I just want to Thank you for your intelligence, AND for all the time you have put into this. You are awesome.

@mohammadalfonso6757

2 жыл бұрын

I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know a trick to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost the password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me.

Thank you SIR. All of your videos are straight to the point. No BS some people have the talent to teach and you are one of them. Seen alot of videos that have people with alot of knowledge but they cannot convey the right message. You have this MASTERED. Keep it up !

Way late here but i really need more on the hybrid stuff. It seem's very beneficial to my current setup. Awesome stuff btw wish you could do more vids's. Super informational!!

Thank you very much man for explaining in great detail on how to tune. I was lost big time before watching some of your videos. I've been tuning wrong this whole time lol. I'm gonna take another crack at it with a completely stock tune. By following your lessons I should have the heavy chevy screaming in no time. Thanks again for taking time to explaining this to all of us out here. Keep on rocking it bro !!!!!!! 2000 Silverado 1500 extended cab with 5.3, automatic. Mods; BTR stage 2 V2 truck cam, mildly ported and smoothed 862 heads, mls head gaskets, shorty headers, K&N cold air intake. Oh, and Flowmaster American Thunder catback with a 40 series muffler. Soon to come; tb/ss intake with 36# injectors, Holley Sniper throttle body.

Top notch Sir, thanks for the insight, Much obliged for you time & effort.

Excellent video! This is one of the few videos on idle tuning that I have watched that actually discusses idle PID-proportional, integral, and derivative. I had everything polished in my tune-VE Table, BRAF, Spark, MAF, all of it spot on and was still having stalling issues when returning to idle.. Ended up having to adjust the proportional idle to get it to stop stalling. Once I made those changes, it now idles like a champ! I could have also gone to OPEN LOOP IDLE as described in this video, but I've seen several guys with really large cams get it sorted without doing that.. I have finally solved my stalling issue at idle and could not be happier. For those of you running the Elgin E1840P-otherwise known as the SS2 or Sloppy Stage 2-just know that this is what it took for me to get that cam to idle in my .030" over 6.0 with ported heads, 92 MM throttle body, and DBC.

@ChopperDoc181

Жыл бұрын

I’m really glad to hear that you got it figured out. Idle tuning is the toughest tuning there is. It’s easy to dial in the airflow (fuel) while driving but another story to work out the “kinks” when coming into a parking lot. Nothing more embarrassing than trying to leave a car show and having your car stall several times. Most shops spend mere hours getting the MAF/VE and a few other tables straightened out. VERY few spend time on the idle tables. They basically bump the RPM up and call it a day if there are problems. Good tuners try their best to find the lowest possible idle point possible, and that takes serious time and testing. I only know of a few pros in the country that devote that kind of time into a tune. One of them is Frost. Kudos to him. He needs a week, minimum. I take two weeks because a. I’m not a professional, and b. I really want to be sure my work is solid before giving the vehicle back. I have enough cars that I can loan one out in the meantime, which is what I do when tuning for a customer. But that’s just little old me. Undercharging and trying to build a good reputation. Also it’s not my profession so I don’t rely on the money. The first Gen V I did took 2.5 weeks because it was a whole new animal. Talk about complicated. We put cutouts on that truck about a month ago and it sounds badass for a 2015 Tahoe with a stage 2 cam lmao. It’s his wife’s truck so it’s extra hilarious. Sorry for the diatribe and late response. I’m also a bit drunk. I go back overseas soon so I’ll probably have some time to do more videos then. I’d like to do some Gen IV and V here soon. Lots of good stuff to share with y’all. Another benefit of being an independent tuner is I don’t care if people know about it or not. I’ll share my secrets.

