Level Up your Finger Strength with Force Board, Get 10% OFF with code 'STRUGGLE' ➡ thestruggleclimbingshow.com/forceboardyoutube

@francescovaroli6893

2 ай бұрын

Is this a new interview or a clip from the December 7th show? Thanks! Love the podcast!!

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

@@francescovaroli6893 it’s pulled from the December interview. Thanks for listening! There’s also a bonus episode with Magnus over on Patreon, and I think I’m gonna be chatting with him again pretty soon. Lots more to learn from that guy.

@victorblondel1902

2 ай бұрын

do you not fingerboard anymore and just use this ? do you fell it could replace it ? are you doing max hangs, or repeaters with it ? really interested but kind of curious, cause I love the feel of hanging you know :) also, do you pull with your whole body or curling your fingers only ? thanks for the content !

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

@@victorblondel1902 all good questions! I still use both, as I think both have their place and also, it’s just nice to mix things up. But I think the Force Board is a far more specific and effective tool for generating finger strength, as well as endurance, when I’m not able to get out Climbing. i’ve posted some videos on my Instagram of various uses, from warm-up, to building endurance, to building max strength. To your question about strength, sometimes I will only curl my fingers (not use my legs or body), which isolates the finger flexors. And sometimes I will do a max rip, where I try to pull the thing out of the board that it’s attached to (using my legs, shoulders, arms, everything.). Creates different stimulus. I love how easy it is to travel with, and use at home when I can’t get to the gym.

@victorblondel1902

2 ай бұрын

@@thestruggleclimbingshow thanks for taking the time !

nah it's cus the shirts I wear are too heavy

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

😂

@bullydungeon9631

2 ай бұрын

Damn I have really good news the guy in this video sells shirts

@HourRomanticist

2 ай бұрын

Tops off ftw lol

@sarazzielh6518

2 ай бұрын

But magnus hardly wears shirts during climbing 😅

@Arunnn241

2 ай бұрын

Rungne shirts are actually 7kgs so when you take it off, you become stronger just like Magnus

Climbing with and observing people who are better than you is so helpful, I've learned so much by doing that.

Something i noticed about myself and friends is not eating b4 climbing. Youd think youd get bloated and itd make you worse but when I DONT eat and come on an empty stomach I burn out and am low energy. Maybe not the heaviest meal or whatever but a decent meal beforehand, not just a protein bar. You need calories to move lol.

@MaxRollison

2 ай бұрын

Normally when I go with friends I eat before I go and drive 30-40 minutes to get there (getting there at 6am). When I eat before going and have it digest and get into my bloodstream I do much better than for example, this morning. When I ate this morning and drove to the gym 8 minutes away, I definitely didn't have enough time to digest and didn't have enough water either so it went pretty poorly (Not as many sends, legs shaky, etc. I did warm up and stretch, but I think letting your body wake up fully and digesting food helps. Also I think temperature is definitely a big factor too 👀 If it's too hot I get out of it real quick.

@George-nx8zu

Ай бұрын

I'm guilty of doing this because I believe I'll have an easier time climbing if I'm lighter. But its probably not the optimal way to train

@TheBanana202

Ай бұрын

I climb best on an almost empty stomach, like a banana before and i feel my best

@bradturner7678

20 күн бұрын

Toast and honey is a good preworkout snack/meal

Big one is trying to reduce injuries, especially for older climbers

I find most of the time is the fear of falling on a boulder from the top where the crux is usually set. I find really need to practice falling by not sticking it.

@HourRomanticist

2 ай бұрын

It's the slabs for me. I cannot find the courage half the time to top them out if there's a sketchy foothold at the top. I haven't fallen down the wall yet and I don't plan on it 😅

@sawtmac

2 ай бұрын

@@HourRomanticist in slabs ım way more careful to place the foot , falled on volume yesterday though :D only a scratch but falling on top isnt an option

@outandabout259

2 ай бұрын

I have fallen a lot of times, but usually it's at least somewhat on purpose, I expect to fall, or I have time to react to the fall. The only time none of these happened was when I tried to hold on a sloper at the very top of the wall and my hand slipped unexpectedly, and then I fell in a strange way and twisted my ankle so bad it took 4 months to fully heal. Falling completely accidentally is scary.

