He did help me with termites I found in and around our mango trees using friponil (Taurus). I asked questions and he answered.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I am so happy that I was able to help. Thank you so much for sharing. You made my day. Be well my friend.

@whatevergoesforme5129

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions You're welcome. Your advice was so helpful to me. I was able to get rid of those termites because of you. And I learned a lot about Taurus (fipronil).

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@whatevergoesforme5129 I love a success story and I liked your comment so much that I pinned it. Be well my friend.

@whatevergoesforme5129

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Wow, thanks but I misspelled fipronil LOL.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@whatevergoesforme5129 No worries. I misspell a lot of words. It was clear what you meant. Be well my friend.

It's 3am and finding you really made my day! Just came here after watching your German Cockroach video. Thank you so much for your wonderful and thorough explanations!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. That is so kind of you to say. I want you to know that I really am here for you. All you have to do is ask and I will do my very best to provide the best pest control information available anywhere. Sometimes I do get thrown a curveball from folks from other countries because they have bugs that I have never dealt with before, but I always do some homework and try to find the right answer. For homegrown bugs, I can usually provide solid advice about whatever you are dealing with and I am more than happy to do it. Please pass me along to others. Be well Alice.

I first want to say thank you for taking the time to read my question, it's rare to see someone care this much about their viewers and subscribers. I'm having a problem with odorous house ants. I live in a 3rd floor apartment and I've tried to find the ant trail but there isn't one. I believe I've tracked them to the entry point which appears to be my light fixtures in the ceiling which means there must be behind my walls and ceiling. I put Terro baits everywhere and they weren't attracted to it. I then tried pouring some of the liquid inside Terro into cut up plastic straws and taped that everywhere in the house, it also did nothing. I then got Ortho Home Defense Max Defense Insect Barrier which has Bifenthrin and sprayed it around the edge of the light fixtures and ceiling and they just walk over it and aren't repelled or die to it. I watched your video and ordered Advion Gel Bait which I'm hoping works but I don't want to attract more of them to me as the light fixture is above my head and Guy they're jumping down from the ceiling and landing directly on me and they smell horrible. I can't even sit on the couch. I've also noticed they're only walking on the ceiling and nowhere near food, what do they want? I would like a product I could use to repel them from coming out the light fixture while the Advion Gel gets rid of the colony slowly. I lastly wanted to ask you, could I place the Advion Gel on the outside of my window even if I have to reapply it daily so they aren't attracted to the inside of my apartment? Thank you once again for taking the time to read this and help me out, I'm really stressed and unable to even eat without them dropping from the ceiling on me.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I'm so sorry that you're having this problem. Even though you are seeing these ants inside the apartment, there was a very good chance that the colony is actually located outside somewhere. That is why we typically treat outside first. However, since you are living in an apartment, this does not seem practical. Baiting alone may not going to be effective in your case because the colony is most likely outside, and you are not seeing a great deal of activity. That means the ants are not going to take a great deal of the bait with them to the colony. To make matters worse, these guys are not even eating the bait you put out for them. The first thing that I would do, is apply D-Fense dust around the light fixture. To do this, you need to literally remove the entire light fixture so that you have access to the electrical box. After you have the light fixture removed you can puff the dust all around the light fixture between the drywall and the electrical box. This will place the pesticide along all the entrance points that the ants can travel on. Unfortunately, death from this product is not immediate. This is a repellent dust that does not kill immediately. It will allow the ants time to go about their business and then bring the dust back to the colony and share it with the other ants. The hope is that they will carry enough of it back to the colony get the job done. Even though this is a repellent pesticide, the ants may still walk through it. If they don't, so much the better, but if they do, then death will occur within 24 hours, allowing them enough time to bring it back to the colony. Again, you are supposed to treat them outside, so we are throwing a little bit of a Hail Mary pass here. After you apply the dust, then you can go ahead and treat with the Advion. Apply it in small dots underneath where the light fixture is supposed to be reattached. That is to say, you need to apply it inside and around the electrical box. After you reinstall the light fixture, you will not be able to see the bait. I will give you a link for the dust and a duster. Just fill the duster halfway and have the exit tube on the top of the duster when you are using it. I cannot promise that this is going to work, but it's probably the best you can do, if you cannot treat the outside. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. D-Fense dust: www.solutionsstores.com/d-fense-dust Duster: www.solutionsstores.com/handheld-pesticide-duster

Thanks a lot, as new house owner, much needed, and much appreciated

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. Please feel free to ask any questions you like. I am always here to help. Be well my friend.

Thank you so much!!!! You’re videos are the best!!!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

What a nice comment to make. Thank you so much. That is very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Hello Guy, I want to start off with a thanks, for allowing us the opportunity to learn from you. The information you give has given me a lot of peace and insight, when I otherwise had none. My question is what can you tell us about the small species of pest roaches. Will your Roach elimination plan be effective against the little roaches as well?

@GuysPestSolutions

11 ай бұрын

The first thing you need to do is figure out the species. Unfortunately, if these cockroaches are small, there's a good chance they are German cockroaches. I have a video on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation, but before you do that make sure that these are actually German cockroaches, and not an easier species to treat. Somewhere near the beginning of my German cockroach video, it will show you a photo of what German cockroaches look like. You need to look at one of the adults and see if it has two stripes running down the back of its head. If it does, then it is probably a German cockroach. Also, please let me know if you live in an apartment, because they need to be treated a little bit differently. I hope that helps. Be well DaJa. Video on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eKOspaRuoa-2faQ.html

Guy I am in Volusia county Florida and have been fighting termites for about 3 years now after the home was professionally treated twice by the previous owner who was my father. It is a single wide trailer about 3 feet off the ground on one end and about 18 inches on the other because of leveling and it has exposed ground just under it and has about 50x60 concrete pad surrounding it with a small yard on the outside of the pad. I am a snow bird and sometimes stay into june and it seems this is when we see signs of termites(wings etc usually under outlets in bathroom and kitchen) and we have also treated with spray under the trailer. I have watched your videos and my husband and I have drilled into all the 2x4s every 4 inches from ceiling to floor on the walls in 3 rooms and the hall where we have seen signs of the termites or frass and used the foam you suggested, we got the granulars you suggested and the liquid and some bait traps. I know we need to put the granulars down and water them in around the perimeter of the concrete pad but and place the baits in the ground around it as well but I am unsure how to treat the ground under the single wide trailer. I have underpin up around it and there are columns of blocks holding it up and like I said only 18 inches of space on one end so you cant get under it at that end. Please let me know the best course of action. Our plans is to treat outside and work our way inside across all the walls in the single wide and all the 2x4s in it this year. It has a metal roof and it has a screen room and a sun room that are only metal and concrete so they are good but the walls and floors and ground under and around is what we are concerned with because we want to kill all the colonies and keep them gone. Thank you

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I will do my very best to assist you. Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and send me photos of all sides of the trailer, so that I can see the ground where it meets the trailer. Also, please tell me where you live in Volusia county. Location matters. You probably have drywood termites, but you may also have subterranean termites as well. Let's start with me taking a look at your property, so that I can see what you are dealing with. Be well my friend.

Hi! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge! I moved into a newly built house in May 2021 and have been dealing with one type of bug infestation after another since March of this year. The clover mites and earwigs have been the worst and am still dealing with killing 35-40 earwigs inside my house per week for months and months now. I’ve tried routine pest companies include wall tubule system since my house was built with that. I’ve bought Bithor and Maxthor and granules and treated inside around all windows and baseboards multiple times including my siding from roof to foundation plus drain treatments and FS MP and Ecovia aerosols and just your run of the mill yard granules from lowes. Nothing works 😑 The earwigs just keep coming in. I’ve recently sealed off around my doors and other cracks, holes, and crevices I’ll found but they still come in. I’ve seen some going up under bottom siding so my next move is to try putting steel wool up under there to see if that helps. Is there anything else to do? I’ve thought about killing my grass around my foundation (I live in a house built on concrete slab) as I’ve read that can help especially for clover mites and then maybe removing pine needles and replacing with rubber mulch but then I read that can attract roaches so I don’t know what else to do. Any advice?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

First, if you are using a lawn service, stop using them because they are overfertilizing your lawn. You should seal up all cracks and crevices, but do not use steel wool because it rusts. Buy a product called "Stuf-Fit." It is a copper mesh that will not rust. Small openings can be filled with regular, paintable, caulk. I can tell you how to treat for the clover mites and earwigs the conventional way or the super-fast and easy way. For the conventional way, just watch my video on how to treat the exterior of the house. Use Bifen XTS, instead of the products that I recommend in the video. Mix 1/3 ounce per gallon of water. Also, buy a battery-operated sprayer. I will place links below. If you want the super-fast and easy way, then you need to email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. This will require much less expensive equipment and is three times faster to do, but I cannot share the procedure here. For the inside of the home, buy D-Fense dust and a small duster. I will place links below. Fill the duster halfway and use it with the tube on top. Puff dust under all baseboards; under all appliances; in all cracks and crevices, like around pipes; and remove all outlet covers and puff dust in and around the outlet boxes. You can apply the dust anywhere it will not be disturbed by people, pets, or air currents. The dust can last up to 8 months. If you email me, please remind me who you are and what the issue is. You can simply copy and paste your question into the email, and I will remember you. I get a lot of email. It would also be helpful to know where you live. Climate matters. I hope that helps. Be well Laura. Stuf-Fit: www.solutionsstores.com/stuf-fit-copper-mesh D-Fense dust: www.solutionsstores.com/d-fense-dust Duster: www.solutionsstores.com/handheld-pesticide-duster Bifen XTS: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-xts Battery operated sprayer: www.amazon.com/Petra-3-Gallon-Battery-Powered-Backpack/dp/B08B3MKYWD/ref=sr_1_31?crid=WUTDV2DH37H6&keywords=battery+operated+backpack+sprayer&qid=1670148186&sprefix=battery%2520operated%2520backpack%2520sprayer%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-31&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0 Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXmHqaysnpazfM4.html

Guy, you are the most practical, down to earth and neat guy on KZread. We appreciate your kindness. I do have a question for you. I live in NJ in the woods in a log home. My yearly nemesis are carpenter bees. I've tried foaming sprays in the chewed holes. While effective, that is after the fact. 1) Is there any preventative you know about that isn't lethal to other beneficial bees or me?, 2) There are some "holes" beyond my reach (72yr old guy on an extension ladder = issues!) Any insight on those? and 3) If I miss some larvae another friend, Mr. Woody Woodpecker comes to visit and he does a massive amount more damage after the fact. I've tried building the bee traps (ala KZread) and they don't seem to work. Fake owls make the woodpeckers giggle. Outside of aluminum siding, I'm stumped. Thanks in advance for any assistance. I'm sure many many folks have this pesky situation too. All the best. Jim M.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for those kind words. I am also a 72-year-old "Guy" and the age is catching up to me as well. I painted my entire house last year and the ladder work tore me up, so I can relate. I am somewhat envious that you get to live in a log home. I always dreamed about doing that, but never got around to it. Of course, one of the problems with owning a log home is that it is made out of wood. That means it would be subject to wood destroying pests. As you found out, carpenter bees are one of those pests. I'm sure you already know that it is not the bees themselves that do most of the damage, but rather the larvae that they produce inside the wood. As luck would have it, woodpeckers like to eat these larvae and they can do a lot of damage. The good news is that there are a couple of ways to go about solving this problem. How you do it though is going to depend on whether or not your wood has been finished with paint or a sealer of any type. Before I get into how to prevent the problem going forward, let's first talk about how to treat the existing problem. You told me that you were using a foam to treat the carpenter bees, but you did not tell me which foam you are using. You got it right that the best way to treat the larvae is with a foam, but you will get the best results with the correct foam. I think almost any foam that you could buy will get it done, but I think you will achieve maximum results if you use a fipronil foam. I will provide you a link where you can get it. If you are already using a fipronil foam, then you are way ahead of me. I know that it's a challenge to get up that ladder, but it is important that you inject the foam into every hole for about 7 seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you. Then you should plug up the holes with some type of wood filler or caulking. After you have treated all the holes, then you'd need to begin the preventive treatment. Let's begin with the best way first. If the wood is unfinished, then you should spray it with Bora-Care. I will Provide you with a link to a video on how to do this. If I recall correctly, the video may tell you to mix the Bora-Care with hot water. I can tell you that this is not necessary. Cold water works just fine. Just be sure to mix it in a 5-gallon pail and never in the sprayer. Sprayers clog up very easily, so I always buy the cheapest one I can find and then I throw it away when the job is finished. If you do not finish the job in one day, make sure you clean the sprayer out really well up. Since you have a wood house, you are going to need to spray all the wood. You can mix this product 1 to 5, but it is most effective if you mix it 1 to 1 with water. Obviously, mixing it at the stronger dilution rate is going to cost a lot more money, but it does work a whole lot better. Also, after you apply the Bora-Care, you are going to need to seal it after about 48 hours. This is all explained in the video. So, this is not a cheap or easy solution, but it is a permanent one. After you apply the Bora-Care and you have it sealed, then you never need to retreat. The Bora-Care literally lasts forever. If the logs have been sealed in some way, then Bora-Care is not going to work. If this is the case, then we need to go old school on these guys. There are two ways to do this. You can do it the slow way or you can do it the fast way. The fast way it's a bit more expensive, but did I mention that it's fast? The fast way is also a lot easier and requires less expensive equipment. The only thing is though, I cannot explain the fast way to you here. If you want to know how to do that, then you need to e-mail at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. That is because this is not information that I put out for public consumption. Don't you just love a mystery? I'm guessing that you are going to send me an email. If you want to know the slow way, I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. In my video I recommend using Taurus SC or Talstar P, but in your case, I am going to recommend that you do this procedure using Bifen IT. I will provide you a link to that product. I believe it is the least expensive product that you can possibly use. My video was not exactly made for log homes, so you can ignore the part where it tells you to just treat just the eaves, windows, doors, pipe penetration, and so forth. In your case, you want to treat all of those things, but you also need to spray down virtually all the wood on your tire house. Don't worry though, this is perfectly safe to do. Unlike the Bora-Care though, you are going to need to do this every two months. My video will tell you to treat the ground from the house 18 inches out. Obviously, you do not need to do this for carpenter bees, but this will be helpful to keep all sorts of other pests out of your house. You sound like someone who has some concerns about using pesticides. If that is the case, then I recommend that you watch my video on the subject. I think the video will put your mind at ease about using these materials. Naturally, I will give you a link to that video. If you would like to skip the video, then all you need to do is trust me that, if you wear the correct protective equipment, then you will be just fine. After the Bifen IT dries, it is safe for children to play on. It's kind of like paint if you think about it. It would not be very safe for children to play on wet paint, but it would be perfectly safe for them to play on a painted surface that has already dried. It is no different with Bifen IT. Also, I can assure you that this is not going to destroy the environment or bring about seven years of famine. I hope that helps. Be well Jim. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Video on how to use Bora-Care: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKGmwcN-n8ffmMo.html Bora-Care: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXmHqaysnpazfM4.html Video on how dangerous are pesticides to use really: kzread.info/dash/bejne/m2uirrFvetbFY7Q.html

Hi Guy, Nice to see you're doing well and recovered from your surgery from last year. I am in Southern California, People here are doing the fumigation, costs for that is ranging from $2-$3k. We bought our home 3 years ago and had not fumigated since. Do we need to? Your advice is greatly appreciate it!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Southern California is loaded with drywood termites, which is the species that requires fumigation. However, not everybody has them. So, you need to get an inspection done to find out. Almost all pest control companies will do a free inspection for you. If you do have drywood termites, then please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. I will give you a link to it. Prices vary greatly in your area, so it pays to educate yourself and to shop. Meanwhile, look for small holes in the woodwork, in cabinets, and in the drywall. If you see small holes, then look to see if there is frass under the holes on the floor or counter tops. Frass looks a little like saw dust balls. If you do not have drywood termites, then you should immediately begin a preventive treatment, so that you do not get them. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. The video explains to do it every three months, but I am now recommending every two months. If you do have drywood termites and you fumigate, you should know that the gas they use has no residual action and you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. So, you need to do the preventive treatment before the tent goes up. You also have subterranean termites where you live and those can be easily prevented by sprinkling granules around your house. It's super-fast to do and only costs about $50 a year. It can save you thousands. You need to buy the right granules though. I will give you a link to the correct product. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html Video on how to prevent subterranean termites with granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k1_1_4&&crid=2YOV842GIG08A&&sprefix=term

@threestargen

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much! I've been following you for 3 years now and had watched almost all of your videos, but it is always good to watch them again to refresh.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@threestargen Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. I just read your question again and realized that I am unclear about something, so I would like a little more information, if you don't mind. Was your house fumigated in the past? If it was, then I can tell you that there is almost a 100% chance that you have another infestation of drywood termites. The reason I say that is because, if you had dry wood termites, then your neighbors had them as well. That is just the way drywood termites work. Since they swarm for a few months every year, then it is a pretty safe bet that some of the swarmers flew back over to your house within a year after the fumigation was done. You see, the gas that they used to fumigate has no residual action, so you can literally get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. If this is the case, then there is a very high probability that your house is currently being eaten by drywood termites. You may not see any evidence of them because it takes four to seven years before a new gallery is capable of producing swarmers. Also, they may be located in areas that are not easily visible, such as inaccessible places in the attic and behind your walls. So, even if there is no evidence of an infestation, if you fumigated before, then my recommendation would be that you need to fumigate again, and you must begin the preventive treatment prior to the tent going up. If you have not fumigated before, then my original recommendation would be correct. I am so sorry that I didn't catch that when I first read your question.

Hi Guy, I've watched many of your videos and found them to be the most informative. I do have a question I hope you can give me some insight on. My house is in the Phoenix, Arizona area, it was built in 2005 (post- tensioned slab) and was only lived in for about six years. 2 years by the first owner, 2-1/2 years by me as I lived and work outside the U.S. and the past 1-1/2 years as I'm back in the U.S. About a year ago I happened to noticed a mud tube running up a wall in a downstairs bedroom. I checked around the house and found 7 mud tubes around the outside of the house. I hadn't noticed any mud tubes maybe 2-1/2 years prior. I've had 4 guys inspect the house and 1 soil treatment around the house with Termidor. My question - Without pulling up the carpet are there any visible signs of termite activity under wall to wall carpeting that you know of? I know that there's one spot in the upstairs flooring that's soft and a few of the floor boards pop and crack when walked on maybe due to age of the house. Thanks in advance

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I'm afraid I need a bit more information. It appears as if you had a pest controller that did a trenching job around your house using Termidor. Please tell me when that was done. Also, please tell me if the pest controller checked the walls for termites. You live in an area where Formosan termites are known to exist and they are the only species of subterranean termites that can colonize in your home. If the pest controllers were not checking the inside of the house, then they either concluded that these are not Formosan termites or they did not actually check to see. Also, you may be living in an area where they do not see Formosan termites, so they didn't think there was any need to check, and they could be right about that. If the trenching was done correctly within the last five years, and these guys are not Formosan termites, then the infestation should be eliminated. You can check the mud tubes to see if they're gone. Just scrape off about a 2 inch section of each mud tube and have a look to see if there are any termites in there. If you don't see any, then wait a couple of weeks and go back and check again. If the termite tubes are rebuilt or if you actually see termites, then you have an infestation again. Otherwise, you're probably termite free. Look at all the walls to see if you can find paint sagging, discoloration, or if it feels wet. Let me know if you find anything like that because those are signs of Formosan termites. The soft floors could have been from previous termite damage or it could be from something entirely different. It is difficult to know what that would be without actually inspecting. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Hi Guy! Love your channel and been following for tips. My tenant has a fly problem. We are in FL. He says he keeps his house clean etc. any ideas. He does have a lot of house plants. The flies he has are the big house/cluster flies.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Just like all bugs, flies require food and a breeding area. Therefore, if the inside of the house is clean, then the problem is very likely to be outside. If your tenant has dogs, then they need to make sure that the poop is picked up. Flies also like to breed in trash cans. So, I would check the trash cans to see if there are maggots inside. If so, I would thoroughly wash the trash can. If those are not problem, then there may be a dead animal somewhere nearby. Also, the problem may not be on your property. Neighbors that are in close proximity, could have conditions that are creating flies that are flying over to your tenant's location. So, the bottom line is you need to look for the breeding areas and eliminate them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@bobyahatovich

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions makes sense. Thanks !!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@bobyahatovich You are very welcome. Please pass me along to your tenant. They can ask me any questions they like. Be well my friend.

