This channel is specific to Remote Control Cars related videos. Mostly Kyosho Mini-Z or 1:28th scale R/C. The purpose of this channel is to share the knowledge I've gained through out the years and to help others on how to setup their 1:28 scale R/C.
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Another great video. Ive lost and won many races with the difference being 10ths of a second. Any little bit helps, especially in classes like box stock.
I did notice the ceramic bearings are non-shielded vs the shielded steel ones. Could that have played in the steel ones to be slower maybe??
Not sure. I didn't try that.
Very nice driving! Few questions…Do you ever steer lock to lock? How do you know when you need to brake instead of coast and turn in? Lastly how do you know when you have too much steering or maybe too little?
Appreciate that, thank you! Yes but rarely. I mean, I reach the steering lock position but I don't drive lock to lock. I make sure to use the entire steering range. I know others have their dual rate to almost max or maxed out so that they get to the full throw asap. I don't do this, my dual rate is around 63-77. This is not my kind of driving because I'm not relying on the front wheel to slow down the car. This style is only good when trying to set a fast one but not when racing. Depending on the track layout. I have been racing Mini-Z since 2007 but I didn't use brake until May-June of 2024 because I didn't think I need to learn how to use brake until my layout design in May. That track layout (the one in the video) required the use of braking at the end of the back straight. The difference was .20 secs between using brake vs coasting. I only use brake at the end of a long straight. In field, almost never. When the rear end is just whipping around on every turn. If you're new to this scale, set the car up to where the car is understeering. Even if you're an Expert driver in big scale R/C cars. You want this scale R/C to push a little to make it easy to drive. Once you figure out how to drive it, then start adding more steering via dual rate, heavier body or softer front springs. After doing all that and you still want more steering, change rear tires. Yes, the rear. Change it to something that has less traction. For example, if you're running Marka 5 slicks, try running Marka 10 slicks. If you did all that and still want more, change the front tires. I suggest to start with easy tires such as Kyosho 30 Low Height taped on 20mm rims. Use Route 246 tape only, not any other brand tire tape. Next step up would be PN KS1142 on 20mm rims. Also taped. I have plenty of videos where I talked about setup if you search my channel. 🤙
Man that is some awesome data!!! Numbers just don't lie do they! Thanks for taking the time to make a big sample size!
Hey Man, I appreciate you commenting and letting me know about the video. 🤙
Hi Tjay! I finally was able to get a gl-sd-esc 10t to pair up with my rocket 2500 and like you said, there is no cogging. However, i feel that its going slow compared to the videos that i see from you. (I am running 53/12 gearing) was wondering what esc setting i should look into since there is no turbo and Boost since its sensorless. Also anything on the radio worth looking into?
@@carmichaelt2762 Hi Carmichael, Finally you got one! Just so you know, the Rocket 2500KV is not a fast motor. The only reason why we’re running this motor is because this is our local spec motor for the 2500KV-Lipo class. If you want speed, the PN and GL are faster. As for my settings in the ESC, mine is pretty basic. No boost/timing. I have my setup posted in my Community page. You’ll have to scroll down because I posted it a while back. I’m running 13/53 because this is our spec gearing. I didn’t do anything on the radio. Just basic setup. Throttle curve at 0.
Here’s the link:kzread.infoUgkxCFhFKLNkXNjPUTLBu5dr0eI3ahPZAeKc?si=eyGw-DPNc4fxnW-V
@@tjaymacRC sweet!!! Thank you again 😊
@@carmichaelt2762 You're welcome!
May I check what wire do you use to tap onto the motor points
@@888-RC I was just using one of the 3 pins male connector. Then I opened up the housing to expose the pins.
@@tjaymacRC can you share the link for this connector pls. It seems like the perfect length and width to test these motora
@@888-RC Hi, I just made mine. I didn’t buy it. It came with as a kit when I bought one of the chargers. Sorry Idk the name of it. Maybe its called 3 pin JST connector? I’m not really sure.