@TohnR

2 ай бұрын

@@HourRomanticist Doing harder boulders you'll fall down the wall a lot and it's fine really. Should train to react to falling and not hurting yourself.

Catalyst climbing does a great job explaining the psychological side of climbing and keeping up a positive attitude in some of their coaching videos, suggested viewing for everyone!

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

Great recommendation!

@tts3397

2 ай бұрын

what is the video's title?

Physical things aside, confidence is THE most important tool in climbing imo. Going from climbing in my range because I knew I could do it vs climbing things I wanted to climb because I just wanted to and confidently (not having a clue if I could or not) is tremendous to progress and enjoyment on the wall

@HiImBQ

2 ай бұрын

Indeed. I know a lot of people, that if you encourage them, can easily send stuff they never thought possible. I fall in this myself, though.... It's like, there is this ladder-like route in my gym in an overhang and someone said, this looks easy to campus. And I said, nah, I probably won't make it... flashed it. So, at the very least, no matter how hard it looks, just try.

1:04 Magnus making me feel like a ball of confidence. I will try any route with what in my mind looks like good holds. The bigger the better.

This is definitely it. My first year of climbing I stuck to v3-4 grade and never even tried projecting. I got in this weird mindset that it should be ‘Easy’ so when I would try a v5 and fall off the first move I would tell myself I’m not strong enough and just stick to v4. When I brought my friend to climb with me during year 2 I forced him to do v4s and he was already climbing at my level within a couple weeks. I realized I just never pushed myself. If you want to skyrocket your climbing progress, climb with someone stronger than you who climbs a few grades higher.

I think one thing that’s a very huge downer for confidence is the grading system. While it’s nice to compare yourself to others you also shy away from harder grades. Whereas with coloursystems that have huge overlaps in grades, it simply doesn’t matter that much and one is much more inclined to try the next harder colour because it might be a soft one for the colour. And just by that you „accidentally“ touch routes that are way harder than what you usually climb and get used to those. And one can still compare their „strength“ world wide to others on systemboards.

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

I interviews Carlo Traversi recently and he shared this perspective (which he implements at his gym). I love the sound of it. His interview will be out in about a month.

I really like how you pointed out the importance of muscle memory. I am a beginner climber (started in the beginning of 2023, because of Magnus and other clibing youtubers btw) and I am always really surprised of my muscle memory. When I fall on a boulder 5 times and come back a week later, I almost every time stick the move. So this is just to give people confidence, that muscle memory doesn´t just work if you´re a pro climber oder you have climbed for 20 years. It even works if you are a beginner like me:) Also I´ve started hangboarding in january 2024, just from the best edge and for five seconds and I started with my feet on the ground too. I´ve done this for 2 months, lifted the feet slowly and a few weeks ago I started to use the campusboard for the first time. What I want to say is, everything takes time but if it feels good and you have no pain or anything in your fingers after you did the exercise, just start doing it. These exercises have helped my brain more than my fingers I might think, because I am so confident now but also know my limits:)

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

Awesome to hear! Congrats on the steady progress 💪. Lots more great advice in this full podcast episode, and many others with top climbers, on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, or wherever 🙌

@qurgo

2 ай бұрын

To go along with the muscle memory, I think subconsciously you know what to expect and what kind of force you need at each section since you've done the boulder before.

@HourRomanticist

2 ай бұрын

Absolutely. If you're having an issue with a move, if you can try it as many times as possible, after a night's rest you'll usually be able to do it. I've noticed this with everything in life.

I’ve decided this year I’m gonna focus on cultivating what Louis Parkinson calls “Relentless Optimism” I’m going to try hard boulders that aren’t my style and between two grades lower than what I climb and three grades harder than what I climb ( so currently v4-v9). My joints muscles and my sleep are playing nice lately since I’ve cut back on vices and supplement well,so I think it’ll be possible to get stronger learn and better even if I stay the same grade.

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

Love this!

