Hi, my name is Jim Neeb and I have been a hobby woodworker and general builder of anything for 40 years. I have recently retired from a 30 year engineering career and am now dedicated to playing around in the shop full time.
This channel contains some of the woodworking, woodworking tool, and CNC projects I have been working on in an attempt to give back ideas to the KZread community which has given me a lot of great ideas over the years.
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Excellent video Jim, love your work. Are your Post Processors Imperial only or will they work with Metric as well?
They are all imperial, however, they are easy to change. Just open them up with a text editor, and change the g20 to g21, and the g70 to g71, the the UNITS to mm. Keep in mind my post processors are specific to the ESS controller (thats what the AVID machines use).
@@JNWoodworks Thanks Jim. I have an AVID machine. I had an old OPT laser that I never could get working well, but inspired by the great work you have done with Warp9 I have an XT8 being delivered today.
Awsome video. Can you sheer test file Gcode? Or maybe you can re-cap in excel table as cheat sheet?
I put the cutting focus and cut speed files for Vcarve here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bFFuwe7_nSRBT_EkUmhy22EmvVILATkX?usp=sharing I also put some Gcode files in there that will work for an AVID machine, or anything that uses and ESS controller.
great video...Do you know if I could export from VCARVE and then open/burn on my stand-alone laser (CO2)?
I'm not too familiar with the software thats typcially used on the CO2 lasers. How do you normally burn vector files with that? Vectric can export as DXF, SVG, or PDF.
@@JNWoodworks Question is if when I use this sketch feature, can I then export as a .dxf or SVG. Not sure if VCARVE simulates these vectors for use ONLY in the tool path creation or if it indeed creates the vectors and can be exported for use or editing. Any help would be appreciated and thanks for the quick reply.
@@dankinsky9543 Ah, I got you. I loaded up that file and took a closer look. It does not seem to ever create a vector file, just some kind of internal format that it temporarity displays. You can run a simulation on it and save that as a bmp, jpeg, etc., but I don't see a way to save it as a vector format in any way. That would be a good feature to ask for. You could load the jpeg or bmp and raster burn it I'm sure, but that may not have as good of resolution. I personally like to burn vectors unless I'm doing detailed pictures. That makes me ask (because I have no idea), does the software on most CO2 lasers allow you to load in some kind of Gcode files? If so, then a Vectric post processor could be made that would work for this.
@@jimneeb2362 Thanbks for confirming that part! Would have been ideal if it could export the vectors though!
@@dankinsky9543 I agree. That would be a good thing to ask Vectric for on the next release. Does your machine allow loading any kind of Gcode files? If so, I could help you make a post processor that might work.
Great info in this video. Thank you. You mentioned 3d carving in the beginning. I have a different issue than vibrations, mine is the screen toolpath preview not showing for large 3d toolpaths and the program crashing and shutting down. I have a i7 12700 cpu with UHD770 integrated graphics and 64gig of DDR5 ram. It only happens on toolpath gcode files larger than about 100mb. Smaller than that and the previews look great. Any thoughts on what the problem could be? Thanks!
Thats a good question. I went back and looked at all my carves and the biggest file was 28MB, so you are doing some really large ones :-) However, I know people that have done some really big ones and I haven't heard of a file size limit. A great place to ask that question would be in the AVID User Group on FB page (I'm assuming you are using Mach4?). That seems to be plenty of computer. I just checked on the Artsoft forum and there was a coment that the screen toolpath display is very resource intensive so for very large files you may need to turn off the toolpath display to handle that large of a file.
Here in the outside world we went metric and bits in incremental 0.1 mm steps are commonplace and easy to obtain from sources all over the globe. We used to use the imperial system here in UK but things are much simpler using the metric system. 0.1 mm is plenty accurate for woodworking and for most metalworking too.
Back in the 70s when I was growing up there was a pretty good movement to switch over to metric. One of the few useful things our government could have done is push that conversion along, but like always, they got distracted with other things that were more expensive and wasteful of taxpayer dollars and totally forgot about converting to metric. So in the US we have to know both systems, becaus about half of the stuff we have is metric, and half is imperial. I really don't buy the arguement that metric is easier, both systems are just arbitrary units and you have to learn what they mean and get good at estimating the size of each. The main reason I wish we would convert though is because I would't have to take out two sets of wrenches to work on something, and I could converse with other people around the world in the same units.