Are you using gekko tires for the front too?
@@popitn2nd MR04 = Kyosho 30 Low Height, RX28 2500 = KS1042.
Tjay are you going to the race in Denver Colorado in September
Hi, No plans on entering any events.
@@tjaymacRC tj got a question i have a gl gt a pn 2.5 3500kv car and a rocky mountain spec car (modified box stock mro3) and a box stock mr03. I am trying to find a jomurema car kit or a jomurema pro car kit do you know any place they are available here in the US.
@@rickzfpv3118 Rick, I'm not familiar with Jomurema car kit or Pro Kit. Are you asking about the Jomurema GT01 body like this? www.hobby-addicts.com/collections/jomurema/products/jomurema-gt01-car-body-set-white The only Jomurema I have is the body (link above) with the PN Roof: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-V2-Lexan-Roof-JOMUREMA-GT01_p_46074.html Then I put PN spoiler on the Jomurema body: www.kenonhobby.com/PN-Racing-Mini-Z-Touring-Car-Lexan-Rear-Wing_p_46885.html Not sure if this is what you're asking for but just in case. I just posted the links.
@@tjaymacRC no I already run the gt01 body on most of my cars already. They have a rtr car kit and a pro kit that from what i understand are in the same class as the mr03 rwd and the evo cars
@@rickzfpv3118 Oh ok, sorry I'm not aware of it.
Man i need that esc for the rocket motor. Cant find it any more 😢. The tires are good for practicing. Cost effective! Also good when its colder. Its got good grip. I have to say though that it wears out fast.
Sorry to hear man but yeah, GL doesn't make those ESC anymore but you can still but the V1.2's which works with the Rocket 2500. Thanks for sharing! I use mine on my MR04 and the tires are now slicks. I haven't had any loss in traction but then again when I was running these tires, the layout was put out for a month so the traction was there. I probably would feel that loss in traction on green track.
Great video again I just purchased the same gear diff but was wondering whats the trick to getting the right adjustment? When adjusting what am i suppose be looking for how fast the rear rotates around the turns? Is it better to run tight or kind snug or loose? Thanks in advance!!
Thank you for watching! I prefer dry or the dry chain lube (the one in this video) so the gears are free to move. When I flick one of the wheels, both wheels would spin freely with noticeable sound of the planetary gears spinning. Like the gears are dry! Any light grease to me at my local track, just feels like the left and right wheels is fighting each other on mid-corner. But when I remove this light coat grease (Tamiya ceramic grease), the gear diff feels nice and smooth in the mid corner. You can even tap on the gas to make the rear rotate a bit to keep a tighter mid corner line (only used when setting fast lap). So mine is not snug, its probably in between the snug and loose. You want to keep an eye out on that adjuster nut. Sometimes this backs off. What you want to do is to put the diff in the car, install the rear wheels and torque the right rear wheel nut all the way. Then back out the adjuster nut to your liking on how you want your diff to feel. You want to do it this way because that wheel nut plays a big role on why others cars have tight diff or why the car feels different every time they touch that Right Rear wheel nut.
@@tjaymacRC Thanks again for the great info!!
2 things 😂. Can you elaborate more on using a mass damper and have you used the reflex tires yet?
Hey Justin! 😂I had the comment off on that video because I didn't have enough time testing with different weight and tires. lol I'm not sure if you read the description box from that video but in there, I mentioned something about it. I did the test in Aug 2023 and again in Feb 2024 on my MR03 EVO because I couldn't keep the frontend of the car from bouncing off of something every time I hit the sweeper on full throttle. Adding weight didn't help, applying grease didn't help either so I tried a long shaft (screw) with smooth barrel type weight mass damper. The weight was sliding up/down the shaft freely and with the added 3g of weight, this "bounce" on the sweeper was almost eliminated. It really kept the frontend planted but I also had a lot of understeer from the added weight. I think if I spent more time on that, I would've tried different front tires and proper race body, but I stopped the test because my MR03 EVO (LiPo) broke (started cogging) and I also didn't like to use the 1S LiPo batteries... As for the Reflex tires. No, I haven't and I don't plan on trying any tires that is the around the same price as Marka or PN Tires.
