There are a couple of modifications I would recommend, having done them to my 78 T140V, which I've had for 31 years. The first is to replace the original 5/8" bore front master cylinder with a 13mm bore version. It fits in as a direct replacement, with all the same fittings, but gives a much better feel to the front brake, and 50% more leverage, effectively. No dearer than the standard size, and fairly widely available. The other is a permanent solution to the exhaust downpipe leaks. I had the exhaust ports machined to take the screw-in stubs, so that i could fit the clamp-over type downpipes. It gives a solid mounting, and no more exhaust gas leaks.
@nathgreen7872 күн бұрын
@relph3 hey mate great video just did mine it was bad thanks heaps but quick question on the brake side of rear wheel is there a spacer between wheel and brake setup? like the one on chain side that sits between wheel and swing arm not sure if i lost mine or if im loosing my mind
@relph32 күн бұрын
If you have lost a spacer on the brake side, between the wheel and the calliper mounting bracket. It sits in the the dust seal of the wheel up against the bearing. You will have lost it because you left it in when you took the wheel out of the swing arm, after which It dropped out unnoticed. This happened to me and I had to buy another.. If it is the this spacer the part number is H7653136. shop.italhusky.com/en/products/2012/nuda-900-900r/rear-wheel-132 This spacer is the same as the 2017 BMW f800R Part number 36 31 763136 www.bike-parts-bmw.co.uk/bmw-motorcycle/F%20800/2015/F_800_R_17_-0B54_0B64_/K73-0B54-0B64-/Wheels-and-tyres/Cast-rim-rear/7/36_2150/36/590140B54
@lesjones76178 күн бұрын
Top of the oil filter housing is very close to the bottom of the swinging arm??
@OldBiker13 күн бұрын
If you use semi synthetic oil but have not replaced the sludge trap and flushed all the oil ways you are asking for trouble, the synthetic oil uses a detergent which carries the dirt around with it and breaks down the existing sludge, so if any chunks of that sludge break away from the sludge trap it will be carried down and block the oil way to the big ends and you'll know about that when it happens. Nice bike though, what we the jets and slide # used in the carbs?
@relph311 күн бұрын
Yeah I get what you are saying about using modern semi or fully synthetic oils having the ability to loosen and keep in suspension the crud which used to build up in the engine and sludge trap. It is a risk using such modern detergent oils especially not knowing the service history of the bike etc. In my case I have had the clutch cover off and the rocker covers, also examined the oil tank and the gauze oil filter. All these areas were extremely clean with no signs of any solidified oil crud at all. So after fitting the external oil filter I have started to use Westway oil Semi Synthetic 20W50, which has an API SJ. The oil did get discoloured very quickly at first and I changed it after 300 miles, then 500 miles twice before returning to the standard 1000mile oil change intervals. I find I need to change the clutch oil more frequently. Although the clutch oil is topped up automatically by the engine oil, I find it gets very black and contaminated so I change it every 200 miles or so.
@relph311 күн бұрын
In reply to your question about my carbs jets and slide # I use: Amal Mk2 2930 L & R 30mm Bore 124/026 #25 Pilot Jet Air screw 1½ turns out 376/100 200 main Jet 124/026 #35 Choke Jet 2928/122 .105 Needle Jet (Brass) 2928/060 #3 Slide (New replacement Amal latest design which differs from the original) 2928/030 2C3 Needle (set to the top needle grove because the new slides created a too rich mixture) 2622/13535 Air Jet 3.5 (between velocity stack and carb body) 622/069 OE white none adjustable float Handlebar mounted fuel enrichment lever (cable operated choke) The exhaust down pipes are unbalanced and the end pipes are after mart pea shooters. I have tried this setup but with using the middle grove of the needle and 2 turns out of the Air screw but the bike ran a bit rich and would be a little hard to start after a good run if left for about half an hour or so. The engine not wanting to start with choke on but not wanting to start without choke. This setup would eventually cause the plugs to soot up and then a miss fire would occur.
