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I keep seeing dead american roaches in the same place on my living room (sometimes babies sometimes adults) every 30-40 days on average. I dont leave clutter nor food for them. Are they coming from outside or am i dealing with an infestation? I should also mention that I had a pest control technician spray every perimeter of my house and leave some bait but that is all. I would appreciate any help thanks!
@KeithKillingly12 сағат бұрын
I see one roach maybe every other month. They look German but I guess they must not be since I don’t see them much. Kinda hard to tell because I only look at them closely after I’ve always squished them
@NicDDropoutOG13 сағат бұрын
How would the drilling apply to exterior walls and insulation? Wouldn't it just dust the spot of the insulation given it has no room to fall and disperse inside the wall?
@ashimpoudyal15 сағат бұрын
You are the best. Great video. Appreciate it.
@oclv416 сағат бұрын
Hello Guy! This treatment works on mobile homes also? If yes, how can I apply it?
@mr.tiddles556Күн бұрын
Here with katsaridaphobia trying to give myself exposure therapy. It’s not working.
@vilentlevale6471Күн бұрын
Is it true,that sugar+baking soda can be used to kill carpenter ants?will exekly carpenter ants eat baking soda or they will take just sugar out?
@vilentlevale6471Күн бұрын
Will this treatment stop mice from coming in also?
@heatherbass2753Күн бұрын
Hi Guy 👋🏻 I just sent you an email regarding help with an apartment. Thank you for all of your info and willingness to help us. 😊
@GuysPestSolutions7 минут бұрын
I just responded to your email. I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Please watch this video all the way through and take notes. You must do this correctly for it to work. The apartment modifications are in the email. Be well Heather.
@MC1RPOSITIVESusieQКүн бұрын
Q. HOW DOOMED AM I? 😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬 I am pretty sure what I saw fall into my car while parked was a roach. Looked yellow/tan & was running like lightning into my defrost vent. 90% sure it's what I saw. I was parked near a clothing drop box/ dumpster waiting for a family member. It was only one... Ran so fast I couldn't catch it. In my vents now
@POOKIE5592Күн бұрын
Do you have any thoughts on Imidacloprid instead of Fipronil?
@GuysPestSolutions28 минут бұрын
They both work great. The fipronil products are usually a bit less expensive. In some states you cannot buy fipronil, but they do allow imidacloprid. In other states you cannot buy imidacloprid, but you can buy fipronil. The logic of it totally escapes me. Anyway, either formulation is fine. I hope that helps. BE well my friend.
@POOKIE559211 минут бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you, that helps a lot. Where I work, we have imidacloprid for treating seed in the ag industry. Thank you for your reply, and have a great day!
@amorales5113Күн бұрын
Hello Guy, I live in South Florida and have a couple of questions. 1. Do Subterranean termites also swarm or are swarmer's only dry wood termites? 2. If I read the instructions correctly the mixture depending on desired strength is .8 oz/gal at a rate of 4 gallons per 10 linear per foot of depth. if you want to go deeper add .08 oz for every foot of depth. Do you think it is necessary to go deeper then 1 foot?
@GuysPestSolutions32 минут бұрын
Yes. All termites swarm. That is how they start new colonies. I don't think you ever need to go deeper than 6 inches. If you live in South Florida, then you need to make sure that you are treating for the correct species. Drywood termites get treated much differently than subterranean termites. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard. After I know the species, I can tell you exactly how to treat it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html
@hartleyhubbard3827Күн бұрын
lol... "if listening to me is entertaining, then, maybe it might be time to expand your horizons a little..."
@GuysPestSolutions42 минут бұрын
Yeah, I admit that I'm pretty boring. It's funny. Some people write to me to tell me that I talk too slow and I'm boring. Fair enough, but I don't understand why they think I don't already know that. My wife mentions it to me all the time. Lol. It's not like they are discovering some unknow revelation. I'm a pest controller. Not an entertainer. I figure if folks want entertainment, they need to watch TikTok. If they want to know how to eliminate a bug infestation, then watch me. That being said, there are a select few who actually like the way I talk and do binge watch my videos. For that I am most appreciative, but even I don't even watch them after I post them. Perhaps that's because I already know how to do this stuff. Anyway, thanks for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@hartleyhubbard3827Күн бұрын
excellent! I'm all about DIY before calling/spending on a commercial solution. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & experiences. Greg [garden grove, CA usa]
@GuysPestSolutions52 минут бұрын
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@St7ckTheWorldКүн бұрын
Hey I just purchased a house and I knew it had termites but didnt know the severity till I seen 1 mudtube in the upper part of a downstairs closet.ive seen your work (and thank you ) I want to ask a quick question. So I’ve trenched my house may 12th but wasn’t able to get to one side due to it being in my neighbors back yard. Should I be drastically worried and how do I apply fuse foam into the wall on that side? Will that even work?
@GuysPestSolutions53 минут бұрын
Ideally, you should ask your neighbor for permission to trench that side of the house. Also, read your deed. Zero lot line homes often have exceptions in the neighbor's deed granting you access to do this sort of work. I mean, how would you paint that side of the house or do other maintenance? We are only talking about a 6-inch-wide trench. Usually there is a right of way or easement that gives you access to that side of the house. That being said, even if the right of way is in the deed, it's still a good idea to ask your neighbor. Bring some cookies over and ask nicely. Don't play the right of way card, even if it's in the deed. If you get a no answer, then thank them for their time and just do it anyway, if you have that right of way. If they call the police, have the deed handy to show the nice officer. If they seek the help of an attorney, they will be advised that you have the right to do that. In other words, do your homework and do your best to be a good neighbor. You don't want an unnecessary neighbor dispute. Being polite and kind usually gets it done. You can only treat with Fuse foam if you know where the termites are. So that will not be of help to you. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@roli682Күн бұрын
Are these chemical hazardous for humans? Sir I am very much disturbed from German roaches. I am midway to your video . I will follow your rules. Sometimes i feel like crying
@GuysPestSolutions10 сағат бұрын
I'm so sorry that you are having this problem and I understand how you feel. German cockroaches are a nightmare. None of the products shown in this video are hazardous to humans after they are dry. However, you do need to wear some protective equipment while you are applying the products. It is a good idea to always wear rubber gloves and eye protection. When applying dust or when spraying any liquids, it is also a good idea to wear respirator. The idea is that you don't want to be breathing this stuff in or getting it in your eyes. However, after the dust settles and everything is dry, then you can touch any of these materials without fear of getting ill. In fact, all of these materials a safe for children to play on after they are dry. The only exception would be the dust. You should only apply the dust in areas that will not be disturbed by people, pets, or air currents. Other than that, you will be just fine. If you live in an apartment, then please email me at [email protected]. There is additional information that you should have if you live in an apartment. I cannot share it here because KZread will most likely delete it. I have no idea why they do that, but it seems to happen a lot these days. When you email, please give me your KZread name, and simply ask for the German cockroach instructions for apartments. Please allow a couple of days for me to answer your email because I am a bit backed up with emails right now. I was on vacation for 2 weeks and I was not able to answer any emails during that time. I'm quickly getting caught up, but I am still about 3 days behind. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@JamminJarrod2 күн бұрын
Hi there guy I live in a one bedroom apartment 2 weeks ago I discovered on my indoor grill crockpot air fryer oven micro refrigerator bugs from dishwasher & bathroom sink In bedroom at night can see white larvae hopping on carpet not sure if same larvae but In medicine cabinet bottom shelf rusty they left residue on my waterpik got into my denture cleanser my denture cream ouch when Squeezed some 4 my dentures top part what is stinging got into my body wash Yikes they sent bug man over but I guess girls at office didn’t say he may have infestation all he did was spray and could barely smell it when got home I tried explaining my sister inside shelves see they orange they larvae on my plastic sealed containers she that’s not larvae that just caked in food yeah right ha ha why my phone case for iPhone chewed up smeared with larvae that tough to get off Help would be greatly appreciated Guy I sure hope moth larvae can wreck Someone’s immune system was both stem and in my 2 liter bottle of soda seen organisms moving around this all freaking me out cause they also near baseboards too not many are educated on Larvae but they can do damage even ladies at office tell sis where’s the bugs duh come to apartment and see 4 yourself you’d have be very clever to find the culprit moth maybe you know a good diy solution to get rid all this mess
@GuysPestSolutions11 сағат бұрын
That's a tough one. Larvae can be from different species. Usually though you also see adults. Think about it for a minute. Where did the larvae come from? You can't get offspring unless you have a parent. So, are you seeing any moths, flies, beetles, or that sort of thing? If you are, then please tell me what you are seeing. As a general rule, the first place to start is to get everything squeaky clean. Make sure the apartment is spotless. Larvae need to eat, so by cleaning really well, you will remove the food supply. This is especially important to do where you are seeing the larvae. The little guys need food to stay alive, so make sure that they do not have any. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@davidav8orpflanz5612 күн бұрын
When I was In Iraq (2003) - US Army, where we had sandfleas, poisonous baby Black Cobra snakes, poisonous scorpions, and Camel spiders/like land crabs (anesthetize so you can't feel it, then eat you - creatures) in my tent (all the tents), no floors, screens, or zippered doors - like your WALMART Camping tents have. During the 1st Gulf War (1991), one guy (helicopter pilot) was sitting on the end of his cot playing a guitar, and a Camel Spider the size of an open hand, ran into the tent's entrance making a cloud of dust like the Tasmanian Devil cartoon character - they are fast, straight for him, and the guy smashed it dead with his booted foot; I guess it didn't like the Country music he was playing, or a big fan and wanted an autograph? Or the music sound made the Camel Spider think he was a fresh Camel meal? (Camel spiders crawl through the sand and get under sleeping Camels, then eat their way up inside the Camels, killing them and laying eggs for a new batch - why they are called "CAMEL SPIDERS"). Boots had flea collars around the ankles to fend them off when walking about and prevent bites/diseases (One piece Flight Suit legs don't tucked into boots - for fire safety purposes) and hung boots up when not wearing from the tent's support poles overhead to keep crawling critters out of them. Changed clothes, took off or put on boots, and slept on steel leg cots, lower part before crossing - cot's legs wrapped with inverted (sticky side out) military duct tape, and slept inside the outer 6-handle-nylon bag layer of body bags, that could fully zip up (a little hard to un-zipper from the inside - reckon why). And kept cots away from the walls! I went back to my unit HQ in Mosul from the Telafar Air Base (up near Syria), put my kitbag bag (my personal clothes and supplies; canvas military luggage) on the floor, opened it, and went to the latrine (porta-potty). When I came back, my buddies told me that the biggest black Scorpion they ever saw crawled out of my bag, and they scared it out the door of the concrete barracks back into the desert! Yeah, I gotta visit sunny Iraq twice 12 years apart, for x2 Wars Vacations - courtesy of Uncle Sam! Yikes! Bed Bugs - child's play!
@GuysPestSolutionsКүн бұрын
Thank you for sharing that story and thank you for your service. Both are greatly appreciated. I think I will stay in the good old USA. Be well my friend.
@susieq5171Сағат бұрын
Wow! That is crazy! It's almost like you'd have to literally shoot the bugs away instead of shooin the bugs. U are very brave and my family and I thanku for your service. I suppose you could bring back a dead camel spider if no one believed u or as a souvenir.
@-I-Use-Punctuation2 күн бұрын
Guy, will this method work for other roach species? Iv only seen 4, 1 with an egg hanging out, but I'm not certain of the species. Let's assume worst case scenario...
@GuysPestSolutions21 сағат бұрын
I replied to this, but KZread deleted it. They do that sometimes. Please email me at [email protected] and ask your question there. Please provide your KZread name when you email. Sorry about that. Be well my friend.
@-I-Use-Punctuation16 сағат бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions will do, soon. Thx guy😁
@mtbbiker64012 күн бұрын
Great video. I'm going to purchase the moisture sensor. If I do find a carton, should I foam it first to kill off the colony and then remove it? Also, is it possible to have inactive cartons after treatment? Does the moisture sensor only detect active cartons since they are moist? I suspect an inactive carton would be dry.