@@tjaymacRC I was thinking of making my own mass damper with soft springs top and bottom of a 3 gram weight. 3 grams gets me to race weight anyway. I worry about under steer with the added weight because that’s what happens when I add any weight to the front. This is with any tire comb. I also had a really bad steering problem with my glr but finally figured out that the delrin pivot balls fit too tight around the kingpin.
@@tjaymacRC also, sorry for not reading the description of the last video. I will go back and do that. 😃
@@justinjames4969 It would be a tight fit even if you use 1 tiny spring because the location of the screw will be under the hood of the body. The weight has to be barrel shape as well. The coin or button shape weight does NOT slide freely up/down the shaft (due to seesaw effect). The barrel type does and using that will take up most of the space under the hood are of the car. But do share if you're able to fit one. Sometimes when I want more steering but I don't want A LOT of steering, I would go up in rear tire compound to something harder. For example, if I am understeering with Makra 5 slicks, I would try Marka 10 slicks. If Marka 10 slicks is still too much rear traction, I would go with a worn out Marka 15 Radials that are now slicks just to get the steering I want. Anyway, glad you got your car figured out.
@@justinjames4969 - No worries. I have info on most of my videos in the description box. ;)
I know the mini-Z was made for those rubber workout tracks, but... is it possible to drive this thing anywhre else? are you able to drive it on tile, or a gym floor, or could you drive it around your house that is hardwood floors and tile? etc... I really want a car I can whip around my house and also be able to take to the track on occasion, but the track would be a after thought... Would I be better off just buying a 4WD mini-Z stock box car that drifts and just ripping around my tile? Also do they make any 4wd reflex drift miniZ cars or does reflex only handle the 2wd race setups?
Mini-Z wasn’t made for foam (not rubber) tracks. The track came after the Mini-Z… You can use it anywhere as long as the ground is smooth and clean. I have a box stock for my 6 y/o that she uses at home on the floor. I just have to sweep the floor and mop it before she can use her car. If I only sweep it, the car still gets dusty. If I don’t sweep, the car would pick up hair on the floor and get stuck on the wheels, drivetrain, etc. RWD can easily spin out on house floors or even garage cement floors. You’re better off getting the AWD from Kyosho. Reflex only makes RWD. No need to buy expensive kit cars for bashing on house floors. Box stock is perfect for that.
@@tjaymacRC thanks for the info! Do you know anything about the M20? AWD.. i've seen some videos saying the M20 is better for slower drift or something to that nature, but didn't know if you have any experience with AWD and if you prefer the older or the newest or if you have a specific AWD model you'd recommend?
@@Nullscr1pt You're welcome! I don't know much about drifting honestly so I'm probably not the person you should about about drifting but I have pretty decent throttle control which is what you need for drifting. If you're asking about too much power/torque with the MA030 it being brushless, you can always change the motor to 4100KV which is about the same speed as the stock brushed motor but without the drag. Then you can find the right gear ration (the kit comes with couple of gears) and you want to get a proper radio to adjust this throttle linear feel. I would highly recommend the Noble NB4 radio because they work perfect for Mini-Z and are cheap! In this video I made in 12/2022, I have a MA030 for grip racing and it had the stock motor with is an 8500KV motor and its a fast motor for slow speed drift. kzread.info/dash/bejne/nX6ilpizXdOricY.htmlsi=tYezr07ZpmM4D33H
Enjoying all your great content! Thank you for the insight into the hobby!
@@rcstockum8154 Glad you’re enjoying my videos! You’re welcome and thank you for commenting.
Do you save & re-use the wheels when the tires are totally worn out?
@@popitn2nd Yes I re-use the wheels when tires are done. Always except when the wheels are wobbly. I don’t keep those.
