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My name is Justin Laurens, I'm the mildly eccentric and overly caffeinated creator of the best-selling course: JL Portrait Retouching Tutorial.
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On this channel, you'll find weekly Photo Editing Tutorials, Camera/Shooting Tips and Social Media Strategy videos.
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Let's create something awesome, together!
@justinlaurens
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How does adjusting the size make the quality better ??
Thanks sir ❤❤
Cool 😎
Thanks for the video. I have three inexpensive primes for my Nikon Z5 by Viltrox I like a lot: 20mm 40mm 85mm I have Nikon zoom lenses but don’t use them much because they are too heavy for my arthritis. Looking at the Vil 50mm to fill that out, can’t see a need for their 16mm. Regards
Thanks for sharing!
Yeap, those are my 2 fav focal length too since I'm doing portraits and weddings. But I cannot live without 35mm thought I don't really have any emotional attachement to it like I did with 50 and 85.
Hey yeah I think adding the 35mm would really make my lens collection complete! The trifecta 📸
@@justinlaurens Or, the "Holy Trinity primes" that I've read somewhere. 😉
I've noted that most of your shots involve posed situations. ie you have time to get things right. Not so for travel and 'grab' shots. I've found zooms better for that. Your argument against zoom lens are also spurious. 1. F1.4 to get Bokeh. Bokeh also increases with focal length. There are plenty of video presentations with sample photos showing how bokeh depends on f-stop, sensor size and lens focal length. Some show matching photos using different lenses and settings. ie F1.4 is not the only way to get bokeh. Also many lenses are at their worst fully open. Most are best a couple of stops or more closed down. Funnily some of the the newest zooms can be best at just one down! Finally the need for a f1.4 lens for focusing is becoming mute with mirrorless bodies and highly improved auto-focus systems. 2. F1.4 for low light. Noise at high ISO has greatly improved. Using an F1.4 setting with ISO 100 v say F5.6 with higher ISO? The sharpness you lost at fully open F1.4 v higher iso becomes debatable. 3. Primes are sharper. By definition this is correct. But the practical reality is changing. Just look at samples and reviews from Canon's R24-240 and R100-400. Canon cameras are also programmed to correct distortion etc in the camera. So the difference is slowly narrowing and disappearing. Also if you have to crop your prime lens image, you may lose a lot of pixels. Loss of image quality. Not so with a zoom. You can fill your screen and reduce post cropping to a minimum / little no loss of pixels. You can even take a set of images very quickly at different focal lengths and decide later. 4. Primes are inexpensive and lightweight in comparison. Hmm . . ten years ago that was contestable. Now it's just no longer true. Quality f1.4 primes costs way more. Say $USD1,000-2,000. The two Canon R series zooms above. Under $USD800 each. Tamron and Sigma? Similar story. Now the weight: Those cannon zooms are 745 grams and 635 grams. An F1.4 50mm - say 250grams. But here's the rub. The 24-240 can be permanently fixed to the camera. No extra weight for extra lenses! The couple of hundred gram differences becomes mute. That's the same as having had a big lunch OR having bought a heavy camera body. Go to a new mirrorless and you'll will save a few hundred grams on the body weight AND the lens. With identical specs, a mirrorless can be made much lighter. 5. Prime lenses encourage you to move around etc. That's great if you are shooting subject matter with the time available. No so with lots of subject matter. It's the quick or missed. Regardless you can still (and should) move around with a zoom when you can for the very same reasons. But the zoom has an added benefit - you can try different zoom settings in seconds. You can take multiple shots at different zoom settings rather than having to crop and lose pixels. Also you can zoom in for a focus and light setting on the important part and then zoom out with that setting held! In seconds! 6. Primes make you a more creative photographer. Simple rubbish. Just look at some great creative photos taken with phone cameras. There's far more to being creative than equipment. Far more. Just look at major movies. These days pretty much done on zoom lenses. 7. Second lens an 85mm. Great lens. I can do 24-240 all in one HIGH QUALITY lens at a LOW price. The game has changed. You've also cut yourself out of any photos which would be best done at 100mm or more. 8. Sharpness. Too sharp can make photos very clinical and lose all feeling. Hence the use of soft focus filters and soft focus editing! 9. FF v APS-C. How about a FF 24-240 zoom which works with both? It used to be an expensive option. No so anymore with mirrorless. 10. 24-70mm zoom Excellent lens. If you are happy with max 70mm. 11. For those who post online. All that cutting edge perfection just gets lost. Pixels disappear on posting (max size etc) and screen pixel count can reduce it further. I've used primes and zooms for decades. My choices have been based on what I shoot and not on the technical perfectness of either. Not once has someone looked at my shots and said, "Oh, that was shot with a prime. Good choice." or "That was taken with a zoom. Why?" Not once. I did comparison shots between my then 10 year old Tamron zoom and a cheap Canon 50mm prime. The Tamron set at 50mm won. People look at a photo and either liked it or not no matter what lens I used. The average person can't tell technical differences. They choose what they like - not what was used to shoot it. They like / love shots taken on a range of equipment. There is far more to a great shot than presumed pixel peeping technical perfection. There is far more to it than FF v APS-C. There is far more to it than the MP of the sensor. You can have great equipment and bad shots. You can have basic equipment (eg phone) and get excellent shots. You can STILL get excellent shots with an old Kodak box film camera (if you respect its limitations.) So please, don't tell me primes are always better than zooms. That's never been an absolute truth. Same for same a prime should be technically better than a zoom. But a good zoom will always be better than a cheap prime. On price, a single high quality zoom will be cheaper than a set of primes. The technical quality difference is the only difference and that's shrinking. All the other factors will decide which is best in a given situation. Now what you have chosen may suit you. That's great. If that applied to everyone, then why are there so many different primes and zooms in the marketplace? If people didn't buy them and didn't like them, they just would not be made. Years ago purist argued than manual shift cars were better than auto shifts. How's that argument looking today? It now only holds true in a limited number of situations. For the majority, auto is now better. And electric cars don't even have gear shifts! The electric cars can beat any comparable fuel car on performance. In fact the fastest drag car is an electric one. The only difference is price. For high usage, hybrids and electrics pay for themselves. Just ask a taxi owner. Just look at what they are buying. It's a horses for courses situation. The old simplistic chestnut arguments from 30 years ago were debatable back then. Now they simply no longer apply to so many situations.
