Miho Nonaka Skips Holds to Get to the Top! | Beta Break Ep.19

Ойын-сауық

Miho Nonaka skips holds to get to the top as well as finds other beta breaks to get through difficult problems. I also explain why this series is called Beta Break in this Episode!
My instagram:
/ professorok
Miho Nonaka: / @mihononaka9227
/ nonaka_miho
Business Email: albertokclimb@gmail.com
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/ professorok
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Пікірлер: 481

  • @j.thorgard
    @j.thorgard3 жыл бұрын

    never even considered "meta", this is rock climbing so Beta is obviously the right name.

  • @erraticbro

    @erraticbro

    3 жыл бұрын

    Same lol, and it alliterates nicely with B-reak

  • @ArtanisKizrath

    @ArtanisKizrath

    3 жыл бұрын

    I'm also an avid gamer and "meta" is very commonly used in the competitive scene (whichever game it was). So, the two words don't confuse me at all. I guess many new climbers don't know many of the climbing jargons and terms. In gyms pre-pandemic, I would ask to offer my help to beginners and they don't know when I say "beta", gaston, etc. I'd have to use common terms like "tips", or "push to the side with your thumbs facing down.".

  • @erraticbro

    @erraticbro

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@ArtanisKizrath Same, I always try to teach people a few new climbing terms if they don't know and are open to learning a bit more about the terminology :)

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    I think the fact that I get comments with people unsure of the definition is kind of cool because it means that nonclimbers are watching my videos and maybe it will inspire them to try out clibing in the future as well~!

  • @paulroberts9642

    @paulroberts9642

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay @Albert Ok Non-climber here. This series has been fascinating and inspiring in so many ways. That video of Mia Krampl brought tears to my eyes. You do a great job of explaining the context to non-climbers so we can understand the significance of what we're watching. Unfortunately beginners classes at my local gym are suspended due to covid restrictions, but I'll definitely be giving it a try when things get better. Keep crushing it!

  • @simpotatohi
    @simpotatohi3 жыл бұрын

    Lmao imagine watching a climbing video and being pissed at the word “beta”

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hey it happens hahah

  • @johnmorrell3187

    @johnmorrell3187

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay I appreciate how you're encouraging us in the comments to stay polite and remember that we're all into climbing. Keep it up man!

  • @morganbecker5398

    @morganbecker5398

    3 жыл бұрын

    toes

  • @brytonduropan6741

    @brytonduropan6741

    3 жыл бұрын

    i was one of the people who didn't like the term beta. my comment was on the screen. i admit my mistake :p.

  • @Siberius-

    @Siberius-

    3 жыл бұрын

    None of the comments that popped up seemed angry... certainly not "pissed". Only one said it was "annoying" (the gent above my comment lol). But it didn't come across like he was "pissed" per se. Slight exaggeration there. They either thought he made a mistake, or were curious to know why, or were explaining what beta and meta mean in their conventional usages.

  • @andrewscott5059
    @andrewscott50593 жыл бұрын

    I feel that this video is representative of a massive success on your part. You've made climbing videos that are being watched by outsiders to the sport, so far out they don't know any of the terms. I'd take that as a big win, and congratulations on introducing more of the internet to climbing!

  • @Tricia_K

    @Tricia_K

    3 жыл бұрын

    THIS! I've never climbed in my life, yet this series has fascinated me entirely! Before stumbling across this channel, I never actually saw climbing as a genuine, competitive sport - and wow, how wrong was I!?

  • @MrsElectrobeat
    @MrsElectrobeat3 жыл бұрын

    finally Miho. she is SO strong and she's one of my favorite (comp) climbers!!!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    She's so strong, but SO smooth

  • @Orynae
    @Orynae3 жыл бұрын

    "Meta" is also more like a consensus reached by a bunch of players on what is generally best, whereas "beta" can refer to a single person's idea of how to do a thing. Like I could talk about "my beta" and "your beta", but there's no "my meta"/"your meta", it's just "the meta" (which can evolve as the game is updated or as people discover new ways to use things, and can evolve differently by region or server). Likewise, there's no "the beta" (except used colloquially as a shortcut), it's really "the intended beta" or "the usual beta".

