We are from Siraya Tech, and we always enjoyed your videos. This particular video is very helpful for many new users. . We also like to share that XP2 is great for brittle/hard model resin but can have issues with more flexible resins, including Fast abs-like and tough resins like Blu. This is likely due to the xp2 model is too easy to print, and that flexible resin often has a wide printable range that would make it very hard to judge. So a 1.5s may look just like a 3s one, but 1.5s may have a problem printing a real world print model. Several attempts have been made to address this aspect of the XP2 model, and we have shared this finding with the amazing Photonser who created the XP2 model.

@beefknuckles

2 жыл бұрын

Love your resins

@heramann6916

Жыл бұрын

Wish I could love your resins but we can't get none in Brazil. Still respect your brand tho, only read good things about it around the internet

@JBGecko13yt

8 ай бұрын

I have nothing but failures with the mono 5s with the anycubic resin. I just started a new print with Sirayatech after installing your settings file for the resin. Well see what happens.

@timenotspaceproduction

6 ай бұрын

siraya tech leading the industry :)

The Cones of Calibration work way better for dialing in the exposure time, they give a real easy to "read" result and tuning becomes really easy! (just a tip for those watching this later on)

I feel like I just sat through a TedTalk made just for me. Your natural speaking tone, efficient script, and the information presented of course, were a damn masterclass in educational videos. Both as a healthcare instructor and 3D printing hobbyist, thank you very much!

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Thank you very much for your kind words! New videos all the time so come subscribe if you'd like 😊

i´m a total noob in resin printing here my printer arrives in 3 more days and this is the BEST explanation i´ve seen so far congrats

Thank you very much. I've been having problems with getting a mixture of resins to work right. Now that I have this and knowing that my mono goes by 0.1 seconds instead of 0.5 seconds helps me a lot. Much appreciated.

As a newbie, I find your videos both highly informative and easy to follow. Thanks a bunch Tim for making the content. Keep up the great work.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Very glad to hear! And I'll keep my head down 😊

As someone new to 3D printing, this was very helpful. Thanks!

Thank you for this video. Great tips. Explaining things others never take the time to explain. For newer users like myself all these numbers a settings are greek to me, all these crazy offsets x,y,z, , bottom / top, speeds, off times, etc is just insane, however after you finally taking the time to explain this I'm actually getting results, I kept over exposering, constantly having to replace damaged fep which is a constant set back, so thanks.

Incredible intonations, thanks for being easy understandable and straight to the point, no rubbish.

So useful and so organized. Many KZreadrs I've consulted about printing are not as good at instruction as you are. You deliver the content without a lot of filler. In fact, I would call your lesson "well-calibrated". Good show.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers champ! 😄

Finally an expert who is able to explain complex 3D issues to new users like myself- absolutely brilliant!!! Thank you

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

So glad you dig it 😊!

Thanks! This was very informative and easy to follow. I'm just getting into SLA printing after being involved with FDM for over a decade and finding out quickly that there is a nice little learning curve, so thank you for helping to flatten that curve for me.

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Rock on mate 😊 thanks for your kind words! Resin printing is an awesome world, hope all the best for your future prints.

the. way. he speaks. gives. me. ANXIETY

I've had an FDM printer for years and finally decided to invest in a Resin Printer, and this video helped me understand more about resin-calibrations than any of my other research (weeks of looking). Thank you so much!

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Yay! My pleasure mate, glad to of helped 😊

@JD-sb7mq

Жыл бұрын

same. I posted in a facebook group about recommended settings people could share and the majority of them were morons basically telling me to figure it out myself/“no shortcuts in this hobby”(🖕🙄 to them). There was maybe one or two people that commented on the post that actually provided guides like this one here. Some people are meant to be teachers by how natural it comes to them to explain things in a way people can understand and their sheer amount of attention to detail as well as patience. Other’s need a whole separate course on people skills and how to teach effectively, because they know nothing of humility with the amount of arrogance I got from comments like that. We join these groups/forums and conversations to learn from one another not just gloat about how amazing a job we did getting something to print correctly. Anyway, after seeing this well put-together video I’m subscribing. Thank you!

This video alone was exactly what I needed thank you so much, I have looked through heaps of videos but none break it down like this.

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

😊😊 Cheers mate!

Waiting for my resin printer to arrive, but this is a very useful and important video, many thanks for making it and I will definitely perform the tests you presented to find the optimal settings to preserve detail for each resin I plan to use

About to get an Saturn S and knowing these things help so much.

Thank you for this video! I've got close to 1000 hours of FDM print experience, but I just recently picked up a MSLA resin printer and had some questions. This cleared everything up for me.