Hello Guy, I have watched all your termite videos and I have drywood termites in my 2nd fl condo in FL- they seem to have gotten in 2 very beaut hardwood dressers, and since wall studs here are alluminum, they might have gotten in through windows or very likely attic where there is plenty of wood members. Building is from late 70's. My question is- Can i do a do it yourself fumigation in my apartment? what product is best? I understand that you cannot have any flames in the premises, while fumigating, but the entire apt is electric- no gas. Also, after fumigation, how soon can i return to the apt? is 24hrs enough? thank you Tina Teken

@GuysPestSolutions

6 ай бұрын

Thank you so much for reaching out to me. I would be more than happy to explain all of this to you. Let me start by saying that treating the furniture is fairly easy. All you need to do is buy a can of FiPro termite foam. I will give you a link to it. Remove everything from the dressers and look for tiny holes everywhere. The holes can be very small, so you need to look carefully. Shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until the foam is coming back out at you. That's all there is to it. This is a slow kill pesticide, so it may take a couple of weeks before the termites are all dead. Always look for frass on the floor. Just above the pile of frass there should be one of those tiny kick out holes. Going forward, every time you see frass, then look for the kick out hole and treat it. These guys may be in your other furniture as well, so always keep an eye out for frass near or under all your furniture. You may find them in upholstered furniture as well because there could be wood used in the construction of that furniture. Unfortunately, I do not know of a good way to treat that yourself because you may not be able to access the wood. I really wish there was a way to fumigate a single apartment for drywood termites. Unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. Fumigation requires the use of a very deadly gas. This gas will penetrate absolutely everything, and it would find its way into an adjoining apartment. When buildings are fumigated, it requires that a tent be installed over the entire building and everybody needs to vacate for several days. This will kill almost every living thing in the building. All is not lost though. If the building was constructed using metal studs, then most likely the only places drywood termites can colonize would be in the drywall, woodwork, cabinets, or the furniture. Since drywood termites always produce frass, then all you need to do is look for the piles of frass to find the galleries. When you see a pile of frass, just look for the kick out hole that should be located just above it. Just like with the furniture, shoot the FiPro into the hole for about 5 seconds. You will often find these piles near the walls and they may be behind furniture. So, I recommend that you do an inspection every month to look for frass. Make sure you look behind all the furniture, under the furniture, under cabinets, inside cabinets, and around all windows and doors. Unfortunately, you will need to continue doing this forever. That is because, if you have drywood termites, then so do the adjoining units and other buildings. So, the termites are going to keep coming every year. Therefore, the best you can do is to continuously treat them when you see the frass. It's important to understand that metal studs will prevent structural damage in the walls, but if the roof is constructed of wood, which is very common, then I can guarantee that the termites are already in that wood. The only way to effectively treat them would be to fumigate the entire building. This almost never happens in a condominium, which means that roof structure is likely to fail at some point in the future. When I say fail, I mean there will be structural damage to the components of the roof that are required for stability. The only good news about drywood termites is that they are very slow eaters and it takes a very long time for structural damage to occur. The problem is of course that you do not know how long they have been eating the roof structure. All of this is to say that if you own this condo, then you may want to think about selling it and trying to find a single family dwelling. I understand that condos are a lot less expensive than a single family home, but the repairs to the roof structure may become quite expensive. Again, you may have some time because drywood termites are slow eaters, but you would be wise to start saving to make the purchase of a single family home a reality. There is a way to prevent drywood termites in single family homes. If you manage to pull it together to purchase a single family home, then please contact me again, and I will provide important information that you need to know before the closing. I'll also explain how to prevent those drywood termites. If you do not own this condo, then I wouldn't be too worried about it, except you need to understand that at some point in the future, the building may be red tagged for repairs. That means you would need to move out until those repairs are completed. I'm so sorry for the long explanation, but I wanted you to be well informed. Be well Tina. FiPro termite foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol

@GuysPestSolutions Love your videos, I'm a big fan. I just started making homemade termite bait stations based on your other videos! But i have an unrelated question on another pest, snakes! I live north of the Houston area and my neighbors have seen and confirmed sightings of coral snakes, copper heads, as well as common rat and garter snakes. Would you recommend and prevention or repellent methods in particular? Thanks in advance!

@GuysPestSolutions

Ай бұрын

Let's start with the basics. One of the reasons they may be coming into your yard is that you have a food supply there. By that I mean you may have mice, rats, frogs, or other small critters that the snakes want to feed on. So, if you want to get rid of them, then the very first thing that you need to do is make sure that you remove any food supply that exists in your yard. That means you need to remove any food that may attract critters like rats and mice. Make sure that all trash cans are tightly sealed and do not leave any food out for dogs and cats. Always feed your pets indoors. You may also be offering them a food supply without realizing it. For example, if you have any standing water laying around the yard, like a small pond where you keep koi fish or something, then those areas can also breed things like frogs. Also, you can break the food chain. If you ever watched The Lion King, then you've heard about the circle of life. Big critters eat little critters and that includes bugs. So, in order to break the food chain, a good place to start is by getting rid of the bugs. You can treat your lawn every couple of months with Bifen XTS. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. Just treat from the house to the property line. This is going to kill all the bugs on your lawn, and it has a residual of around 60 days. It actually does not last 60 days, but it takes a while before the bugs can get reestablished. If there are no bugs, then no food supply for small critters and small snakes as well. If you have no bugs and no small critters, then no food for the snakes. It takes a while for this to be effective, but the snakes will eventually realize that your property is not a good hunting ground, and they will probably hunt elsewhere. That doesn't mean that one will not occasionally come on the property, but it will reduce the likelihood over time. Video on how to treat your yard with a garden sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html Bifen XTS: www.domyown.com/bifen-xts-p-1236.html Garden hose sprayer: Amazon.com : RE Chapin MFG Works G499 Adjustable Rate Dial Hose End Sprayer, 32 OZ : Patio, Lawn & Garden Snakes also like to find hiding places, so make sure that you do not offer them any. This doesn't just mean places they can go under, like firewood, turned over trash cans, piles of leaves, and so forth, but also they like to blend in with the environment. That is why it is common to find them in a garden. They didn't go in your garden necessarily to eat, but to blend in with the environment. Of course, a garden could offer them a food supply if other critters are eating some of those vegetables that you planted. At night they like to hide in places that are particularly dark. Cover is a snake's best friend. They do not like you anymore than you like them and so you will often find them in tall grass where they are not easily seen. So, be sure to keep your lawn mowed. Finally, make sure that you don't have any ditches or holes in the ground that they can get into easily. In other words, do not allow the snakes any place where they can seek cover. Some snakes like water, so it's a good idea to eliminate any standing water on the property. If these prevention methods fail, then you need to start bringing out the big guns. Probably the most effective way to keep snakes out of your yard is to exclude them by installing snake proof fencing. You can purchase these products on Amazon and I will give you a link to just one such product as an example. Feel free to look around Amazon or other suppliers to find the fencing that would be best suited for your property and needs. This type of fencing makes it difficult for snakes to go under or climb over them. Snake proof fencing: www.amazon.com/MTB-Black-Coated-Hardware-Cloth/dp/B07ZPWRMMQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=GW5G5RUFTUF6&keywords=snake%2Bfence%2Bbarrier%2B1%2F4&qid=1681307868&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=snake%2B%2Clawngarden%2C136&sr=1-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1 You can also try some snake repellents. There are any number of them on the market. They typically use environmentally friendly materials that irritate the snakes so that they don't come around. You can experiment with different products to see what works best for you, but I will give you a link to just one of them. Snake repellent: Snake Out Snake Repellent | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com) There are also snake traps available, but I am reluctant to use them because of the possibility of killing other critters that you may not be interested in getting rid of. So, if you're going to use traps, then try to stick with the ones that are designed to catch snakes alive. I will give you a link to just one of these types of traps. Snake trap: www.amazon.com/AmazingTraps-Amazing-Humane-Snake-Starter/dp/B07JYTQDBJ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3RWS6QFI732XI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dHr_JxcF3TFuUcpVM5dY0R4s1tkkQjPR1kmi45z9hgvGoqOMPSFcgViPwWS3ZRrLElxHCtPAPzzgeFbi2pU8W09G67qIr3FQ0PXg7PZSwykqiW18D5ogafb8fNGU0W7CVAdGktFPSKm9k_FOHuO2VtYFxjmk_0oQaBjGf1OrplVzC2kZyl77_59nFalhoaaioAdzTZaKvBhWu6KEFE48Yla6VFJNyJubHxGerMLUIC-DVUgfF6sLIaUrqJ0Zbf-N0PG0C-mbMHm9AmQ8reMp0IGIDjS04T_j_VlhFyiABLA.o6TokM3Ff4NnmUykiTZzEAXhxSTvsJQRztoOnYu49nk&dib_tag=se&keywords=humane+snake+catcher&qid=1714684823&sprefix=humane+snake+%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-4 I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@eunsonator

Ай бұрын

Wonderful feedback! I'll give it a shot and let you know how things go. Thank you very much for your time, expertise, and compassion!

@GuysPestSolutions

Ай бұрын

@@eunsonator You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

I have some termites and taurus sc is your go to , I've read about a product called Termidor, what's your thoughts on it and I'm seeing spiders not sure if they're wolf spiders or what but someone told me they were brown recluse but I've read about products called transport , gentrol and a dust maybe delta dust or drione what would you recommend. Thanks a lot , just found this channel and new subscriber and the termites should I drill in my concrete on the porch and anywhere inside my walls , floors , is that necessary.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

It sounds like you have more than one problem to deal with, so let's start with the termites. There is more than one species of termite, and so the first thing you want to find out is if you are looking at subterranean termites for drywood termites. There are a couple of ways of doing this. Probably the easiest way is to call a pest control company and ask them to do a free inspection. They will always give you an estimate, but make sure that they list the specific species in that estimate. Also ask them for a treatment plan. It's your house, so you have a right to know how they plan to treat the problem. I recommend that you do not sign anything and just let them know that you plan to get other estimates. The other way to determine if these are subterranean or drywood termites is to inspect yourself. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood termites are a problem. If you live outside the red area, then you have subterranean termites. If you live inside the red area, then you need to do an inspection. This is really pretty easy. All you need to do is look for mud tubes, kick out holes, and frass. The video will tell you how to identify these things. If you are seeing mud tubes, then you have subterranean termites. If you are seeing kick out holes and frass, then you are looking at drywood termites. The only way to get rid of drywood termites is to fumigate. However, you can treat subterranean termites by either trenching or using termite granules. I will provide you a link to both videos. Please note that, if you live in the orange areas on the map, then you need to tell me, and I will guide you further. Now, let's talk about the spiders. It really doesn't matter what species of spider you have; they are all very easy to get rid of. All you need to do is an exterior treatment of the house every three months. If you live in an area where there are drywood termites, then I suggest that you do this every two months. I have a video on how to do this, that I think you may have already watched, but I will place a link below, just in case you didn't. In the video I recommend using either Taurus SC or Talstar P. Taurus SC is the same exact thing as Termidor. The only difference is that Taurus SC is cheaper. You can also use Navigator SC. That product costs about the same amount as Taurus SC, but sometimes you can find it just a little bit cheaper. I always recommend doing your first exterior treatment with either Taurus SC or Navigator SC. That is because these are non-repellent pesticides, and they will effectively eliminate many infestations around your home. All future treatments can be done with Talstar P. You can save some money by using Bifen XTS instead. This product may seem to be quite expensive, but keep in mind that you mix it 1/3 ounce per gallon, instead of the 1 ounce per gallon for Talstar P. Therefore, the product will go three times as far. Also, the Biden XTS will work in a hose end sprayer much more effectively than the Talstar P, so it can also be used easily on your lawn and ornamental plants. If you calculate the price per finished gallon, the Bifen XTS is the cheapest option available. Treating your lawn is a very good idea, if you have spiders or a problem with ants. Please let me know if you would like the procedure for that and I will send it to you. This is going to be the next video that I do, but I do not have it finished yet. In the meantime, I would be more than happy to give you written directions. There is no need to use any other products for spiders, unless you are trying to kill them inside the house. If that is the case, just spray the webs with Raid Flying Insect Killer and then knock the webs down with a broom or dust mop. You should also spray the Raid anywhere there could be spiders. That would include under the bed, behind the headboard, under and behind dressers, and so forth. The spiders are coming in from the outside, so if you do a proper exterior treatment, at least every three months, then you will have no more spiders coming in the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat subterranean termites with granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXmHqaysnpazfM4.html Bifen XTS: www.domyown.com/bifen-xts-p-1236.html Navigator SC: www.domyown.com/navigator-sc-termiticide-p-19237.html?sub_id=19238

Question for Guy: Hello sir, I have so many books they didn't all even fit on the bookshelves. However, I recently discovered, after having a pest company come out, that the bookshelf they were stored on has dry wood termites. I've completely gotten rid of the bookcase. Yet, now I am super paranoid about all the books? Should I be worried about this or would it be rare for the dry wood termites to get into the books with a wooden bookcase to eat? Is there a way to salvage the books or should I get rid of them all? Thank you in advance. Appreciate your channel!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Termites eat cellulose. Wood contains cellulose, and that's why they eat it. Well, paper also contains cellulose, and books are generally made of paper, so I wouldn't rule out the possibility that drywood termites might want to dine on them. So, it's worth checking the books for damage. If you go through each book and look, you will be able to see if there is any damage. If not, then you should be good to go. If you do discover damage, or even if you find mites or something in the books, you can easily kill them. Just place the books in a plastic bag and seal it. Place the bag in a microwave with a half cup of water, and nuke it on high for about 3 minutes. Microwaves heat water and bugs contain water, so you will boil them to death with their own body fluids. Microwaves also need water or you will damage them. That is why you need that half cup of water in there. The plastic bag will prevent the moisture from the cup of boiling water from damaging the books. Make sure that the books do not contain any metal. As you know, metal will damage a microwave. By the way, if you had drywood termites in your bookshelf, then there is a very good chance that they are also infesting your building structure as well. You know, they had to come from somewhere. That somewhere was either another location in your home or from the outside. If they came from your home, then you have an infestation. If they came from the outside, then they most likely attacked other areas of you home as well, so again, you have an infestation. They like to enter through the eaves, around windows and doors, and other penetrations in the side of the house. So, if you have them in a bookshelf, then it is almost a certainty that you have them in the walls, attic, and maybe other areas as well. Just thought you should know. Please let me know if you would like more information about it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Hi Guy how do you deal with general insects in your lawn? I'd appreciate you doing a video on that. Thanks

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Interesting that you make this suggestion. As it turns out, I am planning to do a video on how to treat your lawn in near future. Meanwhile, I can give you some written directions right now. I recommend using Bifen IT and a specific garden hose sprayer that I know works, but you can use any brand that you wish. I will place a link below for both the sprayer and Bifen IT. I have found that these sprayers do not last beyond a few uses because they seem to clog up quite easily, even if you clean them really well. So, what happens is you end up just spraying water instead of pesticide. That is why it is a good idea to put a dye in with the pesticide, so that you know it is working. I will provide you with links to all the products. When the sprayer stops working, just buy a new one. They are not very expensive. This application method does not require a lot of protective equipment. I recommend wearing goggles, rubber gloves, long pants, a respirator, and long sleeve shirt (If it's not too hot out). The Bifen IT is too thick to be picked up by the siphon tube in the sprayer and therefore, it needs to be diluted. To do this, pour 4 ounces of the Bifen IT into the sprayer and then add enough water to fill it to the 32-ounce mark. So, that would be 4 ounces of product and an additional 28 ounces of water. As you are adding the water, swirl it around a bit in the container, so that it mixes as you are adding the water. Before screwing the sprayer onto the holding cup, make sure that the siphon tube is securely into the sprayer head. If the siphon tube falls out, then you will be spraying with plain water. Set the sprayer at 8 ounces per gallon. The labeled dilution rate for the Bifen IT is 1 ounce per gallon of water, but you diluted it 1 ounce of product to 7 ounces of water, so that means you need to apply it at a rate of 8 ounces per gallon. At this application rate, you will see the holding cup drain down fairly quickly, so you will know that it's working. If the product does not seem to be emptying out of the holding cup fairly quickly, then something is wrong, and you need to stop and figure it out. If the siphon tube is solidly in place, then it could be that the screen on the end of the tube is clogged. If that is clear, then put your finger over the bottom of the tube and turn on the water. If you do not feel the suction, then it's not working, and the sprayer is malfunctioning. You always want to clean the spryer really well after each use to avoid clogs. It's always a good idea to put a dye in the cup with the pesticide and that will show if the product is being dispensed. Just avoid spraying anything that you don't want colored, like concrete or the house. The color will wash off the lawn and plants when it rains. You really don't need to use so much dye that you actually color the grass. You just want enough color so that you can tell that the pesticide is being picked up by the siphon tube. Attach the sprayer to a garden hose and you are all set. Set the sprayer for a downward fan spray and spray your lawn, ornamental plants, and garden. When spraying your garden, do not spray directly onto the fruits or vegetables, unless they are actually getting eaten by bugs. Again, if you use the dye, then do not spray concrete. Otherwise, I would spray the entire property from the house out to the property line. Pro tips: To make this application quicker and easier, I recommend that you buy 100 feet of one of those super hoses that you see advertised on TV all the time. They are lightweight and make the job go a lot quicker and easier. Also, if you attach a quick disconnect to both the sprayer and the garden hose, it makes refilling the sprayer a lot easier and quicker. These hoses require that you have a shutoff valve at the end of the hose where the sprayer is located, so that you can shut the water off prior to removing the sprayer. Most of the hoses have a shutoff valve built in, but not all of them do. If you buy one that does not have a shut off valve, then you need to add your own. I will place links below for all these items. Please note that these hoses should be stored inside because they deteriorate fairly quickly when left in the sunlight. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide If you cannot get the Bifen IT from Solutions Pest and Lawn, then try domyown.com: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=11662 Sprayer dye for lawn: www.solutionsstores.com/turf-mark Garden hose sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B00UER1S64?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Garden hose: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SYT173G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quick connect fittings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QG6F3Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Shutoff valve: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZYGVFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Best way to get rid of carpenter bees? Way up high in the fascia boards. At top of second story house. In summer there are swarms of them. They are crawling behind the boards where apparently the people who built the house did not paint the back of the boards.

