I want to say Guy has so generously and patiently answered all my numerous questions in email and on the comments section, and I really appreciate it so much. In a world, where not many can be trusted, it’s so nice to see a kind man selflessly give back to our community. Thanks to you I learned so much about termites and feel empowered to know how to take care of them!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much Wanning. You didn't need to do that. It is always my honor to serve you in anyway I can. It is greatly appreciated though. Thank you so much for those kind words as well. Very much appreciated.

Excellent advice, Guy. Thank you!

@GuysPestSolutions

22 күн бұрын

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Thank you for the excellent information

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. Be well Teresa.

Great advice, thank you!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Excellent info about not falling prey to sales techniques. I need a new roof and will remember these 😃

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much David. Good luck with that new roof.

Thank you for all the videos!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

Another great video!!!!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. That is very kind of you to say. Be well my friend.

Guy, thank you for these videos. I had house damage (front and back of house) from an infestation killed by (a large national company) in October 2006 with a non-repellent barrier (I think it was Termidor (Fipronil) and they trenched the whole house perimeter, even on top of the Imidacloprid (Premise) trench treatment that I personally (DIY) had already done partially around the house. So I now have a contract (termite bond) with them on my house that if termites come back then they will retreat 20 feet (10 feet in each direction from the spot of infestation) and repair any structural damage. The contract stays in effect as long as I let them do an annual inspection and pay for that inspection. The problem is that the inspection started off about $200 per year in 2007 and went up in price about $12 to $20 every year and is now up to $380 last September (2022). I know the Fipronil is good and long lasting but it must surely be inert by now after 16 years. Their inspection is ridiculous and always amounts to them walking around my house and commenting on rotted places on my window sills, wasp nests, anything except getting down at the ground/brick interface (brick ledge) and actually look for termites and/or mud tubes. I have even met them at my house and stood over them telling them them their inspection "sucks" in so many words. I made one guy pull the grass away with a rake and he quit doing that after about 30 seconds and just did the usual walk by -too much work for him. They will be calling me in August for another "inspection" and it wlll no doubt be about $400 or more this year. I am feeling like I'd be better off at this point to use that $400 and hire someone to do a new trench job with fipronil. I just hate to break that contract, even though in the past this company has been notorious for not honoring contracts based on news reports and internet searches on those things. Everyone has told me you have to have a termite bond on your house or you can't sell it. In fairness, after the first few years of inspections, I stopped letting them do the inside because our house is full and hard to do a good job around the inside anyway. They said it doesn't matter and all they need to do is inspect the outside but I don't have that in writing, just what the national office agent told me on the phone. What should I think about doing? Thanks.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I'm sorry, but when I hear a story like this, it really makes me angry. This pest control company has been taking advantage of you for years. First of all, you do not need a termite bond to sell your house. Some banks, the FHA, and the VA, may require a termite inspection prior to closing, and the treatment of any existing termite infestation, but that's about it. Also, the trenching that they did in 2006 is no longer doing anything. Essentially, you have been paying them big money for just walking around your house every year. Virtually any pest control company you called would have done a free termite inspection for you. So, you do not need to pay a company to do an inspection. All you were really paying them for was basically a prepayment in case you had termites. Even then, they were not planning to trench your entire house. Unfortunately, you cannot undo what has already been done, but I certainly would not renew my contract with these people. When people ask me about termite bonds and termite warranties, my answer is always the same. Those things are all a waste of money. In all likelihood, you can probably just use termite granules every year. It costs about $50, takes less than an hour to do, and it works about 95% of the time. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should just monitor for termites. Please make sure that you buy the correct granules. There are two kinds of granules now and one of them does not work. They are both manufactured by Bayer, but they really screwed up on one of these products. Make sure that you get the granules that use imidacloprid as the active ingredient. The correct granules are no longer available at a lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores. However, they are still available on Amazon and I will give you a link to them. Since you do not have an active infestation, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. These things are super cool. They are very fast to make out of water bottles and feature an orange dot on the top. When the dot disappears, you have termites. Now, these do malfunction now and then and the dot will disappear because the thing got ran over by a riding mower or something like that. So, always pull it out of the ground if the dot disappears to make sure that you have termites. If you do, then just put the station back in the ground. If the station just malfunctioned, then replace it with a fresh one. Just keep a few on hand. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&=&sprefix=termit Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html Video on how to make monitoring stations: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ma2ZlJmaiKu4o7w.html Video on how to apply termite granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html

Very lovely and educational video sir. I m a pest technician as well. Agree with your narrative all the way. Specially I would encourage people stay away from door knockers they will try to lock you in 1-2 year contract without explaining. It’s important people read fine print.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for that comment. It is always good to hear from a fellow pest controller. You are spot on correct about those door knockers. I get them all the time here and it's really funny when they speak with me. Not only are they trying to rip me off, but they actually do not know what they are doing. It takes me less than a minute to figure out that they really have no field experience whatsoever. It appears that these are pretty much people that attend a little bit of training and then get sent out to make house calls. I still talk to them though and, when they find out who they are actually speaking with, they end up spending a lot of time talking to me to learn about pest control. Most of the time, by the end of the conversation, they end up admitting that they really don't know what they're doing. They are just out selling contracts to unsuspecting customers. The really sad part though is how many people fall for it. Be well my friend.

Thanks!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

Thanks so much. I've been trying to decide on a company to treat my basement for powder post beetles. I'll follow your suggestions but so far there don't seem to be many exterminators in my area. I've talked with Orkin and Terminex. I'm in northeast Indiana.

@GuysPestSolutions

8 ай бұрын

Just a word of caution. I get a lot of complaints about Orkin. The biggest one is that they try to oversell you on services that you don't really need. In other words, they pad the job. I also receive complaints about Terminix. The biggest one with them is that they send inspectors that are not properly trained and don't do a good job figuring out what is going on. Now, I don't deal with either of these companies, so I have no first hand experience with them. I am just sharing the complaints that I have received. The company that I don't get complaints about is Truly Nolen. You may also want to get estimates from companies that are not national. They send out actual pest controllers and not sales people. This is also something that you can treat yourself. I'm guessing that this is an older home, perhaps with crawlspace. I hate going under a crawlspace, but if you are okay with that, then you can usually do this yourself. I can tell you how to do it if you are interested in that option. If you have no choice but to use Orkin or Terminix, then I would go with Terminix. I hope that helps. Be well Nancy.

Thank you for taking the time to help educate on termites and other pests. We are in Tampa, Florida and just found termite frass in our daughters' bedroom. The baseboards also appear to be very damaged by drywood termites. We are not from here (military family) so not prepared to deal with tenting. Is there anyone you would recommend in Tampa, Florida? Thank you again for all you do! With gratitude, Andrea

@GuysPestSolutions

3 ай бұрын

I am so sorry that you are having this problem. The first thing you need to do is to make sure that these are actually drywood termites and not subterranean termites. You do have drywood termites in Tampa. A lot of them. However, you also have two species of subterranean termites as well. So, when you look at the frass, does it look like little pellets or does it look more like mud or sand? If it looks like little pellets, then you would be correct that these are drywood termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood. Most likely, we're talking about years, so it's a safe bet that you have these guys in many locations in your home. It sounds like you already know that the only sure way to get rid of drywood termites is to fumigate. Prices for this can vary wildly in this industry. So it is important to shop and get as many estimates as you can. The only good news about drywood termites is that they are slow eaters, so you do have time to get lots of estimates. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with pest control companies in your area, so shopping is your best bet. You should also know that the gas they use to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. If you absolutely cannot afford to fumigate your house, then you can try spot treating it yourself. It is virtually impossible to find all the termite galleries, but it is way better than doing nothing. Regardless of how you treat it, you should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. If you fumigate, then you must begin the preventive treatment before the tent goes up. I hope that helps. Be well Andrea. Video on how to prevent drywood termites (You do not need to treat the yard for drywood termites. You just need to treat the outside of the house every 60 days.): kzread.info/dash/bejne/i6Ou2JWsXbTdnNo.html Video on how to spot treat drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/h2uXzZmzmLaWiNI.html

Guy, thank you so much for your videos. I have seen a few tiny flying insects in the evening inside my house around a couch light that I suspect might be termites. I am in the process of getting some companies out to inspect house. I am in a two story beach house that is on pilings. Is it possible to tent a house like that or are there other options I should explore. Thank you.

@GuysPestSolutions

11 ай бұрын

I wouldn't jump to conclusions just yet. These guys may not be termites at all. If they are termites, then how you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Keep in mind that tenting is only done for drywood termites. If these guys are termites, then they may also be subterranean, and tenting does not work for that species. So, it's important to figure out exactly what you are looking at. After you now the species, I can tell you how to treat it. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html

Thanks for the link Guy ~Steve

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

You are very welcome. I hope it works. Be well mate.

