DIY Brake Lines The Easy (And Correct) Way
Автокөліктер мен көлік құралдары
Tools & Hardware:
Copper/Nickel Brake Line 3/16": amzn.to/3daho1k
Nuts/Fittings: amzn.to/3gOCtk5
Brake Line Flaring Tool: amzn.to/3vLlljG
SAE/JIC 37° Die Set for Flaring Tool: amzn.to/3h4WlyG
Bender 3/16": amzn.to/3zS1Adu
Bender 1/4" - 3/8" : amzn.to/3xIBnMD
Small Tube Cutter: amzn.to/2SnGKSr
Deburring Tool: amzn.to/3gNuC6q
Pressure Bleeders:
- European: amzn.to/3xNqxoI
- Asian/Ford: amzn.to/3h2quye
- Universal: amzn.to/3j6Cbqt
Break pipe separator clips: www.carbuilder.com/us/brake-s...
I may get a commission if you use the above links
Subscribe - kzread.info...
Instagram - / superfastmatt
Facebook - / superfastmatt
Twitter - / superfast
Пікірлер: 1 200
"This is called survivorship bias. You don't hear about the failures because those people are dead." Heh.
@mikealbrecht3990
3 жыл бұрын
There are old pilots and there are foolish pilots. There are no old, foolish pilots.
@sparkeyjones6261
3 жыл бұрын
@@mikealbrecht3990 The old saying is bold pilots, not foolish pilots. Makes a bit more sense that way.
@deankay4434
3 жыл бұрын
So I should check how old my pilot light is on the water heater?
@CenobiteBeldar
3 жыл бұрын
@@deankay4434 No, you should check how bold it is, you S.O.B.
@MarttiSuomivuori
2 жыл бұрын
They counted the bullet holes in bombers that made it back to the base. Surprisingly there were very few hits in the engines or the cockpit area...imagine!
I just spent ungodly amount of money to get new brake lines done and this video just adds salt to my wounds. Still funny tho
@termx260
3 жыл бұрын
Зато тормоза работают)
@walkernottexasranger7565
3 жыл бұрын
Mechanics need to make their money somehow! Haha To be fair, it does take a significant amount of time
@meabob
3 жыл бұрын
Do a set before you get upset. It's not so easy on a production vehicle.
@dsauce8780
3 жыл бұрын
To be completely honest after what I just went through relocating an HCU on an ABS unit in Mercury Marauder for a Eaton swap I actually don’t think I could pay someone to do it correctly. I used Copper coated steel lines.
@jonathanbarnes3792
3 жыл бұрын
It DOES cost an ungodly amount of money because it is still time consuming even with the modernized tool and material advancements. You can now get a higher quality job done but not necessarily cheaper.
Loving your content dude, especially the odd dose of dry humour 🤘 - Taz.
I’m so glad I found this channel. I subscribed within 15 seconds of this video. Also, “You don’t hear about the failures because those people are dead” absolutely killed me. Keep it up. 🙌🏻
@botcontador3286
2 жыл бұрын
We shouldn't hear from you cause you were killed. Just saying...
@yutub561
2 жыл бұрын
@@botcontador3286 huh?
@botcontador3286
2 жыл бұрын
@@yutub561 Collin said the joke "killed" him. That is why I said we should not be hearing from him. Ok, granted, stupid joke of mine.
@yutub561
2 жыл бұрын
@@botcontador3286 I'm facepalming at myself for not getting it sooner...
@RossomeSauce1
4 ай бұрын
Fancy seeing you here lol
This is a DIN-standardized German comment for the algorithm.
@stevepearce6689
3 жыл бұрын
All hale the DIN
@PFCKruger
3 жыл бұрын
Was ist das denn? Was ist geschehen?
@GriderTornado
3 жыл бұрын
HANZ GET ZE DIN EN ISO 9001!
@hansdietrich83
3 жыл бұрын
Wer ist dieser Norm von dem alle sprechen?
@MePeterNicholls
2 жыл бұрын
Fantastisch
Here for the jokes. Somebody else does my brake lines. Thanks.