  • @Mmmm1ch43l

    @Mmmm1ch43l

    3 жыл бұрын

    so then "meta break" would be more accurate to what is happening here than "beta break", right? since the climbers are not doing what others have agreed upon is best, instead what they themselves think is best so they're following their own beta while breaking the meta

  • @Orynae

    @Orynae

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@Mmmm1ch43l you might be onto something! I guess in this series "beta break" is meant as "breaking the intended beta". But your explanation makes sense too

  • @itszaque5031

    @itszaque5031

    3 жыл бұрын

    I think they honestly refer to such different topics that they don't really overlap. Meta applies to games, beta applies to climbing. That being said I like your explanation. But anyone talking about meta in climbing just hasn't had the climbing culture/lingo explained to them.

  • @savyhendrixvideo

    @savyhendrixvideo

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@Mmmm1ch43l but you are talking about gaming and this is about climbing. Meta is not a term in climbing as far as I know, beta is the word you are looking for. Idk why people are conflating the 2, video gaming and climbing are very different activities haha

  • @anvitkelkar3270

    @anvitkelkar3270

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@Mmmm1ch43l metas are concluded upon after a lot of trial and error and is somewhat absolute. Beta is more of a strategy working around a specific situation. This might be a horrible example but think of sudoku, there is no "meta" where one square is always the easiest to figure out/fill, but there is a "beta" that helps you figure out th easiest one through common principle. So on boulders/climbs "an intended beta" would refer to the most conventional one but not the absolute one like meta.

  • @anvitkelkar3270
    @anvitkelkar32703 жыл бұрын

    I'm surprised people who didn't know what "beta" meant even watched this series. Climbing is getting more mainstream yall

  • @simonm9876

    @simonm9876

    3 жыл бұрын

    Not knowing is one thing but being so pretentious to try and correct him really made me cringe

  • @anvitkelkar3270

    @anvitkelkar3270

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@simonm9876 True but I can't really stay mad because at least climbing is getting recognised and I'm happy with that

  • @nicolaimonjonski2046

    @nicolaimonjonski2046

    3 жыл бұрын

    I climb 2 times a week (V2) but i still dont know what it means

  • @david.zhouhq

    @david.zhouhq

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@simonm9876 so true

  • @anvitkelkar3270

    @anvitkelkar3270

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@nicolaimonjonski2046 Well from the looks of it, you still enjoy climbing, so you were going to find out eventually.

  • @gidneybeans
    @gidneybeans3 жыл бұрын

    I had no idea what 'beta' was until I read up on it after seeing one of your episodes. This mini series is really entertaining and informative! Keep crushing it Albert!!!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Heck yeah thanks for watching !

  • @gruisman

    @gruisman

    2 жыл бұрын

    thats what the internet is for but most people just to lazy to search something up themselves :S

  • @motherlove8366
    @motherlove83663 жыл бұрын

    Honestly, the main thing I usually notice about Miho is that she’s insanely strong, holy shit, I’ve seen her slip and not fall by holding herself with no more than 2 fingers on a hold I can’t hold with two hands.

  • @lucasamud4914
    @lucasamud49143 жыл бұрын

    Let’s see Megos!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Heck yes!

  • @alexlin8328
    @alexlin83283 жыл бұрын

    miho's a badass and my fav comp climber... if it werent limited to 2x per country japan and slovenia would easily dominate the olympics

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    For sure, they have an army of talented climbers!

  • @Tondadrd

    @Tondadrd

    3 жыл бұрын

    But then there are Alex Megos and Adam Ondra. Quantity doesn't beat the quality! And no matter the competition Jakob Schubert is taking a medal! It is folklore of these climbing contests. Note: I'm not saying Japanese climbers aren't awesome, I'm a fan of Tomoa Narasaki. :)

  • @corkforktork
    @corkforktork3 жыл бұрын

    FINALLY A NEW EPISODE WE'VE BEEN WAITING FOR THIS !!!!!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    I HAVE RETURNED

  • @framma
    @framma3 жыл бұрын

    Last channel I was expecting to see league of legends footage on lol

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Gotta keep things diverse!

