Wool SUPER Numbers Explained - What Do Suit Fabric Super 100s, 180s... Mean?
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Generally speaking, worsted wool is the most popular fabric for men's suits around the world and while there are technically many fabrics that fall into the definition of worsted, there are subtle differences in classification among them.
One of these determining factors is the wool's so-called super number. You may be familiar with seeing terms like super 120s or super 180s on online retail pages or in fabric swatch books but what exactly does the term super mean in relation to worsted wool?
Before we can answer that question, let's talk a bit more generally about what qualifies as worsted wool. The term worsted can alternately describe either a combed yarn, a fabric made from a combed yarn, or a weight of yarn. A combed yarn, by the way, is made when wool fibers are rotated by metal combs that align the long fibers while discarding these short staple fibers. The result is a long lasting fine and smooth yarn with a somewhat glossy finish. Also, by adjusting the pull of these combs on the wool, one can get lighter or heavier yarns whereas varying the twists will impact the look, feel, and strength of the yarn. Tight twisting provides a crisper feel whereas loose twisting makes for a softer but weaker yarn.
To answer another general question, is a lighter worsted wool better than a heavier weight?
The answer not necessarily no. Similarly, you might be under the impression that a lighter weight weave is going to be cooler to wear and a heavier weight would be warmer but this isn't always the case either. Something that's heavy but relatively open in its weave like a fresco fabric, for instance, is going to feel much cooler when worn than something that's tightly woven and lighter like a super 150s fabric, for instance.
It's important to keep in mind then that a lighter fabric with a higher super number is not a hallmark of better fabric, it just indicates that the fibers used were thinner in diameter. Similarly, the super number doesn't provide any information about the weave or how heavy the fabric is.
So with standardization systems in place, super still sits as the top designation for how fine a wool may be. With that said, some companies have gotten a little subjective again in exactly how they're grading their super wools. So for example, a super 200s wool from one manufacturer might be a bit different in how fine it is from a super 200s wool from another manufacturer. Things are generally going to be fairly consistent, overall.
So a higher super number will mean that a fabric is going to be softer to the touch and generally will feel more like luxurious. Conversely, a lower super number will mean that the cloth is more sturdy and probably warmer.
Now you may be wondering, how do these super numbers translate into considerations for wearing?
Stated simply, anything with a higher super number is going to be more temperamental and hard to care for over time. The thinner, finer fibers of a wool with a high super number may have an amazing hand which is to say how soft they feel to the touch but they're also going to break down much more quickly than a heftier fiber would.
Speaking generally then, it's our opinion that it's best not to get overly caught up in the super numbers of your worsted wool suits. Very good quality suits can be created from wool in the super 100s to super 150s range and even below that, and of course, a suit that is well fitted to the wearer's body is going to look great regardless of what the super number might be or even if it doesn't have one. Conversely, something in a super 180s or super 220s wool is still going to look sloppy if it doesn't fit your frame well.
Пікірлер: 151
Haha. I thought I knew everything about wool. I was really wrong. Great addition to the channel. I loved the tweed video and I will be sharing this one as well!
@jordanlazaro1676
2 жыл бұрын
I am looking into getting a super 180 wool fabric suit that is very fitted. I plan on wearing it once, or two times a week for 3 hours each wear. Do you think that this suit will last me a good time?
You are the only 'gentleman' sartorial channel' that goes into this depth; most other channels don't dare go to this historical depth and detail. The Gentleman's Gazette is head and shoulders above the rest!
@HAHABAHAHA
5 ай бұрын
Agreed
Good job from Master handspinner. A few minor points. 1. The ‘s’ after a number refers to Bradford count Skeins. Bradford used how many skeins (S) from a pound of wool ( but also we calculate count from silk, linen, cotton using a different constant in the equations) 2. The super wools are Merinos which I believe you mentioned but there are other super fine wools Cormo, Rambouillet to name two. Merino has branded itself as ‘wool’ however it has become a monopoly. Merino is the silk of wools. Not appropriate for all applications. We are losing sheep breeds’ genetics which is bad for all sheep. 200 sheep breeds out there. We in the fiber community are fighting to save rarer breeds. Long wools for example would provide excellent luster and tremendous longevity so great for outerwear. 3. Wools breath which is why they are great even in summer. My husband wears wool jersey tshirts for example. But as you say, if lining is acetate, there goes wonderful quality of wool to wick moisture. Try to line with cotton or linen for summer or some unconstructed jackets unlined. 4. The finer super wools drape but the ‘coarser’ wools hold their body which is why vintage suits used more of those wools. So by buying super wools which are so flimsy you are buying how feels to the touch alone. Those drapy fabrics needs a lot more understructure to get it to have shape. If you had a wool with more ‘body’ less understructure is needed. Make sense? Otherwise great job.
