly harness! Made for ski mountaineering.
@vlaaady2 ай бұрын
Yeah, the clove in fat Pretzel connect adjust is ugly and requires a big carabiner. Thanks.
@howtoclimb2 ай бұрын
Completely agree! And yea if you have a smaller carabiner, it can block the gate from opening. This bowline is definitely the way!
@vlaaady2 ай бұрын
I guess if you come from above you would do a tandem rappel?
Пікірлер
I do take a pas since I lead not top rope so don’t know what’s at the top. Sometimes untying is required, I have never seen a mussy hook in the countries I climb in. I learned lead immediately not top rope so perhaps I am missing a trick, why HMS biners to the bolts/ rings? Seems offset d would be good there.
Christ what an example of overcomplicating an simple concept
Hey, any tips on how you attached the stone to that board?
I used liquid nails!
@@howtoclimb oh, nice! Thanks for the reply!
Petzl connect adjust so much better as a proper PAS
Simple yet clever. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
🎉👏👏💯
Thanks for the info!! In what situations is the first option used and in wich the second?? Thank you very much
Hi buddy! I got a question! What happen when the second/client doesn't know how to make a friction knot if it is gonna be the first person to descent?
would whip
no backup on the traxion??
May I ask. How did you attach the rocks to the board?
Nice to see you have some interested responses. The art of mountaineering is disappearing fast.
Classic Darwin award
It's in the back of my mind.
Karsten,, absolutely 💯 👍 trust your videos!! No nonsense approach and a person who trusts the gear!! Thank you 🙏 so much Karsten!! Keep them going, stay safe!!
I appreciate that! Thank you!
I’d like your opinion: 6 days ago a climber posted on a Facebook group about a stuck cam, offering a 6 pack as reward. Yesterday I found a belay, went out to the line and found the cam wedged so far back into this flaring crack that I couldn’t see it except when looking in deliberately. It was so far in that I couldn’t clip it, and when trying to retrieve it I lost a lot of skin over the course of half an hour trundling chockstones and finagling the lobes. I thought it might be impossible to retrieve and couldn’t imagine how it got so far back. Now I’m wondering whether to be a Good Samaritan and let him know I got the cam out, or keep it as my prize for sending the route and rubbing my hands raw to snag it. There was no sob story or anything, and I’m broke and unemployed. Surely this married guy from the city can afford it? And I’ve been losing so much more expensive gear lately, don’t I deserve some positive karma back? I know the unofficial rules of booty state it’s now mine. But I did go hunting for this cam based solely off the Facebook plea. Thanks for your input!
Haha, well I guess in the end it is up to you. The reasons I give stuff back is I would rather folks leave gear than get in trouble and me or others have to head out and rescue them. I also think it is fairly easy to find the owners in today’s social media world. I also don’t like using gear that I have found as I don’t know the history. This is especially true for guides or anyone working in a professional setting. So with all this said I just post and hope to find the owners. Maybe I’ll get some good karma down the road as well!
Clove hitch in the middle of the petzl adjust is a great idea. I just purchased one and have been thinking of ways to do this. Thanks!
Number 7 is a NoGo… if you fall, there is a risk of unclipping the rope, because the rope enters the biner from the rong side. Never do this!!!
Damn
Re video and viewer comments: - 5 min in, the logic against rings is disproven as the sling with X held beyond 20kN. The X, not the biner profile, is the most significant factor. - Ring pluses: you can't cross-load a ring; it has no gate to open; it has no corners to snag; modern fat rings stamped with 22 kN are strong in any direction. - Ring minuses: it has less capacity (but still likely a fat girth plus two biners) but this equates with a smaller item than the carabiner otherwise needed. Ring +/-: a ring is often carried anyhow for a rap scenario, otherwise goes unused; using for master point frees up a carabiner. - older methods with equalizing sliders, giant wadded figure eights, etc. can be hard to untie, re-equalize, and overthinking loads and equalizing has been largely found to be ineffective and even introduces greater shock loads when one anchor fails. - balancing the directional loads into the girth when building is sufficient to provide "equalizing," as loss of any strand just moves more load to the remainder, without any sliding or shock. - the beauty of the girth is its easy adjustment and high final strength with the X added; more complexities are superfluous and not needed. - clove hitches do not behave in the same fashion, in slippery Dyneema type fibers, and may not provide the same final strength; many test videos show this.
