How is the laser power off but still running without the cut? I have the polar, and I'm just now getting it figured out
@BeardedBuildsCo2 күн бұрын
On my machine there is a switch for just the power to the tube. For the polar you could set the layer power to 0 min/max and it would do the same thing.
@AmandaLewis-x5b2 күн бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCo thanks
@guyb79952 күн бұрын
I knew the settings would be there somewhere and I new I had to do it 😀 I finally had a job that needed small letters engraved into acrylic and was getting crappy results. After this, its sharp edge's all around. Thanks for the vid 👍
@BeardedBuildsCo2 күн бұрын
Glad you got it dial in! You’re welcome!
@Voodoo5.23 күн бұрын
Do you have to do anything in the winter to keep your workspace and machines at a decent temperature, depending on where you live in guess?
@lovinglife36753 күн бұрын
Fantastic tutorial👍 just gave me a new insight to the power of Lightburn … thank you 🙏
@BeardedBuildsCo3 күн бұрын
You’re welcome! If you need more, I have a full lightburn course! Course.beardedbuildsco.com/store
@NICKLETT14 күн бұрын
This video is so easy to fellow. Thank you.
@BeardedBuildsCo4 күн бұрын
You’re welcome! Glad it helped!
@awillcshop8 күн бұрын
Nice video. where can I buy the 3d print file for the accessories ?
@sharonfarrell19849 күн бұрын
Nice and easy to follow 👍
@alpha11729 күн бұрын
Just got a new co2 laser, this video saved me so much troubleshooting time
@BeardedBuildsCo9 күн бұрын
Glad it helped!
@RealDustyChandler11 күн бұрын
In refernce to your 100 watt laser, did you have to run any special electrical to plug it into? All my shop outlets are on 20amp circuits...i know Thunder lasers require special outlets...just curious about Omtech...youve sold me on Omtech!!
@creationsbyjni385811 күн бұрын
🎉🎉🎉🎉 love it thank you
@ntltorres11 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for all your videos, it has been helping me a lot in setting up my AF2028-80W. Do you have any videos showing how to use the side doors? If you put a long piece of wood on the side doors, it doesn't touch the bed and if you bring the bed up, you can't level the laser. What am I doing wrong?
@lisamariedesignboutique13 күн бұрын
I have the 80w Pro and although I don't need any yet I decided to look for vids to see if there were any pro videos out there on this and Im so glad I found your video so that I can get new mirrors and a lens so I have them just in case my mirrors do the same thing! Thanks for the discount code also!!
@Brianp198213 күн бұрын
Hey. So I attempted the reverse alignment. Everyone I put the alignment tool in and tighten it, it points at a different spot on mirror 2. It does not go into the barrel the same way every time. So this makes it extremely difficult to get an accurate alignment since I mark with a Sharpie where the dot is, then remove the tool so I can pulse. Then we I reinsert the tool it’s not in the exact same spot because of tolerances. Any suggestions? To me there’s no way to get a perfect alignment if the tool can’t be pointing in the same angle every time. It has a very minute wiggle that causes a angle change causing the dot to not be consistent
@BeardedBuildsCo13 күн бұрын
Put the tool on a flat surface and point it at something next to it that is at a 90 degree. Roll the tool and see if the beam dances up and down. The tool might be faulty.
@Brianp198213 күн бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCothat was the issue with my first tool and AP was awesome with customer service and sent me a new one. I wish I could show you a video of what I am experiencing. The tool has a flat spot on it and I always face it towards me so the tool goes in the same way every time. However, it just doesn’t seat itself perfectly in the same place everytime. I can even take my fingers and wiggle the tool with a bit of force and it changes location on mirror two. Not sure how this tool can work well if it can’t stay in the same spot and doesn’t reinstall in the same place with consistency. I appreciate your videos and help by the way! Not sure how to approach this from here.
@Brianp198214 күн бұрын
Hey, another question for ya! I just watched you do a whole traditional alignment and it was spot on. But then you started a reverse alignment with the AP tool and you had to completely redo the alignment because the red dot wasn't hitting your traditional alignment marks? I have the reverse alignment tool and the beam seems to be nowhere near my current traditional alignment.
@BeardedBuildsCo14 күн бұрын
Traditional alignment is getting you in a general best position. Using the reverse alignment tool you are actually able to see if you are getting true 90 degree angles and a flat beam all the way around so that you can then get the tube down into alignment with the perfect path.
