Like the workbench? Watch me make it here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/eIx_u9mGYMmbh7g.html&t

Really great vids! One tip which I haven't seen posted is: To determine if your water stones have any low spots when you are flattening them with a diamond plate, put a crisscrossing grid of pencil marks across them (something like ¼” to ½” spacing). After a couple of passes on the plate, the pencil marks will be removed except in the low spots. So, if any marks remain, you need to keep going. It’s a very quick and easy way to minimize the amount of stone you need to remove.

Having declared my dissatisfaction with this sharpener last night kzread.infoUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ I thought about the problem some more. It occurred to me that I might be undoing each attempt at achieving a sharp edge by the repeated attempts. So, I tried to clean up the unsatisfactory result by honing with only positions 3 and 4.Miracle!! A really nicely sharpened chef's knife, more than enough to handle my needs. Admittedly, it did not reach professionally sharpened razor-fineness, but it is now significantly sharper than it was. A bout of breaking down carrots convinced me. So, major apologies to the manufacturer, Amazon, and all happy and potential owners! Follow the directions: don't buy it if you have ceramic blades; and don't overwork your knife blade.

For a beginner like me, this was one of the most convincing videos. Thanks for sharing.

Great Stuff Matt. Way to start a war with a tool duel!

@tube4waldek

6 жыл бұрын

No more wars, please! In whatever way, shape or form. Ever.

@lukewhite9237

5 жыл бұрын

@@tube4waldek it's a joke calm down

Float glass is manufactured currently by allowing the molten glass to 'float' across a molten tin 'bath'. The plant I worked for maintained a molten tin bath that was 130 inches wide and ran almost a 1/4 of a mile in length. LOF Plant #10, Lathrop, Calif. Your welcome.

"As flat as the curvature of the earth" for some, That's a completely different debate 😂

@erickirby8220

4 жыл бұрын

I didnt understand there is no curve on this beautiful flat earth

@scwyldspirit

4 жыл бұрын

Water will always find it's level

@rowanfernsler9725

4 жыл бұрын

The earth is curved, yes, but because it’s so big the curvature is very minimal.

@123macks

4 жыл бұрын

Lol flat

@123macks

4 жыл бұрын

Gravity no even real

Thank you for contrasting sharpening methods and stones. You made the subject a bit more understandable to me. FWIW: Float glass was originally manufactured, as I recall from my Roman history reads, by gently pouring hot melted glass into a pot of hot melted lead. (Glaziers back then must have had rather short lives.) The lead temp was held at or near the same temperature as the melted glass to minimize temperature gradient shocks during the pour. Because the lead was liquid, the surface is flat, and thus, the glass product came out flat. After the pour the lead is allowed to cool, which cools down the glass until usable. The density of the metallic bath must be greater than that of the glass so the glass floats on it and does not sink to the bottom... so hot water glass floats are out of the question. The shape of the vessel dictates the shape of the finished glass product, but edges are trued a bit and sanded and made marketable. Nowadays, they use modern production methods that employ safer, engineered metal solutions to have (probably) better-to-purpose parameters.

@sofiadragon6520

2 жыл бұрын

My hometown industry is glass and they make float glass pretty much the same way they did back in Roman days. They use a tin alloy instead of lead for the obvious reasons. Also, glass is not liquid enough to pour until about 1300°C or so. Density isn't the only reason water won't work 😉. The metal stays molten long after the glass has slowly cooled into a solid enough sheet to remove without warping it, so the still-liquid metal is drained or the glass pushed off the top so the metal can be used again without ever solidifying to save on energy costs.

I am really enjoying your videos. A great practical approach to something that can get so over complicated.

You are the only person who I find to have a great common sense and well explained.

This really cleared things up for me. Thanks a lot.

Matt, thank you for a well-done video. Although I’m pretty familiar with these sharpening systems, I enjoy your opinions and your presentation. I’m sure you inspire lots of folks. It is however sad that there are people who get pleasure in finding fault, anonymously claim superior knowledge, or just plain spout negativity. I do hope you are not too sensitive to these reactions. Just look at it as entertainment. After reading all the comments here, I’d feel proud to have earned so much positive feedback. Best of luck!