@OldBiker11 күн бұрын
@@relph3 Thanks for all the info, the reason you don't find much dirt in the filters etc is because it all builds up in the sludge trap, have a look at this video and see the amount of hard crud that your semi synthetic oil will be breaking up and feeding to your big ends - kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y4B4y5Wdabm8qbw.html
@rvdvogt19 күн бұрын
Not a good idea and as Dave Whellers said very bad engineering practice! Spin on oil filters must always be on the pressure side of the pump.
@markbrennan469320 күн бұрын
What a stunning bike. A credit to you.Great machine. Thank you.
@bananabrooks383623 күн бұрын
Norton exhausts belong on Nortons.
@relph323 күн бұрын
Are you talking about the end pipes or the down pipes. Neither are OE Triumph or Norton design.
@bananabrooks383622 күн бұрын
The silencers of course.
@stevem538324 күн бұрын
I have to wonder if the original pump produces enough pressure to route the oil through the filter with enough volume.. The filter is essentially a restriction for what is originally a minimal oiling system. I've left my 66 TR6R stock and it's still running after all of these years with no bottom end service.
@DaveWhellersVintage29 күн бұрын
Sorry but that is a very very bad idea. It was correct on the return line before. Now you will create a massive problem and may distroy the engine by doing that. Its very bad enginering practice and do hope no one tries to do this. Put a Charlies filter in the tank if you have, they work ok and are desined to do that. But please swap this back to how it was originaly.
@rorybeaumont28 күн бұрын
Just to clarify you advocate having the filter on the pressurised side of the system that goes to the rockers and top of the frame/tank. The alternative would be from the base of the Frame/ Tank which is gravity fed and sucked into the engine ?
@DaveWhellersVintage28 күн бұрын
@@rorybeaumont All filters should be after the pump on the pressure side or tank retun line. Putting a filter on the inlet side will cause pump cavitation and may even collapese the lines. A gauze strainer on the inlet is fine and is all that is necessary. The bike is fitted with one already that just needs washing out.
@DaveWhellersVintage28 күн бұрын
@@rorybeaumont The Norton type spin on type oil filter MUST be connected to the return or pressure side from the pump. It is designed to do only that. It is not designed to work on the suction side of the pump as the pressure drop over that type of filter is pretty high and can result in immense low pressure cavitation issues occurring in the circuit, and even collapse flexible type hoses, especially at high engine speeds when you want the best oil flow over the bearings possible. . From Best Engineering practice, only a strainer free flow type filter should be fitted to the suction side of any pump. I believe some people us a Charlies type filter in the bottom of the oil column, but I would not recommend even that. You only need one oil filter of 10 to 15 microns in any circuit. Any others you include in the circuit are not doing anything other than restricting flow. I do hope you find this information of use.
@rorybeaumont28 күн бұрын
Thank you. As a layman that makes sense to me. I'm now curious why people say they can be connected the other way !
@TheReverb122 күн бұрын
Hi; I have a modified timing cover with the feed directly there like a car. In that system I had an external filter; on top of external filter mount have a device to screw the oil switch and the oil gauge line. Also have a N Hyde oil cooler plus a rotary pump. I put 10000km per year on these old bikes. I use it as transportation I am not a Sunday hopper...
@briangibbs51829 күн бұрын
Hello Derick. A great video. I'm just starting to take the year to clean up and work my own 79 T140E. Might I ask? How did you achieve your currently leak-free gasket surfaces? Thanks, Brian
@relph329 күн бұрын
If you are talking about the oil in frame filter sump plate. I stuck a sheet of medium sand paper to a flat work surface and spent about 1/2 an hour rubbing sump plate mating surface until it was flat. I put all the gaskets and internal oil filter back using silicone gadget, then waited until the silicone had set before refilling the bike with oil. If you join the Facebook Group "Triumph 650 & 750 Twins OIF" and search through my posts you will see pictures of me doing the sump plate. facebook.com/groups/315323709546199
@rorybeaumont29 күн бұрын
Hi Derick, Another interesting modification nicely presented. My bike is a 81 model and only a week or so ago I bought the same filter holder. I like your pipe routing. I'm thinking of using steel braided 10mm hoses. Did you keep the Top hat or Charlies filter in the sump ? Dave
@relph329 күн бұрын
Yes I have kept original filter in the sump. I probably could remove it but that would mean disturbing the currently leak free gasket surfaces. I cleaned it all out about 9 months ago.