@GuysPestSolutionsКүн бұрын
Keep in mind that the moisture meter does not specifically detect cartons. The moisture meter detects moisture. There are other reasons why the moisture meter may show a higher reading, other than cartons. Also, it can sometimes be difficult to find all the cartons with the moisture meter because the carton may not be in contact with the drywall that you are testing. Therefore, you may only get a very slight reading that is higher than normal. So, any deviation in the reading, no matter how slight, should be investigated with the borescope. I think it is possible to run into a carton that is not active. However, I honestly do not know if an inactive carton will contain enough moisture to be detected by the moisture meter. It is unclear to me exactly how those cartons obtain and store the moisture that is needed for the termites. I have never been trained on that aspect of it, and there isn't a lot of information out there about it either. As best as I can tell, worker termites most likely obtain moisture from the environment and bring it back to the carton. The material that the carton is made of has the ability to hold moisture for some time, without additional moisture being added. In other words, it has moisture retaining properties. Theoretically, if the carton is inactive, then you would think that, eventually, it will dry out. However, I am unclear if this will happen, or how quickly it would happen. In any event, if you do not detect any moisture whatsoever, then you most likely would not explore further with the borescope. If you do detect moisture, and the borescope confirms the existence of a carton, then you would not really know if it was active or not, so you would need to remove it anyway. So, while that is an interesting scientific question, I don't know that obtaining a definitive answer to it serves any practical purpose. There are many pest controllers who either do not mess with the cartons at all, or they try to treat them without removing them. Personally, I think both of those approaches are inadequate, and I have seen cases where pest controllers have done this, and it resulted in serious damage to the building. Those cartons can remain healthy for some time, so in my judgment, those things need to be removed. Therefore, I would not waste time trying to treat one before I removed it. I think the best thing to do is to remove the drywall to gain access to the carton, and then remove the carton. I understand that this is expensive, but it is also expensive to repair the damage that is going to be done by these guys if the carton is not removed. Then, you still need to repair the damage after you remove the carton. So, my advice is to never mess with these guys. They are very destructive, so they need to go. The only sure-fire way to do that is to open up the wall and remove the carton. At least, that is the way it seems to me. I'm not saying it is not possible to be successful treating a carton without opening up the wall, but I think it's a bit like playing Russian roulette. It certainly is not a sure thing, and I don't know how you would ever tell if you were successful in killing that carton before observing more damage. If you do remove the wall covering to expose the carton, I would see no reason to treat it prior to removing it. However, I would treat the cartons outside before disposing of them in the trash. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@mtbbiker640119 сағат бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your help. I plan to purchase the moisture meter and borescope in your video links. I certainly understand the urgency of removing the carton since Formosans are very destructive but also worried about the termites that will escape into other parts of the wall during the removal. Plus there would be other termites outside the carton that are foraging. Would they return to the carton area and be exposed to the fipronil treatment I would place after removing the carton?
@camisf782 күн бұрын
Will this work for tennis shoes and other shoes without melting the glue?
@GuysPestSolutionsКүн бұрын
Hmmmm. I usually treat shoes with an aerosol pesticide, but I suppose if there is no metal, then you can try microwaving them. Start with 20 or 30 seconds to see if there is any damage. If not, then try 40 seconds. If you are still good, try 60 seconds. That will probably kill the roaches, but you can go longer to see what happens. Just take it in baby steps and if you see any damage happening at all, then stop. Tennis shoes do not contain water, so make sure you put half a cup of water in the microwave. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@camisf78Күн бұрын
Actually for bed bugs but same concept. Will try with an older pair and see how ot goes. Appreciate all your time and help. @GuysPestSolutions
@GuysPestSolutionsКүн бұрын
You are very welcome. This should work for bed bugs too. If you have not done so already, please watch my video on how to treat a bed bug infestation. There are a lot of videos out there on how to treat bed bugs, but I have never seen one that showed you everything that you need to do. They all seem to provide just part of the necessary treatments. If you do it my way, those bed bugs will be gone for sure. I wish you well with it. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat a bed bug infestation: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eXeeuM6rdsm6n6Q.html
@lilmoose64562 күн бұрын
Guy - Great video as always. I have a slightly different question regarding subterranean termites. A contractor recently installed two 6x6 pressure treated posts to support a roof extension over a patio. He set the posts about 2-3 ft. In the ground and set them in concrete; however, they are not completely encased in cement. I am wondering if I should take any steps to prevent future termite damage. I live in the New Orleans area.
@GuysPestSolutionsКүн бұрын
I am not a licensed contractor in New Orleans, but I would be very surprised if those post installations would pass building codes. In my opinion, the way that job should be done is that a concrete pier should be installed in the ground under the post and that pier should extend above the ground level by a few inches. This is usually accomplished by digging a hole and inserting a hollow cardboard tube into the hole and then filling it with concrete and perhaps some rebar. When it dries, the post should be placed on top of the concrete. The reason it is done this way has nothing to do with termites. The way those posts are installed, they will withstand sideloads pretty well, but I would have a problem with the vertical loads. That is to say, it is possible that the posts may settle and sink because of the way they were installed. Again, I'm not a contractor, but I have done a lot of this work, and that is the way I would do it. That being said, the posts that were used were most likely rated for ground contact. Of course, I have no way of knowing if that's what the contractor used, but it would be really horrible if he didn't. Pressure treated wood that is rated for ground contact isn't entirely termite proof, but it is very unlikely that it will be attacked by termites. If the posts are not rated for ground contact, then I would treat them with Bora-Care prior to painting or sealing them in any way. This product must be applied to bare wood. Even if the posts are rated for ground contact, it still wouldn't be a bad idea to treat them with Bora-Care. I will give you a link to the product and a link to a video on how to use it. I recommend that you mix it 1 to 1 with water instead of 1 to 5. Also, it is perfectly okay to mix it with cold water. I do it all the time. For small jobs, you can mix a half a cup of product with a half a cup of water. You're supposed to mix it with a drill and a paint mixer attachment, but when I am mixing small amounts, I generally just use a mixing stick that you would use for mixing paint. Keep in mind that if the posts are not ground rated, or if they are ground rated and get attacked anyway, then if any part of those posts are not encased in concrete under the ground, then the termites can enter and tunnel their way up right up the center of the post to the roof structure above. Again, you are probably going to be okay from pest control point of view, if the posts are rated for ground contact. The only other issue would be that the posts may eventually rot and then fail. You see that all the time with fence posts that fail right at the dirt line. If water sits up against the post every time it rains, then that can make the post start to rot at ground level. I think it would take a very long time before that post would fail, but again, I think it should have been placed on top of a concrete pier. I hope that helps. We will my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?sub_id=554 Bora-Care video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKGmwcN-n8ffmMo.html
@lilmoose6456Күн бұрын
Thanks for responding to my question. It’s really gratifying to see someone with your depth of experience be willing to take up so much of your personal time in sharing your experience and expertise to help complete strangers like me. Folks like you are a rarity in today’s world. Thanks again and God bless you for being so generous.
@GuysPestSolutionsКүн бұрын
You are very welcome. That is so nice of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
@deanblackwell14612 күн бұрын
I think I just got infected. I got a two dot bite after staying in a cheap motel. I've been vacuuming every day and spraying raid all over everything. I've washed everything on hot. So far so good. My only worry is my tri neoprene wetsuits. They're isolated in a bag but I can't heat treatment them. One of them is absurdity expensive. Can I soak it in insecticide? Heat will melt the neoprene. Thx
@GuysPestSolutions2 күн бұрын
If you only got one bite in that motel, then it may not be bed bugs at all. There is a good chance that this was actually a spider bite. Spider bites usually have 2 puncture marks, and you only get one bite. Bed bug bites often appear in clusters or lines. It would be very unusual to get just one bite with bed bugs. So, at this point I would stop treating. If you start to see any activity in your home, then do the full treatment, but I suspect that you will be okay. It sounds like you dodged a bullet. I will be coming out with a video in the next few weeks on how to inspect hotel rooms for bed bugs. If you subscribe to my channel, you will be notified when it posts. You should always inspect hotel/motel rooms for bed bugs and German roaches. I will be doing video on both. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@raymonddavis13703 күн бұрын
How toxic are these mixtures you recommend we sleep on?
@GuysPestSolutions2 күн бұрын
Keep in mind that you will be bagging the mattresses. So, you won't be sleeping on any of these materials. That being said, all of the pesticides are safe for children to play on after they dry. I'm not saying you should sit on them or sleep on them, but they are not all that hazardous after they dry. If you follow the procedures exactly as I explained them in the video, you will have total success, and it will be perfectly safe. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@BigPrincessSam3 күн бұрын
How do I know there is a infestation in the millions? For me, I think about genetic mutations. Genetic mutations occur about every 1 million replications. An albino roach is a genetic mutation, so rest assured if you see one of those, it’s within the millions!
@susieq51713 күн бұрын
I have teeny tiny white &red "crumbs" on my bed after we sleep.plus bites. I've never seen any bugs but we're getting bite. I bought Crossfire and diatomaceous earth but it doesn't work.ive cleaned so well, everything u said,ive done.yet still "crumbs" like Italian seasoning still in my bed.can u help me?😢
@GuysPestSolutionsСағат бұрын
That's very strange. Did you vacuum, steam, and treat everything with the recommended products, and did you put the mattress and boxspring in a bed bug proof mattress bag? Did you vacuum, steam, and treat the bed frame? Did you place sticky traps under the legs of the bed? Is the headboard removed and the bed pulled at least 6 inches away from the wall? If you did all of these things, then I don't see how anything could be getting into your bed. If you eliminated all the pests from the bed, box spring, and frame, and placed sticky traps under the legs, then there is no way for them to climb up on the bed anymore, so you should not be having a problem. If you have not done the full treatment, then I suggest that you watch the video again and do everything exactly as shown in the video. If you still have the problem, then send me a photo of this material. You can send photos to [email protected]. Please give me your KZread name when you email me. Do not take the photo with an iPhone because they are not good with close up photography. Androids are way better at this. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and use that same technique to photograph this material. Let me know if this stuff is sticking to the sheets or if it's kind of loose and easy to move with your finger. I hope that helps. Be well SusieQ. Video on how to photograph a bug: kzread.info/dash/bejne/e2ylxphsmLucqZs.html
@susieq5171Сағат бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanku for writing me back. A big YES to everything you said and more! I bought the Insect interceptor traps for the bed frame. I'll email you after I watch ur video. Thanks again for your help
@tiedyem2703 күн бұрын
Thank you for this video. I hope you had a good cruise. My question: we have never seen an ant, or bug of any type IN the house, but today, we put a raw piece of meat on the back porch and it was swarmed in minutes by hundreds of the red carpenter ants, seemingly coming from the roofed area over the porch. Should we still treat the whole inside of the house , or might we get away with just treating the porch area (including the roof over it) ? I have been using the Taurus sc around the outside of the house for the past two years....
@GuysPestSolutions2 күн бұрын
Are you sure these are carpenter ants? If so, do you live in Florida? If the answer to both questions is yes, then you have Florida carpenter ants. They are not like the black carpenter ants because they usually do not tunnel through wood. They can, but they usually don't. Most of the time they colonize in the soffits around the roof. They do not eat wood the way termites do, so they must forage for food. If you treat the house with Taurus SC every 3 months, as I show in the video, then new ants will not be able to colonize in the home. It is important to spray the soffits. If you have places that are too high to reach, you can use a hose end sprayer and switch to Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do that. The beginning of the video shows you how to use Bifen IT in a tank sprayer, but the latter part of the video talks about treating high up places with a hose end sprayer. If you go with Bifen, then you should treat every 60 days. That's what I do. The hose end sprayer is super-fast, so I treat everything with it. The inside of the house should be treated as shown in the video. The place where they were eating the meat would make a great place to put some bait. Just put some protein bait in jar cap and leave it there. Also put some sweet bait in a jar cap and put it right next to the protein bait. While those Florida carpenter ants do need to go, they almost never do damage to your home. Of course, if I'm wrong about you living in Florida, then disregard everything I just said and send a photo of one of these guys to [email protected]. Please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug before taking the photo. It needs to be done a certain way for me to identify the species. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your home with Bifen products: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html Video on how to properly photograph a bug: kzread.info/dash/bejne/e2ylxphsmLucqZs.html
@joanm36822 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for your very comprehensive reply. Yes, I live in Florida and yes they are definitely the Florida Carpenter ants. They have that red body. And yes I already watched your video and I have purchased the attachment so I could use my hose to spray that less viscous insecticide on them. So that's exactly what I'll do. And I bought the bait both kinds and the bait trap so I will put them out as soon as they come. Once again, thank you so much for your videos. I refer all my friends in Florida to watch them. I hope you find it satisfying to be able to help so many people even after your retirement. And I hope your KZread channel starts providing some cash for you as well!!