I love the way this gentleman has presented this session, magnificent
These are great info sharing videos - as a self-admitted quality fanatic, I appreciate the guidance and the fact that you shared your mix and match of fabrics, complementary colors and patterns, illustrating once more that looking sharp doesn’t have to be a chore.
You are looking less robotic good job
@davidthom7127
8 ай бұрын
😮
I'm grateful for this video. Not only will it help me see through any potential marketing ploys, it'll help me better select what's right for me. It seems like I should look for a super 100-120 with a heavier weight and a looser weave. I want the durability, breathe-ability, and the resistance to wrinkles.
After watching so many GG videos I was able to get a custom 3 piece suit recently. I got it in S150s LP year round fabric. It is super soft to the touch, but since it is so light it doesn't drape as well. I personally don't mind the drape, but it's something to keep in mind.
Very Informative. The Gentleman giving the explanation kept me engaged throughout the video.
I am planning on commissioning a MTM suit and this was very helpful. Thank you!
Great tutorial on the super numbers.
Well presented, beautifully explained. Thank you.
Thanks, very informative. Really like the history aspect of the lesson.
Absolutely great and very informative video! I just found your channel and I am a subscribed fan! Can’t wait to watch all of your content!
Finally! Preston started wearing formal and beautiful suits.
@pattgsm
5 жыл бұрын
Greg Crabling - Yes, his suit fits him very well. Aside from using a neck tie for a belt, I like Preston's casual style (sweater, cardi, chinos, loafers).
Will you ever make a video to compare english and italien suits? That would be great!
Excellent, excellent video. Perfect explanations.
I had an old blazer I thought was made of a blend, but then the label said pure wool super 100s and then I kept it. I am such snob.
Thanks so much for the education !
Super 120s fit the bill for me. G & H my Savile Row tailor (Davide Taub is the bomb) are making me 3 suits that are in a word exquisite. To me these suits are just as elegant as any higher super designation!
I love your program so much.
The Sartorial Talks KZread channel also has an excellent video on this.
@misha9952
5 жыл бұрын
When i saw the thumbnail for this video I thought it was the one from Sartorial Talks. That video is great as well. I did like a bit of the background on wool that Preston gives.
@bobbybaccalieri1721
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you!
This guy knows his stuff. Thanks for the information.
Very informative!
Have a couple of Tasmanian super 150s from Hickey Freeman. Really like them
WOW! Wonderful presentation
Superb video!
Jesus Christ. Are you guys mind readers? Not even two hour ago I was looking for a way to contact you to make exactly this video! Incredible!
@HoGraz
5 жыл бұрын
No you’re just in the Truman Show.
I've been waiting for this video my whole life lol
Thanks! This is awesome!
Outstanding presentation!! Quite informative and equally educational! I have observed a new face at Gentleman's Gazette. If I may, the glasses may need to disappear or simply replaced in order to see the eyes better. Pardon my providing this view. Semper Fi
When I have suits made I mainly consider super numbers in the respect of how durable it's going to be. I don't want something too fine because I don't want to wear it out prematurely. With that in mind I like to stick between 100s and 120s
@michaelb7862
Жыл бұрын
I'm the same way, I've learnt that Super 120 is too delicate for me
Would you consider making a video about espadrilles, would like to implement them into my wardrobe for this summer but still not sure about the do's and don'ts, thanks! Once again great vid!
OMG THANK GOD YOU MADE THIS
I love the history lesson, how they actual sheep were moved around great info and although I would love to have 180s plus the best I own is 150 and I love it
Can we get a video on Gabadine Fabric maybe as well? I’m really loving these fabric vids as it helps me to understand more when I buy my cloth, though mostly online these days.
Helpful info for those of us who dabble in tailoring, thanks.
A lower super number is not necessarily sturdier because, as was pointed out, it is not related to threads per inch. Therefore, a low super number may have denser threads but if they are woven somewhat loosely, the yarns can be pulled easily during ordinary use or even during construction.
This video helped me a lot..
Good video. Do you have a video on how to deal with ties? By that I'm referring to. How to store them. Should I hang them from a tie holder, fold\ roll them. What? This is about everyday wear.
