Thank you for posting this video. I just replaced the igniter module on an older Hayward H400. The unit started making the same sounds. I will take a look at the thermostat, manifold, and bypass valve for scale build up.

Thanks for the video. I didn’t understand the noise before this. I learned from another repair video that the first step is to make sure all of the filters are clean. Most issues arise from decreased flow to the heater. The temp will rise inside with knocking sounds from boiling, and it will shut down. It saved me a lot of time and money.

Hi there. Really appreciate you sharing this video. It’s the same problem I had with this heater. In addition to the debris I also had narrowing lumens in three of the water pipes. I used a drill to open them up a bit. Replaced the Thermal regulator as it was is nasty shape. Was able to reconnect and fire everything up. Heater started working…yay! Clearly I need to pay more attention to balancing my water.

Thanks for posting! My Jandy was having the same issue. A supposedly reputable pool equipment repair person came and told me I needed a new heater. 5500 installed that would have run. Luckily I found your video before making the decision to buy a new one. Though the Jandy is laid out a bit different, the components and general arrangement is the same. Followed your video, cleaned out the scale and now my heater is tip top.

Had a tech come out 4 times. Tried another who attempted. No results. Saw this video and it did the trick! 😊 THANK YOU!!

@pg42

Жыл бұрын

Fantastic. It's very gratifying to know that this helped

My heater was recently damaged due to the cold weather here in Texas, and I was getting ready to take this manifold off because it looks like that’s where the water is leaking from. I watch this video and it will be a big help for me when I go to take that off. I understand the effort it takes to make this and I wanted to say thanks for uploading it and making it available. Again it was a big help.

@pg42

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the note

@barbarosteve3942

3 жыл бұрын

La

Pardon my French--but this is a balls on video. I followed along and found the first 3 tubes were clogged like yours. Strange--the other 6 were fine. However the vacuum was woefully inadequate. #2 from the right had calcified into rock--there was no vacuuming/chipping away at this crap. Northern Illinois well water. I pushed in and twisted the screwdriver to no avail--and then I thought about my spade bits! Worked perfectly. Used my oldest drill and almost burned it up, but I now have mostly clear pipes--and no knocking. Was careful not to twist during the drilling process. Thermostat tested fine in hot water as well. Thanks so much for doing this.

@pg42

2 жыл бұрын

That's amazing! I thought mine was pretty bad, but I didn't need to drill it out. Thanks for the comment.

Mine was doing this big time. I have a Raypak 336A which has a different cast iron manifold with just the 2 inlet and outlet pipes. The unitherm governor is behind the large square brass nut below the outlet pipe. Still this video shows excellent directions. Thanks.

Excellent video very informative and instructional.

Thanks. My 406A makes a gurgling noise. I recently replaced all of the plumbing on the pad and upsized it, now my water isn't heating up as fast. I'm going to pull the governor tomorrow and take a look at it. Your video was very helpful at demonstrating the process. *PS* I noticed it looks like you have non-pressure rated drain-waste-vent elbows attached to your unions.s

For those wondering how the thermostat works: ​⁠​⁠Only a small amount of water goes through the tubes in the heater, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.

@stilljustaguy

2 ай бұрын

Now that I cleaned the manifold, replaced uniform governor, and the temp sensor in the manifold, it’s not getting as hot as it previously was. How do I adjust it so it heats up more water ? Heats it faster? I did all this cause I got flame roll out and it was heating to much it popped fuse. Now it appears to be working and running great but the water is ust not getting hot enough.

your tutorial helped me a lot I thank you infinitely

Also I would recommend you disconnect all of the wires from the manifold so you can take a water hose and force water through all of the manifold holes. The manifold for the 336a is one piece not two. Also there is no main gasket. There are gaskets on the 8 pipe connections.

Very well done. Thanks for the video...

I have a master temp400 and it sounds just like yours did. Hopefully that’s my problem! Thanks for the helpful video 👍🏻

Nice video. Big thanks. I'll try this tomorrow.

Great Video! Learned a lot!

Awesome video

Great video thank you sir....

Great video Thanks

Great video. I had a similar problem, I would see low water flow through my pump and loud gurgling, water constriction sounds at the heater inlet/outlet. Opened it up and found both metal components in the inlet/outlet had rusted out. WORD OF CAUTION - do not over-tighten the nuts on the manifold screws!! I did and snapped one clean off - was NOT easy to replace. Also, I would advise using liquid gasket (Permatex RTV) rather than grease around the o-ring, it will ensure over time you will never have a leak. Thanks for sharing!