@marie25113 күн бұрын
Going to try this tonight after cleaning my bathroom thoroughly. 👌🏽
@GuysPestSolutions2 күн бұрын
That's great. The only reason this will not work is if you have a closet seal under the toilet that is compromised. That means you have flies coming from the area where the toilet meets the floor. If that is the case, then that seal needs to be replaced. I do have a temporary fix for that, so let me know if that is the case and I will share it with you. I left it out of the video because it was running long. People are already complaining that the video is too long. I figured that would be the case, so the toilet fix ended up on the cutting room floor. We live in a TikTok world today where everyone wants all the problems in the world solved in 2 minutes or less. Not an easy bar to get over. The closet seal under the toilet notwithstanding, your flies will be gone after 1 or 2 treatments. I hope that helps. Be well Marie.
@pamelarico45893 күн бұрын
Hello hi i was wondering if you can help me out when i bough my house i had active termites on my deck and well we decided to pull it off and treat the new deck and the house!! Well now this year we saw in our front porch we have a brick wall and we have seen some dirt on the floor and by the windows so we think they are termites not sure if they are or not!! We had ppl come and check our house and they always tell us to treat it cuz we have some paths on the crawling spcae bla bla we have check and nothing on the crawling space!! No one tell us anything about the front porch. Even though we have asked about it straight up. Now my husband moved a box and we found active termites making their colony inside the box!! We clean the wall and burn the box!! We want to treat our house since all this companies want 2-3k but no one give me answers!! Im in nashville Tn and my house its 2500 sq ft
@GuysPestSolutions2 күн бұрын
Thank you so much for reaching out to me. I'm so sorry that you are having this problem, but I think I can help you out. The first thing I would like you to do is to calm down and relax. The truth is that you only have one species of termites in Tennessee that is of any serious concern. That particular species happens to be very slow eaters, and it takes them a long time to do significant damage. So, this is not quite as bad as you may imagine it to be. It would have been a good idea to let them go on eating that box because, if you take their food supply away, then they are simply going to find another one, which is most likely going to be your house. You would have been better off just letting the box stay where it was. Also, we could have turned that box into a bait station that would help kill off the termites. No matter though, because this species is very easy to treat. The important thing to understand about subterranean termites is that they do not colonize in your home. They always colonize in the ground. Your house just happens to be their favorite restaurant. So, they must return home to the colony fairly often to feed the other termites and to obtain the moisture they need to survive. Therefore, all you need to do to treat them is to treat the perimeter of your house on the outside. The only exception to this would be if you have mud tubes in direct contact with the ground in the crawl space. So, someone needs to go under there and have a look. If there are no mud tubes in contact with the ground under the house, then this is a very easy problem to solve. You may be able to do this with termite granules. The granules cost about $50, and it takes about an hour to apply them. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you use the granules, keep in mind that you should apply them every year to maintain protection against termites. That's what I do with my house. Please get back to me if you have mud tubes under the house that are in direct contact with the ground, and I will explain how to do the treatment. If the crawl space has a dirt floor, then you need to cover it with polyethene plastic and you need to seal it to the foundation. This will prevent termites from starting a colony under the house. So, if there are no mud tubes under the house, you can solve this problem yourself for under $100. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
@billy-ln9wj4 күн бұрын
Hi Guy, big appreciation to your another excellent video, may I have my question please. I am in Canada, there is shipping restriction of Bora-Care, do you have any alternatives? And also, do you think boric-acid powder is a good one ?? if it is, how to use it? Thanks in advance
@billy-ln9wj3 күн бұрын
I watched your other videos and got the answers of the last two questions, but still the first one: In Canada, is there any alternatives of Bora-Care??
@GuysPestSolutions2 күн бұрын
I'm afraid that there really aren't any good alternatives to Bore-Care. There aren't even any good alternatives to it in the US. There are other products that claim to do a similar job, but the problem is that they do not penetrate very deep into the wood the way Bore-Care does. For example, you could buy Harris termite powder, but it will not penetrate the wood very far, and I don't know if you can get it shipped to Canada either. Products like the Harris termite powder will give you some protection with regard to preventing termites, but will do nothing to treat an existing infestation. You can find it on Amazon. It is possible that you can get Bora-Care shipped to you if you order it from uspestsupply.com. They used to ship some products to Canada. I do not know if they still do that, but it's worth having a look. There is a chance that they may ship Bore-Care to you. All of that being said, you should know that you do not have drywood termites where you live. Drywood termites cannot survive in Canada. The only termites you have there are subterranean. There are also dampwood termites in Canada, but they typically are not a threat to homes. Subterranean termites are usually treated from the ground. Please watch my video on how to trench for subterranean termites. Your problem will still be obtaining the pesticide that you need. If you live reasonably close to the US, I know of some Canadians that simply cross the border to purchase the supplies they need. I am sure that they do not check every car at the border, and they are mostly looking for drugs or maybe even guns. Still, if you do that, you may want to repackage the pesticide. Also, do not purchase more than you think you will need. Keep in mind that you cannot buy pesticides in New York. Also, there are not many stores in the US where this material can be purchased, so you need to have it shipped to somebody in the US, who lives in a state where it is legal for unlicensed applicators to buy it. They certainly do make it hard for you, but it can be done if you are tenacious. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
@billy-ln9wjКүн бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions OH MY, I am so so grateful to your such a detailed mentoring, and have watched your "how to trench for subterranean termites" video twice, I will watch more times, and ask questions later. Thank you so much.
@ed90954 күн бұрын
Hi, Guy! I purchased the Chapin hose end sprayer to apply some Bifen XTS. At the highest point my eaves sit at 23 feet and, unfortunately, the hose end sprayer was unable to reach even while standing on a ladder. I could position myself right under the eaves and possibly reach that area but there's a significant amount of splash from using the hose end sprayer and didn't want to end up drenched in Bifen. If I'm going to do this on a regular basis I don't mind investing in something like a backpack sprayer with, possibly, an extended wand? For example, I've seen that Solo makes a wand that extends from 4 - 7.5 feet. Do you have any recommendations for backpack sprayers, wands, etc., or another solution for reaching high spots? Thanks and much appreciated.
@GuysPestSolutions2 күн бұрын
Gosh. The hose end sprayer should reach at least 25 feet. You would need to have some really low water pressure not to be able to reach 23 feet. Do you have the sprayer in the stream setting? If so, check to make sure that the water is coming out of the spigot at full force and make sure that there are no kinks or restrictions in the garden hose. There could also be a defect in the sprayer. If you like, you can email a photo of the house to me and maybe even a short video of the sprayer in operation. I would love to see exactly what is going on. You can send photos and a video to [email protected]. If you decide to go with the Solo extension wand, then you may also want to go with a Solo sprayer. They make a backpack sprayer that puts out as much as 90 PSI. That's about as good as it gets with tank sprayers. It is also reasonably priced, and I think Amazon has it now on sale for about $100. I will give you a link to it. Please note that I have not used this sprayer myself. I looked it up on Amazon and it would be the one I would go with, just based on the specs. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Solo tank sprayer: www.amazon.com/4-Gallon-Professional-Backpack-Sprayer-Pressure/dp/B00002N6BW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LU10ARARFFMH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.L8qK8b1qtifGzQWl7LKp2q9KIrXHBRuia8xWT7D9UyHwbWutdt43y9lrf8ERBxegd4p8Hgs4qGrWKrtC9c0aFOpKAbO0c7B-Cp5ZONgDlENb_O3oi2Q2lh4EPwl2sz7CLZQngbT3SNuB-o-fzSPxulRSPISZBPs9qbr98QTcKGf_OxrulfCm0jc9honQHFJek8Mb-JPtNeoarh-iNGNrCl5ANlQMH0f_-YouF6q18wOY8GeMlesaM_qATcKUj8_SzQxdfduRwDIlvB5Mz5IV6pXUFJ79u3OtdZMwUPZFvac.zT5R0l2WjuaaHyOjWrOeJ_72gFwKrkz70NEmU_-sEH8&dib_tag=se&keywords=solo%2Bsprayer&qid=1718618859&sprefix=solo%2Bspraye%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-1&th=1
@ed9095Күн бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions The hose end sprayer went into the trash that same day. I had it on the correct setting, just wasn't reaching where I needed. I've been looking into different sprayers and right now the My4Sons sprayer is looking pretty good. They also have a 19.5 foot telescoping wand that will provide a vertical range of 30 feet. Will put in more research time but this is looking promising. Thanks!
@cheese71194 күн бұрын
Mister, please answer my questions! 1. Is it true they can crawl in your ears at night? 2. I just saw a baby roach in my bedroom, what should I do? Is there a nest nearby? If so where? 3. I live in Europe in a block of flats, are my walls also full of cockroaches? Thank you
@GuysPestSolutions3 күн бұрын
I am so sorry you are having this problem. It sounds like you have German cockroaches. It is possible for them to go into your ears, but it is uncommon for that to happen. If you see one in your bedroom, then you have a serious infestation and they most likely are in the walls as well as other hiding places. They can be in your box spring or any furniture that you have. They are most likely all over the place and in any number of things. I have a video that will show you how to treat the infestation effectively, but the problem you will have is that the EU has banned the sale of all pesticides to unlicensed operators. So, you cannot purchase any of the products you need. I have some alternatives, but you need to email me at [email protected] for me to explain everything to you. It's too long to post here. KZread will delete it. Just ask for my recommendations for German cockroaches for people who live in the EU and let me know that you live in an apartment. You also must watch my video on how to eliminate German cockroaches, so that you know how to apply everything correctly. This must be done the right way, or it will not work. Do not skip through the video. It's long, but it's long for a reason. There is a lot to know if you want to beat these guys. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to eliminate German cockroaches: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eKOspaRuoa-2faQ.html
@Saffie_Anderson4 күн бұрын
Hey Guy, a treasure as always. I found a small mud tube where the concrete meets the soil about a few inches. I sprinkled the granules with Imacloprid. I’m also going to to the trench treatments with Taurus SC, no signs inside the house and the house is concrete blocks Will that suffice sir? All this stuff gives me anxiety, thanks for your unwavering support to us poor folk 😊
@GuysPestSolutions3 күн бұрын
There is a good chance that the granules will work without trenching. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules were not a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. I have used the granules lots of times and they have never failed me. If you meet the above conditions, then there is a very good chance you are good to go. Keep in mind that both the granules and trenching take up to 12 weeks to work. Also, the granules do not work for Formosan termites. If you don't know the species, please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html
@kindlycat67705 күн бұрын
Any advice on treatment indoor medium termite presence..thanks
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html
@kindlycat67704 күн бұрын
@GuysPestSolutions looks like we have eastern subterraneans..thanks for advice
@GuysPestSolutions3 күн бұрын
Nice job. Well done. You are in luck because Eastern subs are easy to get rid of. The granules will work for about 95% of homes. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
@kindlycat67703 күн бұрын
Thanks for quick response..one more question: what if house surrounding by tiles ?( front and back..sides I can use granules )
@GuysPestSolutions21 сағат бұрын
@@kindlycat6770 Please send photos of all sides of the house from the building to the property line and I will have a look to see if you can use the granules and I will advise you on the best way to do it. You can send photos to [email protected]. Please allow a few days for me to look at them because I am still about 3 days backed up on emails. They are coming in almost as fast as can I answer them. It's like 2 steps forward and 1 step back. I should be caught up by the end of the week. At least that's the hope. Please give me you KZread name when you email. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@Chris1germann5 күн бұрын
Guy, I did a perimeter spray of house and concrete edges along house for what I thought was ant activity. It was some ants but I killed some winged termites as well. I did spray the eves at the same time as well. It was a thrin product. I live in Ohio. Just looking for my next move. Don't see any activity other than the one location by my garage where they died.No activity in exposed wood that I can see but will fine tooth comb this weekend. Looking for my next move. Any advice would help
@GuysPestSolutionsСағат бұрын
Termites in Ohio are easy. The granules should work well for you. Just keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. To find out if termites are a problem, I recommend that you inspect your house. Please watch my video on how to inspect your home for termites. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to inspect your home for termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oXuto7iNZ73fotI.html
@ConnieAlston-qf2mm5 күн бұрын
I have ROACHES TWO KIND OF THEM PLEASE HELP ME
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
Do you know the species? If not, please have a look at my video on how to identify cockroach species. Different species get treated differently, so it is important to identify the species you are dealing with. I hope that helps. Be well Connie. Video on how to identify cockroach species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eIJrrNt7frbVn7w.html
@user-qw2ry4vc8c5 күн бұрын
Hi Guy! A termite company identified drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace. Besides tent fumigation, how effective are chemical free solutions for drywood termites like heat tenting? Any downside to heat tenting? I'm already living in my home and want to explore other options too. I heard you say spot treatment is less effective -- the little buggers travel and often not visible. Thanks so much!