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Very happy to hear 😊 Hope you get right into resin 3D printing some radical models.

I just printed the XP2 validation benchmark. 100% accuracy. the fine lines did not wash away on my print, manually dunking in IPA, waiving it around with my fingers.

I love this channel! Great videos brotha keep making more!

Thank you for this video. I ran the basic test piece that came with my Photon Mono SE and used the vase layer setting on the box of my resin. I've now seen that a) the setting I settled on is way over exposed, and b) that this over exposure is part of the reason it feels like I need a jackhammer to get my prints off of the bed.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

My pleasure and cheers for sharing you experience 😊

I downloaded the test print and got it perfect the first time. Surprised the hell out of me since I was trying out a 50/50 mixture of two different resins with Cabosil also mixed in for strength. I now have the strongest and sharpest test print ever printed.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Sweet! The idea of putting Cabosil into the resin is such a rad idea. Have you noticed significant strength increase?

As always, consise, clear and very knowledgeable

Same 3D Printer and same resin as you used in the video, and 1,7 exposure for me was just horrible I found that 2,9 - 3,0 is the right settings for me Thanks for the tips

This is EXACTLY what I needed. I haven't touched my creality in months because I couldn't get my times proper. (I'm using clear resin) so thank you so much.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Suuuper happy to of helped 😊 hope you back on track now printing beautiful models

@ethans3113

2 жыл бұрын

I feel u man when i first used clear blue i had the same exposure settings as the grey resin that came with my mars 2p and uhh… yeah not fun lol set me back a bit

What an excellent video. I've been printing for some time but still get confused by these various settings and exposure time. Thanks for such a clear concise explanation. Really well done and I appreciate you taking the time to make and post this video.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Big thanks mate 🙂! More on the way.

So very helpful! Thank you! I have been printing ball jointed dolls and the ends of the arms/legs are printing very thin and the heavier pieces like the head cap and the joints dont even stay on the plate and fail to print completely. I am going to calibrate my exposure times and see if this helps!

I'm here because I want to create my own pokemon toy collection... thank you I learn something today..

Thanks for the detailed, fast and very easy to understand explanations!

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

My pleasure 😀

You made it so clear and easy to understand. Just got yourself a subscriber. Looking forward to watching more of your videos

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Yayay 🙂 Hope your having a swell day!

Wow, I wish i knew this before starting to print, would be good if this was mentioned/included in printer manuals. Defs gonna do this now. Ive been trying to compensate my slightly enlarged prints manually in the CAD files and I've had lots issues of under/overexposure particularly with clear resin.

Thankyou so much, ive been having so many issues with my new Halot Mage, your video was very easy to follow

Awesome video. Thank you! Very very informative to a resin printing newbie like myself.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

My pleasure 😊 thank you for the comment

This the best explanation I have been able to find. Thanks so much.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Thats all good mate 😄

Thank you Tim, extremely helpful video!

Great video! It's just what I needed.

Thanks for the explanation. I'm confused whether the exposure times should be set on my 3d printer or in my slicer. Do I do both?

I have to say, this is the single most helpful video on resin 3D printing for newbies like me ive seen yet 👌

@Core-Electronics

11 ай бұрын

Happy to hear that!

holy moly, what an excellent video! i don't even have a 3d printer and that was like perfect!

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Haha yay! Cheers mate 😄

Love your video style. Could you do a start to finish guide on crystal clear prints?

this video will be very helpful for me. thanks

Intriguing! What were your power settings? 100%?

Tolerance compensation is for this exact problem. Chitubox has this feature and I use it all the time.

This is the first video of yours that I have seen and shall look forward to others that you do. I've owned a resin printer for less than 2 days and NOW I realise why the exposure time is so important and what the difference is between a Normal and Bottom layer. Your suggestion of a c.10x increase in exposure time to establish the bottom layer is invaluable. I'm also grateful to you for explaining why manufacturers deliberately 'over-cook' (so to speak) the exposure time to begin with. Not a conspiracy, but a guarantee that models produced will definitely work and so lend confidence to the newbie owner (i.e. me). So very many thanks for this wonderful insight. Forgive a naive question, but I notice that my Photon Mono 4K has a very similar appearance to your Crealtity (other than the obvious difference in colour to the UV casing). Are they the same or sister companies, I wonder?