Yo I don't usually care for the sponsor of the video, in favt I usually skip them if I'm being honest, but that hangboard looks incredibly cool tbh. Like, absurdly useful for measuring finger strength, knowing where you are in the progress of your training (besides just hang time), and for knowing when to progress to smaller hold sizes. That genuinely looks super cool

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

I try my best to partner with brands that I personally believe in and are relevant for climbers. I’ve been using one of those for many months now, and it’s definitely improved my training routine. I use it to warm up at the crag or the gym, to train when I don’t have a lot of time to climb, and even right now when I’m on vacation.

This is so crazy, that’s my climbing gym. Never thought it was big enough for Magnus to come through

@lowaltitudefreesoloist

2 ай бұрын

What gym? And where is that video on?

Anyone have a link to the climbing course where all the clips are pulled from?

I always film myself when I train so I can see what I did because when I'm climbing I kinda zone out 😁

Great advice!

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

I have only been climbing for one month now and i managed to go from v0 to v6 simply because i tried stuff that seemed to be too difficult for me. I even tried two v6s when i haven't even done a single v5 yet and today i managed to do both. If you try something really hard, you will run into problems, which is great because problems give you a chance to improve. They narrow down where you might be lacking and then it's up to you to figure out what to do better. Once the problems is fixed, you will have become a better climber.

@michael1

15 күн бұрын

Very few people are going to get anywhere trying to climb v6s a few weeks into starting climbing. I think for the most part I get better at climbing by doing climbs I can do until they feel easy - and the feeling easy part is a result of climbing them better - whether better boils down to me being stronger or using better technique is kind of moot and immaterial. Usually though there hasn't been enough time for me to have gotten stronger so it must be better technique (fitness adaptations, for example, take around 4-16 weeks so if you go to the gym a few days later and have improved it's not fitness) I don't think I get better failing the same climb over and over - and I don't see any of the youtubers I'd consider good at coaching (a different skill from being good at climbing) who wouldn't advice, at the very least, doing a few tries, analysing what is going wrong, trying to correct it, but then moving on to another climb. Another alternative, perhaps, if you fail the starting move of a climb skip past it and try the rest rather than just failing over and over. And this is especially true, I think, the lower the grades of climbs you can do is. i.e to an extent I can "project" a bit more now, but I still don't waste a bunch of time on stuff that's way beyond. Just as if you go to a guitar teacher he's not going to get you to strum a C chord on your first lesson and then on your next lesson get you to play Eruption - and you can try to play Eruption and waste a lot of hours doing it, but chances are you'll play it badly if at all. And there's really no one who was playing these kind of pieces in a month. If I climbed a v6 at my gym after a month I'd think the grading at the gym was poor before I thought I'd progressed to that level. In the same way that a month after I've started playing guitar the few chords and riffs I learn make me think "These must be relatively easy" Specifically too one of the best ways I learn is by using easier climbs either by using them for specific drills (e.g climbing with 3 out of 4 limbs, skipping holds, hovering over a hold for a couple of seconds, climbing with silent feet, climbing without moving your hands (i.e not changing hand position after grabbing the hold - all of these, and probably more are in Catalyst climbing videos) or by skipping holds on them. I think I learn more from this than I would failing the starting move on a v6 for 2 hours and then going home. That said, of course, there's probably no one particular way to learn anything. I know what works for me - at least in as far as I've made some progression, I'd be wary of anyone who thought their way was the only way. Of course, if you're getting a coach they probably will teach you in a particular way and you've got to hope their way of coaching works for you (otherwise, no matter how well they climb or how good they are at coaching you won't improve)

