Thank you for posting this video. I just replaced the igniter module on an older Hayward H400. The unit started making the same sounds. I will take a look at the thermostat, manifold, and bypass valve for scale build up.
@Dave-Gear322 ай бұрын
Great video Thanks
@SteveArnold-un1oh3 ай бұрын
Great video thank you sir....
@stilljustaguy3 ай бұрын
Hey this worked great. But now it’s not heating up the water as fast. Previously before I cleaned it, it was heating too much and pop fuse. Cleaned everything and replaced the govnor and temp sensor. So what else can I go to find a happy medium?
@Tevon934 ай бұрын
For those wondering how the thermostat works: Only a small amount of water goes through the tubes in the heater, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.
@stilljustaguy3 ай бұрын
Now that I cleaned the manifold, replaced uniform governor, and the temp sensor in the manifold, it’s not getting as hot as it previously was. How do I adjust it so it heats up more water ? Heats it faster? I did all this cause I got flame roll out and it was heating to much it popped fuse. Now it appears to be working and running great but the water is ust not getting hot enough.
@rafaellopez55937 ай бұрын
Quitenle la máscara a el oso para que se coma a los memsos esos
@justinreynolds39357 ай бұрын
Everyone with these issues also check to make sure the whole area behind that manifold is clear of crap. A lot of heaters go bad due to corrosion or bad chemistry. Also if you have a chlorine feeder right before the outlet make sure to use a Hartford loop or check valve as these will eat up your exchanger in a year. Your pool will oxidize with copper and turn a greenish copper color. And it's a biotch to get out. For those with a mastertemp from pentair. They have a similar item called a thermal regulator held with a spring. However the banging noise is usually due to a broken bypass behind the manifold which gets jammed in the outlet line. This requires a whole new bypass. Not just a regulator. Not the easiest repair. Call a professional if you are not comfortable with this stuff. I've seen many people get hurt or cause damage working on heaters. Gas and electric. It's unfortunately not a DIY for most. If getting the high limit 2 error this and water flow (dirty filter) are usually the issue. The sensor itself isn't a common failure. There is a limit 1 and 2 switch. Have fun
@jimcole9859 ай бұрын
Who has the tape of the complete tape cuz I I wrestled that night I was the last
@pg429 ай бұрын
Sorry, that's all I got. I was the last guy in the video.
@jimcole9859 ай бұрын
Where can you get the rest of this video I was the last man that night
@joelong934911 ай бұрын
Also I would recommend you disconnect all of the wires from the manifold so you can take a water hose and force water through all of the manifold holes. The manifold for the 336a is one piece not two. Also there is no main gasket. There are gaskets on the 8 pipe connections.
@joelong934911 ай бұрын
Mine was doing this big time. I have a Raypak 336A which has a different cast iron manifold with just the 2 inlet and outlet pipes. The unitherm governor is behind the large square brass nut below the outlet pipe. Still this video shows excellent directions. Thanks.
@vincent2204611 ай бұрын
Thanks for the video. I didn’t understand the noise before this. I learned from another repair video that the first step is to make sure all of the filters are clean. Most issues arise from decreased flow to the heater. The temp will rise inside with knocking sounds from boiling, and it will shut down. It saved me a lot of time and money.
@robbefumo8363 Жыл бұрын
Great video much appreciated. After research I identified this as a cause of my high limit 2 error code, along with the banging. Wondering why you did not drill out the ports as I have seen in other videos? Also why did you not check the high limit switches and temp sensors? Finally this is beyond my comfort level to work on so my question is how long / $ for a tech to fix? Thanks so much.
@strongholdinc1843 Жыл бұрын
Yes it helped thank you
@davidpage5388 Жыл бұрын
Had a tech come out 4 times. Tried another who attempted. No results. Saw this video and it did the trick! 😊 THANK YOU!!
@pg42 Жыл бұрын
Fantastic. It's very gratifying to know that this helped
@MarcosHernandez-xj6mm Жыл бұрын
Awesome video
@Dimewick21 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for posting! My Jandy was having the same issue. A supposedly reputable pool equipment repair person came and told me I needed a new heater. 5500 installed that would have run. Luckily I found your video before making the decision to buy a new one. Though the Jandy is laid out a bit different, the components and general arrangement is the same. Followed your video, cleaned out the scale and now my heater is tip top.