Great video
That jaw line is Killin me!
@jazmineyazmin
3 жыл бұрын
seriously it looks like he could cut ice with it lol
Great video as always GG! Still... rather disappointing to hear that Preston says his suit fits well. Taking in the center and side seams is a relatively cheap alteration but does wonders for one's fit! It's surprising you haven't done this yet, Preston!
@gentlemansgazette
5 жыл бұрын
You're absolutely right, Alex; the jacket, while I'd still say that it fits "well" (a fairly vague term, admittedly), could undoubtedly benefit from some alteration. Thanks for your keen eye, and stay tuned for some upcoming content on alterations! :) - Preston
@DerBMXFan
5 жыл бұрын
"fits well" is quite genorouse Here. He could fit a small watermellon in his buttoned jacket. Looks like he got it from his big brother. Looking forward to the alterations Video.
@hydrogenated1
5 жыл бұрын
Some of the trouble with taking a too athletic cut on jacket sides results in the bottom opening up when buttoned to reveal your tie. I struggle with this balance and tend to leave my suit jackets unbuttoned as it looks slightly less sloppy than having my ties stick out below my suit button.
I need a suit that is a material for winter, but can be comfortable in summer at well. Is there such a thing?
been waiting for this, thank you guys!
Excellent video! May I suggest that you film a video discussing different weave (e.g., plain weave, hopsack, twill) of fabrics in the future?
@misha9952
5 жыл бұрын
Great suggestion, also maybe a breakdown or history and current relevance of different mills like Zegna, Cannonico, Scabal, Dormeuil, etc.
@williamhobson4349
3 жыл бұрын
I second that suggestion
Very good video
These looks great!! 🤩👍
@eileenyip6107
5 жыл бұрын
I'll like it! 😘💋
@eileenyip6107
5 жыл бұрын
Tks*;-)😘💋
thank you
Excellent video on a very relevant subject. It's bad psychologically to use commonly provided terms i.e. the super numbers without any knowledge of what they mean. Grasping these common but yet usually unknown terms will help men be more confident understanding their wardrobe and therefore more confident in their wardrobe. Thanks as always for being champions in the menswear cause.
Could we get a bit more distance between the camera and the speaker?
Can you make a video going over the Identificatiom of fabrics when its not labeled? I purchased 2 storage units at auction and one of them contained a pair of custom suits the labels are all but destroyed however by some miracle the suits appear in amazing condition. I can tell they are custom hand stitched and the lining in one of them is silk. Beyond that I cannot figure anything out.
A niche subject, but one very well explained. 👌
preston, what do you think of charles tyrwhitt's new "top drawer" line? i love this brand
For tweed suits, what is it super number .?
Thanks Preston will you believe that I have an interview in Huddersfield 😃👍🏽
@gentlemansgazette
5 жыл бұрын
Best of luck with your interview, Riz! - Preston
What is the book being shown in the video?
من أفضل صانعي المحتوي... تحيه طيبه لك من بلد الحضاره مصر... محمد أبو الفضل
I love this guy
I am wanting to get a hand-made wool suit and the suit maker has 120, 180, and 200 option. Which would be of better quality?
best video ever... love it. respect and well done.
A couple of points. Donegal. It's pronounced more like Dunegal. Secondly, in my experience tailors prefer not to use the lightest fabrics because they're harder to work with. Imagine trying to make a suit with tissue paper. Heavier cloth is easier to work with, at least with handmade garments.
@GEJS02
3 жыл бұрын
‘Done’-‘egg’-‘all’? Is that how you say it? /gen
@liamfoley9614
3 жыл бұрын
@@GEJS02 it might be a matter of accent but I'd say it Done-e-gall
@dparis2172
4 ай бұрын
Duhnny-gahl’. I lived next door to an Irishman from there.
I don't know if it is the lighting or the glasses, but it makes your eyes look HUGE!
Dont Want ton be too picky buuuuut some of your videos happen to be released juste à few days after hugo jacomet’s. With that Being said once again thats another great video !
I’ve found over the years that modern Super 150s from time tested companies like VBC, LP, Zenga etc. actually held up better than most of my 120s. So now I no longer believe the durability hype
For some bizarre reason, all the fabric shops in my city only have super 120s and up, and all of them are some kind of cashmere wool blend sometimes with silk too. Sometimes, i just want a sturdy fabric yet it is impossible.
yeah i used to have a channel called Super 100s i deleted but i want to recover it
Could you make a video about tools for house work and cars? I think it is a important skill that all men should know.