@stevepearce6689
3 жыл бұрын
Berni is here all week. Try the veal
@POVmotorsport
3 жыл бұрын
Same, and totally worth it.
@12x2richter
3 жыл бұрын
If someone else does the brakes for you, they should stop.
@bernibeckmann9753
3 жыл бұрын
@@12x2richter they do stop, never had a brake failure. Who builds the short bus you ride in?
@joelarson1733
2 жыл бұрын
@@bernibeckmann9753 Did you... did you not get the joke he made? And you repeated?
I use an old double flaring tool like the 14.99 one you show on steel and the copper/nickel lines. I get every flare right the first time. The key is to cut the end square, deburr the inside and slightly chamfer the outside.
@9lbloodnolast873
18 күн бұрын
Yep. I heard that part and cringed. It's not a tool issue; it's an operator issue. The key is to understand how to use the tool. First step on the cheap handheld tool's instructions for double flaring: "1. Straighten tubing as much as possible. Make clean cut straight across tube to avoid a crooked flare. Deburr inner and outer edges." My thought. The guy goes over spending money on tools and suggests you buy an expensive amazon cheap tool that carries a large price tag that he has an affiliate link for instead of the harbor freight one for 1/10th of the price.
I’m blown away by how concise and useful this video is. No music, no yucking it up, no nonsense
I swear you can read my mind... I'm in the planning stages of my build while I save up for a wedding, and I found your channel from your re-wire your whole damn car video. Yesterday I was planning brake system and wondering what I needed to do to make it from scratch. Now here you are again. Thank you!
@SuperfastMatt
3 жыл бұрын
Consider it a wedding gift. Congratulations!
@yutub561
3 жыл бұрын
@@SuperfastMatt thanks! Keep up the awesome work
@daleolson3506
3 жыл бұрын
Quick get your project done,and drive as far away as possible. Do not get married.
@yutub561
3 жыл бұрын
@@daleolson3506 sad when I hear guys who resent their wives telling young guys not to get married. My future wife took out loans to pay for the majority of ours so I can save up for car parts. She supported me when I told her, while trying to pay for the wedding, that I was going to buy a rusty BMW from 84 with no engine or interior. Sounds like you picked a bad apple. No woman is worth rolling over for and sacrificing the things that make you happy.
@stevejohnson1685
3 жыл бұрын
On our first date, my crappy old car's starter failed. My wife crawled under the car with a wrench, removed the starter, we took it to the junkyard & bought a re-built, then she crawled back under the car and installed it. Married that woman!
If you are inclined to incorporate loops into the lines, orient them horizontally so as not to trap bubbles. The self (gravity) bleeding advantage of mounting the master cylinder high on the firewall is lost if little bubble traps are built into the lines.
@mikec555555
3 жыл бұрын
Don't you mean vertically?
@GriderTornado
3 жыл бұрын
@@mikec555555 vertically is the bad thing like at 6:05. The air bubbles from somewhere down below will travel upwards and get stuck in the first loop at the top. That is why Nate Steiner said to orient them horizontally
@johnterpack3940
3 жыл бұрын
Yup, that's the way I've always seen it on OEMs over the years.
@crackedemerald4930
2 жыл бұрын
@@mikec555555 the main confusion i see here is on what axis people consider the loop to be oriented. I imagine it's orientation being the axis an imaginary axle would point if you made it snug to the inside of the coil, like an electromagnet. Other people seem to see what orientation the lines themselves go up and down towards.
@barmetler
2 жыл бұрын
Good point
Bro.... you are the definition of AI... (ACTUAL INTELLIGENCE) and much appreciated. Both from an intellectual and facetious standpoint. Keep it coming man.