Well put together video as usual 👍

Matt with the glass and sandpaper you have to be very careful in placing the paper. Took me many many attempts before I was able to place it and not get tears in it. When you place it hold it up to window and if you see air bubbles in it you will get tear out. I have held them up to light bulb light and could not see them but in natural light they stand out easier. If you can do it without getting bubbles you can sharpen a needle on it without tearing into it. But with bubbles just the size of the head of a needle the blade will catch. You can also use just a back stroke, or use side to side strokes. Even on stones unless the cheap profiling stones, I do not use a push stroke as it wears the stones on a guess 20-30% faster.

I've been using my oilstone as a professional Cabinet Maker for 35 years. I bought it at a flea-market for about £5. It's given me excellent results, sharpening for just a few minutes at a time. So long as you get a burr, and flatten off the back, you're there. I've only had to flatten it twice! You don't need float glass to flatten a stone. Just put a sheet of good quality coarse abrasive (like 80 grit SAIT brand or something) on the bed of your machine tool (planer/joiner, table saw whatever). If you want you can hold it down with double sided tape. My oilstone takes about 20 minutes to 1/2 hour to flatten like that (and it's a really hard stone). When you're sharpening, if the stone 'glazes over' your oil is too thick. You just want a thin oil like 3 in 1 or WD40 (or mix the 2??). Then it works just like a waterstone - but you don't have to flatten it after every use! You don't need a designated area for sharpening with oilstones. Mine is in a mahogany box with a lid, I made myself. I put a screw going through the box, to leave the points projecting by about 2mm, at each corner. Put it on the bench, and it won't move around as the screw points dig in to the bench slightly. No damp towels/non slip mats etc necessary. If there's oil everywhere, you're using too much oil!!! Once it's saturated with oil, you just need a little tiny squirt of fresh oil for every sharpening job. When it's hot weather, you often find you don't even need that, as the oil rises to the surface. Wipe it clean after use. And yes your hands will get a bit dirty/oily after every sharpen, but guess what? There's a solution to that, it's called 'washing your hands' - presumably you'd do the same after sharpening with a waterstone/diamond stone (if not, shame on you)? I have recently started stropping after sharpening, and that is like the icing on the cake. Superfine edge! Just a piece of leather glued to a piece of wood (again with screws in the corner) rubbed with jewelers rouge cutting compound (cheap as chips on Amazoff). Sharpening and stropping my 1" bench chisel takes about 30 seconds literally. Mind you I don't faff about with a honing guide. You've obviously heard lots of 'cons' of oilstones from people. Some of whom might want to sell you some lovely new diamond stones/waterstones etc, perhaps?

Hey, Matt - Thank you so much for making these videos! I just picked up a 600/1200 diamond sharpener and honing guide today. A very kind fellow sent me a Stanley #4 plane and am going to use these after making your protrusion guide to get the plane iron sharp again. And my chisels...they need a LOT of work. Anyway, I really appreciate your sharing your knowledge with us!!!!!

Thanks Matt, you're a brilliant teacher! Great detail and clear summary. On this basis, I've just ordered the Axminster Rider Sharpening Station which seems to embody your key recommendations. I look forward to having sharp tools!

In order to judge how good a method is, you almost have to use it for a year and learn to use it well (which means being able to refresh a plane iron in about a minute and a half including disassembly of a double iron, and a minute or so for a chisel). I started with soft waterstones, went to hard waterstones, and have ended up with natural waterstones and mostly oilstones. There is no set of modern waterstones that will outwork an IM313 with oil, a medium crystolon, a fine india and a medium oilstone (like a dan's "hard" - not a true hard, just a hard). If there is a desire for fast stones, going coarser is smarter than trying to find a "fine and fast" stone. If you feel you need a fast stone, you need to do better work with the coarser stones. The fine stones are about control. You can get good with any of the methods, though, and a trade cabinetmaker with king stones would be faster and more consistent than a hobbyist with the best thing they could find.