@misha9952
5 жыл бұрын
I think Art of Manliness has some videos on those
i confused are cashmere worsted??
Ah, so it's normal that my 'Super' fabric suit doesn't have the big red "S" on the chest...
Sorry I want to know if you have online shopping ?
I definitely prefer a more durable fabric, but I also prefer a more rugged look. I don't mind rough fabrics on my body so I almost never go for something fine and smooth.
Nice
Has anyone else ever wondered what the quality of wool is from companies like Michael kors, Perry Ellis, and Calvin Klein? Any company that puts out a product that isn’t a super number for that matter. I’d like to know more about these wools since I’d like to know what these companies are producing and how much they are making off it versus what it’s actually worth and the quality difference.
And whats about cashmere wool? In pakistam the brand lawrencepur makes the best tropical woolen fabrics
with my little understanding...I gathered that answer to what is the best # is that -"it depends" :p
My custom made suits are super 130s. They are soft and resistant to winkles.
Hello fellow gentlemen
im thinking 160 super for pants 180 for shirt and 190 for jacket. i really want to sew my own suit, its taking tons of research, hopefully can start sewing in November and finish by xmas.
@lisettegarcia
2 жыл бұрын
Did you make it?
Preston is the ultimate Clark Kent ...and out of the phone box comes Rapha
Isn't this suit too big for you? That's what I was wondering (see 13:45 and forward). Thanks!
I really enjoy your content, but I usually get discouraged to watch the video because of the (I believe, perceived) movement of the background due to the change of frames in the shot. It makes me a little seasick, sorry. Changing of subject, Preston is on fire, well done!
Sorry to be pernickety but Donegal is pronounced more like ‘dunny-gal’ as opposed to ‘donny-gal’. I’ve heard it a few times pronounced incorrectly on here and I’ve always wanted to correct it.
I want to buy a lighter suit for the summer from T.M Lewin, don't know if you've heard of it, its based in the U.K. I need to choose between a super 110 or 120, which one will be lighter, and less warm, beacause I'm buying online I can't feel the cloth. Thanks to anyone who will answer
@SPNKr16
2 жыл бұрын
Super 120. Should be thinner yarn and more open woven, tight weave causes more of a winter feel regardless of the weight.
So, anything over 100 is super?
"Is a lighter worsted wool better than a heavier weight?" No, it's worse.
@carltrotter7622
4 жыл бұрын
It all depends on the environment. For example, I live in Scotland and the colder climate here means that I prefer heavier fabrics. The side-advantage of this is that I get a fantastic drape. However, if I were ever to decide to pack up and move to the Bahamas, instead of wearing just linens or other summery-fabrics, I might still want to wear a traditional wool suit. However, I would need a lighter weight in fresco in order to have the same amount of 'breathability' in the fabric.
I like my super 80s wool suits
please get some monkstraps, Preston!
Hey! Good job on the video; that being said, might I suggest more attention or thought be put into the scripting? I just mean to say the narrative feels a bit all over the place rather than smoothly flowing. I am, however, just being picky of course.
I liked everything...super 120s enough for any ocassion
Should a wool suit be wrinkles proof?
@eiadsamkary6539
4 жыл бұрын
Gentelman's Gazette!!??
@SPNKr16
2 жыл бұрын
@@eiadsamkary6539 Yes. Go for Super 100 and down to Super 80.
Love the channel, however, at 06:08 the term "late 18th century" for describing this time period is incorrect...Lumb and Sons and the development of "supers" was the late 19th century as the 18th century lasted from January 1, 1701, to December 31, 1800, well before Lumb's time of manufacturing development of wool yarns...
nothing finer than Super 120, anything higher has no hand. I prefer fabric weight, 11 oz, 300 Gr. has the perfect drape
@eveliinatistelgren172
5 жыл бұрын
what does it mean hving no hand? English is not my language
@timcorrell9863
5 жыл бұрын
11 ounce fabric is 320 to 345 grams. 10 ounce fabric is 290 to 315 grams.
Super 120 Soft and durable enough for daily use.
Small nitpick - the place in Norfolk is spelt Worstead and it's a village, certainly not a city!
Is that you Kal-el?
Preston is great but you need to put a box under his left leg. It's bit a bit off putting how he stand at an angle.
Mr kingsmen 😎
He speaks and looks like a school teacher.
You certainly can pull off the black suit.