Check out my video for replacing rear brakes on a 2011 Kia Soul: kzread.info/dash/bejne/pX582LuGpabgkaw.html

Like you said: of course, is the way to put the caliper up and away from caliper bolts. How you thought you could work with the caliper in the middle. you need to be hanging up on the spring. I don't think the floor jack is in a good place or right place, then you removed to the front. You don't even check and don't even know where to put the floor jack. No need any grease at all on new shims, it will attract dust. --- Man, you didn't know you have to align the holes of the rotor to get in? wow. Use anti=seize at 16:03, no oil, please . Anti-seize under shims. No torque wrench, wrong torque of pressure. -- If you remove the caliper holder, why not mount the shim and the pads together and then install everything in one time. Your head will thank you. Also, you will not have the problem you explain at 26:25. -- you don't want to push back dirty oil to the reservoir, you better open the caliper bleeder and push back the piston, so you even do a little or small brake flush. -- I didn't see any cleaning on the caliper, and any lube to the caliper piston rubber, and no even check the caliper pins, nothing. -- Torquing by hand, by guess, is like a dirty job. That's why I don't recommend this Video to any New guy doing their brakes.

@ljshowto

6 ай бұрын

Hi, just noticed your comment- I’m away from my computer now, but will go over what you pointed out quickly. You have posted on a few of my videos, but incorrect with lots of your statements like using anti seize on brake caliper parts that are meant to slide - with caliper slide pins or brake parts that are designed to slide, high temperature brake lubricant is preferred. Anti-sieze is not designed to be a lubricant, it's designed to be a corrosion inhibitor and for use in interference fasteners. You can mess up those sliding areas if you use anti seize big time. In addition, the jacking points on the car (unibody) that I used are the actual jacking points indicated in the operating manual. Jacking anywhere else can be dangerous and can damage the vehicle. Solid frame vehicles like large pickup trucks and Suv’s provide more options for jacking points- be very careful with unibody vehicles! I’ll answer the oil questions on the other video as you got that wrong also as per outlined by major oil filter manufacturers, but I’ll expand the reply on that video. I know you mean well, and correct on some “extended steps” that most auto shops skip, but the other incorrect information you provided kind of threw a “monkey wrench” into the whole statement. Thanks for the feedback tho.

@irisbaez1972

6 ай бұрын

@@ljshowto You just answered me but haven't read well my commend. I said: Anti-seize under shims. I said: see at 3:27 man. You put the jack stand way too far to the front. you didn't put it in the right place. -- I never said to put anti-seize on the shim. I think you see double vision or confuse me with another person. For me, you have done a horrible job. I do this job in my Kia soul 2012 and Elantra 2008 every year and half, maybe every 18 months, and I really do a good job, because they are my cars. So: I don't recommend this video to anyone.

no a good work. I don't recommend this video to anyone. Please see other videos before you attempt to do your brake.

@ljshowto

7 ай бұрын

Can you explain why you made that statement?

@ljshowto

7 ай бұрын

Hi, that's Bosch synthetic brake lubricant I put on the "brake pad slide areas" that comes with a set of brake pads (on some sets that include hardware) and is made for that purpose. It's not regular grease, although I may have called it that in the video - don't remember. Here is how Bosch explains their brake part lubricant on their website: *Synthetic lubricant included in all applications* *this helps reduce resistance on sliding contact points* Here is the link to that page: www.boschautoparts.com/p/blue-disc-brake-pads-be619- Yeah, brake lubricant will attract dust, but it will still work. Anti seize is really for threaded bolts, not really brake hardware and can actually end up "seizing" the brake pads in place. "Regular grease" can also seize the pads contingent on what type of grease it is. Here is a reddit thread on that: www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/ag4uqo/psa_please_do_not_use_antiseize_on_brake_jobs/ Although I'm not a certified or trained mechanic, I've been working on vehicles for over 30 years (my own used in the courier business), and probably have done hundreds of brake jobs. Yeah, sure, I've pushed maintenance intervals, but I like to adhere to basic protocols as much as I can. Thanks for your feedback tho - I see that you show emphasis on doing routine maintenance from the other comment, and I admire that.