Mostly about my HellRaisin 2020 Dodge Challenger R/T Scat Pack 1320 and it's progression as I attempt breaking a 10 second quarter mile time in it with a stock 392 Hemi. How you ask? With weight reduction! Some of the things I do may be a little unconventional, but hopefully there'll be some good info as I weigh up different parts.
Through it all I'll be drag racing, going to events, doing unboxings with reviews, how-to's and install videos, and anything else automotive related mostly centered around Mopar vehicles.
You'll also see my 2017 Ram 1500 which handles most daily driving and towing. There'll be info and reviews on it along with mods and accessories used to tow not only my Challenger to races, buy my RV Travel Trailer around the country.
Finally, you may be wondering about the 'Scavenger' in my name. It's a hobby of mine that you'll get to see every so often including auction finds and scrapping. I may even do some scrapping runs in my 11 second drag car!
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fantastic job. I haven't worked on the hemi engines hardly at all, and have the same issue. Thanks for posting the video. Now it's my turn to tackle the job except my issue is on the driver side.
Nice work man 🧍♂️ thanks for posting
Adding some more useful info for the mob. Jegs SSR Stars 15x4 12lbs Hoosier 18107 front tires 10 lbs. Fit with no issues with TCE front drag brakes. Jegs SSR Star 15x10 19lbs Hoosier 28x10x15 slick 24lbs fit with TCE rear drag brakes or TBM brakes, lots of grinding, aftermarket toe links and sway bar links.
what about the plastic shield for the gas tank? i def noticed more heat with that shield removed near the tank, may put some thinner gold heat shield material back up
The best way to fix this problem is a set of good Headers, ARP Bolts and also some high quality gaskets. Installed Headers 4 years ago on my 2014 Ram 1500 HEMI and no more problems. Plus it sounds better. Forget using the stock manifolds and hardware because it’ll just happen again. I know, because that’s what happened after the first set of factory manifolds were replaced under warranty at the Dealership. Next leaking manifolds were on me and I installed shortly Headers and ARP hardware, DONE.
so your heat shield isn’t supposed to glide freely… mine does lol
How about mentioning the size sockets
Great video! I have the 4 piston Brembo's on my Skat and was looking for light weight wheels. What wheel and tire are you using on the rear?
Have you since opened up the passenger side headlight lamp to get more air in and see what that does with temps?
God damn. Where the hell do these cars car so much weight!? It’s gutted and still weights 3600lbs wtf.
This cost me over $1,400 to repair at my local CDJR dealer, really wish I would have watched this video prior to getting the service done. Thank you for sharing!
No problem, I will keep up with your build and good luck!!
I am using FR3 in my 2015 Mazda 3 2.0L. I'm something of a hyper-miler and I believe it gave me just under 2% increase in peak fuel economy on the highway. I also did a Blackstone UOA and had a nice, clean report ... but not necessarily any improvement over past reports for the same car/engine. However, Lake Speed had a video on this stuff and said the formulation does not play will with high ester oils like Amsoil and Red Line Oil. So, I won't be getting it again once it's gone.
You're the second person to bring up Lake Speed, I'm going to need to find that vid. I think I remember watching another vid too, (maybe it was him??) that talked about how it can take away or dilute some of the properties of the oil and it makes sense. Either way, I don't plan on using any oil additives anymore either.
@@Scavenger1320 , it could have been this one as well: kzread.info/dash/bejne/na152smmqpiTqLA.html
Another way to lose weight, expensive, but works... replace steel bolts with titanium and aluminum. I did my 911 turbo... lug studs and half shaft bolts, fender bolts. Use titanium on anything rotating like pump pulley bolts, crank pulley. Titanium is about 40% lighter, and doesn't rust. Valve cover bolts, bolts in the doors, shifter, nuts, too. The 4 bolts for the seat, change to titanium. All of it adds up. Unfortunately, it isn't cheap, lugs and castle nuts for shafts is rotational weight and is worth it, in my opinion. The only bolts I wouldn't use titanium on, head, main, flex plate, and rod. Any rotational weight savings is worth it, my opinion.
Titanium lugs are definitely on my list. I didn't really think about other bolts and hardware but that's a good idea. I might have to look into some of those and see how pricey it might be. Could be something I just replace a few at a time. My Kirkey seat would probably be a good place to start since I just used generic steel hardware to mount it. Thanks for the tip!
