Hi, I'm Dave. My channel is all about big power, old machinery, antique fans, antique refrigeration equipment, and world travels. I travel to remote locations as a troubleshooter and commissioning / integration engineer for a large equipment manufacturer.
Here share some of my worklife and hobbies.
I'm also on Facebook; facebook.com/turbokinetic
I'm thankful for any positive, insightful, on-topic comments and meaningful discussion. Please comment if you feel like it! I must leave one word of warning. I harbor an extreme dislike for politics, and have zero tolerance for trolls and "negative Nancy" comments. Do not discuss politics in my comments. Any politics, troll posts, negative comments, or anything I just plain don't like will be deleted without fanfare. If you're even halfway concerned that I may see your post as not constructive, expect it gone.
Anyway thanks for looking at my channel and I hope it's entertaining and educational for you!
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I appreciate this wow 7 years ago! Ive got a question at the 14:26 point when you wired up the bridge diode. I've got the exact same machine and I've got the new bridge diodes, but I'm not 100% sure of wiring it There are three fins/tabs in the same orientation. One is labeled as '+' ...I think you leave that unoccupied, One is labeled a/c, the other 2 are labeled '~'. You've got the a/c fin attached to the negative wire clip, and the 2 selenium wires attached to each of the '~'. Am I right to conclude it doesn't matter which winding attaches to the '~'? It's alternating current going into the bridge diode, and comes out as direct current.. Does that sound right? Thank you for this video!
Thanks for the warnings!
Thank you for this video. I was hoping to find a way to make these big holes without removing the doors. That is a manual knockout hole punch.
Glad this helped; and thank you so much for commenting on one of my older videos. I still have the Nova, as well.
THANKS!!
What do you do if the line going up is plugged some and not letting enough refrigerant up to cool enough all else works well.
It's unlikely that the line is partially plugged. Normally if it is blocked it's almost complete. If, however, it is blocked; the best repair is to replace the line. More than likely the problem is that the system is low on refrigerant.
Thanks, I left it plugged in 10 hours, it was about 51f inside.
Should use it as a shop dust collector. I’ve seen them used in planning mills and as combustion blowers for boilers in mills
It could be used for that! I think the use in the original factory was for conveying wood ships, actually.
I can’t get my fathers to start the compressor. How can I get the compressor started and where can I get a new overload breaker
If the compressor isn't able to start (but it tries) then the likely problem is rust in the start-relay. If it doesn't even try to move, at all, then you may have a thermostat problem. The overload breaker can be sourced from a Supco RO41 device. You could use that whole device to replace the start and overload unit, but those do have side effects.
Great video - very informative! I picked up one of these last week from an auction (prob a newer model - it has an Elstat controller) but it also is not cooling. Both the condenser fan and compressor are running so I suspect it is a refrigerant blockage or leak. That exceeds my capabilities as a DIYer so I'll likely call a tech out to get it cooling again. Nevertheless, I plan to replace the start components as you recommended so it'll keep running - and save the compressor. Those things are expensive! Any recommendations on where to get those start components or any other parts for these coolers? Many thanks!
My cruise control module would just start slowing down and then it culminated in a complete failure with the cruise light coming on and nothing happening. I replaced my unit with a remanufactured one and that fixed the problem. I've taken the old one apart and there doesn't seem to be any debris or visual problems. I suspect one or 2 of the solenoids have failed. I suppose that's rare, but it could happen.
Cool sounding motor and really interesting oilers. Love it!
Thank you! It is the bigger brother of the little 1/4 HP Century on my Frigidaire M5-2.
@davida1hiwaaynet on the old Centrury motors what is the "No." Nomenclature meaning on the bottom right of the tags? I have a fan model 230 with "No. L-1" on it seems like a precursor to serial numbers I'm curious what it means. These motors are of an amazing design. Tho they are brittle they run like I've never seen or heard. I like them.
