Super 130s, Super 160s : What do Super Numbers Mean?
Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль
In this new episode of Sartorial Talks, Hugo explains the origin and the meaning of the Super Numbers (S Numbers) in the world of quality fabrics.
This episode contrasts the old Bradford system (which qualified super Numbers by the number of 560 yards segments to be spun per pound) with the new system (from the 1960s) which measures with microscopes the maximum diameter of the wool fiber. See the chart in the video.
Thumbnail background credit : by VBC
Music :
"Over Under" / "Summer Day" / "Isolated" / "Montauk Point" by Kevin MacLeod at incompetech.com.
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
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Пікірлер: 358
Hugo can talk about an accounting software for 30 minutes and it'd still probably sound interesting. I love his videos.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Dear DT, thank you for saying so even if I'm not sure I would know what to say about an accounting software for 10 minutes !! Cheers, Hugo
I was just trying to research Super Numbers and then Hugo drops a 21 minute info-bomb on my head. feels good
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Hahaha I'm glad to read this. Right timing ! Hugo
Historian, philosopher, sartorial educator. Every gentleman in the world should be watching these videos.
@SARTORIALTALKS
Жыл бұрын
Very generous, thank you. Hugo
@arslongavitabrevis5136
4 ай бұрын
I do agree 100% with you!
I absolutely loved this video walking away from it feeling like an educated gentleman. Hugo is the man. All men should know these things. I’m feeling like I’ve been living under a rock not knowing/understanding this before. Keep up the great work Hugo you have blessed me with knowledge.
Your depth of knowledge is humbling. There is never a sense arrogance. Thanks for sharing.
Beautifully explained.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Khuno, it's not an easy subject for sure! Hugo
As a textile engineering student I honestly have to admit that this was one of the most interesting and most comprehensible lectures on this topic I've ever seen. I really appreciate your calm, educated and yet passionate and interesting way of presenting and the amount of work and time you put into this passion of yours is just phenomenal. Keep up the great work! Cheers, Nicolas
@Mister_Phafanapolis
3 жыл бұрын
Two years later: Where are you now in your textile engineering career?
My first suit I got was something like a super 160-180 and while it felt and looked like liquid silk, it was so delicate and thin that was much more prone to wear and didn't drape as nicely simply because a higher Super number is very likely going to be more flimsy. I was suckered into the marketing to be perfectly honest and held the common misconception that a higher number = better. Once I realized this, I saved that suit for special occasions. I definitely recommend most men to stick to 120's at most for their first suit since that initial suit is needed to be a versatile work-horse that you can wear very often. Lower numbers have a lot of major benefits including that they are less expensive, much less prone to wear and ripping, they are much more forgiving when it comes to drape (A high SN suit requires very good tailoring or it will likely show obvious wrinkling). I've also under the impression that a higher SN often means that the wool fibers are more closely woven together meaning that the fabric is less breathable and thus more prone to sweating than a lower number suit but I'll need your input on this, Hugo. Thanks
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Dear Krollic, thank you for your contribution to the debate. I globally agree with you even if the wool industry has recently made tremendous progress in termes of finishing and sturdiness (even for the Super Numbers). I would advise sticking in the Super120s - Super 150s range for "business suit", and if you really want to experience the sensation of a high quality fabrics, try a super 160s (which is, in my opinion, a the ideal number for super fine suiting. Above it's fragile and very difficult to maintain). Concerning your point of the yarns being woven closer together, it's not the case. The wool mills in Biella (Italy) for example are perfectly mastering the different kind of weaving processes and even a super high number (Super 180's and above) can offer open and very breathable weaves. Cheers, Hugo
@RWong-wn3pv
4 жыл бұрын
Holland & Sherry fan here. My first 4 (bespoken) suits, circa, 1979/1980. were solid blue, beige (British tan), med grey pencil stripe, grey herringbone, 2 pr suit pants, vest, jacket (full canvas). Back in the day, suit wearings were 5 to 6 days a week, business. So with the recommendations of the tailor, LESS than S 160’s were chosen.
@rastrats
3 жыл бұрын
But doesn't the wrinkling of the higher super numbers fibres add to the character of the suit? Walking around with a wrinkled super 160 suit sets a man apart as superior to lesser mortals whose super 100s unfortunately drape too perfectly.
@lisbetsoda4874
2 жыл бұрын
@@rastrats I disagree. Wrinkles are never more attractive than no wrinkles. We put up with them and have learned to accept them quite happily in linen because of its other advantages. But by all means, just keep walking around and feel superior in a rumpled wool suit. You won't be impressing anyone but yourself.
@paulmcgee1867
7 ай бұрын
@@rastratssure!
