I'm in my mid 40's and I've been an engineer my entire career, but I still learn new perspectives every day. I love this channel for how accessible it makes things that took my generation years of experience to understand.

The Office Space reenactment was pretty great and really fun to watch. Also, I really liked the trick with polarized lenses looking at stress points. That's actually pretty cool and I never knew you could do that.

@droppoint495

2 жыл бұрын

Pretty hilarios lol

@jimmieclark8436

2 жыл бұрын

Agreed, kept watching for the slipups to see what they were really hitting :)

@LyleTanner

2 жыл бұрын

PC Load Letter

@TimTekGaming

2 жыл бұрын

yesss bro that shit was so funny

MSLA 3D printers like Elegoo/Anycubic printers also have tough resin options that can take up real-world abuses. We are happy to send you our Nylon-Like Tough and Tenacious resin for making impact-resistant parts for comparison.

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Sounds great. Send me an email at quintbuilds@gmail.com and we'll figure out the arrangements.

@noelsteele

7 ай бұрын

@@QuintBUILDs Please do those tests! 🙏

You should used the form3 resin in elegoo. The printers are the same in function so if elegoo slicer setting are the same for the form3 resin. you should get the same results. Test it.

@davethedog007

2 жыл бұрын

I was going to comment the same thing. Apart from the fancy refill there both just UV LEDS, so the only real difference should be in the resin you use.

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Yeah it would probably work, but someone with more experience tuning the Elegoo for various resins should try it instead of me.

@erikcederb

2 жыл бұрын

It isn't really that easy, since the Form3 is an laser-based printer (not UV LED+LCD), the resin is much less sensitive and requires higher activation energy than the mSLA resin for the elegoo. If it does work, it will be very very slow.

@jeremywp123

2 жыл бұрын

@@QuintBUILDs you shouldn't really need to do any fancy calibration, just make sure your exposure time is within the range on the bottle and you're good to go.

@jimmieclark8436

2 жыл бұрын

I was going to ask the EXACT same thing

Pro tip about holding water: process FDM-printed parts with a dissolver (f.e. ABS with acetone) and they become completely water / air tight. I've made many hi-pressure manifolds and valves that way.

@gnomish844

2 жыл бұрын

Also, play with layer height. Most people think smaller layers = better, but tests show that's not the case (check out CNC Kitchen, for example). Smaller layers may result in higher resolution prints, but layer adhesion is worse, which is where you get water leaking. Been printing water-tight parts on an Ender 3 for ages without any post processing.

@DanielDeLibro

2 жыл бұрын

@@gnomish844 Yes yes so true

@XREXP0

Жыл бұрын

I prefer PETG, With the Highest temp I can for this type of part, with just a shade of extra flow if it's not too detrimental to the part. It holds water every time. In vase mode, I'm not sure, but with multiple walls yes. Also I think some parts can be annealed if necessary thoigh I've never done it

Hey Quint! We're so impressed with this video and we're really blown away by the tests you subjected our materials to. If you ever run into any issues ever again, please don't hesitate to contact our customer care team. Our in-house experts are always ready to help, whether it's failed prints, recurring issues you might be facing, or anything that's getting in between you and a successful print.

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome, thanks! It really is my favorite 3D printer. Just last night my son and I ran timing pulleys printed in Clear up to 5,500 RPM. They handled it no sweat!

@zackzlevor5157

2 жыл бұрын

Would love to see a video on that. This has been one of the more informative videos I’ve seen on formlabs materials.. thanks for that. Awesome work

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

@@zackzlevor5157 you'll see it in the next video! 👍

@tarakivu8861

Жыл бұрын

Looks like your printers and cardridges are unreliable at best and dont work at all at worst.. Unfortunately i'll have to remove your Printer from the collection i am eyeballing at the moment.. Elegoo it is then. A Buddy has no issues with Elegoo, even if requiring more manual work e.g. when refilling.. totally worth less money spent and less frustration. And with the cardridge-style we have the same issues as with normal printers too.. the printer says its empty when its not, the company can make the material extremly expensive to buy and even refuse to print with other types of resin not from that company.. Really bad practises.. pure evil! Seems like you went the same route. Full on capitalism!