Just a quick question my frigid air is in good condition I used it and it's not getting cold what do I need to do to get it fixed I have called everyone in the area that works on appliances no one deals with it thank you so much I don't want to get rid of it I absolutely love it
Hi Tiffany. Please reach out to me via e-mail and we can talk about some troubleshooting. My e-mail is shown on my channel "about" page.
Hi I just flushed out my evaporator on my grand national but for some reason when I blow solvent and air through the smaller line solvent doesn’t blow out only air. But if I blow through the bigger line solvent comes out. Do you know why? Btw the orfice tube was broke off in the line. Do you think it could be stuck down in the evaporator? I noticed when I charged my ac the low side would go to 35 and high side 0
Hello. I am trying to locate the cable needed to connect to GM ALDL OBD1 and to the pc. EXTREME ALDL adaptor is recommended, but seems no longer avalilable. Thank you in advance.
Thanks for the information. I need help getting the housing apart to replace the wires. Please reach out if you would please. Thanks Damon
I have the same model on my sunporch, It starts up every time
At least it didn’t end up in the metal bin. If that machine saves another or two its parts well spent.
great video. now for the challenge.
Thank you very much for this video, it was a great help. I am in the process of restoring a similar Westinghouse fridge from the 1950s and the refrigerating unit seems to be identical to the one in your video. The fridge has stood unused for several decades, but I could start it up allright. The compressor ran quite smoothly and the tubing round the freezer box got cold. The compressor and cooling rack were a bit rusty and it took some time to clean them up and remove the rust. When I was just about done, I noticed that a very narrow tubing coming out of the end of the filter (or whatever it is) behind the compressor was broken. The compressor took a bit of shaking during the cleaning and I guess that is what broke the tubing. It may have been close to breaking at the beginning, since when I turned the compressor on before I started the cleaning for real, I noticed white vapour coming up intermittedly from behind the compressor, where the filter is. Be that as it may, the tube is broken and the cooling medium has in all likelihood been contaminated. I would greatly appreciate any advice about how to proceed. Apart from repairing the tube, I guess I have to completely recharge the system.
Have an old Dayton attic fan and it also has a bimetallic temperature cutout on it.
This video on top of the comments for it are golden. Thank you so much
I have never needed a puller on any of the following Buick engines. 198, 225, 300, 340, 350, 400, 401, 425, 430 or 455. I wonder if I will with a 3800 series II. Every Ford or Chevy engine I absolutely had to use a puller, not just to loosen them, but all the way off.
wow. I was wondering if anyone knew how these things work. wow. guess i found him. I think my relay isn't working on my 81. New antenna purchased 3 times. When I hook it up I show 3 wires with voltage. Or nothing. So pretty sure I'm shorting out the antenna. I've ordered a fourth antenna so that when I can figure out whats going on with my relay I can install it and it will work. My guess is there is no one selling these relays any longer and even a used one would be very expensive. So the alternative is to find just a relay that works like this one and rewire it. Yet I have no clue how it is wired or really what to do next. I guess I could get a cheap pwr antenna that has red black and blue wire to radio. Yet these seldom hold up. I wish I could figure out how to make this type you show here to work with either a new way to wire it or see if I can one day find a used relay that works. So frustrating. ive got wires going everywhere on this 81.
What Freon are you using. 134 A? Also did you replace oil in compressor with PAG?
Hello Pat. The refrigerant is R152A. The oil is original. It's a proprietary mineral oil GE used back in the day. It can be replaced with alkylbenzene oil but never POE as that will swell and damage some of the natural materials used in the compressors from this era. These units are not designed for a refrigerant / oil combination which mix together. GE learned this trying to use Freon-12 and mineral oil in these, and ended up staying with SO2 to mitigate the oil and refrigerant mixing.
Great video! Always a pleasure, thank you!
Thank you!
Great video! Was that a type R relay?
It's actually a "Type N" relay. It is basically a Type E relay with an added overload breaker attached externally. The Type R relay has the start and overload inside the same housing. The Type R are smaller and have a stepped shaped housing.
