I'm Scott Walker (Walks) and this is Walks On The Wild Side: the channel where I help you capture the beauty of nature through your camera lens. I take all aspects of nature photography - wildlife, macro, woodland, landscapes and more. So if you enjoy nature, photography or both, then this is the place for you.
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This is the most I have ever learned from one video. Thank you so much
I'm a botanist because my biochemistry wasn't good enough to study entomology back in the mid 70s, but in my heart I'm still an entomologist. I've had an A-Mount Sigma 105mm on an LA-EA3 for most of my photos, but more recently I've been using the Sony 100-400GM to give me 1/3 magnification and record more documentary of the larger Tipula, Lepidoptera etc, but I'm tempted by the Laowa to push in a bit more, probably just working at 1.5x, but I'm considering the 60mm for something different
Great topic! I enjoy the challenge of trying different perspectives and including more environment in my bird photos.
Hi Scott, now i'm wondering if I am doing this all wrong. I usually turn off IS anytime my shutter speed is above 1/1000. I guess I'll have to try and leave it on next time and compare my results.
Excellent! Camera sensors have dynamic range for the primary additive colors of Red, Green, Blue (RGB). 8-bit files such as jpeg have a possible dynamic range of 0 to 255 for each RGB value. 16-bit RAW files have a possible dynamic range of 0 to 65,535 for each RGB value.
probably the most precise, competent and honest review on this lens.
Definitly the second. Inspiring shots & great tips. Very much appreciated😁
If I could just get the basic shots I would be happy.
Great video as usual! 😊
Thanks for watching.
Very interesting video. Nicely presented. Can you leave the aperture, rather than just coming and going. That way we have time to study the photo and see how it was shot . Like i said great video. I will be back. 👍
Hi. Glad it was interesting, and I’m always open to consider viewer comments. I’m just not sure what you mean by ‘leave the aperture rather than just coming and going’. Thanks for watching.
@WalksOnTheWildSide Hi there. I'll explain in simple words. With each photo you put f,/2,8 1.250 iso 200 Ect it helps to understand what the artist is trying to say 👍👍🙏🙏 Just leave it on the photo 📸. I hope I've been clearer ???
Nicely done. Thank you for sharing your tips for getting the more unusual, and better shots of birds in flight. I really enjoy your videos!
Hi. Glad you enjoy these videos and thanks very much for watching them.
Another fantastic video Scott! Always look forward to your content.
Thank you so much for watching another one.
Great stuff, very useful. I have recently been to Lunga. It was an transformative experience. .
I’m very jealous. I was up on Skye a few weeks ago and I intended to get over to Lunga, but the weather was awful. There were days that the boats weren’t running, and on the days they were running the light was awful. So I didn’t go - there’s always next year. I hope you had a great time and got some fab photos. Thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide Thank you, I did. And some good foreground blur of bluebells, inspired by your "blur" method.
Fantastic photos Scott.
Hi Kathryn. Thanks for watching.
Great video 👍
Much appreciated. Thank you for watching.
Very interesting video. The thing that struck home was when you basically said - take less photos, but higher quality /more thoughtful ..... and have less to edit 👍🏼. I detest wading through tons of my own nearly identical photos. So if I could only make every shutter press count more 😊
I agree, making every shutter press count is something we should all be aiming for. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching.
As always great content
Much appreciated. Thank you for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide your content is amazing is easy to follow
That was really good, and useful. I was proud of most of my BIF shots of puffins. Well, I need to go back and try again. Need to stretch your BIF ability.
Hi puffins and much harder than gannets because they are so small. But it always puts a smile on my face when I see a puffin, let alone am able to capture a picture of one. I hope you enjoyed the experience. Thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide It was wonderful. I also enjoyed distant landscape shots of seabird colonies at Isle of May.
Beautiful video Scott. Your photos are always fantastic. Speaking about the topic, I really agree with you, the second series photos are much more interesting to watch. Take care my friend!
Hi Giuseppe. I hope all is well with you and thanks for watching.
Great video. I shoot insects and the same applies... Butterfly folk sometimes laugh when I pull out the 24mm or even 16mm but it immediately adds context, scale and a visual narrative over the purely isolated shot
I agree, often a not super close up macro photo give more information about the subject, more story.
Totally agree. It makes the world of difference with all sorts of subjects. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching.
You explained this so well in your great video Scott, thanks so much !
Thank you very much Raymond.
Well I say I’ve bought these books that I might learn something from and I have. If you decide to get one yourself all well and good but you need to accept they are not necessarily the best images of that you have the best images that have been entered in this competition. You may find this that the people you follow on FlickrPost images much better than days week after week. That’s the case for me anyway. The books are worth it but don’t expect too much.
Great video, love it.
I'm glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.
I think you should update your method, because everyone uninstalling Adobe products :X
Hi. I do make editing videos using software other than Adobe, but it's a bit of a jump to say that 'everyone' is uninstalling Adobe. There are lots of other software providers building a good customer base. But Adobe is still the market leader with a market share bigger than the combined users of all the other photo editing software added together - so there's a really big audience for Adobe based information.