@ispamalot

Жыл бұрын

@@QuintBUILDs You cant reenact the printer scene from office space with the formlabs pinter and then say they have a great product dude. Thats like saying me and my children are going to straight up MURDER you and when you are dead i will drag your insides behind me and then saying you love them. This is why they are in your comment section.. becouse they are afraid. And rightly so.. becouse how can they ever hope to recover from a diss THAT HARD. This guy is not messing around here formlabs.. you have been warned.

Great, video. Looks like it took 100+hrs to shoot and edit. I hated science and math growing up. If you were my teacher in school, I might be a whole lot smarter. Keep up the good work!

Quint, I love your videos. They bring me back to the lessons I learned my engineering courses. You are so great at explaining the theories and showing their applications in interesting ways. Keep up the great work and thank you!

The use of photoelasticity for this demonstration was neat! Love you're videos. Thank you.

Fun fact, I obtain similar results on a 200 USD second hand Core XY printer that I modified to suit my needs, prinitng in Polycarbonate, PLA, and other materials like PPS PEI etc. The trick to not spend 5 gran for a printer and 200 bucks per liter of resin is the after print rebake in popcorn salt remelting at some 10 Celsius under the printing temperature, and keeping it so for a few hours than let it cool over the night, that eliminates in the semiliquid state (guiyii state?) all micro bubles of gas (mainly air) from the FDM printed parts allowing the polymers to weld into eacother without the part changing shape, well something changes but insuficcient to make the part usless from a parametric point of view. In the end I obtain same quality (nearly) as injection moulded parts, without the perfect aspect because... 3D printed.

Amazing to see how you get the kids involved as well. Thank you very much sir!

I'd love to see you experiment with more, cheap resins in the Elegoo. Things like Siraya Tech's stronger resins are very popular to mix into various ABS-like resins to increase durability and strength. I think it'd also be interesting to to experiment with different printing orientations. Printing the pieces on their side (as opposed to vertically) could increase their strength further. Layer de-lamination is less of an issue with resin versus FDM but it's still inherently present in the manufacturing method. Great video as always!

Great content as usual, very educational and super fun to watch too. Keep up the good work

So cool that im taking my materials mechanics class this semester and able to apply/understand what is being said in this video. Very informative and a great visual example of what's being taught to me at school, thank you!

Excellent. And a a really smooth link into the add!

You got the gear and the knowledge. Very impressed

Great Job I'm glad you posted this it made my day. Thank you.

Excited to see how you've done it (video was just uploaded, so of course I have not seen it yet).

You nailed that Office Space re-enactment. Bravo!

Omg that office space bit was perfect!

The "Office Space" scene made me laugh! Great video! (Clever use of the dog, as well!)

Love the video. I use a Form 2 and a Form 3L at work and love them. Print quality is excellent and so easy to use. I agree with some of the other commenters that the resin is really expensive. A couple tips on getting the raft off the build plate: Use a thicker raft (2.5-3mm), soak the build plate in the alcohol for longer (once the parts are removed) or in a worst case situation, throw the build plate in the cure tank for 10-15 minutes on medium heat.

love the video ive watched it before but had to come back and watch again the office space skit was great 😂

that office space scene had me laughing. good work!

This video really helped me understand a number of aspects of 3D printers. I have been thinking of buying one, however with so many price variations, and not knowing enough about them; I didn't know if the dearer ones were worth the extra spend. Nor did I really understand the different types. Thanks for helping me not only be more informed, but also show me what to look for. in a 3-D printer.

This video explains exactly what a department at my work does for testing. With the items that I make for them to test the strength with. Thank you, I'm going to be sending this to people in my area so they can understand what happens to what we make.

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Awesome!

I love the Office Space stuff. Great content as usual!

that was a perfect segway into your brilliant Brilliant ad

Wow incredible, so much wonderful information

Man, your reenactment of the Office Space printer scene with your kids was just...amazing. Your kids are already doing some incredible things now. It's exiting to know what they will be up to in the future!

