read the rules, always read the rules, and then ask for permission. lols

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Haha - if you're a beast like her you can hold onto a tiny crimp and take time to ask the rules!

@maudglazbrooke1287

4 жыл бұрын

And walk away LAUGHING! She rocks.

@YnseSchaap

4 жыл бұрын

Never ask for permission, only forgiveness 😁 sayeth some dude in a movie

@cerealex3499

2 жыл бұрын

@@YnseSchaap Eragon hehe

@YnseSchaap

2 жыл бұрын

@@cerealex3499 😁

As impressive as it was for her to use the hold, I am surprised the judges agreed that it was in play when she asked. Kudos to both the climber and judges on this one. Sadly the routesetters probably ended up with some egg on their faces.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah I'm surprised too! I'm surprised the judges followed the rule book word by word and let it pass. I guess you always have to think about the "what if's" in setting which is why it's such a difficult job!

@Xeno87

4 жыл бұрын

I'm surprised at how quickly the judges responded. Apparently there was no hesitation, no rule checking, no debate.

@scottwangkl8882

4 жыл бұрын

@@Xeno87 probably not their first time experiencing this situation then

@dreamsofmishra

4 жыл бұрын

The judges might have already pointed out of the lack of black tape to the chief route judge beforehand. The routesetters probably feeling silly.

@trezapoioiuy

4 жыл бұрын

Well, if the rule is clear and easily verifiable, there's no reason to ruminate or go against it.

My favorite part of this is the look of joy on her face. She knows that she did was awesome and is super excited by it.

@tjthill

3 жыл бұрын

Yeah. "Grace perfected."

This has to be the most awsome beta break ever. I love that kind of out of the box thinking.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Me too! Quite literally out of the box thinking too!

@olivierhuet9860

4 жыл бұрын

@Joe Weber She did the boulder not using the intended beta. Hence she broke the beta. I would argue that all beta breaks can be considered a mistake from the route setters some more obious than other. They are usually moves that the route setters either did not consider, or deemed to be impossible. It is the same wether you skip holds or entire sections of the boulders/routes use a static beta instead of the intended dyno etc ... I understand you did not appreciate this one. You don't have to agree with rules or the judges decision to allow it but, I think we can agree that she thought of something that nobody else thought of.

@bloodring87

4 жыл бұрын

@Joe Weber She broke the intended beta by the setters due to their mistake, you kind of answered your own question.

@tomnichlson

3 жыл бұрын

She's so good at that

If you don't ask, the answer will always be no. She's smart for knowing the rule and use it to her own advantage.

@screwfist

4 жыл бұрын

If you don't ask a question, there can be no answer, only information. She is not smart for knowing the rule. She did not know the rule that's why she asked. She got herself in an awkward situation and saw a way out and got lucky that the judges said it was OK. She didn't start up the wall thinking she was going to do that...

@daborshy4089

4 жыл бұрын

I disagree. If you don't ask, the rulebook wins. If you do ask, you have the possibility of rejection.

@screwfist

4 жыл бұрын

@@daborshy4089 if your opponent is a rule book then you throw it in a fire and you win. But you are competing against other people who have agreed to a set of rules. I think it's cheap to look for ways around rules that you agree to abide by. The competition is about climbing the wall using and utilizing a bunch of obstacles/objects to make it intentionally difficult so that a great level of skill is required to participate. I see it as contrary to the spirit of the rules.

@SmartDumbNerdyCool

4 жыл бұрын

You know one of the secrets to getting what you want in life

@jackoblllllllll

4 жыл бұрын

@@screwfist she got in trouble and her resourcefulness saved her. she knew the rules and asked for official confirmation that what she was thinking to do was okay. apparently it was, since it was allowed. also I dont think that burning a rulebook will make the rules disappear, they would still apply.

I doubt I could even use that crimp at all, and here Akiyo is hanging off it having a casual chat with the judges about the route....I love things like that which demonstrate so clearly the difference between an elite athlete and a casual weekender

I love her, she is so smily

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Such a fun climber to watch - every time she climbs I get excited to see what she is going to do next!

Some years back when akiyo visit singapore, i wanted to take a photo with her after her traversing warm up in a local gym...... I waited 45mins for her to finally step down from the wall lol...... Crazy strength!

@ndyoyo1905

4 жыл бұрын

Ayyy i sg as well

@MrLisztomaniac

4 жыл бұрын

which gym did she visit in SG!