Thanks because of your review im verry interested now.
Great video and instruction, thanks. I have been highlighting vcarvings by running the laser along the vcarve toolpath. I allow the laser to move in the z axis to try and keep the focus. Thanks to your post processor. I am always learning from you.
Thats brilliant! When I was testing those post processors I ran it on a Vcarve toolpath for kicks and I thought it was sorta cool, but couldn't really think of a good use for it. Thats the cool thing about the KZread channel, I put stuff out there and get some really good ideas back on the comments. I'm gonna have to try it, but that makes sense, if you use the one "With Z" it should track the laser all the way up the corners and everything. I bet that would look really good on light wood.
Thanks for another great video Jim. My XT8 shipped yesterday, can't wait to give it a go.
You're welcome and happy cutting with your new laser!
Thanks for making the video I’ll have to try it out Was wondering what size air compressor you using for the air assist on the opt laser? I’m using a shopsabre 23 not avid, I have use laser module and laser post processor from shopsabre without and problem I’m assuming I can use that same laser post processor to do what you did in this video
My air system is a little bit overkill for just air assist 🙂 kzread.info/dash/bejne/rHipk5Kho5DSpco.html I can't say for sure, but I would guess you can start with the post processor I wrote, but would probably have to make some modifications. My modifications to convert spindle RPM to laser power, and to add the laser on/off commands to feed moves and rapid moves would be the same, but I would guess that the actual laser commands themselves between the ESS controller I have and the shopsabre are probably different. However, if you send me your laser post processor from the shop sabre, I might be able to figure it out for ya. [email protected]
I learn something new each time I watch one of our new videos Jim. Great work.
So no air compressor needed? Looks good waiting for a good atc to come out with the avid.
Correct, no special spindle, no air or solenoids, etc. No big racks or tool holders. Really nice for smaller machines, hobbyists, or people who don't have the money for a full blown ATC, or can't get an ATC spindle on their machine. Honestly though, I think this would work fine for a production shop on a big machine too.
@@JNWoodworks Good to see more options coming to ATC
Do you know if there is a way to laser using the image created from the new sketch carving toolpath?
Well that is an interesting question, I totally forgot about that toolpath. I have not actually tried it yet with anything. So I just did a quick experiment. That toolpath lets you use a few different tools, but not an end mill. I chose an engrave bit, set the angle to 1 degree (thats as small as it would let me), and set the bits flat tip diameter to 0.007", and then generated the image in the simulation and it looked good. So I'm sure it can be done. Thanks for the idea, I may do a quick video on that!
It’s to bad they don’t give the option for laser would allow you to do even more things than just tracing a bitmap and doing outlines
I was doing the sketch carve on a family photo and the toolpath preview looks good but there’s no way to make vectors to laser from that other than saving preview image and import bitmap and trace and never looks as good
I'm burning an image right now. So far so good....I'll post a video tonight.
Ok thanks you make some of the most detailed videos I have both versions of the 6 watt opt laser bought because of your videos
Thank you for this. I just finished wiring, mounting the XT-8, and building my new modular laser bed for my existing CNC bed. I have Aspire and know how to use it well with my spindle. I have know idea how to use the laser. Opt Laser does a poor job of providing instructions. Or if they have instructions, they need to show where to find instructions for a first-time laser user. I couldn't see the page when you showed us how to add the laser as a CNC bit. Would it be possible to show how to change and modify to a laser on the add bit page? I have a UCNCC 400ETH and a Gecko 540. Can I use your custom post-processor, or is it only for Maach4? Sorry for so many questions and requests; I want to start. I purchased my Opt Laser to complement and add capabilities/features to my Woodworking business. I often watch your videos; I built a raised honeycomb bed after noticing yours was raised. I'm curious what you think about the bed I built and whether it was worth it or overkill. If you tell me where to send photos to you, I can show you some pictures. My email is [email protected] if you wish to chat in private
Hi Steven, You can contact me at [email protected]. I can send you a video clip or description on how to create a new tool in aspire for the laser, and yes I'd love to see your honeycomb table top. I'm not very familiar with the UCNCC controllers, but I would imagine the post processor would need some adjustment because the commands are likely a little different. However, I can send you a link to the right place to ask :-)
I just figured out why my computer didn't record the pop-up windows for the tool creation. I just did a new video on how to use a laser with the new sketch carve tool path and show how to create the laser tools in there too.
