ClassicsAB is dedicated to working on & checking out classic cars & trucks (primarily 1950s to early 2000s) with maybe few modern cars thrown in from time to time. Please follow along as myself and friends build some of our own projects vehicles, feature other cool classics & even check out some car shows along the way. I aim to show that any one can get out and wrench on a classic, and make their car or truck just a little bit better regardless of your skill level. I am literally a guy wrenching in his backyard shop, if I can do it, any one can!
1966 C10 "Bandit" | 1967 Camaro "Ruby" | 1968 Impala "Old Blue" | 2006 Silverado "MAX" | +Junk Rides
**I am not a professional, do what I do at your own risk** Please be safe!
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Argyle, TX 76226
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I think it came out great. I would go over those sponge spots with a really fine Scotch Brite. I think what looks unnatural is when you have two conflicting sheens. Also adding some different sizes of media into your coffee grounds will add to the randomness of the overall effect.
Thanks man!
I build models for fun. Used a similar technique but you spray water down then sprinkle salt.
I used to do something similar with rock salt to battle distress paint nerf guns back in the day lol. It's what gave me the idea to put a medium down to remove. Works better on something small like a model, but you can also use mustard, paint over it when it dries and then flake it off. Thanks for watching.
what kind of rims you have??
They are 22x9 GM Transport Wheels
Great result I'm just doing something similar to my 73 stepside
Hells ya man, I hope to get my own round eye square stepside one day.
@@CLASSICSAREBETTER 👍Here in europe they're quite expensive . I've paid around 5k but with a completely new rebuild 7.4 (Bill about 4700 euros) Good frame . Not too much rust ,but lots of bodywork . Many missing engine parts ,messed up electric . Still a very good deal :)
On an 02 that left rear bolt is hard to reach when working from up top. I had helper round off the bolt while I was in process of moving the front driveshaft out of the way. The ujoint was stuck in the yoke and I was in proces sof freeing up when he thought he could put a 12 sided wrench on it when I said only 6 sided and round it be.. now I can reach it and could have taken it out.. we do not need heads so about to cut that bolt off.. but will try some bolt extractors sockets I have 1st in morning.. this whole design is not mechanic friendly, having to pull pulley off PS pump to access bolts, putting that accumulator on the AC lines on top of compressor blocking bolts to bracket, and tucking motor under when it could have been forward a few inches allowing us to reach those ground cables and other electrical at rear of engine.. think will pull intake off before yank out as replacement motor had its manifold cracked by salvage yard and we cannot risk damaging in process... Older SBC were so much easier to work on...
Dude you are preaching to the choir on placement, they should make some of these engineers wrench on this stuff so they see how ridiculous it is to spend 30min removing parts for a 3min job on something simple! I wish you luck on getting that bolt out, I have used a reverse drill bit with a 90 degree drill adapter to remove them before, it's a whole bunch of not fun!!
Awesome truck nothing else than a Chevy❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you for watching!
Hey brother just btw I think 13/16 is closer to 21mm. Great helpful video !!
Nice catch! Thank you for watching!
Qué hiciste hombre!!! Estaba mucho mejor antes!!!
Didn't mind how crazy it looked before either, but I just didn't like all the bondo showing in the doors etc. Thank you for watching though!
GREAT JOB! Thanks for the inspiration!
Thank you!
Sweet this video made me realize I can maybe fix my bondo and undercoat that’s white and now it looks like bird poop on my car so prob gonna spray some colors down now
Awesome, just make sure to use a primer or one of those paint&primer paints on the bondo part first so it all sticks. Just paint will flake off bondo after awhile. Good luck!
Good looking truck man, I daily drive my great grandad's 66. Stil has the 250 and 3 on the tree. I think it just makes people mad since i only drive it 50-55. Its a truck from a by gone era thats for sure.
Thank you, and that's awesome. Cool that you can keep it on the road, I would leave that 250 in there long as you can!
What did you do to restore the trailer's lights and brakes or did it not have any brakes?
So on the truck I had when I shot this video the electric on the truck's hitch didn't work so didn't matter. Since then I have checked the brakes and bearings which were good, but I need to replace the light wiring, it only works 80% of the time lol.
Looks bad Ass!! Awesome tutorial
Thank you!
1979 cutluss nobody will help how bad can I mess it up
Just put the new one on the same way the old one is routed and you should be good, best of luck!
Is there a simplified wiring harness????