Great Racing Chris! 392 Club Champ!
That’s why I bought a Camaro ZL1 convertible, fit and finish is much better than the Dodge aftermarket company who installs them. I’ve seen some in person fit and finish is horrible and costs roughly $26k !
Much appreciated. After a few days of following other youtube videos and owners manual with no luck. Watched your how to and low and behold door is finally linked to new jeep. Thanks a bunch...👏🏼👏🏼
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Very cool as always…Pat..😎
Thanks!
What a nightmare 😂 doing this today on my 2017 hope i get lucky
Good luck! Hope it went good
@Scavenger1320 well... it was going great, until i got on the second bolt thag snapped i don't have the clearance for the drill to go on straight on the bottom aft bolt so I'm trying to figure this out now lol
@@victorortega2718 oh damn, that sucks. This might be where I'd find someone who welds and has equipment to try and weld on top of it or weld a nut to it. I know in my case one of my neighbors has welding equipment and I figured worst case scenario I'd go knocking on his door for help if something like that happened to me.
@Scavenger1320 yeah I went to see my dad and my brother in law had an angle drilled let me use it I just got it out and the new parts in, came in for some water bout to go back out and torque that bitch lol I was scared tho I aint gon lie
Ok I’m grudge racing on a pro tree?
My procedure for a .500 pro tree when reaction time matters is once I'm prestaged and the other guy is prestaged, I raise the rpms up to around 22-2300 and slowly bump in to get staged, once the staged light comes on I'll bump in a little bit further, but stay just short of going full deep. Then just slam the pedals as soon as I see even a hint of amber coming on. I get pretty good reaction times that way usually in the mid .0xx with my best ever being a .001
That bar installation lever comes with the hitch, if you didn’t get one with the hitch and you bought it new you got had. FYI: I’ve got this same fine hitch I bought new in 2019.
Yeah, I don't know why I said it the way I did. It's sitting inside the RV, I just never use it. I did note that correction at 6:17
Just install a set of JBA shortie headers. Done!!
That's one option for sure.
Thank you for your service!
I appreciate that!
I have a 1320 and leaving off bout 2k idle at the track getting like a 1.8 60. So going off idle is the best method?
Yup, at least for me. Every time I've reset a new best e.t. and best 60', it's always been launching off idle. You also want to make sure you're staged shallow. You'll sacrifice reaction time launching this way but that's why I only use this launch method when chasing times and not during competition.
So why does mine keep coming off all the time
Youre gonna have the same problem in a few years. The new manifold will warp after more heat cycles. You shouldved belt sanded the old one (doesnt have to be 100% flat) and reuse it with new hardware and gasket.
I don't have a belt sander so that would have been tough to do. But it took 100K miles for it to happen this first time. If I can go 100K again I probably won't have the truck anymore to have to worry about it.
@@Scavenger1320 up here in Canada, mine went at under 60,000miles
60mph is too slow. Happy medium would have me traveling 65mph
I wonder if you could add remote start to the ones that don’t have it by simply adding the additional hub
I don't know what all would be involved but at the very least you'd also have to get the computer updated to recognize the hub. I know in cases where a car already has the hub, if it needs to be replaced for whatever reason, the dealer still has to update the computer for the new hub.
Thank you for the info, couldn’t find anything on it. My key fob has the button for it but has no module in the rear
My fluid isn’t coming out of the air release valve?
I have a 2019 longhorn 1500, looking at a 25' Rinker 6250lb dry + trailer weight. What's your opinion on towing the boat with it a few times a year probably no longer than 200 miles one way?
Short trips like that and that size boat I honestly wouldn't hesitate at all in towing it with my 2017. Weight looks to be in limits, plus a boat is a lot more aerodynamic than a huge RV trailer so the truck won't be working as hard to keep it moving. I tow my car to races a lot on an open trailer and even though the weights are pretty close to my RV, I get way better mileage just because of how much more aerodynamic my car is behind my truck than the RV. The only concern I would have is the tongue weight. With my RV I have to use a weight distribution hitch. When I'm towing my car I can get by without one and my truck doesn't squat that much.
i am currently having the same problem (im like 80%sure) but on the driver side. How bad is it to drive my truck in that condition? I cant see it being too bad since its just the exhaust but, i could very well be wrong
It's really more just annoying than anything else. With mine I think I drove it about a year with the exhaust tick before I did the repair in this vid, and as you can see in this vid, there was just a little bit of exhaust deposits or soot or whatever you call it around the back area where the bolt broke but it wasn't anything that could cause any further damage. I think there may be a comment or two in here from people that said they've been driving around with it for 5 years.
