RX28 G1 vs RX28SE G2 | Comparing Lap Times w/ 2500KV motor

I made the series of this video from mid-May to mid-June 2024. Test were done in two different track layouts.
It took a long time doing this comparison between the RX28 G1 and RX28SE G2 with the 2500KV motor due to the weather change and me not testing the cars on the same day, prolonged this comparison. I know it's not the RX28 G2 plate but I also have the G2 plate and I also HAD a full RX28 G2 car brand new while I was doing this comparison test but after the Part 3 result, I sold both of my RX28 G1 with G2-plate as well as my new RX28 G2 and kept my RX28 G1, RX28SE G2's. I just personally prefer the brass plate, it feels (to me) easier to drive than the G2 plate. Here's the video I made when I converted my brass to steel plate: • Reflex Racing RX28 G1 ...
Before I made this video, I really thought that SE would be .10 seconds slower. I didn't expect it to be the same as the non-SE (but if you want to be technical with the numbers, the SE won this comparison on stock steel bearings with grease). Both cars are doing identical lap times. Both were consistent and doing same fast laps. So if you're trying to decide which car to buy for 2500 or 3500 class, you can't go wrong with the RX28 G2. Or if you're thinking of "upgrading" to the RX28 G2, there's no need. Your G1 is as fast. You just need to make sure that there is no binding in the frontend because the G1 is using plastic ball studs and the G2 is using aluminum. There is also the G2 upgrade kit for your G1 if you want to go that route.
If you plan to eventually get in the Mod class, definitely look into the SE because its versatile. You can use 2500, 3500 or Mod motor and its going to be a fast car in any class! Even in 2500KV class, this car is not slow. It is fast even if its 7 grams heavier than standard RX28. I have tried the non-SE G2 plate with GL 4500KV and 5500KV motor and it's hard to drive the car at that speed. This is why I don't use the RX28 non-SE car with any motor above 3500KV. Just 2500KV and 3500KV, but I'm sure someone can set it up in Mod and be fine with it. I just wasn't able to do that. I also like to build the SE better. To me the SE (G1 or G2) is a lot easier to put together for whatever reason. Maybe because there's more room to work on? Who knows... And you can also change the way the car drives by changing the shim in the lower pivot. Something that the non-SE doesn't have.
Note that the ceramic bearing in the RX28 G1 is over 1 year old (but still spins for a long time just like it did when it was new! Here's the video link: • Fast Eddies Ceramic Be... . The bearings in the RX28SE G2 are standard but they're brand new with grease (Reflex Racing stock bearing kit). I use the exact same Jomurema hard body with lexan roof and spoiler. I also use the same sets of GNB Green LiPos charged at 1.0 amp - LiPo Balance (not LiHV).
Sorry for the long video and thank you for watching!
Update: June 19, 2024
I just went and cleaned the bearings in the RX28 G1. I thought they're ceramic bearings, they're not. The bearings are PN Dry steel shielded bearings in the front (4), lubed with Yutori 003. In the motor mount, those bearings (2) are Fast Eddies rubber shield removed and also lubed with Yutori.
The RX28SE G2 has Reflex Racing OEM bearing set but flushed out grease and lubed with Yutori 003.
Video about the Yutori 003 Lube: • Spins like dry bearing...

Пікірлер: 25

  • @tjaymacRC
    @tjaymacRCАй бұрын

    Update: I just went and cleaned the bearings in the RX28 G1. I thought they're ceramic bearings, they're not. The bearings are PN Dry steel shielded bearings in the front (4), lubed with Yutori 003. In the motor mount, those bearings (2) are Fast Eddies rubber shield removed and also lubed with Yutori. The RX28SE G2 has Reflex Racing OEM bearing set but flushed out grease and lubed with Yutori 003. Video about the Yutori 003 Lube: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qm1qxaeloKXbiZc.html

  • @EMU1
    @EMU1Ай бұрын

    Great video TJ! Really good example of good data collection and comparison. Removing as many variables from the testing, such as using the same motor, wheels/tires, and diff to get as accurate data as you can. It also shows how sensitive these cars are to climate conditions. 20f is a big difference, and your data backs that up.

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    Appreciate that Eugene and thank you for the feedback!

  • @Indoboy269
    @Indoboy269Ай бұрын

    Awesome Video TJ. Thanks for your hard work. Great data.

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    Appreciate that Ciesco, thank you!!