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Very glad to of helped 😊 more videos on Resin Printing in the pipeline too. In regards to similar appearance this has to do with them utilising very similar technology and implementing it in a similar manner. This implementation is by far the most common way to print resin currently, you'll see many machines with similar appearances made by many manufacturers, and is now referred to as 'traditional resin 3D printing' (this technology is so young using the word traditional does seem a little silly). If your curious there are many different ways/methods to 3D print resin, take this machine here which has a very novel resin printing method - www.fabbaloo.com/news/rocket-1-fast-and-accurate-resin-3d-printer

Absolutely Flawless presentation on a pretty complex subject. You are really good in front of the camera and awesome voice. Stay in television and keep going with it homie.

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Naww ❤ Big love! Cheers for that comment mate, made my day! - Tim

all the information here is gold jerry, gold!

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

EXCELLENT INFORMATION! THANK YOU SIR!

Thanks for this video, I'll definitely run more tests! Do you think the 10x for bottom layer works for water washable resin too? And how many bottom layers do you suggest?

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

My experience with water washable resin is limited but I would treat it the same and follow my general rules for normal resin. So I'd have 8-12 bottom layers and a bottom exposure time that was 10x normal layers.

This is a great video thanks, the only thing I would add is ,3d printing pro made a video explaining why more than 4 burn in layers doesn't really make a difference

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

I'll have to check it out, my experience has been more burn in layers has resulted in better model stiction to the buildplate.

Best presentation band explanation of exposure settings , specially with the subtle details such as mono vs RGB, and the 10x factor for bottom later exposure (is this common?) , great stuff I will be referring back to this video often for remembering technical details ,

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate, for everything I have resin printed this is a good general rule but make sure to keep the bottom exposure time lower than ~30 seconds. Any higher and the printer will get too hot.

@SessleIsosceles

2 жыл бұрын

@@Core-Electronics beauty, beauty

The most detailed printing advice I've heard so far. Thanks. What can cause the problem that the printed model is rich in detail but does not harden but remains soft, even if I shine it with UV light. Thank you for your answer

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

There are different types of resin. Some newest types are flexible and even after curing they will remain flexible. If this is happening to your rigid resins I'd recommend hitting them with even more UV light or getting a new batch of resin. After a couple of months of the bottle being opened the Resin gets old and then can produce weird results.

as usual, amazing video by you. a+ presentation. thank you for providing the link in the description too! question, where might we possibly be able to find that gengar in the begining of your video??

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Aww cheers mate 😊 the STL link is near the bottom of the Full Written up article, I'll post it here for you - www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132

Im using anycubic photon mono with anycubic resin. I ve just found 3s exp time recently. Is it okay? I used resin xp2 validation matrix and printed perfectly.

Question, do I have to change the settings on the printer and the software or just on the printer?

Ohhhh I recieved a printer for Christmas Christmas was trying to print stamps for clay but my design was getting muddled together I didn't know I could deviate from the options on the resin bottle

im late to the party but this is an amazing video! I kept getting failed prints with my anycubic photon mono x2 using anycubic clear resin and manufacturer settings (2.5 sec exposure time). I suspected that it was to low exposure and wow did this test validate that! I still need to dial it in, but i should be between 3.0 and 3.5!

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Glad it helped!

The ambient room temperature and the temperature of the resin is also important.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Spot on, checking and updating your profile as the seasons changes is a good tip, but a random wild weather day can certainly throw your results for a loop.

What resin is that nice purple gengar? I have trouble finding purple resin

I appreciate this dawg!

Try the 3DRS Starship Calibration test over this one for real world usage!

Thank you so much. This vidéo was really helpfull. Clear explanations. Well made video.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate 😊

are there any other settings that needs to be tested and changed as well? as ecposure time

i printed an absolutley perfect rook with 2.5, using the mars 2 pro and there grey resin. seems i got real lucky rite out the box.

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Happy days 😊!

hi, do we need to adjust the exposure time for different layer height? say, 0.03mm, vs 0.05mm.

After 5 years of FDM printing I finally bought a resin printer, on my first print I used your calibration matrix, well I got extremely lucky I used 50um layer height and guessed a cure time of 2.5 with Conjure Rigid Clear Blue and I can count 13 Holes and 13 Pins. Being around aircraft fluids and eating food with literal black hands I didn't think I would mind the cleaning. Unfortunately, it's not as satisfying to rush to the printer and pull off the print. The print does look amazing, and it was even more impressive when I pulled the STL files into CAD and measured the 13th at 0.100mm and the 13th hole was actually a SQUARE measuring at 0.070mm x 0.070mm. Wish me luck, I have some soul searching to do and hopefully I can reconcile this..........

@Core-Electronics

6 ай бұрын

Best of luck!

This is great information, I just received a creality printer so will fine tune it. However where does one find this Gengar print?

