Really cool video Gavin. Glad to see your channel growing.
@HansKeesomКүн бұрын
And just that lexel caulking is enough to make it watertight?
@GavinStoneDIYКүн бұрын
Between that and the pitch the roof is on yes. It’s still doing great. But like I’ve mentioned to other people in the comments, there is a rubber product that’s designed for going in between the panels. So I would recommend that instead. They just didn’t have it available when I built my solar roof.
@HansKeesomКүн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you for that information. I consider building somehing like this in a tropical country where it sometimes rains heavily. Pitch and rubbers should do the job. Combined with a opening at the top for hot air to escape.
@a-fox2 күн бұрын
Solar panels get hot so mounting them without space above and below the panels for air flow is a bad idea. Plus panels go bad and replacing one that is part of your roof opens up all kinds of problems.
@GavinStoneDIYКүн бұрын
I have space above and below the panels. I figured if one or two panels fail I’ll remove them from the string. If more fail I’ll eventually just replace the roof with more panels.
@bhbaker2202 күн бұрын
Did you use backer board screws to install the inverter on your wall? Did you have one screw going into a stud?
@GavinStoneDIY2 күн бұрын
I used lathe screws. But basically anything capable of holding the worker would work. I did hit a stud yes.
@markpartin84032 күн бұрын
I noticed the two communication cables seem to be (Labeled) specific. I am assuming they are labeled to either assist people with knowing the location to plug them in, or they are not standard Ethernet (T568A/T568B) terminated. Is one of the cables a crossover?
@GavinStoneDIYКүн бұрын
The parallel cables have a specific pinout. The battery communication cables are just cat6 cables I believe.
@markpartin8403Күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY Hey thanks for the response ! I appreciate the information your channel provides.
@sharedaccountjoint16192 күн бұрын
How hot inside in the summer?
@GavinStoneDIY2 күн бұрын
It’s warm for sure. Although any inclosure is hot in the summer without air conditioning.
@2point..03 күн бұрын
I...Like...It!!! I...Want...One!!!
@GavinStoneDIY3 күн бұрын
They are nice machines for sure! I’ll be working on another video for it next week hopefully.
@2point..03 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY I will keep my eyes open for it, I am designing a different type of home and this 12KPV would be a great fit for it, form~fit~and funtion!!!
@philpilkington3 күн бұрын
Brilliant!
@justin90553 күн бұрын
Do you think this would run a 1hp deep well pump-hard starting at around 50-53 amps?
@GavinStoneDIY3 күн бұрын
Yes. I don’t think it would have any issue.
@justin90552 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you very much!
@willfixthingsfordonuts3 күн бұрын
As a happy EG4 6000XP owner, I'd like to see a load/start comparison of 2 6000XP and this 12K. I'm one of those guys who will feed batteries rather than the grid.
@GavinStoneDIY3 күн бұрын
That really wouldn’t be an apples to apples comparison. The output on this inverter is 8kw. 2 XP’s output 12kw. The 6000XP’s have a really robust surge capacity. But the 12kpv is definitely impressive when it comes to surges also.
@fernarias3 күн бұрын
with prices now out it would be better to get 2x 6000xp that can output 240V at 50A (12000 watts) and cost less for both.
@GavinStoneDIY3 күн бұрын
For off grid it’s hard to beat the XP. And they do a fantastic jobs on surges also. But for people considering one standalone unit that has a waterproof rating, is quiet and runs smooth, this could be a good option.
@d.pollard59622 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIYwith a closed system. No dust
@GavinStoneDIY2 күн бұрын
@@d.pollard5962 yeah that’s a big factor.
@busog976413 күн бұрын
That is a beautiful shed.
@GavinStoneDIY3 күн бұрын
It has certainly been great for the last 2 years.
@AdamDeLay074 күн бұрын
Looks like a beast! I like that it's got the same features as the 18kPV just slimmed down.
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
Yeah. It’s an 18kpv with short legs.
@KeithOlbermannn4 күн бұрын
Are you going to do a similar review of midnite's latest AIO?
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
I’m still pondering that. I’m looking forward to seeing more of Adam’s videos on it. And I may get one to stress test. They look really cool.
@joetripp1234 күн бұрын
Nice unit. I really like how it pairs well with the wall mount batteries from EG4. If I needed grid interactive features this is what i'd go with as I don't need 18k level power. I love that it's dead quiet till over 6kW and a low idle consumption. Thanks for the review Gavin. Oh, can you clarify - can you run both a power pro and a bank of LLs rack batteries on one inverter via bus bar? Thanks.
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
Thanks! Yes you can run both. They’ll parallel and communicate together without an issue. I’ll try to show that in my next video on the 12kpv. They have the same BMS, so it works really well.