Excellent relay testing
Thank you!
Great video - short and to the point - a rare thing on KZread!
Thanks! I recoded it on my phone and didn't edit, just uploaded.
Did you make that outlet thingy?
Is it the 1st generation 2.8 multiport engine?
It is, I think. Not an expert on the engine revisions. It's the iron-head 60 degree engine, with the HO series heads, which have the triangle mark on the ends. The bottom end is a 3.1L from a newer engine.
Hello there. Ptc relay. I think I just burned up my original hot wire relay. Can you give a link to the ptc relay you mentioned that you would use? Thank you
For the small horsepower compressors like the 1/8 HP in this unit - use a Supco RO81. Don't order from any cheap overseas sites as fakes abound. Go to a local supply house or order from a reputable industrial place like Zoro dot com.
@davida1hiwaaynet thank you for the information!! I love my old beer and pizza basement fridge. I hope this will be the answer for replacing the HOT WIRE Relay.
How is it now?
It's actually still like this; sitting where I left it. :(
Replace the compressor with an inverter compressor with low energy consumption and no noise
ROFLMAO!!! Not a chance that throw-away garbage will go in any vintage item I repair.
I just bought one of those, they look really neat
They are neat little fans!
@davida1hiwaaynet windings are burnt out and open in mine bummer.. looks like it failed fairly early in the fans existence then it must have been shoved in a closet for decades it's condition otherwise is absolutely fantastic right down to the original cord and plug
What’s that copper line right in front of compressor. Mine is split and clamped off. Everything comes on thinking this is my issue
John, there is a copper line coming from the compressor which is crimped closed. There is also another similar line on the high pressure side of the system. These are called "process stems" and are where the factory evacuated and charged the system. When we repair these systems, often we cut off the crushed section and install a Schrader service valve on this tube.
Thank You. I have a 1995 Buick. Rick
You really know your work 👌Great job
Thank you for the kind comment!
Never did I think I'd be ooogling over vintage service manuals... yet here I am. 🤩🤩🤩
Nice vid ....... Unfortunately this won't last few days running CO2 @ 4x pressure of R134a 🙈
Thanks. Just to be sure you realize.... this is engineered from the get-go to be an R744 system. It was never an R134A system. It's already several years old and still works. If it were engineered for R134A and charged with R744; the compressor casing would have probably exploded and resulted in a fatality.
@@davida1hiwaaynetbrazed copper coil condensor ends and brazed copper is not suitable for 30 bar CO2 discharge pressures.......... It will fail in service 🤦
@@fenflyer Actually; they make copper tubing of different specifications and wall thicknesses. As hard as it may be for you to believe, this is a factory built unit and is engineered for R744. While they are not considered reliable by most standards, tubing failures are not a problem.
Had this problem on an 03 taurus...because there is literally zero room to work, i struggled to push the new bearing/clutch assembly onto the shaft. So..the spacers could never get, and be correct. I think im going to have to pull the whole compressor, set gap, then reinstall, then change dryer(bc i opened the system) and charge. Gotta love how todays engineers dont leve space for any job, right. Didnt know this little tool exsisted tho. Thanks for that info. I do love the stick, ive seen others use screwdrivers, and im ducking like NOOOOOO projectile screwdriver cuz!😂
Idk where you live but, if its near me, im coming over with some Thai food and some beer. This was brilliant and so well done! I just want to watch as you do your work. Ill hand you tools and shut up. I appreciate how thorough you are and your attention to safety! Brilliant!
Thanks for the kind words!
Do know know what years GE used this style of compressor? I've been on the lookout for one to replace the compressor in my 50s GE wall-mount (locked up) but I'm not sure where to look. The fridge you sourced it from looked late 60s from what I could see.
I believe it was used until the mid 1960's but I am not 100% sure about that. They used a similar-appearing design in the 50's which failed quite a bit (probably what yours has) but the good ones were 60's.