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Here's the link to the Gengar model www.thingiverse.com/thing:5028132

interestingly i have the same printer as you but needed to actually increase the exposure time to 3.8s to get supports to stick, with the anycubic "rapid" resin.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Proper interesting to know, goes to show the big differences between different brands of resin (when out of the box and poured into the VAT they can look exactly the same)

Literary theory video I was looking for (:

I might be a bit late to the party! but amazing video very clear explanations about the exposure times one of the best videos on youtube. I do have question tho! i have been looking for videos about the Halot one combined with Elegoo water washable resin 405nm. I cannot seem to find anything on youtube or the internet. I was hoping you could help me out with this, like the proper exposure settings. I have been messing around with the exposure times for the WW resin for about 2 weeks now and i cannot for the life me find the correct exposure settings.

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for your very kind words 😊 and Elegoo water washable resin isn't one I have used yet. Is the process outlined in the video not working for your set up?

Fantastic Vid, thank you so much

Great explanation, thanks for the good content!! :D

Thanks for the recommendation to this video. What would you consider to be the optimal times to wash and cure on the post processing? Since you state IPA kills the most tiny details and curing could also cause overexposure? Would you share some recommendations on the optimal time spent washing and curing please? Thanks again for all your wisdom

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

I'll hit each module for 10 minutes in the IPA Wash station at low. Then I'll hit the models with 5 minute cure at slow speed, rotate the model so the bottom faces up, then do another 5 minute cure. After that it should be all good to go 😊 If it still feels tacky I hit it with 5 more minutes of curing.

Can you solve my problem i am a jewelry and i use anycubic M3 Premium my almost print fail due to bad exposure setting plz can you suggest me the best exposure setting for my 3d printer for jewelry wax

How are you putting them into the slicer? flat on the bed or at an angle with supports?

@radiomuffin

2 жыл бұрын

Flat, set the base layers to 4 and it's relatively easy to remove from your build plate despite being large surface area.

do you need to scaled to fit build plate? with Validation_Matrix

extremely useful video, Thanks a lot !

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

My pleasure mate 😊

I'm using Anycubic mono X with their basic resins in a light color. My perfect print settings (on a new printer) were: UV light strength @70%, 1.5 sec exp time, 6 bottom layers, 35 sec exp time. After 50 hours of print I started getting underexposed prints so I upped UV light strength to 75%, everything else stayed the same. Still getting perfect prints. I change FEP sheets every 25 hours of print time or so. I printed about 5 liters of resin (printing mostly full build plates).

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers for sharing mate 😊 love hearing success stories and your experience with your machine over time.

Thank. you. for. your. video. !!!!!

Would any of this change when using an 8K resin?

great, thanks for sharing 👍

After the first Matrix was done printed and removed from the Platform, Do I have to Level it again or is it possible to print the next exposure test right after that?

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Once you have leveled the platform once your good to go. It is good practice to do so once every 6 months, but so long as those screws (that you tightened to level the build platform) are still tight the build platform will still be level. Hope that helps 😊

Still got all them lines on the model there I wouldn't call that perfect! This is exactly what we are trying to find how to solve these build mesh lines that are printed on the model I see them all over the body there the details are great but the step lines are still there!

Dear friend. Congratulatios for ths video! Very helpfull! The setting for the LD-002H, is for all Creality Resin? Thank You. Pedro. Portugal.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks mate 😊 the settings I found here was for my LD-002H 3D Printer and Grey Creality Resin Combo. I highly recommend running these tests for your own machine as exposure time is dependent on all kinds of factors, even climate. I reckon your Portugal summers would be different than our Australian ones. Take care!

@pedrosoares9603

2 жыл бұрын

@@Core-Electronics thank you. I will try. I brought the black resin from creality. Let's get some tests.

WOW! Impresive information

Hi friend, im new and having a lot of problems, im using the same resin, but using halot box slicer. Can you help me with the settings? Please.

THANKS!!!!!!!!

very informative, good job keep it up

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Cheers mate 😊 will do my best

The Cones of Calibration!

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Proper interesting! I'll give these Cones of Calibration a good looksie 😊 Thanks.

Just Brilliant 👍🥰

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Big love 💖

I've been using this method for my first three prints and ended up with the gap/ hole / whatever you want to call it seen in your over exposed test strip ( on the left half of the infinity symbol ) at time stamp 5:18, I moved the print to the left side of the build plate and ended up with perfect results using the same exposure settings for the burn in and the regular exposure time. Does this indicate I need to recalibrate my build plate 0 settings for the Z axis or something to do with exposure that I just need more test runs for to dial in the perfect exposure settings? Also thanks for the great video it helped me make the plunge into the world of resin printing !