Support your videos from HK fans
@@timtimng-jj3qn Thank you!
Great content! We need more! It's difficult to find this type of content.
Appreciate that, thank you!
Great video Tj! I was wondering I see your not running the hard case battery is there a reason you don’t run it? Thank you!
Hi Ethan, thank you! I started using these GNB's before the hard case were available. I haven't really looked at any other batteries only because the ones I'm using are working out for me.
Great video Tj! Thank you. What’s the benefit of the shock position?
Appreciated that Martin, thank you! Highest position: More body roll. Spring is more linear. Lowest position: Car drives more "flat". Spring is more progressive. The benefit is so that a driver can choose which settings he wants or set a car up depending on the track layout and traction of the track. For example, if the track has highspeed chicane and the traction is high, you want to try the lowest settings. This will make the car to transition in the chicane a lot quicker than it would in the high position. I use the high position because I prefer a car that rolls into the corners. A point and shoot driver would prefer the mid to low settings for that quick/snappy steering feel.
Great video!! Can you do a video on your setting for your NB4 for the RX28!! Thx in advance
Thank you for watching! I just checked my NB4 settings for my RX28 with 2500 motor (the car in the video) and the settings are generic. Steering: -EPA is the same for both left and right. Not the numbers are the same but the steering radius of the car on the track are even on both Left and Right. You will have to do this on the track. The numbers that I'll give you will not match with your car/radio. -Curve is 0. -SubTrim: I adjust it so that the car tracks straight. Throttle: -EPA is 100% -Curve (EXP) is 0 -Rate is 100 -SubTrim is 0. Brake: -EPA is 55 -Curve is 0 -Rate is 60 -SubTrim is 0 Everything else is default.
@@tjaymacRC Thanks again for the fast reply and great info
What’s your ride height specs for the back side?
Ride height is 1.9mm Front and Rear.
@@tjaymacRC how do make some adjustment for the rear? Do you have any video of it?
@@popitn2nd Start at 9.00 in the video link below: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q4trrdifgsXWYps.htmlsi=s4J8b5AwmACKoUGH
Thanks for sharing..! ❤
You're welcome Danny, thanks!
What double sided tape do you use to secure the esc and receiver in place? If you have a prefer brand you use pls share thanks!
This is what I'm using but it's not easy to remove on the chassis. If you remove your electronics often, you can put painters tape on the chassis first before sticking this Scotch brand double sided tape on the RX and/or ESC: a.co/d/01CGHSHa
Graeat video TJ I just finished my new 2500kv car and looking very much to racing it this weekend. I also have a new reflex car on the way as we just found out for sure that at the start of the new season for 2500 and 3500kv lipo classes the evo boards and the gl 1.2 esc’s will be outlawed for those 2 classes because they won’t do blinky mode. Evo boards will only be allowed in the 3500kv AAA class so upgrading now so I can get used to them.
Glad you liked the video, thank you! That’s an interesting rules you guys have there. Hopefully we can keep this rules simple so we’re not pushing anyone away from the 28th scale.
Update: I just went and cleaned the bearings in the RX28 G1. I thought they're ceramic bearings, they're not. The bearings are PN Dry steel shielded bearings in the front (4), lubed with Yutori 003. In the motor mount, those bearings (2) are Fast Eddies rubber shield removed and also lubed with Yutori. The RX28SE G2 has Reflex Racing OEM bearing set but flushed out grease and lubed with Yutori 003. Video about the Yutori 003 Lube: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qm1qxaeloKXbiZc.html
Hi! First of all, great videos, I took some ideas on setup watching it! I have a question looking at your rear tires, most of the videos they are almost slick, are you running like this? or do yo put the wheels in the tire truer before drive? Thanks! And sorry for my english hahaha
Hi, I appreciate that. Thank you and your English is perfectly fine. 👍 In this video, all of the cars had Marka 15° radials. The tire treads are gone from driving, not from cutting in the tire truer. I don’t cut my rear tires but if they’re slicks such as Marka 10° slicks, I would scuff the shiny layer on the tire with sandpaper. I use 400 grit.