@thinde884 күн бұрын
Great review. Tell EG4 I want an outdoor rated 6000XP next!
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
👀
@d.pollard59622 күн бұрын
@@thinde88 that is basically the 12kpv. It would cost that much with a 10 year warranty, and sealed for outdoor use. The cost would be close to or the same so not worth the build. Great idea though. The price point and features on the 6000xp is the why it is so awesome 😎
@jerryguerrero43544 күн бұрын
Great video! One question, your LL batteries are paralleled to the indoor power pro batteries on the bus bar on the indoor power pro? and communication as well I'm assuming?
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
Exactly. Technically they are using the exact same BMS. I’ll try to show that in a follow up video.
@jerryguerrero43542 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank You! I would appreciate it. I have 3 LL's and looking to purchase 1 indoor power pro , so I'm looking to do the same. Just want to make see how it's done before I pull the trigger. All Great videos, keep it up.
@jhojaD4 күн бұрын
It would be an interesting comparison vs Deye, apparently egyll is a better option.
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
The LL’s and Pro batteries are a better option in my opinion. Yeah this is obviously cheaper than a Solark 8k. I wish I had one on the wall to test them side by side.
@carlossantini4 күн бұрын
Another great video! Could you set it up 120/208 and check voltages on phase-to-phase and phase-to-neutral? We live on a condo (USA) we get 120/208 service from the grid.
@GavinStoneDIY2 күн бұрын
208v? Wow
@carlossantini2 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIYhi, yes is oretty normal for condos and apartment complexes in the US. Could you set it to 120/208 and confirm if the voltages are in fact 120/208?
@GavinStoneDIY2 күн бұрын
@@carlossantini sure. I’ll take a look this weekend if I get a chance.
@ToddLarsen4 күн бұрын
This is a great sounding unit, and the price is a lot nicer than the 5k I am currently looking at. Hmmm, it might be changing my mind. Thanks for sharing, and as always, keep building 👍
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
It really just depends on how much power you need. The 18kpv does provide a lot more power when needed.
@ToddLarsen4 күн бұрын
@GavinStoneDIY I used your affiliate link to order a 12k, I hope they give you a good kickback 👍
@GavinStoneDIY3 күн бұрын
@@ToddLarsen man I really appreciate that. It’ll be neat to see you making content with this inverter!
@ToddLarsen3 күн бұрын
@GavinStoneDIY cnc plasma table, 3d printers, water heater, and a whole lot more. Air conditioning in the back 40, lol
@northidahodreaming56574 күн бұрын
Thanks for review this.....well done!
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
Thanks! I had a good time on this one
@TylerTheCompiler4 күн бұрын
great job as always thank you...would LOVE to see a comparison to the NHX-10K...that NHX seems to be holding up pretty well from what I read on the forum, and the price is really good too...
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
Yeah the NHX has a bit more output power. But it lacks an AC coupling option. This inverter is way easier to wire up because of the wiring compartment space. Plus it has better line balancing and surge specs. Although the NHX is still cheaper. It probably depends on what someone needs out of the inverter.
@thedabbler27534 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIYI’d be eager to see the comparison too. I learned the hard way about line balancing on a 3k unit which couldn’t handle an 1800W microwave or coffee maker so am curious how the NHX fares here.
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
@@thedabbler2753 the NHX could handle just over it’s rated output on a single line. But not for too long. I do like the multiple MPPT options on the NHX. You could have 4 arrays in different areas with that inverter.
@thedabbler27534 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY the multiple MPPTs is a major sell for me. Lots of shading here so I have three strings on the go at present. ps. I know this probably isn't the thread but if you have any data on how the NHX does with house lights flickering, or inductive loads. Maybe a future video when the EG4 fun dies down a bit ;)
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
@@thedabbler2753 I’ll be honest. I wish I still had it. It was just a loaner for a review. I had zero flickering lights. And it did better than I anticipated on inductive loads. It wouldn’t have the lengthy surge time of a Lux inverter, but it can keep that steady 10kw rating.
@ianstephenson6504 күн бұрын
Gavin, this is what I need. Do you think two 6000xp would be more powerful utilizing 16k worth of PV? Two 6000xp would still be cheaper but at the expense of bit more idle consumption. I am really having a hard time deciding although my application is off grid.
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
2-xp’s vs 2-12kpvs?
@ianstephenson6504 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY I am not sure what your answer is, should I buy 2 6000xp or 1 12kpv?