Hi Guy, we watched your video about using an endoscope to check for termites, but there is thick insulation between all the wood studs so we can’t really see the Frass. We definitely have termites in a wall above a window, there are kick out holes and Frass droppings, and sadly that’s been the case for about four years. What we are trying to do with the endoscope is see how far in either direction the termites might’ve gone so we know where to spray the foam. Any suggestions?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

From the sound of things, I'm guessing that you have drywood termites. One of the problems with trying to inspect and treat for dry wood termites in insulated walls is that they are, well, insulated. The frass often gets stuck in the insulation and never makes it to the bottom of the wall. The reason that I do not recommend spot treating for drywood termites is because it is almost impossible to find all the galleries. Spot treating is only something you should do if you absolutely cannot afford to get the house fumigated or if you live in a condominium or townhouse. The thing is though that it is highly unlikely that you are going to find all the galleries. The two most common places for drywood termites to enter the building is through the eaves or around windows and doors. It is very common for them to find cracks and crevices around the soffits and fascia boards where they can gain access to the attic. Once inside, they often make their way into the walls as well. The way drywood termites work is they start a small gallery, then after four to seven years that gallery will be capable of producing swarmers. The swarmers are reproductives that will start new colonies. One of these galleries can produce quite a few swarmers that will look for new places in your home to start more galleries. Then, the same thing happens all over again, but multiplied many times over. Over time, you can have a significant number of galleries all around your home. So many in fact that it would be virtually impossible to find them all. Unfortunately, by the time you find out that you have drywood termites at all, then you have already most likely reached this stage of the infestation. To make matters even worse, there is virtually a 100% chance that your neighbors have drywood termites as well and these guys are swarming for several months out of the year. That means additional reproductives have been entering your home for years now. So, the only effective way to eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate the house. Unfortunately, the gas that they use to fumigate your house has no residual action. That means you can be reinfested the moment the tent comes down. The only way to prevent this from happening is to do a preventive treatment every two months, starting before the tent goes up. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. I mentioned in the video to do this every three months, but I have rethought that now and I am recommending every two months. That is because the pesticides lose a lot of their effectiveness after 60 days. They may still be working, but when it comes to drywood termites, I think it's best to have the maximum effect. If you decide to fumigate, then please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Watching this video can save you a lot of money. I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I understand what a nightmare it is. Also, I understand that I did not exactly give you the information you were hoping for, but I am always 100% honest, and I want you to have all the facts before you do anything. While it is expensive to fumigate, it is even more expensive not to fumigate. Drywood termites are slow eaters, but they may eventually cause a structural failure that will render your home uninhabitable, and those repairs can cost many thousands of dollars. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I'm always happy to provide whatever information you need. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html

Hi there again, Thank you for your help with our Termites. I am having trouble getting the foam under the cement in the garage. I drilled 3/8” holes 🕳️ all the way to the gravel and the foam comes right back out at me when I try to fill the holes. I was able to use a weed sprayer with spectracide termite, and ant killer and put about 5 letters of fluid in some of the holes. I’m concerned that this is not enough or the right thing to do under the cement. I was able to foam the infested wall and treat around the house like you recommended. Please help ❤❤

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You drilled the holes a little bit too wide. You only need to drill the holes just wide enough with the applicator tip of the foam can to enter. It is normal for the foam to come back out at you. The foam expands to 30 times its original size. When the foam is coming back out at you, that means that it has found every little crack and crevice that it can possibly get into. At that point, there is nothing else that needs to be done. You should never use any of the Spectracide products because they can make the problem worse. If you shot this stuff down the holes where you used the fipronil foam, then you may have stopped the foam from doing its job. If this is the case, then you need to wait 90 days and retreat with the foam. Don't worry though. Regardless of this small set back, the infestation may still be eradicated because you treated the infestation in the wall, and you applied the granules around the house. Those two treatments alone should wipe out the colony. So, if you are still seeing activity after 90 days, then go ahead and retreat the crack in the concrete. Otherwise, don't worry about it. After the infestation is gone, it's gone. All you really need to do after that is to apply the granules every year and you should be good to go. Keep in mind that it takes up to 12 weeks to kill off a termite colony. That is exactly how long it takes for the pros as well. We want to kill these guys slowly, to allow them time to bring the pesticide back to the colony and share it with the other termites. That is the problem with Spectracide. Most of their formulations are fast kill and the termites will avoid it. That is the last thing we want to do with subterranean termites. Homeowners like it because they see fast results, but all they are doing is moving the infestation from one area of the house to another. Since the termites will avoid this product, they will simply look for a new food supply, which will be another area of the same house. So, people think they have solved the problem, but the truth is that they just relocated it. I hope that helps. He will my friend.

Guy, thanks for the helpful videos! We were preparing some things to go to storage and during this time a swarm happened in our garage. We are going to tent the house. The question is, is there any danger that plastic bins full of books and such wind up being eaten while in storage? For the most part they were closed and in an adjacent room. But the way we found out about the swarm is that at least one termite flew in when the door to the garage was opened. I doubt that any got in any of the containers, but IF they did, will they survive and proliferate inside a plastic storage container? If this is a possibility, how could it be remedied or prevented?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Let me start by saying that, if you had a swarm in the garage, there is a reasonable chance that you have had an infestation of drywood termites in your home for quite some time now. I think drywood termites prefer to build their galleries in wood, but they have been known to infest books as well. If they did get into one or more of those containers and if they have a sufficient oxygen supply, then there is no reason they would not survive in there. If this is a concern to you, and it certainly would be for me, then my recommendation would be, if you were fumigating, just leave the containers in the house and open them up. The gas will kill the termites and leave the books and other items unharmed. If for any reason you do not fumigate, the books can be treated by microwaving them. Just place them and I plastic trash bag, seal it off really tight, and place the bag in your microwave, with about 1/2 cup of water. The water is important because you can ruin the microwave without it. Set the microwave to high and cook for three minutes. Microwaves heat water and that is why you must put the half cup of water in with the books. This will not harm the books because you have them in plastic bags. The microwaves will penetrate right through the plastic and the books. Since termites contain water, the microwaves will heat that water to the boiling point, thereby killing the termites. You will literally boil them to death with their own body fluids. Be careful when removing the half cup of water because it will be boiling too. A microwave treatment can be done on any item that does not contain metal. So, be careful that you do not nuke 3 ring binders and that the books you cook do not have any metal edging on them. This process gives a whole new meaning to the term "cooking the books." Lol. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@MelFinehout

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions that helps a lot! Will work for some things.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@MelFinehout Good luck with it. Be well my friend.

I just watched your “how to treat termite for $50” video & I am excited to try your method out! I am wondering with this method, will it also treat termites that may already be inside your house? We just recently spotted a small pinhole in our drywall in the living room (exterior wall) & when I called one of the big pest control company they suggested fumigation for $3k + $400/year annual maintenance! I only see one hole so it must be early stage of active termite at home. But let me know if there is anything else I should do to treat inside the home as well. Thanks!!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Here's the thing you should know about termites. There is more than one species. 90% of the time, here in the US, the species that you run into are subterranean and the granules will work very well for them. However, the other 10% of the time, you are dealing with a species where you cannot use the granules. One of those species are called "drywood" termites. The only way you can get rid of drywood termites is to fumigate. Since the company that did your inspection recommended fumigation and since fumigation only works on drywood termites, then it's a pretty safe bet that is the species of termite that you are dealing with. If that is the case, then the granules are not going to work. I recommend that you have a look at the estimate to see if the specific species is listed. If it indicates drywood termites, then that will confirm what I am telling you. If the estimate does not include the specific species, then call the company ask if these are drywood termites. I would pretty much bet the ranch that they are, but it's a good idea to make sure. Also, look the see if there is anything that looks like sawdust or little balls that are on the floor below that hole in the drywall. If there is, that material is called frass and it is a sure sign that you have drywood termites because subterranean termites do not create frass. If I am correct and you have drywood termites, then you need to get the house fumigated. However, you should not go with the first estimate that you get. Prices can vary wildly in this business for fumigation. If you want to hire with the right company, at the best price, then please watch my video on the subject. I will provide a link below. Watching this video could save you a lot of money because I've seen prices vary as much as $2000 for the same job. So, it pays to be educated and it pays to shop. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate your house has no residual action. That means your house can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Therefore, you must do a preventive treatment before they put the tent up. I have a video on how to do that. In the video, I'm telling you to do this every three months, but I am now recommending that you do it every two months. You see, here's the thing, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since these guys swarm for several months out of the year, I can guarantee you that they are going to fly over to your house and reinfest it. If you do the preventive treatment every two months, then you do not need to worry about buying the annual maintenance agreement. Those things are a waste of money anyway. Finally, even though the granules are not going to work in your case, you should still apply them around your house because you do not want to get a subterranean termite infestation either. It is always better to be proactive rather than reactive. The granules only cost about $50 and that is a cheap insurance policy against subterranean termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html

@kakerufujikawa3785

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@kakerufujikawa3785 You are very welcome. I am always happy to help. Be well my friend.

I have found your channel to be so extremely helpful. I want to safeguard my new home and wanted to know if I can simply spray boric acid on my insulation I already have in my attic vs paying for a pest company to spray their termite protected insulation?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for reaching out to me. I'm afraid that I am going to need a little more information. Please answer these questions for me. 1. Do you have termites already? 2. Where do you live? Geographical location matters because there are different species in different areas of the US and other countries. 3. If you have termites, are they subterranean or drywood? It's okay if you don't know. I can help you find out. 4. What is your current insulation made of? Is it fiberglass, foam, or cellulose? If you don't know, I can help you figure it out. 5. How old is the house? You should know that almost all insulation is termite proof. In fact, I have never seen termites eat insulation before. Termites eat cellulose. Wood contains cellulose and that is why termites eat it. Some blown in insulation is made of cellulose, but it is generally treated with a fire retardant that termites will not eat. If your house is quite old, it may be possible that you have cellulose insulation that was not treated, but even if that is the case, you can simply treat the termites and not the insulation. So, if you already have termites, they can be treated and then prevented from returning. So, there is no need to replace insulation or treat it in any way. This is never necessary with termites. If you have termites already, I can explain how to take care of them. If you want to prevent termites, I can explain how to do that as well. Most of the time, this is something you can do yourself for very little money. I hope that helps. Be well Allie.

@alliekilpatrick263

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your quick and well explained answer. I do not have any active termites now, I have had sub T. termites in the past. I live next to a wooded area in Houston, Tx and see many swarmers through the seasons, so I thought I could protect from dry wood with bora care if I sprayed it on my fiberglass insulation as I spray the wood that is exposed in the attic as well. I do plan on spraying the eaves as you suggested in your other video to help protect.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@alliekilpatrick263 You are correct. Treating the wood in the attic with Bora-Care will go a long way toward preventing drywood termites. It makes the wood termite proof. Make sure you get it into the eves. It's not easy to do, but do your best. You can lightly spray it on top of the insulation as well. My guess is that the insulation is termite proof already, but it couldn't hurt. Don't get it soaking wet though because that can degrade the insulation and make it less effective. Just a light spray would be fine. Drywood termites will often enter around doors, windows, and cracks and crevices around the home too. Be sure to caulk everything you can and then do the exterior treatment every two months. I know I said to do it every three months in the video, but I am rethinking that. The pesticide can last 90 days, but it will not be as effective for the last 30 days, so I'm thinking maybe it would be better to do it every 60 days. I started doing that to my house this year. I mean, it's only two more treatments a year, so why take chances? If your subterranean termite treatment was more than five years ago, then you should start treating with termite granules every year. It only costs about $50 a year and it will prevent those guys from paying you another visit. Trenching effectiveness lasts between five to ten years on average. I will place a link below for the video and a link for the product. In the video I tell you that Home Depot and Lowes have the product, but they stopped selling the right one. So, you need to get it from Amazon. It sounds like you just saved a lot of cash on new insulation that you didn't need. Good for you. It pays to do your homework. I love it when people research before they spend money on things they don't need. If you do all the preventive treatment, then you will be good to go. Well done. Be well Allie. Video on how to treat your home with termite granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k1_1_6&=&crid=1CL8JQ2H8NSZN&=&sprefix=termit

@alliekilpatrick263

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions you're the best. thank you so much. You just saved me a ton of money on a rental and new home. You are a real blessing.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@alliekilpatrick263 Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You are the one who deserves the credit though because you took the time to do your research before making a large financial decision. You are obviously a very wise person, and you can be justifiably proud of yourself for making smart decisions. So, give yourself a big pat on the back. Very well done. Be well Allie.

I contacted you on a previous video asking about some help with termites. You asked me to send a photo of what I have as far as identification. But I never got a message back on where to send the photo. Can I still do that? Thanks again.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I am so sorry. I thought I did that. You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please remind me of the problem in your email. I get a lot of mail and it is hard to keep everyone straight. Thanks.

Hi Guy. Thanks for helping me out with my drywood termite problem in my 1bd/1bth condo. It worked! Now I have a tentative contract on a single family block home. Problem is it had/has termites. Was tented 4 years ago. But contract states it does not cover powderpost beetles. IMHO damage to rafters indicate they are indeed powderpost beetles. My question is, how can I tell the difference between drywood termites and powderpost beetles by only looking at the fras and exit holes? Thanks!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I am so happy that I was able to assist you in the past and I think I can help you again. However, you may not like all the information that I am about to provide. I mean, I know this is not what you were going to want to hear. You asked me how to tell the difference between a powderpost beetle infestation and a dry wood termite infestation because they both produce those tiny holes and some material from those holes. I'm going to answer that question in just a little bit, but first I need to talk to you about the reality of what is going on with drywood termites. If the house was fumigated four years ago for drywood termites, then there is literally a 100% chance that it is also infested now. For that reason, it makes little difference if you are looking at drywood termites or powder post beetles. The truth is that you do have drywood termites. You may also have powderpost beetles, but you still have drywood termites as well. Therefore, this house needs to be fumigated again. I don't care what the inspectors are telling you, I promise you that this house is infested with drywood termites as I write this. If you know anything about drywood termites, then you know that if this house had them four years ago, then other houses in the neighborhood have them as well. Since the gas they used to fumigate has virtually no residual action whatsoever, that means the house is subject to a reinfestation the moment the tent comes down. Drywood termites swarm for several months during the year and there is virtually a 100% chance that they flew back to this house within 12 months of the time it was fumigated, and they reestablished another infestation. There is virtually no question about this. Here's the thing though… When you get reinfested with drywood termites, they do not have the ability to swarm for four to seven years. Therefore, most people do not realize they have them again until they start to see these swarmers. In the absence of seeing any termite bodies or wings laying around from swarmers, many inspectors fail to understand that the building does, in fact, have an infestation of drywood termites. They also look for things like holes in the wood and drywall and frass, but sometimes those kick out holes and the frass are inside the walls or places in the attic that are not accessible, so the inspectors miss it. For the life of me, I do not understand how professional pest controllers fail to realize that a house that was fumigated four years ago must have an active infestation now. This is literally a no brainer. So, you see, it doesn't matter if you have powderpost beetles in the attic because you have to fumigate anyway. Now, there is a way to prevent another infestation of drywood termites, but I can guarantee you that it was never done. Very few pest controllers even know that you can do it. I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but this is the God's honest truth. Okay, let me address your specific question. It is true that both powderpost beetles and drywood termites create tiny holes in the wood. However, drywood termites produce frass, but powderpost beetles produce something much finer, like a very fine grade of sawdust. Frass looks almost like little balls and is nowhere near as fine as the powder that is produced by powderpost beetles, which is how they got their name. They literally leave a powder behind. So, if you are looking at a very fine powder, then these are probably powderpost beetles. However, if you were looking at a much coarser material that is kind of cylindrical in shape, then these are most likely drywood termites. In both cases, they can be spot treated by shooting a fipronil foam into the holes for a few seconds and then spraying the entire section of wood with Bora-Care, mixed one to one with water. I will provide you with a link on how to use the Bora-Care and a link to where to get it. Keep in mind though that this is not going to eliminate the drywood termite problem. These guys are most likely already in the walls and the only option to eliminate them is to fumigate. If it were me, I would require the seller to do another fumigation prior to closing or I would ask for the cost of the fumigation to be held in escrow, so that you can do it yourself after the closing. The other option is to request that the price of the house be reduced by the cost of the fumigation. I would get at least three estimates for the fumigation, and I would agree to the lowest bidder. You need to understand that, if you are not compensated by the seller for this, then the price of the house is going to be increased by the cost of the fumigation that you are definitely going to need to do yourself. If the seller is unwilling to work with you on this, then you need to decide if the house is worth buying. Your contract most likely has an exit clause that will allow you to terminate the contract for any reason after the inspection. If it doesn't, then you have a Realtor that is definitely not on the ball. I am not aware of any law that says you need to have a professional inspector tell you that you have drywood termites in order to cancel a contract. The buyer should be able to do that inspection themselves and still be able to cancel the contract based on their own findings. Do not take anybody's word for what is in the contract. You should always read the entire contract, word for word, to make sure of exactly what is in it. I have a lot of experience with this, and I have never found a real estate contract yet that I could not get out of by using one of the clauses contained within it. You just need to know what they are. Again, I am so sorry that I had to explain all of this to you, but I think it is important for you to go into this real estate deal with your eyes wide open. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. How to use Bora-Care: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKGmwcN-n8ffmMo.html Bora-Care supplier: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html

@mikem54321

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutionsThanks guy. So I can report fras I see is not a powder so likely it is drywood termites. My next question is how do I know it isn't simply the previous fras and holes from before the home was tented? Also I made an error. Turns out tenting was done 3 years ago, not 4. Thanks

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@mikem54321 It can be difficult to tell the difference between old frass and new frass. I think it's one of those things where you really need to kind of know what you're looking at. You need for look for things like differences in color, if it's caked up in any way, is there dust over the top of it, and things like that. Probably the best way to tell though is to simply clean it up and then see if it reappears in a few days. At the end of the day though, it really doesn't matter if that is old frass or new frass because I promise you that you do have a drywood termite infestation. It may not be in that particular spot, but you do have an infestation. Those termites are not ready to swarm yet, but they are still busy eating away at the house. I'm sorry. I know that is not what you wanted to hear, but it is the truth. Be well my friend.

Do you have any termination and prevention plan for biting midge (no-see-ums)? I have been used 7 F Bifenthrin every month but not helping.

@GuysPestSolutions

2 ай бұрын

I'm not going to bore you with a lot of technical information about them, but at a minimum you should know that they behave very much like mosquitoes. As you have already discovered, these guys do bite. Like mosquitoes though, only the females bite. What you may not be aware of is that they breed in water, just like mosquitoes do. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is find and eliminate the breeding areas. These things are very tiny, so the larvae that they produce are so tiny that you probably cannot even see it in the water. Therefore, you need to remove all sources of standing water around your property. They can breed in a container of water the size of a bottle cap, so you need to make sure that there's absolutely no standing water anywhere on your property. I do not have a video on midges, but I do have a video on how to eliminate mosquitoes naturally which shows you a little bit about where to look for standing water. I will give you a link to that video. After you eliminate all the standing water around your yard, then you need to treat with a pesticide. Actually, you need to treat with a combination of pesticides. This is where it might get just a little pricey because midges are very hard to treat. These guys are attracted to light, so you want to treat the exterior of your home. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. You are going to do it just a bit differently than I show in the video. You must treat all the areas that I show in the video, but you cannot use a hose end sprayer. This treatment can only be done with a tank sprayer. You can use a pump-up garden sprayer, but this will be a lot faster and easier if you buy a good battery operated sprayer. I recommend that you do not cheap it out. You can get an inexpensive sprayer, but it is well worth the investment to buy a good one that has at least 65 PSI. I will give you a link to the one that I recommend. This is not going to be cheap, but it's worth the money. A good one probably runs about $170. In my video on how to treat the exterior of your house I tell you to use Bifen IT in the tank sprayer. That is also what you are going to use, but you need to also add an insect growth regulator or IGR. An IGR will stop the midges from breeding. This is important because they are very hard to kill with a pesticide alone and that is the reason why bifenthrin alone is not working. You want to mix 1 ounce of Bifen IT with 1 ounce of Tekko Pro IGR per gallon of water. Apply this mixture every place that I show you in the video. It is going to be time consuming, but you need to treat your yard with this mixture as well. Pay particular attention to treating around any ornamental plants that you may have in the yard. The Bifen IT is not that expensive, but the Tekko Pro is it bit on the pricey side. Nevertheless, this is what you need to do if you want to get rid of these guys. I would like to say that this is a once and done treatment, but if I did that, I would be misleading you. Unfortunately, you need to do this treatment every 60 to 90 days. If it were me, I would do this treatment every 30 days for the first 3 months. That will ensure that you kill any larvae that may be breeding in the lawn. After that first 90 days I would treat every 60 days after that. 90 days between treatments may be too long in your case. I do not know how cold it gets where you live during the winter, but if it's pretty much freezing during the winter months, then you do not need to treat until it gets warmer out. As soon as the temperature gets above freezing, you need to resume treatments immediately. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat mosquitoes naturally: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dn2jpaqoaZmyesY.html Video on how to treat the exterior of your house: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html Battery operated sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3MKYWD/?coliid=I1WHD5A3RF25H9&colid=3VDXA5DFBKQ98&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

Hello Guy. I just noticed tubes in my garage. I have concrete all around my house and no And no way to treat with granules.. What do you suggest I do on the concrete?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

First of all, I am so sorry that it took so long to get back to you. I usually get back a lot quicker than this, but I ran into a few personal issues over the last few days that really slowed me up with answering questions. There are basically three ways you can go with this. The preferred way is to hire a professional pest controller to drill holes through the concrete, around the entire building, and inject a termiticide under the concrete. Not surprisingly, this is the most expensive way. You can also hire a pest controller to just drill the concrete along the area were they believe the infestation is located. Typically, the termites are attacking from near that area, so just spot treating the concrete may be enough to eradicate the colony. Obviously, this will not be as expensive as drilling around the entire house. You could try this first, and if it fails, and you can always drill around the rest of the house later. Your final option is to do a spot treatment yourself. This is definitely not a sure thing, but it is something you could try if you cannot afford to hire a pro. If you do a very good job, then there is a 90% chance or better that you will eliminate the infestation. For it to work though, you need to do it correctly. Again, this is something you can try, and if it fails, you can always hire a pro at that time. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you have a slab home, then you may find them going up the outside of the house on the slab and even the side of the house. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated. After you use one of these methods, you may want to consider installing monitoring stations around the house. This is not necessary, but it is very easy to do, and you will know immediately if you have termites in the area. If one of the stations goes off, then you can treat the termites right at the station, before they try to attack your house. This way, you are protected by either the granules or the trenching, and you have the peace of mind knowing that there are no termites in the area. You can make these stations yourself out of used water bottles for about 50 cents each. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. These stations have a little orange dot on the top of them. When the dock disappears you either have termites or the station has malfunctioned. Either way, you can check to see if there are active termites, and if there are, then you can treat them right there. Now, let's face it, we are making these things out of used water bottles, so it is possible that one of orange indicators can move to the side and disappear, even though there are no termites. That's not really a big deal though because these things are very fast and easy to make and install. So, just keep a few on hand should you need to replace one. After they are installed, just walk around the house every couple of months to see if there are orange dots missing. It couldn't be easier. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to treat your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video and how to make termite monitoring stations: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ma2ZlJmaiKu4o7w.html FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html