@SteveMack

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Cheers, and thanks again mate!👌👍👍

@SteveMack

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Gidday again Guy - Bet you thought I wasn't going to update you? (WRONG!) - Have been waiting on more quotes, so long story short - MOST agree on treatment (can't get the granules here in Australia, except for ordinary ants, as per other posts) and that is a barrier of drilled holes and 'Termidore' (fiprinil, made by BASF). Quoted prices, now that I have several (getting one last one next week) have varied a LOT! - AU$3100 to $8000 !! The latest one is cheapest, and she certainly seems to know what she's talking about, but was highly critical of the guy (no pun) we had spot treat the termites with the other weeks' method, of using Termidore foam (dispite the termidore brochure she left me ADVOCATING it's use!) - Tiz a black art! hahaha. ~Steve

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@SteveMack Thanks for getting back to me. I always love to hear how these things go. It would appear that things in Australia are not much different than things here in the states. I always tell people to shop because I have seen prices here vary as much as $2000 for the same exact job. Spot treating termites with a fipronil foam like Termidor is somewhat controversial. I have done it in cases where standard treatments would be difficult and expensive to do. Sometimes it works and sometimes it does not. I always tell people that it is not a sure thing, but it is probably worth a shot before going nuclear on the problem. It's the sort of thing that I would not charge anybody to do. I would regard it more as a goodwill gesture and I would make it clear that there is no guarantee of success. All termite treatments can take up to 12 weeks to be effective, so if there is still activity after that time, then I tell people that they have to go the expensive way. It's amazing how much goodwill you get by saving someone $3000 for free. So, I can certainly understand why a pest controller would frown on the practice. For spot treating to work, you really need to know what you're doing. Even then, it would certainly not be my first recommendation, unless I was encountering a situation that would require expensive accommodations. If you are looking at subterranean termites and trenching as an option, then that would certainly be the way I would go. That being said, if you already did the spot treatment, then I would wait at least 12 weeks after the treatment to see if it was effective. It is very possible that, if the guy knew what he was doing, and if you have a bit of luck, then he may have gotten the job done for you already. Spot treatments are not an automatic failure. I have done it myself and it does work. It's just not a sure thing. I think you are quite correct that the pest control industry is something of a black art. It is very easy for pest controllers to get caught up in their own paradigms about how things should be done, without really putting in the necessary thought for how any given species operates. If you fully understand how a species operates, and you understand how the tools at your disposal work, then you can oftentimes figure out alternative solutions that others have not considered. I have met very few pest controllers that have that "thinking outside the box" mentality. They are usually trained to do things a certain way and that is the only way they will ever do it. I think this is one of the reasons why the prices vary so much. The truth is, there may be several very acceptable ways to do the same job. It's just that some are much more expensive than others. There are also pest controllers that are more than happy to just charge you way more than everybody else. You have to be careful out there. Thanks again for getting back to me. It is always a pleasure to hear from you mate.

@SteveMack

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Just a quick reply for now as have to head out...Fully understood mate - I've been seeing examples of some experts thinking, JUST by getting multiple quotes, and how some seem to ridicule others! The guy that did the spot treatment, is coming back to check at the 3 week mark - I guess we'll cross that bridge when we get to it. Oneperson who quoted, when I said (as I have to all) that "we are getting several quotes" actually said very loudly "I don't know WHY people DO that!" - I mean; common sense would dictate that, for reasons you outlined, not to mention how expensive it is! - Talk soon mate, Steve

Hi guy thank you so much for your videos, I really enjoy watching them. Recently, I discovered there are some areas in my house that have subterranean termites. I had a pest control company come and check it out; they want to charge me over $2000. Since watching your videos, it makes me want to DIY. I have some questions: I have subterranean termite on my sheet rock: should I spray the filpro foam spray on the wall the same day I trenching or should I do it before trenching around the house (poison their food source first)? I have paver bricks on my backyard next to the concrete slab to the house , should I drill every 18 inches or should I pull out the bricks and trench instead? Thank you and looking forward for your response.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you are sure that these guys are subterranean, then it doesn't matter which order you treat them. I generally will do the trenching first because it will treat the most termites the fastest. Subterranean termites must return to the ground fairly often to obtain moisture to survive, so trenching alone will generally get it done. Still, it doesn't hurt to treat the drywall with FiPro. This will poison their food source and they will bring that poisoned food back to the colony and, hopefully, feed it to the queen. That will definitely ruin their afternoon. As for the paver bricks in the backyard, I would like to see a photo of it. A picture is worth a thousand words. Most of the time, you can just trench around those sorts of things, but not always. So, I really need to see it. You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Meanwhile, go ahead and start trenching the rest of the house. When you email me, please give me your KZread name. I receive a lot of termite questions on email, and it is easy to get people mixed up. The issues are often very similar. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. I just want to be sure that you have the species correct. I cannot tell you how many times pest controllers get it wrong. It's a little scary. Be well my friend.

Thanks for the video. Great advice, except for picking the lowest cost provider like your roofer. Personally, I'll pass on a cheaper price when it leads to compromised service.

@GuysPestSolutions

7 ай бұрын

I don't know. I chose the lowest bidder for my roof and they did a beautiful job. It was half the price of the highest bidder. It was the same when I installed my new HVAC system. Less expensive does not always mean lower quality. Check out the reviews and don't just go by price. Sometimes the highest bidder is the worst quality. Lower cost contractors often do not advertise, so their costs are lower. The companies you see on TV are spending a lot of money on those ads, and someone needs to pay for it. That someone is going to be you. Mom and pop companies that are family owned and operated can often do the job cheaper and better than the national companies and they pride themselves on good customer service because they don't advertise. They count on recommendations from customers. So, price is not a good measurement for quality when it comes to hiring a pest controller or a contractor. Reading the reviews is a much better yardstick. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

@Guy's Pest Solution, I wonder what is a fair price and procedure for pest control on subterranean termites in wood floor (only one horizontal section in one single room) as well as outside area it would be for a townhome in South Florida. Also what should I watch out for, beside what you mentioned in the video? Thank you so much! Also would love some extra videos on indoor subterranean termites treatment for wood floors. it will be a huge deal. Thank ou

@GuysPestSolutions

9 ай бұрын

Keep in mind that not all termites are subterranean. You also have drywood termites where you live, so make sure that you are dealing with the correct species. They get treated much differently. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species for more information. Also, there is more than one species of subterranean termites. You also have Formosan termites where you live and they often need additional treatment. All subterranean termites must be treated from the outside. With the exception of Formosan termites, we typically only treat the outside of the building. That is because these guys do not colonize in your home. Your home just happens to be their favorite restaurant. They must return to the colony fairly often to bring back food to the other termites and to obtain the moisture they need to survive. The treatment pricing will depend upon the species and the way your townhome is constructed. It will also depend upon where the attack is originating. If there are mud tubes in an adjoining home, the termites may be attacking from that location. This may require treatment of that home as well. There are ways to spot treat termites from the inside of the home, but it's a bit of a Hail Mary Pass. I recommend that you get a few estimates. The pest controllers should be able to identify the species for you. Always ask them for the specific species because they don't always tell you. If they cannot identify the species, then don't hire them. The are incompetent. Do not sign a contract for them to use a bait, like the Sentricon system. That is pretty much a rip off that can take up to two years to work. Baiting could work in some cases, but it's way cheaper to do yourself, and it is super simple to do too. That is why many companies try to sell you on it. It's easy money for them. Let me know if you cannot afford to get this done professionally and I will go over your options to do it yourself, based on the inspection reports. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html

I have a wet crawl space with active sub terranian termites in south Jersey. I’m in the middle of installing a French drain under there along with a full encapsulation and dehumidifier. I’m planning on spot treating the tubes with the foam than going to buy your red eye monitoring system to put around my yard. I was advised from pest companies not to do a termicide because I have a high water table and more importantly I have well water. And you don’t wanna pump that stuff near a well. I wanted to hear your input thank you

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Are you installing the French drain under the crawlspace or on the outside of the building? It sounds like you were doing it under the building, which is okay, but if you do it on the outside of the building, then you don't want to get too close to the house, because that will prevent you from doing termite treatments. I do not necessarily agree with the pest control companies you spoke with about not treating the exterior of the building with a termiticide. I can't help but wonder if they dug any test holes to see if they were able to do a trenching treatment. It's pretty simple really. You just dig holes in several places around the building that are 6 inches deep. If you hit water, then do not trench. If you do not see water, then there is no reason not to trench. The termiticide will bond with soil, so it will not be going anywhere. If your well is not within about 8 feet of the house, then I would not be concerned about it at all. So, if I were you, I would get a shovel I just dig a couple of test holes on each side of the building. If your house fails the hole test, then I would be happy to give you the procedure to spot treat the termites. For spot treating to be effective, you must do it correctly. Please note that the red eye stations should not be used for an existing infestation. They were designed as a preventive measure only. While they do a wonderful job preventing subterranean termites, they are not a good choice for treating an active infestation. That being said, if you spot treat for the termites, and if it is successful, then installing monitoring stations around the house would be a very good idea. As luck would have it, I am currently in the process of doing the postproduction on a video that will show you how to make your own monitoring stations out of disposable water bottles for under $0.50 each. The red eye stations cost about $15 each, so that is the savings of about $14.50 per station. If you make them yourself, which is super quick and easy to do, you can probably place them around your entire house for under $25, and you can locate them at 4-foot intervals, instead of the 8 foot intervals that you need to use with the red eye stations. That means the termites are way more likely to find them. I expect to have this video released sometime next week. If you subscribe to my channel and click on that little notification bell, then you will get notified when the video is posted. I hope that helps. Please let me know if the test holes fail, and you need guidance on how to do the spot treatment. Be well my friend.

@noahmurray4633

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you for the great advice I really appreciate it! And I am interested in hearing how to spot treat correctly thank you

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@noahmurray4633 You are very welcome. I provided the spot treatment procedure in another comment you made on a different video. Let me know if you don't get it and I will give it to you again. Be well my friend.