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
@@ianstephenson650 ahhh ok. I was just asking if you were considering 2 of each. It really depends on how much power youll need. The 2 6000xp’s will output 12,000 watts. And you’ll be limited to 8,000watts with the 12kpv. So things like water wells or larger electric appliances have to be taken into account. The 12kpv wouldn’t be able to utilize the entire 16k of solar. So that’s another factor. And then redundancy is something to ponder also. If one of your XP’s goes down for some reason you’ll still have power. If the 12kpv drops then you’d be out of power unless you have another backup. There is something to be said for both really.
@easttexascowboy2574 күн бұрын
Good job on the video, as always! And congrats on passing 20k subscribers!
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
Thanks. It’s all uphill from here!
@lucthien6014 күн бұрын
Look like you combi Server Rack Batteries and Wall Mount Indoor Battery. Next video can you show me the batteries connection + Inverter Communication (RJ45) Thank you.
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
I’ll try to add that yeah.
@lucthien6014 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you. I ask that because I have 4 Server Rack Batteries on my 6000EX love to update to 18K inverter and add Wall Mount Indoor Battery later.
@GavinStoneDIY4 күн бұрын
@@lucthien601 yeah I’m still using the 18k for the house off grid. Still working fantastic
@quickquote15684 күн бұрын
Its well known that high frequency, transformerless inverter have a far shorter life expectancies when compared to low frequency, transformer based inverters. Search KZread or Google for the term. "EG4 problems" if you don't believe what I say.
@joshhartin785 күн бұрын
Nice! Great video as always. 👏🏻
@GavinStoneDIY5 күн бұрын
Thanks man
@prepsolar7875 күн бұрын
waoo!! nice well this will be my upgrade to my 6000xp if i decide to sell back to the grid. here in puerto rico the grid company is a mess thats why i have not considered to get a hybrid inverter. plus my 6000xp is working flawless 24/7 from day one. but got to say price range the 12k is a good option. like always excellent video my friend
@GavinStoneDIY5 күн бұрын
Yeah if someone needed an inverter for net metering this would be a great option. It also has the grid features. Like you mentioned though, it’s hard to go wrong with a 6000xp for off grid uses.
@PRVRT14 күн бұрын
Im' in PR too. Running 24/7 on one 6000xp and got a second in parallel about a month ago. I f you decide not to sell to the grid it would be better to get a second 6000xp. Luma / grid will continue to get worse as people keep connecting to it for solar.
@ericnewton5720Күн бұрын
Stop voting democrats in puerto rico
@Roll2Videos5 күн бұрын
Very nice!
@GavinStoneDIY5 күн бұрын
🙋🏻♂️
@GavinStoneDIY5 күн бұрын
Affiliate links to the 12kpv signaturesolar.com/eg4-12kpv/?ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo Current Connected link to the inverter www.currentconnected.com/product/eg4-12kpv-48v-hybrid-all-in-one-inverter/?ref=xhJJBPDS
@gordiehattrick5 күн бұрын
13,000 Kw??? How many solar panels do you have???
@GavinStoneDIY5 күн бұрын
30- 400watt panels. And 6-450 watt panels. So a bit over 14kw of solar.
@Cd556505 күн бұрын
What bus bars did you use?
@GavinStoneDIY5 күн бұрын
I meant to add them to the description. I’ll put them there now. They are great little busbars from Current Connected.
@natesvg5 күн бұрын
Hello what's the maximum DC current on the label on the bottom of that inverter
@GavinStoneDIY5 күн бұрын
It should be around 90-100 amps discharge current.
@scottturner79076 күн бұрын
Does this produce its own power from solar? And use the battery on cloudy days or at night?
@GavinStoneDIY6 күн бұрын
Yes. If you check the link I have in the comments or description you can look a the manual. It has some schematics in there to show how the inverter operates. Hopefully that helps.
@dus10dnd7 күн бұрын
So many issues. You're going to have surface tension in a heavy rain that will have water dripping behind your corrugated steel on the bottom part of the roof. You should have oriented the panels at the top so the connectors were at the bottom. The caulk is probably not the best way. Some sort of channel below for the vertical joints, and then some sort of overlapping sheet for the horizontal joins... raise the upper panel a few millimeters, and then get a thin sheet of steel.. then caulk that down.
@GavinStoneDIY7 күн бұрын
It’s been over 2 years and I haven’t had issues with any of the items you mentioned. I do have some drip edge toy the bottom section if I ever wanted to install that. I just haven’t ever needed to. There is a nice rubber channel you can buy for between the solar panels now. So I’ll make a video about that eventually.
@dus10dnd6 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY The orientation is just to make it so you wouldn't have to try and route things around if you want to change things or do maintenance. The caulk may degrade with time because of UV light. some sort of flashing held down with the caulk or construction adhesive would like hold up longer. The failure isn't something that I would say would be imminent... it could be 5-8 years from install. With a flashing, it could last 20-25 years.
