Foothill Paint and Fabrication
Foothill Paint and Fabrication
Welcome to Foothill Paint and Fabrication. My name is Mark and I am here to help you with autobody, paint and fabrication plus so much more!
This channel just isn't about cars and trucks, I will be doing custom modifications, metal art, welding, engine work, patch panels, painting tips and tricks, tool selection and use, auto interior design and modifications and so much more. On top of that I will be featuring my 1967 Pontiac GTO on a series of videos as we do a full Resto Mod on my dream car.
If this sounds good to you hit that SUBSCRIBE button and leave me a message in the comments!
- About Me -
I am a do it yourselfer with over 35 years painting cars as a hobby with many of the cars and trucks winning trophies at shows. I learned in my garage or driveway like most of you by trying and I am happy to pass what I have learned on to you.
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I have a 1965 El Camino, my repop Dash Bezel does not have a fan switch notch on the bottom left of the radio . for a fan switch, whats the best way to cut one in ?
Hi Gary. I am not sure what area you are speaking of. Is it the Heater control panel? If so I thought all the repops had that area cut out. If you give me more details I might be able to help. Mark
Nice im hopong to purchase a rotisserie when i get further along mark moving way faster than me but ill get there
Thanks Chris. Start searching Craigslist and FB Marketplace, you just might luck out. I was going to buy one but shipping was ridiculously expensive so I built one instead. Working on Ruby on the Rotisserie is a lot easier.
Mark, I think the centerline of your rotisserie may be a bit above the center of gravity of your car body, but otherwise, looks great!
Thanks Ralph. Yeah I had her a little bottom heavy since I was working alone. Got the car set a little better on the centerline weight wise and it rotates a lot easier. A tiny bit top heavy but nothing I can't control.
Fantastic awesome job beautiful chevy
Thanks Ricky, it really came out nice and the owner loves it. He tries to drive it to work once a week.
You are the best I have done these trucks for 35 years I am building a 47 chevy panel truck now little slow here 100degree Temps now but I love building them thanks for all your tips and experiences you are great Ricky in Smyrna Tennessee
Thanks Ricky. A hundred in Tennessee? Yikes it must be miserable there. 106 here today but low humidity. Send me some pics of your project and I will showcase them at the end of a video. I have two other subscribers building panels right now. Mark
Wish you were in Georgia
Pretty far from Georgia. It is pretty good workout for sure.
Oh yea I’m just slowly working on it it’s hot out there
Great job on the rotisserie! I'm not doing a frame off on mine, but that sure would be nice if I did. I guess you're like me. I keep running into things that take me away from working on the car, but I have to have to proceed. The other problem I'm running into is, I'll turn 71 tomorrow and I have a hard time buying tools I'll most likely only use one time.
Happy Birthday Ron ! Maybe you will get tools for your birthday. I just started a kitchen remodel at my sisters plus tons of other things going on but I put in as much time as possible on Ruby. You can't take it with you so you might as well enjoy it now right? Get the tools that make your life easier and the project more enjoyable. You have earned that right and you can always sell them later. How is your project going?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thank you Mark. 71 years young LOL. I'll be taking my motor in next week for a break-in on the dyno and then it will go back in the car. I have the front clip off right now. I plan to put the motor and trans back in and then square away everything in the engine bay, before I put the fenders and hood back on. Then I will start the body and paint work.
@@user-fk5dl6cs3q Sounds like a good plan. What condition is the body in?
@@user-fk5dl6cs3q Sounds like a good plan. What condition is the body in?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I think it was a California, car with very little rust, just a bit in the lower front fenders and a bit in the trunk, usual places. I do have to reskin the passenger door. Don't know what happened, but it has some pretty thick bondo it.
Awesome to see the rotiss at work! Watched the video when you built it and thought it was very professional. I sent you an email with pics on the wooden rotiss I built for my 37 Chevy Coupe.
Just checked out the pics Don, you are right it looks a little sketchy but well built. Great solution and it looks like it worked out awesome! Taking the 37 for a drive mid build must have gotten your enthusiasm up for the project. I will make sure to feature your pics at the end of a video soon. Thanks
Looks great Mark.
Thanks Dave. Been a long time to get to this point.
I've never even seen a rotisserie in person, much less used one. This looks as good as or probably better than "store bought". Question: This setup looks bottom heavy. Should the vertical center of gravity be in line with the pivots or would that be a bad thing?
Thanks. It feels bottom heavy so I will be adjusting the attachment brackets to get the weight more centered. I kind a guessed on the safe side so it couldn't get away from me. Learning as I go on this one.
Nice!
Thanks, it ended up to be pretty fast.