@titolopez1336 Жыл бұрын
your tutorial helped me a lot I thank you infinitely
@2tiddies404 Жыл бұрын
that was a dope ass single leg to a back take by the bear.
@residentpotato6023 Жыл бұрын
Too bad it never got to sink it’s teeth into that fruitcake Mayor Pete.
@quevenmz8456 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video !
@wewhat2035 Жыл бұрын
This bear must’ve lived a hell of a life
@alz.heimer2874 Жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for posting these. I'm Russ Brinegar, the car salesman from South Bend, Indiana, who wrestled Victor in 1985. I was in the middle of my divorce and had lots of beer in me that night. I've told friends and family this story, and wondered if they even believed me. now I have proof thanks to your video, I never dreamed I would see this, thank you so very much - Russ
@pg42 Жыл бұрын
Russ, I can't believe that you found this video after 37 years. And no one can doubt that it's you after hearing the introduction. Thanks for letting me know that you found it
@kennyrogers3919 Жыл бұрын
I have a master temp400 and it sounds just like yours did. Hopefully that’s my problem! Thanks for the helpful video 👍🏻
@freshdirty27 Жыл бұрын
Salt destroys everything... But yet people keep wanting salt pool .. us in the north east see what salt does to our roads .. it's the same with the pool heaters...
@Billy18bm Жыл бұрын
How exactly does the bypass valve and thermostat work?
@pg42 Жыл бұрын
I think the thermostat (Raypak calls it a unitherm governor) stays closed to until the water in the tubes gets up to temperature, then it opens to let water circulate through the heater tubes. I'm pretty sure that's what the technical guy at Raypak told me. It's easy to test it by putting it in hot water as see if it opens
@Billy18bm Жыл бұрын
@@pg42 wasn’t really following how it opening and closing was restricting the flow to the tubes.
@Tevon934 ай бұрын
@@Billy18bmOnly a small amount of water goes through the tubes, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.
@juanitosamsung2 жыл бұрын
Very nice video!! I have a High Limit 2 Fault. Already replaced both High-limit TCOs but no luck. Would this procedure of cleaning out the scale buildup solve that issue?
@pg42 Жыл бұрын
I don't know enough about the faults to advise you. I can say that it's pretty easy to take the thermostat (unitherm governor) out and see what is inside.
@slamjam0042 жыл бұрын
Did anyone get a "High Limit 2 Open" message? how can that be fixed?
@pg422 жыл бұрын
I'm afraid I'm no help on this one
@jesapizza41972 жыл бұрын
Pardon my French--but this is a balls on video. I followed along and found the first 3 tubes were clogged like yours. Strange--the other 6 were fine. However the vacuum was woefully inadequate. #2 from the right had calcified into rock--there was no vacuuming/chipping away at this crap. Northern Illinois well water. I pushed in and twisted the screwdriver to no avail--and then I thought about my spade bits! Worked perfectly. Used my oldest drill and almost burned it up, but I now have mostly clear pipes--and no knocking. Was careful not to twist during the drilling process. Thermostat tested fine in hot water as well. Thanks so much for doing this.
@pg422 жыл бұрын
That's amazing! I thought mine was pretty bad, but I didn't need to drill it out. Thanks for the comment.
@seanwerlick31682 жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks!
@pg422 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback
@chrislavender31542 жыл бұрын
Hi there. Really appreciate you sharing this video. It’s the same problem I had with this heater. In addition to the debris I also had narrowing lumens in three of the water pipes. I used a drill to open them up a bit. Replaced the Thermal regulator as it was is nasty shape. Was able to reconnect and fire everything up. Heater started working…yay! Clearly I need to pay more attention to balancing my water.
@jimheger2 жыл бұрын
Nice video. Big thanks. I'll try this tomorrow.
@jedcarson37692 жыл бұрын
Is this a salt pool?
@joeromito2992 жыл бұрын
So, if my heater is bypassed but it still makes a shaky intermittent rumbling sound, is it the same issue, scale buildup? It’s not real loud or anything. I Also notice that the chlorinator appears to sound like there’s little pebbles in it, or the connecting pipes, making a constant knocking sound. What could this be?
