Пікірлер

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  @yugimaster22ok9421 күн бұрын

  What year is this anyone know?

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  @yugimaster22ok9421 күн бұрын

  need to do my timing chain and such just trying to go in with the best plan possible

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  @pompeylass1528Ай бұрын

  Thanks for putting this video together, I have a Fantic Caballero 125 with a noisey cam bearing (I suspect) so this will help me for sure... 👍

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  @ellenrobieruiztoledo8146Ай бұрын

  I been looking for something like this due my other 1 panel has been cancelled by the courrier for no reason, and i ended up having 2 controllers and 2 different kinds of batteries. A LEAD acid and a Lithium. So i must gonna try this instead. THANK YOU FOR TRYING THIS FOR US.

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  @itsmisterchris2 ай бұрын

  Love the intro 😂😂😂 just missing a machine gun shots

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  @vonouten3 ай бұрын

  You shold buy cylinder head with a 20/23 valves.

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  @NorthCust3 ай бұрын

  yeah , probably. maybe on the next one

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  @garybuckley654 ай бұрын

  Thanks, for the help mans a G!...

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  @waltermorana48774 ай бұрын

  Hi do you know if the Powercommander fc 2008-2013 fits in the yzf r125 second gen??

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  @NorthCust3 ай бұрын

  it does not fit, sorry. Any adjustment you make to the fuelling will be compensated for by the O2 sensor and ecu. Rapidbikes evo do an ecu which can allegedly work on second-gen up to 2016 (and sends a fake signal to the o2 to stop the ecu adjusting) but not the later version. Also the only person I know who tried to fit one of those couldn't get it working, but that may not have been the machine's fault.

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  @psycho33445 ай бұрын

  Nice vid bro, can these 180cc bore kits be run with stock 100cc injector and pcv or is the bigger injector needed? Thanks

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  @NorthCust3 ай бұрын

  they can run just fine with the stock 100cc/min injector, and for low-mid rpm riding it's actually smoother and a little more responsive, but I think once you get above ~8k the injector just can't flow enough fuel to satisfy the 180, resulting in disappointing top-end. It took a stage2 cam and the big injector to get mine to perform more as I'd hoped at high rpm.

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  @meulo15735 ай бұрын

  I got a yzfr 125 14 front 48 rear should i go to 15 front ?

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  @waltermorana48775 ай бұрын

  No go with a 13 front instead but u will hit rev limiter in 6 gear with a top speed of 125kmh

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  @NorthCust3 ай бұрын

  the bike may not be able to push the 15t which ends up being less fun, unless you spend a lot of time doing top-speed runs down long hills :-)

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  coming back to this video like 4 years later - omg these tunes are terrible lmao xD

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  @nisufisu6 ай бұрын

  Only 500$ for a new motor?!??!?! Its like 1500$ in my country, and then we are talking about a rebuilt engine. Not new

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  sorry, where did you get $500 from for a new motor?

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  @danielenava85376 ай бұрын

  Cazzz yours

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  @rsmith163847 ай бұрын

  Thank you for testing this. I have a small offgrid setup, its producing alot more than I am using, so im looking at one of those plug in grid tie inverters to put some into my house, and this is how im gonna do it. Only concern now is competing mppt algorithms, one might hog it, or they could keep fighting endlessly

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  @svenshanah6 ай бұрын

  I don't think you'll have that issue. If I'm understanding u correctly..Will Prowse did a video on just that some years ago, proving that the controllers won't fight each other. Might be worth a peek.

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  hi, thanks! Hopefully it was useful. I actually just recently happened to get to test using two MPPT controllers on the same array to feed two separate banks and that did NOT work as anticipated. With my 4 panels in series I'd usually make ~85v on each mppt individually but when connected together the input voltage reading for both controllers dropped to 17v, and also only showed the current input I'd expect on one panel (~7a), not (e.g. 4 in parallel - ~28a). I didn't test it for very long beyond that but that was with two almost identical controllers (Renogy Rover 20 and rover 30). I can't say conclusively there's not a way of making it work but in my brief test, with my setup, it did not seem to work. Sadly I don't really understand enough about electronics to really speculate what might be happening.