Thanks Matt, I've been enjoying your channel alot these days. I've found that a honing guide on a DMT 1200x Diasharp followed by a strop gets me a consistent and sharp edge quickly. If I need to take off more material to reset a bevel I just use 600x or more course wet dry sandpaper on a machined and polished granite tile. I never have to flatten the diasharp like you would a stone and the Diasharp has been in use for years and I use it to sharpen all my kitchen knives and woodworking tools and it still works like new. Likely I could arrive at a razor sharp edge with fewer strokes on the strop if I added the diasharp 8000x to my workflow, but I've found there are diminishing returns when you aim for perfect razor sharp edge. A razor or scalpel sharp edge doesn't stick around very long regardless of the steel the blade is made of. I find I spend less time sharpening if I'm careful to be aware or what the tool feels like when it is starting to loose it's edge and sharpen or strop it often. I aim to maintain a passible "very sharp" on the edge most of the time rather than always chasing razor sharp. I find this approach works for me.

Very useful video Matt.

Thanks a lot! This one video helped me a lot

Thanks for the tips. I relied on KZread for woodworking tips. And your tips is the must read ones!

Excellent presentation, thanks !

I like your kick ass attitude, backed by good knowledge.thank you for your advice.

Thanks for confirming a previous buying decision, Matt. I use the Rider diamond stone and three of the scary papers. Even my cheapo Dewalt chisels are like mirrored razors.

Just found your videos and think they straight, honest and enthusiastic, great. One point about diamond stones. You mentioned they clog but you didn't talk about lubricant on them. Most seem to think they work better with a spray of water and I have even been told of using WD40.Another point is using lots of water in a very small workshop (also known as a shed) close to electrical plugs etc bit iffy and where space is limited a separate sharpening station may not be on.

Thank you as a beginner this video has been so helpful.

Just replaced my strop from Axminster! Very good price, love the end result after sharpening on the Dmt 1200 3000 then strop super sharp super quick. Very good advice Matt keep it up.👍👍all the best Chris C

Thanks again for sharing! I've been using the 400/1000 diamond 'stone' for ages and find it excellent. About 8 years ago, I purchased a water stone when I was in Japan. I'm not in the employ of Steinway, so the 3000 seemed fine enough for my purposes, along with a leather strop and green hard paste. Might give the super fine a wee bash, as I love to see a mirror finish on my edges. As for the angry rants from the 'my way or the highway' brigade: well, I'm just glad that there are generous souls like your good self, who are willing to share. 👍

Hey Matt! So I've been a carpenter for 9 years, since I was 18. I build high end stairs for a trim company, and while of course there are always obstacles to conquer, alot of the challenge is gone at this point. I'm one of those guys who always want to grow as a woodworker, it's what I love about my profession, there are so many ways to learn and grow and just different ways to work with wood. I've decided for 2020 I want to start learning more about making furniture, joinery, and I want to do it primarily with hand tools to add another level of challenge. I want to say thank you much for you videos on various hand tools that are more vital early on. I always buy high end tools, I don't see the point in buying mediocre tools just to replace them later, and seeing as this is my career it only makes sense. But having you show me a good place to start has made it more realistic financially for me and I really appreciate it. In already loving my veritas planes and hand saws, and the DMT diamond plate works like a dream. I'm wanting to get a strop to take my sharpening/polishing to the next level. I have a 350/1200 dual sided plate, which has been working great. My question(s) then are : is there a specific type/brand of strop you would most recommend? One that I've found has a two sides, with one being more a seude side, which I'm guessing I would use for a higher "grit" as it's softer. Maybe provide a link to a product you recommend? Also, as far as cleaning/initially setting up my strop, I've seen some guys use oil and then sand paper (really don't like the idea of possibly ending up with oil being transferred to my work piece and ruining it tho) and I've seen other guys just scrape it with a razor to remove old compound. What would you recommend as far as maintaining the strop? (Method, how often, etc) last question, I see your compound is in a jar more like a paste, whereas all I can find with a quick search online and at the local box store are like hard sticks of compound. Exactly what kind of compound should I be getting, and if I were to get a double sided or two strops, what "grits" would I want if I'm taking it up to 1200 on the diamond plate, to be the most effective, and could you provide a link to that product? Know that was a bit long winded, but maybe this could be a whole new video? Thanks for all the videos man and keep at it! Wish you nothing but the best brother.

I have a 400/1000 grit diamond plate and then finish with a strop. Produces mirror finish bevels and leaves an edge good enough to shave with, what more could you want?

What brands are your water stones? Thanks. Great video and sweet shop table! One other thing. What grit do you use for wetdry sandpaper for lapping? And in the same question what grit diamonds? The dmt lapping plate is triple the price of their sharpening plates.

