Great job Phillip as always! I have never had the privilege of redoing brake lines. That day will come I am sure!

@PhillipBailey

2 жыл бұрын

You must not live in the rust belt like here in Northern Ontario where they put salt on the highways to control ice. Uncoated lines are typically good for 7 years here often less if the vehicle is not rust proofed.

@unclemarksdiyauto

2 жыл бұрын

@@PhillipBailey nope. Manitoba not really a rust belt. Salt on the roads but not too bad. We north of Winnipeg many hours.

Wow that was really interesting and easy to follow… thanks for describing it so well.

When you made the comment that the subframe wasn't too bad, I knew that you had to be a fellow Canadian. At this moment, a friend's Elantra is parked in front of my house with the same type of major leak. I had thought about trying to fix it for her, but after seeing your video, I know that trying this on jack stands would be crazy.

@irisbaez1972

2 жыл бұрын

If I have to do it with jack stands I would do it, it's my car. I will not pay $400 or more for these simple things.

Nice job. Thanks for the video.

You didn't mention the nickel copper lines. Makes it a lot easier. I never liked getting involved in one of those jobs because of the difficulty of bending the steel lines and making a good looking installation.

it good job doing brake line,you did nice work .gas line for me in 3/8 i go in nylon for me for now on. to hard to ben and flare

@PhillipBailey

2 жыл бұрын

Yes I bought one of those Dorman nylon line repair kits and have made a few lines with it. Its much nicer to work with than the steel lines. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks a lot. I have to do exactly the same job. And I will also cut the protective plastic. My car has the same rusty lines, the ones near the outer edge that many Elantras I see have, perhaps there is a bad design on the plastic cover. Don't you think so?

@PhillipBailey

Жыл бұрын

The plastic cover retains dirt and road salt and the lines are coated except for where the exit the cover. Bad design.

Forgot to mention I really would like to see how you managed to push your lines through those tight spots.

@PhillipBailey

2 жыл бұрын

As you mentioned the nickel copper lines are much easier to bend while putting these in. I try to use the old line as a guide to bending the new line. Sometimes I'll tie wrap the new line to the old one I've removed as I bend it. Sometimes I just measure the overall length of the line and bend it as I'm putting it into place. Thanks for the comment.

If you see my Elantra the same year you could say is brand new compared with that rust bottom. I read a lot about alignment and Hyundai says just toe at the front, nothing at the rear, and just replace any worn part.

Thanks for the video. The plastic cover. I'm having a heck of time getting it off. I've got all the retaining clips off, and have managed to pry the plastic past all the squeeze hooks (2 hooks per retaining clip). But the back of the plastic cover isn't budging, nor is the front. The back goes up to a bolt which also moors what I'm guessing is a rubber coated fuel line. I removed that bolt, but it's still connected. I can't really see all that well, but it looks like there are four plastic prongs in a square configuration, that, in theory, might be squeezed, but, I can't really access them, since they butt up against the fuel tank. The front of the cover is completely unaccessible. I can reach around and feel where the plastic cover ends, but I have no idea how it's attached. I'm curious, did you cut your cover off? Front and back? Or just front?

@PhillipBailey

Жыл бұрын

If I remember correctly I did cut the cover at the front since the lines were good at that point.

How did you manage to only bleed the rear? Wouldn't fluid in master cylinder drain when you cut lines or is there seperate areas in the reservoir for front/rear fluid?

@PhillipBailey

Жыл бұрын

I didn't mention in the video sorry but if you use a brake pedal depressor to partially depress the brake it moves the master cylinder pistons past the compensating ports and prevents all the brake fluid from draining out while working on it. The master cylinder never went dry allowing air into the front circuits.

@EscapePlanSkateboarding

Жыл бұрын

@@PhillipBailey All good. Thanks for that info! 🙏

@EscapePlanSkateboarding

Жыл бұрын

@@PhillipBailey Hey man, I'm about to do this job. About how much should I depress the brake pedal to prevent fluid from draining?

@PhillipBailey

Жыл бұрын

@@EscapePlanSkateboarding enough to turn on the brake lights is usually all it requires. either pull the brake light fuse or disconnect the battery to keep from draining it.

@wzcyberbully

Жыл бұрын

@@PhillipBailey do you open bleeder screws before removing the pedal depressor or can depressor be removed after fixing lines/before bleeding? I'm doing this on ramps and will need to back car down to lift rear for bleeding.

thank you for sharing👍

Any advice on tightening the double flare unions? I'm guessing the steel tubing takes more torque than the copper nickel side, correct?

@PhillipBailey

Жыл бұрын

Honestly I just tighten with flare nut wrenches by hand. Can't really torque the fittings. Yes the steel line won't compress as much and the copper nickel line.

Did you cut that cover, or does it just come off weird? I'm working on one this weekend and when I went under to to take a look it looks like that cover is riveted in above that bit you left on the end there.

@PhillipBailey

2 жыл бұрын

It unclips from the floor. I did cut it at the front to avoid having to remove the entire shield.

Excellent video! I have a 2009 Elantra so everything is identical. A few questions: Are the brake lines 3/16? I saw that you cut the line a couple of feet before the master cylinder. Did you find it difficult/awkward to flare the brake line that is still attached to the car? Based on the size and weight of the tools in a flaring tool kit, it seems like it would make it hard to maneuver and hold the flare bar steady while, at the same time, turning the clamp in order to create a proper flare. The gas lines look wider, what size are they?

@PhillipBailey

2 жыл бұрын

brake lines are 3/16 or metric equivalent. It's a bit of a challenge working with the flaring equipment on the vehicle but if you have a good tool its not that bad. fuel lines are either 5/16 or 3/8" I can't remember, sorry.

@walteri138

2 жыл бұрын

@@PhillipBailey I just came across Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool which would be perfect when flaring from the car. It looks more compact and not as cumbersome to use. On a side note, It seems like your brake line shield is made of 3-4 sections whereas mine is one long piece. Did you intentionally cut them into sections?

@PhillipBailey

2 жыл бұрын

@@walteri138 it was one piece but I did cut it near the front ahead of where I put the unions. I'll check out that tool. Thanks.

@PhillipBailey

2 жыл бұрын

@@walteri138 that looks handy. Just ordered it thanks again.

@walteri138

2 жыл бұрын

@@PhillipBailey No problem! One last question: How do you disconnect the brake and gas lines from the black brackets once the shield is taken off?