I have this exact refrigerator with a similar problem. I have replaced the gasket which is soft and pliable. My problem is the wear on the door hinges causes the top of the door to leak and frost the thing up. Do you know of a source for replacement hinges? I have shimmed mine up and it helped a lot but one of the hinges is broken and the other is worn about an 1/8th inch. Thank you for any help you may have.
That is very frustrating. The hinges for these are breakable and nobody has them. Your best bet is to replace the gasket again, with a larger profile foam gasket which will fill the gap in spite of the uneven hinges.
This was an interesting project to follow. It was good to see how you used your knowledge and experience to bring together all those different parts into a working unit. Usually, I repair and restore telephones and sometimes radios and have to do the same thing. However, like yourself I really like to keep things as authentic and original as possible. I came across your channel while searching for info on a 1949 Westinghouse refrigerator that I am refurbishing. She works, just not well. Since I don't have any experience with refrigeration, I called in a tech. to check her out. The fella that came out diagnosed the problem as a low charge on the freon but couldn't do a recharge or top up, not because he wouldn't but because his repair company doesn't do that work. So, after searching around the area, I believe I have to do it myself. I would like to top up the current charge of (F-12) r12 with HFC 152A. So onto my question. Can r12 and HFC-152A be mixed together in a refrigeration system?
Hi Thomas. Thanks for your comment! I appreciate that greatly coming from a fellow restorer. As for the Westinghouse, they can slowly lose their refrigerant around the compressor terminals since they are not glass fused hermetic seals like the General Electric models of the same era. As for mixing R-12 and R-152A yes they will work as a blend and in fact Carrier sold a blend of these two compounds under the designation R-500. The Westinghouse is fully compatible with pure R-12 and also pure R-152A so it will function with a blend of the two. You may notice a step in the frost pattern on the evaporator (depending on the design and the proportions of the blend) due to evaporation temperature glide, but it will absolutely work. Having said that, you would be much better off to evacuate the system down to less than 400 microns Hg and start with a known good charge. This is because as the system leaks down it can run in a vacuum, and allow air to seep in. By evacuating it you ensure that any air or moisture has been removed. But, if you can't do that then it should work fine with a top-off charge; if and only if the system is still dry and air-free.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Thank you so much for the detailed reply. As I don’t have the equipment to recover refrigerant I will probably top it off. The info about the compressor slowly leaking around the terminals explains a lot. A couple of repair companies were very insistent that a sealed system could not leak even when I reminded them that the fridge was 75 years old. Again, thank you for the info. 🙂
@@thomaskrystaosborn4256 That is a shame they weren't in touch with reality. These normally don't leak but can seep. If it leaks down again in a few weeks, it will need more in-depth troubleshooting but one top-off isn't a bad idea.
in my research, mixing them to get something like R500 has some desirable properties. I've never had a project to try it on as I keep a few things topped up with real 12 and other things straight 152. We are so lucky that 152 is available since it is actually really darn good and you don't really have to worry about wasting it since the normal use case is spraying it out anyway!
HELLO MR DAVID I HAVEN,T HEARD FROM YOU MY DAUGHTER GOT A HOLD OF YOU I HAVE MONITOR TOP REWIRED IVAN FROM ILLINOIS
Nice work.
Looks similar to the compressor on my 1958 GE Swingline Fridge. Great work.
Thank you!
Poly tube on the foam can - I have done that occasionally - one time tube came off and foam splattered everywhere including me. Luckily was wearing safety goggles *as I always do with foam and spray paint).
Oh yeah that foam can make a huge mess! Thankfully the poly tubing stayed connected for me.
Outstanding job David. I wish I had your skills. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you. Happy you enjoyed seeing this come together.
@@davida1hiwaaynet Heck yeah. I enjoy real videos, not that fake crap.
those old General Electric fridges were work horses I used to work at appliance repair shop I used to own a 1939 General Electric fridge !
Thank you. The earlier ones from the 30's are also epic. I work on many Monitor Tops and Flat Tops as well.