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it. The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites. Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html
@user-qw2ry4vc8cКүн бұрын
Very helpful. Thank you.
@user-qw2ry4vc8c6 күн бұрын
Hi Guy, very helpful content! For dry wood termites, I heard you say only viable solution if hiring an expert is fumigation treatment due to spot treatment being ineffective / won't know where all the drywood termites have traveled to. Besides fumigation, are you familiar with heat tenting that raises the temperature to eliminate the drywall termites? Is heat tenting effective? Are there any downsides to heat tenting? FYI, I have drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace and already live in my home. I would like to understand chemical free options too like heat tenting treatment. Thanks so much for your advice.
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it. The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites. Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html
@scottbrown21326 күн бұрын
BED BUGS LIVES MATTER..🙈🕵😂
@JunieCollerd6 күн бұрын
Amazing and so interesting!!! My live oak trees and one fruitless mulberry have carpenter ants on them. Do I still only go up a foot or two or do I spray the trees as high as I can with the chemical? Should I also put Advance Granular Carpenter Ant Bait around the bottom of the trees? I also had a swarm of them in my front yard the other evening. They were all over the grass and sidewalks around the house. There were solid black ones, red & black ones and flying ones. I am fixing to sell my home and don't want the new owners to have problems. I called an exterminator and they came that evening and just sprayed the grass and sidewalks. I am still seeing ants here and there both on the ground, house, front door, bathroom. I am so nervous about having them.
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
You can spray up the tree as far as you like. The higher the better. For maximum effect, I would treat the entire yard. You can do this with a hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do it. You can use this same product to treat the trees and the house. It seems expensive, but you only mix it 1/3 ounce per gallon, so it goes a long way. This will kill any carpenter ants that are in your yard. No need to use a bait. Make sure that those flying ants are really ants and not termites. I have a video on how to tell the difference. I hope that helps. Be well Junie. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html Video on how to tell carpenter ants from termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/l6J-srVmmJqWctY.html
@10nessee6 күн бұрын
do i have to drill holes in every wall of the house
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
That is correct. All wall voids need to be treated. You need to drill between every stud, and you need to treat above and below windows. If you miss a breeding area, the roaches may very well find it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@10nesseeКүн бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks very much
@mtbbiker64016 күн бұрын
I found a mud tube on a wall about 4 feet up in my garage. It was similar to a drop tube but located on drywall wall not a ceiling. It was only attached at one anchor point and a few inches long. It was essentially separated and hanging from the wall and only attached at one end. I live in Phoenix. Could you explain what this might be and how to spot treat? I injected Termidor foam around the area of the tub behind the drywall and also behind the baseboards below it. Should I remove the tube and inject directly into the hole? Do subterranean termites build mud tubes behind the drywall or only area exposed to light? Thank you for this wonderful channel! subscribed and liked.
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
Subterranean termites build lots of mud tubes behind drywall. The first thing you should do is try to obtain a specimen. You have Formosan termites there and they are very aggressive eaters and can destroy your home in a matter of months. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard to do. Regardless of the species, you should trench around the perimeter of the building. If these are Formosan termites, then you may also need to do some treatment inside the house. That is why it is important to identify the species. Formosan termites can colonize in your home, so trenching is often not enough. You will need to obtain a specimen with a red head. You may find one in that mud tube. Remove the mud tube and carefully dig through it to see if you can find one. If you watch the video, you will know immediately which species you are dealing with. If they are not Formosan, then simply trench the house and that's it. If they are Formosan, then get back to me and I will guide you further. After removing the mud tube, you can shoot some Termidor Foam into the hole. Give it about a 5 second shot. If it comes back out at you, stop applying it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html Video on how to trench your house for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
@mtbbiker6401Күн бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi. I collected the tube but there were no termites in the tube. I injected Termidor foam. Should I fill the hole or leave them open to see if they rebuild the tube? I'm hoping to capture one to determine species. I also plan to purchase a moisture sensor to check areas in my wall for cartons.
@herbstava6 күн бұрын
Had to subscribe after watching this. Great video! Very comprehensive. I have a question for you- what are your thoughts on the pesticide from big box stores. I won’t name specific names but I’m sure you know the brands I’m talking about. They’re so much cheaper so they’re very attractive. Do they work at all? Or is this stuff really worth the extra cost? Thanks!
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
The pesticides from the big box stores are pretty much useless. The concentrated ones that you mix with water have very low concentrations of the actual pesticide. That is why they are so cheap. You are basically buying water. You would need to mix it way stronger than the label suggests, to get the same concentration as the professional products. So, using the professional products is not only more effective, but also less expensive too. There are a couple of exceptions, but it involves using amateur products off label. Raid Ant and Roach Killer is a good example. You should never use it on ants and roaches, but it's great for many other pests that are not listed on the label. Check out my video on it. More often than not, the stuff you get from the big box stores will do more harm than good and those products often make an infestation worse. So, if you want to know how to treat a specific pest, the best thing you can do is to ask me. I am always happy to explain how to treat any pest you run into. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Raid Ant and Roach Killer video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n2uekpd9qLbQY9Y.html
@dayrawls33656 күн бұрын
Hi guy. I bought my Taurus SC for trenching outside. I bought several cans of friprinol foam...do I shoot this in the holes every 16 inches apart on the studs and 4 inches above & below the crossbar before spackling over the holes in every room of the house if I determined there are termites using the scope & tapping with the rubber mallot & screwdriver method you demonstrated? I was told by Hulette Pest Control I have drywood termites & they wan't to tent, which wont solve the problem. I'm trenching to prevent my neighbors termites from visiting & Hulette coukd have missed them, the inspector was a young lazy worker
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
Thanks for reaching out to me. I normally do not recommend trenching the house unless you have subterranean termites. I think a better idea is to install monitoring stations and then bait the stations if they go off. Trenching will give you 5 to 10 years of protection, but it's a lot of work. It's fine to do. No harm in in. Just more work than you need to do. I agree with you that you should not just take the word of someone that inspects you house for termites. You should do your own inspection. I have a video that will show you how to do it correctly and it's not all that hard. You will end up doing a much better job, and you will know if you have subterranean termites and/or drywood termites. The video covers both species. Keep in mind that, just because your neighbor has subterranean termites, does not mean that you do as well. Drywood termites are different. If you neighbor has them, then I promise you that you have them too. So, let's talk a little about drywood termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. If you want to do the spot treatment, then please watch the video on how to treat drywood termites again because you may be somewhat confused about how to do it. Perfectly understandable since you have never done this before. I think you may have the inspection process confused with the treatment process. A lot of folks do get that mixed up. The inspection process and the treatment process both require that you locate each stud with a stud finder. They may not be exactly 16 inches apart all the time. To inspect, you need to locate the area between the studs and use a borescope to look inside the wall void for frass. To treat a stud that you think is infested, you need to drill holes into the stud that are 4 inches apart from the ceiling to the floor. The idea is that you don't know exactly where the gallery or galleries are located, so you go every 4 inches to make sure that you hit them all. A gallery can be as small as the size of a peanut. You most likely have termites in the ceiling joists and rafters as well, so you can see that trying to find all the galleries is pretty much impossible. If you do a good job, then you will knock out a lot of them, but even the best of the best pest controllers who do this stuff are going to miss galleries. You just need to miss one and the infestation will continue. That means you need to do this inspection process constantly because you never know which area of the house is going to become infested or when. That is why I say that the only sure way to eliminate the problem is to fumigate. I know that's not what you want to hear, but I think you contacted me because you want the truth. So, I am giving it to you straight. Please let me know if you would like to install monitoring stations around your house to detect the presence of subterranean termites and I will assist you with that. You can do it around the entire house for as little as $25, if you make them yourself, or you can buy enough of them ready made and do the entire house for around $300, depending upon the size of the house. I hope that helps. Be well Day. Video on how to inspect your home for termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oXuto7iNZ73fotI.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html
@zeroiceice0086 күн бұрын
How about ultrasound?
@GuysPestSolutions6 күн бұрын
Please watch my video where I tested these devices to see if they actually worked. This video will show you everything you need to know. Be well my friend. Video on electronic pest repellers: kzread.info/dash/bejne/p5mnzMGbm72cebA.html
@jordankeller10177 күн бұрын
How often do you need to reapply the granules?
@GuysPestSolutions6 күн бұрын
You should apply the granules annually. Keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ma2ZlJmaiKu4o7w.html
@zeeshansaeed13697 күн бұрын
Guy can I do Taurus sc spray in my attic also for general pets?
@GuysPestSolutions4 күн бұрын
I would not use Taurus SC in the attic. However, you can use Talstar P. If you treat the outside of your house every 90 days, then you will no longer have bugs in the attic or anywhere else in the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@arntrezlacy39922 сағат бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions what is the name of that b ig old tank you're using. tried the basic ones at harver freights but they always play out over time (those basic sprayers at hardware places/lowes/walmart etcc.
@arntrezlacy39921 сағат бұрын
CAN U DROP A LINK FOR THAT BIG OLD SPRAYER SIR
@GuysPestSolutionsСағат бұрын
They no longer sell that sprayer. Too bad. It's a great sprayer and it was not expensive either. I have had it for years. If you need a new sprayer, you can get a good one on Amazon for around $150, or you can do what I now do. I no longer use a tank sprayer. I just got too old to be carrying the thing around. I now use a hose end sprayer with Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do it. In the video it shows you how to use Bifen IT in a tank sprayer and that is much like the Talstar P. Later in the video I show you how to treat with the hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS. Doing it this way is 3 or 4 times faster and it's super easy. All the equipment and supplies are listed in the description of the video. If you want a good tank sprayer try the one I have a link to below. I don't own this one, but it's a good make and puts out 60 psi. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your house with Bifen products: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html Tank sprayer: www.amazon.com/Chapin-60124-Multi-Purpose-Rechargeable-Translucent/dp/B0BYB6P8J3/ref=sr_1_8?crid=X0ESEWS5ZRA7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xOjNhX6PcVj0MJ0w3o4FA5bnOCeYmxIjjQayKBunhns-OlQnm3rF1GYAi1iORd31eakc3T7FXNhcFJdstQ-i1h3834olNQCAi95xnn6ISLX1G3CZbTDF0PVGGZDI4m_tWwFQNjUF8UW7WuD7JZBuf2dPzIENPAysMHNppqjCZBAjl6hp4OrLe2t3E_AoGk32tjNwjylRP1hy6xCkIxIkyxB60YBArFLFXQGVqgRHP_E_7sWIxVtpFUrrqWOSS_rH7WXwccwFwS6wfKA58PC-OJGoS_7rEjBfL54EtsIn34Y.OvKGA4IyKinDIHdM4iW02Arag2GtiZNxs-c61I_aIcg&dib_tag=se&keywords=chapin%2Bbackpack%2Bsprayer&qid=1718819573&sprefix=chapin%2Bba%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-8&th=1
@brendancongleton60147 күн бұрын
Thank you so so much. I saw what I believe is an American roach in my room the other day, and thought it was just some gross bug and squashed it. I then thought about it a bit more and realized it was a cockroach and nearly lost it and thought my home was probably infested. But thanks to this video I found that it was a species that rarely starts an infestation and probably got in through a window or something. Thanks!
@GuysPestSolutions6 күн бұрын
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for watching and actually paying attention to what I was saying. You got it exactly right. American cockroaches almost never infest homes. They do not survive well indoors and will almost always just die on their own. Well done. You made my day. Be well my friend.