Excellent Mark! Love it when a plan comes together. Your workmanship on the rotisserie is excellent. My frame rotisserie was such a labor saving device. I’m convinced that it improved the restoration of my frame. Always at a comfortable working height and I never worried about it falling on me. I emailed you some photos of the ‘49 a while ago. Let me know if they didn’t show up. Bo will likely have my body done by mid July. Ruby looks great!
Thanks Robert. I am definitely looking forward to working standing up that is for sure. I can't wait to see how the body comes out of the tank. I bet it will be beautiful. I am pretty sure I got the pics and dropped them in your project folder. I haven't has a chance to do a subscribers projects at the end of a video but hoping to get one out soon.
Can I ask Why you made your own Rottiserie ? Thanks
Sure Trav. I had found one on Craigs List for 500 bucks but by the time I reached the guy it was sold. Looked at commercially manufactured units but the shipping was more than I spent on building my own so I went ahead and built it. I did a video on it, fun project too.
I would never have been able to tell the rotisserie was homemade! I was lucky enough to rented one for the panel truck. Imagine rotating that top heavy thing. I was able to set it up so I could do it by myself. I think that rotisserie had a place to insert a bar to add leverage. A rotisserie is a game changer for sure.
That must have been a little scary the first time you rotated that monster. Just reaching the center of the top on that thing would make it worth every penny. I am looking forward to the ease of work ahead of me that is for sure.
That's really awesome Mark! Pretty exciting for you and make working on it a breeze!
Thanks Doug, that is the plan. The days of laying on my back working overhead should be gone for good. I am not a kid anymore and this will make it so much more enjoyable.
Nice work Mark. I have never used my rotisserie either. Thanks for the info. It scares me a little. Thank you for your time.
Thanks. I want pics when you do. I need to work out the balance so it is easier to rotate but I fudged heavy on the bottom on my first try by myself. A little tweaking and it should be good to go.
Outstanding job! Let me know when you need a hand I will be right there.
Thanks Dave. I am going to rebalance then let you know. I made it bottom heavy so it wouldn't get away from me without help.
Catalytic converter or as it’s better known the meth head ATM
Great job , i just wish you could convert the 1947-51 door handles to the 1952+ push button open .
I have never seen that attempted. The latch and everything would need to be switched over I would think.
When you are going to weld something by MIG or Stick on your vehicle , DON'T FORGOT TO DISCONNECT YOUR CAR BATTERY!!
I did for sure plus had the ground clamp pretty close to the weld area to make sure there was no stray current. Thanks
Would you sell the brackets you made to relocate the blower? I can fit and weld them Also what is the sure fit kit a gen4?
Hi Charles. If I had time I would make one up for you. What is your schedule? It looks like most of the sure fit kits are now Gen 5 but there are some that are still Gen 4 but they are more unique applications.
Always enjoy when the Chevelle is on the channel!!!
Nice change of pace for sure. John wants it painted red but I am busy with Ruby and he needs to save lots of 💰
Really enjoyed the video - very instructive. I may try the same. One question, if you're still checking this thread. Why didn't you prime before color? I would be curious if that will really protect against rust. Best of luck with the GTO.
Thanks. On hot rolled steel the scale is pretty tough so to do it technically correct all the parts should be blasted then etching primer then color. On a job like this spraying color right over the bare steel works well. Been sitting out all winter with no problems.
Like to see people put the time and effort in finessing parts to fit . New to original is not that easy . Great Job .
Thanks Michael. Some repops are better than others but they all require work for sure.
Hi Mark, nice to see the 65 again. I plan on using efi on my El Camino. Thanks for including the “stumbling blocks” in the video. Great job as usual.
Thanks Steve. If any trouble comes up on the system I will let you know.
Nice work Mark. I'm a carburetor guy but I see the beauty of fuel injection for a street car or daily driver. I like how they say plug and play like there is nothing else to do. Thank you for your time.
Thanks. I know a few carb guys that scoff at fuel injection but they sure like it on their daily driver. This system is supposed to be able to go up to about 950 hp with bigger injectors.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I have nothing against EFI. Other than my 67 Cadillac hearse and my 53 race truck all my vehicles are fuel injected.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 Hearse? Do you have a side job I don't know about???
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication About 30 years ago I was building an addition on a nursing home and the engine blew up in my work truck. I bought the hearse for $500 to use as a work truck while I rebuilt the engine. It's roomy. I fell in love with it and couldn't let it go. The director of the nursing home was not impressed and made me use the back gate. I load it up with zombies on Halloween and hit the haunted houses.
@@lazyhoundracing9621 That is awesome!
