Why do Lapel Size and Shape Matter?

Тәжірибелік нұсқаулар және стиль

Okey explains how the right lapel size, gorge height and line give your jacket proportion and balance, presenting your natural shape and stature in their best light. Extending, raising or widening the lapels of your jacket will make you look taller or shorter, wider or slimmer and can enhance the overall fit and look of your clothes. The AskOkey jacket is designed with a relatively high gorge, standard 3.5 inch notch lapels. AskOkey's tailors will cut the lapels to best suit the measurements that you send us to ensure perfect proportions and fit.
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Пікірлер: 96

  • @goofyfandango1312
    @goofyfandango13122 жыл бұрын

    This is a unbelievably underrated channel.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Goofy. As Abraham Lincoln once said … “I shall prepare myself. And perhaps my chance will come”. We do what we do with excellence. Let success meet us where it will. Till then, we continue to give you our best. PROFF

  • @W2epeacedog

    @W2epeacedog

    3 ай бұрын

    I agree

  • @spaghettiking7312
    @spaghettiking73128 ай бұрын

    Wow. Real trousers, real lapels, a real jacket length. Nice to see, my friend.

  • @AmusedKelpie-tc9du
    @AmusedKelpie-tc9du6 ай бұрын

    You saved me from getting rid of a well loved navy blazer because the lapel width is 3.75 in.,not the standard 3.5in. 😊...

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    3 ай бұрын

    With great pleasure sir 😁 Welcome aboard

  • @cap4life1
    @cap4life15 ай бұрын

    These videos could benefit from more visual inserts and diagrams. The info is incredible!! But KZread is a visual medium so the explanations should not just be verbal but visual with lots of different moving images and camera angles.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    5 ай бұрын

    Duly noted 😁 This was one of our very early productions. More recent videos contain more visuals

  • @ruliadultra
    @ruliadultra2 жыл бұрын

    Excellent lesson once again. You dropped several gems of information, not only about classic lapel dimensions, gorge height, but also about the correct way to put on a jacket. Your trousers are truly immaculate and I was nearly drooling over the beautiful trouser break. Well done to you and the team sir.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Mighty Kam. Are you already following on Instagram? @askokeyig

  • @ruliadultra

    @ruliadultra

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc Not yet because I do not have an Instagram account but I intend to create a Discord account and will join the server once I do.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    @@ruliadultra Fantastic! Please do. The link is in the description box below the videos. PROFF

  • @Cliffhanger437
    @Cliffhanger4374 ай бұрын

    Okey, your knowledge about tailoring and clothing is simply excellent, thorough, and go to the micro details. As for your prices, i simply don't afford it.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    4 ай бұрын

    Understood Cliff. Our prices reflect the quality and effort that go into the product sir

  • @raheemmukhepera3697
    @raheemmukhepera36972 ай бұрын

    This is excellent…I’m in my 40’s and I wished that these things were taught to me. Never too late to learn …and now I can pass these timeless lessons onto my son.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 ай бұрын

    ABSOLUTELY Raheem 💯 Better late than never 😁

  • @scottmarkey1481
    @scottmarkey14812 жыл бұрын

    This is a topic rarely talked about, but the "Proff" once again giving a masterclass on style! Best knowledge as well as the best dressed man on the planet. (AskOkey) clothes are a sartorial dream!🙏

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Scottie! You know how we do. Watch this SPACE! PROFF

  • @ravishingrick13
    @ravishingrick132 жыл бұрын

    Great episode, I learned a lot today. This channel is for me hands down the best resource on classical menswear on YT. Thanks for sharing the knowledge!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Ravishing Rick! Means a lot to us. We put a lot of love into what we do at AskOkey. Pls also follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and on Tik-Tok @askokey PROFF

  • @Suzyfromtheblock
    @Suzyfromtheblock9 ай бұрын

    The nice thing about the prof, he does respond to comments, he’s out there 😃

  • @maxwellgarrison2983
    @maxwellgarrison298324 күн бұрын

    I think something important to consider for very tall gentleman is the the three-button coat. I think I first see the style in the 1910s where it seems to work quite elegantly, and today, to wear a three-button is a huge faux-pas. I think the three-button coat worked so well in the 1910, because the ideal man was a tall lanky 5'10", for the time (anyone who has dealt with garments from the era will immediately see how small they were). Whereas today, that is average. When most men are around that height, the short lapels and high stance of the three-button look off relative to everyone else. But I think, if my clients are over 6'2", depending on their build, it is some I would consider having made in their suits.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    23 күн бұрын