@strongholdinc1843

Жыл бұрын

Same issues, found spring and rusted bolt in there. Still need to find parts but working on it. Thank you

Thanks for this video !

Thank you so much

nice video lots of information! thanks!

@pg42

3 жыл бұрын

Glad it helped

Everyone with these issues also check to make sure the whole area behind that manifold is clear of crap. A lot of heaters go bad due to corrosion or bad chemistry. Also if you have a chlorine feeder right before the outlet make sure to use a Hartford loop or check valve as these will eat up your exchanger in a year. Your pool will oxidize with copper and turn a greenish copper color. And it's a biotch to get out. For those with a mastertemp from pentair. They have a similar item called a thermal regulator held with a spring. However the banging noise is usually due to a broken bypass behind the manifold which gets jammed in the outlet line. This requires a whole new bypass. Not just a regulator. Not the easiest repair. Call a professional if you are not comfortable with this stuff. I've seen many people get hurt or cause damage working on heaters. Gas and electric. It's unfortunately not a DIY for most. If getting the high limit 2 error this and water flow (dirty filter) are usually the issue. The sensor itself isn't a common failure. There is a limit 1 and 2 switch. Have fun

Great video. Thanks!

@pg42

2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the feedback

You missed taking a look at the bypass valve. Judging by the very large amount of debri you had in your heater, you should have lifted that second panel inside that header and checked the bypass valve. With the corrosion you had, that shaft was probably full of grit and the valve was probably stuck. It is a simple matter to pull out that valve and clean the shaft and tunnel the closing part slides on so the valve opens and closes. One more 2 minute step to a perfect repair. I was amazed by the amount of junk in your heater and the exchanger was not leaking. Lucky. New exchanger is $600.

Great video much appreciated. After research I identified this as a cause of my high limit 2 error code, along with the banging. Wondering why you did not drill out the ports as I have seen in other videos? Also why did you not check the high limit switches and temp sensors? Finally this is beyond my comfort level to work on so my question is how long / $ for a tech to fix? Thanks so much.

Thanks for posting. My buddy who is not real handy has the same issue. Almost exact same noise. I will crack it open and see if this scale is the culprit.

@pg42

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment. Please add a post to say if it was the same issue.

It is silicone lube not grease. The lube prevents the O-rings from turning brittle and cracking from contact with chlorine. Never use Vaseline or anything but silicone lube.

@mrkengage

2 жыл бұрын

Magic Lube is the brand a lot of pool guys use for various gaskets and O-rings. FYI.

Hey this worked great. But now it’s not heating up the water as fast. Previously before I cleaned it, it was heating too much and pop fuse. Cleaned everything and replaced the govnor and temp sensor. So what else can I go to find a happy medium?

This occurred after 2 summers of service (about a 5 months season) with moderate use. However, I filled the pool from my well and I have very hard well water (280 ppm)..

Yes, great video. On the uniform govenor, I have a spring in mine that isn't that easy getting the cover back on. Anyone else out there have the same type of spring behind the govenor?

@chengkhang2804

4 жыл бұрын

that is a by-pass valve most likely

@nickp3270

Жыл бұрын

@@chengkhang2804 pentair has a spring behind theirs in the master temp may be that type

Is yours the model 266A? Looks just like mine. Last year I had the same noise. Called tech on it. They suggested replacing the thermostat unitherm governor. Two days later, noise was gone before I could get to it. But now the inlet/outlet manifold has sprung a hissing leak at the inside welded joint. Looks like I’ll be getting in this area of heater after all. Probably a good thing anyways. I can get in there and clean things out too. It’s been in use since 2014, and has been a great heater up to this point. No complaints. Thx for the video.

@trickshotz1864

3 жыл бұрын

Currently have the same model. 3 summers now. Getting a Hi Limit 1 fault especially when temperature is increased to 90F. Any thoughts?

@mrkengage

2 жыл бұрын

They're one of the best pool heaters, but over time chlorine and scale can be Hell on the heater manifold and force a premature replacement of it (the manifold) in order to get a full or maximum life out of your heater.

Very nice video!! I have a High Limit 2 Fault. Already replaced both High-limit TCOs but no luck. Would this procedure of cleaning out the scale buildup solve that issue?

@pg42

Жыл бұрын

I don't know enough about the faults to advise you. I can say that it's pretty easy to take the thermostat (unitherm governor) out and see what is inside.

Great video! How long does it take pool heater to become packed with scale like that ?