@@JNWoodworks Awesome, thank you! I sent you a brief video via a Dropbox link to demonstrate how and why I made the Laser Honeycomb Top. I could improve in front of a camera, but the information is there.
This is why I went to light burn no stopping and starting just a constant speed
Yes, Lightburn can do rastering correctly. Unfortunately Lightburn doesn't work on too many CNC controllers, mostly just Grbl based arduino ones, so I can't use it. However, fortunately, the ESS controller has a great rastering capability built in, so no extra software needed for that on an AVID cnc.
Great video Jim! What about Exact Stop or Constant Velocity in Mach4? Maybe you mentioned it and I missed it. Max from Argentina
Funny you should mention that. I was just playing with CV mode a few days ago trying to fine tune it because I found that on certain types of shapes (ovals especially, because Vectric creates an oval with many small segments of straight lines) I got more jerky motion. Mach4 has a few different CV tuner wizards, and I was hoping to find one that made the toolpath run smoother. In the end, I got the best laser performance (the best quality laser line) with exact stop mode, so that is now what I set my machine to. As far as the Vectric Laser Picture Toolpath, that is not going to be improved by CV mode, because it is really limited by the fact that its running as Gcode and not real rastering.
Can you still use the auto z touch plate and corner finder for finding the xy of your project when this system is on our is it always fixed now?
ya, i can lift it out of the pocket in the spoilboard and use it on the workpeice. Its not bolted down. So I will toolset one tool, then move it over to the workpeice to set work coordinates, and then put it back and run the whole Gcode program and it will do all the remaining toolsets as it changes bits.
why dont you put theauto z touch plate a lot closer? Like right next to it. Makes the whole operations always a bit faster. Thanks for the vid and cheers
That was the location I was already storing my touchplate. I have grooves milled into my spoilboard so it has a precise location to sit in, so I just programmed those coordinates for the tool setter. You are correct, if you were setting it all up fresh, you'd want it closer to the magazine.
Thank you very much for all this information. You have a new subscriber :)
Jim when cutting do you start at 21mm Z height? Also is there a way to step down in Z after each pass?
Hi Brian, I had the Z height set so the focal point was right on the top surface of the material. The XT8 nozzle doesn't allow much room for lowering the Z height because it only has a few mm between the nozzle and focal point, so I didn't bother dropping it down. I haven't done a lot of experements with this, but I haven't noticed a huge benefit to dropping the focal point for each pass, but it does seem logical that it would help. As far as how to step Z down, the Vectric laser module doesn't have that feature (I've been asking for it for over 3 years). What you can do is use a special post processor that allows you to use the profile toolpath and a "laser end mill" tool to do that. In fact, if you do that, you don't even need the laser module at all. I have been wanting to do a video on that for a long time, but just haven't gotten around to it yet.
@@JNWoodworks Yes I do remember before the laser module we would add a dummy end mill as the laser tool. Well I look forward to that future video.
Another informative OPT laser video Jim. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome video, as always. Much appreciated!
Hi when are you doing the full review of the PLH3D-XT8
I was hoping to have done it by now but have been busy. I will have a video out with cutting tests.
6:24 @Jim, how did you connect your laser touch off rod to chassis ground? I just checked on mine today and there’s no continuity. Did you just connect a wire from some metal part of the laser to some metal part of the CNC gantry or something? Is there any safety issue either isolating or grounding the laser to the chassis?
Hi Ryan, The laser rod clamps are bolted tot he universal adapter plate (there are a couple of convenient tapped holes there already), and all the rest of the laser mounting hardware is metal so it all conducts through to the Z stage which is chassis grounded several ways, the best being the spindle wiring. So all I have to do is attach the magnet wire from the touchplate somewhere on the machine's chassis (i like the rotary unit because its got lots of steel) and then the laser touch rod or the spindle will trip the touch plate. I plan on added a 3D probe soon, and I will probably just wire the touchplate ground to chassis so that I don't have to drag the magnet and wire for it around.
Great job on the reviews on the ATC. We had them on my show when I found out about the product and am really impressed. We will be talking about your videos tonight
Thanks. I just checked out you channel and you have an amazing variety of topics!
XL CNC, I think in South Africa, is helping to develop the RapidChange ATC Sidewinder, has a dust shoe loading and unloading station for his CNC.