Hi Guy! We tried to inspect for termites ourselves using the endoscope method you described in one of your videos. The problem is when we drilled into the wall we discovered there is insulation in there which is as thick as the two by fours so we can’t really see the droppings. We definitely have termites- there are kick out holes and Frass, but it’s been there for probably four years and we don’t know how far in either direction the spread might’ve gone. We also suspect it might’ve started in the attic and migrated down the wall, the kick out holes are above one of our windows and there were termites in the fascia board on the exterior of that window that we have already replaced. But it’s very difficult to access the attic and super hot up there right now, so maybe when things cool down I might try crawling down the beams in the attic to the edge of the house and see if I see any Frass. Anyway I guess I can’t use the endoscope now because of all the insulation in the way?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

From the sound of things, I'm guessing that you have drywood termites. One of the problems with trying to inspect and treat for dry wood termites in insulated walls is that they are, well, insulated. The frass often gets stuck in the insulation and never makes it to the bottom of the wall. The reason that I do not recommend spot treating for drywood termites is because it is almost impossible to find all the galleries. Spot treating is only something you should do if you absolutely cannot afford to get the house fumigated or if you live in a condominium or townhouse. The thing is though that it is highly unlikely that you are going to find all the galleries. The two most common places for drywood termites to enter the building is through the eaves or around windows and doors. It is very common for them to find cracks and crevices around the soffits and fascia boards where they can gain access to the attic. Once inside, they often make their way into the walls as well. The way drywood termites work is they start a small gallery, then after four to seven years that gallery will be capable of producing swarmers. The swarmers are reproductives that will start new colonies. One of these galleries can produce quite a few swarmers that will look for new places in your home to start more galleries. Then, the same thing happens all over again, but multiplied many times over. Over time, you can have a significant number of galleries all around your home. So many in fact that it would be virtually impossible to find them all. Unfortunately, by the time you find out that you have drywood termites at all, then you have already most likely reached this stage of the infestation. To make matters even worse, there is virtually a 100% chance that your neighbors have drywood termites as well and these guys are swarming for several months out of the year. That means additional reproductives have been entering your home for years now. So, the only effective way to eliminate drywood termite infestation is to fumigate the house. Unfortunately, the gas that they use to fumigate your house has no residual action. That means you can be reinfested the moment the tent comes down. The only way to prevent this from happening is to do a preventive treatment every two months, starting before the tent goes up. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. I mentioned in the video to do this every three months, but I have rethought that now and I am recommending every two months. That is because the pesticides lose a lot of their effectiveness after 60 days. They may still be working, but when it comes to dry with termites, I think it's best to have the maximum effect. If you decide to fumigate, then please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. Watching this video can save you a lot of money. I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I understand what a nightmare it is. Also, I understand that I did not exactly give you the information you were hoping for, but I am always 100% honest, and I want you to have all the facts before you do anything. While it is expensive to fumigate, it is even more expensive not to fumigate. Drywood termites are slow eaters, but they may eventually cause a structural failure that will render your home uninhabitable, and those repairs can cost many thousands of dollars. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I'm always happy to provide whatever information you need. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html

@luckynlady3849

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions WOW, that is SO nice of you to give us this detailed answer! Thank you! One more question. There are companies that advertise that they kill the termites with heat, there is a local company here in So Cal called "Ecola". What is your opinion of that? Does it wok? Or should we stick with fumigation?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@luckynlady3849 Actually, that is a really good question. The concept of killing termites with heat it's been around since the late 1980s. Termites cannot withstand temperatures above 120 degrees for more than about 35 or 40 minutes. So, in a laboratory setting, it is very easy to kill termites this way. This may be a little bit more challenging in the field. Keep in mind that the termites live inside the wood. That means the center of each piece of wood must reach a temperature of 120 degrees and it must maintain that temperature for at least an hour to be safe. The question becomes, how hot does it have to get inside the house for the heat to penetrate through the drywall and the exterior wall insulation to fully heat both the 2 X 4's and the exterior sheathing that is underneath the siding? Think about it. The insulation in the walls works both ways. It keeps the hot and cold out of your house and it also keeps the hot and cold inside the house as well. Then there is the question of the attic. They're going to need to heat that too. Even if you successfully heat the attic and the inside of the building to the point that you kill all the termites, how in the world do you heat the fascia boards to 120 degrees, simply by heating the inside of the structure? I mean, the roof is vented, so that it will automatically remove heat. Most homes today have ventilated soffits that allow airflow to constantly enter, and it typically vents out the top of the roof somewhere. So, for this to work, all of that venting would have to be sealed off. Even if that were done, I'm still not sure it will heat the fascia boards to the required temperature. Even though this treatment method has been around a very long time, I do not think that it is been adopted by very many pest control companies. I honestly do not know how hot they would have to make it inside the house and the attic to get it hot enough inside all the wood members to kill the termites. Also, I don't know how long you would need to have that heat source running to achieve that 120-degree temperature in all the wood members. These companies usually tell you that they can do it in a day, but I think it is highly unlikely that they can heat the entire structure past 120 degrees in anything less than several days. Even if they left the heat source running for a week, I don't think they can reach the temperatures required for the entire structure. The house would have to be so hot that you could not touch the siding on the outside. Can you really envision that happening? For those reasons, I do not think this would be an effective treatment. My guess is that just about every other pest controller would agree with me, and that is why they don't do it. Anyway, that's my personal view of it. I would go with the fumigation. I hope that make sense. Be well my friend.

@luckynlady3849

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions yes that makes sense. My hubby pointed out how hot the house would have to get, and what would that do to your electronics and so forth? So we will do the fumigation. Ugh. It's been terribly hot here, and hubby wants to go in the attic and use some Boracare before hand, so we will probably wait until it gets cooler. We will also order the Taurus and the Talstar and spray before hand outside. Once I pay all that money for fumigation, we surely don't want them coming right back! PS- we rebuilt our whole deck a few years ago, and used Boracare on all the untreated wood (4 x4s). If there's any reason that you think we shouldn't wait until it gets cooler outside, lease let me know...Thanks for all your help, this is invaluable!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@luckynlady3849 Bora-Care is a wonderful product. I always recommend treating the entire attic with it. It is fine to wait for the cooler weather to do all of these treatments. Drywood termites are very slow eaters, and it can take years for them to do serious damage, so they will not do much more harm if you wait another couple of months. When treating the attic with Bora-Care, be sure to mix it 1 to 1. The label will tell you that you can mix it 1 to 5, but it is way more effective at 1 to 1. With regard to the deck, Bora-Care must be sealed after it is applied on outside applications. You do not need to seal it in the attic, but if you apply it to a deck, then you have to seal it in some way. If you fail to seal it, then it will not last all that long. However, if you do seal it, then it will last for as long as the integrity of the seal is maintained. Please watch the video below to see the right way to use Bora-Care. I hope that helps. Thank you for those kind words. kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKGmwcN-n8ffmMo.html

Howdy from Dallas. Thank you for answering my questions... 1) What do you think about mixing Boric Acid and Diatomaceous Earth together for dusting? Will the DE attract moisture and ruin the Boric Acid? ______ 2) I make an ant bait of Borax, Sugar and Water. When it's ready it has the consistency of honey. I put the gooey bait inside soda bottle caps (lids) and a little tape around the outside of the cap with masking tape to make it easier for the ant or other small insect to climb up the cap. The problem is that the bait solution dries out in a week or so. Although that particular ant nest is wiped out by then. But as, you know the ant pheromone ant trail is still there for other nest foragers to find. _______ 3. I use Apple cider vinegar and a few drops of dishsoap to attract and kill gnats and drain/fruit flies in a funnel trap. It works okay, but I would like a better idea. Can you help? _____ 4. I own an old rent house, the tenants are always complaining of big black wood roaches coming in through the old plumbing areas. They seem pretty stupid (compared to German Cockroaches) and the tenant's cat catches and eats them. What would be the best approach besides dusting? _____ Appreciatively, Tom

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

1. I do not think it's a good idea to mix any two dusts together. In the case of mixing boric acid with diatomaceous earth, that would make the dust less effective. Boric acid just works better then DE. Now, if you are applying it to an area that gets wet, then boric acid would not be the way to go, and I would use the DE instead. That is because boric acid does not work after it gets wet. 2. I'm not sure if you had a question here, but I can tell you that I never use homemade bait. The only time I would recommend it is if you live in an area, such as Canada, where you cannot buy any of this stuff. If you live in Texas, then why not just buy the commercially available baits that are proven to be effective? I know that some of the homemade baits work just fine, but why spend the time to make something that you can buy ready to use? 3. Fruit flies and drain flies can take up occupancy in your drains and toilets as well. The way I get rid of them is somewhat controversial, but it works great and I don't think it harms anything. All I do is use a can of Raid Ant and Roach Killer and I spray it directly into all the drains in the entire house before I go to bed. In the morning all the flies are dead. Here's the thing though… If you keep buying fruit, particularly bananas, then you are going to continue to get fruit flies. I don't know why it is, but I have found that fruit flies really seem to love bananas. Anyway, I was getting fruit flies every single week just about and so we pretty much just banned all fruit in the house. We haven't had a fruit fly in the house since. If you must have fresh fruit in the house, then I would keep it in a sealed container or plastic bag. Don't be surprised though if you have flies coming out of the container when you open it. For us, it just wasn't worth the hassle. We still have fruit, but we just always get the frozen kind now. Now, I told you that fruit flies and drain flies it can take residence in your toilet. If you have a leaky closet seal under the toilet and the toilet is not sealed where the porcelain meets the floor, it is fairly common for them to take up residence under there. If that is the case, you should remove the toilet and replace the seal. Then, go ahead and seal around the toilet. Also, I have had the flies actually get into the toilet where the water comes out when you flush. Should this occur, there's only one way I know of to treat for it. Let me know if you run into this situation and I will explain the procedure for it taking of it. 4. The first thing you want to do make sure that you are dealing with wood roaches and not a different species. If these are wood roaches, then you should know that they are not an inside pest. They usually do not live long once they get inside the house. However, we certainly do not want them to come in. So, the very first thing I would do is to caulk or seal the areas around the pipes where the roaches are coming in. In fact, I would walk around the entire building and seal any areas where they could possibly enter. Next, it's a good idea to clean up any areas where they may be harboring. You want to make sure that any firewood is stacked up as far away from the building as possible and leaves and other debris should be raked and cleaned up. Make sure that there are no other places where they can hang out and breed. Finally, you can treat the exterior of the building with Bifen IT. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. In the video I recommend that you use Taurus SC and or Talstar P, but the Bifen IT It's a bit cheaper and it is the exact same product as Talstar P. The sprayers that I recommended in the video are no longer available. I will provide you with a link to one that should work very well for you. Keep in mind that the males are capable of flight, and they are attracted to light. So, it is a good idea to keep all exterior lights turned off whenever possible. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of a building: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXmHqaysnpazfM4.html Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide Battery operated sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3MKYWD/?coliid=I1WHD5A3RF25H9&colid=3VDXA5DFBKQ98&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

@Tom-Travels

Жыл бұрын

​@@GuysPestSolutions - That is an excellent response Sir. Have a great weekend!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@Tom-Travels Thank you for those kind words. I hope you have a great weekend as well.

Im back again for some help 😩 My neighbor has an INFESTED wood fence with sub T termites. what is there for me to do to protect my garage and home, if she does not replace the fence? To picture it...Its her fence and then I have a line of small trees that sit infront of her fence. then I have a wide driveway that separates that fence tree line from my home ( all pavement) the garage does sit right next to the fence with out trees and there is already siding on my garage that need replacement. I already put the granuals you shared in the dirt as a barrier on both sides of my pavement driveway and placed in the cracks as you showed in your videos. I also did this around my home and garage and plan to do this every 3 months ( is that correct) along with the spray in the eaves every 2 months. I there anything else I can do since she has that fence and I know the trees in between are also with termites?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I suppose, if it were me, I would spot treat her fence. It's pretty simple really. You buy a can of fipronil foam. I will provide a link below for it. After it arrives, drill small holes along the entire damaged area of the fence that are about four inches apart, and just wide enough for the applicator tip on the foam can to get into the hole. Drill the holes about halfway through the thickness of the wood. Just shoot the foam into each hole for a couple of seconds or until it is either coming out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. You should have foam going into or coming out of each hole. You can do this from your side of the fence, so your neighbor will never know that you even did it. You'll be doing the neighbor a favor because you will be saving the fence. So, it's kind of a win/win situation. This spot treatment will most likely kill off the entire colony, so your house will no longer be at risk from it. With regard to the granules, you will only need to apply them every year. You want to apply them around the entire house, but not directly on concrete or wood. If you have a patio, sidewalk, or driveway, just apply the granules along the concrete, just like you would the side of the house. A liquid pesticide should be applied around all doors and windows, the soffits, fascia boards, pipe penetrations, all cracks and crevices, up the side of the house about 24 to 36 inches and on the ground about two feet from the house out. Soak the area really well where the ground meets the house. I have a new video that I posted a couple of days ago that will show you how to treat your entire yard with a hose and sprayer. Now, I am not saying that you should do this, because it is not exactly consistent with label directions, but I am aware of some folks who use that hose end sprayer to also treat the exterior of their house. It makes the process go three times faster. Doing it this way will not harm you or the environment, but I have to give you a disclaimer that I do not recommend it, because it is not consistent with label directions. In any case, it is a very good idea to treat your entire yard as I described in this new video. If you really want to get rid of the pests, then this is going to kill them where they live. So, if you kill them where they live and you also have a barrier around your entire home, then you are going to be totally pest free. The only pests that can get in after that would be the ones that fly into your house or the ones that you carry in yourself. I will place only below for the video. I hope that helps. Be well Allie. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html

Snakes are abundant this year on the property. Several species but it's the rattlers and copperheads on the porch next to front door having us nervous. Three young children running around so always on alert. Mountain property within twenty feet of cascading waterfalls. Mountain full of hickory trees and oak and very few neighbors. Mice were an issue but spent past several years sealing up EVERY crack and crevice. Put hardware cloth fencing around perimeter of base of house. Case of caulking and lots of sweat and elbow grease later I think I have my mouse problems solved... three and half foot rattlesnake skin found inside the house and no idea where it got in. Found a smaller skin next to woodstove and discovered a small hole maybe 3/4 inch wide in between the stone and promptly sealed. Still no idea how the larger one found a way in or where it is at. Had local pest guy here and he gave the impression that I brought the skin in myself as he couldn't find any crack or crevice that hasn't been sealed. Tried selling me some overpriced snake away pellets. Garters, ringnecks, copperheads, rattlesnakes and other species overly abundant this year. Question is... will chicken or guineas eat snakes or at least be a warning system if one is present. My 5 year old daughter is the adventurous type and I'm out of ideas. Any suggestions would be helpful. Can't get rid of mice as I'm surrounded by miles of acorns and caves, house is sealed to best of everyone's ability, can't stop the flowing waterfall so water is always an issue, also a natural spring within two steps of backdoor so water is everywhere. I easily paid for a caulk manufacturer CEO to have a vacation with the amount I put in every crack and crevice here. Sealed house so well that woodstove couldn't breath properly... suggestions???

@GuysPestSolutions

9 ай бұрын

Snakes are always a challenge. I hate snakes and the poisonous ones definitely need to go. One of the reasons they may be coming into your yard is that you have a food supply there. By that I mean you may have mice, and maybe other things like rats, frogs, or other small critters that the snakes want to feed on. You also need to be careful not to be feeding any of these things yourself without realizing it. The very first thing that you need to do is make sure that you remove any food supply that exists in your yard. That means you need to remove any food that may attract critters like rats and mice. Make sure that all trash cans are tightly sealed and do not leave any food out for dogs and cats. Always feed your pets indoors. You may also be offering them a food supply without realizing it. For example, if you have any standing water laying around the yard, like a small pond where you keep koi fish or something, then those areas can also breed things like frogs. Finally, you can break the food chain. If you ever watched The Lion King, then you've heard about the circle of life. Big critters eat little critters and that includes bugs. So, in order to break the food chain, a good place to start is by getting rid of the bugs. You can treat your yard every couple of months with Bifen XTS. I will give you a link to my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. You may have a very large piece of property, so just treat about 50 feet in every direction. This is going to kill all the bugs in your yard, and it has a residual of around 60 days. It actually does not last 60 days, but it takes a while before the bugs can get reestablished. If there are no bugs, then no food supply for small critters and small snakes as well. If you have no bugs and no small critters, then no food for the snakes. It takes a while for this to be effective, but the snakes will eventually realize that your property is not a good hunting ground, and they will probably hunt elsewhere. That doesn't mean that one will not occasionally come on the property, but it will reduce the likelihood over time. Video on how to treat your yard with a garden sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html Bifen XTS: www.domyown.com/bifen-xts-p-1236.html Garden hose sprayer: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UER1S64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Snakes also like to find hiding places, so make sure that you do not offer them any. This doesn't just mean places they can go under, like firewood, turned over trash cans, piles of leaves, and so forth, but also they like to blend in with the environment. That is why it is common to find them in a garden. They didn't go in your garden necessarily to eat, but to blend in with the environment. Of course, a garden could offer them a food supply if other critters are eating some of those vegetables that you planted. At night they like to hide in places that are particularly dark. Cover is a snake's best friend. They do not like you anymore than you like them and so you will often find them in tall grass where they are not easily seen. So, be sure to keep your lawn mowed. Finally, make sure that you don't have any ditches or holes in the ground that they can get into easily. In other words, do not allow the snakes any place where they can seek cover. If these prevention methods fail, then you need to start bringing out the big guns. Probably the most effective way to keep snakes out of your yard is to exclude them by installing snake proof fencing. You can purchase these products on Amazon and I will give you a link to just one such product as an example. Feel free to look around Amazon or other suppliers to find the fencing that would be best suited for your property and needs. This type of fencing makes it difficult for snakes to go under or climb over them. Snake proof fencing: www.amazon.com/Zevemomo-24-4inch-Hardware-Cloth/dp/B0CBCSYFFY/ref=sr_1_8?crid=ND86A03TSFEL&keywords=snake%2Bproof%2Bfencing&qid=1695326954&sprefix=snake%2Bproof%2Bfenc%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-8&th=1 You can also try some snake repellents. There are any number of them on the market. They typically use environmentally friendly materials that irritate the snakes so that they don't come around. You can experiment with different products to see what works best for you, but I will give you a link to just one of them. Snake repellent: www.domyown.com/snake-out-snake-repellent-p-1096.html There are also snake traps available, but I am reluctant to use them because of the possibility of killing other critters that you may not be interested in getting rid of. So, if you're going to use traps, then try to stick with the ones that are designed to catch snakes alive. I will give you a link to just one of these types of traps. Snake trap: Amazon.com: www.amazon.com/Snake-Trap-Foldable-Commercial-corrugated/dp/B07PKJXLJX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2KCD1VBVHYZQO&keywords=snake+trap+large&qid=1695327092&sprefix=Snake+Trap+Large%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-2 I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Hello sir, I just moved into a mobile home, I have no wood framing linking the ground to the bottom of the mobile home, I wanted to treat the ground which is grass on the outside of the skirting, and dirt on the inside underneath the mobile home, do you recommend I treat both sides of the skirting sir? I appreciate your valuable recommendation, and thanks again

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thanks for your question. Please tell me what the target pest is. Are you looking to prevent termites, treat an existing infestation of termites, or are you trying to treat a different kind of problem? Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters when it comes to termites and some other pests. I just want to make sure that I am giving you the right information. Be well my friend.

what's the best way to control box elder bugs outdoors? Last year there were thousands and they have started to appear already this year. Thanks!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I don't have a video on boxelder bugs, but I can explain how to treat for them. Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. This is a somewhat long explanation and KZread has a limit on how long I can make a response, so email works better. When you email me, please tell me if they are inside your house or just outside. I will give you some pro tips that will take care of the problem for you. I look forward to your email. Be well my friend.