@Brianp198214 күн бұрын
Good info! I guess I was just confused as to why the reverse alignment tool was so far off from the traditional beam alignment. Im giving the reverse alignment a shot today. I just noticed when I put the tool into the barrel it has a tiny bit of wiggle. When I mark where the laser hits on mirror 2 and take the tool out and put it back into the barrel it’s not always in the same spot.
@BeardedBuildsCo14 күн бұрын
@@Brianp1982 make sure to tighten down the collar around the alignment tool
@Brianp198214 күн бұрын
Yes sir. I tightened it as much as I could. It seems to seat itself slightly in a different position when reinstalling it as needed. I’ll give it another shot
@Brianp198214 күн бұрын
Great video. Question, when you pulsed mirror 1 straight from the tube I saw your pulse looks like a pretty small sharp dot. My pulse from my tube comes out more like a wider 3-4mm circle. How is your pulse so small? Almost looks like its a focused pulse out of the tube.
@chrisashdown881414 күн бұрын
very clear description. but why on earth would you use the top meaning a high chance of errors by making the logic opposite to the work area its like using a difficult imperial system when metric is far simpler as shown by US money
@abusam115 күн бұрын
on t=7:00 after you had align at the middle of the logo did you roll it back 94mm by hand?
@BeardedBuildsCo15 күн бұрын
Using the move tab in lightburn
@davemajor828815 күн бұрын
One of the best alignment explanations I have seen.
@rickhoguerealtor21 күн бұрын
I know you sped this up, but what was the actual engrave time on the coins for both sides? Great video.
@Jason-un3bx22 күн бұрын
DUDE! Thanks for giving a more (hmm techie) verison of LightBurn. I'm not much of an artist, but computers are my home. Thanks
@BeardedBuildsCo20 күн бұрын
You’re welcome! If you or others are looking for more Lightburn teaching, check out my Lightburn course. Course.beardedbuildsco.com/store
@Jason-un3bx22 күн бұрын
This is AWEsome.
@BeardedBuildsCo20 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@brianwalters827722 күн бұрын
Lightburn is horrible. It will not cut files!
@mrmorden7623 күн бұрын
Thank you that was very helpful 😊
@BeardedBuildsCo23 күн бұрын
You’re welcome!
@angelikaadams287323 күн бұрын
Very smart!! Do you know how to do this on an Epilog Helix 60watt? I think the magnets need to be covered but is there a trick to it? I have a piece of wood to engrave that is too large to close the front door but the top of it shuts. Thanks in advance if you have any suggestions 🙂
@BeardedBuildsCo23 күн бұрын
I don’t have any experience with the Epilog machines so I’m not sure what sensors they have or how they are triggered.
@angelikaadams287322 күн бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thank you! :-)
@lisamariedesignboutique24 күн бұрын
I watched your air assist upgrade on your previous machine. I. just got the 80w Pro and was wondering if you upgraded your air assist on that? If so do you have a video? The lay out on these machines are different and I am struggling a bit to get this done. Thanks!!
@BeardedBuildsCo24 күн бұрын
The 150w hybrid is very different than the other pro models. The 150w already has an air assist that can be driven by a compressor. On the 80/100w pro the process would be very similar to the air assist video that I did.
@gaberalgahim230424 күн бұрын
I have the same machine but my problem is with cutting settings . It cuts and do soldering in the same time. The laser goes through to the other side, but it's impossible to pop out the the cut peice
@BeardedBuildsCo24 күн бұрын
Look into using your wobble settings. It will make a slightly bigger kerf so the hot metal is not still touching and fusing back together.
@stokiejoe-xv5fm25 күн бұрын
Love the design, how do you get it too make multiple of something in one go? I can't figure that out so doing singles and losing the will too live with batches
@JeffC-ct5jj26 күн бұрын
hi, how did you disconnect the built in air pump on your Omtech CO2 laser? I am using the hose from it to the laser head, but the pump still runs.
@BeardedBuildsCo26 күн бұрын
Follow the power wires back to the power supply and disconnect or cut and cap then individually.
@20vK29 күн бұрын
Hi, this is great, thank you. I didn't see you mention what lens size you are using with all your settings. Could you please share? Much appreciated!
@BeardedBuildsCo29 күн бұрын
These were done with a 110 lens amzn.to/4e7oMID
@20vK17 күн бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thank you for the reply - very much appreciated!
@ThePattyChuck16 күн бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCo Does the lens size really make a big difference? I'm running a 70mm lens on my identical machine and can get absolutely nowhere near the quality you seem to get off your 110mm lens. Engraving and cleaning seem to go great, but my black layer is just... not black.