Why not just use an ATC with a third hand at this point 😅
How bout take a nice hike on a safe trail and call it a day .... unless you are an Army ranger there is no need to be rappelling off steep jagged rockface
It’s not a question of preference for me but what makes the most sense in every climbing context I have used all. In particular I think it’s important to be able to clip behind and on top of the draw. Understanding where the rope is coming from and the direction of force that would be applied if you fall
I have no idea wtf are the doing... ping pong?
why not use 2 shorter slings without knots... That hitch reduces strenght of master point like 40% or so...
Hi Karsten, got this recommended :). Tbh, I dont see a situation where I would prefer this over repelling with reverso + third hand. I just feel like there is not enough backup with the grigri if I suddenly get hit by a stone and drop both hands, you could add a prusik tho. And a quick question: Whats your opinion on the texas rope trick if you cant finish a route? Usefull, or do you just leave a quickdraw carabiner or a quicklink?
How the hell that even happens when the start holds are partially covered will always baffle me.
Yup, kinda crazy… but folks zone out.
Just wanted to say saw you at Sandrock November 2023 and interacted with you briefly while you were looking for an injured climber, it was cool to see you in person of course had no time for meet in greet as there were more important matters at hand but it was very inspiring seeing you asking where they were and being to the point and there to help. My buddies and I were behind knob wall climbing “somethingness” (stem climb) when you asked me if I knew where the injured climber was. The crag was lucky to have you there that day! Thanks for the inspiration to beginning my long journey in the freedom of the hills…
Oh awesome! I remember talking to you all. Hopefully we will see you in the mountains again soon!
why would you plan on betting with your life on someone else's gear thats been left behind and sitting in the elements forever?? cut that trash off and use your own gear
It’s 2:1
Great video! We use the Clutch, ASAP and larger pulleys whenever we can. But this lightweight set-up is a great option when you can’t work out of the truck or UTV’s. Would love to see a video from you on anchors. Webbing vs. rope and type of knots, etc. You have a very good and detailed presentation style. Thanks!
The heavier stuff definitely has more efficiency built in when you can just grab stuff out of the truck. We use the same when off the side of the road. I do thing rope can be more efficient in most applications for anchor building with desperate components. However webbing still has lots of application!
so clear. so concise. thank you very much
You're very welcome!
#5 is the Alex Honnold method
How dangerous is it to do this setup with non lockers?
I use the first method when I can walk to the top of the route to set a top rope anchor and don't want to walk back down. Super handy. I'm gonna use the second method so I can retrieve the rope too now.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to perform this rescue with a child who is so light that when the belayer tries to ascend, they instead lift the child? It seems like the belayer could tie off the belay and then climb up behind the child causing them to be lowered, but I feel like there must be a more elegant solution.
kzread.info/dash/bejne/iZlh0NqlmsrUp5c.htmlsi=pHOE-jx_5HmeoHvN Petzl ID or RIG all the way
Great simple educational video.
I really appreciate your honesty and information
Great information thanks
Your welcome!
Awesomeness. Thank you man. ❤😂🎉😢😮😅😊😊😅😮😢🎉😂❤.
Glad you enjoyed it!
2, 7 are my favourite
Knapa gak gunakan puly agar tali tdk friksi
How useful would it be to join a contrastingly colored tag line to the other end near the anchor? just alpine anchors maybe. also, at what point does the anchor become too far to pull.
How to sell your manhood, 101... Never took this course.
That's why i got 178s for touring;)
🤦♂️🥺🤦♂️😬😖
what harness is that?
It is the Petzl Fly harness! Made for ski mountaineering.
Yeah, the clove in fat Pretzel connect adjust is ugly and requires a big carabiner. Thanks.
Completely agree! And yea if you have a smaller carabiner, it can block the gate from opening. This bowline is definitely the way!
I guess if you come from above you would do a tandem rappel?