@Segsy5928 күн бұрын
I think you meant in frame oil reservoir and not sump?
@MeYou-yz2yzАй бұрын
Beautiful bike but it ain't a Triumph if it don't leak oil. 😂
@EightSixxАй бұрын
any other known issue i should know about prior to buying one./
@relph3Ай бұрын
Just buy one! You will not regret it. I have the R version. Join the Facebook groups facebook.com/groups/nuda900/ facebook.com/groups/oznudas/
@PeacefulRallyCar-pw3csАй бұрын
1979 me and my high school buds used to hang out at the local shop. He had a triumph with a pink tank (champagne?). Prob anniversary edition. One fin on the head was broken. Thing sat there for months waiting for parts.
@nigelfisher3756Ай бұрын
Super job, looks really good. Very useful mods without overcomplicating things. Now, when do I drop my TR7RV round for similar treatment?
@paulwoods682Ай бұрын
That amount of movement on the chain over the sprocket can also be due to wear on the sprocket
@gwilliamwallaceАй бұрын
Gorgeous bike. I had friends with Triumphs back in the 70s and one day a buddy was having trouble getting his Bonneville started. I ride up on my Honda four and say, "I'll give it a go..." And he replied dourly after my first few futile kicks, "It's not a Honda."
@davidmacgregor5193Ай бұрын
I bought a brand new T140E in 1981, same colour scheme as yours, black and candy apple red, it was also a USA export model. The Bonneville replaced my 1977 TR7RV 'Tiger', I kept the Bonneville for thirteen months and I traded it in against a 1977 registered T160V 'Trident' with a Norman Hyde 871cc big bore kit. Those three machines were fairly reliable for everyday use, great to own and ride. Good luck with your Bonneville.
@p--nАй бұрын
If a chain deflects more than 10" from straight in an arc then its shot. 8" is passable. 6" is sound and serviceable.
@relph3Ай бұрын
Ok thank for that. Good tip..
@p--n29 күн бұрын
@@relph3 No problem Ralph. For those unsure this is a lateral deflection test that highlights sideways play in the links over the chains entire length.
@4418CARLOU21 күн бұрын
It depends on the length.
@Segsy59Ай бұрын
Looking forward to your report after a road test.
@relph3Ай бұрын
Yes, I am 99% confident it will be ok but until I ride the bike I can't be sure. I do think the chain guard will snag if I don't alter it somehow.
@briangibbs518Ай бұрын
I do like what you've done with your wiring and main fuse block. I've just bought a 79 T140E. I don't know how many owners it's gone through. The wiring on the bike just looks a mess right now. Our Canadian economy is so bad right now it's made for a good buyer's market. I've bought a couple of older cars and the one had a mouse nest in the main relay box. What a nightmare it was. All's good purrs like a kitten now. I'm a retired x tradesman so I have the time. With the help of some mates and a few beers, we got the bike indoors. Thank you for the video. I'll save it for my files to review now and then. I've given myself a year and a pension budget. You've helped me make up my mind I'll start with wiring. While slowly amassing parts I want and need. Cheers mate ride safe.
@relph3Ай бұрын
The wiring on my T140E was also a bit of a mess. So I just went through everything and put it all back to OE almost wire by wire. Message me on my Facebook and I'll send you what I've got on file.. Just look my full name "Derick Relph" up on Facebook..
@briangibbs518Ай бұрын
@@relph3 Thank you Derick I will. So many butt connectors and push-in connectors and wires that just end.
@rover100bunsonАй бұрын
Ah,heard it and its lovely
@rover100bunsonАй бұрын
Lad in our town had the same bike,to my miind the best looking production bike made,love to hear it
@philmuskett265Ай бұрын
That's really good, mate. A real credit to you. Well done. Mind how ya go.
@The_Daliban2 ай бұрын
It would be so great if there was a full service video out there with a step by step guide since you kind of have to do it yourself. Maybe even a series with everything you need to do every year and so on. The community needs it
@Pikestnt2 ай бұрын
Like the GPS clock. Must make a change from the speedo needle bouncing around 😀
@relph32 ай бұрын
The original Speedo not only bounced around but suddenly got stuck on 60mph. The delicate spring attached to the needle had somehow got tangled up... The GPS speedo is accurate and I was able to program it to record the mileage starting from where the original one had been.