@k.a.8725

14 күн бұрын

@@michael1 i never said you should try v6. I said you should try pushing your limit and try things that are harder than what you've ever climbed before. Of course you always need to know what's reasonable for you to do and not. Nobody is going to improve by failing on move 1 100 times within the first second, but if you find a problem that feels impossible to complete, but not impossible to try i think that is the sweet spot for improvement. I think you improve faster by creating a new type of skill that makes you go further than ever before rather than by improving already existing skills and going a path you've already been on before, mainly because with method 1 you will naturally get exactly what you get out of method 2 since you'll get a feeling for good technique way faster this way, since there is a clear distinction between what works and what doesn't. (The distinction is falling. Regular old technique will usually lead to a fall, while improved new technique will usually see immediate results.) V2 feels pretty easy now, not because i climbed a lot of v2s but because i climbed v6 already. Also personally i think it's way more fun this way, as i dont know anybody in climbing that doesn't like searching for ways to improve their technique while also simultanously challenging themselves and pushing their own limits. Also i don't think there is any single good coach that could ever not help a beginner climber. If they really are a good coach, they know what you are lacking and they know how to make you improve in that aspect. Everybody might learn a bit differently, but on a purely physical level we are very similar to each other in concepts, so good coaches teaching good climbing concepts will always be helpful to everyone. At that point it's not subjective, just science. If you disagree, it's like saying "you won't lose weight by running, because they way you structure your running doesn't work for you personally". No that's just plainly wrong. You will always lose weight by running. You might be able to optimize weight lose with the way you run, but you will always lose atleast some weight by running. Edit: I also never said that you need to brute force your way through an extremly difficult boulder with 70 attempts on day 1, but regularly working on it would be good.

@michael1

14 күн бұрын

@@k.a.8725 No worries. Sorry to tax your brain. Keep away from a library because if you see a book you'll probably have a heart attack.

@k.a.8725

14 күн бұрын

@@michael1 60% of what you said consisted of telling me about what you do, 20% consisted of weird analogies and the other 20% consisted of a misunderstanding of the points i was trying to make, which were the sole thing your entire comment is based on, which i grasped relatively early on. 0% of your comment consisted of making logical arguments against my ACTUAL points, not the points you thought i was trying to make. Basically the situation is like this: I said: "I like apples" You said: "I disagree, i dont think bananas taste good. Anyways here is the 4 page document you never asked for about the fruits i like." Those are the reasons i didn't read your entire comment. I do read books on the regular though. Also im not saying that how you try to improve isn't effective, i just don't think it's efficient. Just like how i would've been fine with the efficiency of my way being argued against, but that's really not what you did. So yeah, sorry about reading the entire comment. I truly deserve to be disrespected for it...

At the moment I got a couple of routes of the next grade and I try them and then break them into different parts to train just that part until it feels good and then the next

Don't look at grades. Have fun. Look at a climb, think about the movement and workout the moves. Much more rewarding, than grade hunting. We had one climber in our group who always said 8 UIAA was too hard for him. One day in a new gym, it wasn't UIAA Scale, it was graded in French, and he cruised one up with ease. We told him afterwards and from that point on, the blockage was gone in his head. I started hangboarding with feet on the ground. gradually increasing hangtime. Best technique for me getting stronger: climb slower and more precise, don't adjust the hand, after you placed it, wait 3 seconds before the hold to grab it. Suddenly easy routes, get really really hard. and your strength and technique will improve, because you have to have a good stand.

I need to be comfortable slipping off the top of a route. I find my lack of confidence when climbing being from fear.

I'm the opposite. I try stuff way too hard and barely ever actually send anything 😂

@assaqwwq

2 ай бұрын

Same. Try stuff. Get a pulley injury. Get angry at myself. Try again. Yet finger boarding is sooo boring, I would rather climb injured 😂😂😂

@HourRomanticist

2 ай бұрын

Yeah I feel like I can only resend easy stuff because all my projects rn seem way too hard for me. I do make maybe a move of progress every session though lol.

@sawtmac

2 ай бұрын

@@assaqwwq only need 6 sets a day as warm up

I am all the opposite. I get on boulders that are rlly hard, give it lots of tries through out multiple session to the point where I am pretty sure I am not strong enough and then…I keep trying because who knows, maybe the next try it goes 😂😂😂

I tend to not try harder rputes because i cant even mentally figure out how the moves go. During the time I go to my gym, it is nearly empty so I rarely ever get to see someone do those v4+ routes to even know how the beta is supposed to go.

When was Magnus at Como rocks???

One of my biggest blockers is having consistent belayers that I can trust

How do I deal with the pain Magnus! How do I deal with the paiN! V7 is so painful :( I can't....

Definitely, the best way to improve is just trying really hard stuff!

@pizzafunghi3537

2 ай бұрын

Depends on your level of climbing. At the beginning I think it is way more helpful to just climb a lot instead of trying moves that are too hard and result in lots of resting. Climbing with people better than you definitely helps a lot.