What’s the best IGR for mosquitoes, ticks, and spiders?? Tekko pro? Do I have to do this monthly with talstar? I am a homeowner using a typhoon backpack sprayer (a powerful battery backpack sprayer). Is it worth getting the Stihl 450 mist blower for a homeowner?? I can’t find a cheaper alternative for mosquito control and I live down the st from a swampy area. Thanks! I love all ur videos, they are very thorough!!! :)

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I think that any of the liquid IGR's are pretty good. Tekko Pro happens to be the one that I use, but I don't think you can go too far wrong with any of them. I generally do not use Talstar P anymore. I find that Bifen IT is a bit cheaper to use and does the same job. For treating the yard, I use Bifen XTS. I find that it works way better in a hose end sprayer. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. So far, I have not needed to use an IGR when treating my lawn, but I am going to experiment with one for my next treatment. The problem is diluting the IGR sufficiently so that it will get picked up by the syphon tube in the sprayer. Even though I have never needed to use an IGR on my lawn, I know that there are some people who are going to need to do it, so I am going to work on a procedure for that. For now though, I can only recommend treating with a tank sprayer and mixing the products according to label recommendations. The Bifen IT gets mixed at 1 ounce per gallon, and the Bifen XTS gets mixed at 1/3 ounce per gallon. If you have mosquitoes, the most important thing you can do is to remove their breeding areas. You want to remove any standing water that you can find. It doesn't take much water for them to find a breeding area. They do not usually travel too far from their breeding area, so they may not be coming from that swampy area at all. I have a neighbor that has an old swimming pool that is a serious breeding ground for mosquitoes, but I almost never see them in my yard. Only the female mosquitoes bite, and that is because they need to take a blood meal before they lay their eggs. After they get that blood meal, they want to get to the breeding area as quickly as possible, so they do not usually venture too far away from it. So, if you are seeing mosquitoes, then there is probably a breeding area very close by. I find that if I just treat the yard every 60 days with the Bifen XTS, and I make sure that I have no standing water, then I rarely see a mosquito. Naturally, using a mist blower is going to make short work of treating your yard. They sound expensive, but pest controllers can charge upwards of $150 a month for this service, so a mist blower would pay for itself in two or three months. If you are just going after mosquitoes, then this could be a good option. When I treat the yard though, I am going after a lot more than mosquitoes. Mostly I want the ants and the American roaches gone, and the mosquitoes are just a side benefit. Certainly, if you treat your yard with Bifen IT or Bifen XTS, and an IGR, then I don't think the mosquitoes will stand a chance. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qZ2a0baOZcfToJM.html

Hey Guy, thank you for your videos. They’re very helpful. I recently hired a pest control company (RIDD) and they’ve now treated my house 3 times. I’m still seeing roaches in the middle of the day. Each time, the pest guy always tells me to get rid of the sectional. Well, I just got that sofa, and I don’t have the thousands of dollars to replace it. Do I really need to dispose of a sectional I can’t afford to replace? Or is there an option I can use to treat it?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Duncan Harris I am so sorry that you are having this problem, but you are not alone. The sad truth is that there probably aren't a dozen pest controllers in the entire world that know how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. It is widely believed in the industry that it is virtually impossible to eliminate a German cockroach infestation and that is what they teach us in pest control school. Therefore, what pest controllers are going to sell you is a control plan that is designed to try and knock down the population to the point where we do not see that many roaches anymore. If the infestation isn't that bad yet, then they can get away with it for quite some time, but they must keep coming back at least every month. However, if the infestation has spread to other rooms besides the kitchen, then the infestation has reached a point where they are not going to be able to even control it. If you have cockroaches in your sofa, then the truth is that you have a very bad infestation and there is no way that any pest controller is going to be able to get a handle on it. It's really not their fault though. They were not trained on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. The reason for that is because nobody knows how to do it. That is, until now. After spending years in the industry fighting these things, I ran into a pest controller who had an idea on how to totally eliminate an infestation. Unfortunately, at that time, we did not have the kind of products that would have allowed us to implement his theory. That has now changed, and we have the products available to get it done. Several years ago, I developed a very specific treatment plan that made good use of the products that we have available today. For a very long time, I had no way to share it with anyone, but that has also changed. Now that I have access to KZread, I am able to share it with the world, and I believe that it is going to become standard practice for all pest controllers within the next few years. I already have pest controllers contacting me to help them get started. So, the bottom line is that you cannot currently hire a pest controller who will be able to assist you with this. The good news is though that this is something you can do yourself. If you live in a single-family home, you can totally eliminate the infestation 100%, but if you live in a multi-unit building, such as an apartment or condominium, then the best you can do is to roach proof your unit, so that new roaches that come in from adjoining units will die shortly after entering your living area. In many cases, even though roaches continue to enter from adjoining units, you will never see them, because they will immediately hide and will die within a few days after entering your unit. Therefore, they will never be able to establish an infestation in your living space. If this is of interest to you, then watch my KZread video on how to do it. I will place a link below for you. I must warn you though that this is going to cost you 90 minutes of your time. Eliminating a German cockroach infestation is not easy, and I was not able to explain it in five minutes. If you want these things gone, then the price is patience. You must take the time to watch the entire video, and there is a good chance that you may need to watch it more than once, because you must do the procedure correctly for it to work. If you are willing to spend the time to learn how to do this correctly, then you can take heart in the fact this video has been viewed over 50,000 times, and not one person has reported that it didn't work. I hope that helps. Please get back to me after you watch the video, and I will give you specific instructions on how to use these techniques to get rid of the cockroaches and your sectional. Be well my friend. Video on how to eliminate a German cockroach infestation: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eKOspaRuoa-2faQ.html

Hi Guy, love your videos. I have a question about damage. I inherited my parents house. They have had Orkin for 30 plus years. We were working on the house recently and found termite damage. A contractor came in and it's going to be thousands of dollars in damage and found live termites! is Orkin responsible for the damage since my parents have had the contract since 1990.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