@billy-ln9wj7 күн бұрын
Hi Guy, thanks a lot for sharing, my question is can borax works as a killer? thanks
@GuysPestSolutions6 күн бұрын
Not really. There are some borate products that can be used on unfinished wood to prevent termites and even treat them, but borax is pretty much ineffective for treating an existing infestation. The only borate product that I ever recommend is Bora-Care and that must be applied to unfinished wood. The stuff you buy in the grocery store is not going to work well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@billy-ln9wj5 күн бұрын
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you very much
@GuysPestSolutionsКүн бұрын
@@billy-ln9wj You are very welcome. Be well my friend.
Пікірлер
I have both grass and termite tunnels on the wall
I keep seeing dead american roaches in the same place on my living room (sometimes babies sometimes adults) every 30-40 days on average. I dont leave clutter nor food for them. Are they coming from outside or am i dealing with an infestation? I should also mention that I had a pest control technician spray every perimeter of my house and leave some bait but that is all. I would appreciate any help thanks!
I see one roach maybe every other month. They look German but I guess they must not be since I don’t see them much. Kinda hard to tell because I only look at them closely after I’ve always squished them
How would the drilling apply to exterior walls and insulation? Wouldn't it just dust the spot of the insulation given it has no room to fall and disperse inside the wall?
You are the best. Great video. Appreciate it.
Hello Guy! This treatment works on mobile homes also? If yes, how can I apply it?
Here with katsaridaphobia trying to give myself exposure therapy. It’s not working.
Is it true,that sugar+baking soda can be used to kill carpenter ants?will exekly carpenter ants eat baking soda or they will take just sugar out?
Will this treatment stop mice from coming in also?
Hi Guy 👋🏻 I just sent you an email regarding help with an apartment. Thank you for all of your info and willingness to help us. 😊
I just responded to your email. I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Please watch this video all the way through and take notes. You must do this correctly for it to work. The apartment modifications are in the email. Be well Heather.
Q. HOW DOOMED AM I? 😬😬😬😬😬😬😬😬 I am pretty sure what I saw fall into my car while parked was a roach. Looked yellow/tan & was running like lightning into my defrost vent. 90% sure it's what I saw. I was parked near a clothing drop box/ dumpster waiting for a family member. It was only one... Ran so fast I couldn't catch it. In my vents now
Do you have any thoughts on Imidacloprid instead of Fipronil?
They both work great. The fipronil products are usually a bit less expensive. In some states you cannot buy fipronil, but they do allow imidacloprid. In other states you cannot buy imidacloprid, but you can buy fipronil. The logic of it totally escapes me. Anyway, either formulation is fine. I hope that helps. BE well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you, that helps a lot. Where I work, we have imidacloprid for treating seed in the ag industry. Thank you for your reply, and have a great day!
Hello Guy, I live in South Florida and have a couple of questions. 1. Do Subterranean termites also swarm or are swarmer's only dry wood termites? 2. If I read the instructions correctly the mixture depending on desired strength is .8 oz/gal at a rate of 4 gallons per 10 linear per foot of depth. if you want to go deeper add .08 oz for every foot of depth. Do you think it is necessary to go deeper then 1 foot?
Yes. All termites swarm. That is how they start new colonies. I don't think you ever need to go deeper than 6 inches. If you live in South Florida, then you need to make sure that you are treating for the correct species. Drywood termites get treated much differently than subterranean termites. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard. After I know the species, I can tell you exactly how to treat it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html
lol... "if listening to me is entertaining, then, maybe it might be time to expand your horizons a little..."
Yeah, I admit that I'm pretty boring. It's funny. Some people write to me to tell me that I talk too slow and I'm boring. Fair enough, but I don't understand why they think I don't already know that. My wife mentions it to me all the time. Lol. It's not like they are discovering some unknow revelation. I'm a pest controller. Not an entertainer. I figure if folks want entertainment, they need to watch TikTok. If they want to know how to eliminate a bug infestation, then watch me. That being said, there are a select few who actually like the way I talk and do binge watch my videos. For that I am most appreciative, but even I don't even watch them after I post them. Perhaps that's because I already know how to do this stuff. Anyway, thanks for watching. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
excellent! I'm all about DIY before calling/spending on a commercial solution. Thanks for sharing your knowledge & experiences. Greg [garden grove, CA usa]
Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
Hey I just purchased a house and I knew it had termites but didnt know the severity till I seen 1 mudtube in the upper part of a downstairs closet.ive seen your work (and thank you ) I want to ask a quick question. So I’ve trenched my house may 12th but wasn’t able to get to one side due to it being in my neighbors back yard. Should I be drastically worried and how do I apply fuse foam into the wall on that side? Will that even work?
Ideally, you should ask your neighbor for permission to trench that side of the house. Also, read your deed. Zero lot line homes often have exceptions in the neighbor's deed granting you access to do this sort of work. I mean, how would you paint that side of the house or do other maintenance? We are only talking about a 6-inch-wide trench. Usually there is a right of way or easement that gives you access to that side of the house. That being said, even if the right of way is in the deed, it's still a good idea to ask your neighbor. Bring some cookies over and ask nicely. Don't play the right of way card, even if it's in the deed. If you get a no answer, then thank them for their time and just do it anyway, if you have that right of way. If they call the police, have the deed handy to show the nice officer. If they seek the help of an attorney, they will be advised that you have the right to do that. In other words, do your homework and do your best to be a good neighbor. You don't want an unnecessary neighbor dispute. Being polite and kind usually gets it done. You can only treat with Fuse foam if you know where the termites are. So that will not be of help to you. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Are these chemical hazardous for humans? Sir I am very much disturbed from German roaches. I am midway to your video . I will follow your rules. Sometimes i feel like crying
I'm so sorry that you are having this problem and I understand how you feel. German cockroaches are a nightmare. None of the products shown in this video are hazardous to humans after they are dry. However, you do need to wear some protective equipment while you are applying the products. It is a good idea to always wear rubber gloves and eye protection. When applying dust or when spraying any liquids, it is also a good idea to wear respirator. The idea is that you don't want to be breathing this stuff in or getting it in your eyes. However, after the dust settles and everything is dry, then you can touch any of these materials without fear of getting ill. In fact, all of these materials a safe for children to play on after they are dry. The only exception would be the dust. You should only apply the dust in areas that will not be disturbed by people, pets, or air currents. Other than that, you will be just fine. If you live in an apartment, then please email me at [email protected]. There is additional information that you should have if you live in an apartment. I cannot share it here because KZread will most likely delete it. I have no idea why they do that, but it seems to happen a lot these days. When you email, please give me your KZread name, and simply ask for the German cockroach instructions for apartments. Please allow a couple of days for me to answer your email because I am a bit backed up with emails right now. I was on vacation for 2 weeks and I was not able to answer any emails during that time. I'm quickly getting caught up, but I am still about 3 days behind. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Hi there guy I live in a one bedroom apartment 2 weeks ago I discovered on my indoor grill crockpot air fryer oven micro refrigerator bugs from dishwasher & bathroom sink In bedroom at night can see white larvae hopping on carpet not sure if same larvae but In medicine cabinet bottom shelf rusty they left residue on my waterpik got into my denture cleanser my denture cream ouch when Squeezed some 4 my dentures top part what is stinging got into my body wash Yikes they sent bug man over but I guess girls at office didn’t say he may have infestation all he did was spray and could barely smell it when got home I tried explaining my sister inside shelves see they orange they larvae on my plastic sealed containers she that’s not larvae that just caked in food yeah right ha ha why my phone case for iPhone chewed up smeared with larvae that tough to get off Help would be greatly appreciated Guy I sure hope moth larvae can wreck Someone’s immune system was both stem and in my 2 liter bottle of soda seen organisms moving around this all freaking me out cause they also near baseboards too not many are educated on Larvae but they can do damage even ladies at office tell sis where’s the bugs duh come to apartment and see 4 yourself you’d have be very clever to find the culprit moth maybe you know a good diy solution to get rid all this mess
That's a tough one. Larvae can be from different species. Usually though you also see adults. Think about it for a minute. Where did the larvae come from? You can't get offspring unless you have a parent. So, are you seeing any moths, flies, beetles, or that sort of thing? If you are, then please tell me what you are seeing. As a general rule, the first place to start is to get everything squeaky clean. Make sure the apartment is spotless. Larvae need to eat, so by cleaning really well, you will remove the food supply. This is especially important to do where you are seeing the larvae. The little guys need food to stay alive, so make sure that they do not have any. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
When I was In Iraq (2003) - US Army, where we had sandfleas, poisonous baby Black Cobra snakes, poisonous scorpions, and Camel spiders/like land crabs (anesthetize so you can't feel it, then eat you - creatures) in my tent (all the tents), no floors, screens, or zippered doors - like your WALMART Camping tents have. During the 1st Gulf War (1991), one guy (helicopter pilot) was sitting on the end of his cot playing a guitar, and a Camel Spider the size of an open hand, ran into the tent's entrance making a cloud of dust like the Tasmanian Devil cartoon character - they are fast, straight for him, and the guy smashed it dead with his booted foot; I guess it didn't like the Country music he was playing, or a big fan and wanted an autograph? Or the music sound made the Camel Spider think he was a fresh Camel meal? (Camel spiders crawl through the sand and get under sleeping Camels, then eat their way up inside the Camels, killing them and laying eggs for a new batch - why they are called "CAMEL SPIDERS"). Boots had flea collars around the ankles to fend them off when walking about and prevent bites/diseases (One piece Flight Suit legs don't tucked into boots - for fire safety purposes) and hung boots up when not wearing from the tent's support poles overhead to keep crawling critters out of them. Changed clothes, took off or put on boots, and slept on steel leg cots, lower part before crossing - cot's legs wrapped with inverted (sticky side out) military duct tape, and slept inside the outer 6-handle-nylon bag layer of body bags, that could fully zip up (a little hard to un-zipper from the inside - reckon why). And kept cots away from the walls! I went back to my unit HQ in Mosul from the Telafar Air Base (up near Syria), put my kitbag bag (my personal clothes and supplies; canvas military luggage) on the floor, opened it, and went to the latrine (porta-potty). When I came back, my buddies told me that the biggest black Scorpion they ever saw crawled out of my bag, and they scared it out the door of the concrete barracks back into the desert! Yeah, I gotta visit sunny Iraq twice 12 years apart, for x2 Wars Vacations - courtesy of Uncle Sam! Yikes! Bed Bugs - child's play!
Thank you for sharing that story and thank you for your service. Both are greatly appreciated. I think I will stay in the good old USA. Be well my friend.
Wow! That is crazy! It's almost like you'd have to literally shoot the bugs away instead of shooin the bugs. U are very brave and my family and I thanku for your service. I suppose you could bring back a dead camel spider if no one believed u or as a souvenir.
Guy, will this method work for other roach species? Iv only seen 4, 1 with an egg hanging out, but I'm not certain of the species. Let's assume worst case scenario...
I replied to this, but KZread deleted it. They do that sometimes. Please email me at [email protected] and ask your question there. Please provide your KZread name when you email. Sorry about that. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions will do, soon. Thx guy😁
Great video. I'm going to purchase the moisture sensor. If I do find a carton, should I foam it first to kill off the colony and then remove it? Also, is it possible to have inactive cartons after treatment? Does the moisture sensor only detect active cartons since they are moist? I suspect an inactive carton would be dry.