Another brilliant video, we couldn't expect anything less from you! A little time after delving into the sartorial world myself, i started being interested in fabrics, how they are made, where they are made, and what impact any different type of fabric could have on the final suit. I strongly believe that the fabric is the solid foundation of whatever we are discussing regarding suits. A gentleman needs to be aware of the technical aspects of his suit. A dedicated book on suit's raw materials would be a dream. Just imagine a book covering the history and image of a vast range of wool mills from Italy, from England, from France (and not only the big names) and how their products actually differentiate. A book covering sheep breeds "used" by the industry and what fiber characteristics each one provides, a book explaining in some detail how the fabric is constructed from the sheep to the final product. Then there are the different fibers, cotton, linen, mohair, cashmere. And then the different fabric weaves. Come on please, we can wait 3 or 4 years!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Haha, that's actually a very good idea. Let me consider it with my friends in Biella and in the UK. Cheers, Hugo
@scotthall9560
5 жыл бұрын
I agree with this! Sven Schneider mentioned in one of his videos about his favorite books that he has an old “dictionary of textile terms” that sounds like it might cover some of this. I haven’t been able to locate a copy.
This alone, this single video, places M. Jacomet into the history books of luxury menswear.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Dear John, this sounds like an overstatement, but I appreciate the compliment. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, I love your videos. I learn something new every time.
Fantastic talk! Thank you, Hugo.
I cant stop staring at the details of your suit. Amazing!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Dan ! It's a suit by Santandrea Milano. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you Hugo, as always, explained thoroughly with passion... I thoroughly appreciate these videos, high quality presentation that is a joy to watch. Much gratitude, J.C.
Very informative and helpful video, thank you very much Hugo. I have been looking for a good explanation like this. Keep up the excellent work!
Very educational experience. Thanks Hugo.
Hugo really rocks. I"ve just find this channel its awesome. This is the first time I understand these numbers!!! all my life has been marketted. Many thanks for share your knowledge.
I love it! Thank you for taking the time and explaining this to us!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for taking the time to comment! Hugo
Thank you for your videos. You’re a fantastic teacher.
Fantastic detail, great explanation. Thank you this was so helpful.
Another great video, very helpful and informative. Thanks.
As always, it’s a great pleasure watching this channel, education never ends… The part when is said that some factories elsewhere are making numbers by themselves - loved it hahah Thanks for existing guys, the World needs you!
Nice one Hugo. Most illuminating.
Amazing video, I'm so glad I found this channel. It's such a pleasure to hear you talk about the fine details of clothing.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Petter for your encouragements. Hugo
Excellent video, Hugo. I appreciate the superlative knowledge you have and are willing share with us. Thank you.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Ben ! Cheers, Hugo
Sonya and Hugo, thank you so much for the great content. Classic, elegant, timeless... You are a real Mensch, Hugo. Greetings from Israel
Muito obrigado, Hugo! Informações riquíssimas e muita transparência
Thank You Hugo. I enjoyed it very much.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
My pleasure ! Hugo
Love your knowledge Hugo! Thank you, I learn a lot through your videos!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
I'm so happy to read this ! Many thanks, Hugo
Many thanks Hugo for another brilliant video.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
You are very welcome. Hugo
You addressed all the points in one video and it’s so good. Thank you and please continue Monsieur
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
We will continue for sure my friend. We have recorded 10 new episodes already ! Cheers, Hugo
Very good explanation. I appreciate the history and the details you provided. Thank you!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Waltski ! Hugo
Hugo - one of five people on my bucket list to have dinner with. And much red wine! And his lovely wife!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Why not Bob! Let's make it happen. Best, Hugo & Sonya
Another extremely intelligent and well articulated video by and outstanding Gentleman. Thank you.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you William for your kind words and encouragements. Hugo
Wow, love your talks, I'm learning, thanks
These videos get better and better. Perfect and understandable explanation. That suit Hugo had on was beautiful - and the tie was cool too.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Mister Smith for your appreciation and encouragements! The suit is from Santandrea Milano with a Super 180s wool from Loro Piana. Hugo
Learned a TON here. Best video I have ever seen describing the Super numbers and what goes into them.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Kirwin for your appreciation ! Hugo
superb explanation! it always calms my mind hearing you speak mr hugo.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
I'm glad to read this. Thank you, Hugo
Fascinating, Hugo. Great video.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks Alexander ! Hugo
Wow that was very interesting and such a great detailed explanation. Great delivery I now understand the differences!
Excellent video and best explanation that I have heard or read. Thank you and best regards from Prague!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks Marek and best regards from Paris. Hugo
Extremely informative. Thanks for the excellent content and look forward to more!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your consideration and we'll provide more for sure. Hugo
It is very important the service you provide for men with videos precisely like this one. Many thanks.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
My pleasure Mr Hampton. Greetings from France, Hugo
Great, great presentation. Besides all the useful information there is a direct and sincere explanation. The history behind the "s" will be worthy of telling with friends.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks Carlos for your kind words. Best, Hugo
Great stuff as usual Hugo , video by video , I feel further and further enlightened as a man . Thank you .