Alright, I cant do a single pull-up. maybe its technique, idk. Can barely hang one arm. Height is 179cm, with weight, 82kg. I can send most v3 in 1 or 2 sessions, except for overhang boulder and I can make a progress on v4. What should I focus on? Strength or technique?

@samvalentine9243

2 ай бұрын

Both strength and technique are needed but if you're lacking pulling strength that will need to be addressed sooner than your technique imo. Being able to do at least 5 pullups is pretty important once you reach that v4-5 stage, especially on overhang problems. It's harder when you're heavier, I def relate to that being 87kg myself, but because you're naturally pulling more weight it feels pretty sick to be able to do 5 perfect pullups 💪

My first.. let's call it V3.. was a breezy deadpoint to a 2 finger pocket. Had I landed that move correctly, it would have been so easy. Unfortunately my feet slipped as I caught the pocket so I had to take a break from climbing 😂😂😂.

@samvalentine9243

2 ай бұрын

Worst fear every time I see a dynamic move to a pocket lol. Even when fully warmed up pockets are rough on my fingers.

@anticoxchange7698

2 ай бұрын

Shitty setting to do this on a v3

Ive been climbing till i cant hold onto holds anymore since i started climbing 2 1/2 months ago and I see improvement every session. I do have a problem where I let go of the wall rather than falling off when i think i cant gi higher, meaning i dont try to failure, so im working on that.

@aviduke

2 ай бұрын

Give your finger tendons a rest bro

@samvalentine9243

2 ай бұрын

Def be careful and don't push it. If you climb hard stuff until exhaustion the biggest risk is dry firing and injuring your tendons. Rather than let go when you think you can't climb higher it might be better to just downclimb and try to read the route. Dropping excessively isn't good for ya, even if you're really light.

You’ll never climb harder if you don’t try the harder things. That’s always the first step.

Because its not a competition would be my answer... whether you're motivated is a genuine question as if you enjoy climbing at the grade you're on then doing all the extra training to improve is going to be tough!

Personally I really don't enjoy training, can I keep improving past 7a lvl's just by climbing 2/3 times a week?

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

Oh for sure. Lots of climbers “just climb”. But many will tell you that the intentionality of those climbing sessions really matters. Not just goofing around, but structuring your gym sessions to focus on a specific energy system or skill acquisition. Check out my full interview with Chris Sharma for more on this. And of course, make sure you’re having fun. Then it doesn’t feel like training :)

i’ve been climbing for 4 months climbing with better climbers the whole way through and magnus was so real when he said it makes you feel like a douchebag switching partner all the time 😭

Magnus : other sports are repetitive while in climbing there is always something new. Speed Climbers : ...

Me always trying the stuff thats way out of my reach

interesting

Ok love this BUT at the risk of being annoying, Magnus's audience is overwhelming male. Were there a lot of women in his program? For the average guy who can do 1-2 pullups without much training, and even more so for the average fit guy who can do 4-15 pullups, arm/shoulder strength is obviously not the limiting factor when they start climbing! But the average woman who doesn't have a fitness background? It took me like a year and a half of climbing to be able to do my first unassisted pullup. I was climbing the same grades as a guy who had started at the same time who could do 6 pullups, so I was somehow finding a way up the wall with technique and stuff, but I'm pretty sure that some strength training would have helped me. And I've heard similar feedback from other women!

@Blue-pb7kz

2 ай бұрын

Also I feel like all these interviews with pro climbers can't understand how much harder it can be if you start at an older age without a sports background. I climbed for two years in middle school, with my nice young tendons and never got anything more than DOMs, didn't do any significant physical activity for a decade and now I can't count the number of finger tweaks and various shoulders and elbow issues I get if I even dare to want to try hard on something that's more than half a step above my usual grade. Tendinitis (multiple times multiple places), tenosynovitis, collateral ligament injury, sprains... Like I'm progressing, but slooooowly. And again, I've heard this from other people that I climb with, if you have a background of using your tendons for a long time, even for another activity, weightlifting, gymnastics, wrestling, whatever, or even working manual labor, or if you start young, you come in with a significant advantage in the time it takes to adapt. Idk I just feel like it's another thing that gets overlooked if your audience are all 'the average guy' and your friends mostly athletes, long time climbers, and generally younger fitter guys (and also self selected genetically lucky people).