A comparison between RX28 G2 and RX28SE G2 should be better, because both steel been sold.
Yeah, others can do that comparison. I sold all my RX28 G2’s.
I spy QteQ ball diff parts on the RX Gen 1 😊
QteQ diff hardware, Reflex Racing diff plates, Kyosho Ti shaft, Kyosho o-ring, PN ceramic diff balls and PN Spur. All that for my diff. lol
I have the 1st gen RX28 with the brass chassis. What parts do you suggest to stock up for this? What parts usually breaks or mostly needed for this car? Thanks!
I've stocked up on G1 parts when I bought 3 last year but my RX28 G1 with 2500KV motor has all original parts. I haven't had to replace anything yet. Although in my faster G1 cars, I've replaced some parts. If you are running the G1 with faster motor like 3500KV+, I would suggest to have extra: -Get a couple of those spring perch o-rings. -Get the Brass chassis for spare. Not needed if you run 2500KV only. -Get side links, the G2's if that's compatible.
@@tjaymacRC how about ball cups?
@@popitn2nd I’m still using the original ones. I also have spare of the G1 ball cups but I’ve never had to use it for any of my 3 G1’s. But like I said, I have some so maybe just keep a spare. They’re cheap anyway.
Awesome Video TJ. Thanks for your hard work. Great data.
Appreciate that Ciesco, thank you!!
Great video TJ! Really good example of good data collection and comparison. Removing as many variables from the testing, such as using the same motor, wheels/tires, and diff to get as accurate data as you can. It also shows how sensitive these cars are to climate conditions. 20f is a big difference, and your data backs that up.
Appreciate that Eugene and thank you for the feedback!
do you find that GL esc is the best for sensorless mode?
I’ve only tried these 3 ESC’s: HobbyWing Mini28 GL-SD-ESC-010T GL-BT-ESC-030 And only the GL-SD-ESC-010T works flawlessly with sensorless motors. The GL-BT… also works but there’s a throttle delay that not many notice, but I do.
@@tjaymacRC We're trying the Team Powers esc now, its 30 amp, its the same as PN. Not sure if you travel internationally to race but since Lipo Stock is blinky , esc is critical and they outlawed the old GL esc that people were using adding more static timing to it. cheaters gonna cheat! hopefully its a more level playing field.
No plans on competing anymore after last years PN Regionals. I just can't do 2+ days events anymore... Locally, we don't use ESC timing and our motor are spec motors: Rocket or NHX 2500KV (NHX is slower than Rocket) sensorless so most of the local drivers are running V1.2 or 010T. That said, the GL V1.2 and the GL ...010T to me looks the same, speed-wise. I don't see them having the advantage in speed anywhere on the track.
Good videos as always. I did recently change from an se chassis to the regular g2. My car got insanely light (to me)(167 w/battery, from 178). It took a while to get used to the handling as it felt so flighty. But once i slowed the controls down it felt good. Did my fastest lap with it. I can relate to the aggressive turning feel that you were referring to. And i feel the same way... it wants to be pushed. Otherwise, it will not feel good. Anyways, awesome video!
@@tjaymacRC ahh gotcha, its cool that you have a reliable track you can go to weekly with good competition. I live in Florida and pretty much have to travel to race competitively. trying to get a local scene with the decent racing every week here. Been a mission.
Thanks for sharing the video. Where can I buy the test cable?
Thanks! Its just a 3 prong Futaba plug (male) that I cut the housing off.
Thank you very much
I've noticed the stock diff slipping on my MR04 also. I haven't diagnosed this issue yet, but any solution for the stock diff that you've found?
Even after tightening the adjuster nut, it still slips. That’s correct. The slip is coming from the pressure plate spinning on the pressure plate holder. The fix I did is to put a dab of glue between the plate and plate holder. Just a little bit because you still need to remove that whenever you need to service and sand it down.