    I agree Max 💯 I always recommend a TRUE 3-BUTTON to my tall customers Thank you for pointing this out 🔥

  • @maxwellgarrison2983

    @maxwellgarrison2983

    23 күн бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc Of course, Prof! And with confidence. We are going to bring it back! Cheers from America, where some of my clients are so interested in the real and incredibly elegant tradition of suiting!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    21 күн бұрын

    @@maxwellgarrison2983 Well said Max 🔥

  • @MrMarcoberti98
    @MrMarcoberti982 жыл бұрын

    Now that's real expertise. Very insightful and inspiring, thanks Proff!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Grazi Marco Caro. I know you’re always paying attention in class (on the blog) 😁. Stay tuned for more premium content from AskOkey. PROFF

  • @KonstantinGanchin
    @KonstantinGanchin10 ай бұрын

    Best lapel video I have watched! Thank you!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    10 ай бұрын

    THANK YOU Konstantin 🙌🏾 Please take some time to view our entire video library here on KZread. You’ll be equally enlightened. Welcome to AskOkey Sir! PROFF

  • @prancingkash
    @prancingkash8 ай бұрын

    Thank you so much for this informative video. Love it.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    8 ай бұрын

    With great pleasure Kashish 🙌🏾 PROFF

  • @freddecker2407
    @freddecker24079 ай бұрын

    Thank you for an informative video!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    9 ай бұрын

    Thank you dear Fred 🙌🏾 Welcome to AskOkey sir 😁 PROFF

  • @johnstephenandrew
    @johnstephenandrew2 жыл бұрын

    Fabulous informative videos Okey. Masterclass in sartorial dressing in every episode, your content inspires, motivates and gives us knowledgeable direction in our menswear journey.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you John. Pleas don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig

  • @gabe6498
    @gabe64984 ай бұрын

    This man is a pure treasure.

  • @drumminnerd1
    @drumminnerd1Ай бұрын

    This guy saved my wedding.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Ай бұрын

    I’m delighted Joseph 🔥

  • @tatendaphiri5007
    @tatendaphiri50072 жыл бұрын

    Another great episode, thank you for your continued preaching of the gospel of classic menswear

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you lil’ bro! See you on the blog. Also follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and on Tik-Tok @askokey PROFF

  • @rsevp179
    @rsevp1793 ай бұрын

    Great Video!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    3 ай бұрын

    Thank you EVP Welcome aboard 😁

  • @korneliuspatterson399
    @korneliuspatterson3992 жыл бұрын

    Amazing knowledge

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Kornelius. And welcome to AskOkey. Please be sure to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig. PROFF

  • @TheLeadEagle
    @TheLeadEagle2 жыл бұрын

    Excellent Professor! Major

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you Major! We miss you on the blog. PROFF

  • @mohammedalshehhi3868
    @mohammedalshehhi3868 Жыл бұрын

    Thanks ❤

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    Most welcome Mohammed. And welcome to AskOkey sir. Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

  • @TeslaRules1856
    @TeslaRules18564 ай бұрын

    In understand the half rule now, thank you. Is there a general jacket size rule to match lapel size. That something that says jackets 32-38 2.75 - 3", 42-48 3.25- 3.5", 50+ 4" ?

  • @davidjarnot8548
    @davidjarnot85487 ай бұрын

    Hi Okey. I really enjoy watching your channel and am always fascinated by how much I learn. You're also probably the best dressed guy I've ever seen. But I think in this episode you use the word 'Vertically Challeged' to describe a short person. Now if you're short and are offended at the word short or small you really are going to struggle in life. I personally don't mind it at all. However when I hear you say vertically Challeged' I did find it quite offensive (I could write for an hour about why it's offensive but I appreciate both of our time) 😂. I Googled the phrase and this is the response ... "According to the Diversity Style Guide, remarks that include “midget” or “vertically challenged” are highly offensive and outdated, reminiscent of “the height of the 'freak show' era” when people with dwarfism were displayed for public amusement." So I would really thank you to try not to use the phrase moving forward as I still really enjoy your channel and plan on continuing to watch ever episode. Thanks Okey. Vertically absent would be fine I think if you want to expand your vocabulary.