@WestMalvernMummers4 ай бұрын
No mask or goggles while you're cutting and sanding the PIR? 😮
@relph34 ай бұрын
Yeah, I know I should wear all the right PPE. I can't be bothered most of the time. In this case, I didn't even think about using a mask, goggles, gloves etc. I don't think the dust from PIR will be a problem really.
@sterryuk51405 ай бұрын
Do you need to leave a gap for airflow between the board and exterior tiles
@relph35 ай бұрын
No. There is plenty of gaps between the roofing slates. Even if driving rain got behind the slates any wet would soon dry out.
@user-es5wk3dp8h6 ай бұрын
Having to revisit it a few times to make it fit. Having it bulge and snap on a hidden nail. You sir, have just got yourself another subscriber by being honest and showing a real-world piece of (good) work, rather than what most show - a lot of ‘everything goes perfect first time’ stuff that makes newbies feel disheartened when reality strikes. Well done my friend, great video. Rob.
@marshyshark17 ай бұрын
Thank you for these great tutorials Derick. I've got the same issue with the 1st floor bay window on my art deco (1920) detached property in Christchurch, Dorset, and will be doing the same shortly.
@user-tc3pf7sp9j7 ай бұрын
Блин, мне такой на Нуду нужен ! А то на заднем со второй на третью побаиваюсь переключаться.
@MP-ee9jw7 ай бұрын
Would this type of work normally be done by a carpenter or is there specialist builders for it?
@aaronhicks12607 ай бұрын
Did you finish the project? Did it solve the damp, is the room warmer? Thinking of doing similar with my bay window.
@relph37 ай бұрын
I have finished insulating the window bay. Prior to me doing so, the window bay was not only badly insulated from the cold but also there was unacceptable noise levels of traffic from the nearby main road which stopped us using the room. Insulating and sealing up the window bay has made a big difference. For example if I opened the window prior to insulating the sound levels from outside hardly changed. The whole room is now warmer and quieter. I can't remember having any damp issues and I would recommend you do the same if you have similar issues. Originally my window bay was built of stud without any cavity either. It was basically Lath and plaster on the inside of the stud and lath and slate roof tiles on the outside of the stud.
@rickywanless22398 ай бұрын
Did you push the insulation against the brick work? Surely it's best not to as it would create condensation, you should leave atleast a 30mm air flow gap
@071Rishi9 ай бұрын
my dream bike
@PedroDVC11 ай бұрын
Just bought this same bike and will be picking it up next week. Can't wait!!
@relph311 ай бұрын
You will not be disappointed with this bike. I still really like mine. I got an average of 78 mpg on an over 200mile trip last Friday. It's a light easy to manage bike with lots of power too.
@PedroDVC11 ай бұрын
@@relph3 awesome... I was all about the 2014 Triumph Speed Triple but I don't need a motorcycle just for performance... I want some sportiness, some traveling and enjoying going to work on a bike and a roadster suits me fine... I still want an R9T and an R1200R lol but for now, it's this one. Thanks for replying and by the way I love the Nuda ;)
@relph311 ай бұрын
@@PedroDVC I bought the F800R because of the experience of owning the Nuda900R, they share the same engine design which is bullet proof and the same to service too. Do you know the engine has three con. rods. lol
@PedroDVC11 ай бұрын
@@relph3 Yes, I did know they share the same engine design, but still learning more about it. Thanks for letting me know!
@PedroDVC10 ай бұрын
Just to let you know you were right! Very happy with the bike. Came with the extras I wanted, a bigger spoiler, Akrapovic, windshield, BMW panniers.. sounds, and rides marvelously. thanks!
@jmnatron11 ай бұрын
Excelente
@paulgianni Жыл бұрын
Thank you for your video. I have an opportunity to get one and want to see if it's worth my time and money.
@relph3 Жыл бұрын
I still really like my F800R. It is a fantastic for all round use and is very reliable too.
@davidcastro9373 Жыл бұрын
Hey mate, have a similar issue. Can't the headlight unit be pulled apart? Cracked open somehow?
@suitedrider4066 Жыл бұрын
Link for these mirrors?