@pg422 жыл бұрын
I'm afraid I don't have any experience with the heater bypassed. Inspecting seems like a good idea if it's not too difficult to disassemble.
@joeromito2992 жыл бұрын
Excellent video very informative and instructional.
@lorenzothomas61263 жыл бұрын
Great Video! Learned a lot!
@thelmadelprado66533 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much
@matthewpace58343 жыл бұрын
Thanks for posting. My buddy who is not real handy has the same issue. Almost exact same noise. I will crack it open and see if this scale is the culprit.
@pg423 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment. Please add a post to say if it was the same issue.
@RandallDelling3 жыл бұрын
You missed taking a look at the bypass valve. Judging by the very large amount of debri you had in your heater, you should have lifted that second panel inside that header and checked the bypass valve. With the corrosion you had, that shaft was probably full of grit and the valve was probably stuck. It is a simple matter to pull out that valve and clean the shaft and tunnel the closing part slides on so the valve opens and closes. One more 2 minute step to a perfect repair. I was amazed by the amount of junk in your heater and the exchanger was not leaking. Lucky. New exchanger is $600.
@lazylynzie213 жыл бұрын
Ooo cool! My dad wrestled him too!!! Said he got thrown around! And my pops is STRONG! He just showed me this video! Idk why they think they can put Victor in a head lock!! Hahaha
@pg423 жыл бұрын
I just tried to survive
@dictumfactum77843 жыл бұрын
Fast if you have hard water.
@billburkhalter4113 жыл бұрын
It is silicone lube not grease. The lube prevents the O-rings from turning brittle and cracking from contact with chlorine. Never use Vaseline or anything but silicone lube.
@mrkengage2 жыл бұрын
Magic Lube is the brand a lot of pool guys use for various gaskets and O-rings. FYI.
@ashplumber46893 жыл бұрын
nice video lots of information! thanks!
@pg423 жыл бұрын
Glad it helped
@DaveWilburn-USAF3 жыл бұрын
My heater was recently damaged due to the cold weather here in Texas, and I was getting ready to take this manifold off because it looks like that’s where the water is leaking from. I watch this video and it will be a big help for me when I go to take that off. I understand the effort it takes to make this and I wanted to say thanks for uploading it and making it available. Again it was a big help.
@pg423 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the note
@barbarosteve39423 жыл бұрын
La
@mayorb33663 жыл бұрын
Just in case you know.... The new Raypak/Rheem heater header has a sacrificial anode well directly in front of one of the header nuts. I have NO idea how to access that. I need to reverse the headers. Regardless, the bypass valve may need to be accessed in the future. What tool do I need to access that nut? Moreover, how do I get the nut back on the bolt on the other side of the heater? Can barely touch the bolt with one finger. Whoever engineered this snanfu should have to work on every damn one of them! Customer wanted heated pool for the holidays, ain't gonna happen. I've been in the business for 25 years, and getting more pissed by the day on what factories are putting out. I called factory rep on this, no response. Aside from all that, Happy Holidays everyone! .
@riverrat94123 жыл бұрын
Unscrew the entire anode to move it out of the way. With a big channel lock. The anode is threaded on like a plug, and not machined on. Maybe I am missing something, but I assume that's what ya meant
@steveaoti30443 жыл бұрын
I reversed my header no problem. Just use a 3" extension on a universal swivel and you can get it off and on again. Obviously, once flipping the header thread the nuts by hand first. Then use your ratchet, extension, and universal socket and your golden.
@PrimusPilus733 жыл бұрын
Thanks. My 406A makes a gurgling noise. I recently replaced all of the plumbing on the pad and upsized it, now my water isn't heating up as fast. I'm going to pull the governor tomorrow and take a look at it. Your video was very helpful at demonstrating the process. *PS* I noticed it looks like you have non-pressure rated drain-waste-vent elbows attached to your unions.s
@kerri79713 жыл бұрын
My uncle wrestled this bear back in the late 60’s, he got his butt kicked. My favorite uncle!
