Need to do this on my bike, that ticking noise drives me crazy !! I put an akapovic full system on to drain noise out, didn't work just pissed neighbours off 🤣🤣🤣, keep up the good work bro 👍✊

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

>> I put an akapovic full system on to drain noise out lol I'm not sure that's how it works ;) btw you should be able to get a little baffle to go in the end if it's too loud. on the 125cc cylinder mine was actually faster with the baffle in too. >> keep up the good work bro 👍✊ cheers :)

@deano8456

4 жыл бұрын

I've been meaning to baffle in for a while now, I leave for work at 5am and its LOUD, i leave it to tick over for abit too just to get it warm 🤣. I've not got balls to attempt changing tensioner, I'll do service and change pads, tighten chain but that its.

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

@@deano8456 yeah it's not a pleasant job to do with the engine in the bike. Always have bruised/bloody hands for a few days afterwards :( Just done it again on the 180 cylinder

@deano8456

4 жыл бұрын

Well I would like the engine taking out and doing a few upgrades when I get a few quid, it's done nearly 39000 now I use all year round to go everywhere, done 1400 miles in one trip to Scotland and back.

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

@@deano8456 oh wow that's awesome! So cool to see other people doing longer distances on their R125. I thought it was just me \o/

plug is chocolate brown thats ideal , if a plug has a white look to the cathode/anode its a sign of being lean , if the plug has a black carbon build up , it tends to mean the motor is a little on the rich side for fuel ... your plug looks a chocolate brown and thats ideal .

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

she's on the best fuel map I've been able to make so far and runs amazing so that would be in line with what you've said re the plugs. Just wanted to check I wasn't missing something with the plugs, so thanks :)

Very well made.Thanks brother.

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

Thank you :)

Did you always have that ticking noise? I did some thing with engine like changing piston and now i have ticking noise when it gets more load like when i am going to hill at 6k rpm. I wonder if its same issue, i did take out my water pump and it looked like my decomp assebly ir hitting the metal lower

@NorthCust

3 жыл бұрын

it seems like in general these bikes tick quite a lot... it's something which i still kinda struggle with tbh cos it's not a great sound. Normally *excessive* the ticking is from two things - valve clearances or timing chain tension/tensioner. you can almost get it to go away completely with a manual tensioner (and correctly adjusted valves) e.g. here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lIKju8ijk7XAdMY.html and I did that till I broke the engine (for completely separate user-error reasons). The thing is that the timign chain guides wear over time and the chain stretches etc so you do have to adjust the tensioner and if you ride enthusiastically then you might be adjusting it more frequently than you'd think too. Also I found that she's a bit faster when the timing chain is a bit looser (i.e. when there's some ticking). It might just be because my timing chain/engine is old and knackered so being a little looser brings it more back into the realm of "normal operation" than "completely shagged" I've gone back to a late-model automatic adjuster, because although the ticking/sound varies as things wear, I've *just* adjusted the valve clearances to the tight end of the specification (0.01mm and 0.02mm), and with the automatic tensioner (which i verified was working exactly as it should be once it was fitted) I guess that gives me the best "confidence" level that the current amount of ticking is what I would _have_ to consider "normal". I'd say once ticking becomes more like the sound of hitting something with a small spoon like a "thwack", or particularly loud then perhaps check your clearances and/or tensioner, but the clearances is by far the easiest to check and most likely cause of excess ticking, so def start there. I'm also wondering to what extent the paper-thing steel of my exhaust allows the sound to carry. I'm wondering about doing some exhaust wrap or something to try and reduce how much the ticking sound carries up to me while riding. I also wonder whether one could run tighter-than-specification valve clearances on the exhaust particularly. 0.02 seems feels like quite a lot of play and it would seem to be where most of the ticking comes from. Theoretically adjusting the valves too tight shouldn't cause damage, but you may lose some compression, but i still think that's something to test on an engine dyno where stuff like that can be tested easily, not on my daily where i have to spend 2 hours removing stuff just to get to re-adjust the valves if it's wrong.

Hello, I changed cilinder gasket for my wr125x. Lined valve sprocket and mark on cilinder head perfectly. Now it runs but when I give a gas it stalls. Any ideas?