Is that the one that did a video on one that was made out of plywood? I am thinking about something along those lines.
@@JNWoodworks Yes, it is made out of plywood.
Thanks for the great-and thorough-review. So, other than buying the unit, are there any other purchase you need?
You may need a few more collets and nuts so you can load it up. And then maybe a relay and wire (depending on what CNC you have) to get your spindle to run in both directions.
@@JNWoodworks thanks. I have an Avid Pro with their 4h spindle. Do you know if this setup needs a relay and wire?
@@Richard-yr5zjyes, that's the one I have. I added a link in the description section to my Google drive with the instructions.
Jim, I have a 1/2 collet that was very loose and caused the bit to drop out , so I used an automatic center punch and punched the collet a couple times at the grove that holds the collet in the nut and that tighten it up enough to keep the bit from dropping out.
I was a little worried about doing anything that creates a bump on the surface of the collet. That can cause bits to break, or the collet to not get tight enough.
Yeah, that's a very bad idea...
Watched the end. Thanks. No need to reply.
Do you have a video on the plus and minus of the dust boot? Thanks for this video.
Yes I do: kzread.info/dash/bejne/oIlr18trl7LSdLQ.htmlsi=bTuk7JGv9lj-BGck
Great review series.
Many thanks for this input
Thanks Jim, great summary?
During the cutting of the dove tails, I noticed that you had that orange and blue air nozzle. Were you blowing air during that cut? Does that help evacuate the wood chips?
yes, I almost always use the air nozzle with the spindle. It keeps the chips from packing in on deep grooves, but in general it helps get the chips up in the air so the dust collector can suck them up better.
Jim, I can't thank you enough for this tutorial (and the others). You have been a sanity saver for me to say the least. I'm a long time Mach3 user who added an Optlaser like you did. I found that M3 just wasn't good enough for what I wanted so I upgraded. WOW, the learning curve has been steep. Nothing is really the same, as they point out. the most frustrating thing is that my laser is working just fine in Mach3 so why can't I make it work in Mach4. I have Mach4 working a mill, but the laser addition is a lot of mystery. Hours and hours of reading and research and I've made some progress. Then i found you. Even though I'm not using the Avid version of Mach, I now have a good understanding of what I was missing. Your attention to detail has really helped me. Thanks so very much.
You are welcome Jim. If you have an ESS controller in your machine then you should be able to use the documentation I have on my Google drive. Email me if you have any questions. [email protected]
Thanks!
Thank you!
I am running vcarve pro and laser plugin. I cannot get the jtech or avid to put the m67 e1 q??? 0-100 in the gcode. How did you get yours in there. My laser wont fire unless i have the m67 e1 g 0-100 code in it.
Hello, the post processor for Vcarve is what puts those commands in there. The standard post processor from them probalby doesn't have the correct code. However, I have one that I wrote that works, as well as some other laser setup documentation for Mach4 and ESS. You can find them here: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1xB6J0RZIU1j8g951NkP-8HXC1swC2C-B?usp=drive_link If yo have any futher questions, feel free to send me an email at [email protected]
@@JNWoodworks Will look at those files. Thank you.
Good to know! One more possible use for this beast.
Jim, very cool concept here! I realize this proof of concept may largely be for those without a spindle - but if you have both, you gave me an idea to combine both: burned looks awesome as a background, and then use the spindle for main shape, then laser again for deepest details. Like in your photoshop-esque program remove all detail lighter than shade x, just to capture the best shadows. Then burn that in on top of the spindle shape, to give bit more 3D effect/depth. Anyway, I love your content, thanks for opening so many concepts up to me and so many here. 👍🙏👏
I can't wait to see your video on it 🙂
Man the sound that took changer makes while loosening and tightening makes me cringe every time! It’s pretty cool though just scary sounding
You should have heard it at 6000 rpm then 🙂
Thank you for your videos on this product. Very helpful! Great information. I have a question about dust collection/boot. How does that work with this system please? Do you need a specific boot in order for this to work. Thanks again!
I don't currently have a dust boot that will work with this ATC. This is a problem area for most ATC's. I am planning on designing and building one that will work with this in the future.
Hello, I’ve been investigating this issue with my own machine similar to yours. People seem to forget that the that these machines are sitting on six 1/2 inch pins to the floor. There has to be movement there. I’m considering bracing to the floor or setting up blocking to strengthen that section. Just a thought.