  • @darkexcalibur87

    @darkexcalibur87

    3 жыл бұрын

    Lol yeah when the video started I had my volume off and I was confused. I thought I had clicked on the wrong thing.

  • @tp700
    @tp7003 жыл бұрын

    You present these like a proper documentary and I love it

  • @LeGrosLass
    @LeGrosLass3 жыл бұрын

    Amazing, as always, thanks so much Albert!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thank you!

  • @bobboboogaloo
    @bobboboogaloo2 жыл бұрын

    This is the best climbing video I have ever seen you are a champ. You do a great job of hitting the high-level and deep-level information while also making it all entertaining. Plus you made Nonaka look even more amazing, which I didn't think was possible.

  • @quaxxaa
    @quaxxaa3 жыл бұрын

    Hey man! I’m excited to see you uploading again, this is my favorite KZread series after all :). I love the hard work thoughtfulness you put into your content, keep up the great work!

  • @danielkeis8388
    @danielkeis83883 жыл бұрын

    Right when we needed him most!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    I HAVE RETURNED!

  • @jamis00
    @jamis003 жыл бұрын

    Love figuring out words' etymologies. Thanks for this! Also, let's see another of Rubtsov!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Rubtsov is amazing! Thanks for tuning in!

  • @MiguelClimbs
    @MiguelClimbs3 жыл бұрын

    Good vid dude! Love how you left the Japanese commentating on for us to listen. The work that you put into these vids really shows.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Miguel! One day if I come through LV we'll have to session some time!

  • @VISUALefference
    @VISUALefference3 жыл бұрын

    Excellent video incorporating education, story telling and highlighting an athlete. You made it seemless!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks so much Harold!

  • @bobboboogaloo

    @bobboboogaloo

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay I already commented/complimented above but this person hit the nail on the head

  • @legendinop
    @legendinop3 жыл бұрын

    It's been awesome watching Miho and Akiyo compete side by side as their styles are on the opposite sides of the spectrum. Almost like old school vs new school. Can't wait to see how the next generation of climbers will break the beta again!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Futaba Ito is one of the upcoming younger climbers from Japan, keep and eye on her!

  • @willbetzner1441
    @willbetzner14413 жыл бұрын

    Albert your videos are straight fire, keep em coming

  • @rayner8330
    @rayner83303 жыл бұрын

    Yooooo Albert pulls up with a banger

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    :)

  • @diyanataib8789
    @diyanataib87893 жыл бұрын

    I'm so in love with Miho she's such an amazing climber. Thanks for this video!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    She's so smooth and awesome!

  • @Alexhenn1804
    @Alexhenn18043 жыл бұрын

    While old enough to remember having all my favourite cartoons recorded on Betamax tapes, the explanation is actually cool in its own right. Not withstanding am also one of those who wondered why it was Beta and not Meta, as in gaming. Excellent series...

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Betamax tapes are really cool! My parents own a few...Thanks for tuning in!

  • @Deathranger999
    @Deathranger9993 жыл бұрын

    I have to say, the ending to your videos when the beat drops is probably the most satisfying video ending of any content creator I watch. As for favorite climbers, I'm kinda basic but I'm a big Ondra fan. Also really like Shauna and Janja.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Ayyyy thanks, I also am an Ondra fan. Absolutely versatile climber.

  • @Deathranger999

    @Deathranger999

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay Right? I'm always amazed by what he can do. Really hoping he sees success on Perfecto Mundo!

  • @jonowoodgo
    @jonowoodgo3 жыл бұрын

    Miho is a amazing boulderer, she's strong and flexible with beta breaks that are insane sometimes. Also that smile and laugh of her's makes you like her and want the best for her in her career. Love your work always bro🙏🧗❤️

  • @turtle4237
    @turtle42373 жыл бұрын

    you know, I found this channel like, 2 days ago, and have since binged (I think) every episode of beta break. I've never even considered doing any sort of rock climbing in my life due to my fear of heights, but I honestly want to try bouldering after seeing this! Who knows if I actually will or not, but rock climbing is 100% on my watch list of Olympic sports when the games happen in 2021! Thanks for the great videos!