@GavinStoneDIY6 күн бұрын
@@dus10dnd yeah when I installed the panels I realize the caulking may not be the best solution. I mentioned that in the video. But it is a UV resistant. So we’ll see how long it lasts. If I had to do it over I would use the rubber rolls designed for waterproofing panels. But at the time they weren’t selling them. I wouldn’t use a flashing on top. That would look terrible. Plus you’d still be relying on an adhesive or caulking to achieve that waterproofing.
@EbanQHanna7 күн бұрын
The #3 wire that you installed to the PE bar, where did that came from? Ground on main breaker or earthing rod?
@GavinStoneDIY7 күн бұрын
It came from my ground at the main panel. All of my grounds can be traced back to my main panel and grounding rods.
@dlbalzotti7 күн бұрын
I love you. This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
@GavinStoneDIY7 күн бұрын
Glad it helped!
@ToddLarsen7 күн бұрын
On my system, i have the battery setting as a user, and it will not charge more than 20%. Should i have it set to lead acid, even though i have Lifpo 4? Thanks for sharing, and as always, keep building 👍
@GavinStoneDIY7 күн бұрын
Unless you have communication set up, with voltronic units like yours you’d want to set it to user. Just make sure your voltage settings are still correct. That might be why it’s only charging to a lower amount. It almost sounds like it’s set to 48v bulk charge.
@ToddLarsen7 күн бұрын
My solar arrays have solar array envy. I just realized that you have a channel as well, so I subbed right away. It's great to hear about your 18k unit kicking butt and taking names. We will have one soon, and I'm excited to kick these gremlins to the curb. They have been driving me nuts lately. Thanks for sharing, and as always, keep building 👍
@GavinStoneDIY7 күн бұрын
Yeah I can’t wait to hear about your install. Feel free to email me if you’ve got any questions when you’re getting it set up.
@thelonewolf6667 күн бұрын
they only last about 14 years and then you have to do again---pretty stupid hey
@GavinStoneDIY7 күн бұрын
It would take me about a day to fully replace this. And panels are still very cheap. Makes complete sense to me.
@hollywoodj5008 күн бұрын
Gavin Stone, you haven't done any AC coupling with that inverter? what is the set up for the AC coupling with this inverter?
@GavinStoneDIY8 күн бұрын
The generator port is meant for smart loads and AC coupling.
@toddlitton78349 күн бұрын
After 2 Months are you still running it? How's it doing? I'd like to install solar this year, but want to be grid tied but not back feed the grid. Really just want to be able to use what I produce and grid back up or if I was to go over the 10K rating while grid is connected have grid make up the difference I don't think I would pull much more than that often.
@GavinStoneDIY8 күн бұрын
I ran the unit for around 3 weeks or so. But I don’t still have it on my wall no. Adam Delay did release some reviews videos on this inverter as well. Im not sure how well it does on zero export. I haven’t seen anyone post any readings on that yet.
@toddlitton78348 күн бұрын
Thanks yes I've see Adam's channel as well subscribed to both yours and his enjoy the content.
@nukeguy0610 күн бұрын
Very helpful! Appreciate your explanations!
@GavinStoneDIY10 күн бұрын
Glad to help. Thanks for watching
@GoingSolarEnergy10 күн бұрын
How did you cut the unistrut? Grinder?
@GavinStoneDIY10 күн бұрын
I used a chop saw. But some of the slanted cuts I used a grinder yeah.
@davidbruce537711 күн бұрын
I have an 100amp panel with peak load of 18kw
@GavinStoneDIY10 күн бұрын
If you’re supplying a sub panel from the grid That’s a different story. But you mentioned the inverter. Those output 25 amps. Which Doesn’t require anything near that big. How many inverters are you installing?
@davidbruce537711 күн бұрын
Hi, I appreciate your videos. I have a planned 100amp panel with 3 or 4 gauge. You fit 6 but I wondered if thats the max size? Or would a lug adapter work?
@GavinStoneDIY11 күн бұрын
8 awg will work. 6 awg is actually a bit overkill for this inverter. I don’t believe 4 awg would fit in the terminals.
@davidbruce537711 күн бұрын
Thanks for your reply. Would a ferrule reducer 3 to 6work?@@GavinStoneDIY
@GavinStoneDIY11 күн бұрын
@@davidbruce5377 possibly. But why use 4 awg? The units output 25 amps. Even with the bypass power being 50 amps 8 awg would still work.
@lukimy270411 күн бұрын
Working on my system right now. I think I have it all figure it out except for ground and Neutral bonding from the main panel. My manin panel does not have a ground, how should I wire it then?
@GavinStoneDIY11 күн бұрын
How old is your home? They may have it grounded in a separate panel outside.