@pg423 жыл бұрын
I think we all got our buts kicked
@tundrawhisperer48214 жыл бұрын
Is yours the model 266A? Looks just like mine. Last year I had the same noise. Called tech on it. They suggested replacing the thermostat unitherm governor. Two days later, noise was gone before I could get to it. But now the inlet/outlet manifold has sprung a hissing leak at the inside welded joint. Looks like I’ll be getting in this area of heater after all. Probably a good thing anyways. I can get in there and clean things out too. It’s been in use since 2014, and has been a great heater up to this point. No complaints. Thx for the video.
@trickshotz18643 жыл бұрын
Currently have the same model. 3 summers now. Getting a Hi Limit 1 fault especially when temperature is increased to 90F. Any thoughts?
@mrkengage2 жыл бұрын
They're one of the best pool heaters, but over time chlorine and scale can be Hell on the heater manifold and force a premature replacement of it (the manifold) in order to get a full or maximum life out of your heater.
@chengkhang28044 жыл бұрын
your filter is not doing a very good job with keeping debris out of the heater
@pg424 жыл бұрын
I believe that the debris is a build up of scale from the minerals in the water.
@chengkhang28044 жыл бұрын
@@pg42 could be the sudden increase in water temperature during the heating process causing it to come out of solution, thus having mainly scale build up on the return side.
Пікірлер
Excellent video!
Thank you for posting this video. I just replaced the igniter module on an older Hayward H400. The unit started making the same sounds. I will take a look at the thermostat, manifold, and bypass valve for scale build up.
Great video Thanks
Great video thank you sir....
Hey this worked great. But now it’s not heating up the water as fast. Previously before I cleaned it, it was heating too much and pop fuse. Cleaned everything and replaced the govnor and temp sensor. So what else can I go to find a happy medium?
For those wondering how the thermostat works: Only a small amount of water goes through the tubes in the heater, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.
Now that I cleaned the manifold, replaced uniform governor, and the temp sensor in the manifold, it’s not getting as hot as it previously was. How do I adjust it so it heats up more water ? Heats it faster? I did all this cause I got flame roll out and it was heating to much it popped fuse. Now it appears to be working and running great but the water is ust not getting hot enough.
Quitenle la máscara a el oso para que se coma a los memsos esos
Everyone with these issues also check to make sure the whole area behind that manifold is clear of crap. A lot of heaters go bad due to corrosion or bad chemistry. Also if you have a chlorine feeder right before the outlet make sure to use a Hartford loop or check valve as these will eat up your exchanger in a year. Your pool will oxidize with copper and turn a greenish copper color. And it's a biotch to get out. For those with a mastertemp from pentair. They have a similar item called a thermal regulator held with a spring. However the banging noise is usually due to a broken bypass behind the manifold which gets jammed in the outlet line. This requires a whole new bypass. Not just a regulator. Not the easiest repair. Call a professional if you are not comfortable with this stuff. I've seen many people get hurt or cause damage working on heaters. Gas and electric. It's unfortunately not a DIY for most. If getting the high limit 2 error this and water flow (dirty filter) are usually the issue. The sensor itself isn't a common failure. There is a limit 1 and 2 switch. Have fun
Who has the tape of the complete tape cuz I I wrestled that night I was the last
Sorry, that's all I got. I was the last guy in the video.
Where can you get the rest of this video I was the last man that night
Also I would recommend you disconnect all of the wires from the manifold so you can take a water hose and force water through all of the manifold holes. The manifold for the 336a is one piece not two. Also there is no main gasket. There are gaskets on the 8 pipe connections.
Mine was doing this big time. I have a Raypak 336A which has a different cast iron manifold with just the 2 inlet and outlet pipes. The unitherm governor is behind the large square brass nut below the outlet pipe. Still this video shows excellent directions. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. I didn’t understand the noise before this. I learned from another repair video that the first step is to make sure all of the filters are clean. Most issues arise from decreased flow to the heater. The temp will rise inside with knocking sounds from boiling, and it will shut down. It saved me a lot of time and money.
Great video much appreciated. After research I identified this as a cause of my high limit 2 error code, along with the banging. Wondering why you did not drill out the ports as I have seen in other videos? Also why did you not check the high limit switches and temp sensors? Finally this is beyond my comfort level to work on so my question is how long / $ for a tech to fix? Thanks so much.