Austrian here: Hey, Matt - Chop an old Jag up, or weld a Marcuswagen to a Model S Tesla and install a Lada engine into it for the lolz - fine - but NEVER dare to call this abomination, you posted a Schnitzel! NEVER! It has "Tunke" (Sauce) on it! Tunke makes the bread crumb coating on it go all soft and spongy and just awful! Schnitzel are to be touched by salt and a hint of lemon juice - nothing more! Only then, the delicious crunchiness of the coating, the freshness of the lemon, and the subtle taste of the salt can truly be enjoyed! ;) (This is meant to be funny. Background is, that Germans love their Schnitzel with Sauce, while Austrians HATE sauce on breadcrumb coated Schnitzel. And because we are still a little bit bitter about living in the rotting insignificant remains of a once world power, we like to try to force our way on everyone else. Especially, when it comes to a meal, thats named after our capital - Wiener Schnitzel - never mind, that we stole that from Milano.) But honestly: Enjoy your Schnitzel,your brake lines or your car the way you like it - even with Tunke, .... :) And keep your work up - we love it :)
@ANproCUBE
3 жыл бұрын
Also Austrian here As said, pretty much only salt and lemon juice are allowed to be added. But it is common to also add a little bit of stewed cranberries ("Preiselbeerkompott"). In case someone wants a little bit of sweetness.
@Shoopadawhoopa
3 жыл бұрын
German here. I never understood why anyone wants sauce on their schnitzel. There's even a thing called "Jägerschnitzel" with that ugly, bad tasting brown sauce on it. I prefer the austrian way: schnitzel (salt+lemon) and fried potatoes with bacon. It's just amazing
@FRITZI999
3 жыл бұрын
German here ... this is a Stereotype about Germans. We NEVER eat Schnitzel with Sauce. Only a dish called "Jägerschnitzel" needs a Sauce cause it has NO breadcrumb Coating !
@12x2richter
3 жыл бұрын
Funny, speaking as an American it doesn't look ANYTHING like what you get at the Wienerschnitzel.
@davesteinick833
2 жыл бұрын
Name one other site on the interwebs where one can learn about brakes and German fare all on one post. I'll wait patiently. Oddly enough, I'm German, and I'm not certain I've ever had a Schnitzel. ...or Tunke... ...I do have brakes, though.
I'm actually working with DIN/EN/ISO standards and OEM parts at our software company here in Germany so the brake line flare bit made me chuckle :)
Straight silicone grease, like Dow D111 or a good quality silicone dielectric grease, does not react with brake fluid and attack rubber parts. Make absolutely certain it does not contain any petroleum products in it. I've been using it when rebuilding calipers and wheel cylinders as a professional mechanic for 30+ years without issue. In fact, it will greatly extent the function of brake cylinders as it completely prevents corrosion. Not to mention re-assembly is much improved. I also use it when flaring and on the threads of bleeder screws to act as a viscous gasket when bleeding brakes. Works awesome. Just thought I'd pass on a a piece of knowledge. Just watched a few of your videos. I'm new to the channel. Subed.
@craighearn747
2 жыл бұрын
Good comment on the Dow product? I used it on many application where a rubber gasket in plumbing is in contact with water 100% of the time and when coated with Dow the material is never degraded by the water. Wall hung urinals have a rubber cone gasket and once coated seem to last forever. You comment gave me other ideas.
@billsmith2212
Жыл бұрын
I put a thin film of Never Seize on the bleeder threads . When replacing brake lines , hoses , calipers or wheel cylinders , I also put Never Seize on the threads . A little insurance in the Northeast against corrosion .
You were spot on about the flaring tool. As a hobbyist, I hesitated to buy it as it does have a huge price tag. But as the saying goes - if you buy cheaply, you pay dearly. Today, I did my first brake line for my Morgan 4/4 and the flaring tool you recommended made it super simple. Without this video - I might not have dared to tackle this task myself. Greetings from the DIN motherland and a huge Thank you.
Hi , I've been working on and making brake pipes since the 1970s and have seen many horrible examples from so called professional workshops. It's so good to see someone who is proud to display their work for the whole internet to view.......I agree with your method's and uphold your workmanship and examples. Please carry on and perhaps people will once again find pride in their work ..😀😀😀
Pushing the brake pedal for your dad 😂😂😂 Brings back memories...