  • @romisunga1
    @romisunga14 ай бұрын

    Was there a reason why you turn your coat inside out before placing it on the table?

  • @Solis_Occasum
    @Solis_Occasum2 жыл бұрын

    The tie looks great. Where is it from sir ?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Thank you James. From EG CAPPELLI of Napoli. Pls follow us on Instagram @askokeyig and Tik-Tok @askokey. PROFF

  • @samyguerroury8980
    @samyguerroury8980 Жыл бұрын

    20:46 I don't think that, but I like your honesty. Thanks for the video

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    Please clarify Sam. You don’t like skinny lapels or you like them? 😁 Thank you for chiming in and welcome to AskOkey. Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

  • @samyguerroury8980

    @samyguerroury8980

    Жыл бұрын

    @AskOkey I thought that the size of the lapels depended on the morphology of the person. So if a person is like me (1m68cm And 54-55 kilograms, athletic), the lapels shouldn't be wide and low. I thought that it can accentuate the unflattering characteristics of the body. Thanks anyway, your videos give me good inspiration.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    @@samyguerroury8980 No one size fits all Sammy. If you’re 168cm and athletic, you should wear a slightly higher than average (Classic) gorge. However, lapel size IMHO should still be close to classic (3.5”). Maybe 3.25” if you’re slight of build. Welcome to AskOkey. PROFF

  • @abdullahiqbal7685
    @abdullahiqbal7685 Жыл бұрын

    You didn’t address the basic question. How does width affect visual perception? You talked about effects of length and gorge height. But not the width

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    Good evening Abdullah. I believe I’ve previously address this issue in several videos in our IG archives The width of the lapel should be AT, or just a bit over half way across the chest. This yields the best proportions in my own experience. Are you following us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

  • @kelvinadelakun2232
    @kelvinadelakun2232 Жыл бұрын

    Hello okey… I noticed you cut the tip of your measuring tape.. any reason for that?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    No sir. Most likely an old measuring tape 😁. Welcome to AskOkey! PROFF

  • @shalli161
    @shalli16110 ай бұрын

    Came across this channel just today, and I am hooked. I need this kind of detailed knowledge on tailoring. I do have a question though: to give the illusion of wide shoulders/chest, do you recommend wider than 3.5 inches of lapel?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    10 ай бұрын

    You’re ABSOLUTELY WELCOME Muhammad. Illusion of width at the shoulder is derived from a combination of elements on the coat. 1. The shoulders have to be cut with an “EXTENSION” beyond the natural shoulder line. 2. The Chest MUST be BUILT UP with basting and a DRAPED CHEST 3. The above TWO allow for SUPPRESSION in the waist which make the shoulders appear even LARGER and STRONGER It is this combination of THREE that allows us to CARVE a STRONG looking figure for even those not naturally gifted with STRONG SHOULDERS Welcome to AskOkey Muhammad 😁 PROFF

  • @nicolasescobar398
    @nicolasescobar398 Жыл бұрын

    I have one question that’s intrigues me . How much of the square pocket should the lapel cover ? It’s any rule ? Obviously not cover all the pocket but maybe 3/4 it’s bad?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    That’s a good question Nicolas. In my opinion, there is no rule per se. It all depends on the shape of the lapel. But the aim is to have a lapel not so large that it covers the pocket altogether. After all you want your pocket square showing a little bit. Welcome to AskOkey. Are you following us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

  • @nicolasescobar398

    @nicolasescobar398

    Жыл бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc thanks for the answer ! And of course I’m following you on Instagram

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    @@nicolasescobar398 Thank you Nicolas 🙏🏾

  • @toobalkain
    @toobalkain Жыл бұрын

    only this jacket doesn't go half way to the shoulder seam, it's probably closer to 80%. The jacket worn in this video also looks a fair bit too long even for British tailoring, it7s supposed to cover the seat, not extend half way to the knees. Gorgeous shirt collar, what shirt is it?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you sir! Jacket length is not just arbitrary. It has to do with the overall silhouette. Our own “AskOkey House Cut” have longer jackets than this. Why? Because they are worn with FULL CUT TROUSERS. Covering your ass is just half the story. There’s also BALANCE & HARMONY with the trousers. PROFF

  • @toobalkain

    @toobalkain

    Жыл бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc Thank you. I know it's not arbitrary, I'm not disputing your expertise, I'm just not sure this silhouette is the best possible one, to my eye it makes you look shorter and while it might be OK on your 6 foot relatively athletic frame, such a long jacket probably wouldn't flatter a shorter, more rotund gentleman. There's a fashion towards shorter jackets these days but I'm not talking Thom Browne, just regular Italian length as opposed to a bit longer British style. Similar with the trousers, to my eye a break on such a wide cut makes the look appear a little dated. You seem to be going for a bit of a vintagey style but again, I'm not convinced it will work for the physique of the average man in his 40s or 50s these days.