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

It's hard to say, you may need to re-level and home the build plate, which if you haven't done recently is a good idea to do anyway. But you might be experiencing the different levels of UV intensity that occurs further away from the center of the screen. Since the UV light is not emitted from the screen but by a LED die underneath, the edges of the screen receive slightly less light than the center meaning that your exposure times would be slightly different at the edge.

@meanderingobsession680

2 жыл бұрын

@@Core-Electronics It did end up being the leveling, Thanks for the help !

Hi! Nice video. But now I have a question. Do I have to put an exposure time to the bottom layers to make this test print or just with the exposure time of the normal layers. For example. Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 0 s? or Normal layer 1.7 s and Bottom layers 17 s?

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Thank you mate 😉 Print the exposure tests with 4 bottom layers and like in your example use 17 second bottom layers and 1.7 second for normal layers.

@Panico747II

2 жыл бұрын

10x is very high for bottom layer, I use 2.0 sec and bottom only 8-10 sec, for a loooong time and never fail.

What about the instructions on the bottle of resin, for example I'm trying out the Elegoo ABS and they recommend 8sec normal exposure & 60sec bottom exposure. How accurate are these settings when printing.

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Resin Manufacturers, much in the same way as Printer Manufacturers, want your first couple of 3D prints with their material to be successful. This means normally providing settings that are over-exposed, so that you won't have models falling off the build platform. I haven't done experiments with that particular resin but to me those numbers seem large for a Mono-screen Resin 3D printer. I would definitely run test on it with my particular printer before committing to large or intricate prints.

@HotCarTrack

2 жыл бұрын

@@Core-Electronics Thanks for getting back, I also thought those settings were a little over the top however after a few test prints they seem about right for my 28mm prints.

very useful thank you

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

I get same problems with typical over exposure and under exposure. Bits overlay too much and also thinnest details are missing or partial. Struggle with setting PWM light and right exposre time

Thanks for your sharing

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

😊

Does this apply to water-washable resin as well? they are trying to say 60s burn in and 8s normal layer. Idk if the composition is different or something by my prints so far are basically glued to the build plate and damn near impossible to remove without alot of working it. I'm order a flex plate so that won't matter soon but one of my prints were so welded on that it damaged parts of the plate trying to remove it.

@GBFishhhs

2 жыл бұрын

Got the same problem but I don’t think it's the resin it's the files settings because the test models I've got work really and get off the plate easily...

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Having a flex plate is definitely the best solution to removing models. 60 second burn in seems too long to me, that length of time would get the resin and tank pretty hot, particularly on Monochrome Screen Printers. I have not used water soluble resin however I would run some test using significantly lower Burn in layer times. If careful a razor blade is the perfect tool to lift up an edge to then get the metal spatula underneath to remove the printed model.

@NerdLegionInc

2 жыл бұрын

@@Core-Electronics Thanks! My flex plate just came in, and yea after talking to a facebook group more about it I ran some of your tests and found around 40 sec bottom and 4.5 normal exposure seem to be pretty close for the water wash. I'm having issues now with prints with supports just getting peeled from the supports but I think that my fep sheet is ruined so I bought some ptfe lube and new sheets, hoping that fixes the problem as I even tested it with a ton of supports and its still getting ripped off. instead of a thump it sounds like a bandaid getting peeled off.

Hi,great video,but I’m pulling my hair out,when I go to settings on halot one on lychee,I have very few parameters to adjust,simply volume ,screen and default transition layers,there are other settings to adjust on the printer screen,but nothing to compare what you are showing,getting to the point of giving up

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Just had a look for you and your absolutely right, the options available with that machine are less than they should. If you set up the Halot (LD-006) 3D printer in the Chitubox Slicer all the settings you would expect are there. So I'd recommend using Chitubox with that Printer until Lychee updates itself.

Waw, this was interesting !

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Glad you think so!

When you say you have to do another exposure test with a new resin, do you mean retesting the resin of the same kind, a resin of a different kind, or both?

@Core-Electronics

2 жыл бұрын

Nice question, resins of the same brand but different colours/transparency are definitely worth re-running these tests as the exposure light will travel through the resins differently (in regards to both penetration and dispersal through the liquid). An argument can also be made for re-testing the exact same brand and type of resin if your are using a new bottle (as variance can occur between batches from the manufacturer) but normally you will be good to go with the same settings.

Great video ... thank you.

@Core-Electronics

Жыл бұрын

Glad you liked it!