Thank you for the informative video. What do you think of Shapton ceramic water stones on which you just spray water, instead of soaking them? Thanks.

I've been in the trade for so long that I started with oil stones, but now I use a combination of moderately price diamond stones, water stones and a strop. I am very impressed with the results.

i'm pretty new to the woodcrafting and i tend to think that i need every tool i can find before starting. And then you tell us in your videos what we can get to start, surprisingly we don`t need that much!

@1pcfred

5 жыл бұрын

Tools? You need wood in order to woodwork. Tools are totally optional. The wood is mandatory though. Without wood you're just not woodworking. But if you feel you must have some tools a few chisels, a saw, a combination square and a knife will get you a long ways. Then to be a master craftsman get a hand plane.

Great video, Matt. What grit are you using to flat the waterstone? Thanks.

What grit wet/dry do you use to flatten your water stones?

Haha, I’ve always sharpened freehand (never on the push). Great video!

i like your style.keep up the good work

Excellent video overview on sharpening. I couldn't agree with you more on your opinions. I use waterstones followed by a strop for plane blades and chisels. I have found ceramic stones very convenient for carving knives. They are used dry but need to be flattened on occasion. Therefore a diamond lapping plate is essential to keep all stones flat. Keep up the good work!

@thatguythatdoesstuff7448

4 жыл бұрын

What brand of ceramic stones are you using? I haven't heard of ceramic stones being used dry. Thanks.

Excellent video Matt! I first purchased the same water stone 1000/6000 and stayed with it.

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

Nice! I've just spent the weekend at the European Woodworking show and have been eyeing up the 3000/8000 combo. If I get it, I'll wear it in over the course of a few months and see how I get on. Cheers mate!

@AndreaArzensek

6 жыл бұрын

They invited me to the EW show but it was a bit far for me. Do you know why it was the last one? Cheers!

Great stuff! I do wish you would have given oil stones a look and talked about their benefits rather than just disregarding them, though; I gave every other sharpening system a try first (because everyone wrote off oil stones) but eventually, I finally tried them and found that they suited me the best (stay flat, less messy compared to waterstones, don't require presoaking, no need to worry about rust which I battle with waterstones, and leave a surface which responds really well to a strop). I go with a fine or medium India or a vintage washita, and follow up with a hard arkansas and a strop. I can get a new edge very quickly with this setup, and I don't even use a honing guide... But, that's just me!

@volsmann

5 жыл бұрын

Luke Dupont vintage washita is the best for tools, really fast... if you use it regularly, not letting youre tools go too dull,, you Can get by with just one stone

@1pcfred

5 жыл бұрын

@@volsmann if you never get a new tool to you that needs some bevel setup. What a nightmare scenario!

I sharpen with 8 different grits of paper, right up to scary sharp. I just spray on car window cleaner. Finish with honing compound and mdf block.

@richardsinger01

4 жыл бұрын

Sir Walter Raleigh 8 grades of paper? Is it really necessary to use all those grits - don’t you end up spending an inordinate amount of time sharpening?

My system is a 8" slow speed grinder with the Veritas grinding jig, chased by DMT 1200 mesh, DMT 8000 mesh (cuts like a 4000) and a 8000 grit Japanese waterstone (that cuts like a 10,000, wears really slow and only needs a splash of water). I came to that after a ridiculous amount of different setups from Scary Sharp/Tormek/Worksharp/waterstones/etc. Nice and clean, only 1-2 steps for a touchup and the hollow grind is super easy to freehand for quick touchups if I don't want to grab the LN jig. All the ridiculous waterstones I bought back in the day stay in the kitchen for sharpening knives :)

Great vid, what's the angle jig thing you used on the scary sharp bit called please? Thanks.

This is a good start. I need to know how to use them.

A good review and almost covered all the stones except Ceramic. Would be interesting to see how they fair.

Very very good, thanks.

What grit sandpaper are you using on the float glass to flatten the water stone?

Hi Matt, I've just discovered your channel and I'm finding your videos really useful. I've just got the Axminster diamond stones, which I think are going to suit my needs for the time being. What lubricating fluid should I be using with it ?

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

Hi Steve! Thank you so much, glad to hear they’re paying off. You can get something called Lapping Fluid from various companies. Trend is the only brand I can remember off the top of my head. But in all honesty, don’t bother. A bit of water is all you need!