  • @christophelefrancois9875
    @christophelefrancois98753 жыл бұрын

    love the vids like always, keep crushing it big boy

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    :)

  • @rhysgriffiths9675
    @rhysgriffiths96753 жыл бұрын

    I love your Beta Break series! Can't wait to see more :)

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks so much! !

  • @Sigrt
    @Sigrt3 жыл бұрын

    Akiyo and Miho are by far my two favourite climbers. Love their style as well as personality.

  • @alexchencreates
    @alexchencreates3 жыл бұрын

    Surprised there hasn't been a Beta Break on Tomoa Narasaki! I know he's mentioned in a lot of videos but I can't get enough of him also, nice century challenge footage :)

  • @artosvanstel

    @artosvanstel

    3 жыл бұрын

    We had the speed climbing beta break, which is the tomoa skip. But yeah would love to see a bouldering episode as well

  • @brimroth5238

    @brimroth5238

    3 жыл бұрын

    He promised an episode on Tomoa in the speed video about the "Tomoa skip". Notice that he's been covering the athletes so that odd episodes are women and evens are men, he'll be in an episode soon enough.

  • @MsLakerfan91

    @MsLakerfan91

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@artosvanstel Also had lots of stuff about Tomoa in the Meichi episode.

  • @oldi6btm6t9d4

    @oldi6btm6t9d4

    3 жыл бұрын

    It's because Tomoa doesn't use beta. He just dynos from the start hold to the top. ; )

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    It'll come when the time comes! Century challenge was hard!

  • @akauppi2
    @akauppi23 жыл бұрын

    I’m missing the Tokyo olympics, now that I know climbing would have been included! Your videos are a wonderful peek hole to this world of climbing.

  • @bennettzug

    @bennettzug

    3 жыл бұрын

    still happening in less than 3 months now!! (fingers crossed)

  • @gandatier4168
    @gandatier41683 жыл бұрын

    Too few subscribers for the quality of content of this channel! You deserve more subs!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Any subs is a lot of subs to me!

  • @NikkiBug22
    @NikkiBug223 жыл бұрын

    Loved the footage of the century challenge at the silver street momentum! It was a tough one but a blast to accomplish.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    It was! Me and my friend tried to go for the record...let's just say that didn't happen haha

  • @McPvPNinjas
    @McPvPNinjas3 жыл бұрын

    It would be super cool to see videos from you breaking down the style's of climbers! Like Kyra Condie's style being fast, powerful, or how an analysis of Nathaniel Coleman's style. Love the videos :)

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    I have made a video about Coleman, but I definitely could look into Kyra's since I have climbed with her multiple times and really got to see her power in person!

  • @kaspers2806
    @kaspers28063 жыл бұрын

    Quality video as usual. Nice

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks Kasper!

  • @olivierhuet9860
    @olivierhuet98603 жыл бұрын

    Interesting bit of history on the use of the word beta and great video as usual.

  • @david.zhouhq
    @david.zhouhq3 жыл бұрын

    You know what? I got a notification of Albert Ok new video coming, so I clicked it. But I just saw LOL, as a LOL player I ofc always watched these kinda videos, so I first consider I clicked wrong notifcation until I heard Albert's voice. Nice one !!!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hahaha gotta keep the viewers on their toes!

  • @AltamodaAqus
    @AltamodaAqus3 жыл бұрын

    Ha watching this following a league video made me question if I somehow misclicked! Beta break for this series is by far the most fitting name! Awesome video as always.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Gotta keep viewers on their toes! Thanks for the comment!

  • @ahbzjr
    @ahbzjr3 жыл бұрын

    Gosh Albert these vids are so poggers

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    :)

  • @niceforsaken2
    @niceforsaken23 жыл бұрын

    Love how your audio has gotten better.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Dang thanks for noticing!