That is a somewhat complex question. Some people purchase a damaged warranty when they contract with a pest controller. What that basically means is that the pest controller will pay for any damages that were caused after the treatment was completed, for the duration of the contract. Most people do not buy this coverage because it is expensive. Even if you do buy it, then it only covers you for damage that was caused after they treated. It is a common practice for them to argue that the damage you are seeing was mostly caused before they treated, so it is not covered. That sort of warranty aside, you will probably find language in the contract that specifically states that the pest controller is not responsible for termite damage. Further complicating this is the question that you inherited the house. That would suggest that your parents have passed away. If that is the case, I am so sorry to hear that. Since the contract was with your parents and not you, it is unclear how much liability the pest controller would have anyway. That would be something that you need to ask him attorney. I am understandably curious about what type of termite protection Orkin was providing. Were they using a bait system, like Sentricon, or did they trench the house? I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Hey Guy! Thanks for your honest advice! What do you recommend doing for scorpions in the home? I have found 2 this week, each about 1.5 inches long. This was after I put down boric acid pellets and sprayed an Ortho product I found on Amazon. I live in a new development in Austin, TX. Is that something for me to hire pest control for or is there a DIY solution? I've never heard of scorpions in the home -- how serious is this? Thanks in advance!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you for reaching out to me. I think I can help you with this problem. I'm sorry that it took so long to get back to you, but there's a lot to explain here, so I needed to be able to cut out some time to be able to do that and I was busy doing a lot of pest control yesterday. I got up at 3:00 AM this morning, so that I could take the time I need to give you a full explanation. Unfortunately, I do not have a video on this subject, so I'm going to have to write it out for you. I just finished writing this and it's 6 AM. However, this is so long that KZread will not allow me to send it in just one comment, so I need to split it up into two comments. Part 1: Most people think of scorpions as something that you will find in the middle of the desert, but the truth is that scorpions can be found in all 50 states throughout the US. There are about 90 species of scorpions in the US, but only about two of them all lethal to humans. Typically, the lethal ones are usually only found in California, Arizona, and New Mexico. So, while these guys are definitely scary, most of the time, you are dealing with a species that is not lethal. The ones that invade your home are generally very small and are no longer than about 2 1/2 inches. Still, these guys can inflict a very painful sting, so they need to go. The best way to treat scorpions is from the outside. Like all pests, scorpions didn't somehow miraculously appear inside the house. They had to enter from the outside. Therefore, the best way to prevent them is to treat the outside of your home. So, let's start there. The first thing you want to do is to wear the correct clothing before you begin treatment. You need to be careful, so you definitely want to be wearing some sort of boots, long pants, and heavy gloves. Now you may not see a whole lot of these guys when you are walking around your property. That is because they are nocturnal and typically like to hide during the day. So, you want to be careful when you are working around areas where they like to hide. Any place that will give them cover is probably a good hiding place. This would include places like in mulch, under ornamental plants, under firewood, or anything left lying around the ground. If they can get under it, then it may be a hiding place, so be careful. Keep in mind that scorpions cannot climb smooth surfaces, and so you typically find them at ground level and that is where they enter the house. This is not always the case though, if you have shrubberies around your home that are touching the building, or if the side of the house provides a rough climbing surface. So, the first thing you want to do is to build them out. To do that, you want to caulk or seal any openings or cracks and crevices around your home, particularly near ground level. Pay attention to openings around doors and penetrations that are made by pipes. For small openings you can simply use a paintable caulk that you can get from Home Depot or Lowe's. For larger openings you can purchase a product called "Stuff Fit." This is a copper mesh that pests cannot get through. I will provide a link below for the product. Now that you have built them out, it's time to apply a pesticide that is going to kill any scorpions that are hanging out on your property. I recommend that you do the treatment every two or three months, and more often if needed. Scorpions are hard to kill, so sometimes you need to treat more often that you would with other pests. I recommend using Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide and a specific garden hose sprayer that I know works, but you can use any brand that you wish. I will place a link below for both the sprayer and pesticide. Always make sure that you wash your sprayer really well after use and that you run clean water through it, so that it does not clog up on you. These things can clog very easily, so make sure you clean them thoroughly. This is a hose end sprayer, and these guys have a tendency to stop working sometimes while you're using them. I cannot tell you how many times I have spent 1/2 hour just spraying plain water because my sprayer stopped picking up the pesticide out of the holding container. Now, you can always put a dye in it, so that you can see it coming out of the sprayer, but that will limit where you can apply the product. You don't want to be shooting dye on the house or concrete surfaces. So, what I do is I carry a clear measuring cup with me, and I shoot a little of the pesticide from the sprayer into the cup. I literally do this every five minutes or less. If the liquid in the measuring cup is crystal clear, then the sprayer is not working. The liquid should look cloudy or off color just a little bit. This is how you know that the sprayer is still working. I usually have the measuring cup in one hand and the sprayer in the other. Very important! Do not let go of the trigger before you spray into the cup. If you start the spray into the cup, then it may show that you are using pesticide, when really the sprayer is not working. That is because there is a burst of pressure when you first wheeze the trigger on the sprayer, and you may get pesticide out for a few seconds and then it will stop working again. So, what you want to do is shoot the liquid into the cup while you are spraying, without letting go of the trigger. Again, you should be doing this constantly while you are spraying. If the sprayer stops working, the most likely cause is the siphon tube. Check the screen at the bottom of the tube to make sure it is not clogged and make sure that the tube is securely seated into the sprayer. If you cannot get the sprayer working again, you usually need to buy another one, because it is clogged. I always keep two of them on hand, in case one clogs. That way I do not need to stop the job because of a malfunctioning sprayer. Continued in next comment.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Part 2: This application method does not require a lot of protective equipment. I recommend wearing goggles, rubber gloves, boots, long pants, a respirator, and long sleeve shirt (If it's not too hot out). If you're going to be moving shrubbery or anything where a scorpion may be hiding, then where heavy gloves over the rubber gloves. Hose and sprayers work best when the solution in the holding cup is very thin. The closer you can get the viscosity to water, the better the sprayer will work. So, I dilute the product as much as I can. This pesticide should be mixed at one ounce per gallon of water. Now, the sprayer is a little tricky because it measures tablespoon, instead of ounces. Why they did this makes absolutely no sense, but that is what they did. It's not that hard though because two tablespoons equals one ounce. A maximum flow rate on the sprayer is 10 tablespoons, which is 5 oz per gallon, so we will dilute our product accordingly. The math is pretty easy here. If we want a flow rate of five oz per gallon, then we need to add 4 ounces of water for every one ounce of product. Now, you can pour the concentrated product into the sprayer and then add 4 ounces of water for every ounce of product, but I prefer to mix the product in a two-cup measuring cup. I have a clear plastic one that I got on Amazon, and it's the same one that I carry with me while I am spraying. So, I will usually just put 2 ounces of concentrate into the measuring cup and then fill it to the 10 oz line. That gives me the perfect mixture to pour into the measuring cup. Put as much of this diluted product as you need into the sprayer and then attach it to a garden hose. Again, you want to set the sprayer on the number 10. Set the sprayer for a downward fan spray and spray your lawn, ornamental plants, and garden. When spraying your garden, do not spray directly onto the fruits or vegetables, unless they are actually getting eaten by some sort of bugs. You also want to spray up the side of your house about three feet. Then you want to spray from the house across the entire property, right to the property line. Be sure to spray all the concrete, such as patios, the driveway, and sidewalks. Soak the area really well where the side of the house meets the ground. Also soak mulch, pine straw, pine bark, and so forth really well. When you are treating ornamental plants, you can turn the sprayer nozzle to an upward position, so that you can get under leaves. Pro tips: To make this application quicker and easier, I recommend that you buy 100 feet of one of those super hoses that you see advertised on TV all the time. They are lightweight and make the job go a lot quicker and easier. Also, if you attach a quick disconnect to both the sprayer and the garden hose, it makes refilling the sprayer a lot easier and quicker. These hoses require that you have a shutoff valve at the end of the hose where the sprayer is located, so that you can shut the water off prior to removing the sprayer. Most of the hoses have a shutoff valve built in, but not all of them do. If you buy one that does not have a shut off valve, then you need to add your own. I will place links below for all these items. Please note that these hoses should be stored inside because they deteriorate fairly quickly when left in the sunlight. After you finish treating, be sure to clean up your yard. Trim back any overgrowth that is around the house; rake up any leaves that are around; clean up any firewood; and try to remove any other hiding places where these guys can hang out. After you finish treating the exterior of your house, then it's time to find any of these guys that are hanging out inside. Just like when dealing with the outside, you want to wear those heavy gloves, boots, and long pants. Good places to look for scorpions would be behind items that are stored in the garage; under major appliances, like the stove and refrigerator; under the sinks in the kitchen and bathrooms; anywhere you have clothes; inside shoes; behind curtains; under and behind any furniture that is against the wall; and under the beds. Remember, scorpions cannot climb smooth surfaces, so you're going to find them near the floor, unless they have a climbing surface, like draperies or sheets and blankets that are touching the floor. That's right. They can climb up into bed with you, if you have bed linen that is touching the floor. Now, here's a fun fact. Scorpions will glow green if you shine a black light on them. So, if you inspect in a darkened room with a black light, they are fairly easy to spot. If you find any, you can spray them with Raid Max Spider and Scorpion Killer. This is a quick kill product, and it should knock them out pretty fast. I'm sorry that this is so lengthy, but I wanted to make sure that you have all the information you need to do the job right. I hope this helps. Be well my friend. Onslaught: Onslaught FastCap Insecticide | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com) If you cannot get the Onslaught from Solutions Pest and Lawn, then try domyown.com: Onslaught FastCap Spider and Scorpion Insecticide | Free Shipping | DoMyOwn.com Garden hose sprayer: Amazon.com : Chapin International G364D Professional 32-Ounce Hose-end Sprayer with Metering Dial, Translucent White : Patio, Lawn & Garden Garden hose: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SYT173G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Quick connect fittings: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QG6F3Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Shutoff valve: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CZYGVFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Stuff Fit: Stuf-Fit Copper Mesh | Copper Mesh Exclusion Tool | Solutions Pest & Lawn (solutionsstores.com) Raid Max Spider and Scorpion Killer: Amazon.com: Raid Spider and Scorpion Killer, Kills spiders, scorpions, roaches, ants, Waterbugs, earwigs, 12 Oz : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Thanks, Guy! Need your advice please? (BTW, This video is so timely - I have been reviewing your termite videos after seeing one white ant in the middle of my living room scurrying into seams of the hardwood floor.) We had trenched a year ago after I observed swarming in the backyard, now I am super scared because I found a worker termite inside the house, on the second floor! 😭 We have cracks in the stucco so maybe the subterraneans found a highway to visit the interior. Are there any DIY solutions for hardwood floor interior? Or should I look for professionals to tent the house 😵‍💫. Thank you for your time and sharing your expertise!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Please tell me where you live. Trenching the house should have taken care of your subterranean termite problem, if it was done correctly. Most pest control companies do know how to do this properly, so I'm guessing that is the case with your house as well. That makes me wonder if your problem may not be drywood termites or Formosan termites. Have a look at my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood and Formosan termites are a problem. If you live in one of these areas, then there is a reasonable chance that you are infested with one of these species. In the case of Formosan termites, it is possible that you had these guys when the pest control company did the trenching and they did not properly identify the species. Even though Formosan termites are subterranean, they also have the ability to colonize inside your house. They are the only species of subterranean termites that have this ability. The trenching that was done will prevent Formosan termites but it will not effectively treat for them. The trenching will stop new ones from entering the building, but the “cartons” that exist in your walls and other voids in the home will not be affected by the trenching. Therefore, those cartons would need to be treated separately. Unfortunately, if this is the case, the prescribed treatment to deal with cartons is to remove the drywall and then remove the carton. Obviously, this is a somewhat expensive process to do and so this would have been a major mistake by the pest control company if that is what happened. If that is not what happened and the problem is actually drywood termites, then the only fix for that is fumigation. Again, this is another expensive process and, it is possible that your original problem was drywood termites all along and the pest control company incorrectly identified the species. That would mean that you didn't need the trenching at all. Of course, it is not beyond the realm of possibility that you had both species at the same time. In fact, you could have had all three species at the same time. That would be extraordinarily unusual, but I have learned to never say never in pest control. So, the first thing that you need to do is figure out what species you are looking at. The best way to do this would be to get a free inspection from a different pest control company. I don't think I would trust that original pest control company that did the trenching at this point. All of that being said, it is possible that the original trenching that was done may have failed, but that is fairly unlikely. If you live in the red or orange areas on the map, then there is a pretty good chance that the pest control company did not correctly identify the species. If you live outside of these areas, then most likely the trenching did fail and will need to be repeated. I hope that helps. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n41oqK-vcavYfaQ.html