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  @furysolar7 ай бұрын

  Nice, did you try using Two MPPTs connected parallelly to single Solar Array, and charging Single or Multiple Battery banks?

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  please see above..

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  @thailande36027 ай бұрын

  kzread.info11ZI1XJ81aA?si=LyJFzx0jytCpiawR

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  @alfonico68987 ай бұрын

  Many thanks. Very clear.

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  @jimtmurphy7 ай бұрын

  Love the fire extinguisher nearby in the video, LOL! very helpful, thanks!

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  Safety second! xD

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  @stirbueduard73518 ай бұрын

  Why would there be any Equalisation going on since there’s 2 batteries Involved?

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  @ablegr8 ай бұрын

  What are the torque specs for the engine mount bolts ?

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  46nm. See page 2-19 of the service manual for all the torque specs :-)

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  @waltermorana48778 ай бұрын

  I have a problem with Naraku 150cc and dynojet FC on my r125 2008, i think It May be the decompression Rod , the bike loses Power when i release the throttle and the engine brake kicks in... Any suggestions (sry for bad english)

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  when you say "loses power" do you mean it doesn't fire/engine-stops, or more like it hesitates momentarily? where did you get your map for the fc? if there's stuff happening when you drop off the power that's normally the area under the diagonal (top left to bottom right) in the map, so that's probably where I'd be looking for answers. The decompression lever (if fitted correctly and functional) is activated by the cam spinning and it doesn't have to spin very fast to activate so it seems unlikely that it would be the problem, unless it's not fitted properly somehow, but I would have thought that would make an awful noise and be quite obvious that something is wrong.

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  @waduhek25689 ай бұрын

  Will 16T fit with stock chain?

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  it did on mine but there wasn't the power to drive it really (on my bike anyway) so ended up slower than 15t

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  @Mt248559 ай бұрын

  Does it make much of a difference? Iv been tempted doing the same on my 2022 mt but wouldnt bother for a few extra mph because its still the same gearing as a stock engine

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  The autotune module is one of my favourite upgrade just because of it's all round usefulness and how easy it makes tuning the bike after I've changed stuff. That being said I don't think you can fit a PCV to the gen2 bikes (i.e. 2019 and onwards) because it's a closed loop system i.e. there's an o2 sensor that will "correct" any fuel adjustment you make. The gen2 bikes also have an o2 sensor but apparently there's some boxes which can tune it (rapidbike evo) and which also have an autotune module but I'm not aware of any such system for 2019 onwards. Powertronicecu.com *list* a tuning box but there's no autotune feature so meh ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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  @dimtarivanov542310 ай бұрын

  I did the same but my clutch lever is not returning fully

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  @NorthCust5 ай бұрын

  there's a couple of places you can adjust the clutch play to get it right - there's a little bolt/pushrod in the end of the clutch casing (with a little locking nut) which lets you adjust where the clutch lever sits relative to the cable, and you can also adjust where the cable is positioned in relation to the engine casing, and hence how much of the cable is used (or the clutch position relative to the cable), and also you can adjust free play on the lever. See page 5-45 in the service manual for how to adjust the pushrod, the cable and lever ought to be self explanatory. Good luck and patience :-)

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  @Mt2485510 ай бұрын

  It didn't add much to it I can reach 75/80 on a standard mt and you've got fairings

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  @crzprgrmmr11 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the great guide, going to attempt it when the seal comes in.

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  @crzprgrmmr10 ай бұрын

  Performed it today- very easy process if you take your time. Thanks again for the great guide!

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  @dalidalii987111 ай бұрын

  Instead of buying second charger just buy ups and inverter 1st battery set connect to inverter connected to solar charger then connect inverter to ups then your loads must be connected to ups make sure both ups and inverter can handle your load also make sure your ups charger Amp is little bit high it Will charge your batteries with electricity from inverter when inverter shut down your ups will take over my solar system is nonstop

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  @xcri7zx79211 ай бұрын

  I did the same but my motorcycle won’t move! Any ideas?