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
I'm so glad to read this. Thank you ! Hugo
Wish you made more videos. They are always so informative and detailed.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
We try our best, but as Sartorial Talks are free to watch but not free (at all) to produce, we can't do more than 2 per month for now. But it may change in the future.... Stay tuned ! Hugo
super fine knowledge you share to us and it makes one more realize to me that to be gentleman, we must learn, thanks a lot Hugo
This is so eye opening! Love connecting the history of a thing to its daily use. Puts it in perspective. In retrospect, the wools super number only matters insomuch that you want a lighter weight fabric. Maybe ideal for suits worn in the summer.
i have never seen or heard anyone explained with simplicity and accuracy what we need to know about a fabrics quality levels, what the title of each level means, what each level offer to the buyer and what are the goods and bads of each one, and finally... what is best to choose depending on the use... u r amazing! ty for been so detailed and honest!!! also ty for pointing out that there are scammers who just print a label thats says "super"and attach it to the suit... like local city fabrics around the world
Probably the most informative video I’ve seen regarding super
Perfetto! Thank you so much for the great explanation, Sig. Jacomet.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
My pleasure. Abbraccio, Hugo
Hello Hugo, Big Thank-you to your kind sharing of your fruit of research on the Super Number. Theoretical and pragmatical at the same time! Cheers! Kind regards, Barry Lau
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your kind word Barry ! Cheers, Hugo
Very valuable information. Thank you Sir 🙏
Absolutely helpful. You are right, it is impossible to really understand this just by doing internet research. Thank you again for your wonderful explanations and videos.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Ross for your appreciation and support. Cheers, Hugo
This video provides top quality information and saved me from huge time of research! Thanks!
@SARTORIALTALKS
4 жыл бұрын
You are very welcome Yannis. Hugo
Very informative video presented on a very entertaining way! Thank you!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for commenting. Hugo
Watched this video almost a year ago, watched it again and learned more the 2nd time around than I did the first time. Even appreciated it more as well rewatching it. My education of understanding of the Wool Fabric has increased and thus the care I need to pay attention to the different types of Wool Trousers I have and how I wear them. I never thought I’d appreciate videos like this, but because I have seen and understand I can care about how I buy and take care of my cloth fabric more. Maybe Hugo can explain Gabardine Wool at some point.
it is very clear and good presentation about wool. I have learned more from you. thank you sir
Knowledge is life. Big sufi love from Blackburn 🇬🇧 I bought 4metres of super 160's, 60inch wide, an sewed my own Salawar Kameez suit. I feel like I'm standing inside a thin cloud.
An Exquisite Masterclass by Hugo.
@SARTORIALTALKS
4 жыл бұрын
Thank you Christopher, Hugo
Very informative video. Thanks Hugo.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
My pleasure ! Cheers, Hugo
Very very well explained. I have some super 120 wool suits, so I can definitely tell feeling the fabric how fine or finesse the wool feels.
Great. Well and easy explained. Thanks for sharing
Yet another incredibly informative discussion... I've learned so much in 20 minutes to cut through the marketing.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for this comment and for your consideration. Hugo
brilliant video.. = super1000s information, will have to watch again just to take it all in. Thanks Hugo
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
My pleasure Gerry and thank you for your support. Hugo
Outstanding video! That's how you educate! I feel powerful!!!!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
I'm glad to read this Rene, Hugo
many many thanks, I just ordered a bespoke suit, with keep in mind what you have shared, very nice indeed!
Thanks Hugo. Very informative.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
You are very welcome Russ ! Hugo
As someone that it’s just getting started into this suit world I really appreciate this video.
This is fantastic information. Thank you for these informative video shorts! I am saving up for my first bespoke, but in the meantime I am selectively buying high quality vintage and tailoring to fit well.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Excellent ! Cheers, Hugo
Finally! Thank you so much for providing what may be the internet's first & only explanation for this.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Dear Troy, I don't know if it's the first, but I'm glad you enjoyed it. Hugo
Supreme! Excellent! Great knowledge! Well said
Thanks for cutting through all the “merde” and providing great information. Love this channel
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Merci David ! Bien amicalement, Hugo
I am working on starting my own MTM company in the mid-west, and your books with both be on display in my shop once I get one. (Few years down the road right now.) This is such a helpful video because finding this kind of info is hard to find because it seems to always comes from a sales person in one way or another. Best menswear resource on the internet!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Oh thank you so much for your kind words and appreciation. Best of luck for your MTM company ! Hugo
Wonderful information….beautifully explained….thanks maestro….