This was really helpful! Thanks, Justin
Will they work good for men also ???
Although you explained very well but still I am not able to implement these correctly , I am unable to figure out which color should I saturate more , when I increase saturation skin becomes yellowish , skin tone does not remains natural , I am not able to figure out when to use complementary scheme in my editing when when to use analogous scheme , 1 thing I am able to figure out is that you are great photo editor and by following your videos and watching them again & again and practicing with patience 1 day I will also improve
In my case I will use the RF135 F1.8 for portrait only and prefer that lens over the 85mm. 50mm is not for me, I never used that focal length
I like the 50mm and 90mm primes. To save money I decided that F 1.8 to F 2.8 is enough.
This was definitely a dope video I enjoyed it
This is a well thought out video, and the examples used to support the points made are just excellent! Also, just an excellent production! Had to Subscribe.
that would be very easy to work with only 2 lenses, I had fun
What if I have budget constraint, therefore I want to choose between the 50 or 85, which one should I go with? Pls advise. TIA
50mm
@@justinlaurens Thank you
Excellent video. I have replaced skys in the past but but have just given me a couple of very good tips that will definitely help make my skys look more realistic.
Glad it was helpful!
Simple and right to the point
🔥
Can you do this in lightroom nowadays?
Yes I teach it in my new course: go.justinlaurens.com/portraitstransform
Intersting choice. Almost every pro I've talked to or read advice from on all the photography forums, don't pair 50mm and 85mm lenses. They usually pair 24mm and 50mm together. If it works for you, then it's the right choice.
50 & 85 are far enough in focal length to make a big difference. Anything below 35mm is a bit too wide for my liking (you lose that cinematic telephoto/compression effect).
@@justinlaurens Based on your answer, it seems you're shooting more for portraits. Sorry for not watching the video...I didn't know what style you were suggesting the lenses for. There are 100s of videos of people suggesting the lenses they use but since you mentioned the 35mm and shorter like...say, a 24mm...for me, those are extremely essential lenses. You're right. They're not for compression. Then never were designed for that. I don't use them for the compression...I use them for context in tight quarters...like on the dance floor of a wedding. It seems that you are suggesting lenses for portrait photographers. Again, I didn't watch the video, so I'm just assuming...I only skipped to see what lenses you were addressing. I guess if the title of the video was the ONLY 2 Lenses you need for portrait photography, then we wouldn't be interacting because it would have made more sense because 50mm and 85mm are actually not the only 2 lenses people should have in their bag unless they're doing portrait photography, otherwise a different pair would be more practical for run and gun situations; in which case, you'd run with two bodies, and two prime lenses that would cover you for both scene and portrait...like may wedding photographers that are not only shooting portraits. Anyway, like I said...if it works for your, then it's the right choice. For me, I use all of them and then some for both photo and video. But yea...I shoot prime. I have the 70-200GM MK2 f2.8...and that is MAD compression. I still love my 85GM1.4 which lives on a body. Take care!
dalle 2 does not accept new users anymore
Focal length heavily depends on one's shooting style, I never care for 50mm for any kind of application, Portrait, landscape.....
Title is misleading. The choice is only from the viewpoint of a primarily portrait photographer. Even then, many would select a 35 1.4 instead of the 50 as a more versatile combination.
The thumbnail has 2 lenses pointing to a portrait photo
@@justinlaurens yes, but yiu talk abiut using these for landscapes, etc
Its his opinion and preference. Thats not misleading. He’s giving you examples of why he uses it and how it looks. To be in this lead would be just to ignore what he has said.