Hi Bill, Well, those pins aren't meant to stop the machine from moving. The stiffness comes from the frame, not the connecting to ground. However, in the end most of us that worked on the frame only got moderate results because in the end, if your motor movements are too agressive, any machine will flex and have vibrations. I got much better results by adjusting my accelleration settings. See this video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qadoyNx-fpydcrg.html
Hi, when I look at mine which is similar to yours, even if I completely stiffen the frame, I am still left with those 6 adjustment feet flexing back and forth in the threaded piece of aluminium bolted to the bottom of the aluminium legs. I suppose if I screw them all in as far as I can and still have a level machine it should reduce the bending moment on the adjustment studs. I will certainly take the strategies you have worked out and employ them into my build. Thanks for taking the time to create the video and getting back to me regarding my comment. Regards.
@@billjohnson7834 You probably do have some movement those feet, and reducing it will help some. I never really thought about it much at first, but I was trying to reduce the movement of the table, but after working on this for a while, I realized that the table movement itself doesn't affect the cut quality, its the relative movement between the spindle (or laser head) and the workpiece. So I did get some reduction in table movement in the stiffening I did in this video, which at least was nice to keep the table from shaking itself apart, but I still had chatter in my router cuts and squiggles in my laser lines. This was due to flexing everywhere else in the system, like the gantry, linear rails and stuff. I couldn't reduce any of that mechanically, but dialing down the motor accellerations really is where my cut quality improved.
@@JNWoodworks Interesting, I can see having that type of vibration from my helical rack feeding back into the system. I would think that lasers would show that vibration the most as compared to a router cut. On smaller machines, ball screws should eliminate that.
@@billjohnson7834 There are low level vibrations on my machine from the belts and the gears, but until I adjusted the acceleration settings (AVID CNC sets them aggressive by default) the most prominent ones were from acceleration during moves. You are right, the laser is a perfect way to see that, in direction, amplitude, and frequency. Once I started looking at my laser traces is where I started understanding what is going on. I now still have a periodic vibration due to either the racks or belts (can't tell which because they have the same tooth pitch). I probably won't be able to do much about that.
Thanks for your testing with this system. My hope is that they keep expanding compatibility and reliability, without selling out to some industry giant that will jack the price way up or take it off market due to having a competing product. On the subject of collets.. Chinese collets suck. Even if you check runout at the top of the shank, concentricity at the tip is often terrible. Maritool is a good middle ground between China and Lyndex for example. They are more expensive, but they are more accurate, help tools last longer, and come in all sorts of metric and standard sizes. I think half mm increments too on the metric side to fit whatever oddball tooling you have. As you know, you want a slip fit which will occur when you use a 1/2 collet with a 1/2 tool, where the tool goes in without a fight, but where it doesn't slide out. Not just for the tool changer, but for tool life, collet longevity, and accuracy too. EDIT - *tool not bit You don't use bits, you use tools. You use bits in your screwdriver. You load a drill into your collets, not a bit. Sorry. Pet peeve that was drilled into my head by an old wiley bastard of a machinist / shop owner. Hope no offense is taken. Lol😅
I agree, I think this ATC fits a part of the market that isn't served will by the traditional ATC, and I think there is easily room for both in the market. Thanks for the tip, i will take a look at Maritool. I have been using collets that AVID sells (and I don't remember what brand they are), and a few Techniks (which are made in Taiwan). Both have had good runout measurements and hold the "tools" 😉just fine. My only complaint is some are just on the loose side when the nut has not been tightened, which is just annoying for manual loading (I hate it when you loosen it and your router bit ends up on the floor), but very important for this ATC.
Hey Jim, not sure if you have said this in the past videos, does adding this take up one of your axes for the dust cover? I would hope it's more of just a trigger on/off type thing. Thanks for the great videos. Including the OPT laser videos. I got the XT-50 just before the XT8 was announced, maybe someday I'll upgrade.
They are steppers so you can connect directly to them with one of your controller axis if you want, but they also supply a stepper driver and a little micro controller board, so you can just use a regular output to trigger the lid, and an input for the IR sensor, which is what I did.