@eskimo427 Жыл бұрын
I have a 2013 F800GT which I started running on super unleaded and found the vibrations weren't as bad. It takes a tank or two for it to settle down.
@David-Field.Stuff01 Жыл бұрын
Very interesting and informative. Music is too loud and distracts from what you are saying.
@David-Field.Stuff01 Жыл бұрын
Another tremendously interesting video. That blasted music is way too loud.
@David-Field.Stuff01 Жыл бұрын
This is a tremendous set of videos. Superbly explained and illustrated. However there is one small adjustment I'd suggest (from a viewers point of view), please instruct the Minstrel to stop the repetitive tickling on his guitar while you are talking. Its just loud enough to be really annoying.
@GARdotETH Жыл бұрын
Do you have a link for the seat bag? Wouldn't mind getting rid of my bulky back box and using something like that :)
@relph3 Жыл бұрын
Here is the link. Surprisingly, it is still a similar price to what I paid. www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07T8H8CWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
@GARdotETH Жыл бұрын
@@relph3 Thank you :)
@maj6150 Жыл бұрын
Did you add a vapour barrier or did the foil on the insulation act as the vapour barrier?
@relph3 Жыл бұрын
I don't think it necessary for a vapour barrier in this situation.
@samuelgrainge2297 Жыл бұрын
great vid. would be graet to see how this functioned 2 years in! thanks
@vmrksa Жыл бұрын
Hi! Great video! It is good for 2 up trips? Tnx
@sgagic Жыл бұрын
You have a beatiful bike sir. And, way to go, for you helping others. Bless you.
Пікірлер
There are a couple of modifications I would recommend, having done them to my 78 T140V, which I've had for 31 years. The first is to replace the original 5/8" bore front master cylinder with a 13mm bore version. It fits in as a direct replacement, with all the same fittings, but gives a much better feel to the front brake, and 50% more leverage, effectively. No dearer than the standard size, and fairly widely available. The other is a permanent solution to the exhaust downpipe leaks. I had the exhaust ports machined to take the screw-in stubs, so that i could fit the clamp-over type downpipes. It gives a solid mounting, and no more exhaust gas leaks.
@relph3 hey mate great video just did mine it was bad thanks heaps but quick question on the brake side of rear wheel is there a spacer between wheel and brake setup? like the one on chain side that sits between wheel and swing arm not sure if i lost mine or if im loosing my mind
If you have lost a spacer on the brake side, between the wheel and the calliper mounting bracket. It sits in the the dust seal of the wheel up against the bearing. You will have lost it because you left it in when you took the wheel out of the swing arm, after which It dropped out unnoticed. This happened to me and I had to buy another.. If it is the this spacer the part number is H7653136. shop.italhusky.com/en/products/2012/nuda-900-900r/rear-wheel-132 This spacer is the same as the 2017 BMW f800R Part number 36 31 763136 www.bike-parts-bmw.co.uk/bmw-motorcycle/F%20800/2015/F_800_R_17_-0B54_0B64_/K73-0B54-0B64-/Wheels-and-tyres/Cast-rim-rear/7/36_2150/36/590140B54
Top of the oil filter housing is very close to the bottom of the swinging arm??
If you use semi synthetic oil but have not replaced the sludge trap and flushed all the oil ways you are asking for trouble, the synthetic oil uses a detergent which carries the dirt around with it and breaks down the existing sludge, so if any chunks of that sludge break away from the sludge trap it will be carried down and block the oil way to the big ends and you'll know about that when it happens. Nice bike though, what we the jets and slide # used in the carbs?
Yeah I get what you are saying about using modern semi or fully synthetic oils having the ability to loosen and keep in suspension the crud which used to build up in the engine and sludge trap. It is a risk using such modern detergent oils especially not knowing the service history of the bike etc. In my case I have had the clutch cover off and the rocker covers, also examined the oil tank and the gauze oil filter. All these areas were extremely clean with no signs of any solidified oil crud at all. So after fitting the external oil filter I have started to use Westway oil Semi Synthetic 20W50, which has an API SJ. The oil did get discoloured very quickly at first and I changed it after 300 miles, then 500 miles twice before returning to the standard 1000mile oil change intervals. I find I need to change the clutch oil more frequently. Although the clutch oil is topped up automatically by the engine oil, I find it gets very black and contaminated so I change it every 200 miles or so.