  • @KeepAmericaChristian
    @KeepAmericaChristian3 жыл бұрын

    Yes beta break is back!!!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    I'M BACK!

  • @patrickhoffmann5004
    @patrickhoffmann50043 жыл бұрын

    Bro, you are awesome. You seem very passionate about what you are doing! Keep it Up! :) Greetings from Germany

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hallo! Thank you so much for the kind words. I will!

  • @autumneagle
    @autumneagle3 жыл бұрын

    Every time I watch a professional climber top a hard problem and then let out this huge victorious smile it's like the best thing ever.

  • @teddychataigner5779
    @teddychataigner57793 жыл бұрын

    From french perspective, the beta/meta argue is strange as it's easier cause we don't use the beta word between climber but more the "methods" word, wich is actually transparent to translate, while for video game the word meta is now use casually in french like a lot of pop culture english term. Thanks for the alwais excellent beta break show

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for giving a cool cultural insight on the words!

  • @UnagiMonk
    @UnagiMonk3 жыл бұрын

    She's an absolute beast climber. One of the best

  • @travisbroneske3711
    @travisbroneske37113 жыл бұрын

    Great video and explanation! Favorite climber: Alex Puccio

  • @Iminotterable
    @Iminotterable3 жыл бұрын

    I scrolled past a Synapse video and thought I was misclicking it for like 15 seconds until I realized Beta Break was using League footage. Props on finding a Tyler1 clip of him saying beta that probably wasn’t easy.

  • @anderszimmerman2428
    @anderszimmerman24283 жыл бұрын

    that was one of the coolest sequences I've ever seen

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Absolutely wicked!

  • @dtxog888
    @dtxog8883 жыл бұрын

    Yoooo you were at momentum in Houston!? That’s awesome 😂 we touched the same holds 🤣

  • @jaysonmoore5166
    @jaysonmoore51663 жыл бұрын

    META can be explained as an acronym for, Most Efficient Tactics Available. Loving your channel, by the way! I have been itching to get into climbing for a while now, but with the lock downs and a lack of experience it's been tough to get started. Your content has really been inspiring and educating, and I cannot wait to get on some walls (hopefully sooner rather than later) and put your teachings into action. I love the idea of getting some coaching too. I may look into that after I have been at it for a little while.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Once it's safe for you to try out climbing you definitely should give it a go! Good luck and stay safe!

  • @jaysonmoore5166

    @jaysonmoore5166

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay definitely planning on it! Hopefully I'll be moving somewhere near a gym soon.

  • @j.cheung7274
    @j.cheung72743 жыл бұрын

    ♡ miho

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Sooo good

  • @skage9645
    @skage96453 жыл бұрын

    You are my favourite climber Alberto Ok :)

  • @tamarlambert6121
    @tamarlambert61213 жыл бұрын

    OH SNAP, YOU CLIMB AT MOMENTUM ON SILVER STREET??? DUDE, THAT'S MY OLD GYM!!!!!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Sure do!

  • @Vibingroovy
    @Vibingroovy3 жыл бұрын

    I liked that time-lapse of the challenge at Momentum.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks! That was brutal but I finished it!

  • @Vibingroovy

    @Vibingroovy

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay I made the mistake of starting with my upper end of V5s and V4s and ended up getting a gnarly pump which made the rest of it rough. Rnded at like 68.

  • @classic_sours
    @classic_sours3 жыл бұрын

    Wow the Momentum Silverstreet footage threw me off there, I climb there all the time!

  • @pangajackterhor
    @pangajackterhor3 жыл бұрын

    Great Video! My 2 favorite male climbers must be Magnus Midtbø and Alex Hannold, female climbers you have covered them :)

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    I'll definitely talk about magnus in the ftuure!

  • @StebanCow
    @StebanCow3 жыл бұрын

    Momentum @ silver street!!