@lukimy270411 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY the ground and neutral is bonded in the panel. Should I run separate ground from the outside to the 6000XP?
@GavinStoneDIY11 күн бұрын
@@lukimy2704 it’s supposed to be bonded at the main panel. From there you’d run a ground and neutral conductor separately to the inverter.
@lukimy270410 күн бұрын
@@GavinStoneDIY I just don’t understand what is the point of running two separate wires if ground and neutral share the same bus bar?
@GavinStoneDIY10 күн бұрын
@@lukimy2704 they shouldn’t be on the same bar. They should have separate bars. Typically they will just be bonded with a green screw in the main panel. And that should be the only location there is a bond in the system. After that they remain separate. There is a lot of articles on the subject if you want to delve deeper. The neutral is technically a current carrying conductor. And the ground is not.
@AngelaHutchison-ky8gh14 күн бұрын
Thanks for the video! So you don’t need a neutral and a ground from the main panel to the critical loads panel at all? The line power coming from main to inverter covers that? Thanks again
@GavinStoneDIY14 күн бұрын
Assuming you are wiring it into a critical loads panel like I did, that is correct. Each individual circuit you are transferring from the main doesn’t need the ground and neutral. The main bypass wire will provide the proper gauge ground and neutral to supply the critical loads panel.
@AngelaHutchison-ky8gh14 күн бұрын
Yes sir. I’m wiring mine the same as yours. Excited to get started on this project. Folks like you putting these videos out make it more doable for the rest of us.
@AngelaHutchison-ky8gh12 күн бұрын
My inverter is in a different room than my panels. What do you think about running the line to inverter from main and load to sub panel through the same conduit? Is this a no no?
@jeffmoestaygyi.124815 күн бұрын
How big is your battery system?
@GavinStoneDIY15 күн бұрын
A little over 1700ah of batteries.
@matadorbeagles112016 күн бұрын
What are the detailed mounting location ratings for these indoor batteries. Does inside in a pole barn in south Texas meet the requirements or is the outdoor rated battery required in this situation.
@GavinStoneDIY16 күн бұрын
I haven’t studied into that section in the manual. Personally I think if the space isn’t conditioned, just to be cautious I would probably get the outdoor rated version. More for the humidity aspect than anything. But I may be wrong on that.
Пікірлер
Really cool video Gavin. Glad to see your channel growing.
And just that lexel caulking is enough to make it watertight?
Between that and the pitch the roof is on yes. It’s still doing great. But like I’ve mentioned to other people in the comments, there is a rubber product that’s designed for going in between the panels. So I would recommend that instead. They just didn’t have it available when I built my solar roof.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you for that information. I consider building somehing like this in a tropical country where it sometimes rains heavily. Pitch and rubbers should do the job. Combined with a opening at the top for hot air to escape.
Solar panels get hot so mounting them without space above and below the panels for air flow is a bad idea. Plus panels go bad and replacing one that is part of your roof opens up all kinds of problems.
I have space above and below the panels. I figured if one or two panels fail I’ll remove them from the string. If more fail I’ll eventually just replace the roof with more panels.
Did you use backer board screws to install the inverter on your wall? Did you have one screw going into a stud?
I used lathe screws. But basically anything capable of holding the worker would work. I did hit a stud yes.
I noticed the two communication cables seem to be (Labeled) specific. I am assuming they are labeled to either assist people with knowing the location to plug them in, or they are not standard Ethernet (T568A/T568B) terminated. Is one of the cables a crossover?
The parallel cables have a specific pinout. The battery communication cables are just cat6 cables I believe.
@@GavinStoneDIY Hey thanks for the response ! I appreciate the information your channel provides.
How hot inside in the summer?
It’s warm for sure. Although any inclosure is hot in the summer without air conditioning.
I...Like...It!!! I...Want...One!!!
They are nice machines for sure! I’ll be working on another video for it next week hopefully.
@@GavinStoneDIY I will keep my eyes open for it, I am designing a different type of home and this 12KPV would be a great fit for it, form~fit~and funtion!!!
Brilliant!
Do you think this would run a 1hp deep well pump-hard starting at around 50-53 amps?
Yes. I don’t think it would have any issue.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you very much!
As a happy EG4 6000XP owner, I'd like to see a load/start comparison of 2 6000XP and this 12K. I'm one of those guys who will feed batteries rather than the grid.
That really wouldn’t be an apples to apples comparison. The output on this inverter is 8kw. 2 XP’s output 12kw. The 6000XP’s have a really robust surge capacity. But the 12kpv is definitely impressive when it comes to surges also.
with prices now out it would be better to get 2x 6000xp that can output 240V at 50A (12000 watts) and cost less for both.