@TheMrtMts
3 жыл бұрын
My teenage daughters are the available source of leg muscle for me 😀
@Rob-lz5iz
2 жыл бұрын
I remember "Pump it!, I did!, Did you pump it?! Yes, I pumped it! OK hold it! I'm holding it! Did it go to the floor?? I think so! Do you feel any pedal?! I don't know! For Petes sake! "
@MikkoRantalainen
2 ай бұрын
Still doing the "press and hold the brake pedal for bleeding" thing with my dad. He's only 73 years old. When you have two knowledgeable people doing the job, pressing the brake pedal method is very fast and requires practically no setup.
I love the "you know what, I'm just gonna buy one." Motive pressure bleeder has saved me soo much time on all sorts of jobs.
I'm in the process of procuring a fleet of Triumph Spitfires to build a race car and have thoroughly enjoyed your videos. They are as comical as they are informative - a perfect combination for learning. Thanks for sharing your experiences and knowledge. I've been working on machines for some time but am by no means a master mechanic. Your tips and tricks along with your ingenuity are awesome! Keep it up and THANKS!
This is an amazing video, didn't have to hear about aunt Mae's goiter or your life's history, just got right to the point and gave clear instructions at a good pace. Thanks
I have to say, this video came out at a good time. Replacing the 56 year old lines on my MGB was not really something I was looking forward to. I purchased the bulk line some time ago, now I know which tool I need to do the flaring. Thanks for posting this.
Some dual-cylinder brakes use a cross-over separation, rather than a front/rear split. (I.e. one drives Left front & right rear brake, the other right front and left rear.) That way, the result is a degraded but still balanced (half) system, less likely to misbehave than if one end's down..
@morganfreeman5171
3 жыл бұрын
Also double X / double H / Triangle (volvo) patterns exist on higher end, faster or heavier vehicules !
@mokeimusic
Жыл бұрын
AMC did this with their cars.
@aaronschocke2147
Жыл бұрын
I don't know if this is Deja vu, or if this thread was copied verbatum elsewhere, because I remember these exact words, followed by a LONG thread arguing over which is better. I remember the conclusion being that it was a horrible Idea. Lol
@notsam498
Жыл бұрын
Then you have newer cars with abs modules that have a brake line going to each wheel separately from the abs module. This is because abs modules run double duty as part of the three stability and trac control system.
@eb110americana
Жыл бұрын
@@notsam498 Yes, I want to say pretty much every new car today has an ABS distribution block, which facilitates 4-channel ABS for now mandatory traction and stability control.
Beautifully done info video! (50 years in fleet maintenance - now retired. And my wife from Korea makes great Schnitzel too! Lived in Germany for a total of 14.5 years! 😍)
You're pretty awesome dude. I'm having brake issues on an old junker and had no idea what it took to build hard lines. This was incredibly educational and made me realize I am not qualified!
Thank You for a Great video! I twisted a wrench professionally for a number of years and brakes were one of my specialties. After watching this, I have to say, this is one of the most inclusive and succinct videos on brakes I've seen. You covered the basics and nailed the details. My 65 EV Ranchero is setup very much the same...... again Great Job!
I like your style. Your casual attitude and narrating is entertaining! Plus I learned a few things along the way! Thanks Matt.
Dude...your information is spot on...sense of humor is on target...did I learn something, YES? Check twice when sliding on the nut, that its not backwards....Ugh! I did this twice.
Im building a classic car with little automotive experience , but plenty of industrial mechanic, machining and fabrication experience and I love how these videos are technical but still break down the automotive stuff to ppl like me. Excellent videos and the jokes got me cracking up over here!
What a great video…I am about to make new brake lines for the first time in years, so glad I watched this! Thanks, Matt!
Very nicely done, Matt. Humorous, succinct, accurate. You nailed it! 😊👍
When my Ranger was ready for new brake lines I took the step and bought all the fittings, pipe and flaring tool that I needed. Actually really enjoyed doing it, I did my best to follow the original shape of the existing lines and it looks pretty good. I even left some extra length at the front ready for when I body lift this summer.
Thank you Matt. I'm ditching the ABS system on my 1992 Merc and I did pick up an adjustable prop valve. This rig had 4 wheel disc brakes before but now I've larger front brakes to add to the equation. I too like adding tools to my collection to make these car projects more competent and reliable. Purchasing said flare tool now!
