This is Red Dirt Country, home cut-off shorts, sleeveless shirts, and 40-pound ham sammiches. Around here, we say things like "warsher", "uul", and "Sweet Buttered Toast!" Sometimes, we jump out of cars for no particularly good reason. So if you got a hankering for some down and dirty how-to tech action with whole lot of goofy gooberness, come on down the Red Dirt Rodz, we'll git you fixed, son.
Пікірлер
Thank you for posting this great video. Can this manifold be painted over on top of the graphite?
No, the graphite color is the only option. Nothing will stick to it. But it stays clean for a long time and can be touched up without looking touched up. It always blends together
@@ReddirtrodzHad bought two cast Iron exhaust manifolds which supposedly came painted with ceramic paint from the factory. I sprayed both of them with CERAKOTE Cobalt high heat color. I am restoring this Chevy Truck. one manifold started rusting in few spots. The other one is still perfect. Looking for a way to stop the rust so I can repaint it. Thank You
Do you have a part number on the hose?...ive got a box of braided lines just wana make sure i use the rite type for my ps system.
Great video just ordered me one of the tools
Just be patient and makesure you use the right mandrel.
So you didn't really want a Helix
Lol, still a helix!
WHERE CAN I GET THAT !
We get it from NAC (North American Composites), which is nationwide. We have changed the way we apply it, need to make a new video on that, it works even better, parts practically fall out.
I would just use a vice grip and tug the zip tie.
This ensures the lock doesn't bend or break, which is very common on SS ties, and it gets then as tight as they can go without damage.
The alligator clip is scratching that centre pin terribly. Braiding before soldering would be best. The drain blue wire is excellent idea almost like an XLR connection!
Would this work if you looped some of the braided wire in the door by the speaker, or would the loop cancel what the braid is doing? So, not necessarily running a new wire, just creating a "noise sink" at the door.
Running it around the speaker wouldn't do anything positive. The braid is the noise sink for the low voltage signal, it won't help with any other noise, and looping any signal wire creates an antenna for noise, which should be megsted by the braid, but I wouldn't do it.
@Reddirtrodz we are on the same page. "-) I also get that you need at least 18 braids. I was thinking if you then used that 18 braid section at the speaker as a service loop we'll say, then i dont have to rerun the whole connection. Although, now that I'm thinking about it, the old wire could be my pull string. Ha ha
im looking at making a l83 4.8L have you compare gen v crank vs gen 4
Could it be done without removing the crank pistons?
No, you have to pull the crank to get to the cam journals to put the bearings on the tool, can't slide them in from the front/rear. You dont have to pull the pistons though.
Amazing video. We would like to show this video on our channel with your permission. We will add your link and your name will also be mentioned in the video. Let us know what you think
Get some help!
Idk if the coil size comes into play to coz on my 4inch voice coil at 1700 watts on 2 12s I do 150.9 sealed meter on the dash this videos is gonna help me get some gains
Everything comes into play. This is theoretical, you cant just put 8k watts on a 400 watt sub, it will nuke it.
If your poor excuse for a soldering iron WAS"NICE & HOT" like u said, the solder would melt within 2 seconds. Tinning the iron would help too as would using flux. This is NOT what I'd call a tutorial on soldering anything. This is how no idea experts do it. Nice work, except it's terrible. Sorry to break it to you.
Sure, the solder melts instantly on the tip, but you have to heat up the base metal, which takes longer than a couple of seconds. If you just let the solder melt on the tip to the wire, you get a cold solder joint. Take your no clue having ass out of the comments, bud. Flux is not needed with rosin core solder for electronics. Hate to break it to you...
You must not be in the rust belt, that is a super solid car especially for a ‘67 (later cars were dipped and don’t rust quite as bad) around here only a really well taken care of pre ‘68 car looks that good. I’ve done at least a half dozen of these and every one WAY worse. Good thing the floors look good, they have over 120 spot weld per side.😂
Oh, the rockers alone had that many, lol! We are in Oklahoma, where rust is bad, but not Michigan bad.
I wish you were serious about this cause thats what i need to do
What do you mean? This was a serious repair video, the amp from the video is back in service.
Rubber gas hose works way better. You have some flex and cause zero damage.
It means that there ready for the scrap yard
Thanks for the video. Question, when rerouting a section of OEM pre-bent line, like for a new larger cooler that's located in a new spot, is it safe to bend that OEM hard line like you are here - all the same stuff, just use care not to kink or crimp, right? Just want to be sure that stuff doesn't split or crack, not sure how they form and harden it. Thanks.
Yes, as long as it doesnt kink, it is OK to bend. It should not split.
@@Reddirtrodz Thanks. Can you recommend a hand type bender for doing smaller tighter pieces? My dad had some real old small roller type benders but long gone now. Anything you can suggest would be appreciated. Will take my time, I understand no guarantees - just what you might suggest.
nice
I love the floor boards at 8:19.
Thanks! I am prettt happy with how they came out!