Is it possible to use the rynox dcr 250 on it?
Such amazing work. Thank you for sharing. I currently have a Leica Q2 monochrome as my only camera. Do you think this camera will be able to produce similar results with a 28mm fixed macro? Also any books on this subject you’d recommend?
Your video has been super helpful. I did not know that numerous base ISOs exist. Also, I now further understand how to use the unsharp mask and reducing noise features in lightroom. I'm so glad I came upon your video!
Dear Walker, I am using Sony FE 200-600 and Sony A7R5.Can I use both OSS and IBIS? I Don't Think So.I am a begginer.Plese Clear my doubt. Thank You.
Hi. Yes, absolutely. With the A7RV and the 200-600 you can use both together or neither. With that combination there is no option to turn off stabilisation (or Steady Shot, as Sony calls it) in the camera menu, it is all controlled by the switch on the lens. If it’s switched on at the lens both OS and IBIS are on. If it’s switched off at the lens both OS and IBIS are off. Thanks for watching.
Your Lessons are clear-cut. Learning a lot...
I bought one of these and boy was I disappointed. I own quite a few Ulanzi products and they have all been of exceptional quality,....until this. The Ulanzi mini fluid head and leveller which I already own are in a different quality league to what you get with this tripod. I was expecting something at least as good...for a $300 product. It feels like about $150, You could do way better and save half your money just by buying the Ulanzi head and leveller as separate units and some and carbon legs elsewhere.
What a champion! Many thanks
I see those deer have upgraded to the optional Tick Removal Device. 😁
How do you get those creamy backgrounds. I have a canon 100mm 2.8 and still i don't get creamy background.in the background is still visible to a certain extent. Can't work that one out. Are you putting a coloured card behind?
Hi. It's hard to say without seeing your photos, but many macro photographers shoot from the wrong angle and so too much of the background is in focus. Here's another video of mine which describes it, but with birds rather than insects. But it's exactly the same principle. kzread.info/dash/bejne/gaCbqrCDhKe6gco.htmlsi=gapzBBrWEBkh4x4s&t=126 Thanks for watching
When we compare Sony, Canon full frames to mft's like Olympus OM1, why does the mft score better at low ISOs ? I thought the smaller sensors would generate more noise ?
Hi there. The idea that smaller sensor sizes have more noise than larger ones has been kicking around for a while, and it's a vast over-simplification of things. People say this when comparing individual sensor's photosites (which is the correct way of describing pixels in your sensor: pixels are in images, photosites are in sensors). So if you have two cameras that are both 24mp, one is full frame and the other is cropped, each photosite in the crop sensor receives less light than the equivalent photosite in the full frame. But this doesn't necessarily mean there will be more noise to achieve the same exposure. Here's an article that describes it well, except for that the writer calls photosites pizels, but if you ignore this the article is good. www.dpreview.com/articles/5365920428/the-effect-of-pixel-and-sensor-sizes-on-noise/2 One other thing to mention is that you shouldn't use the graphs on the photonstophotos website to compare one camera with another. There is a note below the graph to say "These raw values are not appropriate for comparing camera models because they are not adjusted for gain or area." What this means is that you should just use the shape of the line to see how noise increases from the base ISO for an individual camera model, but the base ISO read noise isn't comparable between cameras. I hope that helps and thanks for watching.
Thank You for the in-depth reply and clearing up my confusion.
Interesting topic! Often we love our photos, and if we show it to somebody else, they say it's boring. This self reflection seems to be a good idea, will try it ❤
Great stuff thanks ❤
Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching.
Have you photographed in Estonia
Hi there. No, I haven’t, unfortunately. I would love to photograph wildlife in many parts of the world in the future. Thanks for watching.
@WalksOnTheWildSide I will invite you across once our new lodge is finished with its photographic hides having 53 one way photographic glass windows which are 55cm x 300cm .
Wow, it sounds great. I look forward to it.
this must be the most informative and helpfull video on iso for me as a beginner!
Glad it was helpful!. Thanks for watching.
Hey Scott. Thanks for the video and very good job, but it will help us a lot if you include with each photo the parameters (ISO, speed, aperture and flash ones if you use it). Congrats
is that richmond park london??
An excellently, clearly produced, comprehensive review video. I have subscribed. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. Welcome to the channel.
Greetings from France, where is this beautiful place full of birds ? Yor shots are amazing.
Hi. This was in the UK, on the Yorkshire coast at a little place called Bempton Cliffs. Thanks for watching.
Just ordered one of these used, I can't wait to finally have a good flash! Getting into macro photography and have only had natural light to work with so a flash will totally be a gamechanger!
Good choice, I hope you enjoy it. Thanks for watching.
You explained this so well Scott in such a great way, that's for a great interesting video 👍
Thank you as always Raymond.