@BeardedBuildsCo16 күн бұрын
@ThePattyChuck the shorter the lens the more depth you can get quickly because the power is not diluted by the longer distance. If everything is working out well other than the black it is likely a settings that you need to work on. Using my engraving and clean settings on a different lens probably work perfectly fine but the black will need fine tuning.
@ThePattyChuck16 күн бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCo Appreciate your reply. I can get pretty good black on just 2B stainless test plates, but as soon as I try to get black on a lasered surface, it just doesn't work lol. I'll keep testing. Thanks again for your great content!
@sarahcook3980Ай бұрын
I have to replace my air compressor the one I have started leaking. How do I know which one to buy? How many psi should I d I get? I have 80w omtech
@OutdoorCQBАй бұрын
What wood do you use? I'm STRUGGLING. Im using wood that's cheap from Menards
@jacqtekАй бұрын
Is there a way to test my IOT Relay? I checked in the "Machine inspector 30=1" but in spindle control I don't see "Automatic", I only see "Manual or Hardware" Any idea what is my problem here, my setup or my IOT Relay?
@allaboutthevillages4747Ай бұрын
Where can I find out your source for these coins? I can’t find it.
@allaboutthevillages4747Ай бұрын
This is the kind of video I was looking for. I am new to Fiber Lasers and this video answered so many questions. Keep these coming for people like me.
@thogg4Ай бұрын
Masterful. It was really hard to keep my eyes off of the guy in the bottom right corner.
@scottd.8506Ай бұрын
Great video!! Helps me out a lot.
@christinesullivan4079Ай бұрын
So I am just starting sublimation. when I import my image which I saved as a pdf from word, the targets are fine but the outline is teensy tiny and off ctr. Also I should be able to place my sublimated piece anywhere on the bed correct?
@jankristensen7884Ай бұрын
thanks very informative, one question how thick plywood can a 100w laser cut in one pass?
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
Short answer 1/2” Long answer- there are a lot of factors to consider. The more dense the material and more layers the ply has that harder it will be to cut. More layers means more glue and glue is a laser’s enemy. HD has a 1/2” sandeply that cuts pretty well and only has three internal layers.
@jankristensen7884Ай бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCo ok, i am not sure if i my laser is doing well, i tried with birchplywood and i managed 6mm /=1/4" I think i have the shortest focus length installed
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
@jankristensen7884 birch ply in not the same as Baltic birch. Again not all plys are created equal. The other thing to check and make sure you get dialed in is your beam alignment. Also set a good cleaning routine.
@blewprentАй бұрын
Why would double lines happen all of a sudden though? If your machine was engraving fine one day, why would it just go off center the next day if its a software issue?
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
Have you checked your beam alignment?
@blewprentАй бұрын
Ive had my machine for 2 years now and I finally took the plunge today and aligned all my mirrors. It was always a fear that I would mess up something and wouldn't be able to cut or engrave anything. Had to get over that. I aligned the mirrors and did the offset configuration and wow....the difference is night and day. Thank you for making these videos. Wish I could subscribe a million times!!!
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
You’re welcome! Glad you are seeing the benefit of fine tuning your machine and getting awesome results!
@blewprentАй бұрын
Can you do a video on how to tighten up all the nuts and bolts and also how to tighten the belt?
@dustybeardwoodcraftsАй бұрын
Hey man. It looks like your affiliate code has reached its limit of uses and isn't working anymore. Just wanted to let you know.
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
I really appreciate you saying something! Working on getting this fixed right now!
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
Got it fixed!
@dustybeardwoodcraftsАй бұрын
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thanks man! Just used your code to buy my Grip!
@Alluvian567Ай бұрын
Very good use case for the camera. Lightburn cameras never seemed accurate enough for me because I would see people putting a circular logo on a circular coaster and if that thing is not PERFECT, it is going to look terrible. But using it to easily squeeze out all the space on a sheet where you assume you might be 1 or 2 mm off, it works great for that. I think having it so far up with your lid open also really helps as you don't have to deal as much with wide angles.
@Alluvian567Ай бұрын
To be clear, if you have the reverse alignment laser tool, you would just do the second part and not have to do the initial part, right? I am surprised that the front co2 laser bracket does not have left/right up/down threads to fine adjust the tube alignment on these machines. Sure shimming kinda works, but often people are sticking postit notes or paper as shims and over time things like that will compress and get thinner and the alignment will drift. I guess the same thing would happen with rubber grips touching the glass as well, but it would be easier I think to periodically align it.