In reply to your question about my carbs jets and slide # I use: Amal Mk2 2930 L & R 30mm Bore 124/026 #25 Pilot Jet Air screw 1½ turns out 376/100 200 main Jet 124/026 #35 Choke Jet 2928/122 .105 Needle Jet (Brass) 2928/060 #3 Slide (New replacement Amal latest design which differs from the original) 2928/030 2C3 Needle (set to the top needle grove because the new slides created a too rich mixture) 2622/13535 Air Jet 3.5 (between velocity stack and carb body) 622/069 OE white none adjustable float Handlebar mounted fuel enrichment lever (cable operated choke) The exhaust down pipes are unbalanced and the end pipes are after mart pea shooters. I have tried this setup but with using the middle grove of the needle and 2 turns out of the Air screw but the bike ran a bit rich and would be a little hard to start after a good run if left for about half an hour or so. The engine not wanting to start with choke on but not wanting to start without choke. This setup would eventually cause the plugs to soot up and then a miss fire would occur.
@@relph3 Thanks for all the info, the reason you don't find much dirt in the filters etc is because it all builds up in the sludge trap, have a look at this video and see the amount of hard crud that your semi synthetic oil will be breaking up and feeding to your big ends - kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y4B4y5Wdabm8qbw.html
Not a good idea and as Dave Whellers said very bad engineering practice! Spin on oil filters must always be on the pressure side of the pump.
What a stunning bike. A credit to you.Great machine. Thank you.
Norton exhausts belong on Nortons.
Are you talking about the end pipes or the down pipes. Neither are OE Triumph or Norton design.
The silencers of course.
I have to wonder if the original pump produces enough pressure to route the oil through the filter with enough volume.. The filter is essentially a restriction for what is originally a minimal oiling system. I've left my 66 TR6R stock and it's still running after all of these years with no bottom end service.
Sorry but that is a very very bad idea. It was correct on the return line before. Now you will create a massive problem and may distroy the engine by doing that. Its very bad enginering practice and do hope no one tries to do this. Put a Charlies filter in the tank if you have, they work ok and are desined to do that. But please swap this back to how it was originaly.
Just to clarify you advocate having the filter on the pressurised side of the system that goes to the rockers and top of the frame/tank. The alternative would be from the base of the Frame/ Tank which is gravity fed and sucked into the engine ?
@@rorybeaumont All filters should be after the pump on the pressure side or tank retun line. Putting a filter on the inlet side will cause pump cavitation and may even collapese the lines. A gauze strainer on the inlet is fine and is all that is necessary. The bike is fitted with one already that just needs washing out.
@@rorybeaumont The Norton type spin on type oil filter MUST be connected to the return or pressure side from the pump. It is designed to do only that. It is not designed to work on the suction side of the pump as the pressure drop over that type of filter is pretty high and can result in immense low pressure cavitation issues occurring in the circuit, and even collapse flexible type hoses, especially at high engine speeds when you want the best oil flow over the bearings possible. . From Best Engineering practice, only a strainer free flow type filter should be fitted to the suction side of any pump. I believe some people us a Charlies type filter in the bottom of the oil column, but I would not recommend even that. You only need one oil filter of 10 to 15 microns in any circuit. Any others you include in the circuit are not doing anything other than restricting flow. I do hope you find this information of use.
Thank you. As a layman that makes sense to me. I'm now curious why people say they can be connected the other way !
Hi; I have a modified timing cover with the feed directly there like a car. In that system I had an external filter; on top of external filter mount have a device to screw the oil switch and the oil gauge line. Also have a N Hyde oil cooler plus a rotary pump. I put 10000km per year on these old bikes. I use it as transportation I am not a Sunday hopper...