Great tip on using a dab of break fluid while flaring! I've also gravity bled brakes-to rid the system of air, it helps. Still need to bleed.
"You don't hear about the failures because those people are dead" 🤣 I'm stealing that
This is the best break line video, Smart to the point and only the facts, so I wont be one of the dead ones! Thanks
I have a vacuum pump. I love it. I can do brake bleeding and brake flushing by myself. I wasn't too happy with the speed bleeders though. Making my own brake lines is still a little bit of a challenge for me. I just don't do it enough to get good at it. You do nice work. I really enjoyed this video.
This comes out right as I'm thinking about replacing the brakes and lines on my car, awesome :)
@kramer26
3 жыл бұрын
Is it a Mercedes by any chance? One of the few cars I've seen them actually rot out on...
Excellent show mate. I watch the whole thing smiling. 👍🏽
These videos are a JOY. Just bought a '53 M38A1 Jeep and have lots to do on it. Learning a ton with your videos, and laughing along the way.
That flaring tool is sick!!! I stripped out a bunch of crappy flaring tools, finally got a quality one. But this one tops the lot. Will buy 👍👍
And that's why your dad left... I'm dying here, love it. 😁👌
Some great lines in this.
You always create great content with the perfect amount of snarkiness. Great to see an actual engineer explain the “why” of your decision making and the comments where you say” do this and you will die” enforces your decision making content. I have done many lesser versions of what you do and it good to know that even those best in their field have also made mistakes.
I learned from my dad too. However, he left some things out and is too cheap for his own good. Thanks for the video, these help loads with just the tool recommendations and usage alone. Your experience is a thick layer of icing on the cake. Subscribed.
Dankeschön, from Germany 🇩🇪
@terencemalik6415
3 жыл бұрын
DIN TUV DIN TUV DIN TUV :)))
@horstwinterscheid4927
3 жыл бұрын
@@terencemalik6415 Wenn schon, dann bitte:TÜV!
Commenting for the algorithm, also don't think ive laughed so much at a brake line video so thanks
I have a new old 95 Subaru wagon and will need to make some brake lines in the future. Like many KZread videos you have made a difficult job seem doable, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to put this together. I have to reroute some brake lines due to my new headers and didn't have the slightest clue as to where to begin.
This channel is sooo fucking good man
@KT-ur7pi
3 жыл бұрын
It's the best thing since flares, man. ☮️
@JohnSmith-pl2bk
3 жыл бұрын
@@KT-ur7pi Double-bubble, man....
@daos3300
2 жыл бұрын
calm down. it's ok.
@NoSaysJo
2 жыл бұрын
@@daos3300 no one cares
There's automatic proportion valve for the rear, also called fifth valve in some areas, to compensate brake force in correlation to load to the rear axle. It has a physical link/lever to transfer axle/body gap to the valve thus knowing the load.
Thank you for the video. Going to redo mine with stainless. Already have everything except the time. All the flexible I went OEM. You've helped me restore my Japanese KEI truck. 👍.
Everything you said is true… Wanting a refresher on running brake lines. All the mistakes you mentioned? Sitting here shaking my head. Yep, I remember doing that. Doh! Well done video.
I want a T-shirt that says “all hail the algorithm!”
@1one3_Racing
3 жыл бұрын
I'd buy that
@DougHoyle
3 жыл бұрын
@@1one3_Racing As would I.
Very informative, and very funny. I hope I don't ever really have to do this, but now I have an idea of what's involved. Most of my Ethernet cables don't have one of those little boot thingies for the same reason why you are required to forget one nut before flaring.
One thing the people who taught me and people who taught them failed to mention (or learn themselves), lube the flare when flaring. I figured that one out on my own later in life, with brake fluid of course, makes a huge difference! Nice video
Thanks for this. I’m changing my brake lines on an old Ranger for the first time ever. I’ve never even heard of wheel cylinders or flares before, so this has been a lot of new info haha
I've been using the Titan 51535 double flaring tool. It's been making perfect flares for me and you can make flares while the brake lines are on the car. The OEM Tools flaring tool can't make consistent flares compared to Titan. I'm also very surprised it only costs $40.