@zacharylaschober

2 ай бұрын

most elite athletes have little training knowledge for themselves, much less for others. we would be fools to ignore what they are doing, but we would be fools to follow what they are doing rather than rely on the research. people attribute success or progress to a great many things which the research suggests was counter productive, even. having worked with clients who cannot do a bodyweight pullup, we often have some immediate constraints and priorities to consider but this may just be something to watch for in a review of climbing. what I wish is more climbing gyms and climbers shifted away from the pullup as the gold standard exercise and instead invested in some lat pulldown/low row machines with an appropriately heavy stack or weight horns.

Non competitive just recreation types. Similar as running, cycling.intervals hurt. Athletic , competitive people improve quick no matter the physical activity

Bros climbing in my mid missouri gym💀

Great content, but oh boy do I dislike these clickbaity titles. They've become almost indistinguishable between all climbing videos. Anyway, thanks for bringing us your interview

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

Sorry. KZread is hard to navigate - I work with someone to help me with titles and all the stuff it takes to get videos seen. I try to ensure the title reflects the content and that the content delivers on the title. Do you feel this one didn’t deliver?

@SovietAssault69

2 ай бұрын

​@@thestruggleclimbingshow don't listen to this guy. The title is accurate. This title format just feels like clickbait, even though the title itself is accurate. It's a symptom of the platform

1. Getting old 2. Eating too many doughnuts 3. Drinking too much beer

@HourRomanticist

2 ай бұрын

Older climbers have an advantage in tendon strength. If you can't do some dynos anymore, I get that, but youre tendons are stronger than younger people (old man strength).

@Blue-pb7kz

2 ай бұрын

​​@@HourRomanticistI disagree. I climbed for two years as a teen with my nice new young tendons and never got more than DOMs. I picked up climbing again a decade later and I've had almost all of the tendon issues I know of minus pulley injuries (knock on wood). Old man strength only really works if it comes with a history of working with your hands a lot imo!

i do way worse when i film myself climbing but i still do it once in a while to see how gremlin-y i look like on the wall

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

😂

I'm stuck at V5 cuz I don't wear Prana clothes. Only reason. 😢

lol feel like an elephant on the wall. No way I’m filming that.

Anyone drilled the Force Board to a skateboard yet? That might be fun lol

@thestruggleclimbingshow

Ай бұрын

Multitasking 🤣

Im over confident i truly believe i can climb harder grade but fail and get frustrated with myself 😂

Buy rugne pants

The #1 thing I learned is that „good technique“ is mostly understood as prioritizing utilization of legs over upper body strength. However, this often puts additional force on the fingers and is difficult to withstand for beginners, which is why I claim that strong fingers are a prerequisite for learning proper technique.

@Sandkasten36

2 ай бұрын

Often people say: Wow he's climbing so beautiful. That's great technique. The other guy lacks technique. No he might lack strength to properly use good technique. He might know how to to that move beautifully if the holds were better or with less overhang. More often than not it's poor core strength.

@tomriddle2257

2 ай бұрын

@@Sandkasten36 Yes I also heard people talk like that. Climbing beautifully is actually just climbing way below your usual grade. 😅

but you need strength to keep trying a problem is too hard for you

Next step is removing the bottom as well folks

Oh i see so to climb v12 i just have to be more confident. It doesnt matter if i cant hang off one arm

It’s not the camera, it’s bc he took off his shirt.

@thestruggleclimbingshow

2 ай бұрын

😂

Because they break themselves then can't 🙈.

Because most climbers don’t improve because they don’t want to be in a wheelchair after falling

@th3l05t-kfpreactoroperator5

2 ай бұрын

getting hurt while bouldering indoors is actually pretty hard if you dont do anything stupid

@Blue-pb7kz

2 ай бұрын

​@@th3l05t-kfpreactoroperator5sprains are super common though. It's happened to me, last month I saw a girl break something in her ankle, my local gym is known for it!

How stupid can a you tube be

@joshthomas3706

2 ай бұрын

Gee idk bro