Keep in mind that the moisture meter does not specifically detect cartons. The moisture meter detects moisture. There are other reasons why the moisture meter may show a higher reading, other than cartons. Also, it can sometimes be difficult to find all the cartons with the moisture meter because the carton may not be in contact with the drywall that you are testing. Therefore, you may only get a very slight reading that is higher than normal. So, any deviation in the reading, no matter how slight, should be investigated with the borescope. I think it is possible to run into a carton that is not active. However, I honestly do not know if an inactive carton will contain enough moisture to be detected by the moisture meter. It is unclear to me exactly how those cartons obtain and store the moisture that is needed for the termites. I have never been trained on that aspect of it, and there isn't a lot of information out there about it either. As best as I can tell, worker termites most likely obtain moisture from the environment and bring it back to the carton. The material that the carton is made of has the ability to hold moisture for some time, without additional moisture being added. In other words, it has moisture retaining properties. Theoretically, if the carton is inactive, then you would think that, eventually, it will dry out. However, I am unclear if this will happen, or how quickly it would happen. In any event, if you do not detect any moisture whatsoever, then you most likely would not explore further with the borescope. If you do detect moisture, and the borescope confirms the existence of a carton, then you would not really know if it was active or not, so you would need to remove it anyway. So, while that is an interesting scientific question, I don't know that obtaining a definitive answer to it serves any practical purpose. There are many pest controllers who either do not mess with the cartons at all, or they try to treat them without removing them. Personally, I think both of those approaches are inadequate, and I have seen cases where pest controllers have done this, and it resulted in serious damage to the building. Those cartons can remain healthy for some time, so in my judgment, those things need to be removed. Therefore, I would not waste time trying to treat one before I removed it. I think the best thing to do is to remove the drywall to gain access to the carton, and then remove the carton. I understand that this is expensive, but it is also expensive to repair the damage that is going to be done by these guys if the carton is not removed. Then, you still need to repair the damage after you remove the carton. So, my advice is to never mess with these guys. They are very destructive, so they need to go. The only sure-fire way to do that is to open up the wall and remove the carton. At least, that is the way it seems to me. I'm not saying it is not possible to be successful treating a carton without opening up the wall, but I think it's a bit like playing Russian roulette. It certainly is not a sure thing, and I don't know how you would ever tell if you were successful in killing that carton before observing more damage. If you do remove the wall covering to expose the carton, I would see no reason to treat it prior to removing it. However, I would treat the cartons outside before disposing of them in the trash. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your help. I plan to purchase the moisture meter and borescope in your video links. I certainly understand the urgency of removing the carton since Formosans are very destructive but also worried about the termites that will escape into other parts of the wall during the removal. Plus there would be other termites outside the carton that are foraging. Would they return to the carton area and be exposed to the fipronil treatment I would place after removing the carton?
Will this work for tennis shoes and other shoes without melting the glue?
Hmmmm. I usually treat shoes with an aerosol pesticide, but I suppose if there is no metal, then you can try microwaving them. Start with 20 or 30 seconds to see if there is any damage. If not, then try 40 seconds. If you are still good, try 60 seconds. That will probably kill the roaches, but you can go longer to see what happens. Just take it in baby steps and if you see any damage happening at all, then stop. Tennis shoes do not contain water, so make sure you put half a cup of water in the microwave. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Actually for bed bugs but same concept. Will try with an older pair and see how ot goes. Appreciate all your time and help. @GuysPestSolutions
You are very welcome. This should work for bed bugs too. If you have not done so already, please watch my video on how to treat a bed bug infestation. There are a lot of videos out there on how to treat bed bugs, but I have never seen one that showed you everything that you need to do. They all seem to provide just part of the necessary treatments. If you do it my way, those bed bugs will be gone for sure. I wish you well with it. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat a bed bug infestation: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eXeeuM6rdsm6n6Q.html
Guy - Great video as always. I have a slightly different question regarding subterranean termites. A contractor recently installed two 6x6 pressure treated posts to support a roof extension over a patio. He set the posts about 2-3 ft. In the ground and set them in concrete; however, they are not completely encased in cement. I am wondering if I should take any steps to prevent future termite damage. I live in the New Orleans area.
I am not a licensed contractor in New Orleans, but I would be very surprised if those post installations would pass building codes. In my opinion, the way that job should be done is that a concrete pier should be installed in the ground under the post and that pier should extend above the ground level by a few inches. This is usually accomplished by digging a hole and inserting a hollow cardboard tube into the hole and then filling it with concrete and perhaps some rebar. When it dries, the post should be placed on top of the concrete. The reason it is done this way has nothing to do with termites. The way those posts are installed, they will withstand sideloads pretty well, but I would have a problem with the vertical loads. That is to say, it is possible that the posts may settle and sink because of the way they were installed. Again, I'm not a contractor, but I have done a lot of this work, and that is the way I would do it. That being said, the posts that were used were most likely rated for ground contact. Of course, I have no way of knowing if that's what the contractor used, but it would be really horrible if he didn't. Pressure treated wood that is rated for ground contact isn't entirely termite proof, but it is very unlikely that it will be attacked by termites. If the posts are not rated for ground contact, then I would treat them with Bora-Care prior to painting or sealing them in any way. This product must be applied to bare wood. Even if the posts are rated for ground contact, it still wouldn't be a bad idea to treat them with Bora-Care. I will give you a link to the product and a link to a video on how to use it. I recommend that you mix it 1 to 1 with water instead of 1 to 5. Also, it is perfectly okay to mix it with cold water. I do it all the time. For small jobs, you can mix a half a cup of product with a half a cup of water. You're supposed to mix it with a drill and a paint mixer attachment, but when I am mixing small amounts, I generally just use a mixing stick that you would use for mixing paint. Keep in mind that if the posts are not ground rated, or if they are ground rated and get attacked anyway, then if any part of those posts are not encased in concrete under the ground, then the termites can enter and tunnel their way up right up the center of the post to the roof structure above. Again, you are probably going to be okay from pest control point of view, if the posts are rated for ground contact. The only other issue would be that the posts may eventually rot and then fail. You see that all the time with fence posts that fail right at the dirt line. If water sits up against the post every time it rains, then that can make the post start to rot at ground level. I think it would take a very long time before that post would fail, but again, I think it should have been placed on top of a concrete pier. I hope that helps. We will my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?sub_id=554 Bora-Care video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKGmwcN-n8ffmMo.html
Thanks for responding to my question. It’s really gratifying to see someone with your depth of experience be willing to take up so much of your personal time in sharing your experience and expertise to help complete strangers like me. Folks like you are a rarity in today’s world. Thanks again and God bless you for being so generous.
You are very welcome. That is so nice of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.
I think I just got infected. I got a two dot bite after staying in a cheap motel. I've been vacuuming every day and spraying raid all over everything. I've washed everything on hot. So far so good. My only worry is my tri neoprene wetsuits. They're isolated in a bag but I can't heat treatment them. One of them is absurdity expensive. Can I soak it in insecticide? Heat will melt the neoprene. Thx
If you only got one bite in that motel, then it may not be bed bugs at all. There is a good chance that this was actually a spider bite. Spider bites usually have 2 puncture marks, and you only get one bite. Bed bug bites often appear in clusters or lines. It would be very unusual to get just one bite with bed bugs. So, at this point I would stop treating. If you start to see any activity in your home, then do the full treatment, but I suspect that you will be okay. It sounds like you dodged a bullet. I will be coming out with a video in the next few weeks on how to inspect hotel rooms for bed bugs. If you subscribe to my channel, you will be notified when it posts. You should always inspect hotel/motel rooms for bed bugs and German roaches. I will be doing video on both. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How toxic are these mixtures you recommend we sleep on?
Keep in mind that you will be bagging the mattresses. So, you won't be sleeping on any of these materials. That being said, all of the pesticides are safe for children to play on after they dry. I'm not saying you should sit on them or sleep on them, but they are not all that hazardous after they dry. If you follow the procedures exactly as I explained them in the video, you will have total success, and it will be perfectly safe. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
How do I know there is a infestation in the millions? For me, I think about genetic mutations. Genetic mutations occur about every 1 million replications. An albino roach is a genetic mutation, so rest assured if you see one of those, it’s within the millions!
I have teeny tiny white &red "crumbs" on my bed after we sleep.plus bites. I've never seen any bugs but we're getting bite. I bought Crossfire and diatomaceous earth but it doesn't work.ive cleaned so well, everything u said,ive done.yet still "crumbs" like Italian seasoning still in my bed.can u help me?😢
That's very strange. Did you vacuum, steam, and treat everything with the recommended products, and did you put the mattress and boxspring in a bed bug proof mattress bag? Did you vacuum, steam, and treat the bed frame? Did you place sticky traps under the legs of the bed? Is the headboard removed and the bed pulled at least 6 inches away from the wall? If you did all of these things, then I don't see how anything could be getting into your bed. If you eliminated all the pests from the bed, box spring, and frame, and placed sticky traps under the legs, then there is no way for them to climb up on the bed anymore, so you should not be having a problem. If you have not done the full treatment, then I suggest that you watch the video again and do everything exactly as shown in the video. If you still have the problem, then send me a photo of this material. You can send photos to [email protected]. Please give me your KZread name when you email me. Do not take the photo with an iPhone because they are not good with close up photography. Androids are way better at this. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug and use that same technique to photograph this material. Let me know if this stuff is sticking to the sheets or if it's kind of loose and easy to move with your finger. I hope that helps. Be well SusieQ. Video on how to photograph a bug: kzread.info/dash/bejne/e2ylxphsmLucqZs.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Thanku for writing me back. A big YES to everything you said and more! I bought the Insect interceptor traps for the bed frame. I'll email you after I watch ur video. Thanks again for your help
Thank you for this video. I hope you had a good cruise. My question: we have never seen an ant, or bug of any type IN the house, but today, we put a raw piece of meat on the back porch and it was swarmed in minutes by hundreds of the red carpenter ants, seemingly coming from the roofed area over the porch. Should we still treat the whole inside of the house , or might we get away with just treating the porch area (including the roof over it) ? I have been using the Taurus sc around the outside of the house for the past two years....
Are you sure these are carpenter ants? If so, do you live in Florida? If the answer to both questions is yes, then you have Florida carpenter ants. They are not like the black carpenter ants because they usually do not tunnel through wood. They can, but they usually don't. Most of the time they colonize in the soffits around the roof. They do not eat wood the way termites do, so they must forage for food. If you treat the house with Taurus SC every 3 months, as I show in the video, then new ants will not be able to colonize in the home. It is important to spray the soffits. If you have places that are too high to reach, you can use a hose end sprayer and switch to Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do that. The beginning of the video shows you how to use Bifen IT in a tank sprayer, but the latter part of the video talks about treating high up places with a hose end sprayer. If you go with Bifen, then you should treat every 60 days. That's what I do. The hose end sprayer is super-fast, so I treat everything with it. The inside of the house should be treated as shown in the video. The place where they were eating the meat would make a great place to put some bait. Just put some protein bait in jar cap and leave it there. Also put some sweet bait in a jar cap and put it right next to the protein bait. While those Florida carpenter ants do need to go, they almost never do damage to your home. Of course, if I'm wrong about you living in Florida, then disregard everything I just said and send a photo of one of these guys to [email protected]. Please watch my video on how to properly photograph a bug before taking the photo. It needs to be done a certain way for me to identify the species. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your home with Bifen products: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html Video on how to properly photograph a bug: kzread.info/dash/bejne/e2ylxphsmLucqZs.html
Thank you so much for your very comprehensive reply. Yes, I live in Florida and yes they are definitely the Florida Carpenter ants. They have that red body. And yes I already watched your video and I have purchased the attachment so I could use my hose to spray that less viscous insecticide on them. So that's exactly what I'll do. And I bought the bait both kinds and the bait trap so I will put them out as soon as they come. Once again, thank you so much for your videos. I refer all my friends in Florida to watch them. I hope you find it satisfying to be able to help so many people even after your retirement. And I hope your KZread channel starts providing some cash for you as well!!
Going to try this tonight after cleaning my bathroom thoroughly. 👌🏽
That's great. The only reason this will not work is if you have a closet seal under the toilet that is compromised. That means you have flies coming from the area where the toilet meets the floor. If that is the case, then that seal needs to be replaced. I do have a temporary fix for that, so let me know if that is the case and I will share it with you. I left it out of the video because it was running long. People are already complaining that the video is too long. I figured that would be the case, so the toilet fix ended up on the cutting room floor. We live in a TikTok world today where everyone wants all the problems in the world solved in 2 minutes or less. Not an easy bar to get over. The closet seal under the toilet notwithstanding, your flies will be gone after 1 or 2 treatments. I hope that helps. Be well Marie.