I finally find why we got hanging idle, the issue is spark idle in gear, when you move it to park the overspeed idle spark take long time to start working, also the iac has already been added air when you in gear, so when go to park iac take long time to remove air maybe 2-6 seconds And overspeed also stat working late and he add more spark so we need to remove spark from 1200 and maybe 1600 rpm The factory iac valve has a slow degassing response And more idle spark will effect I should to adjust spark idle start from 400-1600 rpm gear and park Or 400-1200 with low spark timing gear and park

Great video! I can wait to watch the others. Already linked some of my friends your vid!

Great video. I have been tuning these ecu's a couple years now and always used stit+ltit to dial in the raf but I noticed on a speed density setup that seems to be an ecu guesstimate. It works fine on maf vehicle but I recommend the dynamic way for sd cars after using this my current truck starts nad idles even smoother. My raf wasn't far off using the idle trim method but the dynamic seemed to do the trick a lot better.

@thatturbotruck

3 жыл бұрын

Another thing I never though to try was adding a little timing to the areas underneath the desired idle rpm to help it return to idle. Mine would return but had a small "hunt" first that seemed to cut that in half

Thanks for the video. Very informative.

Much needed thanks makes a lot of sense

Thanks for the video bro 🤙🏾🤙🏾

Great info thanks!

Subscribed! Awesome video, hope it works been having a heck of a time tuning since I put my cam in.

@carguytim9913

3 жыл бұрын

Update on my comment, everything I learned from your video helped me today. My car doesn’t surge anymore, idles better, doesn’t turn off, it’s great!

@ChopperDoc181

3 жыл бұрын

That’s awesome. Great to hear feedback like this.

Love your instructional method. Do you have something for setting the start and warmup parameters? Even a link to a vid that you know is a good one would be a lot of help.

@ChopperDoc181

3 жыл бұрын

Not as of yet. Been busy with a myriad of other things lately, as usual. Check out Goat Rope, he might have a something on that. If you go off of my VE setup tune, that’s a good start. From there focus on fueling and idle air until it’s drivable, then tune as shown. Spark is another thing I play with for drivability, particularly for stalling and so forth. I don’t do WOT until everything else is running smoothly, and I have an idea what fueling will look like wide open. Once I have that I work up to it. Keep in mind though, the VE table maximums dictate minimums too, so sometimes numbers will shift. That means that as numbers increase on the top, you may find numbers at the bottom getting too lean. For idle I typically increase the entire columns a bit at a time after changing the top end. Hopefully that makes sense

Still having trouble don’t know why my air is so high and looks like everybody’s tune I see is much lower , and why am I having so much trouble a freind suggested to turn. Am gear counter clockwise by one tooth , what do you think should I check it . Thank you chopper I no you busy and I am grateful for your help . I live next to a pro tuner but he won’t help he’s afraid I might learn

Nice

Subbed! Noob here, thanks for sharing your knowledge!! Keeps me from pissin off the hpt Facebook groups! 😂

If I get surging coming to a stop, are my spark over / under speed tables the best place to start? DBC throttle body on a cammed 6L with 799 heads and TBSS intake. Sometimes the surge / idle swing is enough to make it stall.

@ChopperDoc181

2 жыл бұрын

This is a very common problem with larger cams. The problem is not simple. All of the areas to address are in the video, however all cars respond differently. A few things to look at though… 1. Is your IAC still moving or does it hit zero? Also, are the numbers in a practical range? Some cams will like higher numbers to idle, but won’t like to cold start. Pick which one you prefer here. 2. Spark should only be advanced to the point of lowest MAP value… this means efficiency. 3. Lower the over/under for larger cams to keep the PCM from losing control of the torque. You don’t want huge swings. 4. Check your fueling. Bad fueling will definitely cause problems. Leaner is better when you have overlap, since there is always some air getting by which skews the numbers at low RPM. This is usually referred to as “false lean”… so actually let it be “false” since what the WB is saying isn’t necessarily true at idle. 16-17 AFR is perfectly fine. 5. Air will always enter the chamber from the easiest source. With overlap, this could mean that scavenging is the source, which is where bucking comes from. That means you need to make the intake the better source. This can be done though adding idle air, or decreasing MAP through MBT spark for that engine. The lower the MAP the better. Hopefully that helps. Good luck, it’s the hardest part about tuning a cam.