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  @NorthCust11 ай бұрын

  might need a little more detail... does the engine go round but the clutch won't engage? the only thing to really adjust in there is the little pushrod in the end of the clutch. If the clutch won't disengage then perhaps that needs adjusting. email [email protected] but it might take me a while to respond atm.

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  @ripster018Ай бұрын

  ​@@NorthCustmine wont move either, the motor just turns around even tho the plates are moving and done the adjustment that the manual says you need to do on the short push rod, but bike wont free up to let me move it just turns the motor around

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  @REALISMMODSAC Жыл бұрын

  Sick video bro kinda mad that my sym nhx 125 can sit at full throttle all day everyday like you are in the video very often and never had a problem so far and the first time about 7 months ago i did it 1000% thorttle for 19 miles somewhere and 19 miles back and it was severely low on oil meant to be 1.3l was at 400ml and it ran anazing i was so angry but didnt notice till afyer it was low and done the same ever since with fresh oil topped up few ml every 3 ish months and after 12 months ill do oil change

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  @panospapadimitriou3498 Жыл бұрын

  so if the pv array not exceed the amps and volts of any of 2 mppts its ok!! only its unexpected the way it equalize the charging between them that depends of the battery internal resistance if nothing else change any parameter ...right ? ? ? ? ??

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  @NorthCust11 ай бұрын

  hi :-) 1) neither of those charge controllers are MPPTs, 2) I think bear in mind that both chargers may not always be in "charge" mode, s o the PV array shouldn't exceed the amps and volts of *1* charge controller (not both) since most of the time it's only one controller active. 3) I have no idea what you mean re internal resistance, sorry. NC

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  @lukehawes6326 Жыл бұрын

  i need your help!!! i have the 2020 yzf r125, im from northampton and id love to pay you to get this to 180cc ive read your thread online and loved it

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  @NorthCust11 ай бұрын

  hi, thanks :-) maybe drop me an email at [email protected] - though idk if you can really do it on the gen3. It might be possible but it's a whole different system.

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  @drhwywirta5992 Жыл бұрын

  Blh order adaptornya bos

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  @EDUARD195 Жыл бұрын

  and where to put the clutch fluid?

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  there is no clutch fluid.. it's a "wet clutch" so gets oil from the sump etc along with the other gearbox bits

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  @tiggerlator Жыл бұрын

  stick bearing in the freezer first :)

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  should have tried that tho tbh it's so small idk if it would have made much difference...(i.e. it's difficult to maintain the cold temp). Pipe frrzing spray might have worked though, might have to try that next time.

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  @tiggerlator Жыл бұрын

  @@NorthCust I have used the freezer method with head bearing races. they just drop in. Even handling them after been in the freezer kina burns your fingers. Freeze spray would work a treat though.

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  @markcalder3496 Жыл бұрын

  Great vid,really helpful. Thanks

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  @officialmysteriousrider130 Жыл бұрын

  Them tools should come with like a pointed end to stop you mashing the thread's up.i made my own 3way puller & just used the end of a plum bob so it fit perfectly into the shaft that way you wont flattering the end of the crankshaft

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  key thing seems to be to put the nut back on before you use the puller. I think the other tool I used had a pointed end but that also deformed the end of the crank and splayed it out ('mushroomed' it)...Having the nut on may not have prevented that but at least the nut would be on so I wouldn't have had to grind the end of the crank down an re-file the threads to get the nut back on.

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  @ridbanner1407 Жыл бұрын

  no mention of centre nut adjustment ? essential on a new clutch.

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  good point.. must have missed filming that bit.. I spent a while fiddling with that too. maybe time for an updated video.. hmm. That was the first time I'd done it and I've done lots of them by now.

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  @maltini38918 ай бұрын

  Hey@@NorthCust could you explain how it works? How are the measurements. Good Video BTW ;D

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  @xvision8327 Жыл бұрын

  hello, and in what gear did I have to loosen the screws and change the discs without putting it in neutral, right?