I think I may have watched all of your videos... Working on some insect and termite problems based on your advice. My next question is about English House Sparrows. Do the traps work well to remove the birds so that I can remove the nests and repair the damaged soffit where they are making their homes?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Yes. I think trapping them alive and letting them go is a good idea. Then just repair the damage. There are bird repellents that you can use to keep them away, but I have never used them, so I don't know how well they work. You can find them on Amazon. Be well Bob.

@Bobsansoucie

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions I never said anything about "letting them go"...😬

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@Bobsansoucie I totally understand.

Hi guy. I have just one question, is Taurus sc will Work for fleas ?

@GuysPestSolutions

9 ай бұрын

Taurus SC will kill fleas, but that would not be the way to go about it. To kill fleas, you need to do both an indoor and outdoor treatment. Taurus SC is not recommended for indoor use, and the outdoor treatment requires treating the lawn, and Taurus SC is not a good product for that. So, let me explain what will work. To rid your home of fleas, the first thing you need to do is to vacuum all the upholstered furniture and pet bedding, paying particular attention to places where fleas can hide, like behind cushions. Next, vacuum the floors throughout the house. If you have a vacuum with a disposable bag, then discard the bag outside in the trash. If you have a vacuum with a reusable canister, empty it outside in the trash and then wash it out with the garden hose before bringing it back in the house. Wash all bed linens and pet bedding in your washing machine and dry on high heat. Next, spray a pesticide that is labeled for fleas, on all the floors and on areas of upholstered furniture that does not come in contact with people or pets. To treat floors, hold the can at arm’s length and make sweeping motions across the floor to cover all surfaces. For upholstered furniture, you should spray under the cushions and then any folds that there are. The product that I like best is called PT Alpine Flea and Bed Bug Aerosol. I will give you a link for it. Fleas can be hard to kill, so you may need to do this treatment every two weeks until the problem is solved. If you have pets, then you should treat them as recommended by your vet. The reason fleas got into the house in the first place is because they are outside. If you have a flea problem outside, then there is a good chance you will end up with a flea problem inside. Even if you don't have pets, the fleas will still jump on you when you are outside, and so you can carry them in. Therefore, you need to treat the outside as well. I do this with a hose end sprayer. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. I find that treating the yard every 60 days seems to do the trick. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. PT Alpine Flea and Bed Bug Aerosol: www.domyown.com/pt-alpine-flea-and-bed-bug-aerosol-p-1886.html?pdpv=2&sub_id=25601 Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html

@fightwithoutfight

9 ай бұрын

Thanks Sir. you are awesome!

Guy, I recently found some termite damage in my home with a light amount of current termite activity. I own a large ranch on a slab north central South Carolina with clayish soil. I discovered a mud tube inside coming from the concrete perimeter up the sill plate and advancing behind the drywall and up wall studs after pulling up carpet. I ripped out sections of drywall and found no more activity, only damage. I did apply some Taurus inside to get liquid in the exact crack they were entering from and then proceeded to trench treat the entire perimeter. I started at the damaged area and worked around but I’m wondering why I find no evidence of any activity during the trenching process. Is it possible that the colony is under the slab? Thanks in advance Henry

@GuysPestSolutions

8 ай бұрын

If you did the trenching correctly, then that should solve the problem. It is not unusual not to see any termites while you are trenching. It is somewhat unusual for the colony to be located under the house, but it can happen. This can occur when a termite colony is located very close to the house and just kind of grows to the point where it gets under the house. When that happens, the termites can go directly up to the slab and then enter that way, thereby avoiding your trench. Again, even though this can happen, it is fairly unusual. If the mud tube and the damage is on an exterior wall, then there's a good chance that the colony is not under the house. The only way to know for sure is to monitor the activity. It takes up to 12 weeks for trenching to be fully effective. If you are still seeing activity after 12 weeks, then you may have a colony under the house. Look to see if they have rebuilt the mud tube, or if they are still eating away at any of the wood. I would not do any repairs until you determine if the infestation is gone. If it does turn out that the colony is under the house, then you can use the infested wood against the termites. Simply spraying Taurus SC on the wood is not going to get it done though. Please get back to me 12 weeks after the completion of the trenching, if the problem still exists, and I will explain how to deal with it. Also, please watch my video on how to trench correctly, just to make sure that you did it right. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to properly trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html

@henrymarotte6261

8 ай бұрын

Thanks Guy. Yes I did watch your trenching video and have done it correctly just have a little more to do on the far side of the house. I’m thinking slim chance of them under the slab due to the low moisture content I did a moisture test on the slab and there is none, good drainage too. We must move back into our bedroom and install the wood floor but I’ll keep the trim off till we reach past 12 weeks. I appreciate the excellent info!

@GuysPestSolutions

8 ай бұрын

@@henrymarotte6261 You are very welcome. It sounds like you are on top of it. Well done. Be well my friend.

Hi Guy, I'm interested in seeing a video on silverfish. Thanks.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Okay. I will put that on my list of videos that I need to do. Meanwhile, would you like me to explain how to treat silverfish? I would be happy to write it out for you. Be well my friend.

So I purchased the talstar and the taurus sc Based on your instructions I just bought a new house and I sprayed the house down with my own sprayer using the talstar It's been fairly good I haven't seen a lot of bugs but in Texas we're getting a lot of mosquitoes and it just rained 14 inches and it's only been 30 days since I sprayed The reason I used the talstar was since we had a new house the immediate fact of killing anything in sight and then three months I was going to go back with a Taurus and alternate So again getting back to the point of my question 30 days after I sprayed with the talstar and we just had 14 inches of rain I can see the mosquitoes are out in force? What do you recommend to do should I re-spray with the talstar? Should I keep these two devices and only use them consecutively every 90 days? Is there something else I could use in the interim to help with the mosquitoes and locus they seem to be seeing everywhere. Please let me know your thoughts

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Let me start with the house. You can alternate between the Tallstar P and the Taurus SC, but in your case, you may just want to use the Talstar P every two months. I know that's a bit heavier than I recommend in my video, but that would be within label guidelines and, if you live in Texas, then doing 6 treatments a year instead of 4 may be a good idea because of the type of pests that you have there. You can still use up the products that you have already and then, going forward, you can switch to Bifen IT. The Bifen IT is basically the same product as Talstar P, but it is a bit less expensive. All that rain you are getting is going to bring out a lot of mosquitoes, but treating the house with any pesticide is not going to do anything to prevent mosquitoes. That is because they do not breed on the house, but rather in shallow, standing water. I have a video on how to get rid of mosquitoes and I will place a link below for you. I made that video a while back and the sprayer I show in the video has a habit of falling apart and so I am now recommending a different sprayer. The sprayer I am now recommending requires that you dilute the pesticide, I will give you directions how to do that. I am finding that, doing it this way, works a lot better. You can use either Talstar P or Bifen IT to treat the lawn. So, when I say "Bifen IT," It works exactly the same for Talstar P. Again, these products are exactly the same. The Bifen IT is too thick to be picked up by the siphon tube in the sprayer and that is why it needs to be diluted. To do this, pour 8 ounces of the Bifen IT into the sprayer and then add enough water to fill it to the 32-ounce mark. So, that would be 8 ounces of product and an additional 24 ounces of water. As you are adding the water, swirl it around a bit in the container, so that it mixes as you are adding the water. Before screwing the sprayer onto the holding cup, make sure that the siphon tube is securely into the sprayer head. If the siphon tube falls out, then you will be spraying with plain water. Set the sprayer at four oz per gallon. The labeled dilution rate for the Bifen IT is one ounce per gallon of water, but you diluted it one ounce of product to three ounces of water, so that means you need to apply it at a rate of four ounces per gallon. At this application rate, you will see the holding cup drain down fairly quickly, so you will know that it's working. If the product does not seem to be emptying out of the holding cup fairly quickly, then something is wrong, and you need to stop and figure it out. If the siphon tube is solidly in place, then it could be that the screen on the end of the tube is clogged. If that is clear, then remove the siphon tube from the sprayer and start spraying water without the cup or siphon tube on the sprayer. Put your finger over the hole where the siphon tube goes and see if it is getting suction. If not, then you may need to take the sprayer apart and clean it or buy another one. You always want to clean the spryer really well after each use to avoid clogs. If you like, you can also put a dye in the cup with the pesticide and that will show if the product is being dispensed. I will give you a link to the dye. Attach the sprayer to a garden hose and you are all set. Set the sprayer for a downward fan spray and spray your entire lawn. If you use the dye, then do not spray concrete or the house. Otherwise, I would spray the entire property from the house out to the property line. Some people also just spray the house like this as well, but you are not supposed to. It doesn't hurt anything, but you are not supposed to do it. It is tempting because the sprayer has a nice stream setting that makes treating the eaves super easy. Even pest controllers do it, but it is not in accordance with label requirements because, even though the dilution rate is correct, the application rate will exceed label recommendations. Again, it doesn't cause any harm to people, pets, or the environment, but I cannot recommend that you deviate from the label, if you know what I mean? Pro tips: To make this application quicker and easier, I recommend that you buy 100 feet of one of those super hoses that you see advertised on TV all the time. They are lightweight and make the job go a lot quicker and easier. Also, if you attach a quick disconnect to both the sprayer and the garden hose, it makes refilling the sprayer a lot easier and quicker. These hoses require that you have a shutoff valve at the end of the hose where the sprayer is located, so that you can shut the water off prior to removing the sprayer. Most of the hoses have a shutoff valve built in, but not all of them do. If you buy one that does not have a shut off valve, then you need to add your own. I will place links below for all these items. Please note that these hoses should be stored inside because they deteriorate fairly quickly when left in the sunlight. As you will learn in the video, the key to eliminating mosquitoes is to eliminate their breeding areas. That being said, if you live in Texas, then I would recommend that you spray your lawn every two months to kill a whole host of other pests as well. This will also help to keep them out of your house and out of your life. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat for mosquitoes: kzread.info/dash/bejne/fp-f1LmYpM-ym8o.html Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide Sprayer dye for lawn: www.solutionsstores.com/turf-mark Garden hose sprayer: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UER1S64/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Garden hose: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SYT173G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quick connect fittings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QG6F3Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Shutoff valve: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZYGVFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@paulp4369

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@paulp4369 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Hello Guy, I just found a bunch of swarmer wings on my garage floor. There's a crack in my floor and it looks like they came out from there. I can see some of the termites in spider webs and they are subterranean termites. Black bodies. I've looked around the exterior and the interior of my house and have not found any signs. I do have a crawlspace under my house. I'm assuming this is the next area to check? Are mud tubes the only thing I'm looking for? Anything else to watch out for? I'm hoping I find mud tubes as that's the easiest to deal with. And easiest to know if they're dead or not. Since they came out of the floor crack, is there anything I can apply in the crack to get at them from there? Any additional advice is much appreciated. Thank you very much.

@GuysPestSolutions

2 ай бұрын

I would be happy to assist you with this. Coincidentally, I just released a video on how to properly inspect for termites. I will give you a link to the video. Typically, we treat the entire house when there are subterranean termites. They never colonize in your home. They always colonize in the ground. They must return to the underground colony fairly often to bring food back to the other termites, so we place a chemical barrier around the house that they must pass through. They bring this material back to the colony and share it with the other termites. That will kill all the termites in the colony. No colony, no infestation in your house. The easiest way to do this is with termites granules. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to properly inspect for termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oXuto7iNZ73fotI.html

@tubemcw

2 ай бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions I found a dead tree. A portion of the trunk has split off due to the weight of the branches. Definite termite activity. And it's about 4 feet from the house end of the garage. The crack I mentioned is at the street/driveway end of the garage on the same side as the tree. Can I just mix up some of the Taurus SC and soak the tree trunk and surrounding ground? The water soaks into the ground very easily. The termites eat more of the tree and take it back to the nest and hopefully in no time, they are gone?

@GuysPestSolutions

2 ай бұрын

@@tubemcw Just treating the ground around a tree may not get it done. Long story about why that is. I have a procedure for treating trees, but KZread usually deletes it on me. Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com and I will give it to you. Just ask for the way I treat a dead tree for Eastern subterranean termites. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Will the granules for termites also take care of flying ant swarms I saw all over the ground and boxwoods close to foundation

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

No. Ants are different. Are you sure these are ants and not termite swarmers? Count the body segments. Ants have 3 very distinct segments, but termites only have 2 distinct segments. Please get back to me and let me know. Be well my friend.

@richardwebb9400

Жыл бұрын

Not sure,last year 1st year using granules,going to use again now,thank you so much for your help!

Hello Guy, I really need your help today. I've just found a mess of armyworms in my lawn while gardening and I'm not sure which products would be best to use for eradication? Bifen IT or Permetherin? I know that I need to act fast though, as I'll most likely order online & have to wait for shipping. I searched for a video from you, but couldn't find one so I thought I'd just ask you & pray that you see this in your comments. Hope all is well with you and yours. Thanks Guy!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Definitely Bifen IT. I gave you full directions in your email. At least I think I did. Sometimes things make perfect sense to me, but not always to others. As always, please let me know if you have any questions. I'm always happy to help. Be well Mecka.

Hi i was wondering what Granules works for killing springtail nest? I tried Bifen L/P Insecticide Granules and Demand G Granules but they didn't work for me. I was wondering if you know of any better granules that would be able to get rid of springtail?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

The Bifen LP should have worked. Please note that you cannot simply apply the granules and liquid pesticide over it to get full control of springtails. You also need to clean up the habitats as well. Also, you need to treat any cracks or crevices around your home on the outside and the inside, with D-Fense dust. You also need to apply the dust under baseboards as well. Unfortunately, I do not have a video on how to get rid of springtails, but Solutions Pest and Lawn has a pretty good one. I will give you a link to it. The only difference between what they tell you and what I would do is I would use Bifen IT instead of the Reclaim IT. The only reason for that is the Bifen is cheaper. Also, make sure that you are using enough of the pesticide. The biggest reason why do it yourselfers fail is because they do not use enough of the products. After you apply the granules, make sure that you soak them in really good. Just a light spray with the pesticide is not going to get it done. Also, if you have springtails in your house, then you must treat the inside of the house as well. Please watch the video and, if you still have problems, then get back to me and we'll see if we can't figure something out. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Springtail treatment video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mKufpMlxktfeaLQ.html

@Hunterbay872

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions there was this product it call Tandem made by syngentia it works very good on spring tail not sure if you used that before. Thanks and be well Guy

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@Hunterbay872 Tandem works really well against all sorts of pests, but I don't use it because it is way too expensive. There are more cost-effective products that will do the same thing. It's just a little out of my price range. I do a lot of pest control, so I need something that is a bit more affordable. Tandem costs about $464 a gallon, but Bifen IT only costs about $52 a gallon and the dilution rate is about the same. That is almost nine times the price and the truth is that the results are not really any better. The key to success is to apply these products correctly. Most people fail because they do not use enough of the product. The more expensive the product, the less likely that people will apply enough of it, so I try to recommend products that are as cost effective as possible. Now, I'm not saying you should not use Tandem. It's a fine pesticide and does a great job. All I'm saying is that it's too expensive for my budget. Thanks for sharing. Be well my friend.

Here in the Pacific Northwest we have a running battle with carpenter ants and stink bugs - no massive infestation, but we can't seem to get rid of either of them. The stink bugs fly in, and the carpenter ants appear to live in the ground outside. Disposing of old antifreeze into their holes seems to abate carpenter ants for a while - until weeks later when they appear again in our kitchen. We leave a mixture of boric acid, jelly, and maple syrup as bait for them, and this does seem to reduce their numbers but doesn't get completely rid of them. Do you have any magic to get rid of carpenter ants or stink bugs?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I can help you with that. Please watch my video on carpenter ants. I don't have a video for stink bugs, but here is how you treat them. Start by treating your yard and the exterior of your home. Please watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. Make sure that you treat up the side of the building about 36 inches. It is also a good idea to treat around doors and windows, and the eaves of the house as well. You are not supposed to treat around doors, windows, and the eaves with a hose end sprayer, but it can be done. Normally we use a battery operated or pump-up tank sprayer. You should also treat any cracks and crevices that you find around the house, including pipe penetrations. In other words, you should treat any openings where stink bugs, or any other bugs for that matter, may decide to enter your home. You should also seal up any openings around your home as well. If you are having a problem with stink bugs inside the house, then you can treat them with PT Phantom. Just follow label directions and apply the product wherever you have any problems. This product is an aerosol that may be applied to cracks and crevices. You can also purchase a hand duster and apply D-Fense dust under appliances, in pipe penetrations, around outlets, or any area where you are having a problem, where the dust will not be disturbed by people, pets, or air currents. To treat outlets, remove the cover and puff some dust into the wall void. Do not apply the dust onto the wiring or the outlet itself. You only need to treat the interior one time, as long as you continue to keep up on the exterior treatment. The exterior treatment needs to be done every 60 days in warm weather. You do not need to treat in freezing temperatures. Please wear gloves, eye protection, and a respirator when applying all pesticides. The are safe after they dry. Be well my friend. Video on carpenter ants: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hpltpLd8kay3irw.html Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html PT Phantom: www.domyown.com/pt-phantom-ii-pressurized-insecticide-p-1212.html Duster: www.domyown.com/bellow-hand-duster-p-106.html D-Fense dust: www.domyown.com/dfense-deltamethrin-dust-p-2428.html

what repels honey bees? they come to my shed every year and have to hire a bb keeper to come and get them. will spraying vinegar or other natural spray on my shed stop them from nesting or bearding on my shed ? thank you!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

As you know so well by now, you are not allowed to kill these things. That doesn't mean you cannot prevent them. After the hive is removed, you can treat with a repellent pesticide like Bifen IT. The bees recognize it as a pesticide and they stay away from it. If they do contact it, they will most likely die before getting back to the hive, so they will not share it with the other bees and so the hive will not die off. You should also seal any cracks or holes in your building. Honey bees can enter through even the smallest of openings, so it's important to seal any cracks or holes in your shed with caulk or weather-stripping. Remove any potential nesting sites. Honey bees are attracted to dark, enclosed spaces, so it's important to remove any potential nesting sites from around your shed. This includes things like old tires, birdhouses, and flowerpots. You can also plant bee-repelling plants. There are a number of plants that bees don't like, such as mint, citronella, and lavender. Planting these plants around your shed can help to deter bees from nesting. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Is buying the additional termite warranty worth it after tenting? It's $70 a month and is renewable for 10 years.

@GuysPestSolutions

9 ай бұрын

The short answer is no. The termite warranties are a waste of money. They are just a rip off scam that pest control companies do. If you had subterranean termites, and if they did the job correctly, then you should be good for up to 10 years. No need for a warranty. The usually provide some warranty for free that is usually at least a year. If they are gone after a year, then you are good to go. Don't waste your money. If these were drywood termites and they tented your home, then most of the time the warranty is for spot treating, which is worthless for treating drywood termites. Again, don't waste your money. Please let me know if you had subterranean termites or drywood termites and the way the pest control company treated the problem. Armed with that information, I can tell you how to protect yourself going forward, for a lot less than $70 a month. I hope that helps. Be well Marcy.

Hi there guy. I have arachnaphobia. What product do u recommend to keep the spiders gone away from my house...I have a pest control company that I hire but does spiders do not care..