@Scavenger1320 awesome, Thank you! I just crawled under my driver side and confirmed the missing bolt plus some soot deposits. This vid was a big help, thanks again bro
Issue with bolt extraction from manifolds specifically....is what you ran into with bending and metal stress. These bolts get a ton of heat stress and expansion. The studs on the heat shield bolts break because they are of a poor design. Replacements have the same flaw. They tend to fracture at the taper, which is probably the best place...this avoiding the drill and tap.....but when the head snaps do not use vise grips to twist. Get a few nuts on the stub and pull it out like a stud. If the stub is too short.....you may need to wig-weld a net to it and then back it out. protecting the block is they key. Mopar really shit the bed when it came to these bolts.
I've already had mine changed once with OEM and they are both bad again does anyone have any idea of what good ones would be
Some people just switch to a shorty header. If you have to replace both that's probably what I would do. Another option that I found out about after I did this vid, especially if you only needed one, is a manifold kit made by BD Diesel. The manifold itself is basically the same design, but they modified the bolts and separated the heat shield bolts so that they won't snap as easily.
Copy that it is getting kind of ridiculous to be honest
This was already proven snake oil.
Not a car guy, and don't know much about electricity. It looks like you attached the black cable to a bolt or something instead of the negative on the battery. Which is it, and does it matter? Thanks
With these Challengers the battery is located in the trunk, so Dodge added jumping points in the engine bay. That 'bolt' is the negative jumping post specifically made for that purpose. If you look closely at the plastic fuse box cover in front of it, you can see an image of a jumper embossed into it pointing to each post.
How did you know ,the ticking was exhaust manifold,and not lifters?
The dead giveaway was how the tick quickly faded away as the engine warmed up. If it were the lifters the tick would be more continuous. Plus when you open up the hood and listen closer you can tell the tick is coming from outside the engine, not inside.
I know your really into weight reduction and congrats on the 10 second passes, awesome man!! So have you considered any suspension parts to further your weight reduction? Have you researched IF anyone makes lighter parts that would lighten our heavy as hell cars? I want to build my car to get into the low 11's without having to strip the car down missing strettable parts like interior trim rugs mirrors etc. I want to figure out if there are replacement parts like the bumper supports, battery etc that will lighten her up. Love your videos man great job.
AAD makes some lighter suspension components that are really nice but also really expensive. I have a full 'weight reduction' playlist with everything I have including a lightweight battery and bumper supports. It also depends on what items you're comfortable with. 'Rugs' don't make a car streetable, things like that are a luxury item. I drive my car fully gutted the way you see here out on the street all the time. The only difference is I put on my street wheels (that still have drag radials btw) and I do put my rear view and driver side mirror back on, but those take me less than a minute to do. You can go directly to my weight reduction playlist here: kzread.info/head/PLT6sOvzPq0omxUrKJPKeTuYLkDF2TTy_J&si=opUtGEPY9ReFwC3z.
Maybe this question was asked, I didn't go through the 300 plus comments, but why couldn't you just remove the spring from the actuator?
That’s literally one of the options I talk about in this vid. You still need to wire the valves open though otherwise they’ll just flop around
😂seems like a big bitching session. Whats wrong with slowing down and smelling the roses.
There weren't any roses to smell lol
You need a bigger pickup, like a three quarter ton, say a 3500, or F250. You’re crazy to pull those heavy loads with a half ton pickup.
Says the guy who literally has 'crazy' in his username lol
Thank you very much شكرا
THANK YOU!! My car was stolen - then recovered. But they pulled the rearview off, and cut the wiring. Glad they left the rearview in the car, though. And now I can at least put it back, thanks to your well-explained steps.