@NorthCust

2 жыл бұрын

umm no idea why it would be doing that off the top of my head. I guess it might be an idea to check hoses around the airbox, throttle body etc. Sorry can't be more help there.

@Gagamel69

2 ай бұрын

probably wrong adjusted valves

and after the water pump is put on, you have to put antifreeze in the radiator or take it from the can yourself?

@NorthCust

Жыл бұрын

I filled antifreeze into the radiator then squeeze each the hoses to and from a bit to try and work any air bubbles out, then run the bike for a little with the lid off the radiator (e.g. 5 mins). After a bit you can usually see that the coolant is circulating and that tends to work most of the air bubbles out. Once stopped I check the level again then and top up if it's dropped at all (can happen if air was trapped) - then lid on and should be good to go. I do tend to check the level again a bit later or after after the first ride just to be sure but normally it's fine by then. hope that helps :)

The timing on that cam sprocket looked out by one tooth to me. I'm sure the manual says install it closest to the exhaust side to compensate for the chain tensioner

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

hiya, I did wonder about that too but all the stuff I read suggested that if it was out by a tooth there would be valve interference..i.e. it wouldn't even turn over or run let alone run *great* (which so far it does). Also I didn't take the cam chain off and as far as I'm aware it didn't jump any teeth during the process. I think the position of the timing marks in the pic was everso slightly off because as soon as it went to *exactly* tdc it tried to roll over so I just went as close as i could where it would stay put to work on (and take the pic). I mean if you/anyone *knows* I'm wrong I'm wrong then please let me know - I'm still figuring this out myself.. > I'm sure the manual says install it closest to the exhaust side to compensate for the chain tensioner not sure what you mean by that, sorry..

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

heya, so it turns out possibly my timign chain might have stretched a bit which could explain it being off somewhat...so looks like you were right!

@san_lenciugas4807

4 жыл бұрын

@@NorthCust when I tooked off my water pump I saw that my timing cam sproket looked like your. I tried to move it by one tooth, then it looked ok. But when I started my motorcycle it seemed that it idle better, but also started to make noise and have a little bit more vibration (I believe) so I don't know what to do now. Or I should leave it, or I should move cam sproket back?

@san_lenciugas4807

4 жыл бұрын

Also, how I can know if the chain tensioner is bad? I have it in my hands right now lol :D

@NorthCust

4 жыл бұрын

@@san_lenciugas4807 hi :) thank you for posting - honestly I'm not sure what to suggest - we're getting to the edge of my understanding/knowledge here. I was considering trying the same thing - to move the chain round by a tooth just to see how it affected things, but at this point the motor works and I'd rather focus my effort on building the new motor, where I can tinker and test without risking my means of transport ;) I'm curious if you've noticed a change in the power band, where it comes on power etc. Re noise/vibration.. I would have thought that as long as you turn the engine over by hand to make sure no valve interference/touching, then as long as it runs you should be ok.If there was a problem you would probably know about it within the first 2 seconds of starting the motor (followed by some nasty crunching noises and lots of smoke lol). If you don't have a manual timing chain tensioner I guess the sound might change somewhat from moving the chain around though.

The link for the adjuster doesnt go anywhere on ebay. ???

@NorthCust

3 жыл бұрын

I've not seen them on ebay for a while but you can still get them from motogaga: motogaga.com/cosmetic-parts/974-1297-cardinals-racing-manual-timing-chain-tensioner-yamaha-r15.html#/3-color-red though i've gone back to a gen2 automatic one. Mostly because I then don't worry whether I've adjusted it correctly.

@chriscs9080

2 жыл бұрын

@@NorthCust its very simple to adjust .. You start finger tight until you feel some resistance .Turn engine on and let it warm up ,turn until the point that noise goes away and when it does turn back where the noise starts , finally move it a tiny amount where it stops .

Oh no. You can remove tensioner just by undoing those 2 bolts. No need to open the engine to set it on TDC

@NorthCust

3 жыл бұрын

sure you can, and most of the time it might even be ok to do so.. but this was my first time doing that procedure so didn't want to risk things getting out of alignment or even the *chance* of the chain jumping a tooth... so i did it the way the service manual suggested...

Werry nervous