@judeli1608

4 жыл бұрын

hahahahahahahahahahahah

Akiyo is my favorite climber to watch. She tries so many things statically or uses her strength and flexibility for unique betas. Such a thoughtful climber who exemplifies a climber in top form and focus.

As I was watching I thought the same “hey that yellow feature is not taped out”

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Good eye!

Way off topic here, but this reminds me of a money prize twerking competition that a rapper put out some years ago. Thousands of entries came in of people twerking, but the only person to win was a girl who read the rules. She didn't twerk. One of the rules said that twerking was not a requirement to win.

@screwfist

4 жыл бұрын

I call BS on this story. Sources? The rap industry as a whole doesn't generally reward girls for brains over body. Most twerking competitions are advertisements, promotional gimmicks to attract people to something. Not sure if it would be terribly exciting for a crowd or fan base to see some girl standing there doing nothing in a twerking competition and winning... I can imagine some rapper seeing some girl not twerk when that's what the point is and awarding a win because some wannabe hoe read a rule book... What twerking competition has a rule book? Most twerking competitions are judged by the crowd... and no crowd of people who wanna see that ass movin would say huh that ugly girl standing there doing nothing is sooo smart, let's vote for her. I think OP made that whole fake sounding scenario up. For what I dunno...

@screwfist

4 жыл бұрын

@@ST-rx1vw I stand corrected. You were right and I apologize. Now I look like an idiot...

@screwfist

4 жыл бұрын

@@ST-rx1vw that long ass post that I wrote out that I guess now was all wrong. What a waste of time. Stoopid

@silver4809

4 жыл бұрын

@@screwfist I really respect that you accepted that you were wrong, instead of being stubborn.

@screwfist

4 жыл бұрын

@@silver4809 hard to argue with fax. I said I didn't believe it and asked for sources. She sent a link. I should have washed my foot before I stuck it in my mouth...

She looks so happy climbing the wall. That's so nice.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

You can tell she really enjoys climbing!

Love her chuckle-in-disbelief!

Man, I love that smile so much, she knew she was being clever.

I love watching Akiyo Noguchi-- always a joy to spectate. Hoping to see her at the Olympics next year

i think its perfectly fair for her to use it. so much of climbing is thinking outside of what is straightforward or intuitive and she deserves so much credit for that

This was a great video, thanks man! Laughed out loud at the end.

Hello Albert ! Thank you so much for your amazing videos, I watch them during breaks in my day, on they're making me feel amazed by those climbers. Your strength is the way you hinghlights their tricks and talents with a very positive mindset. Please, could you make more of them ? :)

WHAT A QUEEN her temperament was magnetic the whole time

it’s so strange watching these back after some of the olympic games qualifiers, the sheer shift in production and scale around the sport is so so incredible to see

Great videos dude. Can't wait what you'll get to see in the Olympics

Great video! Thanks for uploading it. A comment: as you said, rules mention "any part of the Climbing Surface demarcated as..." Black tape, as it is demarcation, is considered part of the route. If you touch it, no judge should stop your climbing. In fact, that is what IFSC's recommendations for judge's work say.

Noguchi is out of all their leagues. absolutely climbed that so smoothly

Just found your channel and watched everything you’ve posted, edits are nasty and the content is awesome, thoroughly enjoyed

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Alex, means allot! I'll definitely be posting once or twice a week with more content like this. Hope you enjoy! :)

@siccodewilt1

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay the Adam Ondra beta break just got in my recommended and i am binging everything right now :)

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

@@siccodewilt1 Hope you enjoy the rest of my content !!!! :)

This is making me miss my climbing while in quarantine.

Nicely done, hope to see some good breakdowns of Jan Hojer surprising routesetters!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

He has so many surprises, it's going to be hard to narrow down which one to do!

Great content! Excited to see more!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Expect more videos next week!

This series is mad underrated - subscribed!

This was the first time I've ever heard someone pronounce the "b" in "climber."

@keithklassen5320

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah, English people think that since they invented the language, they can just do whatever they want with it, lol!

@FOWST

4 жыл бұрын

A lot of non native speakers will pronounce the b aswell.

@Violianom

4 жыл бұрын

Yeah I thought I was incorrectly hearing it..

@MilesFinder

4 жыл бұрын

@@keithklassen5320 He has an american accent though?

@mrjack08722

4 жыл бұрын

@@keithklassen5320 Yeah except for the fact that he is American.

Excellent first video and topic!! I want more videos!! :D

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

I can't wait to keep making more next week! Definitely going to cover allot of topics in the future!