@therealgaragegirls
2 жыл бұрын
I use this same Titan flaring tool. It's amazing--and only $45!
@TC-dw6wg
2 жыл бұрын
Ooops…it went up $5.00 in 9 months…….that sucks like everything else! ✌️
@jonking7345
Жыл бұрын
Up to $50 now, of course
The flaring tool you show is great for making new lines on a build project... But pretty useless for repairs where a splice is needed to a line still on a car. There are great tools for that, and although a bit clumsy because of size, work fantastic. I use a Mastercool hydraulic tool, and am very happy with the results I get. (If I remember to put on the flare-nut)
I so could have done with this video a few weeks ago when my crappy Toyota decided to burst a line. Clever design they have at Toyota, the last two inches of line are uncoated, bent 180° and hidden under the wheel arch cover😉👍. Anyway, I learned all this the hard way but it's still nice to watch you do your stuff Matt. 👍
I did the old school brake bleed system for years even working in a brake shop. Then once I was stuck without anyone to pump the pedal after repairs so i removed the bleeder on one wheel at a time when i saw the bleeder hole fill with fluid I put the bleeder back. Afterwards I checked the pedal hardness and I was surprised that it was excellent. I gently test drove and it was very good, so I drove and braked a little harder, still very good. I was going to arrange for a friend to help with a bleed the following weekend but the brakes were so good that I didn't do it. I have now done this many times even on ABS brakes and i have never been disappointed with brake performance. I would certainly do it differently if I encountered any problem. Keep in mind I only repair a single brake at a time, not disassembling and draining 2 or 4 brakes at once, and keeping the master cyl cover on and full to reduce leakage until the line is connected again. Complete one wheel then move on to the next, i don't remove the brake line until I know I am prepped and ready to connect the new part.
Great video, but want to pick up a few points... Most cars have a diagonal split system. Same concept, just that one circuit goes to one front and the opposite rear wheel, the 2nd circuit does the other diagonal. This is to prevent losing just the fronts or rears and to give more stability when braking with just 2 wheels. The copper nickel line in the UK is called Cunifer, can you guess why? Also, those coils in pipe near the master is generally to increase fluid in the line and improve pedal feel, but it does all those other things you describe too... Finally those small pipe cutter often have a deburring tool built in.
@LL-tg2sg
2 жыл бұрын
Cu Ni Fe
In europe fwd cars usually have brakes on X config. FR + RL and FL + RR wheels. And thank god for the Germans.
@igorschannel
3 жыл бұрын
I have a 1991 Fiat in Brazil that works the same.
@JohnSmith-pl2bk
3 жыл бұрын
Hey, Lada Nivas have BOTH brake circuits go to the front calipers...as I found out when one OEM front right brake hose let go at the crimp...after 19 years...but I still had brake effort from that caliper from the second circuit! Of course, being Russian, no replacement crimp fitting was available... so the brake professional reused and recrimped the original fitting.... tested it to 3000psi...good to go...
Man I appreciate your knowledge and wit.I have been through 1000's of you tube videos and you are legitimately the King.please accept this👉👑
I wish every video on youtube was this good in giving a lot of good information while telling it in such a funny way! love it!
it seems you've missed the part how do I tell if I need a double or bubble flare (i.e. different ports and nuts)
I'm pretty straight till I get bent out of shape PMSL #PrideMonth, not that there's anything wrong with that....
I had the cheap flaring tool and suffered for many years with it. Then out of frustration, I purchased the one in this video. My world changed the flares were all good and the hard-line was not deformed or gouged. I learned a valuable lesson!!!
@tissuepaper9962
3 жыл бұрын
Buy once, cry once!
Thanks super fast Matt !!!! Just bought an old nova now I can do my brakes.
The word you're looking for regarding German standards is "precise" The Germans as a people are well known for their adherence to the letter of the law, if not the spirit so much, and as such they make sure the letter is so ironclad and immovable that there can be no cheekiness around specifics of this or that.
@V8interceptorChannel
3 жыл бұрын
And thats also why Germans will never have: Customs, hot rods, budget race cars, tuners, grassroots motorsport or any form of automotive creativity just like in videos of SuperfastMatt.