Legend thank you 🙏
i use the 16-35 f/2.8 L and 85mm f/1.8 on a aps-c and it covers 95% on my work
Nice. Strong combo 💪
Agree with you on the focal length, but, I think you got it the wrong brand selection , much better to have the Sony GM 50 1.4 + Sigma 85 1.4. The Sigma 50 is heavy and the Sony 85 is not a good performer , due for a total upgrade now
I would love to own the Sigma 85mm
Please give me a 85 mm lens😔
My current favorite is the Tamron 18-400mm for travel, wildlife, and general photography. I can use it on my Nikon D7500 and Z7 II with the FTZ adapter. That would be my only lens, but I took a 2nd lens, it would be the Tamorn 10-24mm for landscapes and architectural photos. I am an amateur. If I were a pro, I'd invest in better glass. I'm not too concerned with bokeh or low light performance since most of my shots are during daytime and I have a steady hand.
Appreciate you sharing! 🙏
The "human vision" is related to the distance from the subject. Not the focal length.
Lol no man
@@justinlaurens look for that " Lens Compression Doesn't Exist - Here's Why "
I am starting with mirrorless world with A7C ii + 50mm 1.4 GM
35mm f1.4 85mm f1.4 and I'm a happy camper
Зачем обрабатывать дерьмовые фото?
Ты звучишь жалким, иди поплачься мамочке.
@@justinlaurens ебобо?
How you edit your photos? I really like the colours and sharpness.
Thanks so much man, I teach exactly how to edit my photos, with an emphasis on achieving beautiful colors & tack sharpness in my online course: go.justinlaurens.com/portraitstransform
I shoot mainly events. And by events I don't mean weddings. Among the most common events I shoot are dog agility and rally obedience, and (human) dance. I have an 85 1.4 but it doesn't get much use at these events. I'm more likely to use a 24-70 2.8 or a 70-200 2.8. There are lots of kinds of photography. Not everyone shoots a lot of portraits and landscapes. I can't remember the last time I used a 50 1.4.
Your video is excellent. It provides very helpful information for someone who is starting out. Thank you for including images for reference.
You're very welcome! Thanks very much for the kind words 🙏
since AP getting hard to crack, im just into canva. lol
I have the 24mm 1.4 GM and 85mm 1.8 and I recently bought the 16-35 pz F4 with my new ZV-E1 which I’m using as « a no-compromise GoPro ». But I’m conscious that a 50mm GM is missing in my set. Not a priority at this time as I’m mainly shooting and filming outdoor where I need wider angles.
Very good overview. Thanks a lot
Glad it was helpful!
Imagine painter artists discussing paint tools, paint brushes and paint producers, with each other, like amateur photografers are doing. The creativity is not in the photo gears.
A $10 paint brush and a $2,000 modern lens are not comparable. But that was a cute try
Could I use this same method for saving for printing? Thanks in advance
sigma 28 70 2.8 fullframe in apsc is the best unique lense for all
Sounds like a dope lens 💪
Dude, Fantastic video and explanation.
Thank you so much man, appreciate the watch + nice comment 👊
Thank you my friend. Your channel is the best. Beautiful work and generosity. F
Thank you! Cheers!
Do you use nd filters ?
Only for videos!
@@justinlaurens bro you such an inspiration
What picture profile do you shoot photos in ?
For videos or photos?
@@justinlaurens photos
Bro your videos are so good and your photography is top shelf, I see some comments trying to challenge what your teaching never mind them, lots of us are here to learn and have no issues whatsoever
I appreciate that! 🙏
I fully agree about prime lenses. But 50 mm and 85 mm are too close to each other. I personnaly use 3 lenses but not all together (I take with me either 2 lenses or only 1 versatile lens). For landscape : A wide angle needs to be sharp, no flare, nice sunstar, no subject separation needed. Tamron 24 mm F/2.8 is the perfect budget lens. Sony 20 mm F/1.8 G is needed only if focus on astrophotography (wider aperture) or architecture (wider angle and less distorsion). For portrait : A king's bokeh is needed for professionnal looking photos. Samyang 85 mm F/1.4 AF version 1 aspherical is amazing, very close to the Sony GM for a third of the price. For general purpose each time I take only one litle lens with me : Samyang 45 mm F/1.8 is incredibly light and versatile, even closer to human eye focal than a 50 mm, great bokeh.
Some people use 35 and 85mm or APS-C 23 and 56mm. 😮
35+85 or 24-70 and 70-200..but if you are a wildlife shooter ….or a landscape shooter ..or a macro shooter ….all are different..your use case is focused on people…
Would you recommend FF lens for crop sensor apsc camera set up?
Depends what type of focal length look you're trying to achieve
When I can only take two lenses, I usually take a 35mm and an 85mm. I prefer the 85 over the 50 for headshots, and having a 35 gives me an easier time when I want to include some of the environment with the subject. 35mm has been a street photography classic, because it's wide enough to put your subject into the context of its surroundings, without losing it in the background. Recently was shooting in a museum, and my 35mm f/1.4's FOV made it easier to shoot larger works without having to stand halfway across the gallery, and the f/1.4 made it easier to deal with crappy museum lighting.