@springcleaningsales

Жыл бұрын

Thanks, Guy. I’ll schedule an inspection/pest control pro. I live in Southern California; last year after I saw swarming, I obtained 3 separate quotes for treatment and all of them identified subterranean in my backyard (feasting in large wooden railroad ties that have aged and rotted inside probably) and also found dry wood termite in the detach garage (which is 10 ft from the main house.) House was trenched and garage spayed. They did not inspect the interior because our house was built on steel beams so may not have a lot of wood beams inside ( but now I am thinking they must have some wood inside to anchor the drywall!) We have hardwood floor over 3feet thick concrete flooring (to house the radiant floor heating), but cracks all over the stucco outside. I really thought the inside was safe - boy, I am so sad to wrong! 😓 sounds like fumigation might be needed. I’ll interview for some professionals to come assess. I’ll remember your tips in this video!!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@springcleaningsales It sounds like you have quite the house. I have to admit, I have never heard of a house having concrete floors that were three feet thick. It is also unusual to have a house built with metal studs, but that is a very good idea. Here's the thing though that a lot of people don't realize. Termites do not just eat wood. That is because it's not wood that they want to eat. What they really eat is cellulose. The reason they eat wood is because it contains cellulose, but so does paper. So, these guys will eat anything that contains cellulose and since paper contains cellulose, they will eat drywall. Also, I have never seen a house built with metal roofing before, although I suppose that is possible. Most of the time, the roof structure is going to be to be made out of wood and will be subject to attack. One of the most common places for drywood termites to enter your home is through the eaves. They will establish residence in your attic and then slowly work their way down into the walls and the wall studs and maybe even the drywall. In your case, you have metal studs, so it is possible that they made their way down to your hardwood floors. It is also possible that they entered through those cracks in the stucco as well. In any case, the pest controller that found the drywood termites in the garage should have known to inspect your house. Since I launched my channel a couple of years ago, I have become more and more disillusioned with pest controllers. I didn't realize it prior to launching my channel, but there are a lot of pest controllers out there who are not as competent as they ought to be. I say this because I am getting a lot of these kinds of stories about pest controllers that keep dropping the ball. Now, I cannot say for certain without doing an inspection, but I think there is a fairly high probability that you do have a drywood termite infestation. You also live in Formosan termite territory, so I cannot rule out the possibility that the pest controller that trenched your house didn't realize they were treating Formosan termites. I'm not saying that happened, but I wouldn't rule it out either. I am more likely thinking drywood termites in your case, but if it were me, I would leave no stone unturned if I was inspecting your house. Hopefully, you get somebody to inspect that at least goes up in the attic and has a look. If it were me, I would also check all the drywall with a moisture meter, but I have my doubts that they're going to do that. The reason for checking the drywall with a moisture meter would be to make sure that there are no Formosan termite cartons in behind any of the drywall. Again, there probably aren’t any, but I never take chances with Formosan termites. I would like to think that the company that trenched your house knew what they were doing and treated for the correct species. Still, I keep hearing all the stories about how pest controllers screwed up, so I'm starting not to trust them anymore. Please take the time to keep me posted. I take all of these cases personally and I always want to know what the outcome turns out to be. You have a particularly interesting case and I cannot help but be curious about what is going on. Be well my friend.

@springcleaningsales

Жыл бұрын

Thank you! Thanks for the clarification on cellulose! I’ll try to find inspectors who can do a thorough inspection - though I am afraid they may not find anything without ripping up floors? I am wondering should one sighting of one white ant inside the house cause alarm…

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@springcleaningsales You make a very good point. It is very possible that the little white insect you saw scurrying across the floor was not a termite at all. Typically, we do not see termites. Especially the cream-colored ones. A termite that would be that color is going to be one of the workers and they never expose themselves to the air. I suppose I should have mentioned that before, but your description makes it sound a lot like a termite worker. Therefore, I always think it's best not to take any chances. Still, the construction of your home does make it a lot less likely that you would have a termite problem. It's like I told you before though, I never say never when it comes to pest control. For that reason, I would not take chances and I would get the inspection done. Hopefully, what you saw was not a termite at all. Be well my friend.

cinderblock home 1960 no termite inspection we were painting saw some frass along roof just had new roof cost a fortune ... i cant afford termite tenting.. was told theres no termites because it block home.. i looked at wood below roof saw dry rot damage is that mean termites or is it old wood? can t treat attic myself? i live in tampa florida

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

If you live in Tampa, then you are definitely in drywood termite territory. However, that does not necessarily mean that you have dry wood termites. Having dry rot is not the same thing as having termites. I would not be a bit surprised though if you do have drywood termites because they are all over the place around the Tampa area. Even if you have a block home, you still have your entire roof structure that is made from wood and, most likely, you have wooden studs that are attached to the concrete blocks on the interior of your house that are used to attach the drywall. Further, termites will also eat drywall. So, your house offers plenty of food for drywood termites to be fat and happy. Now, the question becomes, were you seeing dry rot or were you seeing evidence of drywood termites? I responded to a previous question you had that was associated with a different video, where I recommended either inspecting yourself or getting a professional to do the inspection. I still recommend that you do that. If you have dry wood termites, then it is probably not limited to the roof. If you go up in the attic, then you may be able to find frass and kick out holes. You should also be aware that, just because you don't find any frass or kickout holes, that does not mean you do not have an infestation. I cannot tell you how many times even the professionals have missed infestations because drywood termites can be very difficult to find sometimes. That is why you may want to have a professional look at it and also take a look yourself. If there is no evidence of drywood termites, then I would assume that you do not have any, but again that may not be the case. So, if it does not appear that you have an infestation, then I would immediately begin doing the three-month preventive treatment. I gave you a link to that video already when I responded to your other comment, but I will give you another link here. If I were you, I would get going with that preventive treatment just as soon as possible. Unfortunately, if you do have drywood termites, then the only sure way to get rid of them would be to fumigate. Keep in mind that the gas they use to fumigate has no residual action, so that means you must do the preventive treatment every three months or you're going to get them back. This treatment should be started before the fumigation is started because you can get reinfested the same day the tent comes down. If you have dry wood termites, then I can guarantee you that your neighbors have them as well and they will reinfest your house the first time they swarm. I know that this is all really scary stuff, but I think it's important for you to understand the truth about how drywood termites work. You made a huge investment in your home and so you don't want it to get eaten. I promise that I will do my best to assist in any way I can. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to prevent dry wood termites:

Hi Guy. What would be the best way to treat a crawl space under a house for termites? Would Bora-care be the best chemical to use? I live in Southern California and because of you I now know I will have to treat for drywood termites as well. Thank for all the amazing information you provide!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

I can see that you've done your homework. Color me impressed. I love it when people take the time to actually learn about this stuff, so that they have a good idea about how it will works. Since you have looked into this, then you know that drywood termites operate quite differently than subterranean termites and you have both of those species where you live. Treating your crawlspace with Bora-Care is going to be effective for both species of termites. That is to say, this treatment will render your crawl space termite proof, providing that the treatment is done correctly. This would require removing all the insulation from under the crawl space so that you can treat the underside of the flooring, as well as floor joists. You would also need to treat all the wood where it contacts foundation. While doing this is a very good idea, it may not eliminate either subterranean termites or drywood termites that are attacking the rest of the building. Let me explain why that is. As I'm sure you already know, subterranean termites never colonize in your home. They always colonize in the ground, somewhere within a 300-foot radius of the center of your home. Assuming that there is only one colony attacking your home and that colony is eating the wood in your crawl space, then treating the crawl space with Bora-Care should eliminate the problem. However, if you happen to have more than one colony and the second colony is attacking from the outside of the house, then they will not encounter the wood in the crawl space. This is most likely not the case, but it would be prudent to also treat the perimeter of your house with granules, just to make sure that you have all your bases covered. Treating with the granules only cost about $50, so it's a very good idea to take this extra step. In fact, if you did just the granule treatment and not the Bora-Care application, then that would most likely eliminate a subterranean termite infestation, without the need to do the Bora-Care treatment. So, you can save yourself a lot of work, if you identify the species before you do any treatments. Don't get me wrong, it's always a good idea to treat the crawl space with Bora-Care, but the truth is you wouldn't have to do it if you only have subterranean termites. I will get into how to determine which species you have in just a bit and I will give you a link on how to do the granule treatment. If you have dry wood termites, then treating the crawl space with Bora-Care will only kill the termites that are in the crawl space. That is because these guys are not like subterranean termites. The subterranean termites always have to return to the ground to bring food back to the rest of the colony, but drywood termites do not colonize in the ground at all. These guys colonize in your wood and they tend to make small galleries throughout your entire house. Each gallery operates independently from all the others and so, unlike subterranean termites, there is no central gallery that you can target. For that reason, if you have drywood termites in your crawl space, then there is almost a 100% chance that you have them in other areas of the building as well. This means that the only sure way to eliminate that infestation from your house would be to fumigate. Again, treating the crawl space with Bora-Care is always a good idea, but that would not end a drywood termite infestation. So, this is another reason why you need to figure out which species you are dealing with. So let's talk about that. Obviously, the simplest way to do this would be to just call a professional and ask for a free termite inspection. Almost all pest control companies would be more than happy to come in and have a look for free. Keep in mind though that the national companies are likely to send out a professional salesperson that we'll try to get you to sign a contract right away. This person was most likely a pest controller in a previous life, but he’s been doing sales for quite some time now. While this person can probably identify your species, you do need to stay strong and not sign any contracts. The other way to go is to call a locally owned pest control company, that will most likely send out an actual pest controller or the owner of the company to have a look. Either way you go though, you will be able to find out the species. Just make sure that you make them list the species and their estimate for the treatment. Also, ask them for a written treatment plan. If you are not wild about getting a pest controller in your house, then it is possible for you to inspect yourself. If you think you have an infestation in the crawl space, then go down there and look for mud tubes. Subterranean termites do not eat concrete, so they almost always build mud tubes from the ground up to the wood. You may also see these mud tubes on the wood as well. You should also look for mud tubes on the outside of the building. Just like in the crawl space, you will see these mud tubes coming up from the ground to the wood. Most of the time you will find mud tubes someplace, but not always. If you cannot locate any mud tubes, then you either have drywood termites or you need to do a little bit more investigating. Let's start with the investigating. Drywood termites do not build mud tubes, but they do make kick out holes in the wood and they do leave frass. Therefore, the next thing you want to do is look for tiny holes in the wood and something that looks a bit like sawdust underneath those holes. If you are seeing these tiny holes and this sawdust material (frass), then you have drywood termites. However, if you are not seeing kick out holes, frass, or mud tubes, then you're going to need to locate a damaged area and probe with a screwdriver. Just take a flathead screwdriver and dig into the wood, where you think the activity is, and see if you can dig out some termites. You only want the ones that have red heads. If you can obtain a specimen with a redhead, then put it in a jar and it will die fairly quickly because they cannot live long when exposed to the air. After the termite is dead, then you can send me a photograph of it and I will tell you what the species is. At this point, I'll bet you are thinking that calling a pest controller to do the inspection might not be such a bad idea after all. So, there you have it. Just figure out what the species is and then you can decide if you need to treat for subterranean termites or drywood termites. In any event, you can understand now why you cannot just simply treat the crawl space with Bora-Care. I hope that helps. How to treat for subterranean termite with granules video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html