@Shoopadawhoopa
3 жыл бұрын
@@V8interceptorChannel Actually we got most of this. But to get a car street legal in germany can be quite an adventure...
All hail Al Gorithm!!
my tool man introduced me to a sur&r hydraulic flaring tool. works just as good as that Easton unit but costs 3x as much and doesn't need a vice. I love it.
The exact explanation I’ve been searching for. Getting ready to run all new braking system on an old Jeep. You just cost me a lot of money. Subbed
@JOMaMa..
2 жыл бұрын
Walking will save you a lot of money
If you mess this up, you fulfilled DIN 9000:2015. What DIN9000:2015 is, you might ask? Well, DIN9000:2015 defines what an error/mistake is.
@Finnspin_unicycles
3 жыл бұрын
My favourite DIN is 8580, which (among other things) contains the definition of cleaning.
@12x2richter
3 жыл бұрын
Soon it will be renamed to DIN 9000:2020. What a mistake THAT was!
Use compression fittings on my brakelines - laughs in Swagelok.
@Shoopadawhoopa
3 жыл бұрын
I'd rather not do that... Usually the brake hose connections should be able to withstand at least ~100bar (1450psi) and a lot of vibration. Usually compression fittings are less than ideal for this application ;)
@VEC7ORlt
3 жыл бұрын
@@Shoopadawhoopa Rated for 2000 to 15k psig, depending on what you choose, also built so finely that doing other fittings feels like banging rocks by comparison. But thats just joking around, for brakes I'd use brake stuff - compatible and commonly available.
Thanks for the tips and the humor. Both are useful and necessary when working on old cars.
Thanks for your video, great information. As a mechanical fitter we used copper tube for machine lube lines and to straighten out the copper tube we would use a flat pies of wood and tap the copper tube while rotating it on a hard flat surface like a bench and this will give you straight tubing, hope this helps.
There is a third brake standard, the Japanese metric double flare. Used on japanese imports and they are a double flare, but with a metric nut. just a little pedantry
Hail hail to the Almighty algorithm.
The ni copper line is really nice stuff. Really easy to work with. Bends easy, flares easy. It's all I use anymore.
Wow. Beautiful video. I knew most of this but amazing for those starting out. BTW, i used one of those pressure bleeders that connect to the MC for the first time. I had always done the pump and bleed method prior. I think it blew out my MC and after it started leaking. So I would recommend sticking with whatever method you have done in the past, or the previous owner did.
Okay, I gotta get this out of my system- You're not using imperial. You're using US customary. To be fair, there's no difference between a US inch and an imperial inch (it's internationally standardized), but there's a big difference when you're talking about volume. A US gallon is about 3.79 liters. An imperial gallon is about 4.55 liters. A US pint (≈ 473.18 mL) divides into 16 US fluid ounces (≈ 29.57 mL each). An imperial pint (≈ 568.26 mL) divides into 20 imperial fluid ounces (≈ 28.41 mL each). Okay, I feel better now. Happy #PrideMonth.
steel lines are the worst. rusts through in few years on new cars. copper all the way.
@OCtheG
3 жыл бұрын
Even stainless braid 400 series? Thought those were basically foolproof
Nice to see new and clean brake lines and fittings. BUT, I'm trying to repair the stuck and very badly rusted frame and brake lines of my '93 (YES. 1993) GMC Jimmy. I replaced the line from the ABS system to the right front brake. 72 inches long with several bends. This line was flared at both ends and came with the nuts on the line. I was pleased to learn of the newer lines that bend without collapsing. I don't have all the expensive tools as I don't plan to spend the rest of my life replacing brake lines. I do have a vacuum pump. But it kept sucking air into the pump instead of fluid. One suggestion was to put a bit of grease on the nut to prevent sucking air. But that didn't work either. Then I resorted to a clear line and jar, and pumped the brakes to force fluid into the jar without it sucking air. I must do all this by myself. I'm here on YT as I am waiting for the penetrating solvent to maybe free up the fittings. No car lift. I must jack up the Jimmy, with jack stands and concrete blocks, and then crawl around on the floor under it, with the crap falling into my face.