I would like to recommend adding links in your description to the products used. Some of my favorite print channels do this and it helps a lot. Especially when you find products you like. I love the kind of information your channel provides and think taking this step would bump it up just another notch for us viewers. I believe you can even monetize this to make it more affordable to make even more content.

First off, fantastic video, thanks! Second, excellent recreation of my favorite scene from one of my favorite movies, it was epic!

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks!

Extremely well made video.

I saw a review of this printer and the reviewer had the exact same problem and Formlabs advised to manually fill and then cut a slit in the bottle, If I had bought that it would be going back to source I have a Voxelab Proxima Mono 4K for the very little resin printing I do and its a great printer, the quality is top notch and I cant see the layer lines without a microscope and the build plate is quite big at 8.9", I printed a lid on one of my FDM printers that turns the vat into a bottle to pour the left over resin back into the bottle, no mess whatsoever, the lid was water tight after printing but just to be safe I gave it a thin coat of the resin and cured it with a UV torch I have a tray that fits the whole of my workbench so if I did spill any resin it would not go far and is easily wiped up, the next project is a fume cupboard, I have low odor resin but I also bought some ABS like stronger resin and that is quite whiffy and the printer has to go in the garage when I use that

I have those same rims on my 86 f250. They were pitted out so I sanded them down filler primer, sanded, then painted them to a similar silver. Originally polished aluminum, American racing rims. Your truck looks nice.

Very nice, thank you! So much information in this video...

One of my all time favorite movies! That was awesome

Shot for shot recreation, that was great.

I do this type of stuff at work and I love it🤙🏽

😂😂😂 Okay. The Office Space scene with the kids was GREAT!!!

That office space re-enactment was great lol

you have to respect the transition to the ad lol good job on that

Really loved the scene with the kids and you like the Office Space...... So funny

you earned my sub for sure!

Will you please do a video on the bronco? A long, drawn out video telling us all about it. Thank you

2:41 "Don't mess with the Quint Bloodline"

Stellar content!

Great Video! this is my first time on your channel, so glad I found it. What about so called engineering resins on the Elegoo? Formlabs resins are a small fortune, and theres likely no preconfigured settings or profile for them on the cheap chinese printers like Elegoo. Have you tried the Korean brand resin 3DMaterials? they have a SuperPCS resin that apparently can handle almost 7,000psi tensile strength.

I like your video. Will you please post some more regarding available resins for the elegoo and even perhaps some casting resins.

@2TakeMe

2 жыл бұрын

Eg abs vs the others. Or using formlabs in the elegoo...

The office space skit made me subscribe.

It's too bad we haven't figured out a way to do resin printing with long fiber reinforcement yet. Imagine how strong we could make parts then! I'm also really impressed with the strength of that resin. I had always heard that you use FDM for parts that need to be strong and durable, and resin for parts that sit on a shelf and look pretty. Even if FDM IS stronger and more durable, this certainly shows that resin parts aren't just fragile things that will be destroyed the moment you look at them crosseyed.

Hilarious, this mix of GTA violence and product testing. Great at 1:30 am. Thank you. 🤣

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

You're welcome! 😂

I absolutely love office space and this was hilarious! You and the kiddos nailed a modern reenactment. Liked and subscribed!

Really interesting ! Have you tryed to use some of the clear resin from Formlabs in the elegoo ? Could be intersting for people on a tight budget :p

I started my career as a metallurgical lab technician. For three years, I made my living breaking steel wire. Breaks in the jaw were common and frustrating. What really amazed me, though was that I could influence the location of the break with just the heat of my fingertips. Simply holding my fingers on the sample for a few seconds was enough to ensure that the wire would break where touched. (Obviously, these tests didn't go in the records).

Hey Quint, could you discuss the setup more? How is the press setup for pulling the load? Is it a compression test? Just having a hard time understanding how you're able to pull with the press.