Glad I could help but sorry to hear you had to deal with a theft.
but what if you get caught in rain or snow ? just wondering would it damage something or flood intake
Even with fender liners in place there is all sorts of water getting splashed into the engine bay on pretty much any vehicle. Not to mention that on this car it comes from the factory with 2 big openings in the hood where water from rain or just washing the car will get into the engine bay. The only way anything will get flooded is if you drive into several feet deep of water, and if you find yourself in that position, plastic liners in the fender aren't going to stop anything lol. Remember, during flash floods, "Turn around, don't drown!"
@@Scavenger1320 thank you for reply! Im kinda stripping my car alongside with you all these time, your videos are great! keep it up!
Dodge needs to stop cheaping out and doing bad designs for their own sake other than that shit and worser engineering (I prefer older ram hemi engineering waaaay better than the newer bullshit) the vehicles are nice. Sadly the great 5.7 is cheaply built. A large majority of rams have lifter ticks as they gain miles and especially EXHAUST MANIFOLD ISSUES ughhh I bought a ram sport they needed manifolds badly. It was irritating I almost didn’t want to drive it. Nothing wrong with the truck mechanically people told me it had rod knock it sounded that bad. I kept telling them NO the motor is mechanically sound not even 100k miles yet. The exhaust manifolds were shot heat shields dangling, broken bolts. Pieces of shit. I prefer the older original 5.7 hemi engineering wise over the modern one. You get more room and the cooling system is simpler. You can see how much coolant is in the flow tank and the windshield wiper reservoir is clear with a fill line! I love the look and the power and torque of the newer trucks plus the interior… sorta, the older truck has me for working on it so I miss my older one
It can even happen when driving that noise and it becomes irritating
Thank u helped alot
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
@@Scavenger1320 thank you
I’m curious whether you feel a difference in horsepower now that temperatures are lower
It's hard to say honestly. These cars are so sensitive to any small change in weather that it's difficult to say when an improvement is from a mod or not. That said, I can definitely feel a difference the cooler the outside air is, so it makes sense that if the intake allows that cooler air to reach the engine instead of heating it up first, the result will be more power.
@@Scavenger1320 thank you for the response. Do you think having the TA intake adds any benefit if at all? What if I try to insulate my stock intake instead
@@JoeBadra insulating any intake should help for sure. I personally think the TA intake does have some benefit, but have no real proof of it and most people will say it doesn't. I do know the T/A cars seem to run quicker than non-T/A scats and that's really the only difference engine wise, even though Dodge still rates them at the exact same 485 horse, which I believe is more because it wasn't really worth it to Dodge to get a different power rating certified just for one of many small trim packages.
@@Scavenger1320 thanks! I actually have a 5.7 so I might try it on that with the insulation. I think it’s still cool to say the hood scoop is “functional”
Do you know if they make a black heat shield to wrap it with?
Not that I know of. But I know there's a high temp flat back spray paint specifically for high heat scenarios like this that you could find at Home Depot. Not sure how well the paint would stick to this wrap but it could be worth a try if you don't like the silvery look.
Could definitely explore that option also. Picking the system up for my scat in a couple weeks and from there figure out what to do with dropping the heating issues. Still the best system I have seen for our types of hoods. Everything I find is way to open in some way or another especially being over the bezel. You have pictures of what it looks like looking down through the bezel and under the hood how much the top piece has blocked off? I’ve been thinking also of opening the passenger headlight for more air flow into the engine compartment to push more heat out.
@@donaldrobinson3770 The driver side vent is essentially completely blocked by that hood duct so there's no heat escaping there. I pulled the passenger side headlight cap off too and that does help. I also removed all the engine bay dress-up plastics too as all that does is trap heat too. Biggest thing I did though was removing the cowl trim, that gave a huge area for heat to escape, but doing that isn't really for everyone as it's really visible and not the best looking, but for me who cares more about drag racing and weight reduction I'm fine with it.
Did you do an updated video of what else you did? I’m thinking of doing the same on my scat and need further info after this video. Thanks 😊
Not sure exactly what you mean by what else I did. Although I did end up buying some heat wrap and wrapped the intake duct which helped keep the air temps down a little bit more. That vid is here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mp5otZWCZ8TTdcY.htmlsi=q4ujJQs9ny-W5hXB. Other than that all I've done is weight reduction.
thanks so much for sharing, the star bit is a good idea
Since this vid I found out they actually make a different kind of extraction set that basically is just star bits, except they're made to be stronger to handle this exact purpose better. Thanks for watching!