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

We have something in common. I hate spiders too. The good news though is that spiders are really pretty easy to get rid of. If you stop and think about it, spiders are not exactly getting beamed into the house from the Starship Enterprise. Right? They're coming in from the outside. Therefore, the solution is pretty simple. If you do a proper exterior treatment of your home, every three months, then you will no longer have spiders getting in the house. In fact, a proper exterior treatment is going to stop almost every other kind of bunk imaginable from entering your home. I just happen to have a video explaining how to do this and I will place a link below for you. In that video I recommend using either Taurus SC or Talstar P, but you can just go ahead and use a product called Bifen IT. it's pretty much the same thing as the Talstar P, but it's a bit less expensive. Just follow the procedure in the video every three months, using the Bifen IT, and you should be good to go. Also, please note that the sprayers I use in the video are no longer available. Therefore, I will also give you a link to this prayer that I recommend. Now that you have prevented additional spiders from entering your home, let's talk about how you get rid of the ones that are already inside. Fortunately, spiders are super easy to kill. Now, I could recommend some professional products that would do the job, but that really isn't necessary. When it comes to killing spiders, all you need is a can of Raid Flying Insect Killer, or some similar product, that you can buy from Walmart or any other place like that. You do not want to buy the Raid Ant and Roach Killer though. Simply spray the spider webs with the raid and the spiders will die fairly quickly. Then, just knocked down the spider webs with a broom or dust mop. Also spray that raid under the bed, behind the headboard, under and behind dressers, and any other place where you are likely to find spider webs. After you kill all the spiders inside the home, you will no longer get new ones entering because you treated the exterior. It's pretty much that simple. So, in this case, I think you can go ahead and fire your pest control and save yourself money, while doing a far more effective job yourself. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the exterior of your home: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXmHqaysnpazfM4.html Bifen IT: www.solutionsstores.com/bifen-it-insecticide Alternate supplier for Bifen IT, if Solutions will not ship it to you: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=552

@TheAleman03

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions wow thanks for all the info.i will work on it..greatly appreciated..

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@TheAleman03 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Hi Guy, I just got some fire wood a couple of weeks ago. I now have termites in the firewood. Do you have a good method to eliminate them from the firewood pile? I plan to treat around my house and wood fence with granulated treatment you recommend.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

How you treat the firewood depends upon the species. If these are subterranean termites, then they are going to die with no treatment at all. However, if they are drywood termites, then you need to get that wood out of the house right now. The best thing to do is throw it away or burn it outside. These guys will screw you up really bad. If you feel like you must treat it, then you could shoot a fipronil foam into all the holes in the wood, until the foam is coming back out at you. The problem though is that it may not be safe to burn the wood in your home after you treat it with fipronil. If you want to know what the species is, then watch my video on the subject. I will place a link below. There is a map in that video. If you live in the red area, then get rid of the firewood. Otherwise, you are probably okay. If the firewood came from your property, then you should treat your house. If you are not in the red area, then use the granules to treat. If you are in the red area, then get your house inspected for drywood termites. Please get back to me if you have an infestation. I hope that helps. Be well Kate. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n41oqK-vcavYfaQ.html Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol

@kateryan4134

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you. The wood is outside, it didnt come from my property. Ive had it here for about three week. They are leaving piles of sawdust mixed with a darker brown substance. I took a photo, but I don't know if I can upload it. I looked around my house I don't see any signs of termites. I bought the granulated product you recommend and you can still get it at Home Depot. I had to order it. I will treat around my house, garage, and wood fence. From your description it appears I have dry wood termites. I'm getting rid of the wood asap. Thank you all the information. I really appreciate it.

@kateryan4134

Жыл бұрын

By the way I live in Montana.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@kateryan4134 You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please remind me that you are the lady with the firewood. I get a lot of emails and it is easy to confuse people. You are my only firewood person, so I will remember you. Good move getting rid of the firewood. If these guys get into your house, it can cost thousands to get rid of them. Be well Kate.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@kateryan4134 Wait a minute. You do not have drywood termites in Montana. Are you sure that these guys are termites and not carpenter ants? Please have a look at my video on how to tell the difference. I will place a link below. You should probably throw away the firewood anyway, but there is a way to save it if these are carpenter ants. Termites vs Carpenter Ants: kzread.info/dash/bejne/l6J-srVmmJqWctY.html

Hi, I have German roaches in my home. I watched your video as well on how to get rid off them but unfortunately I am unable to find those products here in Canada. A week ago pest control guy sprayed my entire home and when I asked him about these products that from where to buy, he didn't answered. Right now I only have boric acid that I am depending upon, any alternative suggestions?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

It is very difficult to deal with cockroaches in Canada because the restrictions on the sale of pesticides to non-licensed individuals prevents you from getting the products that you need. To make matters worse, you can't really hire pest controller because they don't know what they're doing. About the best you can hope for with a pest controller is that they're going to limit the number of cockroaches, but they will never get rid of them. All is not lost though. The good news is that you are able to obtain boric acid. You should apply it in all the places that I show in my video and make sure that you apply it under all the baseboards in the entire house as well. Basically, you want to apply the boric acid virtually every place where it will not be disturbed by people, pets, or air currents. Please note that you cannot mix boric acid with water and you cannot apply it in places that are wet because that will render it ineffective. Next, you should be able to buy food grade diatomaceous earth in Canada. You can mix DE with water and apply it every place I tell you to use Nibor-D in my cockroach video. In the interest of full disclosure, I have to tell you that I have never tried DE to treat a cockroach infestation. I do know though that it does kill cockroaches and I do know that it can be mixed with water. The exact dilution rate is unclear, but I have read that you can mix it 1/2 cup of DE to 2 cups of water. This is going to probably leave a white film on everything you spray it on, but you should know that, after your infestation is gone, the DE can be easily washed off. I will place a link below for a video that I found on the internet. Be sure to spray the DE on every possible surface imaginable that will not be damaged by water. The key to controlling German cockroaches his thoroughness. You must apply a pesticide every single place that a cockroach could possibly place its foot. I know that it is horrible to live with this DE covering just about everything, but it sure does beat living with cockroaches. After the infestation is gone, then you can go ahead and start cleaning everything where it was applied. If you live in a single-family home, this should take about a year. Actually, it will probably be faster than that, but I would leave it in place for at least a year, just to be sure. Unfortunately, if you live in an apartment, condominium, townhome, or any other type of adjoining living units, then you can never remove the boric acid or DE. After you are finished applying the boric acid and the DE, then you should also apply a bait. Obtaining a good bait may be difficult in Canada, but there are a couple of options that you can try. See if Amazon will ship Terro T502 Roach Killer to you. This bait works very much the same way as the ones I show in my video. Again, in the interest of full disclosure, I must tell you that I have never tried this particular bait. However, I have heard very good things about it. I want you to forget the directions though. This product allows you to control the amount of product that is dispensed, so always place it on the minimum flow possible. You only want to use very small dots, like I show in my video. If you cannot purchase this product, then see if you can obtain Harris Roach Tablets. This product is pretty much just made from boric acid, so it should be legal in Canada. I do not like it as good because you cannot apply it like a gel, but it's better than nothing. If you cannot obtain any of these products, then you can try making your own bait. This is something else that I have personally never tried. However, you can try to mix equal amounts of sugar and DE with a little water to create a paste. I have also heard that you can mix equal amounts of baking soda and sugar together with water to create a paste. I do not think this paste will stick well two surfaces, so you may have to simply put a little bit of it on pieces of paper and place them strategically where the cockroach activity is. I have no idea if either of these formulations will work because I have never tried them, but I think it's worth a shot, if you cannot find a commercially made product. Never apply any type of pesticide over the top of a bait because that will prevent the cockroaches from eating it. That is why you always use the bait last. I am so sorry that you are having this problem and I hope that these suggestions will be help. Be well Sophia. Video on diatomaceous earth: www.essentialhomeandgarden.com/how-to-apply-diatomaceous-earth/ Terro T502 roach killer: www.amazon.com/Terro-T502-Killer-Kills-American-Roaches-3/dp/B09F7Q9VSS/ref=pd_day0fbt_img_sccl_2/143-1543839-2017133?pd_rd_w=TURdK&content-id=amzn1.sym.0a3d352f-2699-4ba2-810c-59dcb4abfa1b&pf_rd_p=0a3d352f-2699-4ba2-810c-59dcb4abfa1b&pf_rd_r=2HGW90WM6VQ5R58923ZJ&pd_rd_wg=3qxow&pd_rd_r=3f842146-1738-4930-8f13-0b725816626e&pd_rd_i=B09F7Q9VSS&psc=1 Harris roach tablets: www.amazon.com/Harris-Famous-Silverfish-Killer-Tablets/dp/B001B4ZNGA/ref=asc_df_B001B4ZNGA?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80058242182206&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583657821233169&psc=1

@sophiaijaz7811

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so very much for such a detailed reply. I will try to find the suggested products and will act upon your instructions as well. Right now I am using boric acid+ sugar+ boiled eggs yolk bait as I found it online wih some good reviews on it. I've already tried the baking soda and sugar bait but unfortunately that didn't worked at all for me. I will follow other instructions and will post outcomes here. Thanks again for your help and I really appreciate your efforts that you are doing to help and educate people.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@sophiaijaz7811 Thank you for the feedback on the baking soda and sugar bait. I have never tried any of the homemade baits before, so now I know not to suggest this one. Please let me know how the diatomaceous earth works for you. I have not received any feedback on it yet. Thanks. I wish you well and I hope this solves your problem.

Hello Guy, Can you use Taurus SC/Fipronil and Bayer Bio Advanced Granules together?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You cannot use them on top of each other because the imidacloprid actually decreases some of the effectiveness of the fipronil. Different sides of the house would be fine. Be well my friend.

@douglasunruh256

Жыл бұрын

@Guy's Pest Solutions Thankyou!!! That helps a lot. Really like your video's...

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@douglasunruh256 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

9/5 - Another question. Six days ago, I took in two abandoned kittens. I've had them in caged quarantine since then, because they had fleas. I have dusted them, and their space with DE. I've put flea drops behind their neck on their skin, and I've put flea collars on them. I didn't want with mess with giving them a flea bath. 2 and 4 days later, I have re-dusted them with DE. Yesterday - 5 days later, I have seen (inspected) 3 fleas on on kitten and 1 flea on the other cat. My question.... how much longer should I keep them in quarantine? Thanks - Tom

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I do not want to seem like I'm evading your question, but the truth is that I am not a veterinarian. Pest controllers never treat animals. Just the environment that they live in. So, I am not qualified to give advice about how to treat cats or how long it's going to take for that treatment and work. If you want to know how to treat your house for fleas, then you came to the right guy. I can tell you though that, if it were me, I would not allow the cats to roam free until they are free of fleas. If you have any bedding inside those cages, then I would treat that every day by washing it. If that is not possible, then I would spray it with PT Ultracide. While you have the cat out of the cage, I would spray the entire cage with PT Ultracide. This is a treatment that you can do every 14 days until the fleas are gone. This product will not harm the cat after it has dried. You may also want to spray underneath the cage and about a 2-foot radius around the cage as well. I hope that helps. Be well Tom. PT Ultracide: www.solutionsstores.com/ultracide-flea-killer

@Tom-Travels

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions - Followup. Today I came home from work (Day 6 of kittens). I didn't see (inspect) any fleas or flea dirt on one of the kittens but I did see two fleas on the male kitten's belly. - Fed up, I prepped a fleacide soap bath, heated the cage room (small extra bathroom) to 95F, grabbed the kittens, one at a time, and bathed them for 10 minutes each in the fleacide soap water. Then I left them wet, put them back in the cage. An hour later, they are doing fine and air dried. - I inspected the bath water. I counted about 20 fleas that had instantly died in the bath water. The kittens have IGR flea collars and 30 day flea drops behind their necks. The drops travel all over their bodies via the cat's body oils. So, I'll inspect and bathe again in two days. and inspect the bath water. - The PT is a good idea. I have plenty on hand for my bed bug killing jobs for Terminix. I also have concentrated natural natural Pyrethrin. I'll still dust the cage area with DE too, but I haven't seen a problem there (yet). - I'm not letting them out of the cage until the fleacide baths are completely negative for fleas, flea dirt, etc. Then the skin oil flea treatment drops and IGR collars will take full effect. - Thanks for your suggestions and kind thoughts. Enjoy your week!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@Tom-Travels It sounds to me like you have it licked. I don't see how that can fail. Good job. Be well Tom.

@Tom-Travels

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions - Thanks. After work today, I inspected the kittens (belly, base of tail and back of neck) usual flea pet hideouts. No fleas. No Eggs spotted but I did see one flea dirt (flea feces) on one of the kittens. - Tomorrow they will get their second flea-cide bath and I will PT the cage and area again. Amazing that the flea saga has lasted at 7 days. The IGR's I'm also applying will keep any new flea eggs from hatching on them or their environment. - Also I will set out flea traps near their automatic food feeder, litter box area, and sleeping area. That will help monitor any resurgent population. - The good news is that the young kittens will easily adapt to flea baths and just consider them a necessary part of their life. A good tolerance for them to have their entire lifespan. - Enjoy your weekend. I'm off for a few days myself. Cheers Tom

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@Tom-Travels Those fleas don't stand a chance with you on the job. Those are very lucky cats. Be well Tom.

I'm having issues with tiny bugs on the window sills. They are smaller than a pin head. The windows are closed, but the are still getting in. Not sure what bug they are. My neighbor said someone told him they were called concrete bugs? I have sprayed with Ortho and Spectrcide, not working.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

It is difficult to say what is going on without actually seeing the pest involved. Just based on the size though, I'm thinking that you are most likely looking at some type of mite and I would guess that it could be a clover mite. I do not have a video on this topic, however Solutions Pest and Lawn has a pretty good one. I will give you a link to their video. The only thing I don't like about their video is the way they treat the outside of the house. I think the way they do it is kind of light duty and may not get the job done for you. Therefore, I recommend that you watch my video on how to do a proper exterior treatment of your house. Instead of using the Reclaim IT, I recommend that you treat your house with Bifen IT. In my video I recommend using Taurus SC and Talstar P, but I find that the Bifen IT Is a little cheaper and just using that product in your case should be fine. Just treat the exterior of your house every 90 days with the Bifen IT, and follow the other instructions in the solutions video and you should be good to go. Even if this turns out to not be clover mites, this treatment should work on whatever that bug is. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Clover mite video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/nIenqJmuo9yuc8o.html My video on how to treat the exterior of your home: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXmHqaysnpazfM4.html

@dane5896

Жыл бұрын

Thank you, looking at videos, I believe they are springtails. They jump when I try to kill them.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@dane5896 If these guys are springtails, then they are treated very much the same way as mites. Unfortunately, I do not have a video on springtails either. Solutions Pest and Lawn does have one on springtails though that is pretty good. Like before, I would not use the Reclaim IT. I think using Bifen IT works just as well but it costs less. The reason why Solutions is pushing Reclaim IT is because they manufacture that product. Of course, they are now calling it Supreme IT. Other than that, and the way they actually treat the exterior of the house, they have a pretty good video. I think you should still treat the entire exterior of the house as I show in my video, because it's just more thorough and more effective. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Springtail video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/mKufpMlxktfeaLQ.html

Hi, Guy. Can I email you a picture of ant that I keep seeing in my apartment. I want to know what kind it is and how to get rid of them.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Ants can be a little tricky to identify from photos because they are so small. The photo needs to be very close up and very well focused. No blur at all. If you want to take a shot at it, (No pun intended) then you can send a photo to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. There are a couple of ways to go about dealing with ants. There is the cheap, slow way, and there is the fast, expensive way. The cheap, slow way is to bait them. Just put down a gel bait in very small dots along the ant trails that are about 6 to 12 inches apart. Also, put some protein bait in bait stations and place them along the ant trails as well. I will give you links to the products. Most of the time, they will go for the sweet bait, but some of them may go for the protein. Now, if these ants are really big, like 1/4 inch long, then you need to let me know because they may be carpenter ants. Those guys need a lot more treatment. Baiting can take a few days to a couple of weeks to work, but it will usually kill off the entire colony. If they are not gone after a couple of weeks, then you need to go nuclear on them. Just get back to me and I will explain how to do that. It never fails, but it is a lot more work and costs a lot more too. So try baiting first. I hope that helps. Be well Renee. Sweet bait (Small dots about 6 to 12 inches apart): www.domyown.com/advion-ant-bait-gel-p-932.html Protein bait (Place in bait stations along ant trail): www.domyown.com/advance-375a-select-granular-ant-bait-p-39.html Bait stations: www.domyown.com/bait-plate-stations-p-722.html

Guy, I just moved to TX in a new build that backs up to a green belt in a new development and came across our first scorpion next to our bed. We've already had an organic pest guy for about 2 months, and the earwigs, June bugs, roaches, crickets, wolf spiders, etc. have decreased significantly. I've stuffed copper mesh in the brick weep holes, caulked all penetrations, and want to know what else I can do to keep these and other things out. I still want to stay organic inside due to the dogs, but am ready to go scorched earth outside as long as it doesn't hurt my dogs if they end up eating some grass? I've heard Cykick is good, as is Onslaught. Anything else I should be doing? The pest guy will be coming out to put cimexa in the attic, granuals in the yard, in addition to his normal routine.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I understand why a lot of people want to remain organic when it comes to pesticides. I think it's mostly because of the reputation that pesticides got back in the 20th century. When I got into this business back in 1981, pesticides were really dangerous. The thing is though, that is not the case anymore. In the late 1990s the EPA banned all of those products that were harming the environment and people and pets as well. Now, pesticides are required to be safe for children, pets, and the environment. That's right. After a pesticide has dried, it has to literally be safe for children to play on. Also, modern day pesticides are designed to stay where you put them, so they don't leach into the ground or run off into the groundwater and end up in the ocean or your drinking water. The fact is that almost all pesticides today are just about as safe as common laundry detergent. If you would like to know more about the safety of pesticides, please watch my video on the subject. I will place a link below for you. So, you can put your mind to ease about using pesticides because they will not harm your dog at all, after they dry. As for the pesticide that you should be using, I do not think Cy-Kick Is a good option. If it were me, I would go with Onslaught FastCap. You can have your pest controller do this treatment or you can do it yourself. Basically, all you do is mix it up in a garden sprayer and spray a band around the entire house 18 inches from the ground up the wall and 18 inches from the wall out on the ground. Personally, I like to soak the area where the ground meets the soil really well, but most pest controllers will not do that. You should also spray a band around all windows and doors, as well as spraying pipe penetrations and other cracks and crevices, including the weep holes. You can also spray any areas where you do not want to find scorpions, such as patios. I mean, you don't really want to lay down on a patio lounge chair to discover that you just laid down on top of a scorpion. Shake the bottle really well before you mix it in the sprayer. I recommend reapplying the product every 60 days. I will place a link below it. Now, even though I told you that pesticides are safe, and they are, that doesn't mean you should just go around and apply them indiscriminately every place you want to. For one thing, they cost money. So, there is no need to apply them in places where it is not necessary. Also, you need to wear protective equipment when you apply these products, so even though they are safe after they dry, you do need to be somewhat careful with them while you are using them. For those reasons, I always think that less can be more. If you treat the exterior of the house, then you should not be getting scorpions inside the house anymore. That means, that I would not go ahead and treat the inside of the house, unless I was still having the problem a couple of weeks after the initial application outside. There is a good chance that the perimeter application is going to end the problem for you. If it doesn't, then you are allowed to use the Onslaught FastCap inside, in areas where you were seeing scorpions. Just follow label directions or ask me for advice on the interior treatment at that time. Treating the addict with CimeXa it's a good idea, but it may not be necessary if you do the exterior treatment with the Onslaught FastCap. Again, you can take a wait and see attitude on this if you like. If the exterior treatment that you do with the Onslaught FastCap didn't work for you, then you can always go ahead and treat the attic. I don't think treating the addict is going to cause any harm, but you may not need to spend the money. I promise you that the Onslaught FastCap is going to work a lot better than the organic stuff that the pest controller is using. So, if you do this yourself, you can pretty much fire the pest controller. I'm sure he's a nice guy, but there's no need spending money on something you don't need. Also, you did not mention what part of Texas you live in, so I must advise you that there are places in your state where you have drywood termites. These guys literally fly to your house and infest your wood. If you live in an area where drywood termites are a problem, then I would urge you to also treat the soffits and fascia boards. In addition to preventing drywood termites, treating the eaves is going to prevent things like spiders and wasps from building nests up there. If you would like to know if you live in an area where drywood termites are a problem, then have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood termites are active. If you live in the red area on the map, then you should be treating your eaves. Most of the time, pest controllers will not do this treatment, so you usually need to do it yourself. If you would like to watch a video on how to do a proper exterior treatment, I will place a link below for you. Just use the Onslaught FastCap instead of the Taurus SC or Talstar P and also treat the patios. A battery-operated sprayer makes the job go a lot faster, so I will place a link below for one. The sprayers listed in my video are no longer available. I also have a video on how to prevent drywood termites. It's pretty much the same treatment as I show in my video on how to treat the exterior of your home, except it does not include the ground treatment, but I will give you a link to it anyway, just in case you are not bored enough from the other videos. Lol. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how safe are pesticides really: kzread.info/dash/bejne/m2uirrFvetbFY7Q.html Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n41oqK-vcavYfaQ.html Video on how to treat the exterior of your home: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZXmHqaysnpazfM4.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html Onslaught FastCap: www.solutionsstores.com/onslaught-fastcap-insecticide Sprayer: www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3MKYWD/?coliid=I1WHD5A3RF25H9&colid=3VDXA5DFBKQ98&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

@xtrmwakeborder

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you! Purchased the Onslaught, backpack sprayer, and some PPE. I live a little north of Dallas, so I'll have to watch the termite video to see if that's going to be an issue as well. I'll start with the outside, and move inside if that doesn't work. I've got 250' of stone wall up against the green belt, so I'll probably have to spray that as well. Well worth it if I can keep these guys away.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@xtrmwakeborder Dallas should not be having a problem with drywood termites, so I think you are good there. It sounds like you have a great plan. Be well my friend.