Testing different geometries of test jigs to demonstrate core structural principles would be cool, too. Maybe add a compression tester as well?

with FDM you can make parts that can hold water, with the right settings. I build a watercanon which is tested at a waterpressure of 10 bar and i had no leak and that with pla

Material Scientist here, Tensile test pieces are indeed usually round and also have a narrowed part in the middle to ensure where the part breaks. for what you are trying for please increase the grabbing ends to be thicker ensuring you break in the middle or go for a wishbone that is much thinner but the same design as what you have. The main thing is you want to control the break. This is why most pieces are threaded to make sure you are not creating stressors but creating a good grip. For flat objects, you have to make sure your clamps can hold more than what you are testing but still be flat and I would have something between the flat metal and the plastic piece with a higher coefficient of friction.

Great content.

Had you considered designing groves in the part to line up with the ridges in the clamp so you could prevent slipping without having to apply so much squeeze? ;-) Nice video as always. Keep up the great content.

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Oohhhh, great idea! 👍

Great video! Couple of questions" 1) in the formlabs clear resin spec sheet, where it says 'green' does it mean as is just taken out of the printer (and washed of course), but no additional UV curing? (I hope it's not some kind of clear-green resin :)) 1.A) if so, then could we increase (and how much) the exposure time during printing to achieve higher strength before (or without) post-curing? My point is that with post-curing sometime uv light can't get deeper in the model, if it's not very clear, but while printing each pixel in each layer is exposed to uv for whatever time we set. 2) Is saw in a comment of your below "ran timing pulleys printed in Clear up to 5,500 RPM". Could you specify what's the radius of these pulleys? I'm considering building DIY centrifuge (a waste-oil processing one, that the fluid to be cleaned is poured in continuously and only the lightest one flows over an edge, meaning that any heavier particles would settle on the sides of the centrifuge drum), and I have some rough guestimates on what g-forces I should be able to reach with 140mm diameter spinning drum (the largest a Mars 3 can print in one piece). I'm going to use a Dremel that reaches up to 35000 RPM, so that shouldn't be a problem. I assume the material strength is going to be the limiting factor, but before making torture tests I'd like to get the proper resins and have somewhat accurate expectations. Any info would be greatly appreciated! :)

This resin looks strong ! But when you compared it against your FDM printer you should have used more materials than just ABS, since ABS is far from being the strongest, even the common PLA is near to twice as strong in this specific test. And by the way the youtube channel CNCkitchen has an interesting setup to test the strength of 3D prints ! For example in the tensile test he made samples with rounded edges and rounded supports on his machine to reduce the stress due to a potential misalignment

Polarized glasses, you get those when you go to a 3D movie! One lense is vertically and the other is horizontally, letting the image enter the left and right eye separately. If ever you get your hands on those hold them up to your phone or monitor- it's cool :D

@Anaerin

2 жыл бұрын

Unfortunately, not quite. Real3D and the like use Circular polarization, rather than vertical and horizontal.

Love the Office Space recreation lol

You can make fdm prints hold water. Play around with the walls,layer width,overlap. I can't remember exactly what I had to do but I have gotten a dozen prints to be water tight. Have even gotten a vase to hold water. Using a. 8mm layer width and printed hot.

Brilliant 👌

Hey did you get that TPS report finished yet?

Great video. Would it be possible to test different types of resin (Siraya Tech Blu, Phrozen Nylon-Green Tough) against the Formlabs resin? Would help the 3D print community a lot.

imagine having a parent that makes all these things so cool! Kids enjoy this!

Potentially should look into a dlp resin printer like from Anycubic, waaay more lifetime out of the machine for the cost vs lcd. Also a super interesting concept on how the image is formed.

I use a polariscope to check stresses in my glass everyday. It's very difficult to anneal coe33 solid objects over 100mm sometimes taking a few days to a week in the kiln. Seeing the stress helps visualize the annealing process. Look at a clear garbage bag ripping. It has a crazy stress pattern.

So do you need the expensive printer, or just the form free resins? I'd love to know how the form resins work in the cheaper print.