Thank you for these explanations !
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
My pleasure Andrea! Hugo
Hugo, you have helped me once again. I am on my fourth Bespoke suit and your council has helped me in making my choice for fabrics, colours and style. Lord bless you brother and thank you!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
I'm so glad to read it's been useful for you. God bless you too my friend, Hugo
A very technical video which I have to repeat some segments several times, yet very educational. I've rarely saw any super numbers around the market here in Indonesia, because most markets offer local fabrics with no specification details. Though I've found them once in a textile convention, which are super expensive and hearing the maintenance cost already making my bank account cries. Maybe, except for someone who is really dedicated to sartorial elegance, super numbers doesn't really matter at all, but rather how the fabric can take the wear throughout time. It's just a type of luxury you maybe can boasts on to your peers.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Dear Rio, you can have very beautiful (and sturdy) fabrics that are not Super numbers. I have a few suits in my wardrobe with these kind of fabrics and I am very happy with them. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you for this info. Great content!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
You are very welcome Diego. Hugo
Hogo has been just enlightened my understanding further about super numbers on fabric. Once you see these numbers on the label you may not appreciate the texture and quality of the fabric. Amazing clarity here..
Great job on explaining the Super 100's!!
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you Mason for your appreciation. Hugo
Thank you for your nice explanation.
Very informative video! Thank you very much sir.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
You are very welcome GF. Hugo
Merci pour cette capsule, toujours aussi bien articulée et informative.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Merci à vous ! Hugo
Merci pour cette vidéo très enrichissante !
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Merci pour votre commentaire ! Hugo
Hugo, Thanks for sharing info.
Many thanks, sir as usual.
Informative & Classy as always
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Thank you sir. Hugo
Very good explanation
Very informative, thank you. 🇨🇦
I had one suit made in Scabal Summit Super 250's. The fabric was extremely smooth looking, but the weight wasn't too different from any other suit. It was certainly unique looking, but in no way justifiable of the massive price premium, over say "regular" Super 200's. In fact, I think that once you pass Super 180's, the returns are very diminishing, and should be judged on an individual basis. Same goes with pure cashmere - some fabrics look and feel absolutely stunning in person (not sure what Kiton uses, but their 100% Cashmere stuff looks gorgeous in person), while others look like a small notch above regular fine wool. Unless you're a baller that doesn't mind shelling out 5 - 10 grand alone in premium fabrics, I'd say that Super 150's - 180's is the sweet-spot for "nice" fabrics. Obviously depends on the fabric makers, too.
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Dear Jonathan, thank you for your insightful comment and contribution. I totally agree with you. For me Super160s is my "Go-To" luxury fabric (although I also have some Super180S and Super 210s). And you are also right about the makers. I've experienced first hand some pure cashmere that was just "ok" and some other which hand was absolutely delightful. Cheers, Hugo
@nuru441
2 жыл бұрын
I’ve just got a super 160s merino wool, honestly it feels amazing. And I love it
Wow. Finally I get the correct answer. Makes so much sense. Thank you.
Thank you 😎 Sartorial Talks is helping me to avoid spending money toward a direction that I would later regret 💸
Slowly falling in love with good suits and this Video and Chanel is Gold. Hugo when you were explaining at one point you called the woolen fabric "she",shows how much you love it . Amazing content. Subscribed
@SARTORIALTALKS
Жыл бұрын
I appreciate your subscription and your kind words. Hugo
Toujours intéressant, merci
@SARTORIALTALKS
5 жыл бұрын
Avec plaisir. Hugo
Very good explanation, thanks
@SARTORIALTALKS
Жыл бұрын
Thanks Enrique, Hugo
When I saw the title I though it was a Numberphile video.
@longbeachjjh
4 жыл бұрын
I had the exact same reaction!
Thanks Mr Jacomet !!
You Rock Hugo.. 🤘🏼
Hello Hugo, I bought a beautiful zegna super 180s navy blazer, i got it second hand but it looks new, the color is gorgeous the fabric looks like silk and drapes beautifully and the tailoring of Zegna was almost perfect I did not have to hardly any tailoring to get that custom fit look and feel. I am convinced that of all store brands Zegna is naturally perfect for slim and athletic men, it drapes beautifully and accents the natural male figure. I have also tried the other top brands Kiton, Brioni, Hugo Boss, Canali and Zegna fits my body type the best, these other brands are nice but the fabric Zegna uses is exquisite and I am convinced that a Zegna suit or blazer is the next best thing to a fully bespoke suit. Zegna makes their own in house fabrics, their wools are finished beautifully and their attention to detail, stitching and tailoring are snug, whereas the other top of the line brands listed above are very nice but more boxy and not as tailored and the fabrics just not quite as silky and soft as Zegna.