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
You will align with the revers alignment tool and then you would need to match that patch with the actual laser beam.
@Alluvian567Ай бұрын
OMG, THAT is what that thing I saw on the omtech site is for. I thought it was some kind of inline red dot and it made NO DANG sense. NOW I get it. Have not seen one of these alignment videos that was not doing the painters tape and pulse method. I am in that obsessive stage that I always get in when buying a new piece of tech.
@Alluvian567Ай бұрын
Are these offsets consistent on both x and y axis?
@BeardedBuildsCoАй бұрын
The offsets are no specific to the axis it applied to the machine as a whole.
@Alluvian567Ай бұрын
Great video, do these settings live in lightburn or are they uploaded into the firmware somewhere. Do most machines come with offsets this far off? Those are some pretty huge offsets it seems. Looking to get into laser cutting (10 year 3d printing background but new to cnc / laser) with a monport or an omtech 50 - 80 watt mid tier unit.
@roberth1858Ай бұрын
Can that 150 watt be dialed down enough for fine engravings? I heard it’s hard to dial down a high wattage laser
@gregmiller1663Ай бұрын
I live in an apartment with smoke detectors everwhere with sprinklers in every room. Would that smoke set off alarms if you're doing a bunch of those patches? Thoughts on an entry level laser?
@gregmiller1663Ай бұрын
Can't afford a laser like this. What is a good entry level laser for doing patches for hats? I can upgrade as business builds.
@mothpatrolАй бұрын
You skipped over the settings you used for each layer. What did you end up using?
Пікірлер
How is the laser power off but still running without the cut? I have the polar, and I'm just now getting it figured out
On my machine there is a switch for just the power to the tube. For the polar you could set the layer power to 0 min/max and it would do the same thing.
@@BeardedBuildsCo thanks
I knew the settings would be there somewhere and I new I had to do it 😀 I finally had a job that needed small letters engraved into acrylic and was getting crappy results. After this, its sharp edge's all around. Thanks for the vid 👍
Glad you got it dial in! You’re welcome!
Do you have to do anything in the winter to keep your workspace and machines at a decent temperature, depending on where you live in guess?
Fantastic tutorial👍 just gave me a new insight to the power of Lightburn … thank you 🙏
You’re welcome! If you need more, I have a full lightburn course! Course.beardedbuildsco.com/store
This video is so easy to fellow. Thank you.
You’re welcome! Glad it helped!
Nice video. where can I buy the 3d print file for the accessories ?
Nice and easy to follow 👍
Just got a new co2 laser, this video saved me so much troubleshooting time
Glad it helped!
In refernce to your 100 watt laser, did you have to run any special electrical to plug it into? All my shop outlets are on 20amp circuits...i know Thunder lasers require special outlets...just curious about Omtech...youve sold me on Omtech!!
🎉🎉🎉🎉 love it thank you
Thank you so much for all your videos, it has been helping me a lot in setting up my AF2028-80W. Do you have any videos showing how to use the side doors? If you put a long piece of wood on the side doors, it doesn't touch the bed and if you bring the bed up, you can't level the laser. What am I doing wrong?
I have the 80w Pro and although I don't need any yet I decided to look for vids to see if there were any pro videos out there on this and Im so glad I found your video so that I can get new mirrors and a lens so I have them just in case my mirrors do the same thing! Thanks for the discount code also!!
Hey. So I attempted the reverse alignment. Everyone I put the alignment tool in and tighten it, it points at a different spot on mirror 2. It does not go into the barrel the same way every time. So this makes it extremely difficult to get an accurate alignment since I mark with a Sharpie where the dot is, then remove the tool so I can pulse. Then we I reinsert the tool it’s not in the exact same spot because of tolerances. Any suggestions? To me there’s no way to get a perfect alignment if the tool can’t be pointing in the same angle every time. It has a very minute wiggle that causes a angle change causing the dot to not be consistent
Put the tool on a flat surface and point it at something next to it that is at a 90 degree. Roll the tool and see if the beam dances up and down. The tool might be faulty.
@@BeardedBuildsCothat was the issue with my first tool and AP was awesome with customer service and sent me a new one. I wish I could show you a video of what I am experiencing. The tool has a flat spot on it and I always face it towards me so the tool goes in the same way every time. However, it just doesn’t seat itself perfectly in the same place everytime. I can even take my fingers and wiggle the tool with a bit of force and it changes location on mirror two. Not sure how this tool can work well if it can’t stay in the same spot and doesn’t reinstall in the same place with consistency. I appreciate your videos and help by the way! Not sure how to approach this from here.