You could use N/mm^2 instead MN/m^2 (which is MPa, see at 5:49), because it is the same 😅😂

To defend the metric system: 1 Mega Newton/m^2 is the same as 1N/mm^2. N and mm are commonly used in engineering (because we do not have that big sticks either). And did I get it right that you use a unit of weight (lbs) to describe a force here? Fine on earth but it might get tricky on the moon

@justaguycalledjosh

2 жыл бұрын

i think strictly speaking, they use a modified version called pound-force, (lbf) which is normalised for relative gravity. still prefer metric.

1 MPa is also 1 N per mm2, which sounds more familiar 🤙🏼

You should've tested that Formlabs resin in the Elegoo printer to see if you could get parts that matched the strength of the Formlabs machine while using the MUCH cheaper printer. I'm quite sure there are slicer settings out there somewhere for that resin on other machines.

If you printed, or even machined in matching grooves to the grippers, you wouldn't need to clamp them so hard? Or, would then the threads be the weakest link? Very cool video, and educational.

I'd love to see if your stress visualization worked on a Prince Rupert Drop. I think showing the stresses as the tail is broken might be really cool

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Totally should work! 👍

Man, your such a cool dad!!

Nice video! Very funny :D

I would suggest looking at SirayaTech's resins, especially their "Blu" and "Tenacious". They're extremely strong resins for all printers, including/especially those Elegoo ones.

Why even send your kids to school, you are all they need to learn. GREAT VIDEO!!!!

What software using to do design

I like that stick schtick

Though I take your word for it. Would have been nice to show the slack of the chain on your first lift on the bronco. Great job on this video, loved it

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I think you can see the chain sway during the lift if you look real close.

@EUnit111986

2 жыл бұрын

@@QuintBUILDs went over that bit again to pay closer attention. It does sway a bit.

I wish my machine design course was even 10% this interesting

Would be interesting to compare how big a cross section you would need to lift the Bronco with a FFF printed part.

Very nice video, congratulations for the working. But, I just kindly want to correct the units you mentioned. N/m^2 is not MegaPascal but is Pascal. However N/mm^2 is MegaPascal… and there are plenty of sticks that are a few mm^2 in size 🤣. So to recap: N/m^2 = Pascal N/mm^2 = MegaPascal

You should have done wired Ethernet - always more reliable than WiFi. Also, you probably got a bite valve without the normal sized opening. Close the top vent and flip it over, and work the bite valve until the slit is all the way across it. You might need to start it a bit in the center with a sharp knife. This happens regularly with new material tanks, and is also discussed on the Formlabs forums.

Can you please tell me if the Formlabs resin will work in the Elegoo printer? And if possible do a test of strength between one printed on the Formlabs printer using Formlabs resin?

Can you print with the form 3 resin on the elegoo?

You didn't break it so it's not an "ultimate" test. I am surprised the Ford survived! Love your "handy" fan.

Very useful test! You had the correct shape to your samples (the bulges at the ends), why didn't you fasted them "locking" them to some steel "V shape" slots, than to clamping them? Deforming maybe did lead to non perfect conditions for the test? Let me know if was. Keep up the good work you doing! A construction engineer here, thanks!

I'm curious what you could get on an FDM with polycarbonate. You'd probably have to upgrade your hotend though. I had to, which is why I haven't tried it yet. I mean I assume that given it's an FDM you still won't break the power of Formlabs but I wonder how much closer you can get.

I picked up a UV flashlight to play with glow in the dark filament, but it's become super useful for cleaning up resin spills. I got a little bit of resin on my finger, so I decided to cure it with the flashlight. It went from mild irritation to sharp burning almost instantly. Would not recommend repeating.

@QuintBUILDs

2 жыл бұрын

Ouch! Thanks for the heads up!

Any chance for publishing raw test data?

You should try Liqcreate Tough-X or Strong-X.

Form3 and Saturn would be my perfect setup. Instead I have 2 Saturns. I would use the Form3 for work, I'm a goldsmith and jeweler. The Saturn is great for hobbies.

That bronco is sweet im jealous.