@xtrmwakeborder

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Bad news Guy, it looks like I have more watching to do. Our pest guy found 20-30 dry wood termites in our 2-month-old garage this weekend. Some alive, and some dead. I'll have to watch that video.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@xtrmwakeborder I find that somewhat perplexing. While you do have drywood termites in Texas, as far as I know, they have not got as far north as Dallas yet. If these actually are drywood termite, then that is important information for me to know. I am somewhat skeptical though. Drywood termites typically operate fairly close to the Gulf of Mexico. I would not expect to find them as far north as Dallas. So, before you start treating for drywood termites, I suggest that you get a second opinion. Even though I think it is unlikely that you have drywood termites, you do have Formosan termites where you live, that look very similar to drywood termites. It is very possible that your pest controller did not correctly identify the species. If these are Formosan termites, then you have a big problem and you need to get on it really fast. These guys can eat you out of house and home very quickly. Drywood termites are very slow eaters and so you do have some time to deal with them, but if they are Formosan, then you have to get on it really fast. So, I recommend that you waste no time getting a second opinion. Regardless of what it is, I can help you with it. Be well my friend.

Good day, I been having a problem with the termite inside our house it starts with the main entrance of our house and eat 1/4 of it. We put a termite spray on it but it change its location to drawer and now on bookshelves. What should be the best item to kill all termites permanently inside the house and avoid them on changing location ?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for reaching out to me. Before you can address the problem, you need to find out which species of termite you have. Just based on your description, I’m kind of guessing that you live in an area we're both drywood and Formosan termites are a problem. This sounds like it could be either one. So, I need you to do bit of homework. Please watch my video on how to determine termite species. I will place a link below for it. There is a map in that video that shows where drywood and Formosan termites are a problem. If you live in the red or orange areas of the map, then you probably have one of these species. If you do not live in the red or orange areas on the map, then you are in luck, and this is a common species of termites that can be easily eliminated. This video also explains how to tell if you have drywood termites by looking for frass and kick out holes. It will also explain what mud tubes are and where to find them. Please get back to me after you watch the video and let me know where you live and if you are finding mud tubes or frass and kick out holes. Armed with this information, I can tell you how to solve your problem. Meanwhile, please stop treating with over-the-counter products. They are likely to make the problem worse. I look forward to hearing from you. Be well my friend. Video on how to determine termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n41oqK-vcavYfaQ.html

@von7345

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for responding about my comment. Base on what I watched I basically have a subterranean termite base on the tube on our wall and the look of the termite. I actually live on a tropical country Philippines to be specific and I been dealing with the termite as I say earlier I use 2 different method and they only change the spot but didn't entirely clear/kill the colony. Looking forward to your response Thank you ❤️

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@von7345 You have a pretty wide variety of termites in the Philippines, but only about four species I think that are of concern to homeowners. The problem is though that even though you know these are subterranean termites, they still may be Formosan termites, which are active where you live. You also have species of termites there that I am just not familiar with. So, before you can effectively attack the problem, you really do need to identify the species you're dealing with. Logic would dictate that, if these are subterranean termites, then you are going to need to trench around the entire building. So, I think that would be a good place to start, regardless of the species. The thing is though that you have some species in the Philippines that behave quite differently than anything that we have here in the US. Therefore, trenching may not be indicated in your case. Still, based on nothing else but what you were telling me, I think trenching is where I would start. If these guys turn out to be Formosan termites, then you may need to look for colonies inside your walls as well. That is because, unlike most species of subterranean termites, Formosan termites can colonize in what we call "cartons" in your walls. Here in the US, termite inspections are normally free, but I don't know if they charge in the Philippines. In any event, you may want to have an inspection done by a professional to determine the exact species that you are dealing with. Make sure that the inspector lists the exact species in the estimate and always ask for a written treatment plan. You want to know exactly how they plan to treat the problem and what chemicals they plan to use. Naturally, if you can obtain the pesticides where you live, then this is something you can probably do yourself. Another thing that I do not know is what pesticides are available in the Philippines. So, I'm kind of flying blind here. If you can at least get the species identified, then I may be able to assist you in figuring out an effective treatment plan. Believe me when I tell you I am more than happy to help, but you need to also understand that this will be something of a learning experience for me as well. Be well my friend.

@von7345

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions I'm more than happy that you even reply on my comment. Maybe I should really have to seek for a professional for this one I'm not even familiar that we have a wide varieties of termite in my country. Again thank you for the response and keep safe always ❤️

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@von7345 I think, at a minimum, you should get an estimate from a pest control company to at least see what species you are dealing with. If estimates are free where you are, then I would recommend that you get several. When it comes to getting work done on your home, regardless of what it is, then it is always a good idea to shop. I have seen prices vary quite a bit in this industry. Please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. I will place a link below for it. If this turns out to be an easy kind of subterranean termite, and if you can get the correct pesticide, then this may be something that you can do yourself. Otherwise, you should seriously consider hiring a pro. I wish you well with it. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q2GVmrqIobnYnKg.html

Last question for today: after the last rain we had here in south Texas, I believe They were Florida flying ants, I had a lot in my back yard, all of them seemed dying, some of them were forming like a conglomerate of ants, what freaked me out, I saw a bunch of them near the kitchen vent, so I quickly boiled some water w mint, they were gone few minutes after I did that. Did some research and I think they were matting? So more research later I stumbled across your videos, and bought Taurus SC and Talstar, I ve just finished spraying w Taurus SC, but 1 week ago I did w Ortho that I got from Home Depot, I don’t see ants inside my house, I don’t have a ladder,although I am planning to get one and spray inside the attic, Is it a good idea? Should I use Taurus or Talsar? Big-Huge THANKS FOR MAKING THESE VIDEOS

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

If you live in South Texas, then you are subject to drywood termites and what you are describing sounds a lot like them. You did the right thing by spraying with Taurus SC, but you should not have sprayed with the Ortho because that will prevent the Taurus SC from working. Unfortunately, you cannot reapply the Taurus SC because it will not work after you apply the Ortho. The earliest you would be able to reapply the Taurus SC would be in another three months. However, you should immediately apply the Talstar P. If you have any of the Ortho left, then just get rid of it. Try to obtain a specimen of one of these flying things and send me a photo of it. I need the photo taken so that the bug's feet are on the ground and the back is facing up. Put the camera in macro mode and take the photo as close as you can get, while keeping it in focus as best you can. Then, turn it on its back, feet up, and take another photo. I need very clear photos in order to make an identification. It is very difficult to identify insects if the photos are out of focus. You can send the photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. When you send the photos, please remind me who you are because I get a lot of e-mail and it is difficult to keep everybody straight. Do not use the Taurus SC in the attic. You can use the Talstar P in the attic, but you would be better off treating all the wood up there with Bora-Care. I will give you a link to a video that shows how to use it and a link to where to get it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to use Bora-Care: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKGmwcN-n8ffmMo.html Bora-Care supplier: www.solutionsstores.com/bora-care

@luispablolee77

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Sir, Thanks a lot again, I emailed you.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@luispablolee77 Okay. I will have a look.

Hi Guy! Can you make a video or discuss what to do for carpenter bees? They are destroying my pergola and scaring my children. Thank you.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I do not have a video on how to treat carpenter bees, but I can explain how to do it. The first thing you should know is that the carpenter bees are not doing most of the damage. It's true. The carpenter bees are boring holes into the wood, but that is only causing a little of the damage. You see, after the bees get into the wood, they lay eggs in there that turn into larvae. Those larvae eat wood to survive, much like termites do, and that is what is causing most of the damage. When the larvae mature, they bore back out of the wood, leaving behind hollowed out wood, with large exit holes. Therefore, you cannot end the problem by treating the bees. You need to treat the larvae. To do this you need to buy a fipronil foam and shoot it into all the holes, until it is coming back out at you, or the other holes. The foam will expand to several times its original size and get into all those tunnels that were created in the wood by the larvae, thereby killing them. Now that you have treated the larvae, you can go ahead and seal up the holes with wood filler, caulk, Bondo, or whatever works best in your case. After you have the damage repaired, you need to make sure that you do not get anymore carpenter bees. There are a couple of ways of doing this, and which method you choose will depend upon the kind of wood you are dealing with. If you have wood that has not been treated with anything, like a sealer, stain, or paint, then you can use Bora-Care. This is a permanent treatment, but you do need to finish the wood with something, like a sealer or paint, about 48 hours after the product is applied. If the wood has already been treated with a sealer, stain, or paint, then you need to apply a pesticide to all the wooden surfaces every 60 days. To do this, just get a pump-up garden sprayer and purchase some Bifen IT. Mix the Bifen IT in the garden sprayer at a ratio of one ounce of product to one gallon of water. Then simply spray all the wood surfaces every 60 days. If you have areas that are too high up to spray with a pump-up garden sprayer, then you can use a hose end sprayer to reach places that are very high up. Just watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. For this application you will need to use Bifen XTS instead of Bifen IT. That is because the Bifen XTS has a much thinner viscosity than the Bifen IT, which will allow it to be picked up by the siphon tube in the sprayer. An easier way to put that would be to say that the Bifen IT will not work in the sprayer, so you must use the Bifen XTS. Just mix the Bifen XTS as I show you in my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. The sprayer that I recommend in the video has a stream setting that will allow it to reach as high as 25 feet, depending upon water pressure. I will give you links for the fipronil foam and the Bifen IT. If you need to go with the hose end sprayer, all the items you need are listed in the description of the video. I will give you a link to that video as well. These products are very safe to use, but I always recommend wearing rubber gloves, eye protection, and a respirator. I have been hit many times with the overspray from this stuff and I'm still here to talk about it, so it is not all that hazardous. Still, it is not a good idea to inhale any sort of chemical whatsoever and it is also not a good idea to get it in your eyes. The truth is that these materials are no more harmful than common laundry detergent, but I don't think you would want to mix up some laundry detergent, spray it in the air and then get it in your eyes and inhale it. You probably wouldn't want to get it all over your hands for an extended period of time either. I always recommend taking a shower when you're finished as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Fipronil foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html Bifen IT: www.domyown.com/bifen-it-p-226.html?sub_id=11662 Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html

@alexmyers5107

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Wow thanks!! You are seriously the nicest Guy (no pun intended) on KZread.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@alexmyers5107 Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Friend, would you make a video about rats in CA. My neighbor has outdoor animals including chickens. The food outside is a problem. my other neighbor has unkept greenery up to the height of his tall fence. There is a school with dumpsters across from me. What works? Please make a video.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I think what I would need to do is create a video but how to get neighbors to behave themselves and do the right thing. It sounds like your neighbors have created perfect conditions to support a rat infestation. Since there probably isn't much that you can do to correct their behavior, the only thing left is to make your property as uninviting as possible for rats. If you have pets, do not feed them outside and do not leave food or water bowls outside. If you have any bird feeders, then it's a good idea to remove them. While the rats may not make their way up to the bird feeders, the birds can be quite messy and some of that bird feed may find its way to the ground, where the rats may eat it. Make sure that all your trash cans are covered, and they have no holes in them. In other words, make sure there are no food or water sources that they can get into. If rats are getting into your home, then walk around the outside of your house and seal any openings that you find. You can use a commonly available caulk for small holes and Stuff It for larger openings. I will give you a link where you can buy Stuff It. If you have any trees or large plants that are touching the house, then trim them back and make sure that you have no trees that are overhanging the house. Now that you've discouraged them from coming into the house, it's time to eliminate the population outside. To do this, you need to use a bait and bait stations. I will provide you with links to these products. For the best results, place the bait stations directly against the foundation of the house and space them about every 15 to 20 feet apart, where you are seeing the activity. You need to check the bait stations every day and replenish the bait as needed, until you are no longer seeing the bait being eaten. If you have rats that are inside the house, then the approach is pretty similar to outside the house. You want to start by removing all the food sources. Take your trash out every day, before you go to bed, so that there is no trash left for them to get into during the night. Also, make sure that you don't leave any dishes lying around either. Pet food and water dishes should not be left out overnight. I do not recommend that you use a poison inside the house, because you don't want dead rats smelling up the house. Therefore, I recommend using traps. I think that snap traps work the best, and they're very affordable. However, if you wish to be kind to the rats, then you can also use traps that will catch the rats alive and you can release them someplace outside. You can find a good selection of these on Amazon. Just like for mice, you want to place the snap traps next to the walls, with the bait facing the wall. If you're using the traps that catch them alive, then you want the opening to the trap to be near the wall. The traps I am recommending can be reused. Always wear rubber gloves when handling traps because the rats may avoid a trap that has a human smell on it. After you catch a rat, you can dispose of it in the trash and then rinse off the trap with a garden hose for reuse. Do not over clean the traps because you want to leave a little of the rat smell on the trap. That will make the other rats more likely to approach the trap. Be sure to check the traps at least daily or more often because dead rats in the trap will cause other rats to avoid the trap. I do not recommend feeding rats and mice to the cats because they may have a disease or parasites that can be passed along. Place the traps at 10-foot intervals along the wall and focus on areas where you think there's activity. Since you will be reusing the traps, I recommend that you use peanut butter as a bait because it is easily cleaned off when you wash the traps. If you find that the rats are licking off the peanut butter without setting off the trap, then you can try a little bit of marshmallow. It is much harder to clean it off the traps, but it is practically impossible for the rats to get it off without setting off the traps. If you have children, I'm kind of guessing that you would prefer that they not get their fingers stuck in a trap. I'm also guessing that you would prefer that the traps not snap down on the noses of pets either. To avoid this problem, you can place the traps inside of a bait station. These stations lock so that the kids and pets cannot get into them. They also make the traps more effective because rats like confined spaces. Just use one trap for each bait station. I hope that helps. Stuff It: www.domyown.com/stuffit-copper-mesh-p-1463.html?sub_id=229 Rat bait: www.domyown.com/contrac-allweather-blox-rodenticide-p-80.html?sub_id=571 Bait stations: www.domyown.com/protecta-rat-bait-station-p-1292.html?sub_id=199 Snap traps: www.domyown.com/trapper-trex-rat-trap-p-95.html

Hi guy Liked your mouse one but can't find the rat one you mentioned. Can you send me the link?or direct me to it. I have lots of chicken coops and no dog. Thankyou for sharing 😊

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I'm sorry, but I have not been able to get that rat video produced yet. I have quite a long list or videos that need to be made and that is one of them. It may still take some time before I can get to it, so let me just give you some written instructions how to eliminate a rat problem. Chicken coops are a big problem with rats. You need to make sure that there is no way for the rats to get into the coops and there is no food or water left outside. Next, walk around the outside of your house and seal any openings that you find. You can use a commonly available caulk for small holes and Stuff It for larger openings. I will give you a link where you can buy Stuff It. If you have any trees or large plants that are touching the house, then trim them back and make sure that you have no trees that are overhanging the house. Now that you've discouraged them from coming into the house, it's time to eliminate the population outside. To do this, you need to use a bait and bait stations. I will provide you with links to these products. For the best results, place the bait stations directly against the foundation of the house and space them about every 15 to 20 feet apart, where you are seeing the activity. You need to check the bait stations every day and replenish the bait as needed, until you are no longer seeing the bait being eaten. You should also place them around the chicken coops as well. If you have rats that are inside the house, then the approach is pretty similar to outside the house. You want to start by removing all the food sources. Take your trash out every day, before you go to bed, so that there is no trash left for them to get into during the night. Also, make sure that you don't leave any dishes lying around either. I do not recommend that you use a poison inside the house, because you don't want dead rats smelling up the house. Therefore, I recommend using traps. I think that snap traps work the best, and they're very affordable. However, if you wish to be kind to the rats, then you can also use traps that will catch the rats alive, and you can release them someplace outside. You can find a good selection of these on Amazon. Just like for mice, you want to place the snap traps next to the walls, with the bait facing the wall. If you're using the traps that catch them alive, then you want the opening to the trap to be near the wall. I hope that helps. Be well Julie. Stuff It: Stuf-Fit Copper Mesh | Copper Mesh Exclusion Tool | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com) Rat bait: Eratication Rodent Bait | Indoor and Outdoor Rat & Mouse Control | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com) Bait stations: Solutions Rodent Bait Station | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com)

@juliewilliams489

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you. There not in the house thankfully only outside. I've used steel wool in the past for the house. But getting less agile. I liked your suggestion about the baker rod In the mouse one. I have uneven mud bricks that the skirting dosnt seal up to. There chewing to make the gaps bigger. I might try running that around under the floor at the external walls before sealing the gaps to the wall in side. Last year I had a python in the roof that was doing a good job of controlling anything scurrying around up there. But that only worked until hibernation. Before the fires I had a goanna that partroled the coops at night it was great. But she gone. Unfortunately a young one has taken to my chickens rather than the vermin. I used to store everything in plastic bags under the house to keep the dust off. But now that there degradable with cellulose the mice just use them for nesting material. All sorts of vermin love them. I trap the mice in side because I have a rare marsupial that looks like a mouse that I release elsewhere on the property. I prefer to trap than piosen because of the wildlife. But rats are so smart. Traps only work once and then they don't use them or they work out how to get out. I have to literally check regularly during a day without visably disturbing the trap and dispose of them fast. Before they tell ther buddies not to use it. And even then it only works that day if theve been getting food from ther for ages. The chooks have grandfather feeders that I've had to weight down at night because the rats can get in them. But I didn't know about the water 😲. Thats going to take some thought 🤔. Thankyou As for the chicken runs ther to big Im fighting a losing battle on that front. I try not to feed or store food in there coops. The rats have even chewed through wheelie bins to get to the food bags. Iv bought some tin bins but need something bigger for 100-200 chickens. Small food sylios are plastic 🤦‍♀️. I'm looking in to building a small shed on mushroom shaped suports in hope that will keep food safe. Over winter I just let the chooks all free-range together and fed them in one open space in the mornings. I thought I got the last of the rats with one last trapping and using bicarb soda at night in the chookfood they were eating but unfortunately come spring they have returned. I'm suspecting they stored food over witer. It's incredible what they can move. I've found eggs stored in the insulation in the wall of my cabin I wasn't regularly using. ( a bord had become loose) I'm slowly building more secure coops after the fires. But was planing on the teetree for summer shade on the south sides. I will have to trim this back from over hanging the roof. Other coops I've started are in the forest, the trees are 20-30m tall. I assume that would be to high for them to jump/drop from. But then again 🤔 Thankyou for your suggestions.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@juliewilliams489 If you want your traps to work better, try baiting them with chicken feed. The rats like the chicken feed and that is why they are going there, so give them what they want. Often times, if the rats are eating the chicken feed, a lot of them do not want anything else, so they will not be attracted to things like cheese or marshmallows. I hope that helps. Be well Julie.