I am planning on getting an aftermarket TBI for the panel truck. After seeing the hassle you went through with the return line I (hopefully) am glad I retrofitted my existing gas tank with an in tank electric pump from Speedway Motors. I'll want to use the braided steel lines so thanks for sharing how to fabricate them. Is that a kit you purchased to make them up? Another excellent video Mark. Thanks
Thanks Does your in tank pump have a built in regulator to bleed off the extra pressure? Yes we got a kit from Amazon with 6an hose and fittings. If you are planning on running pump gas then there are a ton of options on there with hose and fittings. Here are two links: a.co/d/6fqsGNe a.co/d/84Emqap Throttle body units are a lot less expensive and less work with some nice benefits.
No it doesn't. That's my next step to get a regulator (once I have a permanent fender panel to put it on). Thanks so much for the link! I put the black braided hose kit on my Amazon wish list.
@@BusyAsABeaver72 Ah those pesky details... Getting a good cut without fraying the braid is the tricky part. I walk the cut off wheel around the hose kind of like a pipe cutter so the wheel cuts down into the braid through the black tape.
This is a life saver!!! Thank you for posting this video!!
You are very welcome Michael. I hope I was of some help to you. Mark
Nice information ill have to check on that product thanks again
Thanks Chris, several out there that are similar. If you didn't see it I did a video on DTM and Epoxy and what to look for Mark
Hi Mark, thanks for taking the time to do a video! I have a 1956 ford 600. I parked it this past winter in the drive way ,covered up real good. I went to move it and it had the same problem as yours . I followed you video and gave it a try. I pulled my from the back in reverse several time about ten feet. No Luck.(car was blocking the front end) So I started the tractor, thinking, if ti warmed up that would help. Tried a few more times, but no luck. Then I put the tractor in 4th gear and pulled once! (about 5 feet) Bam , it broke loose!! I drove the tractor around and the clutch is working fine. I live in ohio am our winter was not bad, and it only sat for about 4 month. Oh and I did clamp the clutch down/engaged. I wounder if it would be a good idea to clamp the clutch peddle down when it is going to sit for some time? Thanks again!! Jeff
Hi Jeff, I think rust is the culprit on the sticking. Clamping the peddle down would keep it from sticking but I would worry about the clutch spring getting weak. Did water get in there?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication No I have it covered up with a good car cover with a good tarp under that. But I guess moister can get in somehow!! You rather than block the clutch I'll just move it eves so often.! But maybe some day I may put a clutch kit in. I watched a few vidios and it does not look too bad to do. Jeff
@@jeffsheridan1635 Interesting you had it covered and not that long sitting really and it stuck. Maybe the moisture got trapped under the cover and condensed in the bell housing. I have split a couple of Ford's in two and did the clutch. Not rocket science but it takes some planning An engine hoist help a lot to hold one side up.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Hey mark, yea I had moving blankets over most of the tractor and a good heavy black tarp, then a good auto outdoor cover. But i guess moister can find it way in. So I"m going to rock it back and forth every so often with the clutch in!! I did just pick up a engine hoist. So when time comes to split the tractor I'll be ready!!! Jeff
Best video by far!
Thanks, I really appreciate that. Can't wait to put it to use.
Amazing attention to detail. I can’t do any of this work but enjoy watching someone who can.
Thank you Darren. Pretty good car show today. Some nice 3100 and one 3600 were there.
Wow great job. Are you willing to share the dimensions you used to get there. I’m trying to install the same master on my 68 GTO.
Sure, no problem. Email me at [email protected] and I try and send you a couple of pictures with dimensions
I agree his attention to the little things is crazy but i know ruby going to be super sexxy when done
Awesome build. I’ve watched several other videos and this is the best one I’ve seen.
Thank you Ralph, I really appreciate the compliment. Are planning on building one?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Yes. A bit smaller for a 47-54 cab, thinking of using two engine stands.
@@ralphanderson2006 Sounds like a good idea. Perhaps an engine stand with the gear drive rotator would work well on one side.
Very nice Mark. That kind of stuff drives me nuts also.
Thanks, If you don't fix it then it becomes the gift that keeps on giving. It should make blocking out a lot easier too.
Hey Mark Nice mapping out what needs to be done and determining how to accomplish those modifications. And great explanations of that. I’ve learned to always read the comments on KZread videos. There is always a lot of useful information from the commenters and your replies. I like the small guard on the cutter/grinder…. Did you modify your the q stock one or make that? Thanks
Hey Jack, how is it going? Your must have missed the video when I showed off my grinder guard. I didn't have it on for the longest time and kept getting grief from viewers and notches in my fingers so cut the guard down so it was not in the way but gave me some protection. Works pretty good. Good to hear from you.