@lukewhite9237

5 жыл бұрын

Windex works well

Great Stuff.

I had the problem with my LV guide not holding my blade well. I put a piece of the 3M stick on, wet or dry abrasive, and now its rock steady.

Oil stones aren´t messy. You don´t have to use a lot oil. If the shavings clog the stone, you used the wrong oil or not enough. Or you didn´t clean the stone. For cleaning the stone, I just rub it with a hand full wood shavings. I use oil stones because the stay flat for a long time. I don´t have to flatten them after each use. The oil doesn´t dry, they´re always ready to go. By using the oil stones, I can get back to work quicker. When I have to sharpen a tool, I don´t want to waste time. I just have to tun around to my second work bench where the oil stones are mounted on a piece of wood and sharpen my tool. With water stones, I would have to soak them in water first and flatten them after a few chisels when I want to sharpen the blade of a plane. I always hated that. It interrupts my work and it is a big mess. Water stones remove steel quicker, but not much quicker. In the end, using them takes more time. I use my water stones only in the kitchen. For sharpening knifes they don´t have to be flat. Diamond plates would be an alternative for oil stones, but the good ones are expensive and I don´t know if they last as long as an oil stone. I also don´t use a honing guide. I did that in the past, but I don´t want to waste time. I´m pragmatic about the angle of the cutting edge. Something between 25° and 35° will do the job as long as it is sharp.

@MattEstlea

5 жыл бұрын

👏

Thanks for a great video, have a question for you or anybody that may know: so I understood that you cannot use a diamond flattening plate for sharpening, can you use a sharpening diamond plate for flattening? I already have a 1000/6000 whetstone and thinking of getting a diamond shapening stone and use it both for sharpening at lower grit and flattening the whetstone. Would this work? Thanks

Like most people, I thought freehand sharpening would be difficult but, after watching a demonstration, I found that it' really not. It's like any other skill, for example learning to saw to a line. It took a bit of practice but not nearly as much as I expected. No one likes sharpening but once you have the skill and a process, like sawing to a line, it becomes a non-event. It's no longer something to dread but something you do in two minutes and you're back to woodworking. If you don't feel confident about it, then use a guide. It's not like the cool kids are going to snub you.

@mikescncshop

6 жыл бұрын

Does it save time? Well, yes and no. If you use alloy irons and chisels like A2 or PMV11, you don't have to stop and sharpen very often. In this case, freehand isn't much of a time saver. If you use vintage irons and chisels or simply less expensive carbon steel tools, most people should be stopping to sharpen more often than they are and this is where it begins to save some time. When I'm chopping dovetails in hardwood, I will touch up my chisel after each corner of a drawer box. Sometimes I just hit it on the strop but often I use my finest stone then the strop. I'm back to work in maybe one minute.

@Hellcommander245

6 жыл бұрын

boekelnj the convex bevel formed by freehand sharpening is a bit more durable.

@bonnivilleblackcherry9745

6 жыл бұрын

convex bevel from freehand? You have a hand driven stone wheel? The town I live in has a old treadle stone wheel set on on display as "art" and the wheel stone has a radius of about 20-23 inches on a guessimate lol. So many times I pass by it and think dammit I gonna steal that sucker lol.

@lukedupont6238

6 жыл бұрын

I have to agree. I find freehand to be easy and much more flexible than using a jig. I can't tell you how many tools I bought don't even fit into a jig in the first place... And you don't need to mess around with angle guides and such. You can also do things like slightly rounding plane irons when working freehand, which makes all the difference when truing the edge of a board. Not sure how you would even accomplish that with a guide...

@davidrustylouis6818

5 жыл бұрын

@boekelnj - a large enough wheel (like the one mentioned above at 20-23") would leave almost no concavity on a chisel. maybe such a small one that it could only be measured in very few micrometers

Hey Matt! I don’t understand well what’s the paste for and whats the surface you are using it. Is it leather? Thank you! Regards from Chile

"I haven't got a watersource here" - man who sprayed water from a bottle 30 seconds prior

Hola Matt saludos cordiales desde Cali Colombia... te quería preguntar qué número o grano de piedras para afilar me recomiendas ? Y, las piedras para afilar que vende Lie Nielsen son buenas ? Muchísimas gracias por tu ayuda y respuesta. Un abrazo.