Yes it helped thank you
Had a tech come out 4 times. Tried another who attempted. No results. Saw this video and it did the trick! 😊 THANK YOU!!
Fantastic. It's very gratifying to know that this helped
Awesome video
Thanks for posting! My Jandy was having the same issue. A supposedly reputable pool equipment repair person came and told me I needed a new heater. 5500 installed that would have run. Luckily I found your video before making the decision to buy a new one. Though the Jandy is laid out a bit different, the components and general arrangement is the same. Followed your video, cleaned out the scale and now my heater is tip top.
your tutorial helped me a lot I thank you infinitely
that was a dope ass single leg to a back take by the bear.
Too bad it never got to sink it’s teeth into that fruitcake Mayor Pete.
Thanks for this video !
This bear must’ve lived a hell of a life
Thank you so much for posting these. I'm Russ Brinegar, the car salesman from South Bend, Indiana, who wrestled Victor in 1985. I was in the middle of my divorce and had lots of beer in me that night. I've told friends and family this story, and wondered if they even believed me. now I have proof thanks to your video, I never dreamed I would see this, thank you so very much - Russ
Russ, I can't believe that you found this video after 37 years. And no one can doubt that it's you after hearing the introduction. Thanks for letting me know that you found it
I have a master temp400 and it sounds just like yours did. Hopefully that’s my problem! Thanks for the helpful video 👍🏻
Salt destroys everything... But yet people keep wanting salt pool .. us in the north east see what salt does to our roads .. it's the same with the pool heaters...
How exactly does the bypass valve and thermostat work?
I think the thermostat (Raypak calls it a unitherm governor) stays closed to until the water in the tubes gets up to temperature, then it opens to let water circulate through the heater tubes. I'm pretty sure that's what the technical guy at Raypak told me. It's easy to test it by putting it in hot water as see if it opens
@@pg42 wasn’t really following how it opening and closing was restricting the flow to the tubes.
@@Billy18bmOnly a small amount of water goes through the tubes, the rest is bypassed. The heated water mixes with the bypassed water and then exits the heater to your pool. The thermostat controls how much heated water passes through the tubes. It’s there to compensate for different pump flow rates and water temperatures, so that the heated water exiting the tubes is always 105 degrees F. That is the ideal temperature for the water to be at to prevent damage and run at the highest efficiency. As stated earlier, this 105 degree water mixes with the bypassed water in the manifold and then exits the heater.
Very nice video!! I have a High Limit 2 Fault. Already replaced both High-limit TCOs but no luck. Would this procedure of cleaning out the scale buildup solve that issue?
I don't know enough about the faults to advise you. I can say that it's pretty easy to take the thermostat (unitherm governor) out and see what is inside.
Did anyone get a "High Limit 2 Open" message? how can that be fixed?
I'm afraid I'm no help on this one
Pardon my French--but this is a balls on video. I followed along and found the first 3 tubes were clogged like yours. Strange--the other 6 were fine. However the vacuum was woefully inadequate. #2 from the right had calcified into rock--there was no vacuuming/chipping away at this crap. Northern Illinois well water. I pushed in and twisted the screwdriver to no avail--and then I thought about my spade bits! Worked perfectly. Used my oldest drill and almost burned it up, but I now have mostly clear pipes--and no knocking. Was careful not to twist during the drilling process. Thermostat tested fine in hot water as well. Thanks so much for doing this.
That's amazing! I thought mine was pretty bad, but I didn't need to drill it out. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback
Hi there. Really appreciate you sharing this video. It’s the same problem I had with this heater. In addition to the debris I also had narrowing lumens in three of the water pipes. I used a drill to open them up a bit. Replaced the Thermal regulator as it was is nasty shape. Was able to reconnect and fire everything up. Heater started working…yay! Clearly I need to pay more attention to balancing my water.
Nice video. Big thanks. I'll try this tomorrow.
Is this a salt pool?
So, if my heater is bypassed but it still makes a shaky intermittent rumbling sound, is it the same issue, scale buildup? It’s not real loud or anything. I Also notice that the chlorinator appears to sound like there’s little pebbles in it, or the connecting pipes, making a constant knocking sound. What could this be?