  • @thiagowaldhelm
    @thiagowaldhelm3 жыл бұрын

    I think.... I think I just fell in love with a climber (again). And as to my favorite climber, that's tricky. In part because many of them I discovered here in you channel! Before finding this marvellous series, it'd be hard not to say Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell or Adam Ondra. But that's too mainstream =P I'm going to throw some Brazilian climbers here since I'm Brazilian: Felipe Camargo and Thais Makino.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hahaha, she is a great climber! There are great Brazilian climbers, I was going to try and talk to Felipe Ho in the future!

  • @thiagowaldhelm

    @thiagowaldhelm

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay nice! If you need any help reaching him, please let me know, I'd be more than glad to help =) Cheers!

  • @trueblueedits4673
    @trueblueedits4673 Жыл бұрын

    Miho's ability at dynos and upper body strength, in general, is insane. That hold skipping didn't even cross my mind (albeit I'm pretty new at climbing). That sloper looked SMOOOOOTH lol

  • @mariehuber7994
    @mariehuber79943 жыл бұрын

    your videos areone of my favorite things to watch on yt. thank you. some beta break ideas: Lucka Rakovec, Luce Douady, Nina Arthaud, Sienna Kopf, Thea Wulff, Fanny gilbert, Brooke Raboutou Alexander megos and Jessica Pilz :-D

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Great list! I have climbed with many of those athletes you mentioned too so I hopefully have a good insight!

  • @Imbored7592
    @Imbored75923 жыл бұрын

    Hey! That's my climbing gym here in Houston on silver street :D, honestly though its a great gym, one of the biggest in the U.S. i believe

  • @toni_Menorca
    @toni_Menorca3 жыл бұрын

    One beta break episode every month is not enough, we need mooore 😉 I hope you are fine Albert

  • @QuinnValetine
    @QuinnValetine3 жыл бұрын

    Yo is the momentum climbing silver street in the first vid lmao, great gym

  • @QuinnValetine

    @QuinnValetine

    3 жыл бұрын

    Wait you were there recently, the red v7 at 1:48 still up, pogs

  • @romanromi9624
    @romanromi96243 жыл бұрын

    Betamax a precursor to VHS, that’s some disrespect right there. XD

  • @leahwilton785
    @leahwilton7853 жыл бұрын

    Everyone's making fun of ppl for not knowing but honestly I appreciate this episode! I dont climb/follow climbing. I just love the creative problem solving demonstrated in this series.

  • @oldi6btm6t9d4
    @oldi6btm6t9d43 жыл бұрын

    Great!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks!

  • @MsLakerfan91
    @MsLakerfan913 жыл бұрын

    I'd love to hear your thoughts on what allowed Viktoria Meshkova to totally dominate the European Continental Championships.

  • @ArtanisKizrath

    @ArtanisKizrath

    3 жыл бұрын

    She's good in her own rights but the best climbers (most of them) and teams didn't participate.

  • @ItsBritneyBitch1

    @ItsBritneyBitch1

    3 жыл бұрын

    First of all most of the greatest climbers like Janja who dominates in the worldcups not just eu, wasn't there to compete because of Covid19. Then second I think it was the fact that she was competing in her home country that gave her that extra spark to push much harder and she really did an amazing job!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    She's really talented, there's a few things that helped her. Sleeping in your own bed - having access to your own warm up facility, having fans from your country, adjustment to food, psychological benefits from being on home soil, other climbers being under pressure, and many climbers not attending were all great reasons why she did well. She definitely is at the level to give the performance she did, she's made many semi finals in the past, and hey she just had an insane competition and did really well!

  • @hunterhart3096
    @hunterhart30963 жыл бұрын

    Hey man I recognize that gym, I boulder at momentum Silver Street too. I’m away from Houston until January but otherwise I’m there quite frequently, so maybe I’ll see you around. You should join the Facebook group for Momentum Katy. Love the content, keep it up!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Love the Momentum gyms! I come and go around those gyms so say hi if you see me!

  • @SuperPoonSlayer
    @SuperPoonSlayer3 жыл бұрын

    lol META? this ain't e-sports people it's climbing

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hahahaha it happens

  • @rixdalerheptads1505

    @rixdalerheptads1505

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay Yea the actual gaming term we should have adopted is "cheese" instead of "beta break"

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@rixdalerheptads1505 I play games I know!