I used this harness from ebay, under a $100 and the guy's shop has like 14k reviews with a 98% rating (I have no relation to them). Worked great for me so far, just make sure you order the correct color plugs for your cpu (red, green, blue, etc). www.ebay.com/itm/265043306821?itmmeta=01HXJRSZR2VDFGY6C1BS6PYNRD&hash=item3db5cfe945:g:W6gAAOSwOPhgIDV5&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAKFqSfar0YijCIZKWelGdo3wtT1c1rerWe58S%2BLhUW6wZWoxAuncHJzzY7nKtNqXMX%2BC2kOZthQoNmJg8c%2FLHcQzSvfjKwA8QHL7oWqQg6aZgiErxZpFRIWB3s2oe8aDKH3Dwa%2F0pjOcmXPnds4nfmVGUqANSVQ2dHr78ac1GPluoyfR%2FZYzKJFZTfhlMh5s9Wp2n%2FZ9ZncYM93DPymDjyXu1phhkcUIIA6soiJ5cxbA6KM%2BA6bNmqfDoTSqmwh%2FdB3KdyskGtan69ftaKFQDFKSXOIOTiqIr9rqx98CKdplwAGioO8hxfqf8MAQJ6U24ILh6GdVNODIl7kYWgm6x9o%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMjvzn2Oxj
What radiator did you used, and did you use a another differencial or did you keep the original from the 66
I used a Champions Radiator from Jegs. As I dug into it I found out my truck is a bit of a Frankenstein, my diff is from a 71 c10 w/ 3.73 gears. Thank you for watching!
Doing a light build on my old 04 escalade winter beater. The manifolds have never been touched. While doing a deep cleaning under the hood I noticed the head is missing on the driverside closet to the firewall. I made the responsible decision and ordered a set of long tubes and new ARP stainless hardware. Ive been soaking the hardware for a couple weeks now mainly procrastinating the job. Im hoping there is enough stud hanging out of the head to weld a nut on. Worse comes to worse it'll give me an excuse to pull the heads for some 243s, upgrade the rockers and slide in a very streetable cam.
Hells ya man, when stuff breaks always wise to replace with something spicer if you can! Best of luck on your project. Those old Escalades are beasts.
Did you go through the hubs and breaks?
I have since I shot this video, luckily everything was in decent shape. Thank you for watching.
Thank you very much for making this.
2002 sierra dome light not working, what would the fuse location be?
The dome light fuse should be under the hood in the main fuse box, kinda near the center bottom, look at the little diagram on the lid, I believe its the one marked CTSY, check there and see if your fuse has blown. Good luck on your project, thank you for watching!
Thank you . am looking into this for my 55 f 100 . when time allows.
Very cool! Just make sure you put it on really thin, a little goes a long way, most complaints are ppl that put it on way too thick. Best of luck!!!!
1999 suburbans were prior generation.
Good catch, guess they didn't switch till 00.
On my 02 2500HD my oil cooler lines looked like they had seen better days so when I dropped my oil pan to fix the pickup tube seal which I had to drop the front diff for anyway I decided to replace those lines while I'm at it. Bought the doorman lines. Within a month the high pressure line managed to get stuck into my power steering pulley pissed out all my oil and since of course I was going up a hill on a part of the interstate going through a mountain pass with no shoulder, by the time I was able to stop the engine was toast. Don't know if its a crappy design of the oil cooler lines or I just got unlucky with a part that shouldn't of passed QC because I swear the hard line was longer on the factory lines to where the rubber part couldn't end up in the power steering pump. Not saying don't replace them, but make sure its impossible for that soft part to hit a moving part. I thought bolting the bolt at the front of the engine would prevent that but got a nasty surprise and I don't want anyone else to go through the same misery I did.
Wow that sounds like no fun at all! Never thought about them walking over to a pully if they weren't secured well. If I ever have to do it again, I think id just make my own lines outta high pressure hose and that way I could put them wherever I wanted. Thank you for watching!
When I get that truck running again I'm definitely planning on making my own lines and switching to an auxillary oil cooler if I can find a spot to fit it since i have the auxillary trans cooler option. Since I did the efan swap if I can ensure the accessory drive can't get to it it should be good. Don't know how I'd add hardline to the block but I figure i can probably add some metal braid to armor it and in the event that happened again I feel like the metal on metal would make noise to give me some indication. but on the bright side I got the motor to turnover yesterday and so far looking at the guts of it, it actually doesn't look that bad considering the failure it endured and the 275k miles. This platform is by far the most dependable I have ever worked with, but I come from working on 55-59 chevy trucks lol
Looks amazing!
Thank you!
Could you also use a wire wheel and drill for them? I don’t have all the elbow grease lol
You could probably use a drill if you keep it on low, I'd test an area first, make sure its a super fine 0000 grade steel wool wheel. Good luck!
SAVED ME AN ADDITIONAL $200 FOR INSTALLMENT. THANKS
Oh boy that Texas heat is something else
Oh yea, looking to get me a 8-10ft ceiling fan this summer, I am not looking forward to the 109 degree shop days this year lol.
You know what would be funny would be to create a replica of Trevor's truck from GTA V
Ha hadn't thought of that, would definitely work!
@@CLASSICSAREBETTER I had an old black BMW, it was falling apart a bit so for a laugh I put some badges and a chrome decal to make it into the GTA version, the Ubermacht Sentinel. I've just got another old BMW, once it starts to need replacements I would definitely think about doing that again. Although that said, in the two years I drove it like that I had one guy taking a picture, and it could just be I'd pissed him off Still it was good fun to do, and nice to have something unique
Hi, just picked me up a classic Silverado 07 with the steering wheel not centering correctly to the wheels, could I take the steering wheel of and just align it that way or is there something that forces it to go in a specific way?