@@tjaymacRC Awesome, thank you! Same as we used to do for our pan cars back in the early 90's what's old is new 😄
Very nice & useful tool! You should get a round/circle cutter as well. Will be cleaner & rounder wheelarchs. ❤
I’m only using the curved scissors. Do you have the link for the round/circle cutter? I’d like to check that out. Right now after cutting it with curved scissors, I have dremel the edge out a bit and then manually sand it with sandpaper to smooth it out. If that circle cutters are faster to do, I’d use it. I like it more efficient. Thanks!
Alright! More body testing…?
Definitely don't plan on doing any body testing. I just needed a body asap and I found one that's available locally for less than $20. I just didn't realized that the body is actually pretty good. I'll share a video of the body after I try it in my Mod. I've only tried it in my 3500 car and its good at that speed and in this month's layout.
Thx for the info keep up on the great videos they help out a lot
I appreciate that! Thank you for your feedback. 👍👍
Thx for sharing!!
You're welcome! 👍
Good tip! Thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Amazing! Will be adding this soon hopefully. Thanks TJ for all your hard work!
Appreciated that, Ciesco! Thanks!
Awesome tool!
Hey great videos. I have a ? I have rx28 gen2 3500kv gonna run super stock class. Of what you can remember anything you would recommend on setup besides what you already posted? Thx in advance
Thank you. The car’s setup is constantly changing. Depending on the traction and track layout. Recently though I’ve started running the car at 1.9mm ride height in the front/rear and the front springs I’m using white/silver (soft). Center shock spring: Pink. Side springs: white/silver. I think that’s the recent change I have in my car that I’ve been using since 2024.
Can you give me the link to the plastic case with all the individual hardware bins please! I’ve been looking for something like this
Here you go: a.co/d/eJWf4Yr
I was looking for a portable light. The usual pit light i’ve seen at the track was a bit big and long. I like your portable light set up with a battery pack act as a stand. I’m gonna buy this set up but how did you magnetize the battery pack aren’t the case of it made of aluminum?
Thanks for reminding me about my light. I need to charge the power bank. Its been a month since the last time I charged it. lol I'm using the phone Metal Mount Plate that you stick in the back of your phone: a.co/d/6PdyXHB
Hi TJ, quick question for you. Are you using gl bt esc with rocket? How do you get it not to cog? Thanks for any tips you have Sir!
Hi Carmichael, I have the same problem with that ESC even when I tried the Rocket 2500KV v1 and v2. Both versions cogs with that BT ESC. Here's the unlisted video I did that shows the cogging... Sorry I don't have a fix for it. I went back to the non-BT model which is the GL-SD-ESC-010T since this ESC works with both sensor, sensorless or sensored motor without sensor wire plugged AND since this ESC has been problem free for me since January 2023 on 3 of my cars that I still use today. kzread.info/dash/bejne/Y5aKx6upoLvdYJc.html Oh yeah, just FYI. That BT version has throttle delay compared to the non-BT version. Some notices it, some doesn't. I'm one of those that can tell the delay: kzread.info/dash/bejne/aHiK1tWGmru-ZLw.html If you want to run that Rocket motor, use GL-SD-ESC-010T or the GL Racing GSC V1.2 ESC.
Thanks for the quick reply. Oh man... my 1.2 gl just died last night. Ugh ok will search for a 10t. Thanks again sir!
@@carmichaelt2762 You're welcome! I forgot to mention that the 10T is out of stock and discontinued. If you Google and find it in stock from GT55Racing, that is not true. They don't have it in stock anymore. Instead, when you buy it. They will message you and offer you the 030. Just want to give you heads up on that. You can also message them first if you want to check their stock. I found the 10T via posting want to buy on FB group page. You can do the same. Good luck!
Oh man. Good to know. The old bait and switch 😞 Thank you again 🙏