Shauna Coxsey's Toe Hook Skills! | Beta Break Ep.15
Комедия
Shauna Coxsey has incredible toe hooking ability. By using her skillset and creative thinking she has won several World Cups and international events. As one of the best bouldering athletes to come from UK she goes into the Olympics using her skills. Watch her toe hooking ability come to play as she qualifies for the finals of the 2017 Adidas Rock Stars Competition!!
Shauna Coxsey: / shaunacoxsey
Пікірлер: 239
Best bouldering series on KZread, no question.
I LOVE seeing static moves in climbing. Being a tall climber I don't like to rely on dynamic moves, and it is soooo SATISFYING witnessing climbers that can pull off a hard move, yet linger there for a moment in moving to the next hold. In my opinion, that's a real display of prowess.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
It's almost like levitating or floating - such an incredible sight to see when it happens!
I keep thinking one day youll just run out of people that have broken boulders, but then you upload again
@marcopolo9157
3 жыл бұрын
Well there will always be more people breaking boulders as long as people keep bouldering.
@DanZeevi
3 жыл бұрын
@@marcopolo9157 Marco!
@benjamintzy14
3 жыл бұрын
@@DanZeevi POLO
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
There are so many more to come!
I swear your intros are getting more far fetched every time, humans drink water and so do rock climbers and this is how Adam ondra used his knee bars skills.
@lucasboisneau4256
3 жыл бұрын
Lmao
@andulasis6283
3 жыл бұрын
For real xD i always think how the fuck does he come up with that haha
@kartingbeast93
3 жыл бұрын
Hey Vsauce, Albert Ok here...
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Yee haw
@D1sc0rd-
2 жыл бұрын
I mean the thumbnail does look pretty gravity defying!
I’m so excited for this beta break. I remember seeing shauna’s toe hooks and thinking how insane they are
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
She's so good at them!
1:25 i love all of your 'personal' demonstrations
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
I DO IT FOR KZread!
“If I had a microphone right now, I’d drop it”, he said, into the microphone.
@bovice1766
3 жыл бұрын
@Top Lobster So.. a microphone?
Can't believe you actually tried to toe hook the iron gym pull up bar haha. That must've hurt!
@kylenakamura4353
3 жыл бұрын
It's super painful without shoes but falling isn't so bad as long as there's carpet under you!
@PoisonNuke
3 жыл бұрын
Why not? I do this all the time for training purposes. Its the best and only way to really train your toe-hooks. Its like an inverted dead-hang.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
WAS WORTH IT FOR THE VIDEO!!!
@PoisonNuke
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay you should get some suspension straps, it helps for getting savely down and up in the first place. Then you can do like a 60sec toe-hook-deadhang every time you go trough the door until you can do it without straps at all.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
@@PoisonNuke Nah I'm fine I can hold a bat hang for well over a minute as I've done it outdoors. I only fell for the demonstration on the video.
Finally Shauna... i love that girl. Her climbing is phenomenal
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
She is so good!
Another great vid man! I always get so hyped at the beta break intro. You've developed a really nice flow to everything in your editing! 👍🙌
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Sam!
Thank you for this channel... really. Your videos are truly meaningful. They are inspirational, educational, entertaining, they demystify and show real human beings, great climbers, and their thinking process. Keep on the good work!
Please keep making this series, it's SO good!
Another killer Beta Break episode. Keep Crushing Albert!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Ayyy thanks riccoB!
The physics behind it is awesome. I would never have thought about the tension release causing an opposite reaction, but Shauna (and you) did. Very interesting.
I love the consistent quality in your videos
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Kevin!
These videos are incredible quality. When I first watched and swiped up I expected to see a million or so subscribers. Keep it up
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Hahaha if I get there I get there, but otherwise I just love making the videos! Thanks for watching!
The climbing hangar liverpool is my home wall! Love Shauna, her dad coaches my climbing squad sometimes too :)
man, these beta break videoes are super interesting and inspiring. makes me want to keep improving as well.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
I'm sure you will! You have the right mindset and I'm sure you're plenty strong! Go crush it!
