FUN FACT: The English term "redpoint" is a loan translation of the German Rotpunkt coined by Kurt Albert in the mid-1970s at Frankenjura. He would paint a red X on a fixed pin so that he could avoid using it for a foot- or handhold. Once he was able to free-climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways, this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later

@setadoon

2 жыл бұрын

They coined it from the coffee pot where you had to line up the red dot to pour the coffee. Cool useless knowledge is fun lol

@Jokl92

2 жыл бұрын

There is a really cool movie with Alex Megos called Rotpunkt. It's done by Patagonia! Good stuff!

@spoiledpsycho

2 жыл бұрын

For Albert it wasn't necessary to place the gear while climbing to redpoint a route tho...

@Zagar099

2 жыл бұрын

No one on KZread can tell me what beta means specifically :( Buddy asked to see my beta in a few videos but I have none as I'm new to the sport

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

@@Zagar099 I’ll add it to the next jargon video for a full history of the term. But put simply it’s just the solution to the puzzle of the climbs. What holds to use in what potions ect. Just think of it as information about how the climb is climbed…

I nearly brown pointed my first trad/ lead climb last week

Headpoint: When you're worked out a climb on toprope and then the hardest part about the lead climb is your fear of falling (especially if you can't place any good gear).

Redpointing is leadclimbing the route without any falls or resting on gear. But you can practice the route beforehand.

I've heard the term green point. It's climbing a bolted line on gear.

Would knowing the grade blow the onsight? What if there is a big ledge, say big enough to sleep on mid route, would that blow the flash/onsight if you take a nap before finishing?

@MindSurf248

2 жыл бұрын

What about if you downclimbed, back to the ground, untied, and went home for the night napped ... but NO REM sleep... came back and sent it, would the onsight still count?

I’ll take a brown pint over a brown point any day

I think you missed highpoint? The farthest you’ve gotten on a route (after multiple attempts)

Thanks for the definitions! Whats a "send" vs a redpoint though?

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

A “send” is a generic meaning. A “red point” is specifically how you sent. For example you could have sent a climb in a number of different styles. Aided, solod, lead, seconded, top roped, ect.

Josh could you make a video for your gym friends who are coming outdoors with you for the first time. I want a video I can send them that gives them an idea what to expect. They’re bringing their own harness, belay device, shoes and the helmet I made them buy. Otherwise they are just along for the ride 🤙🏻

@rock_your_boat

Жыл бұрын

oh, I'm looking forward to this one 😆

Can you onsight a multi pitch as you have to rest on gear at the anchors? Also you normally didn't lead all pitches so does it even count? You didn't mention dogging a route. I knownit doesn't have point on the name but neither does onsight .

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah I’d say you can onsight each pitch. Or maybe onsight one pitch and fall on another then it becomes a red point.

A brown point can also mean a “hangdog” send where you hang on your rope, then finish the climb. It comes from the ideology that if you do this, your send doesn’t mean shit

Never been this early. First view, first comment! Bam!

Head point, yellow point

What's your opinion on sport routes with the draws already hung? I personally never do it but all the professionals do. I think it definitely makes it easier. Could Ondra send the same routes if he had to clip his own draws???

@stsam63

2 жыл бұрын

I think that he could it might just take slightly more effort because draws weight so little and clipping into bolts is pretty quick and doesn't require much thought (unless the bolt is super sketch and you aren't sure if you should use it) it wouldn't be a huge stretch to preplace the draws. I am sure there are some people that don't really consider sport climbs with preplaced draws true FA's though.

@BetaClimbers

2 жыл бұрын

It rubs my a little the wrong way only because you never know in what conditions the draws can be in. If they are stainless carabiners and cables I’m a little less sketched. But ppl have died on worn out stuff so. I think that the pros probably leave their own new draws then take them off when they are done projecting but maybe not always. 🤷🏻‍♂️

@SpartaSpartan117

2 жыл бұрын

I think logically if we treat placing the gear as a necessity for sending a route then we could not call any free solo of a route a proper redpoint. This seems to me to be absurd so we should reject the hypothesis. Should we do away with pre-clipping the first draw as well? The climb is what matters, the manner in which the gear is placed seems to me to be a secondary concern.

@Gehirnautobahn

2 жыл бұрын

​@@BetaClimbers Here in europe you come to the crag, put the slings in your project by hangdogging up, and then you take them with you when you go home.

What about a green point and blue point

Is it an onsight if i know the grade?

Bc i don't want people to see me just fondling rocks. So i climb to make it look like im doing something

Green Pointing: Climbing a sport route entirely on trad gear.