So is it safe to say if the guy I had tune my car didn’t mess with the idle screw to get idle counts down that he doesn’t know what he’s doing cause my car has an idle hang in between shifts as well as when I put in nuetral sometimes the car will drop down to 500 rpm’s then shoot back up to desired 975rpm my idle counts are at 160-180 warm and the car only seems to want to idk right with the a/c on. I’ve tried contacting the tuner multiple times but supposedly he’s the best in the world etc. he kept telling me vacuum leak but I’ve looked at everything and can’t find anything as well as spraying carb cleaner all around intake and still no fluctuation in idle so I’m wondering if I got screwed

Thanks for the info. What about using the throttle Cracker? my cammed car wants to stall (too lean) when i clutch in

@ChopperDoc181

3 жыл бұрын

Almost all transient fuel is a product of the VE table. I’d look there. Also, your DFCO settings too. That should be off while tuning. I will say though, the last car I tuned I turned on the clutch cutoff for fuel because the customer really liked the crackle effect, and the lean conditions that caused did not make it stall. It crackled like crazy though lol.

My ls1 with mildest comp thumper stalls cold every time I put it in gear, any ideas. Thanks

@ChopperDoc181

3 жыл бұрын

Increase your “in gear” spark advance a few degrees, and add some air to your in gear “Base Running Airflow” row. Usually I add 1-2 g/s over whatever the neutral numbers are. Spark though is what will make a noticeable difference.

Very informative video and illustrations. I have seen other videos where people log idle desired airflow in P/N &Gear and copy the values into base running airflow. However, in your video, you have logged Dynamic Airflow and copied the values into Base Running Airflow Table. So is there any difference between the two methods. Will appreciate your response.

@ChopperDoc181

3 жыл бұрын

Yes, my version relies on good VE or MAF data. In a gen III, that idle desired number actually comes from the base running airflow table. In my mind, and others out there, it means that using idle desired to plot idle desired isn’t the best method. It’s worked for me in the past many times on narly cams. That’s why I prefer using dynamic numbers. At the end of the day though, whatever works is what works. Go with that lol. I’m not one to troubleshoot working tunes since that’s literally the only goal. This is just another round in the old magazine to use when shit don’t work.

@72Z28

3 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the prompt reply. I have set a table for logging dynamic airflow as per your video. As advised, will start VE Tuning, then MAF, and last will be logging Dynamic Airflow

@Mr688895

2 жыл бұрын

How does one determine the correct counts to see at idle? I am tuning a hybrid 454. Ecm is a modified 94 OBD1 and the heads, intake, and injectors are 96 to 99 Vortec. My IAC counts warm are 0 to 2. I have seen 5 to 10 to shoot for and as high as 40 to 60. Does the ecm used determine this or is it something else? Thank you.

My engine doesn't like coming down to idle. It'll die after a throttle blip or coming to stop sign. It's an aftermarket BBK throttle body and IAC port is small. I get IAC steps down to 40-60 but this still persists. I drilled a small hole in the throttle body blade but I think it needs more I feel.

@ChopperDoc181

2 жыл бұрын

Giving it more air won’t help an idle hang. Look at your spark at the hang, and reduce gradually. You can use the scanner too to adjust it and test. Also, add timing back in under your normal idle range, as in 400 RPM or so. I usually set those columns to 30* to prevent stalling. Also, increasing the base idle alleviates a lot of problems. The bigger the cam, the more RPM it needs to be stable. It is possible to get them lower, like even 600, but it can be incredibly difficult to make it reliable in all conditions.

Thanks for this videos man really helpful do you accept donations?

@ChopperDoc181

5 жыл бұрын

Wow that was a really fast reply to a new video. I'm not going to turn them down if that's what you're asking... lol.