Dude, love your vids. Keep it up!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Omer!
Great channel man, glad I found you
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for finding the channel abe ott!
Awesome athlete! Looking forward to see where she goes!
Another great addition to the growing beta break library! Keep crushing it!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much Atrau! More to come in the future!
Thanks for these videos! They are great content for the kids that I coach who can't go climbing right now because all the gyms are closed.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
This is so awesome! I used to be a youth coach for 2 years and I try and imagine how I would teach them sometimes when I make these videos!
got to love shauna, she just seems to enjoy being on the big stage and always seems to have fun, even when things are not going her way, and her body awareness is awesome,
Awesome episode as always :D
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Adrien!
Your videos are class! New subscriber
keep crushing Shauna! Thanks Albert!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the comment federico! I'm sure she will!
this channel is amazing
I've been following you for a while now, and i really think you should make a video about Stasa Gejo! Keep up the good work 🧗🏻♀️🤗
Great video as usual!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jackson!
Love this series bro
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Gianmarco!
This series is so good
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Patrick!
Another epic Beta Break to reinforce skills. 🤘It actually feels great when you can conserve energy with positive tension. Practice by failing, but with a pad. 😂 That bat hang back flop had to hurt?
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
It hurt just a little...hahaha but it was worth it for the video!
Great. Cant wait to next coming video..!!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Heck yes! Thanks so much for the comment Jun!
great vid & awesome blocs! 💪
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Marco!
Great video! Thanks.
These videos are so good.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thank you C C!!!!!
Another Nice vid ! You must have already seen it but, During the final in briancon last week there were quite a bêta break from Rogora, don’t know of you can really dig that but any hint for this serie to go on is Gold ! Keep crushin !
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Felix! I watched it live! She really is a special climber!
Yes! Another Beta Break!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
It's here!!!
Hey man love ur videos, also I think I go to your old high school seven lakes, we even have a climbing club there now.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
I did used to go there! Sick to hear they have a climbing club there!
Best thumbnail hands down...
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Haha
crazy good series
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jacob!
Albert please bring back beta break!!!
This isnt an example of newtons 3rd law. That is when you push on something and it moves and you also push back. This is an example of newton's theory of gravity. However, this isn't one of the "3 laws". Love the video and the series though!
Yoooo when you say I clicked on this video the MOMENT my brain registered that it was a beta break video!!!!!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
AYYYYYYYYYYYYY thanks man!
great stuff!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Liam!
That's pretty rad my dude.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Ayy
Nice!
Another fun video. What is the song at the end? I need more of that in my life.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
It's in the end credits - forgot the name off the top of my head though haha
Shauna is SUPER! :D
"If I had a microphone right now I'd drop it" He says into the microphone lol
It's often the small things - you might struggle with a problem, and many times will you fail to see a way to achieve that next hold.. but then you just change something small and all of a sudden it's like you never had a problem to begin with - that, or you didn't see the humungous volume right in front of you lol.
Home Girl is from the High Peak, like me! No wonder we're both drawn to climbing... except she's a world champ and I'm just some pleb.
I see some Joe's Valley 😀. Great video
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Love it there! Can't wait to go back and finish up some projects!
I'm positive she broke some laws pf physics. and I love the intros =)
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
100% She's a magician!
4:12 dang, the old days of tkor Grant, rip man, love the little clip tho lol
Yo those intro boulders are in Joes Valley in Utah! What a great bouldering location!
@AlbertOkay
2 жыл бұрын
Joe's is great!
I miss climbing so much :'''''(
Nice thumbnail shot
PSA: don't attempt to toe hook your pull-up bar like that. It's only meant to pulled on from one side (the side with the handles). If you are pulling down from the side resting on the door jam it's apt to fall off. Just fell on my back last week attempting something similar.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
My pull up bar has been plenty stable to do ab exercises inverted - but I fell on the toe hook on purpose for the video haha
Small point on heel hooks: use the glutes!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
It uses many muscles and glutes would be included for sure!