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  erm I think it was just in 1st or second. They're not torqued super tight so doesn't reallymatter which iirc

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  @user-ki6ub9tu9v Жыл бұрын

  Вопрос - зачем, а главное - НАХУЯ?!!

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  @niklavs2027 Жыл бұрын

  Be sure to check, the TPS (trothle position sensor) wire conection. I had problems with fueling but at the end problem was in this one wire that was conected wrong

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  @admiralclawz8524 Жыл бұрын

  yo bro im wondering i am currently running stock injector but i have a problem with it only reving up to 9000rpm and when i ride in high rpms it just bogs after like a minute of driving. and it only reaches a top speed of 105kmh

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  @admiralclawz8524 Жыл бұрын

  i have the power commander and have adjusted it but i have a auto tune not installed yet but i dont really know how to install it

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  what cc cyclinder/engine?

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  autotune is pretty simple to wire in, what's tricky is welding the exhaust bung since if your exhaust is stainless then it needs very carefully TIG welding. The exhausts are usually very thin metal (lightweight) too which makes it extra tricky to weld.

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  @admiralclawz8524 Жыл бұрын

  @@NorthCust Yeah. I have tried alot of things now i can Get it up to 10500 rpm but the map i have is all -20, -40 etc. i have the top performance 180kit im currently using the 160cc/min injector. It runs great but overheats very Quickly. The fan comes on after 5 to 10 minutes of riding.

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  @luisvasallo3646 Жыл бұрын

  This video sucks

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  @alibear57 Жыл бұрын

  Thank you for this experimental / instructional video. I'm also wondering if you've had any longtime success with this? I have just bought a Lifepo4 battery, for my camper-van, but the existing setup, is fully designed for Lead Acid (including charging from Solar Panel & Van Alternator). This has caused a dilemma for me, because I want to keep both systems (but the LifePo wouldn't be able to get the charge from the alternator, and the solar controller is only able to pick one battery type at a time, so can't just ADD it in). I decided to try a splitter cable, from Amazon, and a second controller (like your ones). When I connected it all up, I got excited, because both controllers were showing them as charging each individual set of batteries. But, after about 10 mins, the controller to the LifePo showed no charging from the solar panel. I'm puzzled as to the reason, so I'm thinking that your diode idea might be my solution. Unfortunately, I am a complete novice with that kind of electronics. I'll keep studying your plans and hopefully get my system to work. Cheers

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  I ran two controllers for quite a while in the van in the end becaus eI too had mistmatched banks - my main bank was 2x75ah deep cycle lead acid and the other bank was 1 60ah and one 75ah car starter battery. It did seem a bit weird at times re how it decided who got the power but it did actually seem to work. It seemed to work ok without the diodes but I also kinda didn't really trust it without so ended up leaving them on. With a lead acid and lifepo setup like yours I would have thought this sort of arrangement but with diodes on the solar input of each controller ought to work just fine. Good luck! :)

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  @phils60092 ай бұрын

  Alibear , ive got the same situation , how did you get on as im going to try the same thing soon .

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  @pleessi5516 Жыл бұрын

  Which year is ur yzfr?

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  2008

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  @jasoncampbell2808 Жыл бұрын

  I just installed a panel, charge controller, and battery in my storage building today. The plan is to hook up some LED light strips in it. Behind our storage building is a chicken coop where we have 2 Blink outdoor cameras. These run off of AA lithium batteries which die pretty quick because of all the movement, and they are expensive. I was thinking of adding a charge controller and small battery at the coop just to use the 2 USB ports on the controller as power for our 2 cameras. Since I have a solar panel at our storage building I am wondering if I can use a splitter on the panel to run underneath our building to the chicken coop and the other charge controller and battery. This video is as close as I've found. It is essentially the same as my idea, only I plan to use MC4 splitters at the panel.