@mariesunga8942

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions I know 100% that we have drywood termites. I'm unsure of subterranean termites. So in this case treating with the granules like you mention on the exterior would be a good idea. I saw your video on treating for drywood termites and will follow your advice there. We have not occupied the home just yet as we are in escrow, but we got the recent pest control report from the seller and the report states there is evidence of drywood termites in several areas of the home including the window frames and in and around the crawlspace. The treatment recommendation states localized treatment. I can send you the report to your email if you don't mind taking a quick look at it. Thank you so much Guy!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@mariesunga8942 I am not even sure where to start here. I understand that you do not know me and you have no reason to believe me over a pest controller that went out and looked at the property, but I can assure you that a localized treatment is definitely not going to get it done. I promise you that any pest controller that goes out to do a spot treatment is not going to eliminate that drywood termite infestation. The only way to totally eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to fumigate. Since you have not closed on the house yet, I would talk to your Realtor and explain that the seller must do a total fumigation of the house, lower the price by whatever it would cost, or place that amount of money in escrow so that you can take care of the problem after the closing. Since time is of the essence in this case, you may want to simply ask the same pest control company that did the inspection to give you an estimate on fumigation. Whatever amount that comes to would be a good number to use to lower the price or place in escrow for you. Most real estate contracts will allow you to terminate the contract if the house fails a termite inspection, which this one did. Sometimes the seller is allowed to fix the termite problem to keep the contract in place, but a spot treatment is not sufficient to do this and so, if it were me, I would insist on a fumigation or I would walk away from the deal. Either that or you must understand that, after the closing, you are going to need to get the house fumigated at your own expense. If you watched my video on how to prevent a drywood termite infestation, then you know, going forward, that you will need to do an exterior treatment of your house every three months to prevent a new infestation. You should do the first exterior treatment before the fumigation takes place because the gas they use to fumigate the house has absolutely no residual action. That means you can get reinfested the moment that tent comes down. To prevent this from happening, you need to have that pesticide barrier in place prior to the fumigation. Unfortunately, this is something that most pest controllers will not do and so that makes it something that you must do yourself. The reason you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down is because, if your house has drywood termites, then I guarantee you that the surrounding homes in your area also have drywood termites. These guys can swarm for several months during the year and so they will almost certainly be paying you a visit after the fumigation is completed. I'm not sure if you watched my video on how to prevent drywood termites, so I will place a link below for you just in case you didn't. I am so sorry that I have to be the bearer of bad news here, but I want you to go into this real estate deal with your eyes wide open. I promise you, at some point, that house is going to need to be fumigated. The only question is who is going to pay for it? Those termites are busy eating as we speak, and they will continue to eat until that fumigation is completed. I can assure you that I am 100% correct about this. I hope that helps. Video on how to prevent a drywood termite infestation: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html

@mariesunga8942

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you Guy. That helps tremendously! We will certainly do an exterior treatment and get a quote for the fumigation so that it also gets done. The home is selling under the appraised value and the seller stated they will not do any repairs or termite treatment, basically selling "as is." It's a beautiful home priced just right for us and in a great location, built 1998. We had agreed that any repairs or termite control would be our responsibility. We will shop around and get different quotes to get the home fumigated while it's empty. I feel relieved that we will be doing this the right way. Can't thank you enough Guy!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@mariesunga8942 That sounds like a very wise decision and I think it is exactly what I would do myself. If you got a great deal on the house, then it's probably worth spending another couple of thousand dollars to get the fumigation done. I love it when people make smart decisions. Good for you. Well done. Be well my friend.

Guy would it be better to spray my stucco exterior with Taurus SC before or after I prime and paint ? There are lots of carpenter ants (fascia water damage) and I also want to prevent termites. thanks again, great content as usual !

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

That would definitely be after you paint. If you apply the Taurus SC first, then you will be covering it up with the paint. I suggest that you let the paint cure for a couple of days before you apply the Taurus SC. Don't worry. The Taurus SC is non staining and you will not even know that it's on top of the paint. If you have not done so already, please watch my videos on carpenter ants and how to treat termites with granules. I will place links below. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Carpenter ant video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hpltpLd8kay3irw.html Video on how to treat and prevent termites with granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html

@DaveG-qd6ug

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks Guy, both videos were very helpful. I will paint first !

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@DaveG-qd6ug You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

I heard different companies use a different gas to fumigate dry wood termites. Which has do you recommend?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Methyl bromide is the gas that is generally used to fumigate your home. There are variety of different brand names for it, but they are all the same thing. There are other kinds of gas that can be used, but you want methyl bromide. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

Hi Guy, I have a 23 year old house on top of a ridge, dry clay. Discovered subterranean termite damage in Sheetrock basement walll from slab to ceiling. Block basement wall with firing strips rigid insulation. Terminex came did a house inspection no apparent problems were found other than this location. Want 2500 for whole house liquid trench and drilling concrete and wood decks. 1700 for liquid treatment of just this wall 12’ and a whole house bait system which comes with yearly inspection and bait management 300 a year after first 2 years. Liked your 10 point video. Thinking of treating this known area myself. Easy dirt access for self trench and chemical application. What do you think? Thanks! John Gunther

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Most likely, you have a situation where the termites are outside the footprint of the house someplace. When they arrive at the foundation, they're most likely heading down into the basement through some sort of penetration in the foundation wall. It is possible that part of the colony is directly under the house, but this would be an unusual situation. Therefore, I would trench around the entire house. This is something you can do yourself very easily for about $100. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link to it. You can give any termite treatment a bit of a boost by doing a spot treatment. If at all possible, spot treating for subterranean termites should not be the only approach to eliminate an infestation. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud, or furring strip, where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, all the way to the concrete. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony. Now let's talk a little bit about the baiting system that they are trying to sell you. The bait that they use does not kill termites. I know. That sounds crazy. Doesn't it? What they use as a bait is called an “insect growth regulator.” Instead of killing the termites, it interrupts their ability to reproduce. If they cannot reproduce, then the colony dies out. The problem is that the workers can live up to two years, so it can take that long to kill the colony. Why in the world would anybody want to wait two years to kill the colony, while the termites are busy eating your home? That does not sound like a great plan to me. I much prefer the 12 week kill time that you can achieve with trenching and spot treating. The termiticide to do the trenching will only cost about $100 and the foam to do the spot treatment will only cost about $60 to purchase two cans. So, you can treat this entire thing yourself for about $160 and the treatment is good for 5 to 10 years, with seven years being the average. I can tell you that is what I would do. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites the right way: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html

Great videos Guy, Thanks. I have two questions, I understand the trench (sound for the incoming termites) but for the termites already inside the house How do get ripe of them? How depth of the ground do termites travel to the house? Thanks again.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Assuming that these are subterranean termites, and most of the time they are, then you do not need to treat the ones inside the house. You can treat them if you like, but it is typically not necessary. You see, subterranean termites must return to the colony fairly often to obtain the moisture that they need to survive and to feed the other termites in the colony. The colony is always located underground and never in your home. Therefore, if you trench around your home, the termites will have no choice but to pass through the termiticide on their way to and from the colony. The termites do not know that this is a poison, and they will happily travel right through it and share it with the other termites in the colony. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. No more colony, no more termites, and no more infestation inside your house. The only exceptions to this are Formosan termites and drywood termites. With drywood termites, they are not subterranean at all and so they will colonize in your home. While Formosan termites are subterranean, they are the only species of subterranean termites that have the ability to colonize in your home. So, unless you have one of those two species, there is no need to treat inside the home. If you would like to know if you have one of these somewhat less common species, you can watch my video on how to identify termite species. There is a map in that video that will show you where drywood and Formosan termites are a problem. If you do not live in the red or orange areas on the map, then you have a common variety of subterranean termites that will be easily eradicated by trenching. If you would still like to spot treat inside the house, that certainly would not do any harm, but it would not be necessary. Just let me know if you would like to do that and I will give you the directions for it. In the unfortunate event that you do live in the red or orange areas on the map, then please get back to me, so that we can talk about it further. I hope that clears it up for you. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n41oqK-vcavYfaQ.html

@George-xq8iv

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you very much for your explanation.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@George-xq8iv You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