Hey youll probably never see this but I saw you're in the Dallas area, do you climbed at summit at all?
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Used to coach at summit grapevine! Moved to Colorado now though
this was 2019 adidas rockstars
Albert coming on strong with the thumbnail
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
She posted the photo herself so I don't think it's anything crazy! instagram.com/p/B2ZU42whDay/?igshid=1ctn70kh839cz
@firstname405
3 жыл бұрын
No need to sexualise a woman playing sport
Wow you uploaded at the exact same time as geek climber😂
@landonsaunders9730
3 жыл бұрын
Love the vids btw
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
SYNERGY!!!
Aw I love Liam Lonsdale's commentary
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
He's a great commentator!
🐱👤Shauna is a great climber!
3:39 is the moment you understand all of the potential
@calm.aware.
3 жыл бұрын
You are the real MVP
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
NO BAD
@DydraLIVE
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay Is this "NOT BAD" or, am I bad? (T_T)
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
@@DydraLIVE Hahaha who knows
Uhhh. Fuck. What do I. Comment first Hyped for the video as always!
@gekquad116
3 жыл бұрын
Fuck. I fucked it.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
LMAO
@gekquad116
3 жыл бұрын
Albert Ok as an update, great video. Shauna is a legend and so stoked to see you cover her. Been loving all the content lately, you’ve got me watching every video. Hopefully some day soon you get enough clout to go to Utah and hang out with all the crushers training at the USA climbing gym. Hopefully SBC could get you in 😂
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
I've been there and trained a bit with them already! I'll see if I can make a video about it there in the future!
Could someone explain to me how slipping of a hold is a good example of Newton's third law of motion? Of course it's always at play, but I can't see how we specifically experience it when slipping off a hold.
That video of Louis Parkinson climbing with only the two aretes was ridiculous
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
He's a mad lad!
Can you collab with Anton Fomenko? He makes ninja videos, and tries many other sports! I'd love to see you bring some climbing there or try out some ninja skills! 🧗♂️
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
I would love to! I'll hit him up and see what he's up to!
how are you so good at saying "keep Crashing it!"?
Joes valley the angler one of the most beautiful boulders in Utah
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Such a beautiful line! Best v2 I've ever done for sure
Joes!!!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Joe's valley best valley!
“Shin muscles”
She's one of the best for sure! Honest question though regarding that boulder from the Adidas Rockstars. She was able to release the toe-hook opting for a slightly different beta than the other climbers. However, was she able to do that because she is better at toe-hooks, or because her insane core and finger strengths enabled her to take the momentum swing of the release and stay on the wall?
@Orynae
3 жыл бұрын
She also seemed shorter than the other climbers, some of them seemed like they weren't swinging totally out of control but just brushed the floor prematurely...
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
It's a bit of both - releasing toe hooks slowly without swinging much is a very difficult skill. It's subtle, but very difficult. Often times the tension is so great that it's difficult to control it without slingshotting off. She was able to release it slow enough using core tensions - a crucial part of toe hooking and make the move.
I love the Beta Break Series, but I shuddered when you said "listen to the commentator Liam..." :D
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks! Not sure why you shuddered, sorry.
@SharpManipulation
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay i don't want to be rude, but i always get very nervous at his commentators style :D
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
@@SharpManipulation One day maybe I'll be able to commentate and hopefully I'll appease your taste!
@SharpManipulation
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay I have no doubt that you will!
Clearly never took a physics class
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
I'm 100% sure that if you're pulling on a toe hook to prevent from falling off the wall then you're enacting a force onto the wall which in turn is creating potential energy - then converted to kinetic when you release the toe hook. I may not have a PHD in physics, but I'm 100% sure fighting gravity is an interaction with Newton's 3rd law.
@CJski
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay Close. Using a toe hook does not change your potential energy. Moving higher or lower from the ground does. Newton's 3rd law has nothing to do with energy. Fighting gravity is not an example of N3L the way that you think it is. According to N3L, the Earth is applying the same gravitational force to you as you are to Earth.