I'm afraid I don't have any experience with the heater bypassed. Inspecting seems like a good idea if it's not too difficult to disassemble.
Excellent video very informative and instructional.
Great Video! Learned a lot!
Thank you so much
Thanks for posting. My buddy who is not real handy has the same issue. Almost exact same noise. I will crack it open and see if this scale is the culprit.
Thanks for the comment. Please add a post to say if it was the same issue.
You missed taking a look at the bypass valve. Judging by the very large amount of debri you had in your heater, you should have lifted that second panel inside that header and checked the bypass valve. With the corrosion you had, that shaft was probably full of grit and the valve was probably stuck. It is a simple matter to pull out that valve and clean the shaft and tunnel the closing part slides on so the valve opens and closes. One more 2 minute step to a perfect repair. I was amazed by the amount of junk in your heater and the exchanger was not leaking. Lucky. New exchanger is $600.
Ooo cool! My dad wrestled him too!!! Said he got thrown around! And my pops is STRONG! He just showed me this video! Idk why they think they can put Victor in a head lock!! Hahaha
I just tried to survive
Fast if you have hard water.
It is silicone lube not grease. The lube prevents the O-rings from turning brittle and cracking from contact with chlorine. Never use Vaseline or anything but silicone lube.
Magic Lube is the brand a lot of pool guys use for various gaskets and O-rings. FYI.
nice video lots of information! thanks!
Glad it helped
My heater was recently damaged due to the cold weather here in Texas, and I was getting ready to take this manifold off because it looks like that’s where the water is leaking from. I watch this video and it will be a big help for me when I go to take that off. I understand the effort it takes to make this and I wanted to say thanks for uploading it and making it available. Again it was a big help.
Thanks for the note
La
Just in case you know.... The new Raypak/Rheem heater header has a sacrificial anode well directly in front of one of the header nuts. I have NO idea how to access that. I need to reverse the headers. Regardless, the bypass valve may need to be accessed in the future. What tool do I need to access that nut? Moreover, how do I get the nut back on the bolt on the other side of the heater? Can barely touch the bolt with one finger. Whoever engineered this snanfu should have to work on every damn one of them! Customer wanted heated pool for the holidays, ain't gonna happen. I've been in the business for 25 years, and getting more pissed by the day on what factories are putting out. I called factory rep on this, no response. Aside from all that, Happy Holidays everyone! .
Unscrew the entire anode to move it out of the way. With a big channel lock. The anode is threaded on like a plug, and not machined on. Maybe I am missing something, but I assume that's what ya meant
I reversed my header no problem. Just use a 3" extension on a universal swivel and you can get it off and on again. Obviously, once flipping the header thread the nuts by hand first. Then use your ratchet, extension, and universal socket and your golden.
Thanks. My 406A makes a gurgling noise. I recently replaced all of the plumbing on the pad and upsized it, now my water isn't heating up as fast. I'm going to pull the governor tomorrow and take a look at it. Your video was very helpful at demonstrating the process. *PS* I noticed it looks like you have non-pressure rated drain-waste-vent elbows attached to your unions.s
My uncle wrestled this bear back in the late 60’s, he got his butt kicked. My favorite uncle!
I think we all got our buts kicked
Is yours the model 266A? Looks just like mine. Last year I had the same noise. Called tech on it. They suggested replacing the thermostat unitherm governor. Two days later, noise was gone before I could get to it. But now the inlet/outlet manifold has sprung a hissing leak at the inside welded joint. Looks like I’ll be getting in this area of heater after all. Probably a good thing anyways. I can get in there and clean things out too. It’s been in use since 2014, and has been a great heater up to this point. No complaints. Thx for the video.
Currently have the same model. 3 summers now. Getting a Hi Limit 1 fault especially when temperature is increased to 90F. Any thoughts?
They're one of the best pool heaters, but over time chlorine and scale can be Hell on the heater manifold and force a premature replacement of it (the manifold) in order to get a full or maximum life out of your heater.
your filter is not doing a very good job with keeping debris out of the heater
I believe that the debris is a build up of scale from the minerals in the water.
@@pg42 could be the sudden increase in water temperature during the heating process causing it to come out of solution, thus having mainly scale build up on the return side.