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  I suspect you might be better off taking power from controller or the batteries, surely that's gotta be neater, involves less controllers and also don't underestimate how much power you lose due to attentuation. 2x solar cables means 2x attenuation. 2 controllers worked but it was a bit confusing and i don't feel like it was really ideal. Instead how about you just run the solar to the storage building as you have and then run a 12v line from there to the coop and install a pair of 12v usb sockets like these (or similar) : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304118526870 I suggest these because I found that even in my small van I was getting quite noticable attenuation (voltage/power drop due to long wires). I knew that it was worse at low voltages but wasn't aware just HOW extreme it is. To that end, using the 12v usb sockets has a secondary benefit - namely that the sockets will accept a range onf input voltages so if you get some attenuation on the lead from the controller/batteries to the usb sockets, it doesn't matter bc the sockets steps 12-24v down to 5v anyway so the effect of attenuation ought to be effectively eliminated in the stepdown process. Hope that helps :)

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  @glennalvarez0223 Жыл бұрын

  is your set up still working? im looking for this video and i want to know of it realky works and going well... i just bought another similar charge controller and plan to use for my 2 ups 12 v 7ah battery, my old one was 70ah sealed gel battery, can i do this trick in my set up??? please help me bro. good day

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  hi.. I ran basically that setup in my van for about 3-4 months and it worked pretty well (different charge controllers [the eco-worthy ones] but still pretty cheapo ones switching ones, not mppt, 2 pairs of batteries, one pair 75ah lead-acid-calcium totalling 150ah, and two mismatched car batteries totalling 135ah) I had two 120w panels feeding it and whilst it was a bit confusing what it was doing at times it did actually seem to work pretty well. I had one bank to run the fridge and one for everything else and i had 0 problems with it. Eventually I got a second matching pair of 75ah lead-acid-calcium and now have all 4 wired up into one bank and switched to a single controller, with a view to fitting the new renogy MPPT controller I have sitting here for better efficiency and better charging. As far as I understand it...as long as you have each controller set to the correct battery type for what's attached to it I don't think there should be a problem. Also apparently you can mismatch parallel wired batteries (NOT SERIES)... so if you have a 70ah sealed/agm and a pair of 7ah sealed agms then you can parallel them on the same bank np. Apparently it's something to do with the internal resistance of the batteries whcih just figures it out, tho personally I'd prefer "slightly mistmatched" like my 70 ah and 65ah rather than 7ah and 70ah. Also with parallel afaik wire in "staggered parallel" to maximise battery life. I hope that helps, good luck :)

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  @glennalvarez0223 Жыл бұрын

  @@NorthCust thank you so much for a very clear info... good luck bri.

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  @sythetx448 Жыл бұрын

  Hello mate I’m thinking of putting a Malossi 180 on my bike what things do I need to change and buy for it to be able to handle it perfect thank you

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  @NorthCust10 ай бұрын

  that is actually a lot bigger question than it sounds....

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  @norwegianguy Жыл бұрын

  In my opinion the best and most reliable option is to get a newer and better bike.

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  that's fair enough - but your opinion doesn't take certain factors into account though, namely like that I like *this specific* bike. I got it from my best friend who died a few years back and it's kinda my connection to him, so for me it's a "forever bike"....till I write it off or it writes me off.

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  @AATechvideos Жыл бұрын

  this video look like a horror movie going no where

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  @alibear57 Жыл бұрын

  There's ALWAYS somebody like you who tries to belittle folk who are experimenting and helping the rest of us! Go get a life.

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  @jamal6732 Жыл бұрын

  my r125 has a naraku 150cc kit on it , it bump starts fine but the engine makes a really loud ticking noise coming from the timing chain and the valves are retuned to how they should be , the bike doesn’t idle it dies out after a few seconds , the throttle doesn’t feel responsive either and when i try to start it , the starter motor is really struggling it can barley crank over , then sometimes it doesn’t even crank over , the relay just vibrates really fast , i’ve changed the battery , fuel injector and air filter . any advice or help anyone can give me ?

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  @jamal6732 Жыл бұрын

  the dash also turns off when i press the start button

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  @NorthCust Жыл бұрын

  what year bike is it? Also did you change the cam when you did the cylinder?

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  @waltermorana48778 ай бұрын

  I have 150cc Naraku too but your problem May be the voltage regolator

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  @Joe-ip8vh Жыл бұрын

  Only thing I would address is the music proper rave music init 😂