@panda4247
3 жыл бұрын
@@CJski thank you Chet. I was actually going to write something along these lines right in the beginning, when Albert says that slipping of a rock is N3L. It is not.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
@@CJski The entire premise of climbing is moving higher and lower/when you use a toe hook your center of gravity (hips) sag away from the wall causing a force to come outwards away from the wall. The toe hook fights that force by pushing the toe against the wall and creating force. If anything the mere act of pushing your toe into the wall is acting on the Third law.
@CJski
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay In that example, the third law pair is the force of your toe on the wall and the force of the wall on your toe. They are equal and opposite. N3L is just not a very useful concept for climbers.
5.08 for the money shot
the thumbnail tho
What does breaking beta mean?
Ironically, the animator couldn't key the apple so that it's in free fall.. 0:07
Goddammit Newton... why did you invent gravity.
Is it just me or she is so damn pretty
What are her injuries?
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
She's hurt her wrist and she's hurt her shoulder in the past
3:38
I got the feeling, that whoever introduced "beta" into climbing jargon really meant so say "meta"...
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
The original use of the term Beta in climbing is generally attributed to the late climber Jack Mileski. "Beta" was short for Betamax, a reference to an old videotape format largely replaced by the VHS format.[3] According to some sources Mileski would record himself on tape while completing routes and then share these tapes with friends. According to other sources it was actually a play on words, as Mileski would often ask, "you want the beta, Max?".[7]
The thumbnail is another one of those watchitfortheplot-videos
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
The thumbnail is something that she herself posted so I don't think it's at all something extreme in any way. If it was a guy I'm sure it wouldn't be questioned in anyway instagram.com/p/B2ZU42whDay/?igshid=1ctn70kh839cz
@trauma._
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay besides my troll-like comment I'd like to praise your series cause it is really entertaining and interesting to watch! Haven't been in a bouldering hall since I was 11 but the sport was always more or less interesting for me and those breakdowns are really really good, keep up the good work :)
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
@@trauma._ Lmao thanks man, no worries. I'm sure if you returned to climbing you'd be killing it in no time!
@trauma._
3 жыл бұрын
It wasn't for very long but I always felt outdoors to have at least a talent for it only problem for more of a professional type of course is the lack of strength that I have, being 190cm tall but only weighting less than 70kilos..
Good thumbnail
You have this great series with a lot of momentum, but I would recommend keeping up the quality and having more substance to them.
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Thanks and I'll try to keep it up! Sorry if you think that I haven't been keeping up the quality. I'm no professional by any means and don't have much equipment either/still have to go to work.
I think you got a crush her right. hahah
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Hahaa nahhhh, but she is a great climber that I respect so much!
@AlexadreSalmi
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay I'm with you on that mate!
What does "break the beta" mean?
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb.[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes a beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5] It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]
@ignaciolopezrodriguez3649
3 жыл бұрын
@@AlbertOkay Thank you very much sir Albert!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
@@ignaciolopezrodriguez3649 Np! :)
That is the 2019 adidas Rockstars edition you are referring to, not the 2017 one. I know because I was filming there
It’s pretty much like climbing a ladder not that hard lol 😂
You drop a microphone if you're the one who did or said something amazing. not if you WATCHED someone do something amazing
I cant be the only one that didnt have climbing on my mind when i first hit the thumbnail.....
@jebes909090
3 жыл бұрын
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
Is it the algorithm or KZreadr that selects the freezer frame of Shauna's crotch, when the video shows her amazing dynamic and static moves in all orientations? Awesome sport climbing Shauna!
@AlbertOkay
3 жыл бұрын
It's a thumbnail inspired from a post she posted herself - so I don't think it's extreme in any form and don't think it needs to be seen sexualized in any way either. Her pants are plenty long enough and if it was a guy no one would be questioning the shot. instagram.com/p/B2ZU42whDay/?igshid=1ctn70kh839cz
Aint nobody looking at her toe hook. But they are looking at another toe.
Don’t try at home