I spend way too much time watching automotive KZread, specially in the car modification niche and you by far have the best commentary to go along with your interesting builds
Im so mad at past mechanics.
@Obama___
2 ай бұрын
And the engineer who designed the car, WHAT THE FUCK WAS HE THINKING
"I like spending money on tools" *buys Snapon electric stuff that is demonstrably worse than Milwaukee* Yea Id say you like overpaying for tools too
I live in the Northeast. A few years back I decided to replace all my break lines on my 10 year old truck. I used the very tools you showed in your video. I also had purchased a service manual for any specs I may have needed. In the maintenance section for brakes there was a recommendation to flush the brake lines every 30K miles. I had never heard of doing that and no dealer had ever recommended that was due, even on my Corvette. The MityVac for pressurizing the brake system works great if working alone. Note: always use the recommended break fluid for your vehicle.
@netts2315
Жыл бұрын
Yeah brake flushing is important when the brake fluid absorbs too much water. The extra water lowers the boiling point of the brake fluid which is usually around 220 degrees Celsius, and with heavy braking will start to boil. Needless to say that's not good. For a peace of mind you can buy a fancy brake fluid tester that heats the brake fluid and checks the temperature it boils at and check if you're within spec, or you can just replace the fluid every so often, two years I think it was the recommended interval. I mean there's cheap ones for the testers that you can get for like 16 bucks but honestly at least I would feel a lot better with a better quality one that shows the exact temperature the fluid boils at.
You are indeed the most humble person on KZread, sir! I giggled out loud when you said "A-mazing" because your delivery was so chill even though you just did boss-level shit. Thanks for making these videos
love that flaring tool you have, i ended up with the cal-van one cause i do most work on body rarely do i make the line and then install. so the cal-van took a bit of learning but works great. i just got done with a 90 caddy that had sae one end iso other. for this there is no better way to do with out a bunch of adapters. nice video
If you have to make repair flares on a vehicle the Titan flare tools work great in tight spaces even on stainless brakes line. Some of the KZread videos make you think it's physically hard to flare stainless brake lines but I found it to be pretty easy (with the Titan tool). I'm converting the rear drum brakes on my 1980 Chevy K20 to disk brakes and you have to replace the 3/16" steel brake lines on the differential. I had to replace a short piece of 1/4" 409 stainless and I used the Titan flare tool (for 1/4") to do it. I used stainless unions and fittings because you really have to tighten them good. I bought just about everything you suggested. I love the nickel/copper brake lines and flaring tool you used in this video. Titan 51535 3/16-Inch Double Flaring Tool
Never thought about making break lines because always thought you needed like expensive special tools to bend the pipes, same with flaring the pipes. Now watching this video makes it very very doable and not so expensive. How cool.
This is a great video man. I'm redoing the brake system on my 74 Cushman Truckster, this will help alot
A video I don’t need now but glad to have watched it and saved for future use. Thank you
I accidentally bought the flare tool you used. I could never go back to anything else. It is awesome!
Great video. just long enough to cover all relevant topics, dos and (more importantly) don'ts. Also level of humor is just right. TYVM :)
Motive brake bleeder works great, bought one about a month ago. For the imports I made a universal cap
I used to install new custom brake lines on the legendary Beecham Jaguars , I introduced Dr Greg to the super small tubing cutter good for removing lines in place . The copper Alloy you use was my favourite . We used compression fittings, they were standard on the Mk2 Jags we were restoring ….
Thanks for the brilliant videos. I've watched 750 of them so far. I actually have my first polite suggestion I learnt from air conditioning land. When you're de-burring the flare, I usually try to do it upside down so that any bits of metal that come off fall to the ground, rather than falling into the brake line and eventually meeting with the softest part of your caliper piston seals :) I realise this is an old video, but I only just watched it. Thanks for all your educational content and your brilliant dry sense of humour. Are you sure you're not British? :)
I'm with you Superfast! I love the lines and beauty of the old classics but I detest the technology they roll on. Keep making these videos. Informative and humorous.
As soon as you said you were cranking rear brake down to do sick burnouts...I'm in!