Hello hi i was wondering if you can help me out when i bough my house i had active termites on my deck and well we decided to pull it off and treat the new deck and the house!! Well now this year we saw in our front porch we have a brick wall and we have seen some dirt on the floor and by the windows so we think they are termites not sure if they are or not!! We had ppl come and check our house and they always tell us to treat it cuz we have some paths on the crawling spcae bla bla we have check and nothing on the crawling space!! No one tell us anything about the front porch. Even though we have asked about it straight up. Now my husband moved a box and we found active termites making their colony inside the box!! We clean the wall and burn the box!! We want to treat our house since all this companies want 2-3k but no one give me answers!! Im in nashville Tn and my house its 2500 sq ft
Thank you so much for reaching out to me. I'm so sorry that you are having this problem, but I think I can help you out. The first thing I would like you to do is to calm down and relax. The truth is that you only have one species of termites in Tennessee that is of any serious concern. That particular species happens to be very slow eaters, and it takes them a long time to do significant damage. So, this is not quite as bad as you may imagine it to be. It would have been a good idea to let them go on eating that box because, if you take their food supply away, then they are simply going to find another one, which is most likely going to be your house. You would have been better off just letting the box stay where it was. Also, we could have turned that box into a bait station that would help kill off the termites. No matter though, because this species is very easy to treat. The important thing to understand about subterranean termites is that they do not colonize in your home. They always colonize in the ground. Your house just happens to be their favorite restaurant. So, they must return home to the colony fairly often to feed the other termites and to obtain the moisture they need to survive. Therefore, all you need to do to treat them is to treat the perimeter of your house on the outside. The only exception to this would be if you have mud tubes in direct contact with the ground in the crawl space. So, someone needs to go under there and have a look. If there are no mud tubes in contact with the ground under the house, then this is a very easy problem to solve. You may be able to do this with termite granules. The granules cost about $50, and it takes about an hour to apply them. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you use the granules, keep in mind that you should apply them every year to maintain protection against termites. That's what I do with my house. Please get back to me if you have mud tubes under the house that are in direct contact with the ground, and I will explain how to do the treatment. If the crawl space has a dirt floor, then you need to cover it with polyethene plastic and you need to seal it to the foundation. This will prevent termites from starting a colony under the house. So, if there are no mud tubes under the house, you can solve this problem yourself for under $100. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
Hi Guy, big appreciation to your another excellent video, may I have my question please. I am in Canada, there is shipping restriction of Bora-Care, do you have any alternatives? And also, do you think boric-acid powder is a good one ?? if it is, how to use it? Thanks in advance
I watched your other videos and got the answers of the last two questions, but still the first one: In Canada, is there any alternatives of Bora-Care??
I'm afraid that there really aren't any good alternatives to Bore-Care. There aren't even any good alternatives to it in the US. There are other products that claim to do a similar job, but the problem is that they do not penetrate very deep into the wood the way Bore-Care does. For example, you could buy Harris termite powder, but it will not penetrate the wood very far, and I don't know if you can get it shipped to Canada either. Products like the Harris termite powder will give you some protection with regard to preventing termites, but will do nothing to treat an existing infestation. You can find it on Amazon. It is possible that you can get Bora-Care shipped to you if you order it from uspestsupply.com. They used to ship some products to Canada. I do not know if they still do that, but it's worth having a look. There is a chance that they may ship Bore-Care to you. All of that being said, you should know that you do not have drywood termites where you live. Drywood termites cannot survive in Canada. The only termites you have there are subterranean. There are also dampwood termites in Canada, but they typically are not a threat to homes. Subterranean termites are usually treated from the ground. Please watch my video on how to trench for subterranean termites. Your problem will still be obtaining the pesticide that you need. If you live reasonably close to the US, I know of some Canadians that simply cross the border to purchase the supplies they need. I am sure that they do not check every car at the border, and they are mostly looking for drugs or maybe even guns. Still, if you do that, you may want to repackage the pesticide. Also, do not purchase more than you think you will need. Keep in mind that you cannot buy pesticides in New York. Also, there are not many stores in the US where this material can be purchased, so you need to have it shipped to somebody in the US, who lives in a state where it is legal for unlicensed applicators to buy it. They certainly do make it hard for you, but it can be done if you are tenacious. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions OH MY, I am so so grateful to your such a detailed mentoring, and have watched your "how to trench for subterranean termites" video twice, I will watch more times, and ask questions later. Thank you so much.
Hi, Guy! I purchased the Chapin hose end sprayer to apply some Bifen XTS. At the highest point my eaves sit at 23 feet and, unfortunately, the hose end sprayer was unable to reach even while standing on a ladder. I could position myself right under the eaves and possibly reach that area but there's a significant amount of splash from using the hose end sprayer and didn't want to end up drenched in Bifen. If I'm going to do this on a regular basis I don't mind investing in something like a backpack sprayer with, possibly, an extended wand? For example, I've seen that Solo makes a wand that extends from 4 - 7.5 feet. Do you have any recommendations for backpack sprayers, wands, etc., or another solution for reaching high spots? Thanks and much appreciated.
Gosh. The hose end sprayer should reach at least 25 feet. You would need to have some really low water pressure not to be able to reach 23 feet. Do you have the sprayer in the stream setting? If so, check to make sure that the water is coming out of the spigot at full force and make sure that there are no kinks or restrictions in the garden hose. There could also be a defect in the sprayer. If you like, you can email a photo of the house to me and maybe even a short video of the sprayer in operation. I would love to see exactly what is going on. You can send photos and a video to [email protected]. If you decide to go with the Solo extension wand, then you may also want to go with a Solo sprayer. They make a backpack sprayer that puts out as much as 90 PSI. That's about as good as it gets with tank sprayers. It is also reasonably priced, and I think Amazon has it now on sale for about $100. I will give you a link to it. Please note that I have not used this sprayer myself. I looked it up on Amazon and it would be the one I would go with, just based on the specs. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Solo tank sprayer: www.amazon.com/4-Gallon-Professional-Backpack-Sprayer-Pressure/dp/B00002N6BW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=LU10ARARFFMH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.L8qK8b1qtifGzQWl7LKp2q9KIrXHBRuia8xWT7D9UyHwbWutdt43y9lrf8ERBxegd4p8Hgs4qGrWKrtC9c0aFOpKAbO0c7B-Cp5ZONgDlENb_O3oi2Q2lh4EPwl2sz7CLZQngbT3SNuB-o-fzSPxulRSPISZBPs9qbr98QTcKGf_OxrulfCm0jc9honQHFJek8Mb-JPtNeoarh-iNGNrCl5ANlQMH0f_-YouF6q18wOY8GeMlesaM_qATcKUj8_SzQxdfduRwDIlvB5Mz5IV6pXUFJ79u3OtdZMwUPZFvac.zT5R0l2WjuaaHyOjWrOeJ_72gFwKrkz70NEmU_-sEH8&dib_tag=se&keywords=solo%2Bsprayer&qid=1718618859&sprefix=solo%2Bspraye%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-1&th=1
@@GuysPestSolutions The hose end sprayer went into the trash that same day. I had it on the correct setting, just wasn't reaching where I needed. I've been looking into different sprayers and right now the My4Sons sprayer is looking pretty good. They also have a 19.5 foot telescoping wand that will provide a vertical range of 30 feet. Will put in more research time but this is looking promising. Thanks!
Mister, please answer my questions! 1. Is it true they can crawl in your ears at night? 2. I just saw a baby roach in my bedroom, what should I do? Is there a nest nearby? If so where? 3. I live in Europe in a block of flats, are my walls also full of cockroaches? Thank you
I am so sorry you are having this problem. It sounds like you have German cockroaches. It is possible for them to go into your ears, but it is uncommon for that to happen. If you see one in your bedroom, then you have a serious infestation and they most likely are in the walls as well as other hiding places. They can be in your box spring or any furniture that you have. They are most likely all over the place and in any number of things. I have a video that will show you how to treat the infestation effectively, but the problem you will have is that the EU has banned the sale of all pesticides to unlicensed operators. So, you cannot purchase any of the products you need. I have some alternatives, but you need to email me at [email protected] for me to explain everything to you. It's too long to post here. KZread will delete it. Just ask for my recommendations for German cockroaches for people who live in the EU and let me know that you live in an apartment. You also must watch my video on how to eliminate German cockroaches, so that you know how to apply everything correctly. This must be done the right way, or it will not work. Do not skip through the video. It's long, but it's long for a reason. There is a lot to know if you want to beat these guys. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to eliminate German cockroaches: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eKOspaRuoa-2faQ.html
Hey Guy, a treasure as always. I found a small mud tube where the concrete meets the soil about a few inches. I sprinkled the granules with Imacloprid. I’m also going to to the trench treatments with Taurus SC, no signs inside the house and the house is concrete blocks Will that suffice sir? All this stuff gives me anxiety, thanks for your unwavering support to us poor folk 😊
There is a good chance that the granules will work without trenching. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules were not a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. I have used the granules lots of times and they have never failed me. If you meet the above conditions, then there is a very good chance you are good to go. Keep in mind that both the granules and trenching take up to 12 weeks to work. Also, the granules do not work for Formosan termites. If you don't know the species, please have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html
Any advice on treatment indoor medium termite presence..thanks
How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html
@GuysPestSolutions looks like we have eastern subterraneans..thanks for advice
Nice job. Well done. You are in luck because Eastern subs are easy to get rid of. The granules will work for about 95% of homes. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
Thanks for quick response..one more question: what if house surrounding by tiles ?( front and back..sides I can use granules )
@@kindlycat6770 Please send photos of all sides of the house from the building to the property line and I will have a look to see if you can use the granules and I will advise you on the best way to do it. You can send photos to [email protected]. Please allow a few days for me to look at them because I am still about 3 days backed up on emails. They are coming in almost as fast as can I answer them. It's like 2 steps forward and 1 step back. I should be caught up by the end of the week. At least that's the hope. Please give me you KZread name when you email. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
Guy, I did a perimeter spray of house and concrete edges along house for what I thought was ant activity. It was some ants but I killed some winged termites as well. I did spray the eves at the same time as well. It was a thrin product. I live in Ohio. Just looking for my next move. Don't see any activity other than the one location by my garage where they died.No activity in exposed wood that I can see but will fine tooth comb this weekend. Looking for my next move. Any advice would help
Termites in Ohio are easy. The granules should work well for you. Just keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. To find out if termites are a problem, I recommend that you inspect your house. Please watch my video on how to inspect your home for termites. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to inspect your home for termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oXuto7iNZ73fotI.html
I have ROACHES TWO KIND OF THEM PLEASE HELP ME
Do you know the species? If not, please have a look at my video on how to identify cockroach species. Different species get treated differently, so it is important to identify the species you are dealing with. I hope that helps. Be well Connie. Video on how to identify cockroach species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eIJrrNt7frbVn7w.html
Hi Guy! A termite company identified drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace. Besides tent fumigation, how effective are chemical free solutions for drywood termites like heat tenting? Any downside to heat tenting? I'm already living in my home and want to explore other options too. I heard you say spot treatment is less effective -- the little buggers travel and often not visible. Thanks so much!
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it. The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites. Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html
Very helpful. Thank you.
Hi Guy, very helpful content! For dry wood termites, I heard you say only viable solution if hiring an expert is fumigation treatment due to spot treatment being ineffective / won't know where all the drywood termites have traveled to. Besides fumigation, are you familiar with heat tenting that raises the temperature to eliminate the drywall termites? Is heat tenting effective? Are there any downsides to heat tenting? FYI, I have drywood termites in my attic and crawlspace and already live in my home. I would like to understand chemical free options too like heat tenting treatment. Thanks so much for your advice.