Can you give advice on how to get rid of silverfish

@GuysPestSolutions

6 ай бұрын

The first thing you need to know about silverfish is that they get into your house from the outside. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is to treat the outside of your home. This is the same treatment as you are doing for the carpenter ants with the Bifen XTS. It works for silverfish too. Please watch my video on how to treat the exterior of your home. The next thing you need to do is treat the inside of your home. Purchase Niban FG Fine Granular Bait. I will give you a link for the product. You can apply this product in cracks and crevices in areas that are not accessible by people or pets, where you are seeing the silverfish activity. One of the nice features about this product is that it comes with an applicator tip, so that you could apply it without using a duster. Treat under baseboards, appliances, and where plumbing penetrates the wall, like under the sinks, and where the toilet supply pipe goes into the wall. You can also apply the product in basements, attics, and crawl spaces. In more open areas, you can use Dekko Silverfish Packs. You can place these on kitchen shelves, under sinks, inside drawers, on bookshelves, in pantries, in attics, or any other place you are seeing activity that is out of reach of children and pets. You want to place these about every 12 inches apart on shelves, and place about three or four of them under sinks and under appliances. Finally, it's a good idea to seal up any cracks and crevices on the outside and the inside of the building. Not only will this help to stop silverfish, but other invading pests as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat the outside of your home: kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html Niban FG Fine Granular Bait: www.domyown.com/niban-fine-granular-bait-lb-p-49.html?pdpv=2 Dekko silverfish packs: www.domyown.com/dekko-silverfish-packs-p-204.html?pdpv=2

I have termites in my travel trailer, not sure what to do. Suggestions please

@GuysPestSolutions

5 ай бұрын

I would be happy to assist you with that. Before I can help you though, I need to know where you live. Location matters a lot with termites. Please get back to me and let me know. Be well my friend.

@thehideout1

5 ай бұрын

The trailer is in Northern New Mexico. 5600’

@thehideout1

5 ай бұрын

And thank you!

@GuysPestSolutions

5 ай бұрын

​@@thehideout1 Okay. You live in an area where Formosan termites could be a problem, but probably not. You are just inside an area that may or may not be cold enough to prevent Formosan termites, so I cannot be sure. The reason this is important is because Formosan termites are the only species of subterranean termites that can colonize in a building or camper. So, the first thing you should do is move the camper to a location that is at least one mile away from where it is now. Assuming that these are NOT Formosan termites, then they cannot colonize in the camper. The colony is in the ground, so if you move the camper, then the termites will have no place to go. So, they should exit the camper, because they need moisture to survive and that means they need to get into the ground again. Now, this part is very important. Make sure that you treat all the ground under and around the new location of the camper with a residual pesticide. This way the termites will encounter the pesticide and die when they try to get into the ground. I recommend buying Bifen IT. Mix it 1 ounce to one gallon of water in a pump up tank sprayer and spray the ground really well where the camper is going to be parked. You should also spray around all sides of the wheels and any other place where the camper is in contact with the ground. In other words, leave them no escape but to contact the pesticide on their way out. You should also look for mud tubes before you move the camper. Break open the mud tubes and try to find a termite with a red head. If you can find one, then put it in a jar and let me know. Do not try to kill it. It will die quickly on its own and then we can identify it. Hopefully, these are not Formosan termites. If they are, then I will explain how to deal with them. If this camper was parked in your yard, then you have a termite problem on your property and you need to treat it. Please let me know if this is the case. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@thehideout1

5 ай бұрын

Yes, it’s parked at the family farm. I don’t have a way to move it until spring. I haven’t seen any tubes at all. It looks like spiderwebs with dandruff. ( best analogy I could think of) I’ll keep checking back to see if this made any sense to you. Thanks again.

Hi Guy, are you doing okay? I seem to recall you live in Florida.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You are correct. I do live in Florida, but I am not on the coast, so we got hit with a category one hurricane, but no storm surge. It mostly hit at night and the power was on and off all night. Fortunately, we had power in the morning. There were sustained winds of around 60 miles an hour with gusts up to around 100 miles an hour. We received about 14 inches of rain. A lot of trees came down in the area, but we don't have any trees on our property, so that was not an issue for us. I have a screened in pool and some of that screening was blown out from the storm. It also took down my wooden fence in a couple of places. There were tree limbs and debris around the property, but that was about the extent of it. It took me about a day to clean up the mess and four days to repair the fence. In fact, I just finished doing that yesterday. I still need to hire somebody to replace the screens. All totaled, I probably had only about $600 worth of damage. So, I feel like I got away pretty easily. Thank you so much for checking on me. That was so thoughtful of you. Be well Debra.

@debrafoley1668

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions So good to hear you're okay and you didn't have a massive amount of damage.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

​@@debrafoley1668 You are a truly wonderful person Debra. Be well.

Guy, any advice for raccoon in the attic?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

That raccoon had to get in from some sort of opening into the attic. So, you need to find that opening and seal it up. Also, if you have any trees next to the house, you should trim them back. As for the raccoon, you can purchase a trap that will catch it alive, and you can release it back outside or give it to animal control. I will give you a link for the trap. You can get cheaper ones than the one I recommend, but Havahart is the best and it's only about $20 more than the cheaper ones. Some of the cheaper ones can be more difficult to set and may not work as well. Racoons can be nasty, so don't try to tangle with this thing. Set the trap and get out of the attic. Be well my friend. www.amazon.com/Havahart-1-Door-Raccoons-Groundhogs-Opossums/dp/B00004RAMT/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=racoon%2Btrap&qid=1666691755&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk2IiwicXNhIjoiMy44MSIsInFzcCI6IjMuNjMifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.006c50ae-5d4c-4777-9bc0-4513d670b6bc&th=1

have swarmer s in house what shall i do, THANKS

@GuysPestSolutions

2 ай бұрын

How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html

should my friend sell her condo because the HOA refuses to tent the building because of dry wood termite infestation?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

The short answer is "YES." She should sell even if the HOA agrees to fumigate. The fact of the matter is that this is a no-win situation. If the entire structure is not fumigated, it is unlikely that spot treating is going to eliminate all galleries in your friend's unit and, even if your friend is successful at eliminating all the galleries, the people next door are still going to have drywood termites and they are eating away at structural members that may render your friend's unit unsafe to occupy. Even if everyone agrees to fumigate, then everyone still needs to do the preventive treatment every two or three months. If the HOA or the owners fail to do that consistently, then you are going to get reinfested again. Further, this is only one of the many reasons why you should never buy a townhome or condominium. They seem like a good deal going in, but they will cost a lot of money in the long run, and you are always subject to things like dry wood termites and, maybe even worse, German cockroaches. I think it is always a smarter move to spend the extra money and buy a single-family home. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@hideoussails1783

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you, that's just what I was thinking. I also assume if the neighbors unit is condemned the whole building would be also

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@hideoussails1783 That could very well be the case. Drywood termites are slow eaters, so this can take a number of years, but the outcome is inevitable, if left untreated. Be well my friend.

@hideoussails1783

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions It's an old condo (1950's or early 60s) and has probably been going on for years I would guess, You're right, avoid condos 🙂👍

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@hideoussails1783 That is old for sure. There is no telling when the infestation started, but I would not be surprised if there is already a lot of damage.

I woke up with dead black ants on my pillow today. I dumped them in the sink and there was no saw dust. Just whole ants and parts with quite a few legs. I had washed and made my bed last night and did kill 3 what I thought was army ants that showed up on my bed as I made it. This has never happed before but over the years we have seen one or two in the kitchen and bathroom but not regularly.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Not all ants get treated the same way. Please measure one of the ants to see how long it is. If they are quite large, like almost 1/2 inch long, then they are carpenter ants. If they are very small, then they are an easier species to treat. Also, please tell me where you live, so I can rule out some species. I also need to know if you live in a slab home or if you have a foundation or piers. Please tell me if this is a single-family home, condo, townhome, or apartment. Armed with this information, I can give you the solution to your problem. I look forward to hearing from you. Be well my friend.

@mikeholtorf3456

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions i will measure the next one a catch. I live in a cedar wood sided double wide trailer on piers with metal roofing as skirting due to raccoons breaking in and popping out of my registers. I'm in SW Illinois near ST Louis Mo. We were in Ft Myers when Covid hit and stayed there until a few weeks ago.

@mikeholtorf3456

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions largest of 4 was nearly a half inch. For some reason I found 3 dead in my porch today. I have not seen any dead or alive there. I set up some bate Intice brand by Rockwell labs granular bait with 5% Orthoboric Acid and Torro for the sweet toothed ones.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@mikeholtorf3456 Based on the size and color, I believe what you are looking at are carpenter ants. If they are getting into bed with you, it is possible that they are falling out from the ceiling somewhere. That would mean that you have an infestation in your roof structure that can cause structural failure. Therefore, who need to start treating these things right away. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below for you. I know that this treatment is going to sound like a real hassle to do, but you cannot skip any of the steps in the video. Everything in the video is done for a reason. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat carpenter ants: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hpltpLd8kay3irw.html

@mikeholtorf3456

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions almost every room in my double wide is vaulted. The exception are two bedrooms and back door hallway. Its not really addressed but do I drill the ceiling between every rafter and dust it then do the same with every interior and exterior wall? The bedrooms have light fixtures in the center of the room I can us3 to dust or should I make multiple holes in the flat ceilings.

I have ROACHES TWO KIND OF THEM PLEASE HELP ME

@GuysPestSolutions

11 күн бұрын

Do you know the species? If not, please have a look at my video on how to identify cockroach species. Different species get treated differently, so it is important to identify the species you are dealing with. I hope that helps. Be well Connie. Video on how to identify cockroach species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eIJrrNt7frbVn7w.html

Hi guy, I have problems with bats coming into my house

@GuysPestSolutions

10 ай бұрын

You need to find where they are getting in. I suggest buying a crittercam from Amazon. Set it up on a tripod and face it toward the house where you think they may be entering. Do this at night and in the morning you will see if there is any activity. Set the camera on the highest sensitivity. You will get a lot of useless video, but you may also get the bats. Do this on each side of the house until you find the entry point. You could also stand outside in the evening before it gets dark and just watch. Next, find where they are nesting and use a bat repellent to get them out of there. Bat Magic is pretty good. I will give you the link for it. Now you can seal up the openings where they are getting in. Stuf-Fit works great and you can get it on Amazon. It is best to seal the opening after dark because bats that were not repelled by the Bat Magic will probably leave to go hunt. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bat Magic: www.domyown.com/bonide-bat-magic-p-3591.html Suf-Fit: www.amazon.com/Stuf-Fit-Copper-Mesh-Birds-Control/dp/B0001IMLTY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=stuffit&qid=1692574364&sr=8-1 Crittercam: www.amazon.com/GardePro-Bluetooth-Activated-Waterproof-Wildlife/dp/B08VRDFSNL/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1MD4Q8BY5MP6D&keywords=critter+camera+with+night+vision+motion+activated&qid=1692574405&sprefix=critter+cam%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-6

@gpo546

10 ай бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you so much

@GuysPestSolutions

10 ай бұрын

@@gpo546 You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Hi there guy I live in a one bedroom apartment 2 weeks ago I discovered on my indoor grill crockpot air fryer oven micro refrigerator bugs from dishwasher & bathroom sink In bedroom at night can see white larvae hopping on carpet not sure if same larvae but In medicine cabinet bottom shelf rusty they left residue on my waterpik got into my denture cleanser my denture cream ouch when Squeezed some 4 my dentures top part what is stinging got into my body wash Yikes they sent bug man over but I guess girls at office didn’t say he may have infestation all he did was spray and could barely smell it when got home I tried explaining my sister inside shelves see they orange they larvae on my plastic sealed containers she that’s not larvae that just caked in food yeah right ha ha why my phone case for iPhone chewed up smeared with larvae that tough to get off Help would be greatly appreciated Guy I sure hope moth larvae can wreck Someone’s immune system was both stem and in my 2 liter bottle of soda seen organisms moving around this all freaking me out cause they also near baseboards too not many are educated on Larvae but they can do damage even ladies at office tell sis where’s the bugs duh come to apartment and see 4 yourself you’d have be very clever to find the culprit moth maybe you know a good diy solution to get rid all this mess

@GuysPestSolutions

7 күн бұрын

That's a tough one. Larvae can be from different species. Usually though you also see adults. Think about it for a minute. Where did the larvae come from? You can't get offspring unless you have a parent. So, are you seeing any moths, flies, beetles, or that sort of thing? If you are, then please tell me what you are seeing. As a general rule, the first place to start is to get everything squeaky clean. Make sure the apartment is spotless. Larvae need to eat, so by cleaning really well, you will remove the food supply. This is especially important to do where you are seeing the larvae. The little guys need food to stay alive, so make sure that they do not have any. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Dear Sir, in hot & very humid Singapore, my home is continuously invaded by 3 or 4 types of tiny insects which are likely coming from a secretive unfriendly neighbour's home, so there's no access to treat the source >> Booklice (length 1mm or less, brown-color, soft-body, walk only, cannot jump), another type of Booklice which have wings but don't jump, Mold Mites ("Tyrophagus putrescentiae"), Springtails. Only the springtails are less troublesome as they seem mostly hiding inside toilets & not really spreading, but the 2 types of Booklice & Mold Mites appear randomly anywhere, even standing on very clean items. How to remove them? I have done all types of usual methods of throwing things, disinfecting everywhere, pest company's fumigation & residual spray, running dehumidifier machine since 3 months ago, but they are still around since the first Booklice appeared in Dec2020. I just bought pure cinnamon essential oil now, hoping to repel them by dripping this oil on cotton balls spread out inside all cupboards & let some evaporate all over the home. I have long-term body pain, cannot do many physical work to control pests (eg. I know some people use a vacuum cleaner to vacuum every item, everywhere at home, but I cannot do even a little bit of this work now). Please give your kindest expert advice. Thank You Very Much, Sir!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I am so sorry that you are having this problem. Since you have three different pests, let's address them one at a time. I am sorry that this is so long, but there is a lot to cover here. Mold mites, as the name implies, feed off mold. However, they also eat foods that are high in protein and fats. So, make sure that you throw away any food that may be affected by mold mites, and then store all food in sealed containers. Since mold mites mainly feed on mold, it's important to eliminate all the mold. This is not easy to do because it doesn't take much mold to support their existence. Therefore, you need to be very thorough when removing mold. It sounds like you have a physical condition that will make this difficult, so you may need to ask somebody to assist you with it. A good way to kill mold is to scrub it with a solution of vinegar and water. Mix one part vinegar to 4 parts of water. This will kill off the mold and leave the mites nothing to feed on. The key though is that you must be thorough. If any mold is allowed to survive, then so will the mites. These things breed at a phenomenal rate, so it doesn't take long to be overwhelmed by them. Mites can live from 9 to 30 days and one female can lay up to 800 eggs in that period of time. That is why they can get out of control very quickly. It sounds like you already have a dehumidifier, so make sure that you keep the humidity below 50%. Ideally, you want it around 30%. The lower the humidity level, the less likely that you will run into additional mold problems. You need to stay vigilant, and make sure that no mold crops up anywhere. Springtails also need moisture to survive and they too eat mold, so lowering the humidity and removing the mold will help with them as well. As you have found out, you mostly find these guys in bathrooms. The good news is that they do not travel very far from their nests, and that is why you don't see them anywhere but the bathroom. Unfortunately, you do need to use a pesticide to treat them, but I do not know what pesticides are available in Singapore. The way I treat them is to use a deltamethrin dust. The one I like to use is called D-Fense dust. You simply fill the duster halfway and then dust pipe penetrations, under base boards, and any other cracks and crevices were you are seeing these guys. The deltamethrin dust is waterproof and it lasts about eight months. So, see if there is any place where you can obtain this product. Booklice, as the name implies, like to hang out on books and paper. You can also find them in your pantry, in containers like boxes and bags, that you use to store food. Just like mold mites, these guys like to feed on mold. The only thing is that they like to feed where there is paper. That does not mean though that they cannot be hanging out on shelves and areas of the wall that may have mold present. Any small items, such as books, that do not contain metal, can be treated in a microwave oven. Just place the item in a sealed plastic bag and place it in a microwave oven, with half a cup of water. The water is important because microwaves heat water. If you run the microwave without water in it, then damage may occur to the microwave. So, the water is in there to protect the microwave. Since microwaves heat water, it will kill any booklice or their eggs, because they contain water as well. They do not contain enough water to protect the microwave, but they do contain enough so that the microwave will literally boil them to death. Simply place the sealed bag and the half cup of water in the microwave. Then use the highest setting available and microwave them for about 3 minutes. You know they will be dead if the water in the cup is boiling. Any other items that cannot be treated in this way should be thrown out if at all possible. This includes food items. If you have something that cannot be thrown away and it cannot be microwaved, then place it in the freezer for about four days. This should kill the booklice, and then you can simply use a vacuum to remove the booklice and the eggs. Again, I do not know what pesticides are available in Singapore, but you are going to need to obtain a pesticide that has a pyrethroid as the active ingredient. Oftentimes you will find this ingredient in aerosol products that are used to kill flying insects. There are several different names for the pyrethroid that may be in the product. It could be called permethrin, resmethrin, and other names as well. Generally, if the active ingredient ends with the letters "thrin," Then that should do the job. Naturally, a professional pyrethroid product that features a crack and crevice tube, would be best. This would allow you to treat directly into cracks and crevices. However, if you cannot obtain that type of product, then just buy an aerosol spray used for flying insects. You want to try and get the spray into all cracks and crevices in your pantry, kitchen cabinets, and any other cracks or crevices where you are seeing activity. You also want to apply it on the surfaces of these areas as well and let it sit for about three or four hours. This should kill any existing booklice that are in those locations. Unfortunately, these are tough problems to treat, and that is why the professionals failed. To get rid of these pests, you need to stay on top of it all the time. It is vital that the humidity level in all rooms be between 30 to 50%. Make sure that all food is stored in sealed containers, and store all books and paper items in sealed containers as well. If you see a problem start to crop up, then you must be treat it immediately. Again, I'm so sorry that you're having these problems. I hope these suggestions prove to be helpful to you. Be well Hwee.

@hweehoon9696

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Dear Sir, thank you very much for your very kind detailed advices! Before my body pain worsened, I had already done some of these (throw many things away, regardless infested or not / disinfection to remove mold / etc.) but these pests still sometimes appear randomly on my things (and these things are not moldy, not something they will feed on). Which is why I suspect they are often coming from neighbour's home, & there's no end to this. Singapore's weather is extremely humid whole year, humidity often from near 70% to near 100%, so there is no way to really stop micro-mold from growing, and it will cost a bomb if I pay someone to disinfect everywhere/everything regularly. And both these tiny pests & micro-mold are not really visible. Even my dehumidifier machine cannot get humidity of 55% to 60% continuously for the whole home. Question: Is there any gas to fumigate these pests, at least Booklice & Mold Mites (Springtails are a smaller problem)? Or is there any non-toxic & water-less substance I can spray everywhere on everything (all things, furniture, walls, ceiling, floor) with no need to clean/wipe it off later? I need water-less, because weather is so humid that things getting damp means mold will grow. I'm very sorry for asking such tough question, but the situation is very difficult. Or should I just buy 1 more dehumidifier machine to make the whole home's humidity not higher than 50%, & just use this method to dry up any mold growing, & I heard theoretically Booklice should also die from dessication of their body? I deeply appreciate your kindest efforts to help & your well wishes! I wish you are well too!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@hweehoon9696 I really feel so bad for you. Your situation is literally heart breaking. I spent most of the night trying to think about how to help you, but you have a very difficult situation. There are any number of pesticides that will kill these things, but they are all water based, and you wouldn't want to cover everything with a pesticide anyway. So, the only thing I can think of this to get another dehumidifier. That high humidity is most likely causing the problem. Some of these things breed at a phenomenal rate, and even though it doesn't look like there's any mold on anything, it may be so tiny that you can't see it. Mold can actually be microscopic. It doesn't take much to feed these guys. They can live up to 31 days without food, so even after you get rid of the food source, they will still hang out for some time. The only effective way to deal with them is to reduce the humidity. Mold cannot grow in an environment with a humidity level below 50%. The lower the humidity the better. So, you should target a humidity level of 40%. It may take two or three dehumidifiers to get it done. You may need one in every room. I know that this is probably not cheap to do, but I honestly cannot think of anything else. I am also very sad that you are in so much pain. This must really be a horrible situation for you. I wish there was more that I could do for you. I'm so sorry.

@hweehoon9696

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Dear Sir, Ok I will focus on dehumidifying. I didn't buy more machines yet, mainly because even maintaining each machine gives me pain (carrying water to pour away every 5 hours, cleaning its filter & sensor & body), but there's no other option with less physical work. I'm also trying out the cinnamon essential oil I bought few days ago, as a repellent because I found some lab studies found it repelled Booklice & Mold Mites. I realise it is a heavy oil which doesn't seem to be able to diffuse strongly, so I can't get the concentrated effect which the lab studies had done, but I will just try because I already bought this oil. Thank you very much for your very kind advices & thoughts! I deeply appreciate you!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@hweehoon9696 I am always happy to help. I know this is none of my business, so no need to share if you don't want to, but I feel like I know you by now. I am just curious why you are in so much pain. It sounds awful.