Hello Derick. A great video. I'm just starting to take the year to clean up and work my own 79 T140E. Might I ask? How did you achieve your currently leak-free gasket surfaces? Thanks, Brian
If you are talking about the oil in frame filter sump plate. I stuck a sheet of medium sand paper to a flat work surface and spent about 1/2 an hour rubbing sump plate mating surface until it was flat. I put all the gaskets and internal oil filter back using silicone gadget, then waited until the silicone had set before refilling the bike with oil. If you join the Facebook Group "Triumph 650 & 750 Twins OIF" and search through my posts you will see pictures of me doing the sump plate. facebook.com/groups/315323709546199
Hi Derick, Another interesting modification nicely presented. My bike is a 81 model and only a week or so ago I bought the same filter holder. I like your pipe routing. I'm thinking of using steel braided 10mm hoses. Did you keep the Top hat or Charlies filter in the sump ? Dave
Yes I have kept original filter in the sump. I probably could remove it but that would mean disturbing the currently leak free gasket surfaces. I cleaned it all out about 9 months ago.
I think you meant in frame oil reservoir and not sump?
Beautiful bike but it ain't a Triumph if it don't leak oil. 😂
any other known issue i should know about prior to buying one./
Just buy one! You will not regret it. I have the R version. Join the Facebook groups facebook.com/groups/nuda900/ facebook.com/groups/oznudas/
1979 me and my high school buds used to hang out at the local shop. He had a triumph with a pink tank (champagne?). Prob anniversary edition. One fin on the head was broken. Thing sat there for months waiting for parts.
Super job, looks really good. Very useful mods without overcomplicating things. Now, when do I drop my TR7RV round for similar treatment?
That amount of movement on the chain over the sprocket can also be due to wear on the sprocket
Gorgeous bike. I had friends with Triumphs back in the 70s and one day a buddy was having trouble getting his Bonneville started. I ride up on my Honda four and say, "I'll give it a go..." And he replied dourly after my first few futile kicks, "It's not a Honda."
I bought a brand new T140E in 1981, same colour scheme as yours, black and candy apple red, it was also a USA export model. The Bonneville replaced my 1977 TR7RV 'Tiger', I kept the Bonneville for thirteen months and I traded it in against a 1977 registered T160V 'Trident' with a Norman Hyde 871cc big bore kit. Those three machines were fairly reliable for everyday use, great to own and ride. Good luck with your Bonneville.
If a chain deflects more than 10" from straight in an arc then its shot. 8" is passable. 6" is sound and serviceable.
Ok thank for that. Good tip..
@@relph3 No problem Ralph. For those unsure this is a lateral deflection test that highlights sideways play in the links over the chains entire length.
It depends on the length.
Looking forward to your report after a road test.
Yes, I am 99% confident it will be ok but until I ride the bike I can't be sure. I do think the chain guard will snag if I don't alter it somehow.
I do like what you've done with your wiring and main fuse block. I've just bought a 79 T140E. I don't know how many owners it's gone through. The wiring on the bike just looks a mess right now. Our Canadian economy is so bad right now it's made for a good buyer's market. I've bought a couple of older cars and the one had a mouse nest in the main relay box. What a nightmare it was. All's good purrs like a kitten now. I'm a retired x tradesman so I have the time. With the help of some mates and a few beers, we got the bike indoors. Thank you for the video. I'll save it for my files to review now and then. I've given myself a year and a pension budget. You've helped me make up my mind I'll start with wiring. While slowly amassing parts I want and need. Cheers mate ride safe.
The wiring on my T140E was also a bit of a mess. So I just went through everything and put it all back to OE almost wire by wire. Message me on my Facebook and I'll send you what I've got on file.. Just look my full name "Derick Relph" up on Facebook..
@@relph3 Thank you Derick I will. So many butt connectors and push-in connectors and wires that just end.
Ah,heard it and its lovely
Lad in our town had the same bike,to my miind the best looking production bike made,love to hear it
That's really good, mate. A real credit to you. Well done. Mind how ya go.
It would be so great if there was a full service video out there with a step by step guide since you kind of have to do it yourself. Maybe even a series with everything you need to do every year and so on. The community needs it
Like the GPS clock. Must make a change from the speedo needle bouncing around 😀
The original Speedo not only bounced around but suddenly got stuck on 60mph. The delicate spring attached to the needle had somehow got tangled up... The GPS speedo is accurate and I was able to program it to record the mileage starting from where the original one had been.