@chengkhang2804

4 жыл бұрын

depends on your water hardness or overall saturation index

@Dimewick21

Жыл бұрын

We have some of the nations hardest water in Las Vegas. It’s a very tough task keeping water balanced here. Our heater was about 3 years old when I had to clean it out. Really not a bad job. About 3 hours to do, but now that did it once, I guessing I’ll probably be able to get it done in less than 2 hours next time.

Yes it helped thank you

Is this a salt pool?

Just in case you know.... The new Raypak/Rheem heater header has a sacrificial anode well directly in front of one of the header nuts. I have NO idea how to access that. I need to reverse the headers. Regardless, the bypass valve may need to be accessed in the future. What tool do I need to access that nut? Moreover, how do I get the nut back on the bolt on the other side of the heater? Can barely touch the bolt with one finger. Whoever engineered this snanfu should have to work on every damn one of them! Customer wanted heated pool for the holidays, ain't gonna happen. I've been in the business for 25 years, and getting more pissed by the day on what factories are putting out. I called factory rep on this, no response. Aside from all that, Happy Holidays everyone! .

@riverrat9412

3 жыл бұрын

Unscrew the entire anode to move it out of the way. With a big channel lock. The anode is threaded on like a plug, and not machined on. Maybe I am missing something, but I assume that's what ya meant

@steveaoti3044

2 жыл бұрын

I reversed my header no problem. Just use a 3" extension on a universal swivel and you can get it off and on again. Obviously, once flipping the header thread the nuts by hand first. Then use your ratchet, extension, and universal socket and your golden.

So, if my heater is bypassed but it still makes a shaky intermittent rumbling sound, is it the same issue, scale buildup? It’s not real loud or anything. I Also notice that the chlorinator appears to sound like there’s little pebbles in it, or the connecting pipes, making a constant knocking sound. What could this be?

@pg42

2 жыл бұрын

I'm afraid I don't have any experience with the heater bypassed. Inspecting seems like a good idea if it's not too difficult to disassemble.

How exactly does the bypass valve and thermostat work?

@pg42

Жыл бұрын

I think the thermostat (Raypak calls it a unitherm governor) stays closed to until the water in the tubes gets up to temperature, then it opens to let water circulate through the heater tubes. I'm pretty sure that's what the technical guy at Raypak told me. It's easy to test it by putting it in hot water as see if it opens

@Billy18bm

Жыл бұрын

@@pg42 wasn’t really following how it opening and closing was restricting the flow to the tubes.

@Tevon93

3 ай бұрын

⁠@@Billy18bmOnly a small amount of water goes through the tubes, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.

Mine is doing the same but when I pulled it the governor looks like new. Does anyone know if there a second governor or anything else that may cause this knocking.

@pg42

4 жыл бұрын

Man, I'm afraid that you've exceeded my knowledge of pool heaters. However, I can tell you that the guy that I talked to at Raypak was very knowledgeable and very helpful. You could try calling the factory.

@chengkhang2804

4 жыл бұрын

when does it knock? and there is only one

@danielm9557

4 жыл бұрын

When it is heating up. It knocks just like in the video. over and over almost like there is bird trapped inside trying to get out. I cleaned mine before heating it up so I knew there was nothing in the heater but still unnerving.

@danielm9557

4 жыл бұрын

@@pg42 Thank you I will give them a call. Thank you for the video I will keep it in mind for the future. BTW mine just stopped making the noise after a week or so. Also the heater stopped heating last year "Rollout SW open" error. If this ever happens call RayPak and they can send you a switch that resets instead of having to replace it with a new switch everytime.

@bucksfan8344

3 жыл бұрын

@@danielm9557 I jus installed a raypak 333,000 btu unit and it did the knocking bird trapped sounds from day 1 and its only been hook up for 3 days now, the pool heated from 67 to 84 in 24 hrs but the bird thing is driving me nuts

Did anyone get a "High Limit 2 Open" message? how can that be fixed?

@pg42

2 жыл бұрын

I'm afraid I'm no help on this one

Fast if you have hard water.

Salt destroys everything... But yet people keep wanting salt pool .. us in the north east see what salt does to our roads .. it's the same with the pool heaters...

your filter is not doing a very good job with keeping debris out of the heater

@pg42

4 жыл бұрын

I believe that the debris is a build up of scale from the minerals in the water.

@chengkhang2804

4 жыл бұрын

@@pg42 could be the sudden increase in water temperature during the heating process causing it to come out of solution, thus having mainly scale build up on the return side.