You should be able to straighten your wheels then remove the steering wheel and reattach it straight/centered to match if that's what your asking. Good luck, congrats on the "new" Silverado!
As an EE and ME I do not see any use in that "loosen then tighten" thingy. If it turns while taking it out, it will turn all the way out without breaking. They break on the 1st turn when they do break..
Good to know going fwd, thank you for watching!
PATINA PEBBLES this is the innovation I was looking for
Heck ya, I hope it helps! Thank you for watching!
Nice work 👍👍
Thank you!
Great video! I just did mine this past week. Exactly the same as you showed, except I had no washer behind the hub nut? Mine is a 99, and the hubs have been replaced before. What are the odds that the last installer left the washers off?
So I haven't specifically worked on a 99 to know for sure, but I would guess they had just left the washer off when getting it together.
@@CLASSICSAREBETTERoh boy. Nothing available at rockauto, so I’ll have to make do with my local parts place to get a couple. Old stuff fun stuff
putting a caddy wheel in my tahoe, thanks man! this helped a lot
I have thought of doing the exact same thing in my silverado lol, thank you for watching, best of luck!
I want to do this to my truck but in the future I want to repaint will the oil keep the paint from sticking
You would have to make sure that you have washed the truck really good with degreaser during your paint prep beforehand. Paint wont stick to the oil, but you should be able to get it off the truck as it will wash off over time.
@CLASSICSAREBETTER ok, thank you I been wondering
I love. Great job. Great year for Chevy trucks. So kool. Thanx much
Thank you!
You gave me great ideas Please please. What color did you use ? What paint ? Would rust oleum work ?? I like that color. Thanx so much.
The "patina" layers were just rustoleum rattle cans (black & red oxide), the green is Chevy 503 Light Green. Thank you for watching!
Clear it !!
Trying to think of a door mural for it, then I will probably satin clear it. Thank you for watching.
💯💯💯💯💯
Thanks!
Did you base coat the initial level on the top all black before you sprayed the rust color?
So I was using a black primer/paint, mostly used it to focus on covering the bondo and bright yellow old paint areas, that way if I burned thru it wouldn't be so blatant. Main thing is to get your "rust" color spread everywhere and make sure to get it thick in the areas your going to sand on. Start on your tailgate or something to practice and you'll find your "look" quick. Good luck!
@@CLASSICSAREBETTER Thank You!!
About to do my second gen ram like this!! Looks awesome Sir
Heck ya, I love those old Rams, best of luck!
Excellent video!
Thanks buddy!!
Technique is excellent, but I must admit, it looked fantastic before. Personally I would have left it as it was.
Thank you! Honestly I liked how crazy it looked before as well, but the bondo showing was killing me inside lol. Thank you for watching!
Little trick for easier wheel removal. Take the nut off 75% like he says, sit in the seat, put both feet up against floor pan, pull as hard as you can while wiggling the wheel. Pops off instantly Again, make sure you don’t take that nut off completely otherwise you’ll be replacing teeth.
Yep, definitely keep the nut on there before you go ape on it, or your face is gonna have a bad day lol 😂
Made my truck kinda sticky and dirt stick really well didn’t apply to much
Sorry to hear that, honestly it was probably still too much, the stuff goes a long way, you want it extremely thin. You could wash the dirt off with just water (no soap), may knock down the tackiness a bit. It is oil, it will always be slightly tacky but should mostly dry after a few days, the advantage is it's cheap and temporary vs the wipe on clear coats that dry hard, but are hard to undo. Best of luck on your truck!
slick process
Thanks man!
great video. how did you vent the tank?
Thank you! The tank has a small vent line out on top of it, I just stuck a small filter on the end of it to keep dirt dobbers out.
I have a 2002 suburban. My switch doesn't have an AUTO marking on it. Yours has AUTO on it. How many pins does yours have on the plug and will the 06 fit an 02?
I am not sure off the top of my head, next time I tear into I will let you know. You could look up your suburbans specific dimmer switch on amazon or LMC Truck.
Comment......It may not be the resistor it may just be the pig tail flat plug check it to see if it is melted.
That is a good point, resistor doesn't matter if your wiring is melty or grounding out. Thank you for watching!
@@CLASSICSAREBETTER yep my#5 went out and it was just wire were I had connected/spliced the wires from a previous pig tail replacement. I replaced that section of wire and was good to go.
Hey what about if I have it on a running truck? Do you think the heat from me driving it will help the bolts come out easier?
It may help a bit, but when you heat the whole motor the block expands with the bolts too. Best bet is to try the tighten loosen approach first if possible. Best of luck, be safe, working on hot exhaust is not super fun.
@@CLASSICSAREBETTER ok thank you bro!!