  • @Steven-ro6os

    @Steven-ro6os

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@rixdalerheptads1505 No... cheese is a strategy that has no/little counterplay. For example, waiting in the krugs bush or tribrush when you think the enemy is leashing. Meta is the "most effective tactic available". Breaking the meta and breaking the beta are much more similar than the latter and cheese.

  • @rixdalerheptads1505

    @rixdalerheptads1505

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@Steven-ro6os I think cheese might refer to different things then because I literally have no idea what you are talking about :D I am assuming you are talking about something League related. What I am talking about is something that I think originated in Single Player games like Super Mario Maker. "Cheese is a design oversight in a level that allows the player to skip part of it or make it easier."

  • @lammy12ninja
    @lammy12ninja3 жыл бұрын

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thank you life :)

  • @dawsonburke5015
    @dawsonburke50153 жыл бұрын

    Listened to your thundercling podcast, good job on all the progress, sounds like you got really good at climbing really fast. I’d be interested to hear about your process or any specific training you do aside from being obsessed with climbing. Have you thought about doing training tip videos, tutorials or anything like that? Was there anything in particular that led to a lot of progress?

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for listening to the podcast! Loved being on there. I definitely planned on making instructional content, but many gyms are closed and I didn't want to promote going to gyms and practicing, however once things are safer I'll definitely be making content explaining my current training process and detail how I progressed! My main thing that helped though was actually being really really weak when I first started climbing, it forced me to learn how to move and improve my technique first rather than gaining strength.

  • @Sinfaroth

    @Sinfaroth

    3 жыл бұрын

    @@AlbertOkay honestly, I can relate to that so well! sometimes I go with quite strong friends who don't climb and they can do rather hard routes but you can really see their fight. I am currently training my strength at home since the gyms are closed but being weak and not able to force myself up the wall is a good teacher for technique.

  • @vojta98
    @vojta983 жыл бұрын

    It would be geat if you would make a series about the athletes going to olympics, describing their journey. I would love to know more about them before the event.:)

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    I was planning on it! Not ask the athletes are chosen so I'm holding off!

  • @Tondadrd
    @Tondadrd3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks to your vids I like Tomoa Narasaki. Apart from that, I am a fanboy of Alex Megos!

  • @owencraig7749
    @owencraig77493 жыл бұрын

    The actual meaning of meta is something that is self referential in nature, like meta-data which is data about a set of data. I think gaming picked it up back in the original table top days when some players would 'meta-game', which was thinking about the game as a set of rules and finding the best solution rather than just role playing. Since to me coming up with a beta is just something that naturally happens as a part of climbing, its not really 'meta'. You can start with a bad beta, then keep practising and make a better way. In competitions I guess betas are pretty optimal in general so 'breaking the beta' is a thing, but meta and beta come from different ideas in my mind. In a way, meta is following the rules in the best way possible and beta is making up your own set of rules that fit to the problem

  • @okobobaoko445
    @okobobaoko4453 жыл бұрын

    it will be soo nice to see vidio about magnus mitbo

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    It will happen!

  • @widksshdklsc
    @widksshdklsc2 жыл бұрын

    3:05 They should do a boulder anime lol

  • @phin422
    @phin4223 жыл бұрын

    That orange volume/hold was cool...

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    It's a sick feature!

  • @Silver-Bark
    @Silver-Bark3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for explanation!) I really tried to find the definition of "beta break" and ofcourse there were nothing as I searched in English-Russian dictionary))

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Thanks for tuning in! I'm glad I was able to help :)

  • @HenrikMyrhaug
    @HenrikMyrhaug3 жыл бұрын

    Meta is often used as an acronym for "Most effective tactics available" meaning the tactics use that results in the most success.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Funny I actually had that in the initial draft of this video, but I took it out last minute since I felt like I was being redundant. But yes! It does mean that as well!