  • @rogerr.8507

    @rogerr.8507

    Жыл бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc I do like those trousers though!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    @@rogerr.8507 Thank you Roger. Welcome to AskOkey. Do you follow us on Instagram? @askokeyig PROFF

  • @jaschaprincipe4519
    @jaschaprincipe45196 ай бұрын

    Should the width of a peak lapel of a single breasted jacket still be the same as a notch lapel? Or should it be a tad bit wider?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    6 ай бұрын

    NO Jascha! ALWAYS WIDER 💯 A peak lapel whether on SB or DB should be wider than a notch lapel

  • @jaschaprincipe4519

    @jaschaprincipe4519

    6 ай бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc Would a width of a 4.5 - 4.75 inches be a good width then for a peak lapel SB?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    6 ай бұрын

    @@jaschaprincipe4519 I’d say so .. 🔥

  • @amitlahiri2190
    @amitlahiri2190 Жыл бұрын

    😍😍😍😍

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    Thank you Amit! Keep on going 😁Lots of great content on here … PROFF

  • @AM-ss4uq
    @AM-ss4uq Жыл бұрын

    Thank you for the tips. Am i trippin or one side of your coat is slightly longer, no?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    You may have a point. I have a dropped left shoulder. This is an old jacket from my Neapolitan tailor. I believe he didn’t correct for my dropped shoulder hence the imbalance. Have a look at our own “In House” more recent cuts at www.AskOkey.com/shop Or Instagram @askokeyig Thank you. PROFF

  • @AM-ss4uq

    @AM-ss4uq

    Жыл бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc my bad! Jacket looks amazing nevertheless. Thanks for the good tips! Cant wait to apply them to my next bespoke suit!

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    @@AM-ss4uq Welcome sir! PROFF

  • @MTMT-wm2dq
    @MTMT-wm2dq3 ай бұрын

    Can I know what is your height and weight ?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    3 ай бұрын

    6’ 1” 88kg

  • @bryanb8868
    @bryanb88682 ай бұрын

    imo you look way better in that Napolitan jacket than you do in your own more oversized garments

  • @user-jo2zh3br9x
    @user-jo2zh3br9x4 күн бұрын

    🇹🇭🇦🇪

  • @TheRacso2552
    @TheRacso25522 жыл бұрын

    I mean, maybe it has a great personality?

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    2 жыл бұрын

    Hi Hepp, can you elaborate? What are you referring to in your comment? re: Personality. The lapel size? It will guide me in answering your question. PROFF

  • @rogerr.8507

    @rogerr.8507

    Жыл бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc he is comparing "...does size and shape matter?" with a fat chick or unsightly woman with a redeeming personality... So its a joke.

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    Жыл бұрын

    @@rogerr.8507 I’m just gonna take the 5th on that one Roger 😅 Welcome once again to AskOkey. Don’t forget to follow us on Instagram @askokeyig PROFF

  • @kungenftww
    @kungenftww8 ай бұрын

    Vertically challenged haha I always like funny ppl that dnt realize it😂😂

  • @JuanHugeJanus
    @JuanHugeJanus10 ай бұрын

    To be honest... your lapel on your blazer is too big for you and the shoulder width is too wide to

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    10 ай бұрын

    Point well taken Juan. Lapels are on the larger side (Neapolitan) but not off. A matter of preference. Shoulders seem fine to me. Welcome to AskOkey Sir! PROFF

  • @JuanHugeJanus

    @JuanHugeJanus

    10 ай бұрын

    @@AskOkeyInc If you have wide shoulders, as you say you have nothing beats an unconstructed blazer so we really can see your masculine (sexy) contour. Your lapels covers 3/4 of your shoulder width and then they come very close to a caricature ;-). Just 1 cm is very much

  • @AskOkeyInc

    @AskOkeyInc

    10 ай бұрын

    @@JuanHugeJanus Noted Sir 😁

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