OMG, I love your method over what I've been doing, so much simpler! Super appreciate your instruction Karsten, thank you so much!

@howtoclimb

Жыл бұрын

your welcome and thanks for commenting!

Love this redirect method. Thank you, Karsten!

Love the videos! The equivocation hitch has saved me more than once. Keep it up

interesting to see method 3 instead of the LSD method, seems much safer

@howtoclimb

2 жыл бұрын

I wouldn’t necessarily say more safe but definitely produces more regulated friction. The LSD can be finicky. Both should have back ups. The LSD as is when the climber can unweight the rope, where this method of the redirected plate can be done weighted.

Karsten, Nice video! A question, what would make you choose between method two and method three?

@howtoclimb

2 жыл бұрын

Mainly based on sustainability. The “grigri” method is a bit more on and off and can be hard on the hand. The redirected plate is great for a long lower.

Karsten, thank you for the video. I have a question though - the redirected rope, should that carabiner be locked? I don't think i see the movements in your video that it's locked. i'm just wondering in the context that in the low probability that if it slipped out of an unlocked carabiner, the plaquette would be in a free-to-release configuration and potentially catastrophic. of course it can be mitigated with a third hand, that i know. but... should that carabiner be locked? thank you.

@howtoclimb

Жыл бұрын

Technically it wouldn’t need to be. If the rope comes out, it goes back into plaquette mode and stops the lower.

so 3 locking carabiners and a Reverso. a new Grigri3 is only 175 grams and does all that with none of the effort. Question, if you have 2 people on the reverso, and you fully release one climber to lower them, what happens to the 2nd climber? are they not on guide mode anymore?

@howtoclimb

2 жыл бұрын

They would not be, so you tie a knot or clip them off via the brake strand so that they are still on belay.

@TarikVann

Жыл бұрын

Your question shows why a tubular device is an advantage over a gri gri. They are also significantly more expensive.

@timonix2

Жыл бұрын

When climbing trad you often use double or twin ropes. You don't want to carry two gri gris up with you. But a single atc guide works fine for this.

I love your videos but I'm gonna go ahead and point out why this is dangerous. You connect the blocking carabiner to your harness without a third hand on the brake strand and in this example you connect to the plaquette redirect without your hand on the brake rope. If a novice saw this and copied your video step by step, they may get someone killed. In either scenario if you were to trip, fall, lose your footing then you would be opening up the plaquette with nothing stopping the brake Strand from rushing through. Ideally you'd never let go of the brake strand but if you fall there is a good chance you will or Atleast you'd have enough slack to let a climber fall a metre or two and then some with slack, which could mean a ledge hit. It takes very little time to set up a kleimheist on the brake strand and it renders the whole system fool proof. Always add a third hand to the braking strand when lowering. P.S. Always use body weight to pull the plaquette redirect, doing it by hand can lead to a very fast disengagement. Honestly, I think you can do a better video with a more careful explanation of the risks involved and show the safe way to do it. Please keep up the videos, but please don't drop the safety standard of them as dumb people watch internet videos and think they know enough.

@howtoclimb

Жыл бұрын

I agree with you. Probably should have mentioned the back up but left it off for clarity.