What strop do you use and how good is it.

Great advice, thank you very much! I was given the hint by a professional woodworker to buy *two* (combination) waterstones to flatten each other. What do you think of this idea?

@BeachBoi1000

4 жыл бұрын

Wolfgang The tougher stone will win.... =p

Love your videos. I don't have experience with oil stones and very little with abrasive films like Scary Sharp but have used DMT diamond plates and water stones for several years. I've had the most success using a combination a course/fine diamond plates for establishing primary and secondary bevels and Waterstones for higher grit sharpening (1,000-16,000 depending on steel type and intended use). I don't seem to get as good results from extra fine and extra extra fine diamond plates. This could be, as you suggested, due to the diamonds clogging quickly or because diamonds glued to steel is very unforgiving and could cause micro-chipping in harder/brittle metals (ie A2, blue paper) or on low angle bevels compared to the swarf on Waterstones. I'm not sure if there's any evidence of that being true but it makes complete sense in my head (as most things do lol). Either way finishing with a strop is essential and often overlooked imho. Thanks again for your videos and I love the channel!

Matt, Thank you for all your helpful tips! For my chisel and plane sharpening, I have recently settled on some Norton water stones - and maintaining flatness of the water stone with float glass and sand paper. Could you speak to what grit sand paper you would suggest to maintain artificial stone flatness?

@CETChris

5 жыл бұрын

I was really needing to know this as well. Also, my waterstone is different grits on each side, and the other day they came apart. Any idea of what kind of adhesive is used to hold them together?

@thatguythatdoesstuff7448

4 жыл бұрын

220. Most of the diamond stones used to flatten waterstones are in the range of 220.

Matt, what lubricant would you advise to use on a diamond stone?

@wades623

2 жыл бұрын

Just use water

Hi Matt, I‘ve been watching your sharpening videos. With regards to the diamond stones you mentioned that they get clogged. How do you clean them? Don’t think you covered that in your videos. My sharpening to date has been in my Robert Sorby Pro Edge. But I’ve never EVER done a secondary bevel so think it’s about time I do it to stop wasting the metal! I will go for a DMT 400/1000 as per your suggestion but just had that one question. Thank you A

Very comprehensive. Stropping is where the magic happens ; )!

What do you lubricate your diamond stones with?

thank you Matt

An effective and cost efficient way of flattening waterstones is using the gridded back of a ceramic tile. You can buy them individually and quite cheaply from discount tile stores pretty much everywhere.

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

Oo havent heard of that one before. If they're flat, great!

@davidrustylouis6818

5 жыл бұрын

Just bring a straightedge w/ you to the discount store & pick the absolute flattest tile using the straightedge.

Informative and entertaining video, Matt! I was trying to convince myself to sharpen freehand, but I ALWAYS get a sharper edge with a jig. I have yet to see anyone who can sharpen an edge sharper freehand than they can with a reliable jig. Not saying it's not possible, but I just haven't seen it!

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

Yes! Glad to hear I'm not the only one who thinks that! It takes a lot of time to be able to sharpen freehand effectively. Why go through all that stress for the sake of taking 5 seconds to set up a honing guide. Madness! Anyway, thank you very much!

@nonparticipant4671

5 жыл бұрын

Yeah, I have the same result with jigs. I also don't think you can be as accurate freehand as with a jig, but these guys do it every day as part of their work routine. It would be cool if there was a jig that was set up and ready to go without spending time adjusting the blade. That is the million dollar idea!

@sammyblackchow9541

5 жыл бұрын

Look into sharpening metal cutting tools like milling cutters, multi flute end mills nobody sharpens free hand on these things

Doesn't the backstroke produce a burr that curls up on the top surface of the tool being sharpened?

if you use glass cleaner instead of water or oil it works amazing because it has a very slight abrasive in it maybe 40000 grit it also polishes so well never go back once you have tried it

@donchristie420

6 жыл бұрын

Simple green

@lukedupont6238

6 жыл бұрын

I get an allergic reaction when I use glass cleaner now -- possibly as a result of this, or possibly something I developed earlier. If it doesn't bother you, though, it does work well!

@timvatter2559

5 жыл бұрын

What type of glass cleaner? Like Windex.