  • @rickzfpv3118
    @rickzfpv3118Ай бұрын

    Graeat video TJ I just finished my new 2500kv car and looking very much to racing it this weekend. I also have a new reflex car on the way as we just found out for sure that at the start of the new season for 2500 and 3500kv lipo classes the evo boards and the gl 1.2 esc’s will be outlawed for those 2 classes because they won’t do blinky mode. Evo boards will only be allowed in the 3500kv AAA class so upgrading now so I can get used to them.

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    Glad you liked the video, thank you! That’s an interesting rules you guys have there. Hopefully we can keep this rules simple so we’re not pushing anyone away from the 28th scale.

  • @avpworks3350
    @avpworks3350Ай бұрын

    Hi! First of all, great videos, I took some ideas on setup watching it! I have a question looking at your rear tires, most of the videos they are almost slick, are you running like this? or do yo put the wheels in the tire truer before drive? Thanks! And sorry for my english hahaha

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    Hi, I appreciate that. Thank you and your English is perfectly fine. 👍 In this video, all of the cars had Marka 15° radials. The tire treads are gone from driving, not from cutting in the tire truer. I don’t cut my rear tires but if they’re slicks such as Marka 10° slicks, I would scuff the shiny layer on the tire with sandpaper. I use 400 grit.

  • @popitn2nd
    @popitn2ndАй бұрын

    I have the 1st gen RX28 with the brass chassis. What parts do you suggest to stock up for this? What parts usually breaks or mostly needed for this car? Thanks!

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    I've stocked up on G1 parts when I bought 3 last year but my RX28 G1 with 2500KV motor has all original parts. I haven't had to replace anything yet. Although in my faster G1 cars, I've replaced some parts. If you are running the G1 with faster motor like 3500KV+, I would suggest to have extra: -Get a couple of those spring perch o-rings. -Get the Brass chassis for spare. Not needed if you run 2500KV only. -Get side links, the G2's if that's compatible.

  • @popitn2nd

    @popitn2nd

    Ай бұрын

    @@tjaymacRC how about ball cups?

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    @@popitn2nd I’m still using the original ones. I also have spare of the G1 ball cups but I’ve never had to use it for any of my 3 G1’s. But like I said, I have some so maybe just keep a spare. They’re cheap anyway.

  • @gotmesom
    @gotmesomАй бұрын

    do you find that GL esc is the best for sensorless mode?

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    I’ve only tried these 3 ESC’s: HobbyWing Mini28 GL-SD-ESC-010T GL-BT-ESC-030 And only the GL-SD-ESC-010T works flawlessly with sensorless motors. The GL-BT… also works but there’s a throttle delay that not many notice, but I do.

  • @gotmesom

    @gotmesom

    Ай бұрын

    @@tjaymacRC We're trying the Team Powers esc now, its 30 amp, its the same as PN. Not sure if you travel internationally to race but since Lipo Stock is blinky , esc is critical and they outlawed the old GL esc that people were using adding more static timing to it. cheaters gonna cheat! hopefully its a more level playing field.

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    No plans on competing anymore after last years PN Regionals. I just can't do 2+ days events anymore... Locally, we don't use ESC timing and our motor are spec motors: Rocket or NHX 2500KV (NHX is slower than Rocket) sensorless so most of the local drivers are running V1.2 or 010T. That said, the GL V1.2 and the GL ...010T to me looks the same, speed-wise. I don't see them having the advantage in speed anywhere on the track.

  • @carmichaelt2762

    @carmichaelt2762

    Ай бұрын

    Good videos as always. I did recently change from an se chassis to the regular g2. My car got insanely light (to me)(167 w/battery, from 178). It took a while to get used to the handling as it felt so flighty. But once i slowed the controls down it felt good. Did my fastest lap with it. I can relate to the aggressive turning feel that you were referring to. And i feel the same way... it wants to be pushed. Otherwise, it will not feel good. Anyways, awesome video!

  • @gotmesom

    @gotmesom

    Ай бұрын

    @@tjaymacRC ahh gotcha, its cool that you have a reliable track you can go to weekly with good competition. I live in Florida and pretty much have to travel to race competitively. trying to get a local scene with the decent racing every week here. Been a mission.

  • @rcfernando11
    @rcfernando11Ай бұрын

    A comparison between RX28 G2 and RX28SE G2 should be better, because both steel been sold.

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    Yeah, others can do that comparison. I sold all my RX28 G2’s.

  • @marwanzabaneh5459
    @marwanzabaneh5459Ай бұрын

    I spy QteQ ball diff parts on the RX Gen 1 😊

  • @tjaymacRC

    @tjaymacRC

    Ай бұрын

    QteQ diff hardware, Reflex Racing diff plates, Kyosho Ti shaft, Kyosho o-ring, PN ceramic diff balls and PN Spur. All that for my diff. lol