For off grid it’s hard to beat the XP. And they do a fantastic jobs on surges also. But for people considering one standalone unit that has a waterproof rating, is quiet and runs smooth, this could be a good option.
@@GavinStoneDIYwith a closed system. No dust
@@d.pollard5962 yeah that’s a big factor.
That is a beautiful shed.
It has certainly been great for the last 2 years.
Looks like a beast! I like that it's got the same features as the 18kPV just slimmed down.
Yeah. It’s an 18kpv with short legs.
Are you going to do a similar review of midnite's latest AIO?
I’m still pondering that. I’m looking forward to seeing more of Adam’s videos on it. And I may get one to stress test. They look really cool.
Nice unit. I really like how it pairs well with the wall mount batteries from EG4. If I needed grid interactive features this is what i'd go with as I don't need 18k level power. I love that it's dead quiet till over 6kW and a low idle consumption. Thanks for the review Gavin. Oh, can you clarify - can you run both a power pro and a bank of LLs rack batteries on one inverter via bus bar? Thanks.
Thanks! Yes you can run both. They’ll parallel and communicate together without an issue. I’ll try to show that in my next video on the 12kpv. They have the same BMS, so it works really well.
Great review. Tell EG4 I want an outdoor rated 6000XP next!
👀
@@thinde88 that is basically the 12kpv. It would cost that much with a 10 year warranty, and sealed for outdoor use. The cost would be close to or the same so not worth the build. Great idea though. The price point and features on the 6000xp is the why it is so awesome 😎
Great video! One question, your LL batteries are paralleled to the indoor power pro batteries on the bus bar on the indoor power pro? and communication as well I'm assuming?
Exactly. Technically they are using the exact same BMS. I’ll try to show that in a follow up video.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank You! I would appreciate it. I have 3 LL's and looking to purchase 1 indoor power pro , so I'm looking to do the same. Just want to make see how it's done before I pull the trigger. All Great videos, keep it up.
It would be an interesting comparison vs Deye, apparently egyll is a better option.
The LL’s and Pro batteries are a better option in my opinion. Yeah this is obviously cheaper than a Solark 8k. I wish I had one on the wall to test them side by side.
Another great video! Could you set it up 120/208 and check voltages on phase-to-phase and phase-to-neutral? We live on a condo (USA) we get 120/208 service from the grid.
208v? Wow
@@GavinStoneDIYhi, yes is oretty normal for condos and apartment complexes in the US. Could you set it to 120/208 and confirm if the voltages are in fact 120/208?
@@carlossantini sure. I’ll take a look this weekend if I get a chance.
This is a great sounding unit, and the price is a lot nicer than the 5k I am currently looking at. Hmmm, it might be changing my mind. Thanks for sharing, and as always, keep building 👍
It really just depends on how much power you need. The 18kpv does provide a lot more power when needed.
@GavinStoneDIY I used your affiliate link to order a 12k, I hope they give you a good kickback 👍
@@ToddLarsen man I really appreciate that. It’ll be neat to see you making content with this inverter!
@GavinStoneDIY cnc plasma table, 3d printers, water heater, and a whole lot more. Air conditioning in the back 40, lol
Thanks for review this.....well done!
Thanks! I had a good time on this one
great job as always thank you...would LOVE to see a comparison to the NHX-10K...that NHX seems to be holding up pretty well from what I read on the forum, and the price is really good too...
Yeah the NHX has a bit more output power. But it lacks an AC coupling option. This inverter is way easier to wire up because of the wiring compartment space. Plus it has better line balancing and surge specs. Although the NHX is still cheaper. It probably depends on what someone needs out of the inverter.
@@GavinStoneDIYI’d be eager to see the comparison too. I learned the hard way about line balancing on a 3k unit which couldn’t handle an 1800W microwave or coffee maker so am curious how the NHX fares here.
@@thedabbler2753 the NHX could handle just over it’s rated output on a single line. But not for too long. I do like the multiple MPPT options on the NHX. You could have 4 arrays in different areas with that inverter.
@@GavinStoneDIY the multiple MPPTs is a major sell for me. Lots of shading here so I have three strings on the go at present. ps. I know this probably isn't the thread but if you have any data on how the NHX does with house lights flickering, or inductive loads. Maybe a future video when the EG4 fun dies down a bit ;)
@@thedabbler2753 I’ll be honest. I wish I still had it. It was just a loaner for a review. I had zero flickering lights. And it did better than I anticipated on inductive loads. It wouldn’t have the lengthy surge time of a Lux inverter, but it can keep that steady 10kw rating.