Have you considered silicon bronze on the edge? The melting point is lower than steel, it can be built up in layers and shaped with files and by sanding. Most important, it won't crack like plastic filler on an edge.
Yes I have. That is what I used when I tig brazed the top and bottom. More heat than lead but way less than mig or tig steel build up Not sure which way I will go yet but thanks for the great suggestion.
Mark, I am so glad I found you! I have a ‘54 five window 3100 and the hood and doors had me at a standstill. You have given me new confidence. I would like to thank you for the detail to attention and tips like ‘don’t use a screwdriver and slip and scratch your new paint’ and ‘…get help to mount the hood’… I appreciate your advice. Thanks again and teaching GREAT JOB!
You are very welcome , I am glad I was of some help to you. Lots of tips and tricks in the whole truck series so check them out Mark
I'm glad you filmed that and showed your process. I learned a lot there!
Thanks Doug. Fixing mistakes is all part of the process. I wanted to make sure I show everything.
Thanks for all the great videos on project Ruby. You are inspiring me to never stop at the first time I start to think "that's good enough" on my '69 GTO metal work. I had a question about the end of the video where you said the small section right on the quarter panel edge near the top of the door will definitely need some filler. Maybe I will just have to wait until that future video, but will you use one of the specialty "metal" or "fiber" augmented fillers right on that edge subject to some bumps or rubbing; or will regular old polyester-based filler be adequate?
Thanks John. The more metal work we do upfront the less filler work we do later...hopefully. These things simply cannot be remedied with filler anyways. Not sure what I will use on that edge and the little low spot that showed up when I drove the edge down but it will not be lightweight filler. I might lead it in or use metal reinforced body filler. How is your project coming along?
That was satisfying to watch Mark. Your attention to detail is impressive! Certainly motivates me to do the best I can on “Pops”. I’m sending over some photos this morning. Thanks for these videos.
Thanks Robert, I will keep an eye out for them. Stepping away for a nit when you start making deals with yourself that it is good enough always works for me. A lot of times I walk back up to the panel later and see how to make it better and it happens quickly.
Fantastic how-to. I get the intention to cure the slightest issues you see. There are things about my Chevelle’s bodywork that annoy me.
Hey Charlie, I have done a lot of cars and I know how you feel. Chevelle's have a lot of the same issues the GTO's do. I really want to take my time and do my best on Ruby.
I'm glad that you decided to make a video of correcting the quarter panel alignment. I enjoy watching this kind work and definitely learned something too. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Todd, it needed to be done and I don't want to hide my mistakes from you guys. I am trying to keep the channel real so others know what they are getting themselves into when they start a build.
This is extremely paying attention to detail this is what you want in the shop that you want your car to be done at,if you find a shop that goes to this effort pay them it will come back 10x in your investment.
Thank you for the wonderful comment, I appreciate it. Luckily I am not charging myself otherwise Ruby would be a 200K car when I am done.
Loved watching these ‘50 Chevy videos! I’m building a 54. Might you recommend an adhesive to attach the outer door window molding? Never really glued metal together in this way. Thanks
Hi and thank you. I didn't actually install the moldings the owner did so I will ask him to chime in here and let you know how he went about it. I think they are held in with clips. Darren should be able to answer all your questions on that though.
The window molding does not glue in. It is a tight fit with a couple screws that sit behind the window channel.
It’s a very tight fit. The entire time I was concerned I would bend the frame or scratch the paint while installing. The frame needs to be slightly compressed or folded in from the top to fit it into door opening.
Darren, Thank a bunch. I know what you mean by tight fit. I’m able to manipulate it it there but it doesn’t sit tight and flush all around unless I squeeze it in two spots with my hands, with screws installed. Only asking because it appears my other door has some light adhesive around the mating surfaces. I guess I’ll look for a bonding agent and clamp it. I thought of you guys for the way you handled the hood! Never thought to do that. Now I have another task added to my list. Thanks guys!
Good luck with that. Were the frames bent when originally removed? Are they original or reproductions?
Really enjoyed this video Mark. Super satisfying to watch you solve these problems. Ruby is going to be beautiful! Put the engine in the ‘49 today. Once I clean up the shop I’ll take some photos and send them over.
Thanks Robert, feels good to get some of this stuff behind me. Yes please get me pics when you can. I can't wait to see them. Well done!
How is it that the shop is so empty?
Good question. Everything is on wheels so I can roll it outside. The shop is small and does triple duty for fabrication, body work and a paint booth. Makes it easy to clean too 😁