Oil sludges up like that because the manifold and turbo sit so close to the oil pan, shit gets too hot and cooks the oil in the pan, gunks the pick up, and what not, dropping the pan and cleaning the pick up might as well be a recommended service in these older Saab’s, it’s the first thing I do whenever I buy a saab lol.

@stocks4bt

Жыл бұрын

Your insight is deep. Will using a thicker oil help out

@Jonjs99

Жыл бұрын

There is nothing cooking at all you are all wrong

Will be doing this pretty soon! Thank you

Very informative!!!

Saabs and oil...always fun. PCV #6 upgrade if it hasn't had it done.

use Mobil 1 15w-50 when outside temp is above 40 degrees F, Use Rotella T6 5w-40 when below 40 degrees F Have done this with all my 2.3 Saabs....all 250K plus with no turbo, engine or oil pressure issues.....

@stocks4bt

Жыл бұрын

What are the benefits of using 15w-50 vs 10w-30w

Well now I have to look up your 95 oil pan drop!!

Also update. Found my electrical issue. The main harness connection near the brake reservoir well I unconnected that and it was corrected. After some electrical contact cleaner and some filing/wire brushing, the no start 95 was solved. Thank the maker!!! Thanks for all the help!!

@KylePancis

3 жыл бұрын

thats fantastic news! always something silly lol

I would do it if I had a garage. Thanks for the tutorial 🙂

@pascalhogstrom2203

3 жыл бұрын

GÖR DET PÅ GATAN. hej gullet 🥰🥰🥰

@idiotufos

2 жыл бұрын

@@pascalhogstrom2203 In my country it's illegal to do this on the street... I don't know about yours, maybe it's more permissive.

If you check the compression again and you find that it still has low compression on any of the cylinders then I would try the liquiMolly engine flush thing that Randy from AutoAuctionRebuilds did on his former Saab as well as a fresh oil change with LiquiMolly oil. That stuff usually will make the car run better and it certainly beats rebuilding or replacing the engine. Who knows, it may solve the problem entirely

Interesting! Here, in The Netherlands, I use Castrol 10W60 oil! Recommended by Saab specialists and garages.

@stocks4bt

Жыл бұрын

Just curious why 10w-60w instead of 10w-30w

Had the same problem it was definitely the grade of oil... I had a head gasket job done and after about a month of driving the oil light would come on after daily local driving and plus I would hear the valve ticking so I checked the oil filter and I notice they had changed the oil and asked the mechanic what type of oil they put and I was told Regular Shell 5w 30 I knew then what the problem was so I put in a cup and half of the Mystery oil and drove at least a75 miles so to make sure I got the grime out if any when I changed it I put in 10w 30 synthetic blend now no more light or ticking quiet as a mouse

16:04 thats the official kyle dance ...

thank u

The area with crud is about where the turbo oil return sits in the block. Check the oil return hose for crud and cloggage. If there's crud, replace the turbo oil feed which cruds up over time/age. That's my only advice for the crud you found. I have my doubts that the O-rings was the culprit. At this point I'd dive into it and do the tight job that replacing the oil pressure sender is to eliminate this as a source of your problems.

@vernedaigle6424

3 жыл бұрын

Pull front seal and c k and clean oil pump

Kyle, did you use an activator for the loctite sealer? I recently drop the oil pan but used the permatex anaerobic from esaabparts and I am getting leaks again. I did not use an activator. I am going to try the loctite that you use but wanted to know if you used an activator.

Hey Kyle good info as always just did the same oil and seal job on my 2003 Saab 93 convertible also did you check the Engine Crankcase Breather Hose (Exits Bottom of Oil Trap) had to replace the one an my car it was bad

Hi Kyle, my engine is back from the maschinshop. They say that all of the four oil cooling jets are bad. These have to open with 1 bar Oilpressure. But mine opened at 0,2 bar. When e engine is running at 900 rpm you loos all your oilpressure throug an all bearings gone bad.

Also did you remove the transmission mount bolts to jack the transmission up?

Hi do you remember measures of o rings of pan interior tubing?

I read that the pickup screen is too fine which contributes to the oil sludge issue.

Nice work! I wonder off you used too much anaerobic gasket maker. It's never going to be more than a millimeter thick. Assume you cleaned the screen and checked the pickup tube for obstruction. Your oil pump might be tired. Wonder if an oil pressure gauge would help.

Did you not loosen any subframe bolts?

Did you look under the engine itself for any problems?

I would have checked a main bearing for wear while I had the sump off. Only 10 minutes while you are in there.

Now my Saab 95 the heat gauge is acting up will go up in middle than go to cold again??

With that exclamation point i was guessing a beanie baby, golf ball, and a wheat penny.

@KylePancis

3 жыл бұрын

lol

Good day my Saab 95 speedometer is acting up its on and off . It's 2.3lt

So, are you saying that if you loosen the right front subframe you don't have to do the transmission mount?

@KylePancis

3 жыл бұрын

only on the 9-3. 9-5 its just the torque mount

Do these cars have an oil cooler? I know the infamous GM V6 engine does and that is very problematic on those

@crymoreforme

3 жыл бұрын

Yes they have a oil cooler. But they rarely cause any problems

@mds2465

3 жыл бұрын

Good to know. Personally I would change it if it’s original because honestly those things are always hit or miss on any car, and on a car that’s over 20 years old who knows how much life it has left.

You must use fully synthetic oil.

My aero had oil pan with 2 hidden screws.. it seems that oil pan was never been dropped in 20 years and 300k

Below

Your wife and your mother in law are no help!🤣

Is this a doable job for someone who just started to work on his own car? Asking for a friend 😂

Ideally you should be using a genuine Saab/GM oil filter. They have an integrated 1 way check valve. This prevents oil draining back from the head and causing rattly tappets at startup.

Why dont you buy a scanner and stop guessing and before u took off the sump you shouldve flush

@alanfunt4013

3 жыл бұрын

If it's not throwing codes what's he scanning for? Just curious.

@anothersaabstory1237

3 жыл бұрын

You say "buy a scanner" like that would solve his issues. This solidifies that you have no idea how to help him out in this case. You should NOT flush these engines at this stage, that could release old crud that is best left alone after all these years and its early years of the first revisions of PCV. This is a hardware issue that a scanner won't solve for him.

@dj_paultuk7052

3 жыл бұрын

Typical scanners are generally useless on most Saabs with Trionic. You might get a generic code but for accurate diagnosis you have to use GM TECH II.

@anothersaabstory1237

3 жыл бұрын

@@dj_paultuk7052 Even then it wouldn't help the oil pressure issues. The only way the car knows if oil pressure is below the threshold is when the oil pressure switch is activated. The switch is a simple on/off switch actuated by pressure, so the car is in reality blind to these kinds of hardware issues.

@dj_paultuk7052

3 жыл бұрын

@@anothersaabstory1237 Yes i know, im a Saab Master Technician. Trionic will actually kill the fuel pump if the oil pressure switch activates.