Just found your channel. I love the Beta Break series! Looking forward to more.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the comment!

Love this series ❤️

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

what a beast!! love these videos

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks jigglymabob! More content to come in the future!

Great video! Hope to see more quality content

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I'll be releasing the next episode along with other content next week!

love this content

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Not every day life tells you that they like your content. I'm honored :)

wow very informative video. feeling inspired, might climb later

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

I hope you do climb! Go do it!

Me who never exercise. KZread : Akiyo Noguchi asks the rules while climbing! | Beta Break Ep.1

@MrIlovesubaru

4 жыл бұрын

lol!!! Same. Makes me wonder whether I should get out of this chair.

@sweeterbright7157

4 жыл бұрын

@@MrIlovesubaru NO BRO IT A TRAP!!! youtube is trying to trick us to EXERCISE!!!! AHHHHHH!!!! LOL

@luckyvalley7318

3 жыл бұрын

@@sweeterbright7157 so did u exercise yet

I must be the last climber in Texas to discover your channel haha! Nice production value Albert and good content!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

HI JESSE HOPE YOU DOING WELL!!!

Amazing work

people saying the judges were weird for allowing this, but i disagree, it was stated that the judges were very strict on following the rules and so it was easy to understand that this was indeed a legal move

She moves marvelously, superflexible and efficient. Very comfortable.

Ha! That is hilarious and awesome. Akiyo Noguchi, you have a new fan.

I just watched an anime, Iwa Kakeru, and saw a familiar name, Akiyo Noguchi, in the first 30 seconds. I knew i saw a video somewhere, and searched for this again. Glad to see rock climbing having an anime, like many sports do.

I read the rules and it actually didn’t say anything about bringing my own ladder... so

@Chromodar

4 жыл бұрын

@Tasunke That's not nice, completely wrecking the man's joke with facts like that :P

@shashankiyer5751

4 жыл бұрын

@Tasunke The motion passes

@krzysztofpiasek5682

4 жыл бұрын

@Tasunke Judges rules such defense as against the code presented in rulebook, sorry.

@shashankiyer5751

4 жыл бұрын

@Tasunke The defendant may not leave the court. The case is adjourned

@shashankiyer5751

4 жыл бұрын

@Tasunke True. I meant it in an informal way, in my head the defendant was still in court so I said it in a passing manner. I also love rules, thats why I'm doing law

Wonderful production

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks! Let me know what topics you would like to see next!

Thinking outside the line. Nice one.

find you through your ashima video being on mh y recommended and am now binging the rest!!

I have no idea why this video was recommended to me but it's an interesting topic.

love this beta break series, keep it up

she is a GENIUS so impressive so OUT OF THE BOX thinking

I was actually expecting her to just run up really fast stepping on each rock.

I was watching that and couldn't stop laughing :) fair play to her

Her smile is so adorable

beta break videos are so nice and professionel!

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks! I make everything on an old laptop so I appreciate you thinking it's professional!

Great video plus I love the “clime-ber” pronunciation

You can imagine the judges. She asks 'can I use that?' and they realise there is no tape, so yes she can, and then bugger. ha. Now imagine the other climbers thoughts. They'd be all, oh man, no way, dang. I know when I climb indoor, I see the route and the holds I'm allowed, and I don't even see the others. They just don't register. You sort of see the expected route and then follow it. The fact she could think outside the box is impressive in itself.

Amazing! Go Akiyo!!!!!

good for her ..my fave Japanese climber

I would love an explanation of why the series is called breaking the beta. I would think that these pioneers are breaking the meta. Is beta a climbing term i do not comprehend. Genuinely interested and have been enjoying watching during quarantine.

@prolarka

3 жыл бұрын

Indeed, it is a jargon. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beta_(climbing)

Hell yeah albert! Love the content!

World-class climber: *obliterates intended beta* Commentators: *talk about Adam Ondra*

nice job youtube for recommending this randomly^^

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for watching through the recommendations :)

And now she is a medalist at the first Sport Climbing event at an Olympics :)

watching this will make anyone's hands sweat like crazy

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Every time I watch I have to wipe my hands haha

This got me into climbing

This popped into my recommendation. How crazy strong are these people to be able to grab onto these edges like that? Do they their hands/fingers get injured a lot?