No mask or goggles while you're cutting and sanding the PIR? 😮
Yeah, I know I should wear all the right PPE. I can't be bothered most of the time. In this case, I didn't even think about using a mask, goggles, gloves etc. I don't think the dust from PIR will be a problem really.
Do you need to leave a gap for airflow between the board and exterior tiles
No. There is plenty of gaps between the roofing slates. Even if driving rain got behind the slates any wet would soon dry out.
Having to revisit it a few times to make it fit. Having it bulge and snap on a hidden nail. You sir, have just got yourself another subscriber by being honest and showing a real-world piece of (good) work, rather than what most show - a lot of ‘everything goes perfect first time’ stuff that makes newbies feel disheartened when reality strikes. Well done my friend, great video. Rob.
Thank you for these great tutorials Derick. I've got the same issue with the 1st floor bay window on my art deco (1920) detached property in Christchurch, Dorset, and will be doing the same shortly.
Блин, мне такой на Нуду нужен ! А то на заднем со второй на третью побаиваюсь переключаться.
Would this type of work normally be done by a carpenter or is there specialist builders for it?
Did you finish the project? Did it solve the damp, is the room warmer? Thinking of doing similar with my bay window.
I have finished insulating the window bay. Prior to me doing so, the window bay was not only badly insulated from the cold but also there was unacceptable noise levels of traffic from the nearby main road which stopped us using the room. Insulating and sealing up the window bay has made a big difference. For example if I opened the window prior to insulating the sound levels from outside hardly changed. The whole room is now warmer and quieter. I can't remember having any damp issues and I would recommend you do the same if you have similar issues. Originally my window bay was built of stud without any cavity either. It was basically Lath and plaster on the inside of the stud and lath and slate roof tiles on the outside of the stud.
Did you push the insulation against the brick work? Surely it's best not to as it would create condensation, you should leave atleast a 30mm air flow gap
my dream bike
Just bought this same bike and will be picking it up next week. Can't wait!!
You will not be disappointed with this bike. I still really like mine. I got an average of 78 mpg on an over 200mile trip last Friday. It's a light easy to manage bike with lots of power too.
@@relph3 awesome... I was all about the 2014 Triumph Speed Triple but I don't need a motorcycle just for performance... I want some sportiness, some traveling and enjoying going to work on a bike and a roadster suits me fine... I still want an R9T and an R1200R lol but for now, it's this one. Thanks for replying and by the way I love the Nuda ;)
@@PedroDVC I bought the F800R because of the experience of owning the Nuda900R, they share the same engine design which is bullet proof and the same to service too. Do you know the engine has three con. rods. lol
@@relph3 Yes, I did know they share the same engine design, but still learning more about it. Thanks for letting me know!
Just to let you know you were right! Very happy with the bike. Came with the extras I wanted, a bigger spoiler, Akrapovic, windshield, BMW panniers.. sounds, and rides marvelously. thanks!
Excelente
Thank you for your video. I have an opportunity to get one and want to see if it's worth my time and money.
I still really like my F800R. It is a fantastic for all round use and is very reliable too.
Hey mate, have a similar issue. Can't the headlight unit be pulled apart? Cracked open somehow?
Link for these mirrors?
I have a 2013 F800GT which I started running on super unleaded and found the vibrations weren't as bad. It takes a tank or two for it to settle down.
Very interesting and informative. Music is too loud and distracts from what you are saying.
Another tremendously interesting video. That blasted music is way too loud.
This is a tremendous set of videos. Superbly explained and illustrated. However there is one small adjustment I'd suggest (from a viewers point of view), please instruct the Minstrel to stop the repetitive tickling on his guitar while you are talking. Its just loud enough to be really annoying.
Do you have a link for the seat bag? Wouldn't mind getting rid of my bulky back box and using something like that :)
Here is the link. Surprisingly, it is still a similar price to what I paid. www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07T8H8CWS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
@@relph3 Thank you :)
Did you add a vapour barrier or did the foil on the insulation act as the vapour barrier?
I don't think it necessary for a vapour barrier in this situation.
great vid. would be graet to see how this functioned 2 years in! thanks
Hi! Great video! It is good for 2 up trips? Tnx
You have a beatiful bike sir. And, way to go, for you helping others. Bless you.
Is that a bay window upstairs?