I find that long telephoto lengths, even at high shutter speeds the image stabilisation still helps me by giving me a more stable image in the viewfinder. Without it the image stabilisation the image in the viewfinder is generally much shakier, in my experience. Regarding tripds and image stabilisation, I think that advice comes from landscape photography and slower shutter speeds than you'd use for wildlife. Not necessarily long exposures in landscape photography. Basically an exposure longer than the old rule of 1 over your focal length: image stabilisation can ruin such exposures when shooting on a tripod by introducing vibrations. I've had that happen and it really depends on the circumstances and the gear used. But I don't think it was ever applicable to wildlife photography, really.
Hi Tim. You could be right, it would affect the slower shutter speeds of landscape photography far more. But I do think there is something in the variation between camera brands and the different algorithms they use for stabilisation. I was shooting some long exposure seascapes after sunset a couple of nights ago, needing roughly a 13 minute expose due to the darkness. I had stabilisation on the whole time and the photos were perfectly sharp. But I know landscape photographers who use other gear who would swear it needs to be switched off. I think I want to do a bit more investigation on this one. Thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide I recall an evening out when I was photographing a cityscape in the dark and it was with a camera that did not have IBIS, but the lens had OIS. The first shot was unsharp -- the OIS was still on. After I turned on the OIS, all shots were sharp. However, with IBIS in my other bodies I find that it is quite OK most of the time, to leave IBIS on and long exposures will often come out sharp. That's of course not a scientific study, but a datapoint to keep in mind, for myself!
Everything a wildlife photographer needs to know about the IS and why some people need it on. But you will experience it when you get older 😉 and if your gear ruin your shots because of the IS, you are using the wrong brand 😉😊
holy crap Scott, I've bookmarked this to re-watch a few more times, as I know all this stuff, but you make it make a crap load more sense the way you explain it than I ever have.. this should be standard viewing in every school and camera club.. wow!! thank you.. cheers from Sydney ( @dez_blanchfield )
Hi Dez, that's very kind of you to say so. Thanks for watching.
Nice video with good explanations. But would’ve liked to see more 10:46 handheld video. Isn’t that what image stabilization is all about, shooting handheld video?
Hi Fred. No, image stabilisation was invented for stills photography and remains to be the main use case for it. Since the camera market has been making cameras to suit videographers, so that people can do both in one body, they've been trying to make stabilisation that works for video. The problem is that it doesn't work very well for video. I used the example of the dampeners in optical stabilisation being a bit like suspension on a car. It's a perfect example because optical stabilisation smooths things out a little bit, just like suspension lessons the effect of a bump in the road. It doesn't stop you feeling it, it's just not as harsh as a car without suspension. Image stabilisation can smooth things out just enough for the split second it takes to get a picture, but video can still look really bumpy even with it. In the world of film making they don't use video cameras with stabilisation for this very reason. If you ever see a film or TV crew doing any hand held filming they use video gimbal stabilisers that look like a big long pole with counter weights and is often attached to harness on the camera operator's body. m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61LMNe8vkZL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_.jpg Stabilisation has got a long way to go before it works well for video. Thanks for watching.
Am I crazy, or does my Sony a7IV not allow in-body IBIS if the lens has it? (when shooting photographs)
No, but you can be forgiven for thinking that. With some Sony cameras if you have both the lens and camera with steady shot (Sony’s phrase for stabilisation) you can only switch it on and off via the lens switch. The menu option in the camera is disabled. So that means it can only be on for both OS and IBIS, or off for both. You only see the option to switch on steady shot in the camera menu if you have a third party lens, or a Sony lens without steady shot. Thanks for watching.
@@WalksOnTheWildSide That actually seems like a really good move from Sony. It's confusing when a visible control has a state that doesn't match the actual state of the system it's supposed to be controlling. So until lens manufacturers start building in motorized switches and knobs it makes sense to disable the virtual switch when there's a physical switch in place for the same control. Although they don't do that for AF/MF for some reason. In principle they could add an additional position on the physical switch that means "controlled by virtual switch", like Fuji do on their aperture and shutter speed dials.
I have been using Mode 3 for use on a tripod when there is some wind or vibration - with shutter speeds 1/30 to 1/250, 500mmm lens. Any thoughts?
Hi. It probably depends how you are using the tripod, how windy it is and how the wind is affecting your lens. If you've got the lens locked in position and it's not moving at all, you might not even need stabilisation switched on. If it's on a gimbal head or a fluid head so that you can photograph something moving, look at what happens to the lens when you're not holding it. If it's blowing from side to side, you want mode 2. If the vibrations are in all directions you want mode 3. Thanks for watching.
My brand (Nikon) recommends turning off the stabilization when on a tripod. I try to remember (not always successfully) to do that, but on my gimbal head, when photographing birds in flight, I leave it on. For something like a full moon, it positively needs to be off. I still use DSLRs, so no IBIS.
Hi Bill. Absolutely - if it’s locked in position on the tripod, using something like a ball head or a geared head, there is absolutely no point in using stabilisation. I use the stabilisation when I have the camera on a gimbal head or fluid head, photographing something moving. Thanks for watching.
Great explanation, many thanks for that!
Thanks for watching.