Hey, another question for ya! I just watched you do a whole traditional alignment and it was spot on. But then you started a reverse alignment with the AP tool and you had to completely redo the alignment because the red dot wasn't hitting your traditional alignment marks? I have the reverse alignment tool and the beam seems to be nowhere near my current traditional alignment.
Traditional alignment is getting you in a general best position. Using the reverse alignment tool you are actually able to see if you are getting true 90 degree angles and a flat beam all the way around so that you can then get the tube down into alignment with the perfect path.
Good info! I guess I was just confused as to why the reverse alignment tool was so far off from the traditional beam alignment. Im giving the reverse alignment a shot today. I just noticed when I put the tool into the barrel it has a tiny bit of wiggle. When I mark where the laser hits on mirror 2 and take the tool out and put it back into the barrel it’s not always in the same spot.
@@Brianp1982 make sure to tighten down the collar around the alignment tool
Yes sir. I tightened it as much as I could. It seems to seat itself slightly in a different position when reinstalling it as needed. I’ll give it another shot
Great video. Question, when you pulsed mirror 1 straight from the tube I saw your pulse looks like a pretty small sharp dot. My pulse from my tube comes out more like a wider 3-4mm circle. How is your pulse so small? Almost looks like its a focused pulse out of the tube.
very clear description. but why on earth would you use the top meaning a high chance of errors by making the logic opposite to the work area its like using a difficult imperial system when metric is far simpler as shown by US money
on t=7:00 after you had align at the middle of the logo did you roll it back 94mm by hand?
Using the move tab in lightburn
One of the best alignment explanations I have seen.
I know you sped this up, but what was the actual engrave time on the coins for both sides? Great video.
DUDE! Thanks for giving a more (hmm techie) verison of LightBurn. I'm not much of an artist, but computers are my home. Thanks
You’re welcome! If you or others are looking for more Lightburn teaching, check out my Lightburn course. Course.beardedbuildsco.com/store
This is AWEsome.
Thank you!
Lightburn is horrible. It will not cut files!
Thank you that was very helpful 😊
You’re welcome!
Very smart!! Do you know how to do this on an Epilog Helix 60watt? I think the magnets need to be covered but is there a trick to it? I have a piece of wood to engrave that is too large to close the front door but the top of it shuts. Thanks in advance if you have any suggestions 🙂
I don’t have any experience with the Epilog machines so I’m not sure what sensors they have or how they are triggered.
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thank you! :-)
I watched your air assist upgrade on your previous machine. I. just got the 80w Pro and was wondering if you upgraded your air assist on that? If so do you have a video? The lay out on these machines are different and I am struggling a bit to get this done. Thanks!!
The 150w hybrid is very different than the other pro models. The 150w already has an air assist that can be driven by a compressor. On the 80/100w pro the process would be very similar to the air assist video that I did.
I have the same machine but my problem is with cutting settings . It cuts and do soldering in the same time. The laser goes through to the other side, but it's impossible to pop out the the cut peice
Look into using your wobble settings. It will make a slightly bigger kerf so the hot metal is not still touching and fusing back together.
Love the design, how do you get it too make multiple of something in one go? I can't figure that out so doing singles and losing the will too live with batches
hi, how did you disconnect the built in air pump on your Omtech CO2 laser? I am using the hose from it to the laser head, but the pump still runs.
Follow the power wires back to the power supply and disconnect or cut and cap then individually.
Hi, this is great, thank you. I didn't see you mention what lens size you are using with all your settings. Could you please share? Much appreciated!
These were done with a 110 lens amzn.to/4e7oMID
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thank you for the reply - very much appreciated!
@@BeardedBuildsCo Does the lens size really make a big difference? I'm running a 70mm lens on my identical machine and can get absolutely nowhere near the quality you seem to get off your 110mm lens. Engraving and cleaning seem to go great, but my black layer is just... not black.
@ThePattyChuck the shorter the lens the more depth you can get quickly because the power is not diluted by the longer distance. If everything is working out well other than the black it is likely a settings that you need to work on. Using my engraving and clean settings on a different lens probably work perfectly fine but the black will need fine tuning.
@@BeardedBuildsCo Appreciate your reply. I can get pretty good black on just 2B stainless test plates, but as soon as I try to get black on a lasered surface, it just doesn't work lol. I'll keep testing. Thanks again for your great content!