It is a fact that heat will kill drywood termites. The problem is that you need to heat the termites to a temperature of at least 120° for at least a couple of hours. This is not so easy to do because the termites are typically located in the center of the wood, and wood is a natural insulator. That means it is difficult to heat. This problem is compounded by the fact that there's often insulation surrounding the wood, not to mention drywall. Further, there will often be drywood termites located in the fascia boards, roof rafters, sheathing under the exterior siding, and other difficult places to heat. Some companies will put a tent over the house to contain the heat, but not all companies do it this way. Some companies simply attempt to heat the house from the inside. Obviously, failing to tent the house is going to fail because you are not going to adequately heat the areas I just mentioned. Even if you tent the house, it is not enough to raise the temperature to 120°. You need to get the temperature to 120° inside every single piece of wood in the entire house. So, the question becomes, “How do you know if you accomplished this?” There is no practical way to determine if the center of every piece of wood in the house reaches the desired temperature. Therefore, this process is hit and miss at best. It can be successful sometimes, but it is not a sure thing. Also, these high temperatures can cause damage to electronic equipment and that sort of thing, so those things need to be removed from the house before the treatment is performed. Keep in mind that, if you want to reach the desired temperature in the center of all the wood, the actual temperature in the building will need to be much higher than 120°. If any component in that house does not reach the desired temperature, then the process may fail because a gallery was missed. Fumigation on the other hand is a sure thing. The gas goes right through everything and there is no escaping it. The advantage of using heat is that the turnaround time is much faster, and the process is going to be much safer. However, the cost of both of these treatments is probably going to be very similar. If you fumigate, I always recommend staying out of the house for at least 7 days after they tell you it is safe to go back in. There are accidents that happen every year, and some people have died because they went into the structure too soon after the fumigation was done. If you wait an additional 7 days, then the gas will certainly be gone by that time. So, if you do it right, then fumigation is perfectly safe. I always tell people that you should plan a two-week vacation if you're going to do fumigation. If you go with heat, it is pretty much safe to go back in after the process is finished, but I think it is unlikely that this process will eliminate all the galleries. For that reason, I do not recommend using heat. My opinion has always been, and still is, that fumigation is the only sure way to eliminate drywood termites. As far as I know, there is no chemical free way of eliminating drywood termites. Both fumigation and heat treatments have no residual properties. Therefore, since your neighbors also have drywood termites, you need to do a preventive treatment on the building beginning before any treatments are done. This will ensure that you do not get reinfested. I have a video on how to do that and I'll provide a link below. This is a generic video that was created to prevent a lot of pests, but it also works to prevent drywood termites. Just ignore the part of the video that talks about treating your yard. You do not need to treat your yard for drywood termites. Simply treat the house every 60 days, and you will be good to go. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html
BED BUGS LIVES MATTER..🙈🕵😂
Amazing and so interesting!!! My live oak trees and one fruitless mulberry have carpenter ants on them. Do I still only go up a foot or two or do I spray the trees as high as I can with the chemical? Should I also put Advance Granular Carpenter Ant Bait around the bottom of the trees? I also had a swarm of them in my front yard the other evening. They were all over the grass and sidewalks around the house. There were solid black ones, red & black ones and flying ones. I am fixing to sell my home and don't want the new owners to have problems. I called an exterminator and they came that evening and just sprayed the grass and sidewalks. I am still seeing ants here and there both on the ground, house, front door, bathroom. I am so nervous about having them.
You can spray up the tree as far as you like. The higher the better. For maximum effect, I would treat the entire yard. You can do this with a hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do it. You can use this same product to treat the trees and the house. It seems expensive, but you only mix it 1/3 ounce per gallon, so it goes a long way. This will kill any carpenter ants that are in your yard. No need to use a bait. Make sure that those flying ants are really ants and not termites. I have a video on how to tell the difference. I hope that helps. Be well Junie. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html Video on how to tell carpenter ants from termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/l6J-srVmmJqWctY.html
do i have to drill holes in every wall of the house
That is correct. All wall voids need to be treated. You need to drill between every stud, and you need to treat above and below windows. If you miss a breeding area, the roaches may very well find it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions thanks very much
I found a mud tube on a wall about 4 feet up in my garage. It was similar to a drop tube but located on drywall wall not a ceiling. It was only attached at one anchor point and a few inches long. It was essentially separated and hanging from the wall and only attached at one end. I live in Phoenix. Could you explain what this might be and how to spot treat? I injected Termidor foam around the area of the tub behind the drywall and also behind the baseboards below it. Should I remove the tube and inject directly into the hole? Do subterranean termites build mud tubes behind the drywall or only area exposed to light? Thank you for this wonderful channel! subscribed and liked.
Subterranean termites build lots of mud tubes behind drywall. The first thing you should do is try to obtain a specimen. You have Formosan termites there and they are very aggressive eaters and can destroy your home in a matter of months. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard to do. Regardless of the species, you should trench around the perimeter of the building. If these are Formosan termites, then you may also need to do some treatment inside the house. That is why it is important to identify the species. Formosan termites can colonize in your home, so trenching is often not enough. You will need to obtain a specimen with a red head. You may find one in that mud tube. Remove the mud tube and carefully dig through it to see if you can find one. If you watch the video, you will know immediately which species you are dealing with. If they are not Formosan, then simply trench the house and that's it. If they are Formosan, then get back to me and I will guide you further. After removing the mud tube, you can shoot some Termidor Foam into the hole. Give it about a 5 second shot. If it comes back out at you, stop applying it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html Video on how to trench your house for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html
@@GuysPestSolutions Hi. I collected the tube but there were no termites in the tube. I injected Termidor foam. Should I fill the hole or leave them open to see if they rebuild the tube? I'm hoping to capture one to determine species. I also plan to purchase a moisture sensor to check areas in my wall for cartons.
Had to subscribe after watching this. Great video! Very comprehensive. I have a question for you- what are your thoughts on the pesticide from big box stores. I won’t name specific names but I’m sure you know the brands I’m talking about. They’re so much cheaper so they’re very attractive. Do they work at all? Or is this stuff really worth the extra cost? Thanks!
The pesticides from the big box stores are pretty much useless. The concentrated ones that you mix with water have very low concentrations of the actual pesticide. That is why they are so cheap. You are basically buying water. You would need to mix it way stronger than the label suggests, to get the same concentration as the professional products. So, using the professional products is not only more effective, but also less expensive too. There are a couple of exceptions, but it involves using amateur products off label. Raid Ant and Roach Killer is a good example. You should never use it on ants and roaches, but it's great for many other pests that are not listed on the label. Check out my video on it. More often than not, the stuff you get from the big box stores will do more harm than good and those products often make an infestation worse. So, if you want to know how to treat a specific pest, the best thing you can do is to ask me. I am always happy to explain how to treat any pest you run into. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Raid Ant and Roach Killer video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n2uekpd9qLbQY9Y.html
Hi guy. I bought my Taurus SC for trenching outside. I bought several cans of friprinol foam...do I shoot this in the holes every 16 inches apart on the studs and 4 inches above & below the crossbar before spackling over the holes in every room of the house if I determined there are termites using the scope & tapping with the rubber mallot & screwdriver method you demonstrated? I was told by Hulette Pest Control I have drywood termites & they wan't to tent, which wont solve the problem. I'm trenching to prevent my neighbors termites from visiting & Hulette coukd have missed them, the inspector was a young lazy worker
Thanks for reaching out to me. I normally do not recommend trenching the house unless you have subterranean termites. I think a better idea is to install monitoring stations and then bait the stations if they go off. Trenching will give you 5 to 10 years of protection, but it's a lot of work. It's fine to do. No harm in in. Just more work than you need to do. I agree with you that you should not just take the word of someone that inspects you house for termites. You should do your own inspection. I have a video that will show you how to do it correctly and it's not all that hard. You will end up doing a much better job, and you will know if you have subterranean termites and/or drywood termites. The video covers both species. Keep in mind that, just because your neighbor has subterranean termites, does not mean that you do as well. Drywood termites are different. If you neighbor has them, then I promise you that you have them too. So, let's talk a little about drywood termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they establish their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. I always hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you have drywood termites, the only sure way to get rid of them is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry, so I recommend that you watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. That video can save you a lot of money. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. This is a generic video that covers a lot of different pests, but it also works for preventing drywood termites. Just ignore the part about treating your yard. You only need to treat the house for drywood termites. This will not treat the termites that are already there, but it will stop new ones from getting in. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. If you want to do the spot treatment, then please watch the video on how to treat drywood termites again because you may be somewhat confused about how to do it. Perfectly understandable since you have never done this before. I think you may have the inspection process confused with the treatment process. A lot of folks do get that mixed up. The inspection process and the treatment process both require that you locate each stud with a stud finder. They may not be exactly 16 inches apart all the time. To inspect, you need to locate the area between the studs and use a borescope to look inside the wall void for frass. To treat a stud that you think is infested, you need to drill holes into the stud that are 4 inches apart from the ceiling to the floor. The idea is that you don't know exactly where the gallery or galleries are located, so you go every 4 inches to make sure that you hit them all. A gallery can be as small as the size of a peanut. You most likely have termites in the ceiling joists and rafters as well, so you can see that trying to find all the galleries is pretty much impossible. If you do a good job, then you will knock out a lot of them, but even the best of the best pest controllers who do this stuff are going to miss galleries. You just need to miss one and the infestation will continue. That means you need to do this inspection process constantly because you never know which area of the house is going to become infested or when. That is why I say that the only sure way to eliminate the problem is to fumigate. I know that's not what you want to hear, but I think you contacted me because you want the truth. So, I am giving it to you straight. Please let me know if you would like to install monitoring stations around your house to detect the presence of subterranean termites and I will assist you with that. You can do it around the entire house for as little as $25, if you make them yourself, or you can buy enough of them ready made and do the entire house for around $300, depending upon the size of the house. I hope that helps. Be well Day. Video on how to inspect your home for termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oXuto7iNZ73fotI.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html
How about ultrasound?
Please watch my video where I tested these devices to see if they actually worked. This video will show you everything you need to know. Be well my friend. Video on electronic pest repellers: kzread.info/dash/bejne/p5mnzMGbm72cebA.html
How often do you need to reapply the granules?
You should apply the granules annually. Keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ma2ZlJmaiKu4o7w.html
Guy can I do Taurus sc spray in my attic also for general pets?
I would not use Taurus SC in the attic. However, you can use Talstar P. If you treat the outside of your house every 90 days, then you will no longer have bugs in the attic or anywhere else in the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions what is the name of that b ig old tank you're using. tried the basic ones at harver freights but they always play out over time (those basic sprayers at hardware places/lowes/walmart etcc.
CAN U DROP A LINK FOR THAT BIG OLD SPRAYER SIR
They no longer sell that sprayer. Too bad. It's a great sprayer and it was not expensive either. I have had it for years. If you need a new sprayer, you can get a good one on Amazon for around $150, or you can do what I now do. I no longer use a tank sprayer. I just got too old to be carrying the thing around. I now use a hose end sprayer with Bifen XTS. I have a video on how to do it. In the video it shows you how to use Bifen IT in a tank sprayer and that is much like the Talstar P. Later in the video I show you how to treat with the hose end sprayer and Bifen XTS. Doing it this way is 3 or 4 times faster and it's super easy. All the equipment and supplies are listed in the description of the video. If you want a good tank sprayer try the one I have a link to below. I don't own this one, but it's a good make and puts out 60 psi. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your house with Bifen products: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html Tank sprayer: www.amazon.com/Chapin-60124-Multi-Purpose-Rechargeable-Translucent/dp/B0BYB6P8J3/ref=sr_1_8?crid=X0ESEWS5ZRA7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.xOjNhX6PcVj0MJ0w3o4FA5bnOCeYmxIjjQayKBunhns-OlQnm3rF1GYAi1iORd31eakc3T7FXNhcFJdstQ-i1h3834olNQCAi95xnn6ISLX1G3CZbTDF0PVGGZDI4m_tWwFQNjUF8UW7WuD7JZBuf2dPzIENPAysMHNppqjCZBAjl6hp4OrLe2t3E_AoGk32tjNwjylRP1hy6xCkIxIkyxB60YBArFLFXQGVqgRHP_E_7sWIxVtpFUrrqWOSS_rH7WXwccwFwS6wfKA58PC-OJGoS_7rEjBfL54EtsIn34Y.OvKGA4IyKinDIHdM4iW02Arag2GtiZNxs-c61I_aIcg&dib_tag=se&keywords=chapin%2Bbackpack%2Bsprayer&qid=1718819573&sprefix=chapin%2Bba%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-8&th=1
Thank you so so much. I saw what I believe is an American roach in my room the other day, and thought it was just some gross bug and squashed it. I then thought about it a bit more and realized it was a cockroach and nearly lost it and thought my home was probably infested. But thanks to this video I found that it was a species that rarely starts an infestation and probably got in through a window or something. Thanks!
You are very welcome. Thank you so much for watching and actually paying attention to what I was saying. You got it exactly right. American cockroaches almost never infest homes. They do not survive well indoors and will almost always just die on their own. Well done. You made my day. Be well my friend.
Hi Guy, thanks a lot for sharing, my question is can borax works as a killer? thanks
Not really. There are some borate products that can be used on unfinished wood to prevent termites and even treat them, but borax is pretty much ineffective for treating an existing infestation. The only borate product that I ever recommend is Bora-Care and that must be applied to unfinished wood. The stuff you buy in the grocery store is not going to work well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you very much
@@billy-ln9wj You are very welcome. Be well my friend.