@jayman3535

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, I live in the Orange Zone and have been had termites activity for about 6 years that I've spot treated myself. The termites hit me pretty hard last summer, especially in my garage. I decided to get professional help. Have collected about 6 bids and decided to go the trenching/drill route using Termador or Taurus product (I ruled out a couple companies that wanted to use 'bait stations'). Have narrowed it down to 2 companies based on price and reviews. Both give a year warranty, but for an extra $100 one company will spray the walls/ceilings in my home where they had termite activity and clean up the signs of termite activity. I believe I have Eastern subterranean termites but I'm not 100% sure that they could be Formosa termites. Seems the extra $100 might be worth it for the peace of mind and removal of signs of activity. Any thoughts you have on this?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@jayman3535 I think you made a smart decision going with trenching instead of baiting. I would recommend that the first thing you do his look at the estimates to see if they listed the exact species. If they did not, then you need to call them and ask if these guys are Formosan termites. If they are not Formosan termites, then simply trenching around the house is fine. However, if they are Formosan termites, then the pest controllers need to inspect the inside of the house for cartons that may be in the walls. Those things need to be removed. Hopefully, you only have a common variety of subterranean termites that can be easily treated by trenching alone, but it is worth checking. A one year warranty for a trenching job is pretty flimsy. I have been out of the business for a while now, but the warranties used to be five years. We know that trenching lasts a minimum of five years, so these folks do not seem terribly confident in their ability to do the job correctly. With regard to doing a spot treatment inside, I always think that is a good idea, as long as it is done correctly. You cannot spray pesticide on the walls to treat termites. You need to drill holes into the affected studs and ceiling joists, and then inject a fipronil foam into the holes. I find it hard to believe that a pest controller would be willing to do the correct spot treatment procedure for $100. That being said, I have no idea what this pest controller is planning to do. So, it may or may not be worth the money. If it were me, I would just go ahead and treat this myself. You can do it for $100 if you trench, and you can do it for about $50 if you use granules. It only takes about an hour if you use the granules, and they work about 95% of the time. Trenching is not that hard to do either, and you can usually treat the entire house and about a day. So you will earn a pretty good paycheck for one day's work. If you are going to hire a pest controller, then I would just go with the lowest bidder. Trenching is a super easy thing to do, and most pest controllers will not muck it up too badly. I will give you links to my videos, in case you wish to think about doing this yourself. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat termites with granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eK1ru6qij5rAaMo.html

Is orange oil gas good to fumigate with

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

No. None of those "natural" treatments for termites are going to work. Orange oil has the same problem as boric acid. I did a video that explains why boric acid will not work on termites. Now, there are some things that boric acid does work well for, as well as some other "natural" products, but you certainly cannot fumigate with any of these. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termites vs boric acid video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hpxkmaOCfdnWprQ.html

I am in Chicago, and I am planning to use roach exterminator, any suggestion which company to go for

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Yes I do. My recommendation is, don't use any of them. I would be willing to bet the farm that you have German cockroaches. There is almost a zero possibility that you are going to find a pest controller that has any clue about getting rid of German cockroaches. I know this sounds insane, but none of them know what they're doing when it comes to German cockroaches. All they know how to do is control the problem and not eliminate it. That is because they are taught in pest control school that it is virtually impossible to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. They will tell you that they are going to eliminate it, but all they are really going to do is sell you and ongoing treatment plan for it. In other words, they're going to need to return every month to keep your cockroaches out of sight. That is because they are simply doing it wrong. I have a video on the correct way to eliminate a German cockroach infestation. This is something that I figured out a number of years ago. Just like every other pest controller, I was taught that you cannot eliminate a German cockroach infestation. However, I met just one pest controller that had a concept about eliminating German cockroach infestations and I built upon that theory, until I found a method that would get the job done. So, my recommendation is to watch my video and then get back to me so that I can give you some further advice that you are going to need because you live in an apartment. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. German cockroach video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eKOspaRuoa-2faQ.html

@nadine91

Жыл бұрын

Also places online like domyown pest control have kits and instruction videos on how to diy it.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@nadine91 Those are all pretty much a waste of your money. They simply do not work. You may get some control over the infestation and knock down the population a bit, but there is no way in the world that you're going to eliminate the infestation with these kits. Some of these kits can even make the infestation worse in the long run. My advice is, don't do it. Spend the time and money to do it right the first time. I hope that helps. Be well Nadine.

Salutation Guy, I moved Into a subsidized housing projects at the end of April of this year 2023 and in June I witnessed a nasty bug scurrying acrossed my bathroom floor when I quickly turned on the lights at night. (German Cockroach) and yes I did ask for his passport! Lol That's when I found you and your Gift. I have only seen that 1 roach but I do know better and I did do as you said and just completed phase one... Now about a week and a half ago I brought home 2 kittens whom I guess where infested with fleas...Fun Fun I know ( I also have an almost 13yrold. Golden Retriever who wears a 3 month flea solution) Well now my place is flea barren... I have treated my pets but what should I do now with already completed phase 1... should I just go to phase 2 or is there something else I should do seeing that I was originally exterminating for roaches? I guess my German Cockroaches got pet fleas... please help I am an animal lover but not so much a bug lover... Ty Guy God sure knew what he was doing g when he made you❤

@GuysPestSolutions

10 ай бұрын

It sounds like you're getting a handle on the cockroaches. The fleas are another matter though. You need to treat fleas a bit differently, but the treatment shouldn't disturb the cockroach treatment. To rid your home of fleas, the first thing you need to do is to vacuum all the upholstered furniture and pet bedding, paying particular attention to places where fleas can hide, like behind cushions. Next, vacuum the floors throughout the house. If you have a vacuum with a disposable bag, then discard the bag outside in the trash. If you have a vacuum with a reusable canister, empty it outside in the trash and then wash it out with the garden hose before bringing it back in the house. Wash all bed linens and pet bedding in your washing machine and dry on high heat. Next, spray a pesticide that is labeled for fleas, on all the floors and on areas of upholstered furniture that does not come in contact with people or pets. To treat floors, hold the can at arm’s length and make sweeping motions across the floor to cover all surfaces. For upholstered furniture, you should spray under the cushions and then any folds that there are. The product that I like best is called PT Alpine Flea and Bed Bug Aerosol. I will give you a link for it. Fleas can be hard to kill, so you may need to do this treatment every two weeks until the problem is solved. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. PT Alpine Flea and Bed Bug Aerosol: www.domyown.com/pt-alpine-flea-and-bed-bug-aerosol-p-1886.html?pdpv=2&sub_id=25601

Is there a DIY alternative to the Sentricon termite system? I’m in NE Florida and have a slab foundation. This was installed before I bought my home and the annual fee is $316. I’m searching for an alternative.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

The Sentricon system works really well, but it's pretty much just a money-making operation for pest control companies that you really do not need. In most cases, all you really need to do is apply termite granules around your home every year. This annual treatment takes about an hour to do and only costs about $50. For this to work, you need to have dirt surrounding your house on most sides. It's okay for there to be grass, gravel, mulch, and so forth, as long as there is dirt underneath it. Also, it's okay if you have a concrete patio or wooden porch somewhere around the house as well or a driveway that leads to an attached garage. You just need most of the house to be bordered by dirt. I will provide you with a link to my video on how to do this. The other option you have is to install your own monitoring system that would replace the Sentricon system. There are a few different options with this, but I think the easiest one is to use Red Eye stations. I like these because you do not need to remove the top see if there is termite activity. There is little red dot at the top of the station. When that dot disappears, then you have termites. Just check them every month and if you see one of the dots disappear, then you simply inject a fipronil foam into the station and that will kill off the termites. These stations cost about $15 each and you need to place them about every eight feet apart around the entire house. I will provide you with a link for the Red Eye stations and the granules. If you would like to be super safe, then you can use both the granules and the Red Eye stations at the same time. Personally though, all I use is to granules. Please note that Home Depot and Lowe's used to sell the proper granules, but most of the stores either do not sell the granules at all or are selling the wrong ones. Therefore, I no longer recommend that you buy the granules from Home Depot or Lowe's. The good news is that the granules are still available from Amazon. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to apply termite granules: kzread.info/dash/bejne/emumucGNg6Wuepc.html Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k0_1_4&&crid=6U88F9WCRYVP&&sprefix=bioa RedEye stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor

@BeckVMH

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks so much. My son-in-law who worked for a pest control business while in college and has the same opinion. I do plan to use the granules recommended and have watched your vid.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@BeckVMH Thanks for watching. I think you made a smart decision. You just saved $266 a year. Be well my friend.

do i need soffit around exterior of house

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Are you asking if you need to treat the soffit? Please email me at guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. KZread is holding your comments and I am not getting them right away. That happens sometimes, so please email me. Please tell me what pest is of concern to you. Thanks.

Can thermal cameras pick up heat from termites in the ground?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

To be perfectly honest with you, I don't know. This technology became more available after I retired, so I have never really had the opportunity to use it. Moreover, even if I did own one of these devices, I probably would not have thought about looking for termites in the ground. I don't think you would be able to locate a colony that way because these colonies can be as deep as 25 feet in the ground, but it may be possible to get a heat signature off termites that are traveling close to the surface. I just don't know the answer to that question. I do think it would be kind of a fun thing to experiment with though. This is definitely a fascinating question. Thank you so much for asking it.

@spiritfilledify

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you for getting back to me. Thank you for your honesty. I like your videos....very helpful.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@spiritfilledify Thanks for watching. Be well my friend.

Hi, Can I spray Termador on all the dry wood in the attic and tape window screens over all the vents to kill drywood termites? Is Termador SE and the generic form of termador SE the same thing in the same amount per ounce? Thanks

@petecurtis

Жыл бұрын

Adding to questions above: I already had the house tented, and I am adding an ounce of Termador to every gallon of paint when I paint new spots of wood.