I have to replace my air compressor the one I have started leaking. How do I know which one to buy? How many psi should I d I get? I have 80w omtech
What wood do you use? I'm STRUGGLING. Im using wood that's cheap from Menards
Is there a way to test my IOT Relay? I checked in the "Machine inspector 30=1" but in spindle control I don't see "Automatic", I only see "Manual or Hardware" Any idea what is my problem here, my setup or my IOT Relay?
Where can I find out your source for these coins? I can’t find it.
This is the kind of video I was looking for. I am new to Fiber Lasers and this video answered so many questions. Keep these coming for people like me.
Masterful. It was really hard to keep my eyes off of the guy in the bottom right corner.
Great video!! Helps me out a lot.
So I am just starting sublimation. when I import my image which I saved as a pdf from word, the targets are fine but the outline is teensy tiny and off ctr. Also I should be able to place my sublimated piece anywhere on the bed correct?
thanks very informative, one question how thick plywood can a 100w laser cut in one pass?
Short answer 1/2” Long answer- there are a lot of factors to consider. The more dense the material and more layers the ply has that harder it will be to cut. More layers means more glue and glue is a laser’s enemy. HD has a 1/2” sandeply that cuts pretty well and only has three internal layers.
@@BeardedBuildsCo ok, i am not sure if i my laser is doing well, i tried with birchplywood and i managed 6mm /=1/4" I think i have the shortest focus length installed
@jankristensen7884 birch ply in not the same as Baltic birch. Again not all plys are created equal. The other thing to check and make sure you get dialed in is your beam alignment. Also set a good cleaning routine.
Why would double lines happen all of a sudden though? If your machine was engraving fine one day, why would it just go off center the next day if its a software issue?
Have you checked your beam alignment?
Ive had my machine for 2 years now and I finally took the plunge today and aligned all my mirrors. It was always a fear that I would mess up something and wouldn't be able to cut or engrave anything. Had to get over that. I aligned the mirrors and did the offset configuration and wow....the difference is night and day. Thank you for making these videos. Wish I could subscribe a million times!!!
You’re welcome! Glad you are seeing the benefit of fine tuning your machine and getting awesome results!
Can you do a video on how to tighten up all the nuts and bolts and also how to tighten the belt?
Hey man. It looks like your affiliate code has reached its limit of uses and isn't working anymore. Just wanted to let you know.
I really appreciate you saying something! Working on getting this fixed right now!
Got it fixed!
@@BeardedBuildsCo Thanks man! Just used your code to buy my Grip!
Very good use case for the camera. Lightburn cameras never seemed accurate enough for me because I would see people putting a circular logo on a circular coaster and if that thing is not PERFECT, it is going to look terrible. But using it to easily squeeze out all the space on a sheet where you assume you might be 1 or 2 mm off, it works great for that. I think having it so far up with your lid open also really helps as you don't have to deal as much with wide angles.
To be clear, if you have the reverse alignment laser tool, you would just do the second part and not have to do the initial part, right? I am surprised that the front co2 laser bracket does not have left/right up/down threads to fine adjust the tube alignment on these machines. Sure shimming kinda works, but often people are sticking postit notes or paper as shims and over time things like that will compress and get thinner and the alignment will drift. I guess the same thing would happen with rubber grips touching the glass as well, but it would be easier I think to periodically align it.
You will align with the revers alignment tool and then you would need to match that patch with the actual laser beam.
OMG, THAT is what that thing I saw on the omtech site is for. I thought it was some kind of inline red dot and it made NO DANG sense. NOW I get it. Have not seen one of these alignment videos that was not doing the painters tape and pulse method. I am in that obsessive stage that I always get in when buying a new piece of tech.
Are these offsets consistent on both x and y axis?
The offsets are no specific to the axis it applied to the machine as a whole.
Great video, do these settings live in lightburn or are they uploaded into the firmware somewhere. Do most machines come with offsets this far off? Those are some pretty huge offsets it seems. Looking to get into laser cutting (10 year 3d printing background but new to cnc / laser) with a monport or an omtech 50 - 80 watt mid tier unit.
Can that 150 watt be dialed down enough for fine engravings? I heard it’s hard to dial down a high wattage laser
I live in an apartment with smoke detectors everwhere with sprinklers in every room. Would that smoke set off alarms if you're doing a bunch of those patches? Thoughts on an entry level laser?
Can't afford a laser like this. What is a good entry level laser for doing patches for hats? I can upgrade as business builds.
You skipped over the settings you used for each layer. What did you end up using?