Gavin, this is what I need. Do you think two 6000xp would be more powerful utilizing 16k worth of PV? Two 6000xp would still be cheaper but at the expense of bit more idle consumption. I am really having a hard time deciding although my application is off grid.
2-xp’s vs 2-12kpvs?
@@GavinStoneDIY I am not sure what your answer is, should I buy 2 6000xp or 1 12kpv?
@@ianstephenson650 ahhh ok. I was just asking if you were considering 2 of each. It really depends on how much power youll need. The 2 6000xp’s will output 12,000 watts. And you’ll be limited to 8,000watts with the 12kpv. So things like water wells or larger electric appliances have to be taken into account. The 12kpv wouldn’t be able to utilize the entire 16k of solar. So that’s another factor. And then redundancy is something to ponder also. If one of your XP’s goes down for some reason you’ll still have power. If the 12kpv drops then you’d be out of power unless you have another backup. There is something to be said for both really.
Good job on the video, as always! And congrats on passing 20k subscribers!
Thanks. It’s all uphill from here!
Look like you combi Server Rack Batteries and Wall Mount Indoor Battery. Next video can you show me the batteries connection + Inverter Communication (RJ45) Thank you.
I’ll try to add that yeah.
@@GavinStoneDIY Thank you. I ask that because I have 4 Server Rack Batteries on my 6000EX love to update to 18K inverter and add Wall Mount Indoor Battery later.
@@lucthien601 yeah I’m still using the 18k for the house off grid. Still working fantastic
Its well known that high frequency, transformerless inverter have a far shorter life expectancies when compared to low frequency, transformer based inverters. Search KZread or Google for the term. "EG4 problems" if you don't believe what I say.
Nice! Great video as always. 👏🏻
Thanks man
waoo!! nice well this will be my upgrade to my 6000xp if i decide to sell back to the grid. here in puerto rico the grid company is a mess thats why i have not considered to get a hybrid inverter. plus my 6000xp is working flawless 24/7 from day one. but got to say price range the 12k is a good option. like always excellent video my friend
Yeah if someone needed an inverter for net metering this would be a great option. It also has the grid features. Like you mentioned though, it’s hard to go wrong with a 6000xp for off grid uses.
Im' in PR too. Running 24/7 on one 6000xp and got a second in parallel about a month ago. I f you decide not to sell to the grid it would be better to get a second 6000xp. Luma / grid will continue to get worse as people keep connecting to it for solar.
Stop voting democrats in puerto rico
Very nice!
🙋🏻♂️
Affiliate links to the 12kpv signaturesolar.com/eg4-12kpv/?ref=mpmddlkx6M9tPo Current Connected link to the inverter www.currentconnected.com/product/eg4-12kpv-48v-hybrid-all-in-one-inverter/?ref=xhJJBPDS
13,000 Kw??? How many solar panels do you have???
30- 400watt panels. And 6-450 watt panels. So a bit over 14kw of solar.
What bus bars did you use?
I meant to add them to the description. I’ll put them there now. They are great little busbars from Current Connected.
Hello what's the maximum DC current on the label on the bottom of that inverter
It should be around 90-100 amps discharge current.
Does this produce its own power from solar? And use the battery on cloudy days or at night?
Yes. If you check the link I have in the comments or description you can look a the manual. It has some schematics in there to show how the inverter operates. Hopefully that helps.
So many issues. You're going to have surface tension in a heavy rain that will have water dripping behind your corrugated steel on the bottom part of the roof. You should have oriented the panels at the top so the connectors were at the bottom. The caulk is probably not the best way. Some sort of channel below for the vertical joints, and then some sort of overlapping sheet for the horizontal joins... raise the upper panel a few millimeters, and then get a thin sheet of steel.. then caulk that down.
It’s been over 2 years and I haven’t had issues with any of the items you mentioned. I do have some drip edge toy the bottom section if I ever wanted to install that. I just haven’t ever needed to. There is a nice rubber channel you can buy for between the solar panels now. So I’ll make a video about that eventually.
@@GavinStoneDIY The orientation is just to make it so you wouldn't have to try and route things around if you want to change things or do maintenance. The caulk may degrade with time because of UV light. some sort of flashing held down with the caulk or construction adhesive would like hold up longer. The failure isn't something that I would say would be imminent... it could be 5-8 years from install. With a flashing, it could last 20-25 years.
@@dus10dnd yeah when I installed the panels I realize the caulking may not be the best solution. I mentioned that in the video. But it is a UV resistant. So we’ll see how long it lasts. If I had to do it over I would use the rubber rolls designed for waterproofing panels. But at the time they weren’t selling them. I wouldn’t use a flashing on top. That would look terrible. Plus you’d still be relying on an adhesive or caulking to achieve that waterproofing.