@Professor_Utonium_

4 жыл бұрын

Lotta torn skin too

@ccramit

3 жыл бұрын

Cuts and calluses are an everyday norm. Though, cuts on your finger usually signal the end of your day. Continuing would risk bigger wounds and longer rest periods.

saying "may I" gets you more than you think

Props to the tv crew for always choosing the absolute worst angle to show off the climber's moves

It was the deeply rooted Japanese politeness mentality that gave her the power to hold on that crimp for so long. 😂

that hold is insane her finger tips could crush diamonds

I love this

Just found your channel. Great content and editing, can't wait to binge your other videos! Might you have watched OnBouldering before? I saw a clip of his featured in one of your videos. Not sure what happened to him, but hope all is well. Looks like you're here to take his place!

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

I hope you enjoy the other videos! I have watched him quite a bit, he still makes videos so go check out his channel again and watch through some of his stuff! I love his channel so I hope I don't fully take his place, just want to add more content to the world of climbing though! :)

@iBcPirate

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay Unfortunately he hadn't uploaded a video in 9 months!

Fair and square. That's who I like my legends xD (reminds me of mythologic problems like "cutting 4 different strings with a single arrow")

Great content.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks Richard!

3:51 for the bit you want. video surfing: to only watch the 20 second clip and move on

@Kazz-yl4wh

3 жыл бұрын

king

I don't climb but this was the best video ive ever seen

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Hey thanks man. Climbing rank is basically the same though!

Earned. She outthought the comp and got it done.

Watching climbing for the first time. Super cool stuff. Have a question though. What's a beta?

@kellyrussell1877

3 жыл бұрын

beta is the sequence of moves you do to get to the top of a route. if someone "gives you beta", it means they tell or show you a way to do a route. "intended beta" is the sequence the route-setters had in mind when they made the route, and is what is used when grading the route, but theres almost always other options if youre creative/strong/flexible/tall/crazy enough. "breaking the beta" means finding a completely unexpected, left-field way of completing a problem that is nothing like what the route setters intended - which is what this series is about!

The left boulder is actually the fourth female problem (F4) not a male boulder. See time 2:04

whats most impressive is that she manages to climb with such a massive brain 2000 iq move

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Galaxy brain!

As an F1 fan should know, "You read the rulebook twice, one to understand it and the other to get around it"

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Absolutely!

im not even climbing, but this is clever

Really cool

very well done sir

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks David :)

@Davicks

4 жыл бұрын

@@AlbertOkay It means a lot when youtubers reply, thanks for making my day :D

honorable mention to the perfectly timed uncanny thumbnail hand beard

@AlbertOkay

3 жыл бұрын

Beta is climbing jargon that designates information about a climb (such as, "get your feet up").[1][2] The complexity of beta can range from a small hint about a difficult section to a step-by-step instruction of the entire climb.[1][3] In rock climbing this may include information about a climb's difficulty, crux, style, length, quality of rock, ease to protect, required equipment, and specific information about hand or foot holds. For mountaineering, beta may include information about the length and difficulty of the approach, availability of water on the climb and the approach, ease of exiting the route before completing it, descent information, perhaps even useful logistic information for climbs in foreign countries.[citation needed] Sometimes beta is also drawn, in the form of a beta-map.[4][5] It is common for climbers to have different beta for the same climb. In other words, more than one possible solution that can get the climber to the top. These can vary in terms of difficulty. It is not uncommon for climbs to get downgraded in their difficulty rating once easier beta is discovered.[6]

What is the ending music on this video ?

Thanks for that earrape at the end of the video

god tier video made only by the one true climbing legend himself albert fucking ok

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Bless your soul.

It's funny because as a beginner there's nothing shocking to me about wondering if I can use whatever very convenient hole that could help me out of a tricky situation.

Other players be like - Our coach never told to read this rule book thing.

My hand got so sweaty watching this

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

*palms are sweaty*

Sometimes people should just ask someone that doesn´t have a clue :D I don´t have one when it comes to climbing and using this one was my first intuition. No idea if that was allowed or possible, but it looked like a logical move.

talking about rule-breaking..... "oh well, but the judge said it was ok....."

*"Go up."*

More than anything I think this is a failure on the route setters part for being unclear about what was possible or not. But she was brilliant as always.

lol this is hilariously great. I love seeing people win by doing stuff like this.

@AlbertOkay

4 жыл бұрын

Heck yes!

Perfect example of think smarter, not harder

i dont understand this video but these people are good at climbing things

I assume the rules were updated by the next comp?

I am not into rock climbing per se. But I do enjoy people breaking rules and being badasses. lol