@MK-gp4qh

5 жыл бұрын

@@ChopperDoc181 paypal ?

I have a 5.3 with DBC throttle body. Cold start I log dynamic airflow and desired airflow as you described. I let all the cells get populated and take that data to the correct place in tune. My question is when I let it warm up from a cold start and say at 198 cell it gives me a 12.25g/s when fully warm. If I then go back to the tune and update the dynamic 198 cell, I load the updated tune and then turn back on the truck. Now the dynamic 198 cell wants only 8.5g/s and not the 12g/s it was just calling for. What could that be? The motor acts like way to much air, high rev on start up. If I again change the cell box back to the new 8.5g/s the engine runs normal. It’s the same for the desired if I log those as well. When warm it will want 14g/s and then after I update the tune for that it now only wants 7g/s. Maf and VE table are dialed and smooth. Maf and dynamic numbers are just about dead on to each other. It’s like I can’t drive the truck unless I let it warm all the way up, shut it off, turn it back on and then it seems fine and logged number are accurate.

@ChopperDoc181

4 жыл бұрын

Have you posted this on tech or hpt? Would be easier to take a look at the log and tune than to speculate.

@b123zmanab

4 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the response, I just made a post on HPT

@b123zmanab

4 жыл бұрын

Figured out my issue, ended up being a faulty IAC valve. Changed it out for a new ACdelco unit and all is working perfect. I do have one question though, as the truck is warming up my desired and dynamic are less than 1g/s apart. At full temp dynamic and desired get about a steady 1g/s apart, the desired is lower than dynamic. Is this okay? Should desired be more than dynamic? I used your IAC chart from the other video to see what the actual IAC wanted and most number are off by about 5. Is this close enough or should I change the IAC chart? Thank you for all your videos, extremely helpful for us new to tuning.

@ChopperDoc181

4 жыл бұрын

@@b123zmanab They can be off and vary day to day. If it's running and idling nice and warming up on its own, it's good. Remember try not to get upset if numbers aren't always perfect. The overall goal is function. Once it's functioning, no need to mess with it further lol.

Must be something else wrong can’t get it straight enough to run right now either my tunes are so bad which don’t believe they’re that bad, it won’t even idle now. I’m thinking bout taking timing chain cover off now and having a look

Great videos on tuning with HP Tuners! When people say the sound of a cam is in the tune or tunable, what's being changed in the tune? Thanks!

@ChopperDoc181

5 жыл бұрын

In this case, without VVT or VCT (Ford) or something similar (cam timing), the sound of the cam is simply the sound of the cam. Gen III cars don't have VVT so you can't change the lope with just the tune. If it has a nasty sound, then it is simply a huge cam in there with lots of overlap. The lower you can get the idle the better it will sound, but they get really unstable at lower rpms so there is a limit to how low you can get it. As for what is being changed for a cam, basically everything air, fuel, and spark related must be changed to account for the new profile. This video focuses on all of these factors for idle areas. I have other videos that cover the rest of the tuning process for modified engines, the cam being one of the biggest changes you can make over a stock tune.

@atptuned

4 жыл бұрын

Check under Spark>Advance> Idle adaptive spark> overspeed and under speed. You can make the overspeed more negative so if it’s -5.0 make it -10 and for the under speed add 5 degrees to the whole Table. Same as the under speed. Add -5 to the over speed table and add 5 to the underspeed table You can adjust it to your liking

And this would be the same process for a gen 3 that is dbw?

@ChopperDoc181

3 жыл бұрын

Basically, except you won’t have an IAC to worry about.

What is the best way to reduce fuel in gear

@ChopperDoc181

2 жыл бұрын

Reduce the air it thinks it has. Typically on the VE or MAF. If these are accurate though, then use the base running airflow table.

@michaelbaskinmichael9862

2 жыл бұрын

Will try thanks doc