The #3 wire that you installed to the PE bar, where did that came from? Ground on main breaker or earthing rod?
It came from my ground at the main panel. All of my grounds can be traced back to my main panel and grounding rods.
I love you. This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped!
On my system, i have the battery setting as a user, and it will not charge more than 20%. Should i have it set to lead acid, even though i have Lifpo 4? Thanks for sharing, and as always, keep building 👍
Unless you have communication set up, with voltronic units like yours you’d want to set it to user. Just make sure your voltage settings are still correct. That might be why it’s only charging to a lower amount. It almost sounds like it’s set to 48v bulk charge.
My solar arrays have solar array envy. I just realized that you have a channel as well, so I subbed right away. It's great to hear about your 18k unit kicking butt and taking names. We will have one soon, and I'm excited to kick these gremlins to the curb. They have been driving me nuts lately. Thanks for sharing, and as always, keep building 👍
Yeah I can’t wait to hear about your install. Feel free to email me if you’ve got any questions when you’re getting it set up.
they only last about 14 years and then you have to do again---pretty stupid hey
It would take me about a day to fully replace this. And panels are still very cheap. Makes complete sense to me.
Gavin Stone, you haven't done any AC coupling with that inverter? what is the set up for the AC coupling with this inverter?
The generator port is meant for smart loads and AC coupling.
After 2 Months are you still running it? How's it doing? I'd like to install solar this year, but want to be grid tied but not back feed the grid. Really just want to be able to use what I produce and grid back up or if I was to go over the 10K rating while grid is connected have grid make up the difference I don't think I would pull much more than that often.
I ran the unit for around 3 weeks or so. But I don’t still have it on my wall no. Adam Delay did release some reviews videos on this inverter as well. Im not sure how well it does on zero export. I haven’t seen anyone post any readings on that yet.
Thanks yes I've see Adam's channel as well subscribed to both yours and his enjoy the content.
Very helpful! Appreciate your explanations!
Glad to help. Thanks for watching
How did you cut the unistrut? Grinder?
I used a chop saw. But some of the slanted cuts I used a grinder yeah.
I have an 100amp panel with peak load of 18kw
If you’re supplying a sub panel from the grid That’s a different story. But you mentioned the inverter. Those output 25 amps. Which Doesn’t require anything near that big. How many inverters are you installing?
Hi, I appreciate your videos. I have a planned 100amp panel with 3 or 4 gauge. You fit 6 but I wondered if thats the max size? Or would a lug adapter work?
8 awg will work. 6 awg is actually a bit overkill for this inverter. I don’t believe 4 awg would fit in the terminals.
Thanks for your reply. Would a ferrule reducer 3 to 6work?@@GavinStoneDIY
@@davidbruce5377 possibly. But why use 4 awg? The units output 25 amps. Even with the bypass power being 50 amps 8 awg would still work.
Working on my system right now. I think I have it all figure it out except for ground and Neutral bonding from the main panel. My manin panel does not have a ground, how should I wire it then?
How old is your home? They may have it grounded in a separate panel outside.
@@GavinStoneDIY the ground and neutral is bonded in the panel. Should I run separate ground from the outside to the 6000XP?
@@lukimy2704 it’s supposed to be bonded at the main panel. From there you’d run a ground and neutral conductor separately to the inverter.
@@GavinStoneDIY I just don’t understand what is the point of running two separate wires if ground and neutral share the same bus bar?
@@lukimy2704 they shouldn’t be on the same bar. They should have separate bars. Typically they will just be bonded with a green screw in the main panel. And that should be the only location there is a bond in the system. After that they remain separate. There is a lot of articles on the subject if you want to delve deeper. The neutral is technically a current carrying conductor. And the ground is not.
Thanks for the video! So you don’t need a neutral and a ground from the main panel to the critical loads panel at all? The line power coming from main to inverter covers that? Thanks again
Assuming you are wiring it into a critical loads panel like I did, that is correct. Each individual circuit you are transferring from the main doesn’t need the ground and neutral. The main bypass wire will provide the proper gauge ground and neutral to supply the critical loads panel.
Yes sir. I’m wiring mine the same as yours. Excited to get started on this project. Folks like you putting these videos out make it more doable for the rest of us.
My inverter is in a different room than my panels. What do you think about running the line to inverter from main and load to sub panel through the same conduit? Is this a no no?
How big is your battery system?
A little over 1700ah of batteries.
What are the detailed mounting location ratings for these indoor batteries. Does inside in a pole barn in south Texas meet the requirements or is the outdoor rated battery required in this situation.
I haven’t studied into that section in the manual. Personally I think if the space isn’t conditioned, just to be cautious I would probably get the outdoor rated version. More for the humidity aspect than anything. But I may be wrong on that.