Perfect timing I just got my xt8 jus waiting on my air assist to come in. Can’t wait to do some cutting
I know this is a few years old, but for anyone trying this. There is a Steps Per Unit calculator in the Mach4 Wizard menu (StepsPerUnitCalculatorBasic). Pretty intuitive. Select motor, input move distance, and velocity, click move and it does the calculations for you. Then you take the result and input in the Motor calibration Counts Per Unit.
Hi Jim, great video on this ATC. Departing if you’ve already answered this, but if say I often use more than 6 different end mills, might you get a second one of these ATC’s to set up in series end to end with the first one? Or is it easy to just slip out an end mill not in use for the current project and slip in a different endmill - idea being for any one operation, keep it to 6 different end mills, killer!
Hi Ryan, good question. Most people with the traditional ATC have a lot more positions so they typically have their whole portfolio of bits loaded, probably because they are a bit of a pain to change out. This one is much quicker since you can just open the lid and pull out the collet/nut/bit and pop in a new one. So for me I think I will just keep the 6 or so bits that I use most loaded in there, and then when I need to change out for a less popular bit, i'll do it for that job. However, if you want more bits, they make an 8 pocket version, and then there is no reason that there couldn't be 2 or more of these in use. You could just wire the lid and sensor in parallel so you don't need to use more inputs and outputs. They would have to modify the macros a little to allow for multiples, but their software guy is very good so I'm sure if they think there would be more people wanting to put multiple units on thier machine that they would add that to their SW.
They produce also a 12 position ATC...check their site
@@IceCreams62 That is only the basic one, isn't it? I don't see the premium with lid and IR sensor above 8 socket.
@@JNWoodworks Yes, but i think they can produce a premium one on request
@@IceCreams62 true, probably only limited by how wide they can make the lid work and how far the IR sensor will work.
Hi Jim. That was a very nicely done video, as usual. I'm wondering, on your issue with bits slipping out of the collets you could make some spacers out of plastic or even wood that you could drop down into the holes in the magazine for the bits to bottom out on? With the spacers being plastic or wood the bits would not get damaged. I would imagine that it would be a pain to make a selection of spacers to work for the different bit lengths. Thanks again for the video, Randy.
Hey, that is a really good idea. I think some simple foam cylinders that you could just cut off with a knife and drop in there might not be too bad of a process. I'm going to look into that and see if it works. Look for it on my next video, and thanks for the suggestion!
You Can use heat shrink behind the endmill. I do this on smaller endmill 3, 4 and 5 :)
That way the bit is not falling out. :)
Try an o-ring, scotch tape, or a dab of super glue on the back of the end mill .
@@flakeatYes, if you have some extra shank you can do that, or if you have the cutout collets you can do that on some bits. I don't have any bits that long since they aren't typically made to stick out the top of the collet.
Awesome. They are sending me one as well and looking forward to getting it on this big 8.7HP
Cool, I think you'll like it. I just checked out your channel. Good stuff 😀
@@JNWoodworks Thanks
I purchased a 12 x 12 honeycomb and it came with a stainless backing sheet so I aluminum taped the sheet to the bottom cut a hole on the side for the wet and dry vacuum and use it on my 10w laser engraver . I also use parchment paper to seal the open areas but my leather and wood is usually 12 x 12 anyways , theres no need to elevate the honeycomb from the table ! I have around $20 for the honeycomb $5 aluminum tape and maybe $1 for the parchment paper . It holds my leather and wood and acrylic down great and even !
Ya, its especially good for cutting things like leather, paper, cloth, etc. The air nozzle on the laser tends to blow those things out of position with no hold down, and you can't get enough magnets on them to keep it all flat, but the vacuum works great.
Thanks for a great video! Trying to decide between this drill press and the Delta 1800. Thoughts?
Hi, Are you talking about the Delta 18-900L model? I couldn't find an 1800 model. The 18-900L speed is all controlled by belt, so thats not very convenient if you change speeds a lot. Delta used to sell a model with a variable speed drive but it doesn't look like they do anymore (I had one about 20 years ago). The Delta is definitely cheaper, and has that forward adjustable angle on the table which might be nice, but for me, I like the easy variable speed. My last 3 drillpresses were easy to change speed on, and for me that is a must have feature...but everyone's use case is a little different. The powermatic also is 1HP vs the delta at 3/4. I think the delta is a tier down from a feature standpoint, but it is also from a cost standpoint, so its probalby the same value, just a matter of the size and features you want.