  • @naveahqueen9433
    @naveahqueen94332 жыл бұрын

    I’m literally so whipped for her oml

  • @AlleyWolf123

    @AlleyWolf123

    2 жыл бұрын

    Same. Like she is so amazing

  • @andulasis6283
    @andulasis62833 жыл бұрын

    incredible!!! 2:50

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    YES!

  • @Piratejackyar
    @Piratejackyar2 жыл бұрын

    A lot of people here seem to think that meta means just one thing, but are focusing on a narrow use of a narrow use of the word. It means about, but outside. So directions to the mountain, what gear to bring and what might be good ways to climb would actually be the meta information for a climb. Linguistically, it would work as a replacement word. However, jargon terms that come from hyper-specific historical references are cool and help make communities unique and vibrant and serve as a way of initiating people into a culture and history. So keep it up!

  • @ExecutionSommaire
    @ExecutionSommaire2 жыл бұрын

    I love Miho

  • @poorboychevelle
    @poorboychevelle3 жыл бұрын

    Can we get a Beta-Break video on the famous Dmitri "The Mono" WC solution? Itd be a good example of the break alluded to in the middle of this vid. Might be a fun time to throw in the Coleman - Vail footage where he ended up monoing a jib like a monster

  • @GourmetNinj4
    @GourmetNinj42 жыл бұрын

    I was so confused to see League at the start. That Singed pick was fully meta btw

  • @Honey_Daddy
    @Honey_Daddy3 жыл бұрын

    I follow climbing, so beta break makes perfect sense. My brother follows "e-sports", so he might know what breaking the meta means in that context, but i have never heard of it. Im aware of meta data, but that's about it.

  • @matthewblackwell5274
    @matthewblackwell52743 жыл бұрын

    same i was going to say that

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    same

  • @LympyDownunder
    @LympyDownunder3 жыл бұрын

    Fav climber = Futuba Ito!!

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    She is SOOO awesome

  • @RemyBustani
    @RemyBustani3 жыл бұрын

    Other comments already said this but meta refers to the high level ways to play a game, usually playing around the intended design, abusing mechanics, and even using mind games to fake other players out. When compared to a school test for example, the beta would be the answer sheet while the meta is the method by which students distract the teacher to gain access to the answer sheet.

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Yep!

  • @StickManJam1
    @StickManJam13 жыл бұрын

    The amount of League stuff in this video made it even better lmaooo, great vid albert

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Hahah gotta mix it up!

  • @brytonduropan6741
    @brytonduropan67413 жыл бұрын

    0:41 holy shit thats me. LOL. i admit my mistake :D.

  • @spudsrus
    @spudsrus3 жыл бұрын

    would love to see Janja feature in a video

  • @ElenaAideen
    @ElenaAideen3 жыл бұрын

    The term meta as used in reference to gaming is an acronym for Most Effective Tactic Available. Which to be fair could be accurately applied to how we as climbers use the term beta. But our evolution of the slang is waaaaayyyyyy cooler. ;)

  • @supercheetah778
    @supercheetah778 Жыл бұрын

    She's my favorite climber, even more than Janja, just because she's so good at finding creative solutions like this.

  • @bertpeeters9188
    @bertpeeters91883 жыл бұрын

    Did someone see Pulman at the eu competition in moscow were he did a knee bar on his knee

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Of course! I was watching it live and was going wild!

  • @stuck_in_a_fishbowlagain652
    @stuck_in_a_fishbowlagain6523 жыл бұрын

    I do a happy wiggle when I see a new video lol

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    :)

  • @NickRoman
    @NickRoman3 жыл бұрын

    And that's actually the correct way to say Adidas. Still sounds funny.

  • @lior_shiboli
    @lior_shiboli3 жыл бұрын

    Watching your videos and loving each and everyone Wanted to know if you have a favorite moment from the eroupean championship because it had some of my favorite climbers from my home country (shemla and nimrod marcus) and also other great climbers like molly

  • @AlbertOkay

    @AlbertOkay

    3 жыл бұрын

    Shemla SPEED running the lead combined was an absolute amazing moment. Heart break for Sacha, but amazing athletic performance to watch!

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