@nonparticipant4671

5 жыл бұрын

Agree, glass cleaner works great. Read the label before buying though and make sure there is no ammonia. The dollar stores carry the right one, and cheap too.

@erickirby8220

4 жыл бұрын

Ive heard use glass cleaner on your diamond stone and water on your water stone. Is that what you meant or do i just dump glass cleaner on anything and everything

its amazing the discussion on diamond vs whet, then you have the sandpaper folts, and those fancy sharpening gizmos between knives, planes, and chisels you can get some heated discussions. and oddly enough i went to the dollar tree last week picked up a 1 dollar stone, and fixed up a old butcher knife i used on one of those horrible fixed angle carbide pull sharpeners (DONT USE THOSE ON A KNIFE YOU LIKE!) I re ground below the knicks and then flipped the stone and honed to whatever the abrasive was, maybe 5-800 didn't expect much, but a few strops on 1k sandpaper (not enough to polish) and that sucker shaved. Im not a chef or a sharpening snob if it cuts hair its sharp in my book, i've never gotten anything hair popping sharp like a really nice strait razor. But all in all a 1 dollar stone put a hair cutting edge on a cheap kitchen knife. I think if you get the technique right you will get a edge on what your workin with. Your budget decides how knife of equipment you are using.

they make float glass by pouring glass on molten zinc. Liquid glass "floats" on top. Surface tension is equal everywhere so you maintain thickness...Great content by the way!

How do you flatten oil stones?

Thanks. Great information again. Just went out today and got the dmt diamond stone. I might add that the diamond stones aren’t actually real diamonds 💍 but man made?

@lukewhite9237

5 жыл бұрын

They're real diamonds, the carbon structure is the same, they're just not natural

Would love to hear your opinions on ceramic stones

I have inherited three sharpening stones from a father-in-law after he died suddenly. One is a combo -- red and grey. One is mounted in wood and appears a bit oily. How do I determine whether they are water or oil stones and what grit they are?

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

There's a good chance they are oilstones. Every time I've seen an old sharpening stone unearthed it's been an oilstone. Never come across a waterstone before. Not entirely sure how I would go about finding the grit. Get the stone flat, sharpen a chisel, strop it and see what sort of result you get. If you find it's not enough, get something above the 1000 grit mark such as a diamond stone.

in my opinion at low budget 200 - 300 WaterStone then 1000 WaterStone then 6000 WaterStone then strops thank you for your video it really helped me

I've been sharpening free hand for years and have never used a honing guide. I can get very sharp edges and consistent bevel angles, its all about muscle memory. I use waterstones and the whole issue with the pushstroke can easily be avoided, just gotta be careful and conscious of how your edge is laying on the stone. I don't find flatness to be that big a deal. Occasionally I will flatten mine, but certainly not after every use. I find that the stones stay reasonably flat for a long time before they're too dished out.

"float glass" is made by floating molten glass on molten metal usually tin. I believe it was invented by the Pilkington brothers in England. Before float was invented the glass was polished both sides to get it flat. This process was very costly and labour intensive and probably the main reason why Pilkington ( now called veridian ) is the biggest glass company in the world.

I just use my oilstones like a water stone because it works much better like that and you dont have to have oil around. It creates mud just like a waterstone and works pretty good in my opinion

Good job the Earth Is flat or Float Glass would be like a balloon 15 cm across. I mean, how big do you think we are? The moon is very close. I bumped my head on it from the pub the other day and woke up in a ditch with no memory, I believe I was protected by the 9 pints of Olde FingerSparkel. .. Abduction! PS - Thank you once again Matt. I hope you realise how much you help some of us.

I'm using a 400&1200 (two sided) diamond stone, works great but I would like to expend less time on the 400 side, I was thinking in adding a 250 grit water stone in order to speed things up, do you think it would be a good idea?

@weldabar

6 жыл бұрын

Other comments here state that water stones do not do well at lower grits, and that the diamond plates do.

@richardsinger01

4 жыл бұрын

AndroidGameplays4Every1 I gave a large 250 grip water stone and it cuts quite quickly. But you have to level it very frequently, because it hollows very quickly too.

Point of interest, float glass is named because it is made by floating it on a very long bed of molten zinc. Only the one side in contact with the zinc is truly flat. All the best.