@petecurtis

Жыл бұрын

I want to know if i can keep new drywood termites from getting back in the wood from spraying the termador on the wood

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@petecurtis You should not use Termidor in the attic. If you are going to spray the wood in the attic, then the product you want to use is Bora-Care. This product will render the wood permanently termite proof. I will give you a link to the product and a video on how to use it. Always mix it and a 5 gallon bucket and always mix it 1 to 1 with water. The label says you can mix it 1 to 5 with water, but I do not recommend it. The product can clog up the sprayer pretty easily, so buy the cheapest pump up garden sprayer that you can find. Mixing Termidor with paint will not do anything to treat or prevent drywood termites. You are better off treating bare wood with Bora-Care, then wait at least 48 hours, and paint. Taurus SC is the generic form of Termidor SC. There are others as well. The dilution rate is the same. Now, let's talk about drywood termites. It is important to understand how drywood termites work. They enter through cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, pipe penetrations, and so forth. Most of the time, they enter through several locations. That is because a swarm of them attacked your house at the same time. If there was a crack or a crevice, then they probably found it. After they established their galleries, which will be inside the wood, it will take four to seven years for them to be able to swarm. Now that they are in your house, the swarmers will use holes that are in your studs to travel through the walls. Those holes in the studs were created by the electricians to run the electrical wiring. Not only are these holes going through the studs, but holes were drilled into the attic for the light switches and to run some of the wiring for the outlets. So, the termites now have easy access throughout the attic and the walls. If you have a basement or crawl space, they have access to that as well. Most of the time, you will have no idea that they are in the walls, because the frass is inside the wall. To make matters worse, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them too. That means you have been getting swarmed for as long as they have existed in the neighborhood, and you are still getting swarmed, even though you fumigated. I'm guessing that you already know that the gas they used to fumigate has absolutely no residual action whatsoever, so you can get reinfested the moment the tent comes down. Like I said before, if you have drywood termites, then your neighbors have them as well. Since drywood termites swarm every year, it is almost a certainty that you will be reinfested within a year after the fumigation is done. I don't know how long it's been since you did the fumigation, so it is possible that you have already been reinfested. The only way to prevent this is to do a preventive treatment on your house every 60 to 90 days. Most pest controllers will not do this, so it is something that you generally need to do yourself. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. You should begin the preventive treatment immediately, so that you do not get additional termites paying you a visit. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html Video on how to use Bora-Care: kzread.info/dash/bejne/hKGmwcN-n8ffmMo.html Video on how to prevent drywood termites: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oJmC1c-Pks2egMY.html

@petecurtis

Жыл бұрын

@Guy's Pest Solutions Thanks Guy for the thorough answers! I will watch those videos soon. I am installing a new water heater now. I already sealed up the porch and garage eaves with caulking, cemented all around the house, repaired some damaged wood, and paid for rain gutters to cut off some of their water supply. Hopefully with your videos and the treatments in your videos, I can hold them off this time, but it sounds like it will be hard, especially with all their holes they created, the new drywood termites will have a custom built mansion for them to move back into.

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@petecurtis The procedure for preventing drywood termites is foolproof. It works every time, as long as you are not already reinfested. We are at the end of swarming season right now, so there is a good chance that they are busy starting new galleries right now. So, I recommend starting the preventive treatment and then keep an eye out for new kick out holes and frass. If you see any, then you will need to fumigate again. I know that it is expensive and shame on the pest control companies for not telling you that you could have prevented them. The truth is that they want you to get reinfested, so that they can fumigate again. I am so sorry. Be well my friend.

Might I add - don't talk to any pest control companies that roll around your neighborhood on Segways claiming they can spot termite damage from the curb, ha!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Agreed. I would say that is a huge red flag. In fact, I don't know that red flags get much bigger than that one. You are a very smart man. Thank you so much for watching another one of my videos. Be well Jeffrey.

We have termites in our walls of the garage going up to the second floor. There is brick on out side wall. How do we treat them in the walls of our house?

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

That depends upon where you live and what the species is. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. I will provide a link below. There is a map in that video. Please let me know if you live in the red area, orange area, or outside of those areas. Also, let me know if you are seeing mud tubes, frass, or kick out holes. Once I have this information, I can tell you exactly how to deal with the problem. I look forward to hearing from you. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/n41oqK-vcavYfaQ.html

@michaelbalsley6041

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions They are subterranean termites. I live in Nashville Tn. Looking at Orkin to do the work. Spraying the walls and foaming areas around The infestation and treating the slab where they were coming up through in the middle of the expansion crack in the garage. Drilling and foaming in the holes. Then using center con bate around the house. I thought I would also treat with what you recommended with the granules and water around the perimeter. In addition to what they do. Does that sound good? I don’t know how far they have gotten into the house behind the walls will the foam treatment be enough. They said it is not very bad. A 3-4 out of 10 being the worst case scenario.

@michaelbalsley6041

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions What would you recommend for subterranean termites in our walls of our house???

@michaelbalsley6041

Жыл бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions what would you recommend for subterranean termites in the walls of our house???

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

@@michaelbalsley6041 The Sentricon system generally works very well, but it is pretty much a rip off. It seems pretty cost effective because there is generally a fairly low price for installing it. The problem is though that you have to pay them for the rest of your life to keep monitoring it. Can you imagine buying a car and the payments never stop? It's a great deal. All that car is going to cost you is $99 down and $99 a month, for 99 years. With Sentricon it's going to be a few hundred dollars down and then something like $300 a year for monitoring and that $300 payment every year that never ends. The pest controllers that use this system laugh all the way to the bank. Easy money. The truth is that this is something you can treat yourself for less than $100. Then, you can prevent it from happening again by simply applying termite granules around your house every year. So, instead of spending that $300 a year, you can spend $50 a year, and get the same results. To understand why this is, you need to understand how subterranean termites work. You see, these guys never colonize in your house. They always colonize in the ground, someplace within a 300-foot radius of your home. They are not living in your house. They are only going there because your house is their favorite restaurant. Here's the thing though. Not all termites like to eat out. There is a whole bunch of them, including the queen, that prefer takeout. So, the termites that are visiting your house must return to the colony fairly often to obtain the moisture they need to survive and to feed the rest of the colony. If you simply place a termiticide around your home, then the termites have no choice but to pass right through it on their way to and from your house. This product is a non-repellent, and the termites have no idea that it is a poison, or even that it exists, so they will happily travel right through it. When they do, they will bring it with them to share with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony, including the queen. No colony, no termites, no infestation. Just like the pros, you can also do that spot treatment on the expansion joint. It's super easy too. All you need to do let's get a can of fipronil foam and shoot it into the expansion joint. Just drill holes about 1/8 inch wide in the center of the expansion joint, about every 6 inches apart. Then just shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds. It's just that easy. The foam costs about $30 and one can is probably all you'll need. So, if you just apply the granules around your house, water them in, and then treat that expansion joint with the foam, you will have effectively done the same thing that they will do for under $100. In fact, the treatment that you do with the granules may actually work better than the Sentricon System. That method is nothing more than a bait. They will be putting bait stations around your house and then periodically checking them for activity. The hope is that the termites will find the bait and take it back to the colony and share it with the other termites. Most of the time they do, but not always, and that is why they want to treat your expansion joint. If you treat the expansion joint, that's pretty much a sure thing. Then they don't have to worry about it the termites finding the bait and they can go on year after year collecting your money by doing nothing more than walking around your property every now and then. That sure is a great deal for then. If you would like to do this yourself, I will place links below for you. Keep in mind that, whether you do it or they do it, the process takes between two to twelve weeks to kill off the entire colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k0_1_13&=&crid=5VKGAJXMK6H9&=&sprefix=termite+granu

Do you have a video on how to kill termites?

@GuysPestSolutions

2 ай бұрын

I have several termite videos, but how you handle your specific situation will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do and I can point you to the right video. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzread.info/dash/bejne/ln2nwcNpnsm8mso.html

@herrent

2 ай бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions will do

@herrent

2 ай бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions I have the dry termites. So it looks like fumigation and 60 day treatment.

Tenting = fumigation?

@GuysPestSolutions

2 ай бұрын

Tenting and fumigation only works for drywood termites, so you need to make sure that is the target species. If it is, then I can explain exactly what you need to do. Just let me know and I will cover it in detail for you. Be well my friend.

@herrent

2 ай бұрын

@@GuysPestSolutions i can send you a picture of them. There was about 100 of them hanging out yesterday by the damage

@GuysPestSolutions

2 ай бұрын

You can send photos to guyspestsolutions@gmail.com. Please watch my video on how to photograph a bug. You need to take the photos correctly for me to identify them. Also, if you are seeing frass, then send me a closeup photo of that as well. Frass looks like piles of sawdust or tiny pellets. Be well my friend. Video on how to photograph a bug: kzread.info/dash/bejne/e2ylxphsmLucqZs.html

I am just wondering if Guy would have made these videos while he was currently running his business. Hmm mm, I think not !

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Highly unlikely, since KZread didn't even exist back then. I have been retired for almost 20 years now and KZread is only about 18 years old. However, if it had existed, I think I would have made some videos. Be well my friend.

@maryswann7623

8 ай бұрын

As a woman, an old woman in fact, I have had the pleasure of good vs bad mechanics, repairmen etc. Guy takes time to explain everything, not like other videos. He is fair and helpful. I am happy I found his videos. I feel he would be a great pest exterminator!

Thanks!

@GuysPestSolutions

Жыл бұрын

Thank you so much. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.