Yes ! Part 3. That's so funny how you said the fairing looks like the Independence Day alien because it totally does.
Right? Lol
Finally, I'm catching up on the Harlix episodes and can watch them all in a row now.
We will be back at it soon!
Finally, a new episode of the Harlix. (New to me.) I love your shop and the hard work you two are putting into the Harlix.
Thanks
If Google wasn't an asshat the service manual would be easy to find. They are blocking schematics and manuals that are no longer being distributed or that people have written years ago by hand.
Should have rehearsed a little. Called every accessory a different name 😅
Nah, scripts are for squares. We do it live.
Planning to do this on my 1948 chevy truck seat. Well done! Can"t wait to make my own look good too! Excellent tutorial.
Thanks! Good luck with your project!
what are they talking about in the instructions where it says...."At this time, reference the front of the engine with the handle of the wrench. Mark with tape where 125° of clockwise rotation would be from where 59 ft./lbs. was obtained. Rotate the wrench / bolt 125°. Remove the flywheel holder tool. The installation process is now complete" I just bought this same kit and will be installing it soon. didnt see that step in this video so was wondering how much it mattered lol
That is for the the stock-type TTY crank bolt, if you use the Earl's or ARP crank bolt, simple torque values are used and the bolt is reusable.
How do you get air in it after . Doing what you did just creates a vacuum and your tire is still flat. Safer way is ratchet strap and a portable air compressor. I like you encouraging people to do stupid and dangerous things!!!
You still need an air compressor, which is discussed in the video description. Yes, a ratchet strap sometimes works, but it didnt work on this tire, as we tried it. It is actually a commonly used process for large truck tires. It is dangerous, but someday it may help someone get home.
"I'm comin home Elizabeth " I'll be the one with half a face and my hair on fire.
@@toddmcneil5653 lolol!
Wow thats scary, glad nothing bad happ
Hehe nope
Very nice
That's cool. I didn't know it would just suck it up like that
You do have to pull a vacuum on it to get it started.
Ditto
What happened to this awesome scooter? Seriously is a legend among scooots.
Had to sit ot aside for a bit while we got some stuff dome thst pays actual money, lol! It's coming back real soon.
Okay but how do you use this gun without it dropping out of the nozzle
You mean dripping? It's a delicate balance! You have to get in the habit of finishing with an upsweep and hold the nozzle pointed up. It wont drip unless it is pointing down.
The camera man is always safe 🙏
Lol!
British Leyland badge would not be on a 1967 BGT ?
Were probably added by a previous owner
If im measuring my stock headunit, should i connect the o-scope after the stock amplifier?
Depends on if you are using the stock amp output. If you are running high-level input, then yes.
@@ReddirtrodzI'm using the stock amplifier for the interior speakers, then I am tapping off the stock subwoofer wire to go into my LC2I pro
12:28 Do you mean to secure the ground to the vehicle chassis and the radio chassis on each end?
No. The ground wire is a shield. By grounding it at one end only, any EMI noise will be directed to the ground, eliminating the interference. If you ground both sides, you end up with a ground loop which creates an imbalance in the signal. Think of the shielding ground as a lightning rod,
Bulls#!t… These bolts are torque to yield. 235 lb/ft is done with the old bolt to seat the balancer. THEN the new bolt gets 37 lb/ft followed by 140 degrees.
You are correct, if this was an OEM TTY bolt, which it isn't. I specifically call out that this is an Earl's crank bolt, which is a reusable bolt, which gets torqued to 235 lb.-ft.
Great info, I'm hoping to try something similar with my vehicle. Anyone have any suggestions though on a fabric that's mud/clay/dirt proof and stylish?
Vinyl. Lol
Great vid! Thanks for the detailed information. I’m about to do my 95 Mitsubishi with tandem rear wheels & dual wheel cylinders on each side. 💪👍🥂
The first cable is a disaster. Technically no you should not cut strands of wire like that when you're cutting the insulation, that is way too much pressure used to trim the insulation. The strands should lay naturally and not be twisted, although I lightly twist mine as well so the strands lay naturally. The wire should not protrude more than 1/16" (or width of a finger nail) past the end of an open connector on either side of the crimp end. At the end of the day if looks don't matter and it functions well, then I say screw it and go with it.
The first cable was done as an example of how you can do it if you dont have the right tools. That version is just fine. It will last and work, but it isnt the best option.
How do you take pistons off the rods that have pressed in pins? Do you use the press?
Depends on whether or not you want to save the pistons. Most of the time, you are taking them off to replace the pistons, so you just put them in the press, where they usually blow apart. Otherwise, you can buy a special tool that will remove them without breaking the piston. If you don't need the piston- press. If you do- pin removal tool.
Thank you brother
When you were hammering it, it helps to have an actually solid fixture.. all your force was gone considering you were working on a trampoline.
Can u show what u hooked up to the Hu
Lapping = shotty work
Nope, not even a little.