I noticed so many folks hate sharpening. For some unknown reason I find it one of the most relaxing things I do in my shop, I know I have issues! But at the same time I'm just a part time woodworking making time not much of an issue. There's a product called magic eraser most stores have it it's a cleaner and works great on cleaning your diamond stones.

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

I like it at the start of the day when I'm preparing my tools for a days work. But when I'm halfway through cutting a dovetail and I need to sharpen a chisel, that's when it can kindly sod off. It breaks the workflow. I'll look into that stuff though, cheers!

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

I like it at the start of the day when I'm preparing my tools for a days work. But when I'm halfway through cutting a dovetail and I need to sharpen a chisel, that's when it can kindly sod off. It breaks the workflow. I'll look into that stuff though, cheers!

float glass was invented by Pilkingtons after WW2. It uses a liquid tin base for the glass to be poured onto.

I‘m using that same Imanishi BESTER 1000/6000 stone quite some time now. Great stone! But I managed to ruin a 1000 grid DMT with only 3 blades. No diamonds left! Did you ever experience diamond stones getting worn that quick?

I must say I really like that bench.

Float glass is ordinary glass, that has been left to solidify atop a slab of molten metal. The molten metal was liquefied and then slightly cooled, and left absolutely still, resulting in a perfectly flat molten slab. The molten glass is poured atop that perfectly flat molten slab and left to solidify, resulting in an equally flat peice of "float glass".

@randalrobinson3424

4 жыл бұрын

I believe most float glass is made in a continuous process where the glass floats the length of a molten tin (?) bath until it is cool enough to be transfered to rollers. Also, flatness is a relative term. For the purpose of sharpening, float glass can probably be considered "perfectly" flat. But, for other applications like high quality optics, it not very flat.

Do you have plans for that Roubo? Thanks in advance

@MattEstlea

6 жыл бұрын

They are in the works, I need to amend a few things before releasing them however. Give me a follow on social media and I'll put an announcement out when they are available. Cheers!

I just found you. Moses-Katz reference you. I enjoy you alot. Good info.

I’ve done the scary sharp method (don’t care for it), waterstones, and diamond stones. I love the waterstones for grits 1000and above. I have four waterstones 1000, 3000, 10000, and 13000. I have two diamond stones for the donkey work of removing material. The diamond stones are nice but they don’t go too high in the grits and I love polishing to a mirror edge as it makes cutting or planing easier. Oh and I sharpen freehand. Practice makes better. :)

@psiclops521

3 жыл бұрын

Matches my experience exactly. I have one diamond stone at 400 grit. If I have to remove a lot of material like flattening the sole of a plane, the diamond stone is great, but the 3k grit waterstone is my highest grit stone and then I polish on the bench grinder with a polishing wheel and green buffing compound (60 k grit), I am entirely happen with the results, which are razor sharp.

What lubricant do you use for the 400 and 1000 grit combo diamond stone??

@fricstix7072

4 жыл бұрын

Water or oil

Pros and cons of different systems well explained. Thanks Matt.

Can you get rid of the oil in a sharpening stone by baking it in a 500 F oven?

"Float glass" is called that because it cools and solidifies while it is floating over molten metal.

@Voxters

5 жыл бұрын

Correct, It cools on molten Lead.

Hi , new to your channel, have you done a how to sharpen gouging chisels ? Thanks .

Anyone have recommended grits for scary sharp? Judging by the colors, It looks like Matt has YELLOW 12 Micron (1200 Grit) and PINK 3 Micron (8,000 Grit). I assume this is enough for sharpening a maintained chisel/plane (YELLOW/1200) and final honing/polishing (PINK/8000). Seems like it would be akin to the 1000/6000 KING Waterstone I have, at the recommendation of StumpyNubs. No need for higher/lower grits (again, if you're dealing with well maintained irons)? No stropping? (again, I assume there is a grit of this 3M PSA sandpaper that can approximate a strop, too). I'd like to go with "Scary Sharp" method until I am ready to pony up for Diamond Plates. Thanks!

I used a polished scrap piece of black granite with some wet n dry paper (started with semi-warn 150 grit and went up to 400) for my dad's block plane iron. It wasn't "scary" sharp but it effortlessly removed the wood. I did it by hand by the way...*GASP! Haha

Nice !!!!